Diseases of garden strawberries and their control. Description of strawberry diseases with photographs and methods of treatment (folk remedies). Black rot of fruits

The most effective remedy for all strawberry diseases is proper care.

Modern strawberry varieties are quite disease resistant. With proper agricultural technology, diseases do not cause severe damage to the plantation. Nevertheless, many gardeners complain about outbreaks of garden strawberry diseases on their plots. On this page you will find a description of the most common strawberry diseases and effective ways to treat them.

Strawberry diseases and their treatment

Gray rot

The causative agent is a pathogenic fungus. It is preserved in petioles and dead leaves, damaged berries and not removed from the plantation. A very common strawberry disease.

Description of the disease. On leaves, peduncles, flowers and ovaries it appears as large brown drying spots that do not have a border. In hot weather, the spots crack. In rainy weather and high humidity, a smoky-gray coating appears on the affected tissues.

Affected berries become soft and a wet brown spot appears on their surface. The mycelium itself develops in the pulp, and spores appear on the surface in the form of a gray coating. Affected berries are unfit for food and must be destroyed. The disease manifests itself in damp, rainy summers. Overgrowing the plot with weeds, growing strawberries in the shade under dense crowns, and dense plantings contribute to the rapid progression of the disease.

Ripe strawberries are more affected by rot. Green ones are more resistant and are affected if there are diseased red berries nearby.

Methods of treatment. In damp weather during the budding period, strawberries are sprayed with a broad-spectrum fungicide Euparen. This drug is most effective in the fight against gray rot and white spotting, and also suppresses the causative agent of powdery mildew. Euparen should not be mixed with Bordeaux mixture and adhesives should not be added to the working solution. 2 g of the drug is diluted in 1 liter of water, consumption per hundred square meters is 6 liters. After harvesting, a second spraying is carried out.

To combat infection, strawberry bushes can be sprayed with bacterial preparations Planriz or Alirin B.

During the period of ovary growth in damp weather, diseased strawberry bushes are pollinated with fluff.

Traditional methods of treatment.

1. Garlic infusion. The husk is poured with 5 liters of hot water and left for 2 days. The resulting infusion is diluted with water in equal proportions and the bushes are watered.
2. Prepare a solution from ash (1 cup), chalk (1 cup), copper sulfate (1 tsp). The mixture is poured into 10 liters of water and sprayed onto the strawberries.

Disease prevention.

1. Thinning thickened plantings.
2. Removal of plant residues.
3. Removal and destruction of rotten berries.
4. Strawberries should not be irrigated by sprinkling during flowering and ovary growth.
5. To prevent damage, freshly reddened and not quite ripe berries are removed.
6. After each rain the earth is loosened.

It is advisable that ripe berries do not come into contact with wet soil; for this, special support rings (sold in garden stores) or plastic bottles are placed under the bushes. You can mulch the ground with any material except peat.

White spot or ramularia

Fungal disease. The infection persists in affected overwintering leaves and plant debris. Strawberries grown on heavy soils with excess organic matter are more susceptible to ramularia.

Description of the disease. Affects leaves, peduncles, stalks, sepals. Numerous small red-brown spots of round or angular shape appear on strawberry leaves. As the mycelium develops, the spots turn white, but a brown border always remains around them. In hot weather, the affected tissue cracks and falls out; in humid weather, a white coating of sporulation appears. The spores spread to neighboring leaves and plants.

On the peduncles, stalks, and sepals the spots are dark brown, turning white over time. They are elongated and slightly pressed. With severe damage, the flower stalks become brown, thin, fall and dry out.

The first signs of the disease on strawberries appear in early to mid-May; in summer, rainy weather contributes to the spread of infection. A large amount of moisture in the soil after snow melts also contributes to the development of the disease.

Methods for treating strawberries.

1. 3-4 times treatment with Bayleton: during the period of leaf growth, when flower stalks extend, after harvesting and 10-12 days after the previous treatment.
2. Double treatment with Euparen. You can do 4 treatments, alternating Euparen and Bayleton.
3. Spraying with Nitrafen. The drug has a broad spectrum of action, can accumulate in the soil and cause burns to plants, so it is used once in early spring or late autumn.
4. Double treatment of strawberries with Bordeaux mixture: before flowering and in the second half of July. The leaves are processed from the underside.

Traditional methods of treatment. Spraying strawberries with a 5% iodine solution (10 ml per 10 liters of water). Treatment is carried out on the leaves before flowering.

Disease prevention:

• removing dry leaves in early spring;
• thinning a thickened plot;
• weed removal;
• burning of all damaged plant residues.

White spot (and all strawberry diseases in general) develops greatly when the bushes are overfed with nitrogen. When a lesion is detected, nitrogen fertilizing (both organic and mineral) is stopped and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied. The best of them is ash.

Brown spot

The infection is caused by pathogenic fungi. Preserves in affected plant debris and affected overwintering strawberry leaves.

Description of the disease. The disease affects the above-ground parts of plants. Numerous round or angular spots appear on strawberry leaves, the color of which ranges from red-brown to almost black; the middle of the spot is somewhat lighter, but without a border. They can merge. Soon black shiny pads with spores appear on the spots. If the infection is severe, the leaves turn purple and die.

On leaf petioles and tendrils, the disease manifests itself as depressed small brown spots.

This strawberry disease appears in the second half of summer and, if widespread, can cause browning and premature drying of leaves, which negatively affects the winter hardiness of strawberries. Humid and hot weather promotes the development of infection. But at temperatures above 32°C, even with high humidity, the development of the disease slows down.

Prevention and treatment of the disease

1. Preventive spraying with Bordeaux mixture. If the disease spreads strongly, treatment is carried out in spring and autumn.
2. If more than half of the plantation is affected, treat with Nitrofen.

Powdery mildew

The causative agent of the infection is a pathogenic fungus. Its spores are stored in the affected plant tissues and on plant debris. The source of the disease consists of mycelium and numerous white spores, which, spreading, infect surrounding strawberry bushes and other plants susceptible to powdery mildew.

Signs of defeat. A white coating appears on young strawberry leaves on both sides and on the petioles. The edges of the leaf blades wrinkle and bend upward like a boat, the lower surface acquires a bronze-pink hue. Peduncles, flowers and ovaries turn brown and become deformed. Green berries dry out. The red berries become slimy and appear sprinkled with flour, and a characteristic musty smell appears. The disease manifests itself in damp summers and when the watering regime is violated.

How to treat strawberries.

1. Treatment with fungicides based on colloidal sulfur or copper sulfate. Preparations containing sulfur are more effective. Bordeaux mixture containing copper sulfate is ineffective against powdery mildew.
2. Treatment of strawberry plantation with colloidal sulfur. The drug can be used 3 days before picking berries (Tiovit Jet).
3. The drug Topaz is the most effective in the fight against powdery mildew. The duration of the therapeutic effect is 3 days, the prophylactic effect is 7-10 days.
4. Fitosporin is very effective at the early stage of the disease, but in advanced forms it does not have the necessary effect.
5. Copper sulfate can be used once per season, since the drug is toxic. Sprayed to prevent and treat the initial stage of infection in early spring.
6. Can be treated with other fungicides: Skif, Skor, Tilt, Quadris, Zato.
7. Spray the bushes very strongly, the solution should drain from the leaves.
8. You can water strawberries only when the top layer dries.
9. Stop fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers.

Traditional methods of treatment are more suitable for preventing disease than for treating it.

1. Iodine. 10 ml are diluted in 10 liters of water and sprayed on the strawberry bushes from the bottom and top sides. Effective in the early stages of the disease.
2. Soda. 5 g of soda ash is diluted in 1 liter of hot water, adding soap shavings to the solution for better adhesion of the drug. After the solution has cooled, spray and water the soil. Spraying is repeated 3 times with an interval of 7 days.
3. Potassium permanganate. 1 g/4 l of water. Carry out 2-3 treatments with an interval of 7-10 days. Spraying must be done after rain.
4. Serum. 1 l/10 l of water, spraying strawberries every 3-5 days. The serum coats the plants with a film and prevents the growth of the fungus, making it difficult for it to breathe. In addition, fermented milk microflora is an antagonist of pathogenic fungi. It produces substances (antibiotics) that kill fungi and their spores.

As the disease develops, people switch from folk remedies to chemicals.

Brown (angular) spotting

The pathogenic fungus mainly affects old leaves. Pycnidia, the overwintering fruiting bodies of fungi, form on the affected tissue. Overwinters in affected tissues and on infected plant debris.

How does the disease manifest? The disease appears in mid-summer and reaches its peak in mid-August to early September. Red-brown spots with a light center and a dark border appear on the leaf blades. Rapidly increasing along the veins or from the edge of the leaf to the center, they acquire an irregular angular shape. Gradually the spots become gray-brown, but the border remains. In hot weather, the affected tissue cracks and falls out.

When leaf petioles and vines are damaged, oval brown spots and dry constrictions appear on them. When the stalks are damaged, the ovaries become brown and dry out. Wet weather contributes to the spread of the disease.

How to treat strawberries.

1. When the disease appears after picking the berries, mow down all the foliage and spray it with Nitrafen before it grows back.
2. Before flowering and after fruiting, diseased strawberries are sprayed with Bordeaux mixture.
3. Treating the plantation with Ordan.

Traditional methods of treatment.

1. Ash. 1/2 bucket of wood ash is poured into 10 liters of water and left for 3 days. Bring the volume of the solution to 30 liters, add an adhesive (soap, milk, kefir) and spray the strawberries. Diseased strawberries are treated twice with a 10-day break.
2. Kefir. 1 liter of fermented kefir (yogurt, old fermented baked milk, etc.) is diluted in 10 liters of water and sprayed on strawberry bushes. Carry out 2 treatments with an interval of 12-14 days.

Late blight

A fungal disease, the pathogen persists in the soil for 8-10 years.

Description of the disease. All parts of the plant are affected. The roots become bare and die, and the central cylinder of the root turns red and the rhizome is destroyed. Ring-shaped brown spots appear at the base of the leaf petioles. Peduncles or already formed berries often dry out. Dry spots appear on the berries, which increase in size and affect the entire surface; the berries acquire a brown color with a purple tint, become hard and leathery, dry out and decrease in size. Sometimes a white mold-like coating appears.

How to treat. It is very difficult to fight the disease, since the mycelium is located inside the plant tissue. Preventative methods are the most effective. For prevention, strawberries are sprayed 3-4 times with Quadris, Bravo, Antracol, and Bordeaux mixture. The fungus very quickly develops resistance to fungicides, so each time spraying is carried out with different preparations.

Traditional methods of treatment.

1. Spraying a strawberry plantation with an alcohol solution of iodine (10 ml/10 l of water).
2. Treatment with garlic solution. 1 cup of finely chopped leaves is poured into 10 liters of water, left for 24 hours, 1.5 g of potassium permanganate is added to the solution and sprayed. Repeated treatment is carried out after 10 days. Phytoncides contained in garlic kill late blight spores.
3. Spraying strawberries with infusion of ash. Treatment is carried out 3 times with an interval of 10 days.
4. Spraying with fermented milk solution. During the summer, 3 treatments are carried out.
5. Copper wire. Copper has an antifungal effect. For protection, several old leaves are pierced with wire, the ends of which are stuck into the soil.

It is easier to prevent all these strawberry diseases than to try to cure diseased plants later. Therefore, pay great attention to proper agricultural technology.

Other useful articles on growing strawberries:

1. The article describes in detail how to care for a strawberry plantation from early spring to late autumn.
2. What pests can threaten your plantation and how to effectively combat them.
3. How to propagate strawberry bushes yourself and what mistakes gardeners most often make.
4. Is it worth it for ordinary summer residents to do this?
5. A selection of the newest, most productive and promising varieties.
6. Growing technology and all the pros and cons of this matter.
7. Are you going to tackle strawberries? Then this is the very first article you need to read.

Strawberries (or large-fruited strawberries) are one of the most popular garden crops. Appearing in Holland in the 18th century as a hybrid of two types of strawberries (Chilean and Virginian), the plant has since come under the close attention of breeders more than once.

As a result, today there are more than 2,000 varieties of these false berries. Such diversity cannot but please gardeners and jam lovers. But here’s the problem: over the long history of its existence, it has managed to acquire a rich “assortment” of ailments.

Before purchasing seedlings, it is important for a novice gardener to thoroughly study the main strawberry diseases and treatment methods. After all, some “strawberry diseases” enter the garden at the time of purchase through infected specimens from an unscrupulous seller.

What is wrong with the “scarlet drop of summer”?

All strawberry diseases can be divided into 4 categories depending on what (who) causes the disease:

• bacterial;
• viral;
• animals;
• fungal.

Killer bacteria or how to save the harvest?

The most common bacterial infections include burns and cancer.

Bacterial burn of fruit crops is the scourge of all representatives of the Rosaceae family.

In the spring, during the period of active growth and flowering of crops, bacteria begin to “attack” the inflorescences, trying to penetrate “deep” into the plant in order to infect and destroy it. Externally, signs of the disease can be identified by the presence of curled, dried leaves and flowers, which, however, do not fall off and continue to “dangle” on the plant.

It is worth noting that strawberries, unlike their relatives, are less susceptible to this disease and, with proper care, successfully resist it.

Preventive measures include:

• suppression of contact with other representatives of the Rosaceae family, especially with pear, apple, and quince;
• spraying bushes with antibiotics, a mixture of copper sulfate and milk of lime;
• complete destruction of infected plants.

Root cancer - the mechanism of action of the disease is somewhat reminiscent of human carcinomas. A root cell infected with the Rhizobium bacterium begins to transform, involving neighboring elements in this process. As a result, a tumor of the root system occurs and rapid death occurs.

The disease can be treated with the help of “chemotherapy” aimed at destroying the lesion, but it is easier and more effective to completely get rid of the infected plant, thereby protecting the remaining seedlings from danger.

Viral diseases

The strawberry bush is susceptible to viral attacks, which lead to a number of diseases.

As practice shows, viral diseases of strawberries and the fight against them is a labor-intensive process and not always successful for the gardener. Therefore, the best option would be to completely destroy diseased plants and replant healthy seedlings.

Animals damage seedlings

They are also not averse to eating fragrant berries. True, this can easily spoil the stems and roots. So it’s clear: fight against harmful creatures!

Strawberry mite. A pest that eats young strawberry leaves. You can get rid of it by spraying the plants with dandelion infusion (take 1 kg of crushed fresh leaves for 10 liters of hot water and leave for 4 hours), Karbofos (3 tablespoons of the drug per 10 liters of water) or initially plant the plants at a distance of 40-50 cm. from friend.

Spider mite. You can determine the presence of a “tenant” in the garden by seeing shoots entangled in cobwebs. It usually appears in the spring. Spraying with infusions of tobacco, wormwood, and Fitoverm helps well in the fight against pests.

Weevil. It feeds on buds and young foliage. As part of preventive measures, digging up row spacing, destroying infected bushes, and spraying with tobacco and hellebore are helpful. Among the “chemical rescuers” you can choose Iskra-M (use in accordance with the instructions).

Ants, woodlice, slugs. They love moisture, twilight and dense foliage; initially, you should not turn the berry plantation into a “living carpet”: the bushes should be located at a sufficient distance from each other. The row spaces can be sprinkled with copper sulfate, pine needles, quicklime, and metaldehyde.

By the way, a fairly effective way to deceive woodlice with the help of wet birch branches - by placing such baits along the rows, you can provoke arthropod creatures to climb on them (moisture and dampness are above all else for these pests), and then simply take the branches with woodlice away from the beds.

Nematodes are small (1 mm long) worms that infect the insides of strawberries. You can escape from them only by destroying the infected plants and covering the growth area with bleach. Therefore, before planting “alien” seedlings, it is important to soak them for 15 minutes in a saline solution (1 tablespoon of kitchen salt per 1 liter of water).

As you can see, the treatment of strawberry diseases of animal origin is quite tolerable.

Fungal diseases

The strawberry diseases and pests described above are more of a rare misunderstanding than a universal problem for gardeners. But fungal infections are a real disaster.

Gray rot is the most common disease of strawberries. Signs of damage are:

• brown spots with a gray fluffy coating on the fruit;
• Over time, the affected berries dry out;
• the leaves become covered with gray and brownish spots.

To protect your beds from gray rot, you need to treat the bushes with 1% Bordeaux mixture or “Barrier” before flowering. At the first signs of disease, remove damaged fruits (otherwise the spores will instantly disperse throughout the area). Do not allow the area to become overgrown with weeds.

Black rot - the disease is almost completely identical to the previous ailment. The only difference is that instead of a gray coating, a black coating forms. Preventative measures are also similar.

Brown spot. It affects leaf blades, first forming brown edges on them, which over time develop into complete “browning” of the leaf. An infected culture slows down its development, and bags of spores form on its surface. The disease is long-term and sluggish: you may be convinced that the berries have recovered, but in the fall everything will happen all over again. It is important to regularly remove weeds and old diseased leaves. If you still “failed to protect yourself and caught the nasty thing,” after harvesting, treat the plantation with Fitosporin.

When studying strawberry diseases, you cannot miss fusarium wilt. Before it gets sick, the seedling turns brown, withers and dies. If it is possible to detect the fungus in the early stages, the culture can be saved with “Phytodoctor”, “Trichodermin”. Otherwise, the plantation is removed and replanting is possible only after 4 years.

Pests and diseases of strawberries have been attacking gardeners for more than 2 centuries. What methods of combating them have not been invented during this time: folk remedies, chemicals, mechanical influences, spells and amulets. One of these recipes for “improvised” agrochemicals is iodine.

To successfully use the drug, you need to take a 10-liter bucket of water (the container must not be metal) and flavor it with 15 drops of iodine. Stir well and pour over the strawberries, avoiding any liquid getting on the leaves. After such “fertilization”, beetles and other living creatures will not appear on the site for 2-3 years. If you are afraid of “burning” the roots of the crop with iodine (by carelessly adding more of the drug), then you can treat the beds before the initial planting of seedlings (3-4 days before). The effect will be the same as in the previous case.

Having considered the topic, we can say with confidence that growing fragrant berries, although a troublesome and time-consuming task, is worth it.

We figured out Sadovaya, we will get acquainted with the diseases of our favorite.

Strawberries are an indispensable attribute of most gardeners' plots. But culture is fragile, delicate.

Not only is the taste delicate, the plant also needs support: numerous strawberry diseases plague the plantings.

The berry itself will not cope with any immunity.

Therefore, the plant will have to be nurtured and undead all season: from awakening to the end of the growing season. Also prepare carefully for wintering.

A true lover of aromatic berries and other plants is not afraid of difficulties. He is a cook, nanny and doctor for the garden guests.

Proper care will be provided.

Strawberry ailments

Garden strawberries are affected by diseases common to different crops. They appear on it in a specific way.

They must be overcome by knowing the biology of the culture and the characteristics of the diseases.

Strawberries do not tolerate the disease well, and emergency treatment is necessary.

Gray rot

A fungus that grows rapidly, like a fire. Just as quickly, gray rot turns the berries into “ashes” - they become covered with a coating of silver-gray mycelium, rotting from the inside.

The disease is resistant to a wide range of temperatures. The spores can withstand the heat of summer and winter frosts.

They seem to preserve themselves, waiting for favorable conditions.

And favorable for the fungus - here it is unoriginal - heat and moisture, coupled with temperature changes between day and night.

Tomatoes, grapes, other berries and vegetables - gray rot affects everything, it is not picky.

The disease can destroy all or almost the entire crop. There are no varieties resistant to rot. But some are less affected.

• Ruby pendant;
• Mitze Schindler;
• New.

By observing breeding innovations, a gardener can choose an interesting variety that is less affected by gray mold.

Fungal spores are weightless and easily spread by wind. They also pass from the soil to the plant itself or its berries.

A very unpleasant harmful disease. But there is also control over this.

There is a whole complex of control measures, the result will justify the work.

Gardeners fight strawberry disease like this:

• Mulching. Mulch is chosen that is resistant to rotting, for example, pine needles. The technique cuts off the pathogen from the plant. In addition, the needles contain phytoncides. This keeps the mulch, which is unappetizing for fungus, intact longer.
• Timely removal of last year's mulch. During the winter, phytoncides disappear, the cover can rot, and the infection hibernates underneath it. Early in the spring, all this is raked up and burned. Mulch is needed, but fresh.
• Choosing a location. Choose comfort for the plant, while simultaneously creating discomfort - gray rot and other fungi. Place the strawberries in a sunny, ventilated place. The size of the plot should provide for an unthickened planting. Eliminate “stagnant” places from the layout: neither moisture nor air should stagnate in the strawberry plot.
• Watering. Do not think that intensive watering will add juiciness to the berries or make them larger. Water moderately, do not nurture the fungus. Strawberries rot very quickly. Flowering strawberries are watered only at the root, preferably with standing, non-cold water. Sprinkling or cold watering provokes the incidence of gray mold.
• Fertilizer application. You can add them. Even necessary. But you need to navigate which ones are appropriate. Organic matter always means nitrogen, and there is always a risk of fungal infections. But phosphorus and potassium are good fertilizers for strawberries. The “fed” bush strengthens and becomes more resistant to the attacks of any disease. Nitrogen (organic) can be applied in small quantities two years before strawberries in crop rotation. Otherwise, not only will the soil become infected, but also the strawberry bush will “go into the leaf” - it will drive out the powerful leaf mass to the detriment of the berries. Moreover, the shading will increase. Mineral nitrogen is applied to a minimum in the year preceding planting.
• Application of agrofibre. Black fiber is used. The berries do not come into contact with the infection in the soil. They don't rot. The fiber breathes and allows moisture from watering and rain to pass through.
• On diseased plants, the berries are cut off along with the stalk and burned (you can douse them with bleach). Diseased residues should not be placed in compost.
• Sprinkling ash on the soil on the plot gives good results. Disinfects and blocks gray rot mycelium.
• Periodically ventilate the plantings, reducing watering and allowing the soil to dry out.

It is not possible to completely eradicate a fungal infection, but you can keep this scourge in check.

Powdery mildew

The disease is caused by the fungus Oidium. There are few crops that this harmful fungus cannot reach.

Strawberries are suffering greatly. Diseases of garden strawberries are mainly of a fungal nature; the crop is susceptible to fungal attack.

Powdery mildew affects the entire plant. He starts from scratch.

The plaque on the bottom of its plate is not immediately noticeable. Therefore, inspect the bushes, especially in warm, humid years that are favorable for the fungus.

At first it is a white coating, similar to a cobweb. If you look closely, you can see spore spots on it.

Unnoticed in time, powdery mildew spreads rapidly. The spots on the leaves turn brown, and the plaque spreads to the rest of the strawberry bush.

Stems, flowers, berries, peduncles - everything is strewn with a powdery coating, which soon causes rotting. Curled leaves dry out.

Diseases of strawberry leaves are common. Septoria is one of them.

The disease is recognized by the appearance of the spots; they are specific. At first - small, but already with a border. The color of the entire spot is reddish-brown.

As the disease progresses, its characteristic symptoms become more pronounced:

• The spots increase;
• Their color changes: the spots become gray or a whitish coating appears;
• The border around the edge remains, the color remains red-brown;
• The disease affects the petioles, forming elongated spots. Color - like on the leaves;
• Some of the leaves heavily affected by septoria die off. The yield is greatly reduced, and its quality suffers.

White spotting of strawberries is extremely common due to the pathogen's ability to withstand a wide range of temperatures.

Septoria develops at low temperatures above zero and at high temperatures too.

The fungus can easily withstand both 5° and up to 35°. Therefore, it is found everywhere where strawberries are.

Septoria loves the “golden mean” more. It is most harmful when it is warm, but not hot.

Another condition: a humid environment. The warm rainy season will trigger an outbreak of diseases, be on alert.

The fight against white spotting includes agrotechnical techniques, general - agrotechniques common for fungal infections.

Those techniques for eradicating gray rot and powdery mildew.

The “copper component” of the fight against fungus remains relevant. Bordeaux mixture is used widely and successfully.

The deadlines are the same:

• Beginning of the growing season;
• Budding;
• Post-harvest period;
• Before leaving for the winter.

Strawberries respond to treatment with copper preparations gratefully and recover well.

Brown spot

And again the fungus, the scourge of our sweet berries, now in a different guise.

This disease also stalks strawberries in all regions. Wherever, at whatever latitude, strawberries grow, protection from disease is one of the first concerns of the gardener.

She loves her fungus as much as we do. Sometimes he turns out to be quicker, then the harvest is “not ours.”

Signs of the disease:

• The spotting is not quite “brown”. Initially, white spots are characteristic (leaves are affected). These spots are on the upper plate of the leaf; they darken later.
• At this stage, the lower plate is already affected by the fungus and covered with a brown coating.
• Sparse at first, later the spots densely dot the leaf.
• The leaf dries out.

Brown spot does not affect strawberries. But it can reduce the yield by half, disrupting their nutrition.

It is better to start the fight against the disease with safe folk methods at hand.

The main thing is to detect the problem in time.

Potassium permangantsovka. The solution is taken weak. To ensure that there are no undissolved crystals left that can leave burns on the foliage, first dilute potassium permanganate in a small amount of water.

It is advisable to do this in a neutral (glass) container. The drug is taken at the tip of a knife, for example, onto a liter jar. The solution turns out intensely colored.

After thoroughly stirring the crystals (some will not dissolve immediately, they will settle), add the concentrated solution to water - take 10 liters of it.

Bring to a pale pink color. This is a working solution and can be sprayed.

Cover the remaining concentrate with a lid and leave for the next processing.

Potassium permanganate is non-toxic, process as needed. But we usually skip the flowering phase; there is no need to interfere with pollination.

Iodine solution. The antiseptic iodine works not only in medicine, it is also applicable in phytopathology.

Shows good effectiveness in killing fungi.

To slow down the development of brown spot, it is enough to feed strawberries in the spring with a weak (3 drops of iodine, a bucket of water) iodine solution.

This will improve the nutrition and condition of the plants, and protect them from spotting.

Additional autumn treatment allows for a higher concentration of the drug. Increase it to 15 drops and water the strawberry plot in late autumn.

Ash. An ash or ash-soap solution is good and universal, working on all crops.

Leave a glass of ash in a bucket of water for a day. Spray with the strained solution.

You can add shavings of laundry soap dissolved in warm water. Ash is a fertilizer and can be mulch.

It only benefits strawberries. There is no harm to humans either.

Agrotechnical methods of protection are the same for any type of fungus. Competent care blocks the road to many diseases at once.

Rhizoctoniosis

Garden strawberries also have a problem that you won’t notice right away. Black rot (rhizoctoniosis) affecting the roots.

The pathogen is also a fungus. Black root rot begins its dirty work from young roots. It affects them focally.

But the fungus grows quickly and takes over the entire root system. This specialization does not give the plant a chance to develop.

The mushroom is “polyphagous” - it lives on different crops, is tenacious, and harmful.

If the lower leaves have turned brown, and a weak force on the bush allows you to easily remove it (without roots), this is rhizoctonia.

The fight against the disease is made difficult by the indiscriminateness of the fungus in its diet.

It is difficult to plan crop rotation so that there is no carrier of black root rot nearby.

Among the control measures:

• Crop rotation: return strawberries to their original place at intervals of 5 years, do not plant after crops susceptible to the disease;
• Cleanliness of the site - remove weeds, including their remains before wintering;
• Disinfection of planting material (warming in water, treatment with antiseptics);
• Treatment with fungicides (autumn, spring, summer);
• Take “like with like” – use fungal fungicides. Trichoderma is a fungal drug. It protects and frees the soil and, accordingly, plant roots from pathogenic fungi. It is effective to apply Trichoderma using drip irrigation.

By following the agricultural practices adopted for strawberries, you will further reduce the risk of black root rot appearing on the crop.

Wilt (Verticillium wilt)

The pathogen is extremely resistant. The spores are viable in the soil for a quarter of a century (!) – as long as 25 years.

The disease is also of fungal etiology. The distribution routes are varied. The spores are microscopically small and invisible.

They are carried on a tool, with planting material, and can even “arrive” on the gardener’s shoes.

Dwarfism of the bushes appears. The bush usually does not survive to fruiting.

Typical wilt flow:

• Leaf spotting - the formation of dark spots on them;
• The appearance of necroticity: leaf tissue dies between the veins;
• The older leaves below are affected and die first;
• A severely affected strawberry plant dies.

Sometimes the bush “burns out” in three days, but it can wither for two years.

It depends on the resistance of the particular variety, weather conditions, even the type of soil.

Diagnostic test: cross section of the plant. Brown vessels are visible on it with verticillium wilt.

Control of verticillium:

• Agricultural technology - compliance with the necessary measures to prevent pathogen access to the plant;
• Reasonable crop rotation;
• Cleanliness of the site;
• Burning affected bushes;
• Correct selection of green manure predecessor;
• Selection of resistant varieties;
• Biological methods - treating seedlings with biological products that prevent the development of the fungus;
• Application of fungicides. Sometimes this is necessary. Fumigation is carried out in the greenhouse - treatment with gaseous fungicides that disinfect the soil. In the area outside the greenhouses - spraying of plants with systemic (penetrating into tissues) fungicides. These are “Fundazol”, “Benorad” - use according to instructions.

Strawberry diseases are mainly fungal in nature. Therefore, control measures are rarely specific.

They are aimed at destroying the fungus, and fungi often prefer the same conditions.

Therefore, by fighting one, you are preventing others.

Strawberries, like all living organisms, need protection and help. Try to save her. Then it won’t upset you, all your hard work will be paid off with the joy of a healthy harvest.

See you soon, dear readers!

Can significantly affect the yield. Excellent weather conditions, an abundance of green mass and fruits - all this is ideal for insects to destroy entire plantations of shrubs.

To avoid loss of strawberry crops from pests, it is necessary to carry out preventive protective measures. They will help reduce the likelihood of pests, especially those that live in the soil.

The spectrum of strawberry pests includes a sufficient number of such individuals. The main ones are presented below.

Strawberry pests – Strawberry whitefly

Strawberry whitefly or strawberry aleurodid – Aleurodes fragariae

The whitefly that harms strawberries is very small. It looks like a micro white butterfly, less than 1.5 mm long and only 0.3 mm wide. Whitefly wings are covered on top with a coating similar to wax. There are two pairs of wings.

Whiteflies settle at the bottom of the leaves, sucking the juice from them. Butterflies do not like sunlight, so they can be found in shaded areas.

They also lay their eggs on the underside of leaves. Their larvae are six-legged, oval, flat. They cannot be seen with the naked eye. In search of food, they also stick to leaf blades. Over time, their limbs and whiskers stop working.

After emerging from the puparia (a type of cocoon), fully developed adults are formed. During one growing season, crops can produce up to 4 generations of whiteflies. This pest overwinters in plant debris and top layers of soil.

To protect strawberries from this pest, they are treated with pesticides before flowering and after harvesting the berries.

Strawberries are grown on mulch film - this prevents the spread of butterflies.

Strawberry pests – Hairy Bronzewort

Bronzovka shaggy – Tropinota hirta

Hairy bronzeweed damages the generative organs of the plant.

This is a black insect, matte. Length approximately 12 mm. This is a typical representative of lamellar, which indicates its soil development. Bronzovka winters in the ground. From the end of May to the end of June, bronze beetles cause the greatest harm to strawberries - they feed on flowers, and periodically on young leaves.

All stages of beetle development are associated with soil, as already mentioned. This is what makes it difficult to remove pests from a certain area. In areas where intensive agricultural technology and constant plowing of the soil are used, the number of bronze beetles is steadily falling. But not everyone can afford such expenses. Even in garden plots, not everyone cultivates the land intensively.

The best recommendation for preventing the spread of hairy bronze blight is digging up the soil and removing the larvae (suitable for small areas). It would also be a good idea to set fire to straw and leaves to repel beetles. Some use female baits. As a last resort, you can collect beetles from plants by hand.

Since bronze grass begins to act actively during the flowering period, treatment with chemicals is not automatically allowed.

The only suitable insecticide is Calypso. It can be used during any growing season. The effect appears after 3 hours.

Strawberry Pests – Green Peach Aphid

Green peach aphid – Myzus persicae

Green peach aphids inhabit the generative organs of plants, namely petioles and peduncles. As a result, the plants weaken and die.

Chemical means of control are absolutely the same as for other pests.

To protect strawberries from aphids, they use the gall midge aphidimiza, which is a predator. These gall midges are grown in biological laboratories, laying out a cocoon per square meter at the first appearance of aphids. If the aphid has already multiplied greatly, the number of entomophage cocoons is increased to 3 pieces per 1m2.

Strawberry pests – Strawberry leaf beetle

Strawberry leaf beetle – Galerucella Tenella

The beetle is brown in color. It reaches 3-4 mm in length. It feeds on leaf blades. The name speaks for itself - leaf beetles eat out passages and holes in strawberry leaves.

The female lays eggs on the underside of the leaf or on the petioles. Clutches can be single or group.

The larvae hatch within 2 weeks. They feed in the same way as older beetles. Leaf beetle larvae are yellow with a brown head. Their length is up to 5 mm. There are spots and sparse short hairs on their back.

When the strawberry leaf beetle spreads strongly, the leaves dry out, and the fruits remain in small quantities and are severely deformed.

The beetles overwinter in the ground under plant debris. Based on this, the optimal control measures are agrotechnical. Among the chemicals allowed, Nurell D, Shar Pei, Karate and Zolon. They are used during the active life of the pest.

Strawberry pests – Strawberry nematode

Strawberry nematode – Aphelenchoides Fragariae

Nematodes harm all vegetable and berry crops without exception. Their harmfulness is extremely high. Therefore, their appearance close to a field or vegetable garden is highly undesirable. The harvest level may drop by up to half.

This nematode is a round worm, up to 1 mm long. The body is in the shape of an elongated cylinder.

Worms settle in the buds and axils of leaves. Nematodes cause deformation of buds, flowers and ovaries. They become ugly and twisted. The bushes stop growing. If severely damaged by a nematode, the bush may not produce berries at all. At best, a few ugly bushes. Beauty of Zagorye and Early Maheraukha lose up to 70% of their production when damaged by these pests. The Festivalnaya variety is relatively stable.

As befits most insects and various pests, nematodes can remain in the soil for a long time. Therefore, the best method of prevention is to carry out all agricultural operations correctly and on time. It is necessary to adhere to crop rotation, returning the strawberries to their original place after a certain number of years. The destruction of weeds and various plant debris is also included in these actions.

If signs of nematode infection are detected in strawberries, the diseased plants are removed immediately, and after that the soil is treated with a 5% solution of ferrous sulfate.

Before planting seedlings I use thermotherapy. In addition to removing nematodes, this method will also get rid of ticks.

Strawberry pests – Nettle leaf weevil

Nettle leaf weevil –Phyllobius urticae

A bright green beetle that damages leaf blades.

Not particularly large in size - up to 12 mm long, common in the European part of Russia and Siberia. The pest overwinters in the soil. In the spring they begin to actively act.

Leaf weevils are polyphagous and have quite bright colors - from green-blue to bronze-brown. Males and females often have different colors.

Most species of beetles emerge from the soil in the spring, when rosaceous plants are in the rose bud phase. They usually feed in the early morning, evening and night, as well as in cloudy weather, on the buds, leaves and flowers of various tree and shrub plants for about a month. During the daytime, they are found in rolled up leaves, under loose bark, or in the litter under plants.

The eggs are laid in the soil, and the legless, white, thick, wrinkled larvae that emerge live in the upper layers of the soil, feeding on the small roots of plants. Their influence on the condition of plants is insignificant. The larvae also pupate in the soil. The pupae are pale white in color, with black eyes, about 5 mm long. The beetles emerge from their pupae in late summer or autumn, but remain in the soil for the winter.

Before flowering, the bushes can be sprayed with 50% karbofos (no more than 30 grams per bucket of water is required). Additionally, Confidor and Decis are used.

Strawberry pests - May beetle

– Melolontha melolontha, Melolontha hippocastani

Two species of beetles of the same genus cause harm. They are similar in appearance and harmfulness. Quite large - 22-29 mm. Black, but elytra brownish. Covered with white fine hairs.

They fly already in April in warmer southern regions and in May in colder ones. They are active in the afternoon and almost evening. Distributed near deciduous trees. The flight period is 20-40 days, during which they safely eat the foliage.

The female reproduces clutches at a depth of up to 30 cm. They choose soils that are medium in granulometric composition, avoiding sandy and coarse soils. Each female can lay up to 70 eggs. After 1-1.5 months, larvae appear. For the first year of their life cycle, they feed on humus, gradually digging closer and closer under the root systems of various plants.

The cockchafer larva remains in this stage for 3 years. Only in the 4th summer of its existence does it pupate. And, again, after 1-1.5 months the beetle emerges from the pupa, which also spends the next winter in the soil.

The larvae of the cockchafer are easily recognizable. They are very large (up to 6 cm and sometimes more), white or yellowish-white in color.

It is important to use the same standard insecticides - Nurell D, Zolon, Shar Pei and Karate during the period of active pest control of beetles and their larvae. During the process of their degeneration and pupation in the presence of drip irrigation, Marshall, Bazudin, Aktaru and Zolon are added to the nutrient solution in the required concentrations. If there is no drip irrigation on a given farm, then the soil is treated with Force, as well as Aktara VDG 250g/l.

Strawberry pests – Raspberry-strawberry weevil

Raspberry-strawberry weevil – Anthonomus Rubi

The beetle is dark in color (gray or black), small in size - only 2-3 mm in length. Harms mainly young leaves, buds and pedicels.

During the period of budding and further flowering, pedicels without buds are found on the affected bushes. Sometimes the buds hang on a thin film.

The weevil does the most damage to early varieties of strawberries. It emerges from the soil after wintering and begins to gnaw and eat up the stalks of the first buds. It is these buds that produce the largest first berries.

After eating, the females lay larvae in the buds. These larvae devour the contents, and after some time pupate there.

Each larva develops in 20-25 days. The next generation of weevils feeds on young leaves. They gnaw out narrow holes in them in large quantities.

Weevils traditionally overwinter in the ground at a shallow depth (up to 1.5 cm) or under plant debris.

To protect strawberries from this pest, strawberry bushes are sprayed with Nurell D, Karate, Aktellik, and Zolon during the period of pest activity.

Strawberry pests – Mole cricket

Mole cricket – Gryllotalpa gryllotalpa

The mole cricket is a large, unpleasant-looking typical garden and field pest. The range of plants affected by this beetle is very wide and is polyphagous. The presence of mole crickets on the site will be indicated by the wilting of plants, when they are pulled out, bitten parts of the root system are visible.

The mole cricket is about 6 cm in length. The beetle is brown in color. The front paws are very large with the presence of shins with teeth capable of digging the soil.

A very large number of this pest occurs in fields well fertilized with organic fertilizers. In addition, high humidity is also a plus for them.

Mole crickets overwinter in 20-40 centimeters of soil. In the spring, when the soil temperature reaches 8-10 ºС, the beetles crawl to higher layers and begin to actively gnaw on the roots. Consequently, the greatest harmfulness occurs in early spring, as well as in early summer.

At a depth of 14 cm, females lay eggs. Their maximum number reaches 400 pieces. Mole crickets protect their offspring and hatched larvae. The larvae themselves hatch by the end of May - beginning of June.

They begin to feed only a few weeks after hatching. They feed on plants. The mole cricket lives in the larval stage for 2 years.

To fight mole crickets, special baits are used. Marshall, Hinofur and Zolon are also used for pickling. Similarly with chafers, the same preparations are used for drip irrigation and in the absence of it - Force.

Strawberry pests – Strawberry mite

Strawberry mite –Tarsonemus fragariae

The tick is transparent and small. The size of the female is 0.2 mm, the male is 1.5 times smaller. It is impossible to detect this mite with the naked eye. At the initial stages of development, mites are whitish-transparent. As they grow older, they turn yellow or brown. Bushes heavily affected by strawberry mite are always dwarf. Their productivity is extremely reduced.

Mites suck sap from young leaves. After this, the leaves curl, become waxy yellow in appearance and die. Those that survived remain wrinkled.

The influence of mites on strawberry bushes is most noticeable in the second half of summer.

Strawberry pests such as mites prefer waterlogged regions and places with warm temperatures. The pest is widespread. But the harmfulness increases from southern and dry territories to humid and warm places in the north.

May be found in greenhouses.

To protect strawberries from this pest, it is necessary to use only clean and healthy seedlings before planting. The drug Keltan (0.2% solution at the beginning of leaf growth) can partially destroy the mite. An alternative to it is Karbofos (0.3% solution). This spraying is repeated, if necessary, after harvesting and removing old leaves.

Strawberry pests - Spider mites

Spider mite – Tetranychus Urticae

These mites envelop the entire bush with a thin web. After some time, the bush dries out completely.

On this web, in good lighting, you can see those same spider mites. They are very small - 0.5 mm, whitish. Therefore, they are not easy to notice in the shade and on leaf blades. They inhabit the undersides of leaf blades. The initial signs are visible, on the contrary, at the top of the leaf. These are small light dots.

In the spring, spider mites develop on weeds, after which they directly infect the strawberries themselves. The maximum number of pests occurs in the second part of fruiting.

For prevention, you need to adhere to all growing rules without exception. When spider mites appear, a predator, Phytoseiulus, is bred on plantations. - This is also a mite that feeds on spider mites. It is grown on an industrial scale in biological laboratories.

The following acaricides are used: Actellik, Sunmite, Omite, Flumite and Ortus.

Strawberry pests - Slugs

Slugs damage strawberry crops in any growing region. They best tolerate temperatures from +15 to +17 ºС. The air humidity must be absolute. That is why they cause the most damage in a humid climate and under appropriate cultivation conditions.

They overwinter in the ground. But mostly in areas remote from the cultivation zone. Overwintered individuals lay eggs in June, and those that hatched from eggs in the spring lay eggs in July-August.

Slug clutches are prepared under lumps of earth in damp areas.

They harm the fruits. They eat the pulp of the berry, starting from the bottom - where the berry comes into contact with the soil or a wet object. Slugs gnaw round holes in the centers of leaf blades. Less often they use the edges of leaves for this. During the day, slugs do not come to the surface. They actively do harm during twilight hours. Depending on the species, a slug can live up to 4 years.

To protect strawberries from slugs using chemical protection agents, Slimax is effective in a concentration of 5-7 kg/ha. You can also sprinkle the row spacing with metaldehyde (8-10 kg/ha). Before planting, the soil is treated with formaldehyde. In addition, you should control the humidity in the area occupied by strawberries and adhere to the rules of agrotechnical soil cultivation.

Strawberry pests – Tobacco thrips

Tobacco thrips – Thrips tabaci

This type of thrips is widespread everywhere. Damages many crops, both vegetables and berries. The size of thrips is traditionally small - adult individuals reach up to 1 mm. The color of thrips is yellowish and brown. The larvae are light. Thrips overwinter in plant debris or at shallow depths in the ground.

In early spring they feed on weeds. The pest is extremely prolific - the female produces 70-100 eggs per clutch. The larvae appear after 5 days. After another 10 days, the larvae go deep into a 15-centimeter layer of soil and a week later adult insects appear. During the growing season, thrips form a maximum of 5 generations.

Spray in the same way as in previous cases.

Strawberry pest control methods

The best way to combat anything is to prevent the pest or pathogen from appearing. With the right approach, you can completely prevent any of the pests from infecting your area.

Agrotechnical methods for protecting strawberries from pests

• compliance with crop rotation;
• destruction of weeds and plant residues;
• plowing/digging the soil;
• air humidity control (for greenhouse conditions);
• controlled amount of watering.

Biological methods for protecting strawberries from pests

In this case, they involve the cultivation of insect predators that are able to feed on certain types of pests. These are entomophagous gall midges Aphidimiza - against aphids and Phytoseiulus - against spider mites.

Chemical methods for protecting strawberries from pests

• Apollo, (active clofentezine, 500 g/l) is a contact acaricide that destroys spider mites. Treatments are carried out twice during the growing season with a consumption of the drug of 0.3-0.4 l/ha.
• Zolon, k.e. (active fosolone, 350 g/l) – exhibits a wide spectrum of action on strawberries. Used during the growing season before flowering and after harvest. Consumption rate 0.6 l/ha.
• Karate, μs (a.v. lambda-cyhalothrin, 50 g/l) – suitable against aphids, mites, leaf beetles and other pests. To prepare the solution, take 4 g of the drug per 10 liters of water.
• Aktellik, k.e. (d.v. pirimiphos-methyl) – on this berry crop, the insecticide can destroy almost all pests, including beetles and aphids. Spray twice during the growing season with a consumption rate of 0.6 l/ha.
• Aktara, v.g. (active ingredient thiamethoxam 250 g/kg) – used with a rate of 2 g/10 l of water per hundred square meters. Two treatments. The first spraying is before flowering, the second spraying is after harvesting. Intavir, vrt (active ingredient cypermethrin, 37.5 g/kg) - effective use against weevils on strawberry plantations. Spray 25 days before harvesting berries with a consumption of 1.5 liters per 10 m2.
• Karbofos, k.e. (active ingredient karbofos 30%) is an insectoacaricide that fights aphids, beetles, weevils, moths and mites. Spraying is carried out a month before harvest. Consumption is 10 liters for 10 strawberry bushes, and one solution requires 8 liters of water and 60 g of Karbofos.
• Metaldehyde, g. (active metaldehyde) is a typical remedy against slugs. Scatter onto the soil surface. Approximate consumption – 4 granules per square meter.
• Shar Pei, m.e. (active cypermethrin, 250 g/l) - used against beetles and often other pests. The consumption rate ranges from 0.15 to 0.3 l/ha.
• Nurell D, k.e. (active ingredient chlorpyrifos 500 g/l + cypermethrin 50 g/l) – a broad-spectrum insecticide. The consumption rate is 1-1.5 l/ha.
• Force, g. (a.v. tefluthrin) - treat strawberry plantations in the absence of drip irrigation once at a working solution concentration of 10-12 kg/ha.

Traditional methods of protecting strawberries from pests

• Tobacco dust - can be used against aphids, fleas, and mites. Take 1 kg of dust per 10 liters of water and leave for 24 hours. Then dilute with water in a ratio of 1:3 and add 40 g of soap per 10 liters of solution. Spray 2 weeks before harvesting.
• Mustard powder – pollinates the soil, which prevents the appearance of slugs. In addition, it gets rid of bedbugs and thrips (100 g per 10 liters of water should also be infused for 2 days, strained, and added 40 g of soap). Treatments are carried out 20 days after flowering.
• Honey acts as bait for mole crickets.
• Salt – regular table salt will rid your strawberry plantings of ants.
• Sunflower oil - diluted in water gives the same effect as salt.
• Apple cider vinegar - spray it on plants against aphids.

With the onset of summer, everyone is looking forward to the strawberry harvest. However, strawberries are susceptible to a large number of diseases, and treatment measures must be taken on time. Otherwise, there is a risk of being left without a treat. This article describes the most common plant diseases, their symptoms, treatment and prevention methods that will help you save strawberries and enjoy the divine taste of their fruits.

spotting

Spot is the most common strawberry disease. It affects not only the foliage part, but also leads to crop loss. With an extensive disease, all the fruits, as well as the seedlings themselves, may be lost. The threat of plant damage by this disease persists throughout the entire growing season. The spotting will not go away on its own; to get rid of it, you must immediately take appropriate measures. Strawberry leaf spot is caused by a fungus Depending on its type, the following types of disease are distinguished:

• white spotting;
• brown;
• brown.

The specific type of disease determines what treatment and prevention methods a gardener needs to take to save the crop and plant.

Important! If strawberries and the soil under them are not treated, you can lose the harvest not only this year, but also next year: the fungus will begin to actively develop next year, inhibiting the growth and flowering of new seedlings.

This type of disease is caused by fungi of the genus Mycospherella and Ramularia. Begins to develop in early spring. It affects leaves, stalks, petioles, and berries. Signs of white spotting can be detected as early as May. These include:

• the formation of white spots with a dark edging on the surface of the leaves;
• the shape of the spots is round or oval, they are located along the central vein of the leaves;
• over time, the spots fall out, and holes form in their place; as the disease develops, their size becomes larger and larger, forming large holes;
• leaves and petioles die;
• the berries become stained and rot or dry out.

Factors that provoke infection of strawberries with this disease are:

• before planting the seedlings, onions, garlic, herbs, carrots, potatoes, eggplants, cucumbers, tomatoes, corn, celery, beans, rapeseed, clover, and grains grew on the site;
• dense planting;
• soil damage by rot or pests;
• failure to remove dry leaves in a timely manner;
• untreated or late-treated soil in the spring;
• long-term use of the site.

In winter, the spores are stored in plant debris. The fungus tolerates heat and low temperatures, wet weather and drought. In open places where there is a lot of light, spores develop faster. The disease is transmitted to healthy sprouts by wind, rain, insects, and through the soil.

Control and prevention measures:

• in early spring, clear the area of ​​last year's leaves and burn them;
• treat the seedlings with “Falcon” in the spring, and “Ordan” in the fall;
• in the case of planting new shoots, after combating white spotting, only healthy, undamaged seedlings are used;
• thin out the tendrils and seedlings to ensure normal density;
• promptly remove missing, damaged leaves and seedlings;
• remove missing berries;
• do not overfill;
• fertilize with potassium fertilizer;
• do not fertilize with organic substances (manure, droppings).

Did you know? Folk remedies for combating strawberry diseases in the form of white spot include spraying the leaves of the plant with an iodine solution (50 ml of iodine per 10 liters of water).

Brown spot

The causative agent of brown spot is a fungus of the genus Mersoninna. Develops in mid-July. Brown spot affects strawberry leaves, sometimes runners and petioles. At the onset of the disease, the leaves become covered with large reddish spots of angular, irregular shape. Later the spots turn brown. Black dots that secrete mucus are scattered on the surface of the spots. As the disease progresses, the spots lose their distinct color and the leaves simply dry out. On petioles and tendrils, brown spotting reveals itself as small, slightly pressed black dots. Carriers are insects, wind, and raindrops.

Important! L The strawberry leaves disappear in a short period of time. At a late stage, the disease is difficult to notice. It seems that the plant is simply preparing for a period of rest: the spots disappear and the leaves simply dry out. However, when young foliage grows, micelle spots immediately form on it.

Factors that create favorable conditions for the development of the disease:

• dense planting;
• excessive watering;
• failure to clear the area of ​​weeds in a timely manner.

Control and prevention measures:

• in the fall, spray the area with “Ordan”;
• in the spring, treat with Falcon or Ridomil for prevention;
• use only healthy seedlings for planting;
• promptly trim and clear the area of ​​dry leaves and tendrils;
• use potash fertilizers;
• treatment with manganese solution (5 g per 10 liters of water).

Angular or brown spotting

The plant is attacked in July. Damages leaves, tendrils, petioles, berries. It leads to the death of leaves, which subsequently causes the plants to withstand the winter poorly, many of them freeze, and the next year’s yield also deteriorates.

At the beginning of the disease, yellowish spots form on the leaves, which eventually turn brown. However, the yellowish border remains. As the disease progresses, the spots increase in size and take on an angular shape. After rains, light mucous fungal spores form on the surface of the spots. On the petioles and runners, the disease manifests itself as brown dots, which eventually turn into necrosis.

• in autumn, remove all dry and infected foliage;
• treat plants with “Ordan” in the autumn;
• In the spring, for prevention, you can spray with Ridomil, Quadris or Falcon.

The disease appears on leaves and fruits as a white coating, which smells like mold. The causative agent is fungi that are transmitted by air or along with infected seedlings.

Methods of control and prevention:

• planting strawberries in a well-ventilated and sufficiently illuminated area;
• grow the plant in high beds;
• spring spraying with Quadris (for prevention);
• If signs of disease are detected after picking berries, the plants are sprayed with Fundazol.

Did you know? Powdery mildew gives the unpleasant taste of mold and ugly shape to strawberry fruits.

Rot

Rot is one of the dangerous and common diseases of strawberries. It's difficult to get her out. At the same time, it leads to the death of a large amount of crops. The disease can destroy up to 85% of the fruit.

Affects the entire above-ground part of strawberries. Signs of the disease include:

Important! The most favorable condition for the development of rot is moist soil. Drying excessively moist soil during heavy rainfall will help save the plant from disease.

Methods of control and prevention:

• planting healthy seedlings;
• when a disease is detected, spray with "Antrakol" or "Quadris".

Rhizoctonia (black root rot)

Strawberries are susceptible to this disease throughout the growing season. With this disease, round black spots form on the roots of the plant. Over time, the root system becomes flabby and dry. With this disease, the yield is significantly reduced, the seedlings grow poorly and practically do not form mustaches, the petioles become brown. After some time, in the absence of appropriate measures, the plant dies.

Plants that grow are most susceptible to rhizoctonia:

• on depleted soil;
• in areas where potatoes, tomatoes, and corn had previously grown;
• in conditions where strawberries were grown for a long time without changing location.

Methods of control and prevention:

• changing the place where the plant is grown (plant in the same place no earlier than after 4 years);
• It is not advisable to fertilize with organic matter;
• For prevention, seedlings are sprayed with Ordan in the fall.

A sign of white rot disease is the lightening of the foliage followed by drying out or rotting. A white coating forms on the leaves and berries. Over time, the berries begin to rot. The development of the disease is promoted by cool, damp weather and dense planting.

• thinning of densely planted seedlings;
• growing in high beds;
• When signs of disease are detected, strawberries are treated with Desoral.

It affects the entire above-ground part of the plant. Gray spots appear on the leaves; they do not have clear boundaries. The fruits become covered with brown spots, become watery, flabby and tasteless. As the disease develops, the berries become completely covered with a gray coating.

Factors associated with the appearance of gray rot are increased humidity and decreased temperature, berries touching the ground, and untimely harvesting of infected berries. The most favorable conditions are damp, cold weather and temperature changes. The fungus, which causes rot, overwinters in the soil and on the remains of strawberries.

Methods of prevention and control:

• autumn cleaning of the area from infected leaves and fruits;
• mulching with straw;
• thinning;
• spraying at the beginning and middle of flowering with Teldor;
• periodic cleaning of infected fruits, leaves, tendrils, and weeds.

Did you know? The varieties most susceptible to gray rot are the following: Zengana, Krasavitsa, Zolushka, Nadezhda.

Black rot

Berries are susceptible to this disease. They turn brown, lose their smell and taste, and become watery. As the disease develops, they become covered with a dark coating.

Control and prevention measures:

• growing strawberries in high beds;
• autumn treatment with "Ordan";
• for prevention in the spring, spray with boric acid (10 g per 10 liters of water).

Important! Preventiveprotection of strawberries from diseasesSpraying with chemicals should be done before flowering and after harvesting. If urgent measures need to be taken, the crop after spraying is collected and thrown away. Be sure to familiarize yourself with the dangerous period of exposure to poisons, which is indicated on the packaging.

Withering

This disease occurs quite often. The disease is caused by mushrooms. At the same time, strawberry bushes disappear very quickly. Wilting is also characterized by massive plant damage.