The strawberry leaves are covered with a sticky brown coating. Strawberry pests and diseases: description and control methods. Northern root-knot nematode

Strawberries are an extremely popular berry in our country. This is one of the reasons why we wait until summer to enjoy this natural dessert. There are many ways to use it: you can use it as a filling for sweet dishes, prepare yoghurts, juices and jams, freeze for long-term storage or simply eat in its original form. However, there is always a risk of being left without a harvest.

There can be many reasons. Temperature changes, high humidity or aridity, poor soil. But the most terrible threat to strawberries are various diseases and pests. Many varieties are resistant to various ailments and have increased immunity. But this advantage does not completely eliminate the risk of infection.

Causes of diseases

To understand what ailment is tormenting growing strawberries, you need to be able to recognize its signs. Once you identify the threat, you can figure out how to properly deal with it. First you need to identify the main signs that indicate that your garden strawberries are unhealthy.

1. Wilting leaves– the crop probably lacks moisture. Another problem may be infection with verticillium wilt or an invasion of pests that feed on the roots (for example, mole crickets).
2. Drying leaves– it is obvious that the crop has been affected by a harmful fungus, for example, gray rot or powdery mildew.
3. Yellowing of leaves– the strawberry has become ill with chlorosis or is being tormented by strawberry mites. This often happens when there is a lack of nitrogen and magnesium in the soil.
4. The leaves are curling– again, this is one of the symptoms of powdery mildew. It could also be caused by an attack by aphids or spider mites. The same thing happens if you exceed the volume of chemical treatments. Or the plant suffers from lack of moisture.
5. The fruits are rotting– the moisture level is increased. Or the plantings are too dense, causing lack of ventilation. However, the cause may be more terrible - root, black or gray rot.
6. The appearance of spots on leaf plates- another sign of fungal diseases. Although the problem may be a lack of nitrogen or increased acidity of the soil.
7. Flowering does not begin– there can be many reasons. Perhaps the planting dates have been delayed or the hot weather has persisted for a long time. If the bush has a large amount of greenery, it means it is oversaturated with nitrogen. Or there are too many weeds growing near the strawberries, which prevent them from developing properly.

However, there are many more problems and their causes. Let's take a closer look at the diseases and symptoms that threaten strawberries, and at the same time outline ways to combat each of them.

About diseases and control measures

Verticillium wilt

Verticillium wilt is a fungal disease that affects the blood vessels of plants. The root system, its neck and rosettes come under attack. The bush begins to fade quickly. The disease can be recognized by the changed color of the leaves. They acquire a red-yellow or dark brown tint. New healthy leaves do not grow. Dark spots and stripes appear on the antennae and petioles.

The fungus that spreads the disease lives in the soil for several years. It can attack vegetables, other plants and even weeds. As a result of exposure to the infection, more than half of the entire crop perishes. If the soil is sandy, the infected crop dies much faster. Just one week is enough.

To avoid contamination of strawberries, you need to choose varieties that are immune to this disease. Treat seeds before planting and maintain crop rotation. It is not recommended to plant strawberries in areas where tomatoes, potatoes or peppers previously grew.

If you notice signs of disease on some bushes, they should be destroyed immediately before the infection spreads to neighboring bushes.

Late blight

Late blight is another fungal disease whose propagators reproduce using zoospores. The most common infection. It affects many different plants, wild and cultivated. Often, spores enter the soil and infect the roots, but they can also affect the above-ground parts of plants. The infection is most active in the last months of summer, especially if they are rainy.

Strawberry bushes, as a rule, are located at a short distance from each other, which is why the disease quickly migrates from one bush to another. In a short time, roots, leaves and petioles become infected. The harvest is rapidly dying. The disease can be identified by brown spots of rotting on the surface of the leaves. And if the fruits have already formed by the time of infection, they will have the hardest time. Brown spots will appear on them, the flesh will become bitter and hard.

Fungal spores usually overwinter on the remains of last year's plants. As a result of the impact of the disease, the entire crop may die.

To prevent this from happening, you need to treat strawberries with preparations containing copper and Bordeaux mixture. You also need to follow the rules of planting and crop rotation. Don’t forget to get rid of infected bushes and water the plants on time.

Fusarium

Fusarium is a fungus that affects many plants, crops and even trees. Unlike late blight, it develops in hot and dry weather. A real headache for gardeners, since it is mainly vegetables that suffer from the disease. But it doesn’t ignore strawberries either.

The disease can be recognized by brown spots on the leaves of the crop and the brown color of the shoots and petioles. Over time, the leaves dry out and curl.

The entire bush dies within one month if urgent measures are not taken.

Infected plants must be sprayed with Benorad, Fundazol and Chorus. If the disease has taken over, you need to completely remove all the bushes and burn them, and treat the infected area with Nitrafen. It will take at least five years before strawberries can be planted in the same place.

Biological fungicides are suitable for the prevention of fusarium. Spraying is recommended once every two weeks. The same preparations are used to treat seedlings before planting. The risk of disease will be much lower if you choose resistant varieties - Sonata, Alice, Christine, Omskaya Early, Boheme, Capri or Flamenco.

Gray rot

Gray mold is a disease that can compete in prevalence with late blight. The fungus infects the roots of the plant and then spreads to other parts of the plant. First, the leaves and fruits begin to die, then rotting begins, the plant withers and dies.

The disease spores are located in the soil, where they infect roots or seeds. The affected strawberry bush becomes watery and then begins to dry out. At the same time, he himself becomes a source of infection. The disease can be identified by brown spots on the fruits, which over time turn into a gray coating.

The disease spreads when there is high humidity, especially if the plantings are too dense. Spores are transmitted both through moisture and air. Sometimes they are carried around the site by various insects.

If you find signs of gray rot on some bushes, get rid of these bushes immediately. Treat the remaining ones with fungicides (Switch or Alirin-B). And to reduce the risk of disease, plant strawberries in well-ventilated areas, maintaining optimal distances between bushes. Also, do not overfeed the crop with nitrogen so that the green mass does not become too thick.

spotting

Spot is a fungal disease that manifests itself in different forms and can greatly harm the plant. The most common types of spotting: brown, white, brown.

Brown spot

It begins to develop in early spring, and attacks in full force in July. Can be identified by spots growing on the leaves. They are reddish in color with brown fuzzy edges. The movement of sap inside the plant is disrupted and it dies. The disease can affect not only the current, but also the next harvest.

The infection spreads best in warm and humid weather.

Fungicides Sweet and Falcon will help cope with the disease. For prevention, spray strawberries with Bordeaux mixture, and also do not forget to prune and remove weeds in autumn and spring.

White spot

Develops during flowering or fruit ripening. If let loose, it can destroy the entire crop. The disease can be identified by spots one centimeter in diameter. The color is light, the edges are brown or purple, and they are located on the top of the bush. The affected leaves usually fall off, and the bush itself falls to the ground.

This spotting spreads when there is high humidity. For example, if it has been too rainy, if there is heavy dew in this area, or you water the strawberries too often. Excess organic fertilizers also have an effect.

Fungicides Ridomil, Switch and Topaz are used for treatment. For prevention, strawberries are sprayed with preparations containing copper. In addition, it is necessary to timely feed the crop with potassium and phosphorus.

Brown spot

Also known as angular. This type of spotting received its second name for its peculiar form of manifestation. Gray-brown spots form on the leaves, which stretch along the central vein and have an angular shape.

The disease also affects you in a special way. It not only destroys the leaves, but also reduces the plant’s resistance, making it unable to withstand the cold winter.

If a disease occurs, infected bushes must be removed immediately, and the remaining ones must be treated with Fitosporin and transplanted to a new location. It is better not to plant anything in this area for five years that is not immune to spotting. And don’t forget about spring prevention, namely spraying the crop with fungicides and Bordeaux mixture.

Powdery mildew

A dangerous fungus that spreads quickly through the air. It is also capable of “travelling” using water or being carried on foreign objects.

When the disease occurs, the plant becomes covered with a white coating, which greatly slows down photosynthesis, causing the bush to die. At first, this coating is barely noticeable; it appears on the lower part of the leaves. It then spreads throughout the shoots. Plant growth stops, leaves dry out and curl.

If the berries have ripened by this time, they will have a distorted shape and a nasty taste. A favorable condition for the development of the disease is high air humidity. But moisture in the soil is also an advantage for it.

Therefore, it is better to plant strawberries in high beds. For prevention, bushes can be sprayed with a soap-copper solution.

Rhizoctoniosis

More commonly known as root rot. The spores of this fungus travel in the same ways as in the case of powdery mildew. The risk of infection is highest if the plant is damaged.

Unfortunately, the disease is difficult to define. Signs on the aerial part appear only in the later stages. First, the roots turn black and become slimy, and then begin to dry out. Then the infection moves to the upper part.

Since the disease cannot be detected in time, it is almost impossible to cure it. Infected bushes must be removed, and the soil under them should be watered with Bordeaux mixture or a copper preparation.

It is recommended to carry out active preventive work. Before planting strawberries, treat the seedlings with a solution of Previkura or Fitosporin. Remember to follow proper care instructions and try to avoid overwatering.

Anthracnose

A disease that actively develops when there is a lack of nutrients or damage. Fungal spores are carried by wind, moisture or insects.

The disease appears as reddish spots on the leaves. They gradually grow, merge with each other and form ulcers. Cracked wounds ooze pink-yellow fluid. With extensive infection, the bush dries out, becomes brittle and dies. The disease can also be recognized by brown depressed spots on the berries.

To combat the disease, the drugs “Fundazol” or “Skor” are used. The varieties Pegan, Idea, Daver and Pelican are least susceptible to anthracnose.

Leaf rust

The name speaks for itself. Orange, red or brown spots appear on strawberry leaves. In this case, the affected areas swell slightly. Over time, the spots grow and merge with each other, covering the main part of the leaf. Over time, the leaves dry out and fall off. At the same time, the bush weakens and the process of chlorophyll production weakens.

The most susceptible to infection are those strawberries that have been growing in the same place for more than five years. The shadow covering the bushes may also be to blame. Another reason is weeds that spread infection.

The soil may be too poor or suffer from too much nitrogen.

To avoid infection with leaf rust, it is worth planting strawberries away from fruit trees. And control the development of the bushes so that they do not grow beyond measure. Monitor the level of nitrogen applied when fertilizing. If you notice affected leaves, remove them immediately.

Pests and protection against them

Many strawberry varieties have high resistance and immunity against diseases. But not all of them are as resistant to various types of pests. We have to fight them every season. We will tell you about the most terrible enemies of strawberries and how to defeat them.

Birds

Birds are controversial guests on your site. On the one hand, they reduce the number of harmful insects, and on the other hand, they themselves are not averse to eating various fruits.

And if insects can be removed from your site, then it is impossible to get rid of birds. Sparrows, crows, magpies, starlings and other feathered representatives will constantly feed on it. Birds choose the ripest and largest berries. And if measures are not taken, their raids will become regular. As a result, the entire strawberry crop will be eaten.

Experienced gardeners have several ways to deal with them.

1. Net- It can be purchased at a household goods store. Cover the plantings with it so that birds do not get to the fruits.
2. Shiny objects– place them throughout the area at a height of one meter. For these purposes, for example, unnecessary digital disks or foil are suitable. Their shine will scare away birds.
3. Ultrasonic repellers– created to rid your area of ​​the attacks of rodents and birds. Can be found in specialty stores.

Slugs

One of the worst enemies of strawberries. They feed on both leaves and fruits. And at the same time they spoil the bush with their vile mucus. It spreads in areas with high humidity and high temperatures.

Depending on the variety, they can act both during the day and at night. It won't be easy to get them out. The drugs Met and Groza can help with this. It is better to carry out preventive measures that will significantly reduce the risk of slug attacks.

Firstly, beds with strawberries can be mulched with film. The temperature under it will kill the slugs. Secondly, it is worth digging grooves in the area and filling them with lime, ash or pepper. They will repel pests. Third, sprinkle superphosphate and potassium salt around the strawberries, which are lethal to slugs.

Raspberry weevil

A beetle that is difficult to see due to its small size. The body of insects does not grow more than three millimeters. They are gray or black.

These insects spend the winter in dry fallen leaves and come out to hunt in the spring. Despite its small size, one such bug is capable of destroying more than 40 bushes before the fruits begin to ripen. It lays eggs in the buds. When the larvae hatch, they begin to feed on strawberry flowers. Then the grown beetles move onto the leaves.

Only special preparations can cope with weevils. In case of an attack, spray with Corsair, Actellik, Karbofos and Zolon.

May beetle larvae

Small but very voracious creatures. They feed on both roots and above-ground parts of plants. In this case, all crops are used, including strawberries. It is a real headache for gardeners. The larvae gnaw through the roots of plants, which is why various infectious agents can enter them.

For the winter, the larvae go deep into the ground, so ordinary digging will not help you. Some gardeners use traditional methods. Firstly, they collect the larvae from the bushes by hand, and secondly, they water the beds with a solution of ammonia. Onion peel tincture also helps. If there are too many of these pests, you will have to use the chemical preparations “Zemlina” or “Antikhrushcha”.

Nematodes

Tiny worms measuring one millimeter. They feed on the green mass of strawberries. But before they start eating, the nematodes inject a liquid into the tissues that softens them.

Due to their tiny size, it is almost impossible to see these worms. Their presence can be determined by the appearance of the bush. It grows slowly, the flowers bloom poorly, the leaves turn yellow, and the berries grow ugly.

Nematodes can not only destroy crops, but also harm your health. Berries from an affected bush can cause poisoning. Symptoms such as nausea, weakness and muscle pain will appear.

Ants

At first glance, these insects are harmless, but they can cause a lot of trouble for gardeners. Strawberries are a favorite food of ants. They feed on berries, leaves and roots. And a subspecies of turf ants even builds anthills right in the rhizomes of plants.

To deal with them, you can spray strawberries with chemicals. For example, “Aktara”, “Fitoverm” or “Iskra”. Another way is to place poisonous traps with bait on the beds.

Aphid

Small insects whose life activity is closely related to the life of ants. So these two disasters usually strike strawberries together. Aphids not only weaken the plant themselves, but are also carriers of various diseases.

Its presence can be determined by the slow blooming of flowers and ripening of fruits, twisted, limp leaves, as well as altered shoot tips.

To defeat aphids, you must first get rid of the ants.

Strawberry whitefly

Strawberry whitefly are small butterflies. Can be confused with a moth. They are usually located on the lower part of the leaves and suck the juice from them. At the same time, the leaves themselves become covered with a whitish coating and fungus; over time, they lose their green color, turn black and die.

To combat the massive invasion of whiteflies, the drugs Confidor and Aktaru are used. You can also use folk remedies, namely shampoo or flea spray. There is another way. For some reason, these flying insects are attracted to the color yellow. Therefore, experienced gardeners often make distracting baits from yellow cardboard and smear them with glue or honey.

Strawberry leaf beetle

The brown beetle is small in size and fully lives up to its name. It feeds on strawberry leaves, being located on their lower part. The beetles lay eggs on the stems. The hatched larvae also feed on leaves and cause much more damage to the crop than the beetles themselves. As a result, the bush becomes weaker and stops bearing fruit.

The risk of leaf beetles is reduced if you sprinkle the area with tobacco dust in early spring. But in this matter, you need to observe moderation; dust can affect the taste of the berries. You can also spray the bushes with Karate or Karbofos. And don't forget about regular weeding. After all, it is weeds that attract leaf beetles.

The strawberry mite is a very dangerous pest for strawberries. These insects are so small that it is impossible to see them. However, their presence is indicated by small brown spots on the leaves, which begin to turn yellow over time. Ticks are unable to destroy the bushes, but the harvest volume is noticeably reduced.

If you notice these signs, the crops should be immediately treated with Actellik, Fufanon or Kemifos. Preventive spraying with Karbofos will help reduce the risk of a tick attack. It is also worth carrying out heat treatment of seedlings before planting. By the way, the Torpeda, Zarya, Vityaz and Zenga-Zengana varieties are highly resistant to these insects.

Spider mite

A small pest that settles on the underside of leaves. It is difficult to detect, but you can recognize its presence by the thin light threads that entangle the bush. The threads look like a web, which is how the tick got its name. It feeds on strawberry juice, which causes its leaves and stems to dry out.

Spider mites are not exactly insects, so they are not afraid of conventional medications. Acaricides such as Neoron, Vertimek, Apollo or Akarin should be used. And, by the way, they need to be changed every time, because the pest adapts very quickly. For prevention, bushes can be treated with onion tincture or a decoction of cyclamen tubers. But folk remedies do not always help.

The varieties Anastasia, Zolushka Kubani, Sunrise and Pervoklassnitsa are resistant to attack by spider mites.

Harm from weeds and ways to protect against them

But pests and diseases are not the only thing that worries summer residents and gardeners. Every year they face the same problem, namely weeds.

These harmful plants cause a lot of trouble. First, they prevent crops from growing properly. Secondly, weeds absorb nutrients and beneficial substances that are present in the soil. Because of this, strawberries may lack them, and this will negatively affect the harvest. Thirdly, weeds can carry infections and attract insects, which leads to new problems.

Of course, you can give up on this misfortune, in the hope that this time it will not cause significant damage. But if you are interested in a large, high-quality harvest, you will have to make an effort. There are several ways to combat this disease. Let's look at the most common ones.

• Traditional– involves plowing the area where strawberries will subsequently be planted. This will help get rid of the roots of perennial weeds. But others will take their place. Weeding, as a rule, has to be done quite often. Preferably after each watering. Agree, this takes a lot of effort and time.
• Chemical– rarely used in gardens. Still, herbicides are poisons that can be dangerous not only for weeds, but also for crops, animals and even people. In addition, not all plants are susceptible to the effects of chemicals.

By the way, modern agrofibre, which can be purchased in specialized stores, is treated with substances that increase resistance to ultraviolet radiation.




Prevention

As you can see, there are many threats to strawberries. And you can never predict what you will face this year. Therefore, it is recommended to regularly carry out a set of preventive measures that will significantly reduce possible risks.

• The first and most important rule is to observe crop rotation. Strawberries should not be grown in the same place for more than four years. If we are talking about remontant varieties - no more than two years.
• If your site is often prone to diseases or insects, choose the most resistant strawberry varieties.
• Experienced gardeners advise planting onions or garlic between the rows of strawberries. Their smell repels pests and protects the crop from rot.
• Sprinkle the beds with boric acid or baking soda. This will repel the ants.
• Keep a close eye on your strawberries as they bear fruit. If you notice rotten berries, remove them immediately.
• To protect strawberries from wasps, place small containers of sweet syrup between the rows.
• When fruiting is over, remove old leaves and spray the bushes with chemicals.




Before winter, infected and dry parts of strawberries should be picked off and burned. Many people do not pay attention to the last point, which leads to the same problems next season. It is in old foliage that microorganisms and small insects spend the winter.

And yet, even this amount of effort does not guarantee complete safety for your garden strawberries. But now you know how to recognize the threat and what methods to use against it. This will help preserve a significant part of the harvest and enjoy all the delights of this magnificent berry.




For more information on how to save strawberries from pests, watch the following video.

With the onset of summer, everyone is looking forward to the strawberry harvest. However, strawberries are susceptible to a large number of diseases, and treatment measures must be taken on time. Otherwise, there is a risk of being left without a treat. This article describes the most common plant diseases, their symptoms, treatment and prevention methods that will help you save strawberries and enjoy the divine taste of their fruits.

spotting

Spot is the most common strawberry disease. It affects not only the foliage part, but also leads to crop loss. With an extensive disease, all the fruits, as well as the seedlings themselves, may be lost. The threat of plant damage by this disease persists throughout the entire growing season. The spotting will not go away on its own; to get rid of it, you must immediately take appropriate measures. Strawberry leaf spot is caused by a fungus Depending on its type, the following types of disease are distinguished:

• white spotting;
• brown;
• brown.

The specific type of disease determines what treatment and prevention methods a gardener needs to take to save the crop and plant.

Important! If strawberries and the soil under them are not treated, you can lose the harvest not only this year, but also next year: the fungus will begin to actively develop next year, inhibiting the growth and flowering of new seedlings.

This type of disease is caused by fungi of the genus Mycospherella and Ramularia. Begins to develop in early spring. It affects leaves, stalks, petioles, and berries. Signs of white spotting can be detected as early as May. These include:

• the formation of white spots with a dark edge on the surface of the leaves;
• the shape of the spots is round or oval, they are located along the central vein of the leaves;
• over time, the spots fall out, and holes form in their place; under conditions of the development of the disease, their size becomes increasingly larger, forming large holes;
• leaves and petioles die;
• the berries become stained and rot or dry out.

Factors that provoke infection of strawberries with this disease are:

• before planting the seedlings, onions, garlic, herbs, carrots, potatoes, eggplants, cucumbers, tomatoes, corn, celery, beans, rapeseed, clover, and grains grew on the site;
• dense planting;
• soil damage by rot or pests;
• failure to remove dry leaves in a timely manner;
• untreated or late-treated soil in the spring;
• long-term use of the site.

In winter, the spores are stored in plant debris. The fungus tolerates heat and low temperatures, wet weather and drought. In open places where there is a lot of light, spores develop faster. The disease is transmitted to healthy sprouts by wind, rain, insects, and through the soil.

Control and prevention measures:

• in early spring, clear the area of ​​last year's leaves and burn them;
• treat the seedlings with “Falcon” in the spring, and “Ordan” in the fall;
• in the case of planting new shoots, after combating white spotting, only healthy, undamaged seedlings are used;
• thin out the tendrils and seedlings to ensure normal density;
• promptly remove missing, damaged leaves and seedlings;
• remove missing berries;
• do not overfill;
• fertilize with potassium fertilizer;
• do not fertilize with organic substances (manure, droppings).

Did you know? Folk remedies for combating strawberry diseases in the form of white spot include spraying the leaves of the plant with an iodine solution (50 ml of iodine per 10 liters of water).

Brown spot

The causative agent of brown spot is a fungus of the genus Mersoninna. Develops in mid-July. Brown spot affects strawberry leaves, sometimes runners and petioles. At the onset of the disease, the leaves become covered with large reddish spots of angular, irregular shape. Later the spots turn brown. Black dots that secrete mucus are scattered on the surface of the spots. As the disease progresses, the spots lose their distinct color and the leaves simply dry out. On petioles and tendrils, brown spotting reveals itself as small, slightly pressed black dots. Carriers are insects, wind, and raindrops.

Important! L The strawberry leaves disappear in a short period of time. At a late stage, the disease is difficult to notice. It seems that the plant is simply preparing for a period of rest: the spots disappear and the leaves simply dry out. However, when young foliage grows, micelle spots immediately form on it.

Factors that create favorable conditions for the development of the disease:

• dense planting;
• excessive watering;
• failure to clear the area of ​​weeds in a timely manner.

Control and prevention measures:

• in the fall, spray the area with “Ordan”;
• in the spring, treat with Falcon or Ridomil for prevention;
• use only healthy seedlings for planting;
• promptly trim and clear the area of ​​dry leaves and tendrils;
• use potash fertilizers;
• treatment with manganese solution (5 g per 10 liters of water).

Angular or brown spotting

The plant is attacked in July. Damages leaves, tendrils, petioles, berries. It leads to the death of leaves, which subsequently causes the plants to withstand the winter poorly, many of them freeze, and the next year’s yield also deteriorates.

At the beginning of the disease, yellowish spots form on the leaves, which eventually turn brown. However, the yellowish border remains. As the disease progresses, the spots increase in size and take on an angular shape. After rains, light mucous fungal spores form on the surface of the spots. On the petioles and runners, the disease manifests itself as brown dots, which eventually turn into necrosis.

• in autumn, remove all dry and infected foliage;
• treat plants with “Ordan” in the autumn;
• In the spring, for prevention, you can spray with Ridomil, Quadris or Falcon.

The disease appears on leaves and fruits as a white coating, which smells like mold. The causative agent is fungi that are transmitted by air or along with infected seedlings.

Methods of control and prevention:

• planting strawberries in a well-ventilated and sufficiently illuminated area;
• grow the plant in high beds;
• spring spraying with Quadris (for prevention);
• If signs of disease are detected after picking berries, the plants are sprayed with Fundazol.

Did you know? Powdery mildew gives the unpleasant taste of mold and ugly shape to strawberry fruits.

Rot

Rot is one of the dangerous and common diseases of strawberries. It's difficult to get her out. At the same time, it leads to the death of a large amount of crops. The disease can destroy up to 85% of the fruit.

Affects the entire above-ground part of strawberries. Signs of the disease include:

Important! The most favorable condition for the development of rot is moist soil. Drying excessively moist soil during heavy rainfall will help save the plant from disease.

Methods of control and prevention:

• planting healthy seedlings;
• when a disease is detected, spray with "Antrakol" or "Quadris".

Rhizoctonia (black root rot)

Strawberries are susceptible to this disease throughout the growing season. With this disease, round black spots form on the roots of the plant. Over time, the root system becomes flabby and dry. With this disease, the yield is significantly reduced, the seedlings grow poorly and practically do not form mustaches, the petioles become brown. After some time, in the absence of appropriate measures, the plant dies.

Plants that grow are most susceptible to rhizoctonia:

• on depleted soil;
• in areas where potatoes, tomatoes, and corn had previously grown;
• in conditions where strawberries were grown for a long time without changing location.

Methods of control and prevention:

• changing the place where the plant is grown (plant in the same place no earlier than after 4 years);
• It is not advisable to fertilize with organic matter;
• For prevention, seedlings are sprayed with Ordan in the fall.

A sign of white rot disease is the lightening of the foliage followed by drying out or rotting. A white coating forms on the leaves and berries. Over time, the berries begin to rot. The development of the disease is promoted by cool, damp weather and dense planting.

• thinning of densely planted seedlings;
• growing in high beds;
• When signs of disease are detected, strawberries are treated with Desoral.

It affects the entire above-ground part of the plant. Gray spots appear on the leaves; they do not have clear boundaries. The fruits become covered with brown spots, become watery, flabby and tasteless. As the disease develops, the berries become completely covered with a gray coating.

Factors associated with the appearance of gray rot are increased humidity and decreased temperature, berries touching the ground, and untimely harvesting of infected berries. The most favorable conditions are damp, cold weather and temperature changes. The fungus, which causes rot, overwinters in the soil and on the remains of strawberries.

Methods of prevention and control:

• autumn cleaning of the area from infected leaves and fruits;
• mulching with straw;
• thinning;
• spraying at the beginning and middle of flowering with Teldor;
• periodic cleaning of infected fruits, leaves, tendrils, and weeds.

Did you know? The varieties most susceptible to gray rot are the following: Zengana, Krasavitsa, Zolushka, Nadezhda.

Black rot

Berries are susceptible to this disease. They turn brown, lose their smell and taste, and become watery. As the disease develops, they become covered with a dark coating.

Control and prevention measures:

• growing strawberries in high beds;
• autumn treatment with "Ordan";
• for prevention in the spring, spray with boric acid (10 g per 10 liters of water).

Important! Preventativeprotection of strawberries from diseasesSpraying with chemicals should be carried out before flowering and after harvesting. If urgent measures need to be taken, the crop after spraying is collected and thrown away. Be sure to familiarize yourself with the dangerous period of exposure to poisons, which is indicated on the packaging.

Withering

This disease occurs quite often. The disease is caused by mushrooms. At the same time, strawberry bushes disappear very quickly. Wilting is also characterized by massive plant damage.

The most effective remedy for all strawberry diseases is proper care.

Modern strawberry varieties are quite disease resistant. With proper agricultural technology, diseases do not cause severe damage to the plantation. Nevertheless, many gardeners complain about outbreaks of garden strawberry diseases on their plots. On this page you will find a description of the most common strawberry diseases and effective ways to treat them.

Strawberry diseases and their treatment

Gray rot

The causative agent is a pathogenic fungus. It is preserved in petioles and dead leaves, damaged berries and not removed from the plantation. A very common strawberry disease.

Description of the disease. On leaves, peduncles, flowers and ovaries it appears as large brown drying spots that do not have a border. In hot weather, the spots crack. In rainy weather and high humidity, a smoky-gray coating appears on the affected tissues.

Affected berries become soft and a wet brown spot appears on their surface. The mycelium itself develops in the pulp, and spores appear on the surface in the form of a gray coating. Affected berries are unfit for food and must be destroyed. The disease manifests itself in damp, rainy summers. Overgrowing the plot with weeds, growing strawberries in the shade under dense crowns, and dense plantings contribute to the rapid progression of the disease.

Ripe strawberries are more affected by rot. Green ones are more resistant and are affected if there are diseased red berries nearby.

Methods of treatment. In damp weather during the budding period, strawberries are sprayed with a broad-spectrum fungicide Euparen. This drug is most effective in the fight against gray rot and white spotting, and also suppresses the causative agent of powdery mildew. Euparen should not be mixed with Bordeaux mixture and adhesives should not be added to the working solution. 2 g of the drug is diluted in 1 liter of water, consumption per hundred square meters is 6 liters. After harvesting, a second spraying is carried out.

To combat infection, strawberry bushes can be sprayed with bacterial preparations Planriz or Alirin B.

During the period of ovary growth in damp weather, diseased strawberry bushes are pollinated with fluff.

Traditional methods of treatment.

1. Garlic infusion. The husk is poured with 5 liters of hot water and left for 2 days. The resulting infusion is diluted with water in equal proportions and the bushes are watered.
2. Prepare a solution from ash (1 cup), chalk (1 cup), copper sulfate (1 tsp). The mixture is poured into 10 liters of water and sprayed onto the strawberries.

Disease prevention.

1. Thinning thickened plantings.
2. Removal of plant residues.
3. Removal and destruction of rotten berries.
4. Strawberries should not be irrigated by sprinkling during flowering and ovary growth.
5. To prevent damage, freshly reddened and not quite ripe berries are removed.
6. After each rain the earth is loosened.

It is advisable that ripe berries do not come into contact with wet soil; for this, special support rings (sold in garden stores) or plastic bottles are placed under the bushes. You can mulch the ground with any material except peat.

White spot or ramularia

Fungal disease. The infection persists in affected overwintering leaves and plant debris. Strawberries grown in heavy soils with excess organic matter are more susceptible to ramularia.

Description of the disease. Affects leaves, peduncles, stalks, sepals. Numerous small red-brown spots of round or angular shape appear on strawberry leaves. As the mycelium develops, the spots turn white, but a brown border always remains around them. In hot weather, the affected tissue cracks and falls out; in humid weather, a white coating of sporulation appears. The spores spread to neighboring leaves and plants.

On the peduncles, stalks, and sepals the spots are dark brown, turning white over time. They are elongated and slightly pressed. With severe damage, the flower stalks become brown, thin, fall and dry out.

The first signs of the disease on strawberries appear in early to mid-May; in summer, rainy weather contributes to the spread of infection. A large amount of moisture in the soil after snow melts also contributes to the development of the disease.

Methods for treating strawberries.

1. 3-4 times treatment with Bayleton: during the period of leaf growth, when flower stalks extend, after harvesting and 10-12 days after the previous treatment.
2. Double treatment with Euparen. You can do 4 treatments, alternating Euparen and Bayleton.
3. Spraying with Nitrafen. The drug has a broad spectrum of action, can accumulate in the soil and cause burns to plants, so it is used once in early spring or late autumn.
4. Double treatment of strawberries with Bordeaux mixture: before flowering and in the second half of July. The leaves are processed from the underside.

Traditional methods of treatment. Spraying strawberries with a 5% iodine solution (10 ml per 10 liters of water). Treatment is carried out on the leaves before flowering.

Disease prevention:

• removing dry leaves in early spring;
• thinning a thickened plot;
• weed removal;
• burning of all damaged plant residues.

White spot (and all strawberry diseases in general) develops greatly when the bushes are overfed with nitrogen. When a lesion is detected, nitrogen fertilizing (both organic and mineral) is stopped and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied. The best of them is ash.

Brown spot

The infection is caused by pathogenic fungi. Preserves in affected plant debris and affected overwintering strawberry leaves.

Description of the disease. The disease affects the above-ground parts of plants. Numerous round or angular spots appear on strawberry leaves, the color of which ranges from red-brown to almost black; the middle of the spot is somewhat lighter, but without a border. They can merge. Soon black shiny pads with spores appear on the spots. If the infection is severe, the leaves turn purple and die.

On leaf petioles and tendrils, the disease manifests itself as depressed small brown spots.

This strawberry disease appears in the second half of summer and, if widespread, can cause browning and premature drying of leaves, which negatively affects the winter hardiness of strawberries. Humid and hot weather promotes the development of infection. But at temperatures above 32°C, even with high humidity, the development of the disease slows down.

Prevention and treatment of the disease

1. Preventive spraying with Bordeaux mixture. If the disease spreads strongly, treatment is carried out in spring and autumn.
2. If more than half of the plantation is affected, treat with Nitrofen.

Powdery mildew

The causative agent of the infection is a pathogenic fungus. Its spores are stored in the affected plant tissues and on plant debris. The source of the disease consists of mycelium and numerous white spores, which, spreading, infect surrounding strawberry bushes and other plants susceptible to powdery mildew.

Signs of defeat. A white coating appears on young strawberry leaves on both sides and on the petioles. The edges of the leaf blades wrinkle and bend upward like a boat, the lower surface acquires a bronze-pink hue. Peduncles, flowers and ovaries turn brown and become deformed. Green berries dry out. The red berries become slimy and appear sprinkled with flour, and a characteristic musty smell appears. The disease manifests itself in damp summers and when the watering regime is violated.

How to treat strawberries.

1. Treatment with fungicides based on colloidal sulfur or copper sulfate. Preparations containing sulfur are more effective. Bordeaux mixture containing copper sulfate is ineffective against powdery mildew.
2. Treatment of strawberry plantation with colloidal sulfur. The drug can be used 3 days before picking berries (Tiovit Jet).
3. The drug Topaz is the most effective in the fight against powdery mildew. The duration of the therapeutic effect is 3 days, the prophylactic effect is 7-10 days.
4. Fitosporin is very effective at the early stage of the disease, but in advanced forms it does not have the necessary effect.
5. Copper sulfate can be used once per season, since the drug is toxic. Sprayed to prevent and treat the initial stage of infection in early spring.
6. Can be treated with other fungicides: Skif, Skor, Tilt, Quadris, Zato.
7. Spray the bushes very strongly, the solution should drain from the leaves.
8. You can water strawberries only when the top layer dries.
9. Stop fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers.

Traditional methods of treatment are more suitable for preventing disease than for treating it.

1. Iodine. 10 ml are diluted in 10 liters of water and sprayed on the strawberry bushes from the bottom and top sides. Effective in the early stages of the disease.
2. Soda. 5 g of soda ash is diluted in 1 liter of hot water, adding soap shavings to the solution for better adhesion of the drug. After the solution has cooled, spray and water the soil. Spraying is repeated 3 times with an interval of 7 days.
3. Potassium permanganate. 1 g/4 l of water. Carry out 2-3 treatments with an interval of 7-10 days. Spraying must be done after rain.
4. Serum. 1 l/10 l of water, spraying strawberries every 3-5 days. The serum coats the plants with a film and prevents the growth of the fungus, making it difficult for it to breathe. In addition, fermented milk microflora is an antagonist of pathogenic fungi. It produces substances (antibiotics) that kill fungi and their spores.

As the disease develops, people switch from folk remedies to chemicals.

Brown (angular) spotting

The pathogenic fungus mainly affects old leaves. Pycnidia, the overwintering fruiting bodies of fungi, form on the affected tissue. Overwinters in affected tissues and on infected plant debris.

How does the disease manifest? The disease appears in mid-summer and reaches its peak in mid-August to early September. Red-brown spots with a light center and a dark border appear on the leaf blades. Rapidly increasing along the veins or from the edge of the leaf to the center, they acquire an irregular angular shape. Gradually the spots become gray-brown, but the border remains. In hot weather, the affected tissue cracks and falls out.

When leaf petioles and vines are damaged, oval brown spots and dry constrictions appear on them. When the stalks are damaged, the ovaries become brown and dry out. Wet weather contributes to the spread of the disease.

How to treat strawberries.

1. When the disease appears after picking the berries, mow down all the foliage and spray it with Nitrafen before it grows back.
2. Before flowering and after fruiting, diseased strawberries are sprayed with Bordeaux mixture.
3. Treating the plantation with Ordan.

Traditional methods of treatment.

1. Ash. 1/2 bucket of wood ash is poured into 10 liters of water and left for 3 days. Bring the volume of the solution to 30 liters, add an adhesive (soap, milk, kefir) and spray the strawberries. Diseased strawberries are treated twice with a 10-day break.
2. Kefir. 1 liter of fermented kefir (yogurt, old fermented baked milk, etc.) is diluted in 10 liters of water and sprayed on strawberry bushes. Carry out 2 treatments with an interval of 12-14 days.

Late blight

A fungal disease, the pathogen persists in the soil for 8-10 years.

Description of the disease. All parts of the plant are affected. The roots become bare and die, and the central cylinder of the root turns red and the rhizome is destroyed. Ring-shaped brown spots appear at the base of the leaf petioles. Peduncles or already formed berries often dry out. Dry spots appear on the berries, which increase in size and affect the entire surface; the berries acquire a brown color with a purple tint, become hard and leathery, dry out and decrease in size. Sometimes a white mold-like coating appears.

How to treat. It is very difficult to fight the disease, since the mycelium is located inside the plant tissue. Preventative methods are the most effective. For prevention, strawberries are sprayed 3-4 times with Quadris, Bravo, Antracol, and Bordeaux mixture. The fungus very quickly develops resistance to fungicides, so each time spraying is carried out with different preparations.

Traditional methods of treatment.

1. Spraying a strawberry plantation with an alcohol solution of iodine (10 ml/10 l of water).
2. Treatment with garlic solution. 1 cup of finely chopped leaves is poured into 10 liters of water, left for 24 hours, 1.5 g of potassium permanganate is added to the solution and sprayed. Repeated treatment is carried out after 10 days. Phytoncides contained in garlic kill late blight spores.
3. Spraying strawberries with infusion of ash. Treatment is carried out 3 times with an interval of 10 days.
4. Spraying with fermented milk solution. During the summer, 3 treatments are carried out.
5. Copper wire. Copper has an antifungal effect. For protection, several old leaves are pierced with wire, the ends of which are stuck into the soil.

It is easier to prevent all these strawberry diseases than to try to cure diseased plants later. Therefore, pay great attention to proper agricultural technology.

Other useful articles on growing strawberries:

1. The article describes in detail how to care for a strawberry plantation from early spring to late autumn.
2. What pests can threaten your plantation and how to effectively combat them.
3. How to propagate strawberry bushes yourself and what mistakes gardeners most often make.
4. Is it worth it for ordinary summer residents to do this?
5. A selection of the newest, most productive and promising varieties.
6. Growing technology and all the pros and cons of this matter.
7. Are you going to tackle strawberries? Then this is the very first article you need to read.

Existing strawberry diseases and the fight against them are a priority issue for a gardener who wants to get rich harvests of this aromatic berry. There are known diseases of garden strawberries that are transmitted infectiously. These are mainly bacterial rot and fungus. Viral diseases of strawberries manifest themselves more acutely and can literally destroy the entire plantation in a matter of days. It is these strawberry diseases that are considered quarantine and after them a long period is necessary when the crop does not return to the site. All diseases of garden strawberries and the fight against them are described in detail in this article.

What are the diseases of garden strawberries?

Strawberries are most susceptible to fungal diseases. This situation is especially aggravated during the rainy period, when the air temperature drops, and in cloudy, sunny weather. The fungus can appear not only on the greenery of strawberry bushes; it affects both the roots and the berries themselves.

The most famous and common diseases of garden strawberries are:

• rot: white, gray, black, root and late blight;
• powdery mildew;
• Fusarium wilt of bushes;
• spotting: white, brown and brown.

A detailed description of these strawberry diseases with photos, as well as methods of combating diseases can be found below.

Basic rules for strawberry prevention

Almost every gardener has to deal with various strawberry diseases. To prevent the occurrence of diseases in your area, you must do the following:

• Use high-quality, healthy planting material.
• Choose the right varieties.
• Replace plants with new ones every 2-3 years.
• Fumigate the soil before planting.
• Thin out the plants after the entire crop has been harvested.
• Control weeds and pests.

Brown (angular) spotting of strawberries and methods of treatment

The pathogenic fungus mainly affects old leaves. Pycnidia, the overwintering fruiting bodies of fungi, form on the affected tissue. Overwinters in affected tissues and on infected plant debris.

How does the disease manifest? The disease appears in mid-summer and reaches its peak in mid-August to early September. Red-brown spots with a light center and a dark border appear on the leaf blades. Rapidly increasing along the veins or from the edge of the leaf to the center, they acquire an irregular angular shape. Gradually the spots become gray-brown, but the border remains. In hot weather, the affected tissue cracks and falls out. When leaf petioles and vines are damaged, oval brown spots and dry constrictions appear on them. When the stalks are damaged, the ovaries become brown and dry out. Wet weather contributes to the spread of the disease.

How to treat strawberries

1. When the disease appears after picking the berries, mow down all the foliage and spray it with Nitrafen before it grows back.
2. Before flowering and after fruiting, diseased strawberries are sprayed with Bordeaux mixture.
3. Treating the plantation with Ordan.

Traditional methods of treatment.

• Ash. 1/2 bucket of wood ash is poured into 10 liters. water, leave for 3 days. Bring the volume of the solution to 30 liters, add an adhesive (soap, milk, kefir) and spray the strawberries. Diseased strawberries are treated twice with a 10-day break.
• Kefir. 1 l. fermented kefir (yogurt, old fermented baked milk, etc.) is diluted in 10 liters. water and spray strawberry bushes. Carry out 2 treatments with an interval of 12-14 days.

White spotting of strawberries and methods of treatment

White spotting of strawberry leaves in most cases does not lead to the death of the plant, but is dangerous in that it can significantly deteriorate the presentation of the berry.

Symptoms

The disease affects the outer side of the leaf: small dark spots with a white dot in the center appear on it. The edges of the spots are purple. If a significant number of such spots are concentrated on a leaf, they can grow, merging together.

White spot affects not only leaves, but also berries. A symptom of the disease is the formation of black dots on strawberries, which are localized in the area of ​​the seeds. Over time, the disease spreads to the soft tissues of the berry, and a black-brown skin forms on its surface.

Despite the fact that the pulp of the affected berries loses color, rotting does not occur with this disease. As a rule, white spot affects strawberries after heavy rains.

Prevention

To prevent the occurrence of this disease on strawberry leaves, it is recommended to spray with products containing copper or systemic preparations. Such preventive treatments should be carried out several times a season.

Fusarium wilt of strawberries and methods of treatment

The following signs will indicate the occurrence of this disease:

• the above-ground green part begins to change color and gradually becomes brown;
• ovaries do not form on the infected bush;
  plant growth stops and the bush gradually dies.

Prevention

• Using healthy seedlings.
• Correct crop rotation.
• Timely weed control.

Treatment

• If the disease was detected very quickly literally at the initial stage of development, then in this case it is recommended to use drugs such as “Phytodoctor” and “Trichodermin”. With more active development of the disease, “Chorus” and “Fundazol” are highly effective.

Gray rot of strawberries and methods of treatment

It is characterized by a fungal origin, but poses a serious danger to the crop due to its rapid spread, as a result of which the entire bed has to be removed.

The first signs are characterized by the appearance of brown spots on the stems, usually dry to the touch. The onset of the pathology is characterized by damage to the stalk, followed by infection of the surface of the berry. The fungal spore appears as a watery gray fluff.

The danger of gray rot is that its rapid development leads to the death of leaves, then berries, then the entire plant is affected and dies. At the initial stage, when the signs are still invisible, a decrease in productivity occurs, the level of endurance of temperature changes decreases, and weight loss occurs.

Gray rot develops in places where the humidity level is very high. At this place, mycelium and fungal spores form and grow. In strong winds, these spores are carried over long distances, which provokes infection of the entire garden bed, and can infect many garden crops.

The main method of control is timely prevention.

Avoid over-wetting the area and systematically loosen the soil. Remove diseased plants without regret. Bushes growing nearby can be treated with a mixture of wood ash, chalk, copper sulfate, water. Where they take one glass of chalk and ash, one teaspoon of vitriol, ten liters of water. This dose is enough to treat three square meters. Severe damage can be eliminated with fungicides - phytosporin-M, Bordeaux mixture will also help.

White rot of strawberries and methods of treatment

If there is a lack of heat and excess rain in the summer, then the strawberry bushes can be affected by a disease such as white rot. Its appearance is indicated by the lightening of leaves, which subsequently rot. A white coating appears on the leaves and the berries rot.

The spread of the disease is facilitated by dense plantings and weeds in the area.

The spread of this infection can be curbed if you use healthy seedlings for planting, observe the recommended distances when planting, and remove weeds.

Treatment

Drugs that inhibit the spread of rot - Horus or Svitich - help fight an outbreak of white rot.

Strawberry root rot and treatment methods

The disease begins with small black spots appearing on young roots, then all young roots turn black. Then the entire plant from the roots to the rosette becomes brown. Constrictions appear on the rhizome and it becomes fragile. Productivity decreases, bushes do not develop. Root rot infection is active throughout the plant's growing season.

Prevention

1. When laying beds and fertilizing plantings, use only well-rotted compost. In unripe compost prepared with the addition of weeds, the infection persists.
2. After the snow melts, the plantings are treated with the drug "Trichodermin"
3. Before leaving the plantation for the winter, it must be sprayed with “Phytodoctor”.
4. Strawberries should not be preceded by potatoes.
5. The place for planting beds should be sunny with well-warmed soil.

Treatment
Root rot disease has no cure. Infected plants are dug up and destroyed. The vacated space is disinfected.

Strawberry brown spot and treatment methods

It affects leaf blades, first forming brown edges on them, which over time develop into complete “browning” of the leaf. An infected culture slows down its development, and bags of spores form on its surface. The disease is long-term and sluggish: you may be convinced that the berries have recovered, but in the fall everything will happen all over again. It is important to regularly remove weeds and old diseased leaves. If you still “failed to protect yourself and caught the nasty thing,” after harvesting, treat the plantation with Fitosporin.

When studying strawberry diseases, you cannot miss fusarium wilt. Before it gets sick, the seedling turns brown, withers and dies. If it is possible to detect the fungus in the early stages, the culture can be saved with “Phytodoctor”, “Trichodermin”. Otherwise, the plantation is removed and replanting is possible only after 4 years.

Late blight of strawberries and methods of treatment

Late blight is dangerous because it quickly spreads from bush to bush and leads to the death of the plant. The disease affects the root system, leaves, petioles and peduncles. Brown spots appear on them, gradually rotting. Strawberry fruits suffer the most from the disease: the pulp becomes covered with brown leathery spots, the berries become hard, bitter, and mummified.

Note! The fungus overwinters on infected plant debris, as well as on living strawberry rosettes.

Measures to prevent and protect against this disease are the following:

• correct watering mode;
• use of varieties resistant to late blight;
• compliance with planting and crop rotation schemes;
• timely destruction of infected bushes and plant debris;
• treatment of plantings with Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate, copper oxychloride, Abiga-Pik and Oxyx preparations.

Powdery mildew of strawberries and methods of treatment

The disease develops on leaf blades, petioles, tendrils and strawberries. First, a barely noticeable whitish coating appears on the underside of the leaves, which gradually moves to the upper part of the leaf, and then to other parts of the plant. The bush stops growing, diseased leaves become coarse and curl. The affected mustache also curls. The fruits take on an ugly shape, have a waxy coating and an unpleasant taste.

The following are distinguished as preventive and protective measures in the fight against powdery mildew:

• use of varieties resistant to powdery mildew and healthy seedlings;
• in areas with high humidity, planting plants on high ridges;
• preventive spraying with a soap-copper solution or Quadris;
• spraying of plantings after harvesting with Switch and Fundazol.

Black rot of strawberries and methods of treatment

Black rot affects only fruits, and its occurrence can be determined by the following signs:

• the berry becomes watery;
• strawberries lose their juicy color and become brown;
• the characteristic taste and aroma disappears;
• A colorless coating appears on the fruits, which becomes dark a little later.

Prevention

• The crop must be grown in high beds.
• The area should be sunny and well ventilated.
• For feeding, it is advisable to use manganese - 2 g per 10 liters. water.
• Do not apply too much nitrogen and organic fertilizers.

• If affected berries are found, they should be immediately removed and buried outside the garden plot. This technique will help prevent the spread of the disease.