Proper ventilation in a private house with your own hands. Features of ventilation of multi-storey buildings: arrangement of exhaust and supply ventilation in the apartment. Supply ventilation in a private house

It is difficult to call a cottage without an effective ventilation system comfortable to live in. The flow of fresh air into it from outside must be constant and sufficient, otherwise the microclimate in the rooms will become unfavorable.

Ventilation in a private house is done according to one of two schemes - with natural or forced draft. Moreover, it is quite possible to install it yourself. But in some cases the project will have to be ordered from professionals.

There are simplified calculations for air exchange devices in low-rise residential buildings, but they are not always suitable. Here you need to be as careful as possible to do everything correctly.

Types of ventilation systems

All variations of ventilation systems are divided into two types:

1. Natural.
2. Forced (controlled, mechanical).

The first assume the absence of any mechanical means of circulating air masses throughout the house. In this case, everything happens thanks to natural draft formed due to the difference in pressure and temperature at different points of the ventilation system. The operation of the latter, on the contrary, is due to the presence in their composition of air fans in the exhaust or supply direction.

What is the difference between natural and forced ventilation?

Natural

To create natural ventilation in a private house, you only need to make vents in its walls and create an exhaust ventilation duct. This option is the simplest and fastest to implement. It is enough to provide openings for air inlet and outlet even at the construction stage of the cottage. And if the building has already been built, then doing them in wall structures is also not too difficult.

Among the advantages of natural ventilation, it is worth highlighting:

• low cost of installation;
• high reliability and complete energy independence of the system;
• no need for complex maintenance;
• quiet operation.

Natural ventilation will not stop working during power outages. There are no mechanisms in it that can break at the wrong moment or make noise during operation.

Natural ventilation using ventilation shafts

Disadvantages of a natural draft ventilation system include:

• lack of filtration and purification of air masses from dust, odors and pollen;
• increased noise in the house due to the presence of additional holes in the walls;
• the difficulty of adjusting ventilation according to the volume of air exchange;
• an increase in heat consumption for heating premises in winter due to the entry of large volumes of cold air from the street;
• dependence of thrust on external atmospheric factors.

This ventilation scheme is recommended to be used when the cottage is located far from highways and in a clean area. That is, where there is no need for additional purification of the supply street air and there is no strong noise. In most other cases, it is worth taking a closer look at the option with a fan.

Natural ventilation in a house with an attic

Forced

In contrast to natural ventilation, forced ventilation in a private house is more effective and is capable of controlling not only temperature but also humidity in the room. However, it costs much more and requires constant power supply. The main element of such a system is a fan in one form or another.

Among the advantages of forced draft ventilation are:

• the ability to accurately adjust power and configure other system characteristics separately for each room;
• the ability to automatically control, in addition to temperature, the humidity and purity of room air;
• autonomous operation of the equipment without the need for constant manual adjustment;
• stability of air exchange throughout the house and in each room separately;
• the presence of an option for heating street air due to recovery or an electric heating element.

The forced option allows you to more accurately control all microclimate parameters in the rooms. However, you will have to pay for this not only with higher costs during the construction phase, but also with costs later during operation.

Forced ventilation in a private house

The disadvantages of forced ventilation at home include:

• the need for power supply and its costs;
• high price of equipment;
• additional financial costs for mandatory maintenance of electrical equipment;
• increased requirements for the quality of calculations and design.

The main nuance of this option is the dependence on electricity. If the power supply is turned off, the fan will stop working and the entire system will be of no use. If the voltage in the network regularly disappears in the village, then when installing ventilation of this type, it is necessary to take care of an uninterruptible power supply in advance.

Ventilation schemes

The scheme for organizing forced ventilation in a private house can be:

• supply air (the fan works to supply air to the rooms);
• exhaust (the fan draws air outside);
• combined supply and exhaust.

In the first two cases, the system consists of a ventilation duct (for exhaust or supply) with a fan and filters, which is supplemented with vents or air ducts for natural air flow. And in the third, ventilation is built from two ventilation ducts, each with its own blower.

Air flows in a private house

Supply

With supply ventilation, air is taken from the street, cleaned and heated or cooled as needed, and only then supplied to the premises. It exits outside the cottage through regular exhaust air ducts and through window sill vents. That is, it is mechanically pumped inside, and it goes outside on its own in a natural way through ventilation holes, doors and windows.

In the simplest scheme, such a system consists of one fan in a utility room and several ventilation ducts from this utility room to each living room. This option allows you to minimize noise from operating equipment and greatly simplifies calculations.

Air exchange in the house in the supply ventilation

If ventilation is installed in a small private house, then the method of its organization described above is the most optimal. It is enough to correctly calculate the required air exchange and fan power.

Installing ventilation afterwards is unlikely to cause any difficulties. Air ducts for it are usually made of flexible corrugated pipes of the appropriate diameter. And ventilation equipment with all filters, ionizers, etc. purchased as a ready-made installation. It will only need to be secured in the chosen location and connected to the ventilation ducts.

Supply valve in a private house

Exhaust

In exhaust ventilation, everything happens the other way around. The flow of fresh air into the house occurs naturally. For this purpose, vents and ventilation shafts with holes in the walls are installed. But the used air masses are forcibly drawn out of the rooms using a mechanical hood with a fan.

The main disadvantage of this option is that cold from the street is drawn into the house during the winter along with fresh air coming from outside. If the cottage is built in an area with a cold climate and low winter temperatures, then this moment will have to be compensated for by a large volume of heat from heaters. And this means additional heating costs.

However, if the flow of cold street air is not allowed through the vents directly in the external walls, but through the underground, then it will warm up a little on the way to the living rooms. And the problem will not be so serious. But when designing, it is extremely important to calculate this issue and provide for everything in advance.

Design features of exhaust ventilation

Supply and exhaust

The combined version consists of two forced subsystems. One is used for air supply, and the second for exhaust. They can be separated, each on its own, and intersecting in the recuperator.

This is the most difficult ventilation to design and install. It requires complex calculations and a large number of air ducts. However, by using it, the owner of the cottage guarantees himself the most comfortable microclimate in his home. This system allows you to automatically control all parameters of room air. It is not for nothing that it is often chosen as one of the elements of a “smart home”.

To reduce the cost of heating air drawn in from the street in winter, supply and exhaust ventilation is usually supplemented with a recuperator. It takes some of the heat from the masses drawn out of the cottage and gives it back to those coming from outside. This greatly reduces heating costs, since almost all the thermal energy remains in the home and does not leave it.

How to equip supply and exhaust ventilation in a private house

Preparation for installation of ventilation in a private house

Proper ventilation is one that is correctly designed at the very beginning. Errors made in the calculations will later be either practically impossible or too expensive to correct. It’s better to do everything according to all the rules from the beginning.

You can use a variety of materials for cladding the base. There are no special building codes here. But the design for a ventilation system or a pile foundation must be calculated in compliance with the mass of SNiPs and GOSTs. Otherwise, the cottage will not stand for a long time or living in it will simply be uncomfortable.

When designing home ventilation, you should consider:

1. The presence of a stove or fireplace in the room.
2. The cubic capacity of each room and the cottage as a whole.
3. Number of residents.
4. The need to integrate air filters into the system and their type.
5. Individual architectural features of the building and much more.

According to standards, in the residential premises of a cottage, the entire volume of air must be changed at least once per hour (the air exchange rate is “1”). For utility rooms, basements and corridors, this coefficient is reduced to “0.2”.

In the kitchen, the air should change at a speed of 60–100 m3/hour, depending on the type of stove. Moreover, if the latter is gas, then replacement should be carried out with a frequency of at least three times per hour according to the volume of the kitchen space. In bathrooms and toilets, the air exchange should be 25–50 m3/hour.

Forced exhaust ventilation in the kitchen

For intra-house sewerage, ventilation is arranged separately by removing the ventilation pipe from a common riser. It is also separately recommended to install a ventilation duct for the hood above the kitchen stove. Moreover, it is impossible to connect the air duct from it and from the bathroom in the same shaft. This can lead to sewer odor escaping into the kitchen.

When preparing the project, it is also necessary to take into account the size of the ventilation ducts and their throughput, the power of the heating system and the dimensions of the fans. There will be a lot of parameters to calculate. And all of them must be accurate and error-free, otherwise the ventilation efficiency will not be as desirable.

For a small one-story house with several rooms, you can make a similar calculation yourself. You need to take the cubic capacity of the rooms and multiply it by the appropriate coefficients, plus add the air exchange volumes for the kitchen and toilet.

However, it is better to order a ventilation project for a large house from specialists in this field with relevant engineering knowledge. Here the cost of an error can be too high.

DIY ventilation

Having a ready-made project in hand, installing ventilation in a private house yourself is not so difficult. Ventilation ducts are assembled from corrugated pipes or individual metal or PVC elements of rectangular cross-section. All this just needs to be put together as a constructor.

To simplify the installation of air ducts, the following are now available:

• channels of different lengths and sections;
• a variety of connectors with and without built-in valves;
• knees with different rotation angles;
• tees and transitions;
• vent grates;
• holders and hangers.

All this must be connected to each other and to a ventilation unit, duct fan or recuperator. There should be a minimum of difficulties.

Ventilation diagram in a private house

Installation is carried out step by step in the following order:

1. The holes in the walls and partitions are marked, where the ventilation ducts will run according to the plan.
2. The centerlines of future air ducts are drawn on the walls and ceiling, indicating turns and branches.
3. The installation location of the ventilation unit is marked (for a forced system).
4. Drilling of walls is carried out, as well as fastening of suspensions and brackets.
5. The channels are cut and connected to each other, the joints are fixed with self-tapping screws and the entire structure is subsequently secured to the holders.
6. Ventilation lines are connected to the equipment.
7. Diffusers and grilles are installed.
8. The ventilation equipment is connected to the electrical network and the system is tested.

To protect air duct outlets from debris and precipitation on the street, caps, nets and deflectors are mounted on them. At the same time, outdoor sections of ventilation ducts, shafts and pipes are subject to insulation. If this is not done, then condensation will form in them, which will inevitably lead to problems.

It is not difficult to make ventilation in your cottage yourself. If you have a project with a specification of the required materials and a plan, then there should not be any special difficulties.

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A properly installed ventilation system is the key to comfortable living in a home. Fresh air, optimal humidity and the absence of unpleasant odors are its main tasks. Today we will talk about how to install the system yourself. , a diagram that is optimally suited for each room, and recommendations from professionals - all this is in our material.

Read in the article:

Why are ventilation systems needed in a private home?

For those who still doubt whether installing ventilation in a private house is necessary, we will give a simple example. Breathable air contains about 60 percent oxygen. The remaining 40 are gases that either have no effect on the body or cause harm to it. Our body consumes oxygen from the air and returns carbon dioxide to the atmosphere.

In addition, in a room with insufficient air circulation, harmful bacteria and viruses actively multiply.

Many parents, who wrap up their children too zealously and close all the windows and vents, cannot understand why their child, nevertheless, is constantly sick. The answer is simple - in the stuffy atmosphere of a sealed room, pathogenic organisms feel excellent and successfully attack their prey. They take as their allies the smallest particles of dust, which freely enter the tissues of the lungs and nasopharynx and settle there, causing a cough and a constant runny nose.

Sometimes diseases take a chronic form. But installing ventilation in a private home will help solve all these problems, and the entire structure will cost much less than a full set of medications for treating family members.

In addition to harm to humans, the tightness of premises also causes damage to the structure itself. The lack of normal air exchange leads to the growth of mold and mildew, the destruction of all natural finishing materials and walls. Excessive moisture affects the plaster, which cracks and peels off from the base. Ventilation projects for private houses provide for the specific purpose of each room and create the necessary microclimate in the bathroom, kitchen, boiler room and living rooms.

Types of ventilation systems

According to the basic principle of operation, ventilation systems can be divided into three types:

Let's take a closer look at the design principles of each of these systems.

Natural ventilation device in a private house

Installing natural ventilation in a private house with your own hands should be considered at the stage of designing the house. During the construction of walls, ventilation shafts are laid or pipes are fixed if the house is not made of brick. The system works effectively due to the difference in air pressure and temperature inside and outside the building. Advantages and disadvantages of the system:

For natural air exchange, the diameter of the air duct must be at least 13 centimeters. The installation holes are located under the ceiling.

An approximate diagram of natural ventilation in a private house:

The optimal option is one in which a common air duct is located inside the central wall, to which ventilation ducts from all rooms are connected.

“The fewer horizontal bends in the system, the more efficient it works.”

Another important point is that the exhaust pipe must be sufficiently insulated. If it is made of brick, then the recommended thickness of the masonry is two and a half bricks. Metal and plastic hoods are insulated with mineral wool. This is necessary so that on frosty days the air duct does not cool down and continues to operate effectively.

The height of the ventilation duct is selected relative to the height of the ridge. To determine the dimensions of the pipe, you need to draw a horizontal line from the ridge, and then another straight line with a rise of 10 degrees. The top point will be the desired value.

Important! The natural ventilation channel for a fireplace or gas boiler must be larger than usual, at least 13 by 26 centimeters. Its masonry is made as airtight as possible.

Features of forced ventilation in a private house

Equipment for forced air exchange is in most cases located in the attic. But there are cases when forced ventilation is installed in the basement of a private house. Usually one powerful device is installed, which will provide exhaust throughout the entire system or be placed in each air duct. In this case, the influx of fresh atmosphere is carried out through windows and vents.

Advice! If doorways in rooms are equipped with baseboards, they should have grilles for unimpeded air penetration.

The system requires installation of additional equipment:

• protective grilles and nets against insects and rodents;
• filters that trap dust, pollen and other allergens;
• cold air flow control valves;
• exhaust fans;
• material that absorbs vibration and sounds;
• air heaters (work in winter);
• air ducts;
• automation units for system control.

To obtain the desired effect, you should choose a forced air exchange system that is most suitable for your home. Here are some possible options:

Expert opinion

HVAC design engineer (heating, ventilation and air conditioning) ASP North-West LLC

“A large general ventilation unit should be located as far as possible from living rooms. Even very good insulation will not make it silent.”

The main requirement for arranging forced ventilation: air masses must move from residential premises (rooms) to non-residential premises (kitchen, bathroom).

Types of systems and their schemes

It is not easy to draw up a diagram of a ventilation system in a private house. This task requires special knowledge and understanding of the correct placement of air ducts, heat exchangers and fans. The efficiency of air exchange depends on the correct layout.

“If you do not have experience in designing such systems, entrust this task to professionals. You can carry out the installation on your own, but only a specialist can plan everything correctly.”

Basic rules to follow:

• in the chain of ventilation ducts, non-residential premises should be the last;
• the exhaust pipe must be higher than the roof ridge;
• the dimensions of the air ducts are calculated using special formulas;
• Air ducts must be carefully warmed and soundproofed, otherwise the wind will howl in the house.

Supply ventilation in a private house: operating principle and diagram

The supply air exchange system includes several components: an air duct, fittings and the supply chamber itself. The dimensions of the device are relatively small, and such ventilation will not spoil the external and internal appearance of the house.

Important aspect! Incoming air flows must have a temperature of at least 18 degrees. Such an air flow will not disturb the comfortable atmosphere in the room and will not cause colds or drafts. In the case of forced air supply, elements must be built into the system to heat it to the required temperature. Previously, such devices were installed, but in modern construction they have been replaced by recuperators. The principle of their operation is the heat exchange between incoming and outgoing flows through a system of filters and plates.

In a private house, the forced ventilation system has its own characteristics. Usually in a country house there are many household premises with special functions. Unlike a city apartment, it contains a boiler room, a basement, a residential attic, a swimming pool or bathhouse and other objects necessary for the owners. These rooms have different humidity and temperatures, and combining them with one air exchange system is not easy.

It is for this reason that special requirements are put forward in the house:

1. It must be powerful enough to serve the entire house.
2. An extensive system must provide for the characteristics of different rooms.
3. The home owner must have the ability to remotely or manually control air exchange.
4. The design must take into account seasonal temperature changes and heat the house in winter and cool in summer.

Related article:

In the article we will consider in detail the types of structures, the principle of operation, how to choose a place for installation, how to properly install the device with your own hands, useful tips and recommendations from specialists.

Principles of exhaust ventilation in a private home and video instructions for installing the hood

Hoods are used to remove exhaust air. It is especially important to install them in rooms where odors actively spread and an unhealthy atmosphere reigns - in the kitchen, in the boiler room, in the bathroom. To forcefully eliminate air masses, you will need a fairly powerful fan and an exhaust hood directed toward the street.

One hood can be installed on a maximum of two heating devices, but representatives of regulatory authorities have the right to require you to install separate chimneys for each device. It is better to do just that, because we are talking about your safety.

Important! If exhaust ventilation through the walls to the street is installed in the boiler room, it must have a sealed air duct so that combustion products do not penetrate into other ducts and rooms. All seams and joints are additionally treated with sealant. In places where the chimney comes into contact with the roofing material, fire-resistant gaskets are installed to prevent fire.

For forced ventilation of the chimney, a fan with a check valve and a fire-resistant asbestos-cement pipe are used. It is acceptable to use metal pipes.

Important! Under no circumstances should plastic pipes be used for exhaust hood in a boiler room or kitchen; they are not heat-resistant and burn easily, releasing toxic fumes.

Nuances of supply and exhaust ventilation in a private house

It is believed that this principle of organizing air exchange is the most productive. Removal of used air masses and injection of new ones occurs simultaneously.

There are two schemes for supply and exhaust ventilation. In the first case, two air ducts are simply installed in the room under the ceiling. Air enters through one hole, and out through another. Both processes occur with the help of fans. In the second case, the supply flow is located at the bottom of the wall. The fan blows in fresh air, and the exhaust air is removed through the air duct by the ceiling naturally. This system works especially effectively in houses with unusually high ceilings.

We focus on each room - what is needed for ventilation?

As already mentioned, in a private house there are many rooms with different purposes. Their features should be taken into account when planning the ventilation system. Let's take a closer look at each case.

Ventilation in a private house in the kitchen: the main thing is the hood

The kitchen is a hot shop, in which there is always a lot of steam, heat, smoke and odors. If you are preparing a festive dinner for guests or the oven is running at full power, you literally can’t breathe.

Advice! You shouldn’t limit yourself to just a kitchen hood in a private home. It must be combined with a general ventilation system. This will prevent food odors from entering other rooms.

Setting up ventilation in the kitchen is not difficult. Here are some recommendations from practitioners:

1. It is better to select the hood body from aluminum.
2. The filters in the device above the stove must be cleaned at least two to three times a year.
3. It is best to choose a device with adjustable fan speed. This will allow you to use different methods of air purification depending on its pollution.
4. You should periodically check the efficiency of the ventilation duct using a burning match or piece of paper. If the flame draws in or paper sticks to the grill, the ventilation is working properly.
5. For large kitchens with an area of ​​more than 15 square meters, several exhaust ducts are provided.

Video instructions on how to properly install a hood over the stove:

Installation of ventilation in the toilet and bathroom

The atmosphere of the bathroom and toilet is saturated with bacteria and microbes, which, accumulating in a small space, attack not only the human body, but also finishing materials. After taking a bath, the walls remain damp for a long time, and in the absence of a high-quality exhaust hood, the smell in the toilet is unbearable.

To install bathroom ventilation you will need:

• ventilation shaft that goes to the roof. The ventilation duct must be straight and even; only this shape will allow air flow to move unhindered. Its optimal dimensions are from one to two meters;
• external grille with inclined louvres, which protects the channel from atmospheric moisture;
• internal grille with adjustable flap.

For your information! In the bathroom you can install a natural and forced ventilation system. Forced, of course, is more effective.

Important points in installing ventilation in the toilet of a private house:

1. For installation, low-noise devices with a maximum value of 30 decibels are used.
2. The ventilation duct is placed opposite the front door. This ensures maximum draft and proper distribution of fresh air.
3. All duct equipment is placed at a safe distance from heating devices. Ventilation materials cannot withstand temperatures above fifty degrees, unless it is a specialized device for baths and saunas.
4. The power of the ventilation device is selected depending on the intensity of use and the size of the room.
5. In the bathroom, it is justified to install motion and air humidity sensors and timers on the fans.

Advice! Before designing an air exchange system in a bathroom, read the requirements of SNiP 01/41/2003. This document describes all the requirements for ventilation in a bathroom in a private house.

Ventilation in the basement of a private house: important points

All owners of country houses are interested in the question: how to make ventilation in the basement of a private house? A workshop, laundry room, and boiler room can be located in the basement of a country house. In the basement, many housewives store homemade canned food and vegetables for the winter.

Dampness provokes the development of mold and destruction of the walls of the basement and basement. In order to create a normal atmosphere in the basement, it is necessary to provide vents or vents even at the stage of pouring the foundation of the house. They are located on opposite sides of the base. If there are partitions inside the basement space, there should be vents in them too. The vents are located under the ceiling of the basement, at a distance of 20-30 centimeters from the ground level and must be equipped with rodent bars, otherwise your winter supplies will not be preserved until serving.

For your information! Another real threat to the basement is an explosion of heating equipment if the boiler room is located in this room. Only high-quality ventilation will prevent the accumulation of dangerous gases in the event of an emergency and prevent the fire from spreading throughout the entire house.

The area of ​​the vents can be easily calculated by dividing the area of ​​the basement by 400. The recommended diameter of one hole is 12 centimeters. And it is worth remembering that the effectiveness of their work will directly depend on the prevailing winds on the site, so they should be positioned accordingly. Among other things, when planning vents, one should take into account the characteristics of groundwater, seasonal temperature changes and the amount of precipitation.

Important! To prevent water from pouring into the vents during a rainstorm, install canopies on them and make an inclined blind area that removes moisture from the foundation.

Important information about boiler room ventilation

The main tasks of ventilation for a gas boiler in a private house:

• regulation of carbon monoxide levels. Even if its percentage exceeds 0.2%, this threatens with serious consequences for the human body, including respiratory arrest;
• preventing the occurrence of reverse draft, in which combustion products enter the room;
• providing the room with the oxygen necessary for breathing. In addition, oxygen is also important for the operation of the boiler, because it is in its presence that combustion processes are possible.

An object with a high level of fire risk must be equipped only with a forced air exchange system. Natural ventilation is not suitable here due to its low efficiency.

In order for the heating device to operate normally, the atmosphere in the room needs to be changed three times per hour. Each chimney is equipped with two openings. The upper one is intended for removing gases, the lower one is for periodic cleaning of soot and soot.

“Before installing the ventilation duct, study the boiler data sheet. It specifies all the requirements for chimney installation. Calculate the boiler room ventilation taking into account all the recommendations.”

All chimney elements are made of fire-resistant materials. To increase the efficiency of the device, a coaxial chimney with two air ducts is installed on floor-standing boilers.

Proper organization of air ducts in the attic

Unobstructed air exchange will prevent the formation of condensation under the roof. This will extend its service life and save you from the need for constant repairs. In winter, the roof will not be covered with ice, and in summer, good ventilation will prevent it from overheating from the sun's rays.

To properly organize attic ventilation in a private home, use perforated soffits. They look neat and decorative, and in addition, they do not allow insects to pass through. In addition to these elements, roof aerators and ventilated ridges are used.

Advice! If soft roofing material is used for the covering, small gaps are made in the counter-lattice to allow air to penetrate.

In the most difficult areas of the roof with a complex geometric shape, point aeration devices are used.

Some tips from roofing professionals:

• attic ventilation should be protected from dust; it quickly absorbs moisture and adversely affects the insulation of the roof;
• all attic vents must be equipped with protection against birds, insects and fallen leaves;
• ventilation ducts must have the same size along their entire length. Any restriction will adversely affect the efficiency of the system;
• When the roof length is over 10 meters, it is recommended to use forced ventilation of the space under the roof.

How to make ventilation ducts for sewers and cesspools

Many people believe that the main task of cesspool ventilation in a private house is simply to eliminate unpleasant odors. This is only partly true. Proper air exchange promotes rapid decomposition of waste and reduces pressure in the local sewerage pipeline. Excess methane, a product of organic matter decomposition, can lead to fire.

To remove exhaust gases, high risers are installed in the right place. They are installed not only in the country toilet, but also in an autonomous waste processing system - in septic tanks and closed tanks.

Important! The height of the sewer ventilation riser should exceed the height of the roof by at least 70 centimeters, and the riser itself should not be located near windows.

If it is not possible to install a riser above the roof, use ventilation valves that open as the atmosphere becomes thinner. The ventilation duct for sewerage can be made of plastic; ordinary sewer pipes are suitable for this.

Air exchange in the basement and foundation

We have already talked about how to improve air exchange in the basement. But what about foundation ventilation in a private house without a basement? In fact, in this case it is necessary to ensure normal air exchange. It will protect floor joists from rot and prevent the accumulation of harmful gases and dampness under the floor.

To ventilate the basement floor of a private house, the same vents with protective grilles are used. They are laid at the time of pouring the foundation on opposite sides. For this purpose, asbestos-cement or plastic pipes are used. At the time of pouring, they are filled with sand so that they do not deform and the solution does not get inside.

How to ventilate a pool

A swimming pool is a special room in which there will be high humidity and temperature. These conditions dictate special requirements for ventilation of a swimming pool in a private home. Only properly organized air exchange will prevent the growth of fungus, which will like the climate of this room. If its growth is not stopped, the spores will cause severe allergic reactions among home owners, and all finishing materials will be destroyed literally before our eyes.

For your information! Favorable air temperature in the pool is 28-32 degrees Celsius. Permissible humidity is 64 percent.

There should be no draft in the room with the pool; this is important for a comfortable stay in it. A swimming pool is one of the most difficult areas to design. For this reason, it is better to entrust the development of a ventilation scheme to specialists.

How to make ventilation in a private house: calculations and step-by-step installation

To calculate ventilation in private houses, you will need some basic values. These are the parameters of each room, its purpose and performance standards for natural and forced air exchange.

Ventilation ducts for passive air exchange are located vertically and go from each room to the roof. In a living space, the atmosphere must be completely renewed every hour.

“To calculate forced ventilation, you will need to sum up the required air exchange rates for each room, taking into account its area, and based on the resulting amount, select equipment that will cope with this task.”

For example: a house has three rooms, a kitchen, a bathroom and a boiler room. We calculate the productivity for each room in accordance with its purpose and area:

• kitchen -90 cubic meters per hour;
• bathroom – 50 cubic meters per hour;
• boiler room - 70 cubic meters per hour;
• children's room - 40 cubic meters per hour;
• living room - 120 cubic meters per hour;
• bedroom - 60 cubic meters per hour.

Total - 430 cubic meters per hour for the whole house. Therefore, for the successful operation of the ventilation system, an installation capable of handling such a volume of air will be required. You can install one unit or divide the power according to the needs of each room and install the units separately.

An example of how to properly make ventilation in a private house in the following video:

Before deciding how to make a hood in a private house, read the standards SNiP 02/31/2001 and ABOK 2/1/2008. They suggest using it to calculate the air exchange rate. The indicators in these documents differ somewhat, so for independent calculations it is better to choose a larger value.

Features of do-it-yourself ventilation schemes in a private house, depending on the specifics of the building design

1. If the air exchange system is combined into one, the design of the ventilation system in a private house should provide for the movement of air from “clean” rooms to “dirty” ones. That is, from living rooms to the bathroom, boiler room and kitchen.
2. Supply valves are placed in every room where there is no hood.
3. If the building has two or more floors, ventilation ducts are placed according to the basic principles.
4. Natural ventilation through vents is provided for the basement, basement, and foundation.
5. Passive ventilation exhaust ducts are located strictly vertically.
6. For uniform draft, the exhaust channels must be of the same length without narrowing or widening.

To minimize heat loss, ventilation shafts are carefully insulated, especially in places where they open onto the street.

Do-it-yourself ventilation installation in the house

Some difficulties may arise during the work. The main problem is the weight of the equipment for forced ventilation. Sometimes one craftsman is not able to lift and install the unit. That is why take care in advance of an assistant and a lifting mechanism that will make the task easier. You can assemble the unit step by step. The structural units are assembled on the ground and installed sequentially according to the diagram. Do-it-yourself supply and exhaust ventilation is installed using some special equipment.

In a frame house the task is greatly simplified. Installing fresh air ventilation with your own hands will only require the use of a stepladder, drill and jigsaw.

Features of installation work

If ventilation in a private house passes through brick walls, it is better to install ventilation ducts during the construction process, so as not to have to deal with labor-intensive and expensive drilling later. Use templates made of cardboard or wood during the laying process so that all air ducts have the same cross-section. Lay out the inside of the air duct with solid bricks, carefully sealing all joints.

To bring the ventilation outlet to the roof of a private house, you can use asbestos-cement pipes. They are connected to the ventilation duct in the wall and carefully secured, cementing the entire structure.

Important! Make sure that the cross-section at the joints of the ventilation duct does not change. To do this, remove excess solution and make sure that the inner surface of the air duct is smooth.

And, of course, do not forget about your own safety while working:

• do not work on the roof in icy or rainy weather;
• if the roof slope is more than 20 degrees, use insurance;
• when drilling walls, use a hidden wiring sensor;
• When using a jigsaw or drill, use protective glasses and gloves.

How to choose pipes for ventilation

When choosing pipes, the following basic requirements should be taken into account:

• section size;
• heat resistance;
• tightness;
• compliance with sanitary standards.

Round pipes are an easily available material with good aerodynamics. Most often, ventilation in a private house is made from sewer pipes. Air ducts with a square and rectangular cross-section are more difficult to find, but you can make them yourself from a stainless steel sheet. It is easier to install such pipes for ventilation in private houses in right angles and under the ceiling.

Now about the pipe material. Galvanized steel air ducts are resistant to corrosion and temperature changes. Stainless steel is suitable for hoods in “hot” rooms – boiler rooms and kitchens. A plastic vent hood is the cheapest option and is ideal for wet areas.

Article

The use of new building materials and technologies has made our homes much warmer, but has limited the flow of fresh air into the premises. After purchasing a house or apartment, we traditionally install new metal-plastic windows, thereby completely isolating ourselves from the street. Having completed useful measures to insulate the house, you need to ensure the flow of clean air into it. It is quite possible to organize supply ventilation with your own hands; you should study the issue and choose how to do it.

How does ventilation work in residential buildings?

There are two types of exhaust and supply ventilation:

1. With natural urge. For exhaust and supply, the phenomenon of convection is used, when heated air, which has less mass, rises upward.
2. With artificial (mechanical) motivation. Fans provide air movement.

An example of natural ventilation in an apartment

Most apartment and private buildings are equipped with natural exhaust. For this purpose, vertical channels are used, the entrances to which are located in the bathroom and kitchen areas in the form of gratings installed under the ceiling. The exits are located on the roof of the building. The height difference and the temperature difference between the external and internal air cause draft in the duct, which creates a vacuum in the room. Natural supply ventilation in this case was provided through leaks or special cutouts in wooden windows.

New windows and tight entrance doors seal the apartment, blocking access to fresh air from outside. At the same time, the scheme of operation of the supply ventilation changes, as air masses begin to flow into the kitchen or bathroom from other rooms. A new air balance is established in the house with a slight negative pressure. It often happens that as a result, a vertical shaft of a larger cross-section (usually a kitchen one) overturns the draft of a smaller channel in the toilet and a cold stream begins to flow from there in winter. The phenomenon is especially noticeable in strong winds; its impact increases the draft and the bathroom becomes very cold.

Fresh air supply system through metal-plastic windows

Many homeowners believe that the ventilation device consists of installing an axial fan instead of an exhaust shaft grille. In the absence of an influx from the street, the fans of the bathroom and kitchen hood alternately overturn the draft of another shaft, sucking air masses from the roof through it. A surrogate supply ventilation is formed, with unpurified (and cold in winter) air randomly entering the house. When the fans operate simultaneously, there is no influx from the street at all, but due to the vacuum created, unpleasant odors from neighbors may appear in the apartment.

For reference: the installation of vertical exhaust shafts provides only one entrance in one apartment and one exit on the roof. The opinion that several apartments are connected to the shaft is erroneous; each kitchen and bathroom room has its own channel.

Foreign odors do not penetrate through ventilation ducts, but through the passages of gas or heating risers. An extreme case - one of the neighbors, in violation of all norms, made a hole from their bathroom into your exhaust shaft. In private houses this phenomenon does not happen, and the lack of inflow is not so noticeable, since the volume of the premises is larger. But the processes proceed similarly and the parameters of the internal microclimate are no better.

Conclusion: Supply ventilation must be installed in any building in which people live or work. Without inflow, the hood will not function.

Ways to organize inflow in an apartment

If your house has metal-plastic windows with ventilation, you can make fresh ventilation yourself in the simplest way:

1. Opening the sash, you can see two rubber seals laid along the contour of the window frame. In the lower part, use a knife to carefully cut out a section of the outer seal up to 50 mm long, no more. To do this, the rubber is trimmed on both sides and removed. You shouldn't throw it away so you can always put it back.
2. In the upper part of the frame, cut and remove a section of the internal seal of the same length. Close the sash.

Video on topic

The principle of operation is as follows: through the lower slot, air from the street enters the space between the window frame and the frame, limited on the sides by two seals. When heated, it rises and enters the room through the second slot in the internal seal. The result is primitive supply ventilation, thanks to which the exhaust shafts will begin to function normally.

You can make an inflow device in another way - purchase a supply valve that cuts into the window structure. The principle of its operation is the same, only the valve is inserted from the inside into the upper part of the frame profile. A groove is cut from the outside at the bottom of the frame. To prevent rainwater or snow from getting into the latter, a visor is fixed above the groove. Installing the supply valve with your own hands is not difficult; the installation procedure is given in the instructions for the product.

Fresh air valve

The above methods have their drawbacks:

• air enters the house randomly, sometimes simply from the blowing wind;
• passing the path from the entrance to the exit, the air does not heat up enough;
• there is no cleaning; dust and gases from the street enter directly into the room.

The use of local air supply units will ensure proper ventilation in the apartment. The installation is a device that contains an axial fan, an air purification filter and an electric heater. To select an air supply unit based on performance, you need to calculate the air flow.

If the apartment does not have exhaust fans, then the calculation is based on the volume of the room. For living rooms, hallways and bedrooms, it is necessary to ensure a complete replacement of air once an hour, this is called the air exchange rate. That is, a 3 by 4 m room with a height of 2.7 m has a volume of 32.4 m 3 and requires the same amount of air per hour. The exchange rate for the kitchen is taken to be 1.5–2, depending on the number of burners on the stove. For a shared bathroom, a consumption of 50 m 3 / h for the toilet and 25 m 3 / h for the bathroom is assumed.

Exhaust fans

Local air supply units come in two types: wall-mounted and suspended. But in any case, installing supply ventilation will require making a hole in the outer wall of the room. The diameter of the hole depends on the type of air supply unit and its performance; for drilling you will need a drill with an annular drill bit for concrete. The installation location is chosen at your own discretion, but it is better to place the device at a height of no more than 1.5 m from the floor. Units built into the wall should be placed closer to the window, since the filter element in them is replaced from the outside.

Air supply to a private house

To ensure that fresh air ventilation works in a country house, all of the methods described above are suitable. An exception is cottages of medium and large sizes or those houses in which a boiler is used for heating, taking combustion air from the room. Here we are talking about large air flows; local installations will not be able to provide it. It is necessary to carry out calculations and install supply ventilation, which will supply air masses to all rooms. For this purpose, stationary supply units are used.

There are a large number of schemes and methods for placing equipment and organizing air exchange. The simplest of them involves installing an inflow in the main corridor or hallway. Taking advantage of the fact that the hallway communicates with almost all rooms, heated and purified air can be supplied into it, which will be distributed throughout all rooms of the building. But first you need to calculate the air mass flow rate for the inflow. To do this, you can use the method described above, but to the resulting result you must add the air flow for the operation of the boiler. If the house has local exhaust fans, then their performance values ​​must be included in the calculation.

After summing up all the costs, you can select equipment. The issue is resolved in two ways:

1. Buy a fan, filter, heater and automation devices separately and assemble the ventilation in a separate room.
2. Purchase a ready-made air supply unit assembled, then the ventilation device will consist of its placement and the supply of air ducts.

The assembled unit is a compact insulated monoblock, inside of which there is all the equipment for processing air masses. The product can be hung from the ceiling, hidden under drywall, or placed outdoors. Such supply ventilation is more expensive, but it will save space in the house and a lot of your time, since air exchange using separate elements requires certain skills and knowledge.

Air handling unit

These elements will need to be installed, connected and connected to the heating system or electrical network of the house according to a certain scheme, to ensure automatic regulation of the supply air temperature. As a rule, a special room or part of another technical room is allocated for such systems, so air ducts will need to be laid from there to deliver the air where it is needed.

Conclusion

In order not to waste your money, it is recommended to involve specialist designers to organize air exchange in a country house; they will correctly calculate all the parameters and help you choose the right ventilation unit. Do-it-yourself natural supply ventilation is relevant for an apartment; in a private cottage it will not be enough.

Everything about ventilation in an apartment building How to properly install a hood in the kitchen Ventilation systems in a private house

The issue of ventilation of premises with the advent of plastic windows has become relevant due to the almost complete sealing of buildings. In cold conditions, this is not so bad, but in an unventilated room, mold, mildew, and pathogenic bacteria grow and it becomes unsuitable for comfortable living.

When building a private house with your own hands, at the design stage you can and should consider how it will be ventilated. After completion of construction work, solving this problem will be difficult, and in some cases impossible.

Types of ventilation

Ventilation is divided into three types:

Natural ventilation

occurs due to the property of warm layers of air to rise above cold ones. It involves laying ventilation ducts in the walls of the house through which air circulates. For a fireplace or stove, the air duct is made separately. The pipe should rise above the ridge, this will give additional traction.

The ventilation duct must be at least one and a half brick thick, and its cross-section must exceed 140 mm in order to avoid the reverse draft effect. 100 mm horizontal bends are made into the rooms, using plastic pipes.

The disadvantages of natural ventilation are the dependence on weather conditions - both temperature and pressure, as well as the low performance of the system. Its use makes sense in buildings made of expanded clay concrete, foam concrete, brick and wood, provided the ambient air is clean.

Suitable for small private low-rise houses, baths, saunas, outbuildings. Below is a typical ventilation diagram in a private house.

Forced or supply and exhaust ventilation

It is used in cases where the air needs to be cleaned of odors, dirt and dust particles, as well as in rooms with “non-breathable” walls made of concrete with polystyrene, SIP and 3D panels, sandwich and vacuum panels, in all types of frame houses. Supply ventilation uses a fan to create a pressure difference, a filter for cleaning the air entering the house and a recuperator, a device for heating the incoming flow.

It is recommended to use a different fan for each room in the house. For garages and boiler rooms, it is necessary to make a separate hood to avoid harmful substances from entering other rooms. The most intense ventilation should be in the kitchen, since the air there not only heats up, but also has a characteristic smell.

Mixed ventilation

Used when natural ventilation cannot provide sufficient air flow. As a rule, the hood is installed in rooms where condensation collects, the air is polluted, or where it is necessary to remove the smell - in the bathroom, basement, cellar, toilet, boiler room, as well as in the kitchen.

Usually, with a mixed ventilation device in private houses, only air inflow is forced, and outflow occurs naturally, or only part of the premises is ventilated. The use of a mixed ventilation system in large private wooden brick, foam block and stone houses is also justified.

Sanitary standards

Fresh air consumption per healthy adult is about 10 m3 per hour. If there is no oxygen flow, the well-being of people in the room worsens - drowsiness and headaches appear. This is due to the increased concentration of carbon dioxide in the air.

According to the standards in force since the 50s of the last century, for rooms up to 20 m2 with a ceiling height below 3 meters, the air composition must be completely renewed within an hour, that is, the air exchange rate is at least 20 * 3 = 60 m3 per hour . If the volume of the room exceeds 60 m3, then in a simplified form the air exchange rate is considered to be 3 m3/hour per 1 m3 of room volume. For toilets the norm is 50 m3/hour, for bathrooms 25 m3/hour, and for kitchens 90 m3/hour.

When building private houses, many people think that they will get by with ventilating the windows and do not do ventilation in the hope of saving money. Make no mistake about this - the atmosphere in the building in such cases will be very unhealthy. As a result, the treatment of respiratory diseases may cost significantly more money than what is saved.

In addition, there is such a radioactive inert gas - radon, which accumulates on the first floors of buildings. Also, if ventilation is not carried out regularly, the room will have variable humidity and temperature.

Features of installation in various rooms

When installing ventilation in the kitchen, the following nuances should be taken into account:

• the width of the slab and the exhaust dome must correspond to each other;
• the air in the kitchen should be completely renewed 6-12 times per hour;
• the distance between the stove and the hood should be 60-90 cm.

In the bathroom, it is necessary to take into account the increased humidity in the room and based on this:

• there should be no supply openings to prevent steam from flowing from the bathroom into other rooms;
• all wiring must be moisture-resistant or corrugated, the contacts must be carefully insulated;
• It is recommended to install a gyrostat to automate the operation of exhaust ventilation.

• the hole for ventilation is made as high as possible, ideally on the ceiling;
• it is advisable to combine the switch for lighting and for the hood so that they turn on simultaneously;
• the exhaust power must ensure a system capacity of at least 50 m3 for a separate toilet, and for a bathroom combined with a bathroom - at least 75 m3;
• when the ventilation ducts of the toilet and bathroom are located at the same level, they are combined into one air duct.

In basements, both natural and forced ventilation are used. If the basement is small, up to 50 m2, then it is quite possible to get by with natural air circulation.

Criteria for correct ventilation arrangement

• air is discharged from the ventilation duct on the roof;
• air intake in the forced system is made through a grille located at a level of 2-3 meters from the ground;
• air circulation is carried out from cleaner rooms to dirtier ones - from bedrooms and living rooms towards the kitchen, bathrooms, boiler rooms.
• forced ventilation in the kitchen is mandatory, especially where there are gas water heaters;
• All rooms in the building must be ventilated;
• the air in the house should not cool too quickly, there should be no strong drafts;
• Condensation should not form on the walls and ceilings, and odors from the premises should quickly disappear.

Based on the above criteria, a decision is made on the advisability of using forced, mixed or natural ventilation.

Photo of ventilation in a private house

Plastic windows and armored doors, on the one hand, maintain the desired temperature in the premises, and on the other hand, they create problems with air exchange. A well-designed hood in a private home will eliminate the feeling of mustiness and condensation. In most cases, this is the only way to create a healthy microclimate in it.

We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the options for exhaust devices that can improve the microclimate. Together with you, we will analyze the calculations using a specific example. We describe in detail the process of installing a forced version of the hood for those who want to do the installation themselves.

The information provided is based on regulatory requirements. The information is supplemented by illustrations, step-by-step photo guides, diagrams, tables and videos.

Both in public buildings and in private houses, different types of ventilation systems are used. They differ in purpose, in the method of activating air flow and moving air masses. , designed to supply clean air to the house, is called supply air.

The design, the function of which is to remove exhaust air outside the room, is called exhaust. Ventilation with recirculation has a special mission. In this case, part of the air removed from the room is mixed with external cold air masses, with further heating of this mixture to the set temperature and its return to the room.

Air movement occurs as a result of processes that occur naturally due to the displacement of heated air with a lighter weight from the room by cold air, which has a higher volumetric weight.

The flow in such a system moves at low speed, since the weight of the warm and cold mass differs by a small amount. ventilation with natural impulse is irrational to use if its horizontal length exceeds 8 m.

More effective is a system with artificial activation of air flow, ensured by the operation of fans. The air ducts in this case are longer and can pass through several rooms. System elements are most often placed in the attic. This option is justified for large buildings.

There is a division into ducted and ductless systems. In the first case, the air moves through channels and air ducts, in the second, there is no organized air movement. In this case, you have to open the window transoms and doors. Natural ventilation creates more comfortable conditions for the residents of the house.

Image gallery

A ventilation system focused on removing exhaust air mass frees up space for the intake of fresh air

According to the method of exhaust air removal, exhaust ventilation systems are divided into ducted and ductless

According to the type of inducing air flow to move, ventilation systems are natural, forced and combined. In natural versions, air moves without the use of mechanical means; in combined versions, mechanical means and the laws of physics are used

In forced versions of the exhaust ventilation device, air is removed due to the operation of a suction fan installed in the exhaust air duct

A powerful supply and exhaust system is usually located in the attic of the house. Air ducts are protected with foil thermal insulation

Forced exhaust systems are mainly used in rooms with unstable humidity and temperature. They are more than appropriate in kitchens

An exhaust fan in the bathroom will quickly reduce humidity, which will eliminate mold and protect finished building structures from destruction.

To check the operation of the natural system hood, simply attach a sheet of paper to the grille. If it is not pressed by the air flow, the exhaust duct does not work

If you have doubts about traditional means of verification, you should contact the management company to check the system using technical means

We will use a corrugated pipe to install the exhaust air duct. We try it on at the installation site and, if necessary, modify the hole

We mark the points of attachment of the dome after the fact, with the help of which we will mask the exhaust device with the air duct

We install dowels into the holes drilled according to the markings, into which we screw the screws.

We cut the corrugated exhaust duct in accordance with the required dimensions. Cutting with regular scissors

We attach the camouflage dome to its future location, check the horizontal and vertical lines and the length of the corrugation

We connect the hood inside the dome to the exhaust duct. First, slightly compress the corrugation so that it fits snugly, straightening out in the hole.