Encyclopedia of Transbaikalia. The influence of deforestation on the condition of the taiga river Chikoy Travel along the Chikoy River
In a small area it forms the border between Russia and Mongolia.
Chikoy originates on the slopes of the Daursky ridge. The length of the river is 769 km, the basin area is 46.2 thousand km 2 - the largest tributary of the Selenga in terms of basin area and the 2nd longest (after the Khilok River). The river network is formed by 352 watercourses. The largest tributary is the Menza (left). The basin contains 560 lakes with an area of 14.8 km2.
The river flows along the southern slope of the Malkhansky ridge. Over a long distance, the river valley is an alternation of narrow gorges and intermountain expansions. In the upper reaches of Chikoy there is a mountain river, and downstream there is a semi-mountain river. Characteristic is the alternation of an incised channel (in the upper and middle reaches) with a wide floodplain channel (within intermountain basins). In free conditions of development of channel deformations, the formation of a floodplain multi-branch system is possible.
The river basin is located in a zone of insufficiently humid climate with warm summers and moderately harsh winters with little snow. The average long-term water flow in the lower reaches is 261 m 3 /s (flow volume 8.237 km 3 /year). The river is fed primarily by rain. Far Eastern type of water regime with low spring floods and frequent summer-autumn floods, exceeding the flood in terms of hydrological characteristics. The wettest months are July and August. Maximum water flow 4760 m 3 /s. Floods are possible during this period of the year. The minimum water flow during the open channel period is 65.0 m 3 /s, and during the freeze-up period - 0.02 m 3 /s.
Autumn ice phenomena begin in the third ten days of October. After 3–5 days, ice drift begins (duration up to 15 days). At the end of the first ten days of November, ice cover is established. In winter, the river can freeze in the upper and middle reaches. The spring opening of the river begins with a short (4 days) ice drift. By the end of April the river is free of ice. The total duration of the period with ice phenomena is about 190 days.
The average long-term water turbidity is 49 g/m3, which corresponds to a suspended sediment flow rate of 12.8 kg/s and a sediment runoff of about 400 thousand tons. The water is fresh, low-mineralized (50–65 mg/l), and according to its chemical composition it belongs to the hydrocarbonate class and calcium group. Water quality decreases in areas where mining operations and populated areas are located. The content of organic substances in river water is increased.
From the middle of the 17th century. The river served as a waterway for Russian explorers during the development of Transbaikalia. The lower reaches of Chikoy were part of the route to Mongolia. Currently the river is navigable on the lower 152 km. The river water is used for irrigation; mineral springs – for balneological purposes (Yamarovka resort). In the river basin there are deposits of gold, tungsten, molybdenum, tin, silver, copper, iron, hard and brown coal. Object of fishing: taimen, grayling, lenok.
On the banks of the river there are many villages (Krasny Chikoy, Maloarkhangelsk, Bolshaya Kudara, Ust-Kiran, Bolshoy Lug), the village. Turn.
CHIKOY, river, right tributary of the river. Selenga belongs to the drainage basin of the Arctic Ocean. Originates on a slope Chikokonsky ridge in the area of Bystrinsky Golets. Part of the catchment area is located in Mongolia, and the lower reaches are in the Republic of Buryatia. The river has a length of 769 km, the drainage area is 46,200 km 2. The average annual flow at the mouth is 8.32 km 3 . On the left side, many tributaries flow into Chikoy, of which the largest is the river. Menza. There are 560 lakes in the catchment area with a total area of about 15 km2.
The upper reaches of Chikoy are located in a narrow strip between the Chikokonsky and Chatanginsky ridges. Crossing the highlands, the river has a narrow valley, a rapids bed, and a rapid current. The direction of flow within the area gradually changes from northeast through meridional to latitudinal when the river enters Chikoy depression. Here the Chicoya valley expands and the size of the channel increases. The characteristic profile of the river valley is V-shaped, with the exception of the northern section (here it is trapezoidal). The river valley in the upper reaches is erosion-tectonic, with the exception of the segment located in the Chikoy depression (here the valley is tectonic). The pattern of the river network is predominantly branched in the northern part and branched orthogonal in the southern part.
The Chikoy flows through a territory that is very complex both geomorphologically and geologically-structurally. The largest morphostructure is Chikoy depression, extended parallel Malkhansky ridge. The most important geological and structural elements are the transregional Mongol-Okhotsk fault, which bounds the Chikoy depression from the north, and 2 regional faults. The first is located parallel to the Mongol-Okhotsk fault, limiting the depression from the south, the 2nd extends in the northwest direction, controlling the river valley. Menza. In the latitudinal direction, the Chicoya river valley is typically tectonic and is characterized by a trapezoidal profile.
Chikoy is predominantly rain fed (50-65%). The monthly maximum flow is observed in August, and on most tributaries - in May. The lowest monthly flow occurs in February or March. Spring floods often exceed summer floods in height. In winter the river freezes. Ice cover usually forms in the 3rd ten-day period of October and is destroyed in the 3rd ten-day period of April. The duration of freeze-up is 150-190 days. The ice thickness reaches 165 cm. The concentration of substances dissolved in water does not exceed 100 mg/l. The species composition of fish is dominated by salmon and grayling, with a clear dominance of lenka.
In the Chikoya basin, pine, pine-cedar-larch forests are common, sometimes with an admixture of fir. In the Chikoy depression there are tracts of pine and larch-pine and cedar wild rosemary-lingonberry-green moss forests. Loose Quaternary sediments of the floodplains of large rivers determine the development of riverine landscapes - meadow-shrub-poplar, alder-forb-meadow, steppe fescue-bluegrass. Above s. Red Chikoy along the river within the Chikoy depression there are pine grass-shrub steppe forests.
The river is not navigable; due to the presence of rocky rifts, navigation of motor boats is possible only in certain areas. On the banks of the river there are ss. Krasny Chikoy, Arkhangelskoye, Cheremkhovo, Osinovka, Gutai, etc.
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Excerpt characterizing Chikoy (river)
“Well, enjoy the meeting, I’ll pick her up in an hour.” Nobody will bother you. And then I'll go get her. She will go to a monastery - I think this is the best place for such a gifted girl as your daughter.– Monastery?!! But she has never been a believer, Your Holiness, she is a hereditary Witch, and nothing in the world will force her to be different. This is who she is and she can never change. Even if you destroy her, she will still remain a Witch! Just like me and my mother. You can't make her a believer!
“What a child you are, Madonna Isidora!” Caraffa laughed sincerely. “No one is going to make her a “believer.” I think she can serve our holy church very well by being exactly who she is. And perhaps even more. I have far-reaching plans for your daughter...
– What do you mean, Your Holiness? And what does this have to do with the monastery? – I whispered with frozen lips.
I was shaking. All this didn’t fit in my head, and I didn’t understand anything yet, I just felt that Caraffa was telling the truth. Only one thing scared me half to death - what kind of “far-reaching” plans could this terrible man have for my poor girl?!..
– Calm down, Isidora, and stop expecting something terrible from me all the time! You provoke fate, you know... The fact is that the monastery I’m talking about is very difficult... And outside its walls, almost not a single soul knows about it. This is a monastery exclusively for Sorcerers and Witches. And it has stood for thousands of years. I've been there several times. I studied there... But, unfortunately, I didn’t find what I was looking for. They rejected me... - Caraffa thought for a moment and, to my surprise, suddenly became very sad. “But I’m sure they’ll like Anna.” And I’m also sure that they will have something to teach your talented daughter, Isidora.
– Are you talking about Meteora*, Your Holiness? – Knowing the answer in advance, I still asked.
Caraffa's eyebrows crawled up his forehead in surprise. Apparently he didn’t expect that I had heard about it...
– Do you know them? Have you been there?!..
– No, my father was there, Your Holiness. But he later taught me a lot (later I wildly regretted telling him this...). What do you want to teach my daughter there, Holiness?! And why?.. After all, in order to declare her a Witch, you already have enough evidence. Anyway, later you will try to burn her like everyone else, right?!..
Karaffa smiled again...
– Why did you cling to this stupid idea, Madonna? I have no intention of causing any harm to your sweet daughter! She can still serve us wonderfully! I have been looking for a very long time for the Sage, who is still just a child, to teach her everything that the “monks” in Meteora know. And so that she would then help me in search of sorcerers and witches, such as she herself once was. Only then will she be a witch from God.
Caraffa didn’t seem crazy, he WAS one... Otherwise it was impossible to accept what he was saying now! This was not normal, and therefore scared me even more.
– Forgive me if I misunderstood something, Your Holiness... But how can there be Witches from God?!..
- Well, of course, Isidora! – Caraffa laughed, sincerely amazed at my “ignorance”. – If she uses her knowledge and skill in the name of the church, it will come to her from God, since she will create in His name! Don't you understand this?..
No, I didn’t understand!.. And this was said by a man with a completely sick imagination, who, moreover, sincerely believed in what he was talking about!.. He was incredibly dangerous in his madness and, moreover, had unlimited power. His fanaticism crossed all boundaries, and someone had to stop him.
“If you know how to force us to serve the church, then why are you burning us?!..” I ventured to ask. – After all, what we possess cannot be purchased for any money. Why don't you appreciate this? Why do you continue to destroy us? If you wanted to learn something, why not ask to teach you?..
– Because it is useless to try to change what you already think, Madonna. I can’t change you or people like you... I can only scare you. Or kill. But this will not give me what I have dreamed of for so long. Anna is still very young, and she can be taught to love the Lord without taking away her amazing Gift. It is useless for you to do this, because even if you swear to me your faith in Him, I will not believe you.
“And you will be absolutely right, Your Holiness,” I said calmly.
Karaffa stood up, preparing to leave.
– Just one question, and I beg you to answer it... if you can. Your defense, is she from the same monastery?
“Just like your youth, Isidora...” Karaffa smiled. - I'll be back in an hour.
This means that I was right - he received his strange “impenetrable” protection there, in Meteora!!! But why then didn’t my father know her?! Or was Caraffa there much later? And then suddenly another thought struck me!.. Youth!!! That's what I wanted, but I didn't get Karaffa! Apparently he had heard a lot about how long real Witches and Sorcerers live and how they leave “physical” life. And he wildly wanted to get this for himself... in order to have time to burn out the remaining “disobedient” half of existing Europe, and then rule over the rest, portraying a “holy righteous man” who mercifully descended on the “sinful” earth to save our “lost souls.”
PART 1
R. Chicocon
At the last meeting (tourists avoid the word “last”) before the upcoming water rafting, the question on the agenda was not the first, but again, far from the last, was the question: how much vodka to take with you. Hm-hm..., excuse me, as always I start with the most important, but we should start with the main thing. Well, then, in short, this is how we decided to go on a boat trip along the Chikokonu and Chikoy rivers in Southern Transbaikalia. And they chose the most suitable time of the year for this - September, in order to kill two birds with one stone. (One hare is a fish, the other is autumn beauty). Well, we discussed all the main points: who will go (four people), the readiness of the catamaran, the casting, etc. and the most important question remains: how much to take so that it’s normal? Andrei Kalashnikov, who came up with and organized this whole idea, suggested: “Let’s take it at the rate of 0.75 per day for everyone. That is, for ten days..., in short, we take two liters each. We’re not going to drink, but to engage in creativity, and vodka is just that – for inspiration!” I immediately agreed. But I immediately warned that, just in case, I’ll take an inspirational plus liter... or better yet, plus two.
So, off we went.
We left Chita, as we had planned on the morning of September 10, in a great mood, which only improved as we moved away from the city until, after 200 kilometers, we reached Lake Arey, which -"Pearl of Transbaikalia" . From the road through the forest we made our way to the shore. And then the mood dropped. “Pearl,” despite the clear weather, looked bad through numerous stumps and heaps of garbage, comparable in height to unique huge anthills. I started taking pictures of the lake and the ant heaps, then I gave up and took some trash cards to show you this “pearl jewelry in a modern frame.”
Lake Arey
And then we drank. Everyone drank, except Kolya Nikolaev, who was driving his SURFa. Oh yes, didn’t specify, kthen this is all: Andrei Kalashnikov, Roma Kuznetsov and me. In general, we drank, the mood settled down, and we drove further to the first roadside cafe, where we had lunch and drank again, but Kolya again did not. In this mode we moved to Krasny Chikoy (which is almost 600 km....
R. Khilok
Valley of the Chikoy River
... And when in the evening, having reached the goal, they estimated the fuel consumption, it turned out: 15 liters\100 km of travel - diesel fuel and 150 ml\100 km of travel - vodka for each passenger.
We settled down for the night in the village of Maloarkhangelskoye in the house of hospitable Aunt Ulyana. Before dinner we had to replenish the amusing supplies that had been unexpectedly wasted along the way, but by nightfall they had dried up again.
And so, on a foggy early morning (September 11), without waiting for sunrise, with driver Uncle Sasha, we left the village and moved through the mountains, fords and passes to the south deep into the Chikoy district through the village. Atsu.
R. Chikoy. Morning
Oxbow Lake
R Previously, during the war, there were several mining settlements along this route, and there were bridges over rivers. Now there are only traces of everything in the dense taiga, and rare cars, mainly gold miners, ply along the mountain-taiga highway. The road to Chikokon is not long (about 200 km), but difficult even for an UAZ, so fuel consumption has increased significantly. Moreover, now there were five of us drinking, and halfway there another car with hunter-fishermen caught up with us, and Andrei almost forcibly filled their empty mugs with our joy.
Pass to the Chicocon Valley
As a result, when we reached the destination by 19 o’clock, set up camp, half assembled the catamaran and celebrated this matter strongly at dinner, it turned out that we only had a quarter of the alcohol left. And there are nine days of rafting ahead, of which at least seven are now clearly expected to be dry. But for now it hardly bothered us, because at the moment everything was just fine. We are standing on the shore, steep ridges with treeless slopes hang over it. And Chikokon itself meanders among the yellow-green taiga mountains... Beauty all around!
Before sunset, I managed to climb onto the nearest slope and take from there a good overview map, on which the river valley with its tributaries is visible.
And after dark it became generally fun. We continued to leisurely have dinner when we heard the ominous clanging of caterpillars and a large iron all-terrain vehicle crawled out of the night (there are also plastic ones). Three people got out of its hatches, led by the senior hunting inspector of the region, Molokov. He was wearing only socks and in a good mood, so he immediately began interrogating us about our guns, licenses, and so on. Our guys were also in a good mood, so a discussion about weapons began, which turned into a skirmish (verbal, of course) and led to the inspector’s statement: “You have the wrong license, we will draw up a report.” - “What, wrong!?” - "Like this! It should be like this,” the boss took out dad and took out two of his own personalized licenses for demonstration. - “This is how it should be. But yours is not like that. You are in a completely different area! And this is my area. We will compose...”
Actually, Molokov was wrong, we had not violated anything yet and the guys were not going to agree. I did not participate in the argument and went to photograph the stars.
Finally, the inspector left without a protocol, promising to meet and check us in the lower reaches, and the all-terrain vehicle, rumbling, retreated across the river. And ten minutes later I heard a terrible laugh near the fire. "What's happened!?" - “Sanya, look what we have now: a license for a male wapiti - one piece and a license for a wild boar - one piece!!! How can we eat so much!?” In a word, the inspector, in the heat of discussion, left his papers on the ground.
In the morning we said goodbye to Uncle Sasha, completed the construction of the catamaran and launched it into the water. This day and the next (September 12 and 13) were hot. We swam a lot in the icy water.
The river is sandwiched in a narrow valley, high steep ridges crowd a winding channel with clear green water. There are many riffles and rocky rifts, but overall the river is not dangerous, although according to the tourist classification it can be category 3 of difficulty. Very beautiful banks, covered with mixed forest, are full of autumn colors. The red-orange aspen trees are especially good among the yellow birches.
Almost no fish were caught, but we shot ducks and caught a couple of hazel grouse. So every dinner we had was meat.
At the mouth of this stream we caught our first lenks
Aspens
In two days we rafted down about 40 km.
Drink while you can!
As expected, by the end of the second day, that is, on the evening of September 13 (what kind of mysticism?!), we ran out of all alcohol. Immediately the weather began to deteriorate, and the classic state of a dull time set in, but without any charm.
The next morning (September 14) was marked by low clouds across the sky and a premonition of rain (or, we celebrated it with tea and a premonition of complete sobriety for the rest of the hike).
But fish began to be caught. At 10:30 we sailed from our overnight stop, and half an hour later we stood in a creek filled with yellow pine needles, from under which we caught about thirty lenok and large grayling with a spinning rod. The very moment was to record this event, but... only with a camera.
The rain started at 15:00 and continued for a long time. The fish “disappeared from the river” again.
The fact that there was no more vodka created a special kind of joy. It’s not for nothing that they say that not drinking is as good as drinking. “If we meet people, we will greet them like this: “Is there vodka!? “Hello,” we laughed. This question soon turned out to be asked in reality.
Transbaikalia has been inhabited since time immemorial. Everywhere you can find traces of the life and activity of ancient inhabitants. This was the original and interesting culture of the early Transbaikal tribes - the ancestors of the Buryats and Evenks.
Three hundred years ago, before the arrival of the Russians, the indigenous population of Buryats and Evenks numbered only a few thousand people in Transbaikalia. The Evenks, in addition to the Daurian tribe, lived in a tribal system and were engaged in hunting and fishing. The social system of the Buryats had a higher level. It was characterized by class stratification. The ancestral nobility had slaves. There were also changes in the introduction of farming: the Buryats moved from hunting to cattle breeding and even to the beginnings of agriculture (they cultivated millet).
The Russians entered the territory where the modern Chita region is located from two sides - from the north and from the west. One of the first Russians to penetrate Transbaikalia was Maxim Perfilv. It was in 1639, when he and his comrades reached the mouth of the Tsypa River from the Lena and its tributary Vitim (now the Canary region). The search for Maxim Perfilyev contributed to the collection of information about the Evenki tribe of Daurs and the Amur River.
Eight years later, Ivan Galkin built the Barguzinsky fort, which was the beginning of the decisive advance of the Russians in Transbaikalia.
So in 1650, five Cossacks of Ataman Vasily Kolesnikov from the Barguzinsky fort crossed the Yablonovy Ridge and reached the Shilka River. Upon their return, they brought important information about the population and wealth of these places.
Based on this information, the Yenisei governor Afanasy Pasikov, whose power then extended to Eastern Siberia (with the exception of the Lena River basin, where the Yakut governor ruled), organized a campaign to the east under the leadership of the centurion Peter Beketov. Pyotr Beketov is a remarkable personality from the second generation of Ermakovichs. He founded many forts, which gave rise to future large settlements in Eastern Siberia.
Having set out with a hundred Cossacks in June 1652 from Yeniseisk, Pyotr Beketov swam across Lake Baikal and founded a fort on the Selenshch River, which he named Ust-Prorva. The following year, Beketov moved up the Selenga River and its tributaries Khilku and Chikoy. The fact that Chikoy was explored by Cossack explorers is evidenced by the fact that by the time of the founding of Red Chikoy (1670), the Selenga Cossacks knew not only the place where the Chikoy River flows into the Selenga, but also its sources. And this could only be known during Beketov’s first expedition. True, no fort or settlement was immediately founded on Chikoy. There was no particular need for this. But Chikoy and Khilk in the 17th century served as a means of advancing Russians to Eastern Transbaikalia, and later as a permanent means of their communication and exchange between Western and Eastern Transbaikalia. This is also evidenced by the fact that the origin of the word “Chikoy” is not of Buryat or Even origin, but Russian. The Russians pronounced the word “Chikoy” in those days “chuku” or “chika” and it meant a river originating in Chuku, i.e. in the Chukondo char. Later the loach became known as Sokhondo. The name, apparently, was born during the construction of the Selenginsky fort at the mouth of Chikoy.
The difficulties on the way of Pyotr Beketov’s detachment were incredible. Before us stretched an unknown country, covered with virgin untouched taiga, with untrodden paths and with many animals. And from behind the bushes an Evenk hunter or a Buryat herder, armed with a spear or bow, looked unkindly at the newcomers.
Krasny Chikoy, called Krasny Yar until the 30s of the 20th century, founded shortly after the arrival of the Russians in Transbaikalia, is the oldest of all Russian settlements on Chikoy. This begs the question, why was Red Chikoy not founded immediately, like the Irgen fort at the source of the Khilka, and much later, not a fort, but as a settlement? What guided the Cossack explorers from the Selenginsky fort when they founded Red Chikoy only a decade and a half after the development of the Selenginsky fort?
First of all, this can be explained by the fact that the Chikoy River, like the Khilok River, connecting the Selenga River with the Ingoda River, and through them the Russian forts, did not have a settlement, like the Khilka Valley. Therefore, the need arose to have such a settlement on Chicoy. But it did not have the character of a fort, because because of the upper reaches of the Chikoi, the small Mongols were pushed back, and the Buryats in its middle and lower reaches were brought under Russian citizenship. Engaging in commercial fishing also required the presence of a Russian settlement. But immediately, along with the above reasons, the Chicoya Valley acquires great importance in the development of arable farming. The exiled archpriest Avvakum testifies to this. Describing the peculiarities of natural conditions and the crops cultivated here, he wrote in his “Life”: “They plow a lot of grain, and in all the farms a pood is produced for twenty and thirty or more, and bread is sold for five altyns or less per pood: and They sowed Chinese wheat and barley, and they will be born.”
In the local “gardens” Spafari saw cucumbers, garlic, cabbage and all sorts of other garden crops. And this was in the first decade of the Russians’ arrival in Transbaikalia, where the local population was almost not engaged in arable farming!
Thus, even in the first years of the Russians’ stay in Transbaikalia, the cultivation of grain crops was rapidly developing here. Since the importation of bread from the Western regions of Siberia was associated with certain difficulties. Therefore, growing bread in Chikoy was of great importance in the Russian development of Transbaikalia, including the valley of the Chikoy River.
Noting the enormous cultural influence of the Russian people in Siberia, A. I. Herzen wrote in his famous “Bell”: “A handful of Cossacks and several hundred homeless men crossed at their own risk an ocean of ice and snow, and wherever tired groups settled in the frozen steppes, forgotten by nature, life began to boil, the fields were covered with fields and gardens, and this is from Perm to the Pacific Ocean.”
Therefore, it was not the exploits of the Cossacks and governors, but the many years of labor of the Russian arable peasant that turned Siberia into a flourishing land. By developing “new lands” in Chikoy, the Russian people found ways not only to transform this valley, but also to peaceful cooperation with the indigenous population of peoples, such as the Buryats remained on Chikoy. The guards of Red Chikoy remember that the place where the airfield is now was called the “brotherly garden.” Here, in the days of women, the Buryats lived next to the Russians and, along with cattle breeding, were engaged in arable farming. The name of the “brotherly garden” is significant: the word “brotherly” is derived from the word “brother”, and not “Buryat”. By introducing the Chikoya Buryats to agricultural work, the Russians saw them as brothers or brothers. Such unity arises only between working people, between people united by a common goal and destiny.
The Russians did not have to encounter Evenks or Tungus in Chikoy. But the fact that they lived within the boundaries of Chikoy is evidenced by the surviving names Etytei and Khilkotoy, which means border places. Probably these places were the border between the Evenki and Buryat tribes. This is evidenced by the legends that have been preserved among the people.
One of these legends says that peoples from the Chud tribe lived along Chikoy before the Russians. They lived primitively, in dugouts, and were engaged in hunting and fish farming. One day, shamans and elders noticed that a new white tree, a birch, began to grow in open areas. “It will be bad for our people,” the shamans said, “a white man will come and conquer us. He will force the spoils to be given to him, he will take possession of our wives...” And when they heard that this white man was really approaching with shooting fire and sticks, part of the tribe left Chikoy, not expecting the arrival of the Russians, and the rest, cutting down the supports in the dugouts, buried themselves alive with their families. Previously, when there was a steppe on Solontsy near Krasny Chikoy, you could actually see the likes of collapsed dugouts, and large stones on them.
Initially, the Buryats, as well as the Evenks, were distrustful of the arrival of the Russians. Many of them left Chikoy and went to Mongolia, falling under the yoke of the Mongols. Then we returned back to Chikoy. Here they accepted Russian citizenship and hunted. For this they were subject to tribute.
But the substitutionary introduction of the Burd to Russian culture went through the arable peasantry. The influence of the Buryats specifically on the arable peasantry is evidenced by the fact that in the Buryat spoken language there are many words borrowed from the Russian language related to agriculture.
At the same time, many words from the Buryat language entered the Russian language. This is especially true for the names of village areas. So, for example, Menza in the Buryat language means payment to the lama, bribe. Shergoljin is an ant, Zashulan is a summer pasture, Baykhor is to stay completely, Shebartuy is formidable, Albitui is subjects, tribute, Malkhan is livestock, Gutai is a narrow, deep valley, and so on.
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