Which watch caliber is better? What watch calibers are there? So what is this? Caliber of Russian artillery, aerial bombs, torpedoes and rockets

Designation of watch mechanisms and case design (indexing)

Designation (digital indexing) of watch mechanisms.

The designation of mechanisms is based on the caliber of the mechanism and its distinctive design features. Under caliber means: for a round mechanism - the mounting diameter of the platinum in millimeters; for a non-round one - the area of ​​the platinum reduced to the caliber of the round mechanism.

The given caliber is determined by calculation. It is equal to the seat diameter of such a round-shaped mechanism, the area of ​​which is equal to the area of ​​the defined non-circular (square, rectangular and barrel-shaped) mechanism.

The caliber of a non-circular mechanism is reduced to the caliber of a round mechanism using the formula

where D pp is the diameter reduced to the caliber of the round mechanism, mm;

S - area of ​​the platinum of a non-circular watch movement, mm 2 (a - length, mm; b - width, mm).

Depending on the caliber and distinctive design features, each standard watch movement is assigned a four-digit, five-digit or six-digit digital designation (cipher), which is indicated on the plate or bridge, developed by NIIchasprom.

For wrist and pocket watches, stopwatches and alarm clocks, the first two digits of the code indicate the caliber of the mechanism in millimeters, the rest - the design features of the mechanism. For table and wall clock mechanisms, the first two digits of a five-digit code or the first three digits of a six-digit code indicate the caliber of the mechanism in millimeters, the rest are the design features of the mechanism.

The distinctive design features of the mechanisms are indicated in the following intervals.

1. Mechanisms of wrist and pocket watches:

• mechanical balance with anchor escapement - from 00 to 35 and from 651 to 700;
• electronic-mechanical - from 36 to 70;
• electronic units for wrist and pocket watches - 49, 51 and from 350 to 400.

2. Stopwatch mechanisms- from 81 to 99 and from 601 to 650.

3. Mechanisms of alarm clocks, table clocks, wall clocks and grandfather clocks:

• balance alarm clocks with anchor release - from 71 to 80 and from 500 to 600;
• wall pendulum with a weight motor and daily winding - from 100 to 120;
• table and wall pendulum and balance with weekly winding - from 121 to 150;
• the same, with a 2-week winding - from 151 to 180;
• electronic-mechanical - from 38 to 43 and from 181 to 300;
• electronic units - 195, 201 and from 801 to 850.

For example, a 26 mm caliber movement with a central second hand, shockproof device and calendar is designated 2614, where the numbers 26 are caliber, 14 are design features; movement of 55.8 mm caliber, balance, on ruby ​​stones, with a central signal hand, a signal bell device, a strike and stroke spring in the drums, a winding frequency of one day (small-sized alarm clock) is designated 5671, where the numbers 56 are caliber, 71 are design features .

Digital designations (codes) of the distinctive design features of the mechanisms of wrist watches, pocket watches, alarm clocks, desktop, wall, floor, stopwatches and electronic watch units are indicated in the appendix (see section Study of customer demand, this publication).

It should, however, be borne in mind that if two mechanisms have the same distinctive design features, but are different in design, then the letter H, 1H, 2H, etc. is added to the code of the mechanism that was developed later in time on the right side. For example: 2609, 2609Н, 2609.1Н, etc.

Modernized watch movements are assigned a code in the following order.

If the modernization carried out violates the interchangeability of parts and components of the watch, but does not entail a change in the price of the watch, then the mechanism is assigned the code of the main mechanism, to which one of the following capital letters of the Russian alphabet is added on the right side: A, B, C, D, D, E , J, I, L, M.

If the upgraded mechanism differs from the main mechanism in the number of functional stones, then its cipher consists of the cipher of the main mechanism, to which the letter “K” and a number are added on the right side through a dot, indicating the number of functional stones different from the main design. For example, if the main mechanism is designated 2609, then the upgraded mechanism is designated 2609.K5.

If after modernization the accuracy of the movement of the mechanism changes, then the mechanism is assigned the code of the main mechanism, to which the following designations are added to the right through a dot: P - increased accuracy, or precision, 1 - first class, 2 - second class. For example, if the main mechanism of the 2nd class has the code 2609.1Н, then after modernization the mechanism became 1st class and received the designation 2609.1 Н.1.

If the upgraded mechanism differs from the main mechanism in the number of functional stones, as well as the accuracy of the movement, then it is assigned the code of the main mechanism, to which a sign indicating the accuracy of the movement of the mechanism, the letter “K” and a number indicating the number of functional stones other than main structure. For example, a 2nd class mechanism is designated 2609; after modernization, the mechanism became 1st class and five functional jewels were added to it, in this case its designation became 2609.1.K5.

Watch case design. It also has a code consisting of a seven-digit digital index.

The first three digits indicate the serial number of the structural type of the housing. The number is assigned in the order in which the housing designs were created, starting from 000 to 999.

The fourth digit indicates the material, type of coating and other types of finishing of the case (for wristwatches - case ring). The following designations have been established for the body material, type of coating and other types of body finishing (Table 2).

The fifth, sixth and seventh digits indicate the serial number of the dial group and hands. As the appearance of the dial or hands changes, the group designation changes. Assignment of designations to groups of dials and hands is carried out in the order of creation of varieties, starting from 000 to 999.

To designate the design types of cases, it is allowed to use a six-digit code, where the first two digits indicate the design type of the case, the third digit - the material, type of coating and other types of finish of the case (for wristwatches - case ring), the fourth, fifth and sixth digits - the dial group and shooter

To distinguish cases that are identical in design, but have different color coatings with gold alloys, the corresponding lowercase letter of the Russian alphabet is added to their digital index on the right side, indicating the color of the gold coating. So, for example, “P” is pink, “Zh” is yellow, etc.

The designation of mechanisms and case design is written as a fraction, where the numerator is the mechanism code, and the denominator is the case design code. For example, “Polyot” 2609/1123290 is a watch of the First Moscow Watch Factory with a 26 mm caliber movement, with a central second hand and a shock-proof device, with the 112th variant of the gilded case design, with the 290th variant of the dial group and hands; "Yantar" 6973/395057 - alarm clock of the Oryol watch factory with a 69 mm caliber movement, with an anchor pin escapement, on ruby ​​stones, with a central signal hand, a continuous bell signal, with springs without drums, with the 39th version of the design of the plastic case and the 57th variant of the dial and hands group; "Yantar" 118151/337038 - wall clock with 2-week winding from the Oryol Watch Factory, with a 118 mm caliber mechanism, pendulum, with a spring motor, return-hook escapement, striking every hour and half an hour, with springs in the drums, with 33 -a variant of the structural type of the case made of wood, with the 38th variant of the dial group and hands.

Uniform names of watches, a system of marking mechanisms and case designs are convenient for conducting trade operations and organizing maintenance with spare parts for watch repairs.

14/08/2011

Just five years ago, companies producing their own movements in-house could be counted on one hand...

Just five years ago, companies producing their own mechanisms in-house could be counted on one hand. But recently, more and more new brands are announcing the launch of their own in-house caliber, which not only raises the prestige of the models equipped with it, but also significantly increases their price. Our experts found out what to expect when purchasing a watch with a new in-house caliber.

As you know, forcing Swiss manufacturers to “get off the ETA needle” and start producing their own in-house calibers was the dream of Swatch Group founder Nicolas Hayek. And this dream is gradually beginning to come true, either thanks to the numerous threats of an embargo on ETA supplies, or because of the growing sophistication of customers who, despite the crises, are ready to spend more money on watches - but also want to get more moral satisfaction for this money.
The owners and managers of newly opened manufactories unanimously assert that their own production is an investment in the future, which will allow the company to exist regardless of industry fluctuations (it’s strange to hear these words after 1969), and will also allow (also someday in the future) reduce the cost of hours, since you won’t have to pay contractors. True, for now, in-house calibers, and especially those recently put into production, cost us more, if only because building our own manufactory is a huge expense, and they need to be compensated somehow.
However, manufacturers are not lying when they say that in-house calibers are an investment. Including for buyers. Why is this phrase so pleasing to the ear? First of all, because watches equipped with such a “motor” acquire an aura of collectible value and uniqueness, so revered by fans of Swiss mechanics. In principle, the owner of a watch of a well-known brand, inside of which a “home” mechanism is installed, can fully expect that his chronometer will at least not lose, and perhaps even increase in price over the years. True, for this a number of conditions must be met.
Of course, the accuracy and reliability characteristics of the mechanism must meet modern standards. It is desirable that such a caliber even stands out in some way: if not by superior technical parameters, then at least by design features. And we must not forget the main rule of watch mechanics: a good in-house caliber is, first of all, a well-processed and beautifully engraved caliber.
It was by these criteria that the attractiveness of the test watch was assessed, and attention was also paid to the appearance and characteristics of the case. After all, a worthy mechanism requires no less careful framing in order to ensure a long history.

Two years ago, the couple Peter and Aletta Stas completed the construction of a modern watch manufactory in Planlaise-Watt near Geneva, which allowed them to equip both of their watch brands: Frederique Constant and Alpina, with their own movements. Among the latter's assortment, the in-house caliber AL950 immediately attracts attention - the “successor” of the famous AL582 caliber, which Alpina produced from 1945 to 1970.

This mechanism is distinguished by the recognizable narrow winding sector in the shape of a horseshoe (developed in the mid-twentieth century for Alpina by the Geneva atelier Straub&Co), as well as the layout of the regulator indication: the hour hand is located at “10 o’clock”, and the dial calendar is located at “6 o’clock”.

The movement is equipped with a Nivarox hairspring, rhodium-plated bridges and plates with Geneva waves engraving and blued screws. All models that feature the AL950 are available with a sapphire caseback.

Ref:AL-950LBB4AE6
Frame: 46 mm, steel, sapphire crystal and case back, WR 200 meters, rubber strap
Mechanism: automatic AL950, balance frequency 28,800 vph, power reserve 42 hours, blued screws, hand-engraved “Geneva waves”
Max. daily cycle*: 5.0 sec/day
Min. balance amplitude*: 320o
4.0/7.0 sec/day
Price: RUB 124,080
Where can I buy: salon "Time Avenue", pl. Kievsky Station, 1 (European shopping center)

Dmitry Gurzhiy:
“The designers managed to perfectly play with the black and white style: contrasting, but at the same time modest. This is just the type of watch that you don’t have to hide under your cuff without risking being accused of kitsch.”

Breitling Chronomat B01

The celebration of Breitling's 125th anniversary in 2009 became an epoch-making event in the company's history - after all, it was then that the premiere of the Chronomat 01 chronograph with the in-house Caliber B01 movement, produced at the Breitling Chronometrie factory in La Chaux-de-Fonds, took place at the Basel exhibition.

Caliber B01 was developed over a period of 5 years and features a patented start, stop and reset system, a column wheel and a patented date adjustment system using a separate pusher not connected to the crown. Finally, the movement has a serious power reserve of up to 70 hours and is a COSC certified chronometer.

Needless to say, the Chronomat 01 case, which houses the new movement, is also impressive: the screw-down crown, protected pushers, sapphire crystal and screw-on caseback provide water resistance of up to 500 meters, the case is equipped with a relief bezel of unidirectional rotation.

Ref:AB011011 C789
Frame: 43.5 mm steel, sapphire crystal, unidirectional rotating bezel, screw-down crown, WR 500 meters
Mechanism: automatic chronograph B01, frequency 28,800 vph, power reserve 70 hours
Max. daily cycle*: 10.0 sec/day
Min. balance amplitude*: 271o
Isochronous/positional error*: 9.0/8.0 sec/day
Price: RUB 299,900
Where can I buy: Breitling representative office, st. Butyrsky Val, 68/70, building 1

Mikhail Goncharov:
“The dial is well optimized; among all, it is the most informative, but not too “crowded” with scales, and the spherical glass visually increases the display.”

In 2008, Carl F. Bucherer released its first in-house caliber, the CFB A1000. The automatic winding sector of this mechanism is made in the form of a thin half-ring sliding along its outer circumference - such a sector does not cover the surface of the bridges.

The reliability and accuracy of the new caliber are ensured by two patented innovations: the DSA (Dynamic Shock Absorption) system and the CDAS (Central Dual Adjusting System), which ensures that the settings remain unchanged. Another achievement of the manufacture is the design of a large date display.

On the night from the 31st to the 1st, only the disk with the first digit of the date rotates, the disk with the second digit remains in place. A year after its premiere, the caliber received its first practical modification (a day of the week indicator was added to the large date) and its own recognizable appearance: a specially created EvoTech case in the shape of a “pillow.”

Ref: 00.10625.03.33.01
Frame: 43.75 x 44.5 mm, steel, rubber-coated bezel, sapphire crystal and case back, WR 50 meters, leather strap
Mechanism: automatic A1001, frequency 21,600 vph, power reserve 55 hours, peripheral winding sector, bridges and plates decorated with “Geneva waves”
Max. daily cycle*: 10.0 sec/day
Min. balance amplitude*: 270o
Isochronous/positional error*: 14.0/12.0 sec/day
Price: 14,225 CHF
Where can I buy: Sublime boutique, Krasnaya sq., 3 (TD GUM)

Andrey Babanin:
“The caliber is tastefully decorated, the quality of workmanship is high, the original system for precise adjustment of the glucose balance is interesting, the automatic winding sector is very sensitive.”

Our experts:

Mikhail Goncharov, collector

Alpina Adventure Manufacture Regulateur

I have no complaints about the mechanism itself: it is interesting, non-standard, high-quality and based on historical heritage. It’s just strange that it was installed in a variety of Alpina series. Such a regulator, for example, looks appropriate in a “club” watch, but does not go well with the Adventure sports model. After all, it is impossible to detect and measure anything on this dial. And again, for a massive case with high water resistance, the strap is rather weak, and the clip is not very convenient for active use. Also, in my opinion, the design of the dial and the simple flat glass look somewhat outdated; you can expect more from a product from a modern manufactory.
GRADE: 5 points

Breitling Chronomat B01

This is where we see the spherical glass, which visually adds volume to the dial. In principle, launching its own chronograph caliber is a very successful step by Breitling; this is what everyone has been waiting for from the company for a long time, while the technical characteristics of the mechanism correspond to the image of the brand. And the design of the Chronomat was well thought out: the dial is optimized, not so “crowded” with scales, the size is convenient, the strap is very reliable, and there is a proprietary clasp. Of all the models, this has the highest water resistance. I don’t like that Chronomat doesn’t have a fundamentally new design that would emphasize the presence of its own caliber, and that all the models in the line are of the same type, but this is rather a subjective flaw.
GRADE: 8 points

Carl F. Bucherer Patravi EvoTec Day Date

The idea of ​​a peripheral rotor is very interesting in itself, and the mechanism is made at a high level. It also adds points that the company very quickly launched serial production of various variations of complications of the new caliber. Another plus: a completely new case was created specifically for the new mechanism. And in general, I would give the designers a separate high mark, for example, for the way they moved the indication of the large date and day of the week to the left sector of the dial, clearing up the space. A significant disadvantage is the price. For a steel case watch from a recently founded brand, actually a “startup”, it is quite high.
GRADE: 8 points

Dmitry Gurji, founder and creative director of the Gourji brand

Alpina Adventure Manufacture Regulateur

The designers of this model definitely succeeded in the dial: it is minimalistic, thoughtful in both contrast and color scheme, and also convenient and readable. And the large diameter is appropriate here, it is combined with the general idea and the quasi-vintage mechanism. This is exactly the type of watch that you don’t have to hide under your cuff without risking being accused of kitsch and bad taste. Although I think that the designers went a little overboard with the finishing (there is a slight crowding of the dial and an extra guilloche). So the overall impression is that this is an attractive and professionally made watch that lacks a little charisma.
GRADE: 8 points

Breitling Chronomat B01

In this model, on the contrary, everything is in order with both charisma and brand identity. Every stroke confirms that this is a Breitling design, so the target group of this watch is completely clear. But I would like to ask: was it possible to come up with something newer in terms of design for the new caliber? In addition, here we see two typical Breitling features: a massive case and small counters. Although, we must pay tribute, the dial is easy to read. Lastly, I would really like to see a new mechanism. And the fact that the back cover is solid may help protect the case, but it reduces aesthetic pleasure.
GRADE:9 points

Carl F. Bucherer Patravi EvoTec Day Date

The undoubted artistic merit of this watch is that the designers decided to take such a bold step as to come up with a new original shape of the case, to move away from the classic “circle”. And, by the way, the case and dial turned out to be a successful combination of beauty and practicality. It seems that Carl F. Bucherer stopped literally half a step away from creating a real “cult” model, what is called iconic. For this, the watch clearly lacks a “zest”, some kind of effect that would immediately give the collection recognition and individuality.
GRADE: 8 points

Andrey Babanin, watchmaker, restorer, director of the Tochniy Mod service center

Alpina Adventure Manufacture Regulateur

Here we see a well-readable dial with signature triangles repeated on the crown and screws (slots in the form of triangles). The latter provides protection from unqualified service. The head is comfortable and has side protection. The belt buckle with buttons has a high-quality and reliable design. The balance in the mechanism is located on two supports, which gives greater stability to the watch during operation. The date is set by the head, so there are no extra buttons on the case, this gives additional confidence in water resistance.
GRADE: 8 points

Breitling Chronomat B01

The welt on this watch is not very convenient to use: the corners are sharp and there is nothing to catch on. I wonder how convenient it is to use underwater, considering that water resistance up to 500 meters implies this? The crown is threaded, the footer has an internal thread, which, as practice shows, is less reliable than the more common external thread, and the chronograph buttons are quite tight. Advantages: a convenient, reliable belt clip, the markings of the chronograph allow it to be used for its intended purpose, the dial is readable, the buttons are screwed in, the crown has side protection, opening the watch requires special equipment, which can protect against unqualified repairs.
GRADE:7 points

Carl F. Bucherer Patravi EvoTec Day Date

The main advantage of the model: a well-readable dial. Because of the skeletal hands, the large date, which is already clearly visible, is easy to read even when covered by the minute hand. Adjusting the calendar is also convenient, the caliber is quite well and tastefully decorated, the quality of processing is excellent, the original system of fine adjustment of the balance is interesting, the rim of the latter is made of glucidur, the automatic winding sector is very sensitive. The convenient belt clip is also worth mentioning. Perhaps the only drawback of this watch is that with a screw-down crown and the absence of extra buttons, the case has very modest water resistance.
GRADE: 9 points

An automatic movement is a watch movement that receives its energy from the movements of the wrist.

WHAT IS AN AUTOMATIC MECHANISM?

An automatic movement is a watch movement that receives its energy from the movements of the wrist. The rotor, which is a metal half-disk, rotates freely around its axis, transferring energy to the mainspring with each movement. A watch with such a mechanism does not need to be wound if it is worn every day. The watch is regulated by a balance that vibrates 6-8 times per second. The automatic movement has more than 70 parts, and in the case of the Caliber 360 movement - more than 230. The mechanical caliber is slightly inferior in accuracy to the quartz movement (the error reaches several minutes per month), but it embodies traditional Swiss watchmaking craftsmanship.

TAG HEUER AUTOMATIC MOVEMENTS

All TAG Heuer automatic movements are manufactured in Switzerland to the strictest precision criteria. Their high balance frequency guarantees excellent precision. Many TAG Heuer automatic movements are certified by the Official Swiss Office of Chronometer Control (C.O.S.C.), the best confirmation of the precision and reliability of the movement.

POWER RESERVE

We know you live a busy life, so we thought of ways to make sure your watch lasts as long as possible without winding. The power reserve of TAG Heuer automatic movements ranges from 42 to 48 hours, depending on the model. This means that when fully wound, the watch will run for almost two days without additional winding. You can also wind the watch manually. To do this, unscrew the crown and carefully pull it out to position 1. Note: once winding is completed, the crown must be returned to its original position and screwed down (position 0).

CARE OF YOUR WATCH

Our watches are designed to last continuously, but the automatic movement requires regular maintenance to keep it in top functional condition. With proper care, the watch will work smoothly and can serve owners for several generations. TAG Heuer recommends having your watch serviced every two years (in addition to the annual water resistance test). If your watch has been serviced by an authorized TAG Heuer service center, its warranty will be extended by one year.

WATCH WITH A BELT MECHANISM – mobile_title_border

The patented belt transmission is a highly efficient mechanism of five miniature timing belts mounted in series, the tension of which is controlled by two turnbuckles.

KEY INVENTION

In 2009, TAG Heuer revolutionized the watch industry with the introduction of the world's first belt-driven watch movement. It features two radical innovations for the first time in the watch industry. 1. The transmission hubs of the classic watch movement are replaced by a series of five timing belts. 2. A fundamentally new design at the intersection of watchmaking and auto racing technologies has outlined a new path for the development of watchmaking. Instead of a rotating rotor, the mechanism has a linear rotor that moves up and down along cylinders, its V-shaped arrangement reminiscent of the cylinders of a sports car engine.

REVOLUTIONARY BELT TRANSMISSION

The patented belt transmission is a highly efficient mechanism of five miniature timing belts mounted in series, the tension of which is controlled by two turnbuckles. Thermoplastic elastomer belts are 0.07mm thick - 10 times thinner than any belt ever produced.

A NEW APPROACH TO PLANT AND ENERGY STORAGE SYSTEM DESIGN

The second patent was issued for an innovative linear rotor, which replaced the classic oscillating segment. Mounted on the world's smallest bearings, a tungsten block weighing 12 grams reciprocates along two pairs of V-shaped winding barrels (hence the designation V4 in the name of the watch). The drums are placed at an angle of +/- 13 degrees, similar to the cylinders of a racing car engine.

EXTRAORDINARY DESIGN

The modern Monaco V4 watch combines tradition and modernity. With its square shape and automatic chronograph, the Monaco V4 pays homage to the historical watches of Monaco, while its innovative, highly complex design, clearly visible through the sapphire crystals on the front and back of the case, elegantly demonstrates the progress of watchmaking.

ELECTROMECHANICAL MECHANISM - mobile_title_border

Caliber S implements a fundamentally new approach to time measurement and display - using synchronized bidirectional drives, mechanically independent of each other.

CALIBRE S MOVEMENT: AN AMAZING INNOVATION:

TAG Heuer always has its own way of looking at things. In this sense, Caliber S gives an idea of ​​how the avant-garde brand sees the next generation of watches. Caliber S implements a fundamentally new approach to time measurement and display - using synchronized bidirectional drives, mechanically independent of each other. Precise, practical and elegant, this movement combines the meticulousness of quartz technology with the sophistication and complexity of watch mechanics. Caliber S gave birth to a new generation of analog watches - complex, beautiful, consisting of more than 250 parts.

REVOLUTIONARY DISPLAY

TAG Heuer always moves its own way. The idea for this revolutionary development was inspired by the control devices of sports cars. It uses similar bidirectional microdrives and counters with a 160° scan. The counters are located at the “4:30” and “7:30” positions and provide a range of indications: from perpetual calendar data to hundredths of a second.

RELIABLE REVOLUTION

We don’t just invent new things, we test our inventions again and again, because we want to be sure that our stereotype-breaking findings will not destroy the hope placed on them. This revolutionary development from TAG Heuer took a lot of effort to reduce the weight of parts and materials, achieve the highest precision and guarantee a perfect moment of inertia. Caliber S has undergone 12,000 hours of testing, including simulated acceleration and impact, as well as exposure to extreme temperatures. The path to success was long and difficult, but TAG Heuer went through it entirely, not wanting to compromise on quality and precision. Today Caliber S is installed in watches of the Aquaracer and Link series. The central hands show the time measured by the chronograph (hours, minutes and seconds). Two counters show the date in watch mode, and hundredths of a second in chronograph mode.

It's time to get acquainted with the factory, whose contribution to the development of the Swiss watch industry can hardly be overestimated and which to this day remains a leading supplier of movements for a wide range of its clients. Of course, we are talking about ETA SA Manufacture Horlogère Suisse, located in the town of Grenchen, which lies at the foot of the Jura Mountains.

The history of ETA is inextricably linked with the history of the movement factory “Dr. Girard & Schild", founded in 1856 and renamed Eterna in 1905. And already in 1932, Eterna was forced to separate watch production and movement production, the latter of which received the abbreviation ETA. The division was necessary for ETA to join the Ébauches SA holding, which was founded in 1926 by the three largest movement factories: A. Schild SA (ASSA), Fabrique d'horlogerie de Fontainemelon (FHF), and A. Michel SA (AM ).

In 1930 and 1931, respectively, the SSIH group of companies (Louis Brandt, Omega and Tissot, a little later Lemania) and the ASUAG group (Allgemeine Schweizerische Uhrenindustrie AG) were founded, the latter of which included the divisions for the production of watch components FAR and FBR. Ultimately, the ETA factory became part of the super-holding ASUAG/Ébauches SA, which sheltered under its wing almost all Swiss movement manufacturers, including such names as FHF, Fleurier, Unitas, Peseux, Valjoux, Venus and many others.

Finally, in the face of the quartz crisis that hit the Swiss watch industry in the 70s, SSIH and ASUAG decided to merge in 1983. The sad result of this merger was the transition of all small but original brands, their heritage and unique developments, under the wing of ETA.

And already in 1985, Nicolas G. Hayek bought out 51% of the share of the ASUAG-SIHH association and created the Swiss Corporation for Microelectronics and Watchmaking Industries Ltd. (SMH), much better known to all watch lovers as Swatch Group (SG) after the name it acquired in 1997.

In all this historical background, one interesting detail remains undisclosed - why the official ETA website considers the founding year to be 1793, and not 1856, as one might logically assume. It turns out that in 1793, the oldest of the factories absorbed by ETA in 1983, the Fabrique d’horlogerie de Fontainemelon (FHF), was founded.

Well, now let’s move directly to the factory’s products. When it comes to ETA's most iconic movements, it might be logical to start with the manual-winding calibers (ETA 7001, 6497-2, 6498-2) and then move on to the automatic calibers (ETA 2824-2, 2892A2, 7750, Valgranges ).

ETA 7001 Peseux

Caliber – 10½ lines or 23.3 mm
h = 2.5 mm
Number of stones – 17

Power reserve – 44 hours
Functions: hours-minutes-seconds (small dial at 6 o'clock)

Small in diameter, quite thin, but very reliable and accurate movement, developed by the Peseux factory in 1971. After its takeover, ETA was put on the conveyor virtually unchanged under the designation ETA 7001.

Popular with small-scale Swiss and German manufacturers, the movement in particular became the basis for a number of hand-wound NOMOS calibers. You can also recall the fact that in the URWERK 103 model this mechanism appeared as a base one.

ETA 6497-2/6498-2 Unitas

Caliber – 16½ lines or 36.6 mm
h = 4.5 mm
Number of stones – 17
Balance frequency – 21’600 vph (3 Hz)
Power reserve – 46 hours
Functions: hours-minutes-seconds (small dial)

In contrast to the small ETA 7001, which is more suitable for small-sized watches, the calibers presented by the Unitas factory in the early 50s of the last century as 6497/6498 (with a balance frequency of 18,000 vph) look more appropriate in large-diameter cases. If you take a closer look, the technical layout features of Peseux 7001 and Unitas 6497/6498 are very similar, which is the key to their reliable operation.

The main difference between the versions is that 6497 is a Lépine-type caliber (the crown is located at 12 o'clock with a standard small seconds position at 6 o'clock), and 6498 is a Savonette-type caliber, which implies a more common winding placement for wristwatches crowns at the 3 o'clock position (with the same position of the small seconds subdial at 6 o'clock).

The most modern versions 6497-2 and 6498-2, compared to their predecessors, have an increased balance frequency and Incabloc shock protection.

ETA 2824-2

h = 4.6 mm
Number of stones – 25

Power reserve – 38…40 h

Caliber 2824-2 has been in the production range of the ETA factory since 1982, while its direct predecessor, designated 2824, was developed back in 1961 (balance frequency - 18,000 vph) and has its roots in the basic design of the Eterna caliber 1429 /1439U.

There are four gradations of the 2824-2 movements according to the ETA classification: Standard, Elaboré, Top and Chronomètre (the latter version is chronometrically accurate according to COSC requirements).

Currently, based on 2824-2, there are several mechanisms with slight differences in parameters or functions:
2826-2 – date display of increased size due to a two-layer design, in which the lower disk is marked with numbers from 1 to 16, and the upper one bears the designation 17-31 and has a window for the lower disk, the thickness has increased to 6.2 mm
2836-2 – added disk with day of week indication, thickness – 5.05 mm
2834-2 – the “day of the week” function is implemented using an external disk; with a thickness of 5.05 mm, the caliber diameter has increased to 13 lines or 29 mm

Analogue mechanism from other manufacturers: Sellita SW200

ETA 2892A2

Caliber – 11½ lines or 25.6 mm
h = 3.6 mm
Number of stones – 21
Balance frequency – 28’800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve – 42 hours
Functions: hours-minutes-seconds-date

Similar in function and size to caliber 2824-2, but thinner (by 1 mm) and with a number of design improvements, which allows it to be positioned in a higher class. It has been in production since 1999, while its direct predecessor, the 2892 movement, was released in 1975 and has common roots with the Eterna-Matic 3000 caliber.

There are three versions of caliber 2892A2: Elaboré, Top and Chronomètre.

The current production line contains several mechanisms based on 2892A2, namely:
2893-1/2893-2/2893-3 – family of calibers with 24-hour indication (world time or GMT), height – 4.1 mm
2895-2 – version with small seconds indicator at 6 o’clock, thickness – 4.35 mm
2896 – version with a large date indicator at 3 o’clock, thickness – 4.85 mm
2897 – version with power reserve indicator (7 o’clock position, thickness – 4.85 mm)
2894-2 is a chronograph with a modular design; due to the module, the diameter has increased to 12.5 lines or 28 mm, and the thickness is 6.1 mm

Basic caliber analogues: Sellita SW300, Soprod A10

ETA 7750 Valjoux

Caliber – 13 ¼ lines or 30 mm
h = 7.9 mm
Number of stones – 25
Balance frequency – 28’800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve – 44 hours
Functions: hours-minutes-seconds-date-day-chronograph

Developed in 1973 (for the first time in the industry using computer technology) as an automatic version of the Valjoux caliber 7733, which has a pedigree from the Venus 188 chronograph (in 1966 the Venus factory became part of Valjoux). One of the most popular chronograph movements in the world due to its reliability, accuracy and relatively low cost.

Offered by the manufacturer in Elaboré, Top and Chronomètre versions.

The chronograph assembly uses a swing-tribe engagement pattern, and the functions (start-stop-reset) are controlled by a 3-cam system.

Among the many variations of the 7750 developed over its long history, the following are currently in production:
7751 – chronograph with additional 24-hour hand, full calendar with date indicator and moon phase display
7753 is a chronograph version in which the minute display has moved from 12 o'clock to 3 o'clock.
7754 – chronograph with 24-hour time display in a second time zone (GMT)

The most famous analogue of the mechanism is the Sellita SW500.

ETA Valgranges family of movements

Since 2004, a new product has entered the market of automatic movements - a family that has received the general designation Valgranges (from “Granges”, the French name Grenchen). The mechanisms combine a common size (diameter 16½ lines or 36.6 mm with a thickness of 7.9 mm), a 2-day power reserve (48 hours) and a basic layout represented by the ETA 7750 Valjoux caliber.

Four types of calibers are included in the publicly available versions:
A07.111 – caliber with hours, minutes, seconds and date indication

A07.161 – caliber with indication of hours, minutes, seconds, date and power reserve (at 6 o’clock position)
A07.171 – caliber with indication of hours, minutes, seconds, date and 24-hour time display in a second time zone (GMT)

A07.211/A07.221/A07.231 – caliber with integral chronograph

In addition, there are exclusive versions of the ETA Valgranges calibers, supplied exclusively to brands that are part of the Swatch Group, such as Longines. In this case, the calibers are marked with the letter L in the movement designation: A07.L11 (Longines L697), A07.L21 (Longines L698), A07.L31 (Longines L707).

The chronograph caliber A08.L01 (originally A08.231), redesigned to control the chronograph functions via a column wheel and known as the Longines L688, deserves special mention. This is the first official version of the 7750 Valjoux column wheel layout made by ETA; until now, such modifications were only carried out by third-party factories that bought rough movements in Grenchen (for example, La Joux-Perret).

Of course, the ETA factory is a full-cycle manufactory, which means it has the necessary equipment and qualifications to produce all the necessary parts for its mechanisms. Perhaps only the spirals and springs supplied by the Swatch Group-adjacent factory Nivarox-FAR are one of the few third-party components.

It should be noted that in 2002, SG management decided to reduce the supply of finished calibers to customers outside the group and completely stop the supply of rough calibers (ébauche), which caused outrage among many manufacturers who do not have in-house calibers. Ultimately, the regulator (Comco or Swiss Competition Commission) ordered ETA to reduce shipments at a slower pace than SG management desired.

In any case, ETA remains one of the most powerful manufactories in the global watch industry and is capable of solving the most serious problems aimed at the benefit of the Swatch Group in particular and the entire watch industry in general.