Northern Urals from the latitudinal section of the Shugor River to the upper reaches of the Pechora. Northern Urals from the latitudinal section of the Shchugor River to the upper reaches of the Pechora Rocks Upper Gate of the Shchugor River
Tel-Poz-Iz, the most significant peak of the Northern Urals (1617 m). Located near the conventional border of the Northern
The Urals and the Subpolar on the left bank of the Shchugor. The name literally translated from the Komi language means “Mountain of the Nest of the Winds” (from - “stone”, “mountain”, “ridge”, pos - “nest”, tol - “wind”). It is usually translated into Russian simply as “Nest of the Winds.” This is a figurative name: the Tel-Poz-Iza area is known for bad weather - fierce winds often blow from the top of the mountain, carrying clouds, rain or snow.
According to the notes of A. Reguli, this mountain is called Ne-Hekhe in Nenets - “Woman Idol”, “Baba Idol”. Its Mansi name Ne-Pupyg-Ner or Ne-Pupyg-Ur is considered as a translation from Nenets, since it literally means “Mountain of the woman-idol”. E. K. Hoffman cites the Mansi legend that God turned a woman who contradicted her husband in everything into a stone idol, and forbade the Mansi to climb this peak: “If anyone dares to do this, such a storm will arise that the daredevil will fly into the abyss." The Komi, according to local historian P.A. Sorokin, also believe that no one can climb to the top of Tel-Poz-Iza, since the god Shua, or Voipel, the god of wind and cold, lives in this mountain, who does not like noise and does not allows people to break into their home. On one of the peaks of Tel-Poz-Iza there are supposedly traces of huge feet. These footprints are attributed to the god Shua. Passing through the Urals past Tel-Poz-Iza, the Komi tried not to make noise. If Shua “hears a noise, then a terrible wind and snow will rise, and people must die, or they will turn into stone.” So, in the form of a legend, advice was given to reindeer herders to stay away from this dangerous mountain. By the way, she is not alone. In the Subpolar Urals there is a place that in various sources is called Tylaruz or Tel-Ruz, which translated from the Komi language means “Wind Hole” (tӧla - “windy”, ruz - “hole”). This is a huge trough-shaped valley, so named by reindeer herders because of the constant winds blowing in it.
Some researchers believe that Mount Pillar, which the Russian commander of the 15th-16th centuries Prince Semyon Kurbsky spoke about, is Tel-Poz-Iz, but this assumption is difficult to prove.
Along Mount Tel-Poz-Iz, a meridionally elongated mountain range, starting at the left bank of the Shchugor River and going to the top of the Podcherem River, is often called the Telpos chain or the Telpossky, or more precisely, the Telpozsky ridge, although, according to geologist E. D. Soshkina, the Komi are called Tel-Poz-Izom only the northern highest part of the ridge, the rest is called Sed-Iz - “Black Ridge” (Komi sӧd - “black”).
Yanyg-Tuit-Ner, a mountain on the Telpoz ridge, 6 km south of Tel-Poz-Iza. Translated from Mansi - “Big Snow Stone”.
Khalmer-Sale, a mountain on the Telpoz ridge, 13 km south of Tel-Poz-Iza at the top of the left tributary of the Shchugor of the Khalmerya River.
The name is of Nenets origin, meaning in translation “Spur (cape) of the dead man” (halmer - “dead man”, salya - “cape”, “spur”, in Russian translation - sale, cf. Salekhard and Nenets Salya kharad). E.K. Hoffman and D.F. Yuryev give in the Mansi design - Halmer-sale-urr (Mansi ur - “mountain, ridge, usually covered with forest”).
Hora-Iz, mountain (1326 m) on the Telpoz ridge, 18 km south of Mount Tel-Poz-Iz.
The name is from the Komi language: in the Izhem dialect of the khora - “reindeer bull over two years old”, from - “stone”, “mountain”, “ridge”, that is, “Oleniy Kamen” or, more precisely, “Stone of the deer-bull” . The name, like many other oronyms of the Northern Urals, is associated with the reindeer herding life of the northern peoples.
Ossya-Ur, a mountain 5 km southwest of Mount Hora-Iz. Mansi name meaning “Narrow Mountain” (osya - “narrow”, ur - “mountain, ridge, usually covered with forest”).
Tuytym-Nyor, more precisely Tuytyng-Nyor, is a mountain on the Telpoz ridge, 16 km south of Mount Khora-Iz.
Mansi tuityng - “snowy”, ner - “stone mountain”, “ridge”, therefore, “Snow Stone”.
Miron-Van-Ner, a mountain in the upper reaches of the Podcherem River, 30 km southwest from Mount Hora-Iz.
Most likely a hybrid oronym in which the personal name Miron-Van - “Ivan Mironovich” - goes back to the Komi language, and the geographical term ner - “stone mountain”, “ridge” - to the Mansi language.
Khora-Sur, a mountain in the interfluve of the Big Turupya and Tuyahlanya, the left tributaries of the Yatria, 45 km east of Mount Tel-Poz-Iz.
Komi-Izhemsk hora - “deer bull over two years old”, sur - “horn”, therefore, “Deer (bull) horn”. The name is clearly given by the shape of the mountain, reminiscent of a curved deer antler, and even with a small appendage.
Somyakh-Nyor, a mountain on the right bank of the Shchugor River, 20 km east of Mount Tel-Poz-Iz. In cartographic sources and scientific publications there are also Sumyakhner, Sumakhner, Summakhner, Suomyakh-ner and others. Mansi somyakh - “barn”, ner - “stone mountain”, “ridge”, that is, “Garn-Stone” or “Garn Stone”. Wed. Somyakh-Nel.
Sastum-Ner, in the sources of the 19th-20th centuries Sastem-Ner, Sastem-Nier, Sostem-Ner, Sastemner, a ridge of meridional direction on the right bank of the Shchugor River between the Somyakh-Ner and Khosa-Ner ridges. North and south of Sastum-Nyor originate the sources of the Volya, a large tributary of the Northern Sosva. In the Mansi language, sastum means “smooth”, “even”, therefore, Sastum-Ner means “Smooth Stone”, “Smooth Stone”.
Khosa-Nyor, also Khosa-Yalpyng-Nyor, a ridge up to 40 km long, running in the meridional direction along the right bank of the Shchugor south of the sources of the Volya and the Sastum-Ner ridge. In some sources - Khosaner ridge.
Translated from Mansi - “Long Stone”, “Long Holy Stone” (“Long Prayer Stone”).
Nyor-Oyka, also Oyka-Nyor, mountain (936 m) in the upper reaches of the Yanyg-Manya and Tolya rivers, the right tributaries of the Volya. Translated from Mansi - “Master of the Mountains”, “Old Man Ural”. One of the Mansi “Neroeks”, whose full title is Volya-Talakh-Ner-Oika, that is, “Lord of the mountains in the upper reaches of Volya”.
Yaruta, a mountain at the very top of the Shchugor River, south of the Khosa-Ner ridge. In E.K. Hoffman - Yaruta, Yaruta-Ur, in D.F. Yuryev - Yaruta-urr.
For etymology, see Yarota (Subpolar Urals).
Pyrva, a mountain in the upper reaches of the Podcherem River on the watershed between Podcherem and Shchugor, 10 km ESE from Mount Miron-Van-Ner. Hoffman's book attests to more complete and accurate Mansi forms Pirva-Tump and Pirva-Ur, which are translated “Teal Mountain” (Mansi pirva - “teal, a type of duck”).
Pon-Iz, a mountain 7 km northeast of the source of the Ponya River, the left tributary of the Shchugor. Translated from the Komi language - “Dog Stone” (cf. the same name in the Subpolar Urals). In the hydronym, instead of the Komi yu - “river”, the Mansi ya - “river” appears, but A. N. Aleshkov attested to the form Ponyu - “Dog River”. It is difficult to judge what comes first - the name of a river or a mountain.
Tonder, a mountain at the top of the Ponya (Ponyu) river, a left tributary of the Shchugor, on the watershed of the Shchugor and Kozhnmyu basins. This name is explained from the Komi tender - “plank back of a riding sled” or Nenets tender - “front and back of a riding sled” (cf. in the Subpolar Urals Small and Large Chender, as well as Tender-Iz). Local historian-ethnographer I.N. Glushkov gives the Mansi form, but with the same Komi or Nenets vowel (Tӧndr-Nyor). The works of E. K. Hoffman and D. F. Yuryev reproduced the purely Mansi sound of Tünder-urr (Tünder), cf. Mansi tyunter - “part of the sledge.”
Despite the exact correspondence, a connection with the Nenets tonder - “embankment”, “tire” is less likely.
Kozhim-Iz, mountain (1195 m) in the upper reaches of the left tributary of the Ilych River Kozhimyu. In the Komi language - Kӧzhnm-Iz, Kӧzhimyu, that is, “Kozhimskaya Mountain”, “River Kozhim”. Thus, the mountain received its name from the river. Wed. Mount Kozhim-Iz and the Kozhim River (Komi Kozhim) in the Subpolar Urals, where the same transfer occurred.
In the materials of Hoffmann's expedition and other sources of the 19th century, usually Kozhem-Iz and Kozhem-Yu. The Mansi name, according to the testimony of V.A. Varsanofyeva, referring to the local “Ostyaks”, is Lu-Ner (more precisely Luv-Ner) - “Horse-mountain”. It belongs to a series of Mansi oronyms associated with the cult of the horse.
Makar-Iz, a mountain in the upper reaches of the Kozhimyu River, 9 km southeast of Mount Kozhim-Iz.
Name from the Komi language: Makar - a personal name borrowed from the Russian language, from - “stone”, “mountain”, “ridge”, that is, “Makarov Stone”.
Kychil-Iz, a mountain directly south of Kozhim-Iza, 12 km east of the confluence of Kozhimyu and Ilych. The Kychilya River (more precisely, probably the Kychilyu), the right tributary of Pirsyu, originates on this mountain.
The name Kychil-Iz is explained from the Komi language, where kytshyl (Izhem and Pechora) is “bend”, “turn”, “river bend”, and iz is “stone”, “mountain”, “ridge”, therefore, Kytshyl-Iz - “The mountain where the bend is.” True, it is difficult to understand which river bend we are talking about - Ilych, Piersyu or Kychilya. The question of what comes first - an oronym or a hydronym is also open.
Pike-Yol-Iz, a ridge to the south of the Kozhnm-Iz and Kychil-Iz massifs, stretching for more than 20 km from north to south between the left tributaries of the Ilych - Pirsyu and Ukyu. The Mansi name of the ridge is Yany-Khambu-Ner, but there is no certainty that this shape is accurate.
The Komi name Shchuka-Yol-Iz is given after the river Shchuka-Yol (“Pike Stream”), a hybrid hydronym consisting of a combination of the Russian word pike with the geographical term yol - “stream” from the Komi language. The oronym translates as “Pike-Yol Ridge” or “Pike Stream Ridge”. The Shchuka-Yol River is a left tributary of the Ilych, originating on this ridge.
According to materials by V.A. Varsanofyeva, the orographic objects designated by the Komi name Pike-Yol-Iz and the Mansi name Yany-Khambu-Ner do not exactly coincide. The Komi distinguish the northern part of the ridge - Tumbal-Iz and the southern - Pike-Yol-Iz itself, and the southernmost - the low end of the ridge, adjacent to the banks of Ukyu from the north, is called Parus-Iz, apparently after the Parus-Iz stream.
Yol, the right tributary of the Ukyu. According to E. S. Fedorov, this ridge is also called Khambu-Ur or Yany-Khangam-Ur.
The Mansi name Yany-Khambu-Ner Varsanofyev translates as “Big Samoyed Mountain”, but we do not know the Mansi word Khambu with the meaning “Samoyed (Nenets)”. The ethnonym Nenets in Mansi is ern. It is possible that the name is a Mansi adaptation of a Nenets oronym (khamba in Nenets “wave”, cf. Kumba).
Leaflet-Yol, the most significant peak on the Shchuka-El-Iz ridge (1095 m), located in the central part of the ridge. The mountain is named after the stream Leaflet-Yel: Komi el is “stream”, and the word leaflet means some kind of vegetation or hay; it was borrowed by the Komi language from Russian, cf. in V.I. Dahl’s dictionary - leaflet - “dropsy, water, berry with currant leaf”, etc.
Sotchem-El-Iz (1040 m), a mountain on the left bank of the Ilych between the upper reaches of the Nerimyu, a tributary of the Ukyu, and the Ichet-Lyagi, a left tributary of the Ilych. Translated from the Komi language - “Mountain of the Burnt Stream” (Komi sotchӧm, sotchem - “burnt”, yol - “stream”, iz - “stone”, “mountain”, “ridge”). Botanist V.S. Govorukhin, who examined these places, writes: “The entire surroundings of Shantym-Priluk, located along the banks of the Big Sotchem-Iӧlya stream in view of the Sotchem-Iӧl-Iz mountain peak, once (about 100 years ago) completely burned out, due to which is why such somewhat strange Zyryan names as “Burnt stream”, “Burnt mountain” appeared.
V.A. Varsanofyeva cites and explains the Mansi name of this mountain Savkoner - “Mount Savki”, a reindeer herder who constantly stood on this mountain. However, the Mansi name should have the form Savka-Ner, since the personal name borrowed from the Russian language, derived from Savva, Savvatiy, Saveliy and some other anthroponyms, has the form Savka in the Mansi language.
Torre-Porre-Iz, a separate mountain on the western slope of the Urals in the upper reaches of the left tributary of the Ilych River Ichet-Lyaga, 20 km southeast of Mount Sotchem-Yol-Iz.
Mount Torre Porre Iz is one of the most remarkable natural monuments in the Northern Urals: on its plateau-like peak there are many bizarrely shaped rocks. This is how V.A. Varsanofyev describes Torre-Porre-Iz: “The top of Torre-Porre in the northern part of the ridge is a plateau gradually descending to the south, on the surface of which there is an entire city with bizarre stone buildings and ruins... In the western, steep Along the precipitous edge rise steep walls, crowned with battlements and large “watchtowers.” At the northern edge of the plateau, where the highest point of the ridge is located, dissected rocks rise in the form of massive walls and towers. The most picturesque sections of the fantastic city with its temples, monuments and palaces are located in the middle and southern part of the plateau.”
The Mansi name of this original peak is Muning-Tump or Moning-Tump, in which muning is an adjective derived from the word muni (moni) - “outlier rock” (cf. Muning-Tump in the upper reaches of the Vishera), therefore, translated from Mansi “A separate mountain with rock outcrops” (Varsanofyeva has it as “Mountain of pillars or ruins”). On the contrary, the Komi name Torre-Porre-Iz is very difficult to explain, since the corresponding words torre and porre are not in the most complete dictionaries of the Komi language.
Perhaps, in these “rhymed” sound complexes one can see a figurative device for conveying surprise or bewilderment when characterizing a natural phenomenon for which ordinary human words are insufficient. The fact that such expressive means exist in the Komi language is evidenced by the following “rhymed” paired words: ruva duva - “with spirit”, “with character”, shundy-mundy, shundy-kundy, shundry-mundra - “junk”, shilyӧ -myllӧ, killӧ-myllӧ, leshki-pleshki - “trifle”. There are such expressions in toponymy: one of the peaks on the Kvarkush ridge is called Tara-Bara-Myk, however, perhaps not without the influence of the Russian tara-bara.
Kos-Iz, a mountain southeast of Torre Porre Isa on the right bank of Yjnd-Lyagi. Translated from the Komi language - “Dry Mountain”, “Dry Stone”. The Mansi name Tosam-Akhvtas-Ner, or Tosam-Akhvtas-Tump, Tosam-Akhvtas-Nel, has the same meaning - “Dry stone ridge”, “Dry stone spur”.
Nyagys-Talakh-Yalpyng-Nyor, a group of “island” mountains to the N and NW of the Pas-Nyor ridge in the interfluve of Nyais and Nyais-Manyi in their upper reaches. Translated from Mansi - “Holy Ural (Stone) at the top of Nyaisa.” Sometimes - Yalpyng-Ner, Nyagys-Yalpyng-Ner. This group includes Mount Nyagys-Talakh-Ner-Oika, sometimes simply Ner-Oika or Oika-Ner, that is, “Old Man Ural (Stone) at the top of Nyaisa,” and Mount Ekva-Ner, or Ner-Ekva, Ekva-Syahl , that is, “Old Woman-Mountain”. Since this group of mountains is closer to the Nyais-Manya River, it is also called Nyagys-Manya-Yalnyng-Nyor (D. F. Yuryev).
Wed. Yalpyng-Nyor (Sosvinsky Yalpyng-Nyor).
Pas-Nyor, a ridge running in the direction NNE - SSW between the headwaters of the Nyais-Manya and Yovtyngya rivers, the northern continuation of the Yanyg-Kot-Ner ridge.
V. A. Varsanofyeva cites the oronym Pas-Ner and its interpretation from the Mansi language “Mountain-mitten” (Mansi passa - “mitten”, ner - “stone mountain”, “ridge”). This explanation did not come across to us, however, when interviewing Mansi informants. Although not very confident, they said that the word pass as part of the oronym has the meaning of “limit”, “boundary”, that is, Pas-Ner - “Boundary Stone”, “Boundary Stone”. It has not yet been possible to establish what border Pas-Ner could serve as. It is possible that we already have a folk etymology and the original name really meant “Mountain-mitten”.
The most significant peak of the Pas-Nyor ridge has a very interesting name associated with the Mansi cult of the horse - Pas-Ner-Luv-Sis-Khurip-Lomt, that is, “Part of Pas-Nyor, similar to the back of a horse.”
Yanyg-Kot-Ner, also Yanyg-Kvot-Ner, a ridge about 40 km long between the Evtyngya River and the upper reaches of the Lopsia River, running first from NNE to SSW, and then from N to S between the Pas-Nyor and Man-Kot ridges Nyor. The highest height is 1126 m.
The Mansi name is translated as “Big Kisovy Ridge” (yanyg - “big”, ner- “stone mountain”, “ridge”, cat, kvot - “kissy, that is, the skin from the legs of a deer, elk, used, in particular, for making kisovs”) skis; shoes made from this skin"). Both Mansi forms Yanyg-Kot-Ner and Yanyg-Kvot-Ner coexist, but back in the 19th century (A. Reguli, E.K. Goffman, D.F. Yuryev) the form Yanyg-Kvot-Ner was firmly established on the map, although the variant cat is more common in oral speech. The Komi, according to V.A. Varsanofyeva, call this ridge Petrushka-Iz, that is, “Petrushkin Stone,” however, it is possible that only the highest peak of the ridge is called that way.
The name, somewhat strange in its meaning, is explained in Mansi mythology: it turns out that during the global flood, only the highest peak of Yanyg-Kot-Nyora remained dry, and even then it was the size of a deer’s kitty (cf. similar stories about the peaks of Otorten, Chistop and other mountains) .
In a letter from the Hungarian traveler A. Reguli to academician P. P. Keppen, however, it is stated that the name Kvot-Nyar (as in Reguli) is a translation of the Samoyed toponym Penei-Pe and that both of these names in translation mean “Kisovy Kamen” (“Kits” in Nenets foam, “stone” - pe).
This once again indicates that there was much in common between the Mansi and Nenets mythological perceptions of the Urals and that many Mansi names of mountains can be tracings of Nenets ones.
Lopsia-Tump, or Lopsia-Talakh-Tump, a mountain at the top of the Lopsia River, a left tributary of the Northern Sosva, 5 km east of the southern end of the Yanyg-Kot-Ner ridge. Translated from the Mansi language - “A separate mountain in the upper reaches of Lopsia.”
Man-Kot-Ner, also Man-Kvot-Ner, a ridge between the upper reaches of the Lopsiya and Manya, the left tributaries of the Northern Sosva, the southern continuation of the Yanyg-Kot-Ner ridge. According to Varsanofeva, the Komi call this ridge Petrun-Iz (Petrun is a personal name derived from Peter). The Mansi name is translated as “Small Kisovy Ridge” (for more details, see Yanyg-Kot-Ner). The Mansi claim that a space the size of a deer kitty remained unflooded during the Great Flood and on the top of Man-Kot-Nyor.
The southwestern spur of this ridge is called in Mansi Yorn-Ekva-Nel, that is, “Spur of the Nenets old woman.” Here, according to legend, a Nenka woman once died.
Yot-Khuri, a group of mountains southeast of the Man-Kot-Ner ridge. Mansi distinguishes two adjacent peaks - Yanyg-Yovt-Khuri and Man-Yovt-Khurn, that is, “Big Yovt-Khuri” and “Small Yovt-Khuri”.
Mansi yovt - “bow (weapon)”, khuri - “image”, “image”, that is, Yovt-Khuri - “Image of a bow”, “Resembling a bow”. The meaning of the metaphor becomes clearer if you look at Yanyg-Yevt-Khuri from the north, for example, from Mount Lopsia-Talakh-Tump (see), as the author had to: it turns out that Yanyg-Yovt-Khuri is surprisingly similar from a distance to a giant bow lying on ground and ready to shoot an arrow into the sky.
Eli-Khotal-Ekva-Nyor, the north-eastern spur of the watershed ridge between the sources of the Manya (left tributary of the Northern Sosva) and Tosamtov (right tributary of the Manya) rivers.
One of the most mysterious among Mansi mountain names. Mansi translates with difficulty and hesitation: “Tomorrow is a woman’s nose (spur)”, “The distant sun is a woman’s nose”, “The day is ahead of a woman’s nose”, etc. In the literal translation - “The day before (the sun) is a woman’s nose (spur) "
Since Eli-Hotal-Ekva-Nel is a northeastern spur, the name may indicate that the spur faces sunrise, the next day. It is likely that there is also a mythological character Eli-Khotal-Ekva, but we could not find out anything about him.
Engyley-Syahl, a mountain on a watershed ridge near the top of the Tosamtov River, a tributary of Manya, approximately 8 km northeast of Pecherya-Talyakh-Chakhl Mountain. In the description of D.F. Yuryev - Engal-ner, in other sources also Engilsyakhl, Engal-Chahl, Engile-syakhl, Engole-Chahl.
A very interesting name, important for understanding the processes of ethnic interaction that took place recently in the Urals: the geographical term syakhl - “peak” belongs to the Mansi, but they cannot explain the word engyl. This word is Nenets (engaloy - “oblong”, “elongated”), proving that the Mansi borrowed many mountain names from the Nenets, and even more often traced (translated) them (see Tel-Poz-Iz about this). In this case, the so-called semi-calculation arose: only the Nenets geographical term (obviously, pe or hoy) was translated, and the Nenets definition was retained. In conclusion, it remains to add that Engyley-Syahl is indeed a narrow and elongated mountain, stretching along the meridian for almost 10 km.
The Shchuger River is one of the most interesting and popular tourist rivers in the Subpolar Urals. With its geographical location, the beauty of the surrounding mountains, its mountainous character, it attracts tourists from various cities and regions of our country, the number of which is increasing every year.
Shchuger- the largest right tributary of the Pechora. It originates from the Saran-Iz ridge with the highest peak Pele Nier (1075 m). Here, on the northeastern slope of the mountain range from an altitude of 720 m above sea level, Shchuger begins his more than three hundred kilometers (304 km) journey to the confluence with Pechora.
There are several exits to the upper reaches of the mountain Shchuger. Rafting can be started from the road bridge (Coordinates: 63°19"41"N 59°7"26"E) on the Pripolyarny highway.
Pon-Yu- the left tributary of the Shchuger - has a length of 31 km. This is a fast, shallow river, the lower course of which for 8 km can be used to transport cargo by kayak.
The Shchuger River at the confluence of the Pon-Yu has a width of up to 20 m with an average depth of 0.5-0.6 m. From here you can start kayaking, and at higher water levels - on a raft or boat. 
Pon-Yu River - Moroi River (57 km).
Slow small riffles follow one after another. The river flow speed does not exceed 1 m/sec. The river bed is replete with islands, the river is split into numerous channels, often very small. In low water, even in kayaks, it is difficult to pass some of the riffles of the upper reaches of the Shchugor. At the 12th km of the route, the river bed crosses an easily passable threshold formed by a group of stones.
20 km from Pon-Yu after the large island the river makes a large bend, after which there is again a simple rapid. At the left turn of the river, the channel narrows, the fast current hits the coastal rock and, reflected from it, rolls over the stone slab in a seething stream. A slab blocks the channel across almost the entire width of the river, leaving only a narrow passage on the left bank. At high water levels, the slab is hidden under water, and passing the rapids on a kayak and raft is not difficult.
To the right and left along the river there are two lines of mountains, covered with forest below, and gray rocky ridges at the top. Rough, sharply defined peaks rise above the river valley Telpossky ridge: Khora-Iz (1326 m), Khalmer-Sala (1274 m), the highest peak of this part of the Urals is clearly visible - Telpos-Iz (1617 m).
On the slopes of the mountain ranges surrounding the river valley there are numerous patches of snow-white patches of snowfields and small glaciers. Small but stormy rivers originate from them, filling Shchugor with clean mountain water.
At the 35th km of the road, a stormy stream flows into Shchuger on the left, originating from a large tarn lake at the southeastern foot of Mount Hora-Iz. You can use it to make an interesting climb to this little-explored peak of the Urals.
The river flows north, making countless turns, every now and then changing depth and width (from 20 to 70 m).
Closer to the mouth of the Halmerya (63.806021, 59.409877) and Moroi rivers, flowing from the Telpos ridge, the river flow becomes more even, there are fewer stones in the riverbed. At the bends of the river, a majestic panorama of Telpos-Iz opens up, dominating all the nearby peaks. In quiet sections of the river, the peak is reflected in the water, leaving an unforgettable impression.
Soon Shchuger receives the Moroi River (63.827149, 59.408271). Not far from the mouth of the river you can find a good place for camp. From here you can make a radial exit to the Telpos ridge, examine the Govorukhin glacier, and climb Telpos-Iz. 
Moroi River - Great Rapids (11 km).
6 km from the mouth of the river. The Moroi stream flows into the right, from which it is no more than 2 km to the Big Rapids. The mountains approaching the river squeeze Shchuger, cluttering it with fragments of rocks and boulders. The river is crossed by an old moraine ridge, which forms a threshold (63.920657, 59.473203).
The entire rapid can be divided into three stages of 800 m each. Between the steps there are calm sections of the river. The possibility of passing the rapids by kayak and raft largely depends on the water level in the river. In low water, the rafts will have to be abandoned and rebuilt below the threshold, and the kayaks will have to be carried along the shore.
In medium and deep water, the rapids come to life, clearly defined drains appear along which kayaks and rafts can be guided. But in order to successfully pass the rapids, it is necessary to do preliminary reconnaissance, outline the path of the vessel, and remember the characteristic landmarks. The most difficult is the second stage of the rapid, at the exit from which the river bed is blocked by a rocky ridge, forming a steep drainage, more than 1 m high. 
Big rapids - the mouth of the Telpos River (58 km).
Beyond the threshold, the river bed expands to 100-150 m and becomes shallow again. 15 km below the Big Rapid, the Volokovka River (64.024648, 59.487044) flows into Shchugor, along the valley of which at the end of the 19th century passed the Sibiryakovsky Tract (64.026269, 59.440512) - the road from Pechora to the Ob, laid by the industrialist Sibiryakov for the export of Siberian grain.
2 km from Volokovka on the right bank of the Shchuger there is a closed hydrometeorological station Verkhniy Shchugor and a helipad (64.031014, 59.457960). The station is not visible from the river.
The shallow water stretches all the way to the confluence of the Torgovaya River (Hatemalya - 64.057192, 59.414616) 7 km from the weather station. In the area where the Torgovaya confluences, the Shchugor changes its direction to the west and enters a narrow valley between the Telpossky ridge and the Research Ridge, forming a series of fast rapids and simple rifts. Then the river makes several sharp turns and receives on the left numerous small rivers flowing from the northern and western slopes of Telpos Isa. Along one of the streams (Durnoy-Iol), flowing in a deep gorge, there is the most convenient route to Telpos-Iz (15 km).
Telpos-Iz translated into Russian means “Nest of the Winds”. The mountain fully lives up to its name. In the Telpos Isa area, winds constantly blow, and the peak is often covered with a cap of clouds. This significantly complicates the ascent to the summit, and if the group does not have experience of hiking in difficult meteorological conditions, it cannot be recommended to climb Telpos-Iz.
Below the mouth of the Durnoy-Iol stream, rapids follow one after another. The most difficult of them, the so-called “Bad Threshold,” is located at a mountain of 1052 m, located in alignment with the Telpos-Iz peak. Along the banks of the river there are increasingly high coastal cliffs. At the 58th km from the Big Rapids, Shchugor receives a large tributary - the Telpos River (63.964736, 58.8846111). 
Telpos River - Upper Gate of Shchuger (75 km).
The width of the Shchuger below the mouth of the Telpos River reaches 100 m. The river makes a sharp bend and rushes to the north. The banks of the Shchuger are high, sometimes sheer, with limestone cliffs that drop steeply to the water. At the confluence of the river on the left. Sed-Yu (64.008269, 58.638523) Shchuger is included in the Parm region. After 7 km, on the left bank of the river you can see the remains of the settlement of Gerd-Yu (64°4"18"N 58°38"23"E). Opposite rises the picturesque rock Gerd-Yu. Rafts usually travel from the former weather station to the remains of the village of Gerd-Yu in two days.
At the 42nd km, Shchugor takes the river on the right. Maly Patok (64.163821, 58.550042). At the mouth of the tributary there is a hunting hut (64.166292, 58.561800), where you can stay overnight. Below the mouth of Maly Patok, Shchugor becomes even more water-rich. From here begins one of the most beautiful sections of the Shchugor River. Almost along its entire length the river has a mountainous character. Rocky rifts and simple rifts alternate with reaches, along the banks of which high cliffs often rise.
At the 30th km of the route, you come across the Shirokoye Reach, below which there is a strong riffle-rift called the Narrow Zev. The length of the roll is 2 km. The roll splits
to Upper, Middle and Lower. The most stormy - Middle roll - at the Shelyasor rock.
At the 33rd km of the route from Maly Patok, the riverbed of the Shchuger narrows, forming the Upper Gate. They are cliffs rising vertically on both banks of the river, along which the Shchuger calmly flows. Above the Upper Gate on the right, the Veldor-Kyrta-Iol stream flows into Shchugor (Veldor-Kyrtael -64.166292, 58.561800). There is a picturesque waterfall 200 m up the stream. At the mouth of the stream is a convenient place for camp. 
The upper gate is the village of Ust-Shchugor (76 km).
Below the Upper Gate, Shchuger makes a large bend and rushes to the west. 2 km below the gate in the river bed there is a Krivoy roll, which is a steep drop-off with a complex fairway between two islands. Below the Crooked Roll, the Krasny Creek flows in on the right, after which you encounter the simple Parapon Roll. The left bank of the river is dominated by the beautiful Parapon-Kyrta rock. The next rift is called the Zyryan rift and it is located in front of the Middle Gate of Shchuger - the most picturesque on the river.
From the Middle Gate it remains 9 km to a large tributary - the Bolshoi Patok River (64.340784, 58.199518). At the mouth of Bolshoy Patok there is an island that needs to be bypassed along the left channel. The width of the rivers reaches 180-200 m.
The taiga often retreats from the banks, giving way to flooded meadows; 4 km below the mouth of Bolshoi Patok, on the left bank you can see a fishermen’s base. At the 24th km from Bolshoy Patok, the river bed branches into two channels, forming an island (64.204320, 58.046398). Passage is possible along the right channel.
At the exit from it, there used to be the first settlement of the route - the Michabichevnik parking lot (64.194550, 58.033040). Several families of hereditary fishermen and hunters lived in the village.
At the exit from the bend there are the last - Lower - gates (5 km). If you have time, tourists can take an excursion to the Lower Gate area and explore the seven caves. 
Below the last gate, the Shchuger flows in low banks. There are many shallows in the wide river bed (300 m), and there are large and small islands. The water in the river is clean and transparent. There are many ducks on the river, and game and animals in the riverine forests.
The final destination of the water trip is the village Ust-Shchuger(64.194550, 58.033040) is located on the left bank near Pechora, 2 km below the mouth of the river. Shchuger.
There are currently no settlements on the river. There are tourist sites equipped by the staff of the Yugyd Va National Park, and ecotourism is developing.
Material used: Golovko V.K., Okoneshnikov V.A. Along the rivers of the Urals. Sverdlovsk, Middle Ural book publishing house, 1973.
This route will allow you to get acquainted with the wonderful natural sites located on the border of the Northern and Subpolar Urals - the Shchugor River and the highest peak of the Northern Urals - Mount Telpos-Iz (1619 m). Tourists will raft on inflatable boats along the Shchugor River from the upper reaches to the mouth, examining the beautiful coastal cliffs, and will also climb the city of Telpos-Iz.
Type of tourism: hiking, rafting.
Band size: from 2 people.
Duration: 14 days/13 nights.
Tour cost: 25,000 rubles per person.
Children's age: from the age of 14.
Route thread: Vuktyl city - route of the Punga-Vuktyl-Ukhta gas pipeline - upper reaches of the river. Shchugor - rafting along the Shchugor River to the Durnoy-El stream - climbing Mount Telpos-Iz (1619 m) - rafting along the Shchugor River to the village. Ust-Shchugor.
Photos*. Wind Nest Mountain.
*Belkov V.V., Revda.
Tour program.
| Day p/p | Section of the route. Events | Way to travel | Distance |
| 1 day. | From the village Vuktyl we go onto the highway along the Punga-Vuktyl-Ukhta gas pipeline, then we move along the highway east to the bridge over the Shchugor river. Assembling ships, preparing for rafting. Overnight. | Automobile | 120 km |
| Day 2. |
Breakfast. We are finishing assembling the vessels and preparing for rafting along the river. Shchugor. We walk 12 km to the mouth of the Ponya River and have lunch. After 3 km the mouth of the Pelenkurya river, 5 km below Pelenkurya we stop for the night. Recreation, fishing. |
Catamaran | 20 km |
| Day 3. |
Breakfast. We raft 12 km to the mouth of the left tributary. Let's have lunch. After lunch we walk along the river for another 13 km. Overnight, rest, fishing. |
Catamaran | 25 km |
| Day 4 |
Breakfast. We walk along the river for 12-13 km. Along the banks there is a forest - larch, birch, willow, cedar, spruce. Lots of dead wood. The peaks of Telpos-Iz stick out invincibly above the clouds, and to the left of it, in the massif of Mount Chora-Iz, there is a magnificent huge steep-walled circus of regular round shape. We get up for lunch. After it we go to the mouth of the Moroi River. Overnight, rest, fishing. |
Catamaran | 25 km |
| Day 5 | Breakfast. We raft 9 km from the mouth of the river. Moroi before the start of the Great Rapids. Dinner. We pass the mouth of the Volokovka River and the mouth of the Torgovaya River. Dinner, overnight. | Catamaran | 34 km |
| Day 6 | Breakfast, preparation for rafting. Let's start. At the mouth of the river Nyartsyu-Yu we have lunch, and after another 10 km we stop for the night on the left bank of Shchugor, at the mouth of the Durnoy-El stream. Overnight, preparation for the ascent to Telpos-Iz - the mountain of the nest of winds, the highest peak of the Northern Urals. | Catamaran | 21 km |
| Day 7 | The beginning of a two-day radial trek - ascent to Telpos-Iz. Breakfast. We begin our ascent from the mouth of the Durnoy-El stream along its valley to Lake Telpos. We will spend the night in a convenient place near the lake, walk around the surroundings of the lake, admire the mountain scenery, take photographs, and collect mushrooms and berries, if available. | On foot | 7 km |
| Day 8 | Breakfast. Leaving the tents and bivouac equipment at the lake, we move along the northeastern shore of Lake Telpos for another kilometer. From here there is a steep climb east-northeast to the ridge and then along a rocky ridge southwest to the summit. Vertex! Telpos-Isa offers a majestic view: in the north and north-west, in a bluish haze, the mountains Neroika (1646 m), Saber (1425 m) and many others rise. If weather conditions are favorable, we organize a snack with tea from thermoses at the summit. Descent - along the ascent route to the parking lot at the mouth of the Durnoy-Yel stream. Celebratory banquet on the occasion of a successful ascent to one of the most significant and inaccessible peaks of the Urals. | On foot | 17 km |
| Day 9 | Breakfast. We continue rafting along Shchugor. Let's go to the river. Telpos, at the mouth of which we have lunch. At the 20th kilometer below the mouth of Telpos, Shchugor receives the Sedya River on the left. We spend the night at the mouth of the Sedyu. | Catamaran | 35 km |
| Day 10 | After breakfast we continue rafting along Shchugor through the Parma region. At the 21st kilometer from the mouth of the Sedyu we pass the large right tributary of Maly Patok. Having descended 10 km below the mouth of M. Patok, we spend the night. | Catamaran | 31 km |
| Day 11 | Breakfast. We continue rafting along Shchugor. Lunch after 12 km. Having walked 24 km in a day, we reach the Veldor-Kyrta-Yol stream. After it, the Shchugor channel narrows, forming the rocky “Upper Gate”. Opposite the mouth of the stream on the left bank of Shchugor is a wonderful place for a camp. We will explore the caves in the limestone outcrops of the right bank of Shchugor. Overnight, rest, fishing. | Catamaran | 24 km |
| Day 12 | Breakfast, we continue the rafting. We walk from the Upper to the Middle Gates 11 km. Lunch combined with a tour of the cave and an ascent to the main shore of Shchugor (the top of the rocky Gate). After lunch we walk 8 km to the Bolshoi Patok River. 10 km below the mouth of B. Patok we stop for the night. | Catamaran | 29 km |
| Day 13 | Breakfast. We continue the rafting. We go to the mouth of the Katya-El River and, a little lower, to the site of the former village of Michabichevnik. At the mouth of the river Kyrta-Yel we have lunch. A fast current carries us into the Pechora River. We finish the rafting in the village of Ust-Shchugor. We settle down for the night. Banquet to mark the end of the active part of the trip. | Catamaran | 43 km |
| Day 14 | Rest day (used in a convenient and beautiful place along the route). Field bathhouse on the river bank, walks, photography, picking berries and mushrooms. |
* The route or schedule along the route can be adjusted on the spot, based on weather conditions, the preparedness of the group and other circumstances.
The tour price includes: equipment rental (catamarans; oars; life jackets; tents, campfire equipment, camping mat, sleeping bag), 3 meals a day, all transfers according to the program, services of guides and instructors and a cook. The cost of the route includes accident insurance. An insurance policy is issued for the group and is kept by the instructors along the route.
Not included in the price: insurance against tick-borne encephalitis, backpack rental, photo and video shooting.
Required additions:
. They work on the program , 1 person per catamaran.
. Life jackets and oars are provided as special equipment;
As personal equipment on a hike, you must have: backpack, windproof suit, rain cape, hat, warm clothes, at least two pairs of shoes + flip-flops or sneakers, swimsuit, personal utensils, flashlight, hygiene items.
Estimated additional expenses: food on the train, souvenirs.
Required documents: passport, voucher.
Nutrition: 3 times. Food is prepared by instructors over a fire according to recipes , if you wish, you can take part and learn several secrets of culinary skills.
Medicine: The guides have a first aid kit. You can take a personal first aid kit (if necessary).
The picturesque right tributary of the Pechora River in the Northern Urals is 300 kilometers long. In some sources and on some maps this river is called not Shchugor, but Shchuger.
The sources of the river are located on the western slope of the Ural Mountains, at an altitude of 750 meters above sea level (between the peaks of Molydiz, Akvalsupnel and Paryaur). The basin area is 9660 km². Average annual water consumption - - 252 m³/sec.
In the upper reaches it flows between high mountains. Shchugor made his way between Mount Telposis and the southern slopes of the Research Ridge. It flows into the Pechora near the village of Ust-Shchugor, named after the river and founded in the 18th century.
What does the name of the river mean? Let's look into the book of the famous Ural linguist A.K. Matveev “Geographical names of the Urals”:
“There are many reasons to believe that the initial sch goes back to h: sound sch completely uncharacteristic of non-Russian names of the Urals. In the “Book of the Big Drawing”, a tributary of the Pechora is called Chugor or Schugor; according to the 1579 census, the village located at the mouth of the Shchugor River, a tributary of the Vishera, was called Chugor... It is possible that these names indicate places of habitat or grazing of deer: in the Komi language there is a word chukor– “heap”, “herd”, “herd”, in Sami – chigar- “a herd of deer” and “a place for grazing herds”, in Khanty - Syahyr- “pasture”. Curious that the word Chugor or sugor– “place of reindeer grazing” is also reflected in Russian documents of the Obdorsk government of the late 19th century... Possibly the toponyms Shchugor, Chugor and common nouns Chugor, sugor go back to some Finno-Ugric or Samoyed language.”
The river has crystal clear and transparent water. There are a lot of fish in Shchugor. Salmon spawn here.
Tourists are rafting along Shchugor. There are a lot of rifts and rapids here. Rocks rise along the banks, the most interesting of which are the Upper, Middle and Lower Gates, framing the river on both banks. There are caves.
There is not a single populated area along the entire 300-kilometer river. It flows through the territory of the Yugyd Va National Park.
At the end of the 19th century, the Sibiryakovsky tract (or Shchugorsky portage) passed here, laid by an entrepreneur and gold miner and A.M. Sibiryakov. Siberian bread was transported along it.
NOT. Ermilov about the Shchugor River (1888)
I suggest you get acquainted with a fragment from N.E.’s travel notes. Ermilov “Trip to Pechora”, published in 1888:
“The Shchugor River, at the mouth of which the Sibiryakovskaya pier was founded, is remarkable for the beauty of its banks, the clarity of the water and the speed of the flow - qualities inherent in a mountain river: the Shchugor flows from the Ural Mountains and on its way cuts through the Ijedi Parma ridge. Having entered the mouth of this river, we first swam between low-lying banks consisting of alluvial sands, covered either with groups of birches or willow bushes. Little by little the banks rose, the birches were replaced by pines, spruces and larch; among the sandy plain, huge individual stones began to appear, which gradually turned into giant cliffs hanging over the water; The flow of the river became faster and faster. The two islands - Tokar-Yol and Tokar-di, which we met on the way, also have a mountainous character and are covered with dense green, one might say, virgin vegetation: they are rarely disturbed by human presence.
Finally, we reached the most beautiful point on Shchugor - an area called Uldom-Kyrta in Zyryan, which in Russian means “iron gate”. Before these iron gates, the river widens almost a mile, causing its flow to become slow from very fast; a kind of vast lake is formed, closed in front by two high mountains, overgrown with dense dark forest on their peaks. For the passage of the river, these mountains seem to move apart and a gate is formed, 80 fathoms wide, into which the river noisily rushes, hissing, foaming and terribly agitated: the speed of the flow in the gate is unusually great. These gates - the iron gates, Uldor-Kirta - are high stone walls, 40 fathoms high, consisting of light gray limestone, furrowed with deep vertical crevices, cracks and potholes, in the depths of which green stripes of turf and bushes growing there can be seen. Having walked 30 fathoms along these stone walls, you again emerge into the expanse of a river freed from the shackles, the excitement of which again turns into a smooth surface, and the roar, noise and speed are replaced by a calm flow... It is difficult to imagine this wild but majestic view of northern nature.
Further up the river there are no less majestic gates - Sher-Kirta, the middle rock - which similarly constrain the river on both sides with steep cliffs protruding far into its bed. Next there is a third stone gate - Veldor-Kyrta. Even further upstream of the Shchugor, on its bank rises the high mountain Tylpos-iz (stone, nest of the wind); about what the Zyryans have a belief, according to which there is a permanent abode of the wind on it, why the slightest sound of a voice or knock made on this mountain causes a terrible storm in its vicinity. Even higher along Shchugor there are caves with eternal, non-melting ice. But we could not get there and see all these wonders of nature: the steamer, having reached Sher-Kyrt (middle gate), could not cope with the speed and strength of the river current, against which we were sailing, and was forced to turn back...
The transparency of the water of Shchugor is amazing: at a depth of 2 fathoms, small pebbles, even grains of gravel, covering the bottom of the river are clearly and distinctly visible; at the confluence of the Shchugor with the Pechora, its water does not mix with the Pechora water, but differs sharply from it for many miles below the mouth of this mountain tributary of the Pechora, so that to the eye of the observer the latter river appears in the form of two parallel and flowing ribbons of water - light, transparent ribbons on the right bank and more cloudy, grayish ones on the left.”
...The idea of going to the Urals had been brewing for a long time, but finding a convenient mattress river turned out to be not so easy.
Firstly, it required throwing the wheels into the water, and throwing it out too. Secondly, a minimum population, no zones, and no tourists, if possible, were desirable. Thirdly, most of the group wanted not too cold, but clean water, so the Subpolar-Polar somehow quietly disappeared, and the Middle and Southern were not even considered - it’s no secret that on many “all-Union routes” you can no longer drink water from the rivers, and the number of infectious ticks exceeded all reasonable limits. As a result, from the thick folder of Ural applicants, only Shchugor remained...
The ambiguities with the abandonment, with the proper approach, have become clearer, and the experience of the abandonment, I believe, will be useful to many, especially since the situation has changed in several years (since the last report).
A park
This year, the National Natural Park “Yugyd Va” celebrated a milestone anniversary - 10 years since its foundation! This is a lot, considering how difficult it is to protect protected areas in our country from encroachment.
The territory of the park lies on the western slopes of the Northern and Subpolar Urals, and part of the Pechora Lowland. INThe park is included in the UNESCO World Natural Heritage List with the Pechora-Ilychsky Nature Reserve adjacent to it in the south.Any economic and industrial activity is prohibited on the territory of Yugyd Va.The nature of the national park is unique - this is the only corner of Europe where it has been preserved in an almost undisturbed state. Today, the park represents the largest area of virgin northern taiga in Russia and Europe; it is home to more than thirty species of mammals and one hundred and twenty species of birds. Among those unusual for a Muscovite are the chipmunk, the arctic fox, the reindeer, and the wolverine. Here are concentrated places where extremely rare plant species grow, many of them are listed in the International and Russian Red Books.Geological history has left numerous natural monuments, of which there are more than half a hundred within the park.
The territory has no equal in the world in terms of the density of its river network. The main fish in the reservoirs is grayling. Salmon comes into the cleanest rivers to spawn... The park is one of the largest natural reserves in the world, occupying almost two million hectares. And all this is protected by fifty rangers for a salary that is embarrassing to write. It is not profitable for the state to protect parks; it is easier for it to sell forests and water into private hands. Apparently, one cannot expect sponsorship from the city of gas workers Vuktyl - new gas developments have not been carried out in the territory for a long time; old wells are being milked. A small cash influx into the territory is possible only through tourism account – that is, for you and me, dear water workers.
There are plenty of people willing to exploit the natural complexes of the Pechora Urals - timber merchants, gold miners, subsoil explorers, and just poachers. In 2002, the head of Komi, Toporov, tried to move the boundaries of the national park in order to begin mining gold and quartzite sandstones, thereby disturbing the park’s ecosystem in sensitive mountainous areas. As far as I understand, the number did not go through.
According to the stories of the rangers, dredges brought by enterprising businessmen are still rotting somewhere on the tributaries...
It is unknown how the struggle for such a rich territory would have ended if it had not been for the active position of the directorate of the national park (director - Tatyana Fomicheva) and the patronage of UNESCO. True, this struggle continues... The conversation with Tatyana Savvateevna about the needs and problems of the park was close and understandable to me - I grew up myself in the national park where my father was the director.
In the 90s, the park operated several year-round tourist centers and had its own tourist service with staff. It was planned that ecological and geological tourism would rapidly develop, combined with rafting on the rivers Kozhim, B. Synya, Podcherye, Shchugor, Vangyr, Kosyu and others. At the beginning of the century, due to lack of funds, many initiatives in this area stalled, and the influx of tourists decreased significantly. For example, on Shchugor we did not see a single operating tourist center (which, in general, only made us happy: the fewer tourist centers and camps there are along the banks of the Ural rivers, the more attractive they are for “wild” tourists. This is an axiom!J)
But in recent years, it seems that scientific interest in the park has increased - zoological teams, survey expeditions of scientists from Komi and Russia have again turned their attention to “Yugyd Va”. The composition of the flora and fauna of the park has not yet been sufficiently studied, but then what can we say about its depths!…
River
Shchugor is a mattress river, with the exception of a rather fun three-kilometer rapid in the upper reaches. It originates from springs in the very heart of the Northern Urals, vigorously flows between the ridges along the valley to the north, and then goes west, along the Pripechora lowland and flows into Pechora. The total fall of the river is more than 330 meters, and the length of the route from the gas pipeline to the mouth is about 320 kilometers .
The Shchugor flows through the territory of “Yugyd Va”, which in the Komi language means “light water”. In my opinion, it is the Shchugor that represents the park - I have never seen cleaner and more transparent water throughout the rafting. 
Even just for this reason, you can make such a long journey!...You can drink water from the boat at any time, dilute your tea; beautiful graylings are visible swimming under the boat, the colored pebbles on the bottom are visible to the smallest detail, and on a sunny day the bottom of the holes is visible at a depth of up to eight meters! The children were almost constantly in the water, despite its coolness. After the hike, I had no one crack on the fingers, as usually happened after Karelia... To be honest, I expected the water to be much colder, and I told everyone to take swamp boots, but the river is fine in neoprene slippers and even in ordinary sneakers, and you can catch fish from the shore and from a boat without any problems .
Along the entire length of the river, hundreds of small streams and springs run into it, pristine and cold. The river bottom is always pebbles of different sizes.
The character of the Shchugor is fast-moving, but not dangerous - small rifts, rapids and rifts 
interspersed with sluggish deep spills or stagnant holes near the rocks. However, even in such low water, which we traditionally found ourselves in (40 cm less than usual), in the middle reaches of the river we were able to travel up to 40 kilometers (in some places the river runs at a speed of ~4 km/h), and the thirty-meter course was walked without any strain at all. True. , in the lower reaches we seriously struggled in the wind, and in the upper reaches we had to squirm for a couple of days, dragging boats through shallow rifts, which greatly reduced the speed of movement (~ 15 km per day). But the towing 
It’s not particularly stressful there: there are no blockages on Shchugor, the river meanders from pebble to pebble, small places are fordable. The river is constantly split into islands, forcing you to read the water and choose the right channel at the level of intuition. The lowering of the forest edge does not always indicate a good stream, and a wide and seemingly deep branch can be 10 cm deep.
Due to the drought, the tributaries turned into modest streams, littered with stones, and vividly reminded me of the sadly heroic campaign along Lakhna. The Leningraders who were slipping with us were hit hard - they intended to ride up Torgovaya, drag their feet and go down Maly Patok to Shchugor. As a result, the guys carried the kat on their hands almost the entire way, walking without days or normal rest. We met them already at the anti-stapel, emaciated and silent; and only alcohol seems to have poured life into them...J
Shores
The forest is gloomy, dense, full of dead wood and not intended for walking - real thickets of animals. So there is no problem of dead wood for a fire. There are practically no cheerful clearings, fields and meadows - their mission is carried out by stone pebbles and screes overgrown with grass.
There are also almost no parking lots on Shchugor, in their depraved Karelian understanding. Personally, this only made me happy. Thank God, this river has not yet been trampled and polluted. After the slipway, during our two weeks on the water we did not meet a single tourist.
You can swim 20, 30 kilometers - and the shores will be inhospitable everywhere - either pebbles, or rocks, or hummocky clearings with impassable trees and grass up to your neck. Crooked birches and sick brownish fir trees, overgrown with beards, are interspersed here and there with bright young fir or cedar. There are no pine trees, they appear only on Pechora, where the sand begins.
In principle, you can stand on the edge anywhere, the banks are not swampy 
– which we did in a couple of cases. We got up on the islands a couple of times (marked). I recommend standing on the windward side so that the wind disperses the eaters. But most of the sites indicated on the electronic map are still suitable for the group’s habitat, although they had to be looked for. Officially, only a couple of parking lots are marked with the park - one of them is opposite the rocks of the Upper Gate, and there are also good places in the “alien parking lot” and “parking lot No. 6”; the latter is visible from the water only thanks to a column made of stones. Weather station 
no longer exists as such, but the landmark remains: on the high right bank among the trees, a small gray house and a billboard without an inscription are not immediately visible. There are three dirty mattresses in the house, so it’s better to spend the night on the shore; which is what we did.
Unfortunately, there were no mushrooms in Komi due to a month-long lack of rain, but blueberries could be found on almost all the rocks covered with moss. The lingonberries were just beginning to bloom, and the cloudberries were sitting in the lowlands, but were not in great demand, because the alcohol on them had little tasteJ
It should be noted that the weather was very kind to us this time - in fact, we returned from the resort, and even with live water!
Checkpoints and rangers, opera and poachers...
At the checkpoint in the lower reaches of Shchugor (marked on the palm map), we had great pleasure talking with state inspector Nikolai Mikhailovich, who has been working in the park almost since the day of its foundation and told us a lot of interesting things about the life of the region. From him we learned that it was so hot and so early midges are generally difficult to remember. Therefore, the water is half a meter lower, and there are no gifts...
...The checkpoint is a kind of cordon for raiders from Pechora, but tourists here are treated humanely. Don’t grab too much, don’t make a mess, put out the fires and you will be welcome. Since there were no parking places, we were offered to stop for the night. Part of the group settled in a hut with a stove, while those who loved fresh air set up tents in the yard.
We talked about poaching and fishing. All huntsmen know very well that Turier catches grayling with a spinning rod; Well, he’ll catch a bucket, salt it and fry it, not a big loss. Other animals in the park are scary, about which below...
Operatives subordinate to Komirybvod quietly sneak up on guests on a fantastic ash-hovercraft. Their faces are incorruptible, their gaze is stern... 8) The air cushion allows you to quickly walk along the river and overcome the rifts upstream. The opera catches poachers and gloomily looks into the boats of tourists. But tourists don’t catch salmon, there’s nowhere to put it, there’s a lot of stuff. We can buy salmon every day at a nearby supermarket. Poachers remain...
However, the trouble is that the pepelats cannot climb over the Great Threshold. And poachers mostly operate up to the threshold. True, salmon doesn’t seem to get there, but grayling and lake salmon (peled, brown trout) are probably taken out by truck. They don’t catch them with a spinning rod, do they?...Besides, they shoot, apparently, from animals.
It is no secret that the route for servicing the gas pipeline is the only way to get “wheels into the water” to Shchugor; on the other hand, it certainly caused damage to the park and opened the door to numerous two-legged “predators.”
...From the gas pipeline and almost 30 kilometers down, the poachers’ Urals go straight along the river. Many times we walked along densely packed ruts, running from pebble to pebble, and where there are no spits, the Ural scratches straight along the riverbed for hundreds of meters. On the rifts, the raised wheel with ridges blocks the channel, interfering with the migration of fry. The Pharisee Bridge over Shchugor, built by gas workers, is just an excuse for the park management. As an illustration, the green Ural was shamelessly following us, which had parked “for the night” on the island directly opposite, about 25 km from the bridge. Maybe they were waiting for a “messenger” from the tributary. Perhaps it was the park rangers themselves who were fooling around, but we didn’t swim up to the night guests.
...To be honest, after learning about the water level, I tried to ventilate in Vuktyl, whether it was possible to throw myself downstream in the “Ural” along the river bank. I was given an “ecological punishment,” with which I dejectedly agreed. Now we know that cars run calmly along the riverbed. But now I saw Shchugor too. And I personally don’t like such a barbaric method of getting onto a clean river; I’d rather slog through the wire a little, especially since the upper reaches are very beautiful, and it’s worth a walk there. Today, if I were offered to travel a couple of tens of kilometers by car, I would categorically refuse.
...The cruise boat taking us back to Vuktyl stopped opposite Andronovo, a few kilometers below Ust-Shchugor (marked by the point “poachers”) - a couple of men came out of the forest and loaded a bunch of heavy, tightly tied craft bags on board. There were probably acorns there :)
Big threshold
The rapid starts from the Sumyakh-nyer ridge and flows north in three steps for about 3 km. Each supen is interspersed with some calm. I don’t know how we would have walked the threshold if it hadn’t rained for a day and a half before, adding about twenty centimeters to us... I must say that the threshold pleasantly pleased with the extreme - the first stage was rated as category 2, the second - “three rubles”, the third about 2, 5. By and large, it all came down to skillful maneuvering in a good current between hefty stones, with shafts, drains and even barrels. Our smart but inexperienced kayaker plunged twice, without a life preserver or helmet, but in waders, which made me think about accidents that give rise to tragedies, and that dummies still need to take life-saving equipment on the threshold... All other vessels went well. There is excellent fishing on the threshold, especially before it and after the second stage.
For a catamaran, the jets between the rocks are too narrow, and it seems to me that a catamaran has nothing at all to do on this river.
We passed the threshold in two hours, an hour of which was spent fishing while waiting for the slowest crew. In some reports, “the threshold passed for 3 days” - well, this is the lot of the eliteJ
Telpos-Iz
The ascent to Telpos-Iz deserves special mention. 
This is the highest mountain in the Northern Urals, 1617 meters above sea level. Of course, you won’t get altitude sickness there, but even such mountains once again proved to us that they must be treated with respect.
…The group ascended from “parking lot No. 6” (from the north), making a loop from left to right. Both peaks have been climbed. Of the eight people, only three reached the very top: 
Irina Koloskova, Masha Solovyova and our Ilyukha Postoev.
An excellent digital photo selection was made, fortunately the weather was clear - a huge rarity for Telpos-Isa.
Overestimation of strength and incorrect planning of time for ascent and descent clearly showed that those born to swim will rarely become a climber...)) I ran downstairs until midnight in frustration with a walkie-talkie, every hour contacting Ilyukha, who cheerfully reported that the “little negros” were becoming fewer and fewer , and then he completely fell out of radio communication range...
Part of the group, which left at 10 am, returned only at three o’clock in the morning, completely exhausted. As a result of the… unsatisfactory attitude to the mountain winds of the Northern Urals, one of the group members, after climbing the plateau (not even reaching the top), became seriously ill and lay there for two days in a fever, and for two more days he was dragged in a lying position on a rope in my “corpse wagon” (as they affectionately dubbed “Scout-36”). 
True, it later turned out that there was no hospital in Ust-Shchugor, but, fortunately, the man recovered himself, although he fell into the blues and asked to go to civilization.
Loss of strength and hypothermia could easily provoke pneumonia - one of my friends had already died this way, albeit at a higher altitude... We started fussing, and then it turned out that no one from the group had taken antibiotics! The old wolves are already accustomed to the fact that on mairas campaigns there are only diarrhea and cuts; such a habit could easily turn into a drama for a newbie, given that for three hundred kilometers there are no settlements or roads in that area.
…Telpos-Iz is as majestic as possible for the Urals, which is crumbling before our eyes, and the views from it are magnificent. 
Bare slopes overgrown with harsh lichen, rockfalls, glaciers 
, blue lake water 
, clear streams, a mass of berries on the approaches, wind and primeval desolation... When planning your descent along Shchugor, be sure to set aside time for the ascent - you won’t regret it.
By the way, there is no need to take water up the mountain - there is plenty of your own there. Better dress warmly...
Rocks and caves
The middle course of the Shchugor is replete with beautiful rocks, covered with harsh spruce trees, clinging to the stones with their roots - either in the form of cliffs or long stone walls. The loose rock is interspersed with hard rocks, on which it is quite possible to organize rock-climbing competitions. The Upper, Middle and Lower Gates, framing the river on both banks, are magnificent. There are usually holes near the rocks where you can catch ide or perch.
The main caves are located on the Middle Gate. We foolishly climbed into a shallow (~ 30 m) grotto on the very first rocks of the Middle Gate, but it’s better to do real cave exploration lower down. In addition, we still didn’t understand where the 100-meter cave was... Apparently, on the right bank, where there are numerous “holes”. It would be nice if someone took a jar of acetone with them and erased the plebeian paintings of the “guests” on the rocks. Unfortunately, we were pressed for time and according to the schedule we did not even have time to glance out of the corner of our eye into the dark, inviting openings in the Middle Gate... 
At the Upper Gate, where we had an excellent day in the blueberry field, on the right bank the rock is cut through by a damp gorge of a nameless stream. Along the right bank there is a narrow path that leads to a beautiful waterfall flowing straight from a hole in the rock.
In high water, a grayling comes into the stream to freshen up, and an ide sits in a hole near a rock...
Fish and fishing
Fishing on Shchugor is grayling. 
To catch pike, perch, peled, you need to go to the inland lakes along the banks of the tributaries - Torgovaya, both Patoks. There is ide in some holes. Salmon does not bite in the summer - it does not eat anything at all, rising from the Barents Sea along Pechora and Shchugor. Usually the salmon reaches the rapids and spawns there. In September, having laid eggs, the salmon protects them, attacking everything that swims by and kills. At this time, you can catch it with a spoon, but, firstly, fishing for it is prohibited, and secondly, in September it is already frosty.
A herd of salmon is usually accompanied by a cloud of noisy seagulls. Seagulls seem to have generally taken root on Shchugor: we saw them in the very upper reaches, they sit on spruce trees like owls - a unique sight...JIt remains a mystery how they cling to branches with their webbed feet.
The grayling in Shchugor is large and fighting. We caught carcasses ranging from 400 grams to one and a half kilograms. They didn't take small ones. Grayling bites almost everywhere, best of all - near the rapids, with a lure, and with a fly. Fishing is sporty and exciting. Even children caught it!
The frantic fishing quickly got to me personally, and soon it turned out, as in the well-known joke: “they pour it, let it go...” In the lower reaches, I didn’t take out the spinning rod at all - it’s a pity, especially since I started to come across only females with caviar.
We fried fish, salted them, and made barbecue. There is no grayling fish soup unless you add ide or perch to the pot...
For those who are passionate, but busy and live all year waiting for a single fishing trip, spinning on Shchugor is simply a joy to the soul!
There is no point in harvesting grayling - after a couple of days, maggots are steadily appearing in the canal. So you should catch it only when needed, and after several days of gorging, this need quickly subsides. Know in moderation in everything!
Fishing is officially prohibited in the park, but everyone knows that everyone is caught. 
Fishing is almost the main thing for which people go to a non-category river. It would probably be necessary for park visitors to somehow license the fishing of at least grayling, so as not to hide their fishing rods in fear when pepelats appear. 
As for guns, it’s better to forget about them right away.
Animals and "eaters"
...The animals, having survived the raid of the gadflies, hid in impenetrable thickets. Around Shchugor live a large number of mammals, including predators, but they stay away from people, in this sense the river is safe. We saw a moose with a calf, a reindeer, a huge hare, a chipmunk, frogs, a lot of large longhorned beetles, wasps, bees, and night hawk moth caterpillars. There are butterflies, which is not strange at all - there are a lot of flowers around!
We also saw a small mouse-like rodent with a long tail and an elongated snout, which was taken for a muskrat, brought to me and ran around on my clothes for a long time, after which it found nothing better than to bury itself in the hair... I have to disappoint the public - this is not our totem animal, but shrew or water shrew. Rather, it is the latter - the cutter swims well, does not disdain fry, and, apparently, we found it in the stomach of a large grayling, capturing the carcass in the photo. There is also a possibility that shrews will be washed out of burrows made close to the water. A sharp rise in the river level with heavy rain in the upper reaches takes shrews by surprise - I observed a dead animal floating in the riffle with its paws up. That's why the local graylings are so hefty - they feed on miceJ
Among the birds, seagulls visually dominate, from top to bottom, there are falcons and many hen harriers, looking out for living creatures scurrying in the grass-covered stones.We didn’t see any snakes, we didn’t see any ticks either – it wasn’t the right latitude...
The mosquito, Turya's old friend, was very modest on the river, but the midge became active ahead of time. In the upper reaches there was almost none, but in the lower reaches, when there was no wind, whole clouds swarmed. In one place we stood on the leeward side of the island and paid for our laziness: I have never seen so many midges anywhere! Just look at the ten-second video where I film my legs...J
.. A little midge... (Fr. Davdi)
This amount of midges is explained by the catastrophic heat this year, which is unusual for the Urals. You can only fight small crap with a mosquito net or Gardex-Extreme spray in red cans. Nothing else worked.
To repel midges, a folk method was used - vanillin diluted in water. The coolest thing is that it works! Vanillin does not irritate the skin on the face, but, unfortunately, its smell quickly disappears. In general, Gardex is still more reliable.
But the midge turned out to be nothing compared to what would have awaited us if we had arrived a week earlier!
It turns out that a gadfly was rampant on Shchugor for a month, and even in Vuktyl it devoured people. The driver of the Volga showed me a trunk full of corpses of gadflies - there was no time to clean it. The Ural gadfly is as healthy as an elk; Unlike other eaters, he rips out a piece of skin when he bites, intending to lay eggs there. Throughout July, maddened animals jumped out of the forest and rushed into Shchugor, trying to escape from hordes of skin eaters. The deer were submerged in the water right up to their antlers! In this area, for thirty years now, they have not remembered such heat and rampant gadflies - so we were lucky: the creatures left literally three days before our arrival.
As for the midge, I personally reacted to it without hysteria, considering the creature a common attribute of northern adventures. The midge keeps the routes untrodden and the rivers clean, the grayling feeds on the midge - the joy of the fisherman's soul - may he live, the dirty little beast!... J
“Guzzlers” and scientific discovery J
I made an interesting discovery: the midge on Shchugor does not land on green!
I placed different germs nearby: light green, blue, gray - the midge stuck to everything except the light green one. It’s the same with clothes: white, gray, black, blue, red, yellow are the favorite colors. But the gluttons frankly didn’t bother with a green sweatshirt or a swamp T-shirt! Moreover, the point is not in the structure of the fabric, as some have suggested. For example, a sweatshirt is a very attractive, “warm” and clingy structure, a cotton T-shirt too. However, even on myself I observed this amazing fact: having stuck around my black pants in an impenetrable layer, the midge did not sit on the upper part of the body. If some individuals landed by mistake, they immediately flew off.
The conclusions are obvious...
Perhaps the midge considers green to be a vegetable color and therefore not attractive. But what about, for example, a blue windbreaker or a bright yellow carrington? There is no trace of such animals in the local forests, and she clearly really likes this palette. Mysteries of nature...
...In general, the discovery is worthy of a Nobel prize!J
Stones
Shchugor is a paradise for those who like to dig deeper into stones. The luxurious pebbles, in fact, do not end until Pechora itself. True, carnelians and chalcedony, as on Yarenga, were not found there, nor were gold or malachite, but a magnificent crystal of smoky crystal was found. You come across “eggs” - crystals or quartz rolled into a quartz-like haze. Of several cracked eggs, one revealed frank crystal. In two and a half kilos of stones brought home, I found syenite (a relative of granite, but without quartz), olivines and serpentines (serpentines) of olivine origin, wax patterned jasper (a gift from Romka!J), green jaspers, conglomerates with wax jasper, a sample with crystals of uvarovite (a green variety of garnet). The rest of the beauties could not be classified, but does that make them less valuable?…J
The banks are full of quartzites, and in the upper reaches there are also calcites; alas, one very beautiful sag fell off the boat and was lost...
And we still came across a vein of gold at the top, in a huge boulder lying right in the middle of the riverbed, but there was no time for it - we were dragging, you know, boats...
Sun, wind and boats...
No matter how hot it is, you definitely need to take a warm hat and a good windbreaker with a polar jacket when going to Shchugor. And sun cream. In one sunny day, the Urals can burn the skin much worse than in the South. My arms were burned to the elbows, and my hands became like rubber gloves filled with water from severe swelling. Instead of cream, you can wear a long-sleeved T-shirt and cloth gloves.
The wind in the Shchugor valley always blows in your face, no matter where you turn. On the one hand, this is good - it blows away the bloodsuckers, on the other hand, sometimes it completely prevents you from moving forward.
Inflatable boats are especially affected. The “single-engine” “Scout” sometimes did not move forward at all in strong winds, and in floods closer to the mouth, where the river becomes wide, it did not even move on a rope. “Taimen” with two oarsmen could not budge me at all for several minutes! “Pikes” had to fight hard, but “Taimen” and KB went quite well.
I'll tell you more about my boat. To be fair, I would like to point out that the Scout is just the thing on the road. Thanks to its zero draft, it can handle small riffles perfectly and loves rifts and rapids. In the rapids, I actually had great fun, falling into barrels either sideways or backwards - the Scout is almost impossible to turn over. During the entire trip, it never blew away, nothing came off, and not a single piece of dirt remained on the bottom, although it dragged along the stones kilometers. The quality of Raftmaster is excellent, to say the least. In addition, all my clothes fit into it, surprisingly - “Scout” is an expedition solo, with low weight and normal handling.
I sat almost level with the sides and rowed along them with my usual oar (227 cm). My rowing style has hardly changed compared to Desna. The inflatable bottom turned out to be very comfortable for the legs and the boat itself, which thanks to it “licks” obstacles. But the “bones” of the apron were particularly successful - they constantly fell out of pockets, got twisted - the design was not thought through. In addition, it is better to shorten the front apron - otherwise it is difficult to get in and out often. 
“Scout-36” is basically impossible to “break” at the threshold and is very difficult to pitch.
...But the clothes created a solid hump, which only added to the sailiness of the boat, whose round bows were strongly lifted up. Lake routes and floods with the wind are death for the “single-engine” “Scout”. Scooping out with the last of my strength against the storm gusts at the mouth, I regretted it more than once, that I sold Desna...
...Apparently, inflated clothes are not for women in the spillJI’ll have to buy myself a Marinka, no other way...
I will not undertake to assert, as was said in one report, that “Pikes” are an ideal rafting vehicle for Shchugor. If in the upper reaches they “made” heavy frames on small riffles and rifts, then in the lower reaches they were hopelessly behind and rested their horns in an unequal struggle with the wind... The best boat, in my opinion, turned out to be the design bureau “Kolibri” - loaded under “solo”, it got off with a shallow draft, and excellent performance would have allowed her to always go ahead if Ilyukha 
don't constantly drag someone in towJ
Drop-in and drop-out
To avoid any hassles and unnecessary expectations, it is better to order the delivery in advance. A group of more than 8 people may have problems - we had to order a whole bus stop to Vuktyl, which cost almost twice as much.
You should arrive in Ukhta (trains from Yaroslavka to Sosnogorsk, Vorkuta or Labytnangi) no later than 21.00 - otherwise the car will not make it to the ferry, and you will have to wait for several hours on the banks of Pechora. The car takes about 4-5 hours to Vuktyl. The road is first asphalt, then concrete, then compacted primer, cruising speed is 80 km/h. There are continuous escheated swamps around, Vuktyl itself also actually stands on swamps. And under the swamps there is gas, gas... Not far from the city, the “eternal flame” is constantly burning, burning millions of cubic meters of gas in vain...
You will have to spend the night in Vuktyl, and in the morning register at the park administration and go to the river. By the way, in the same house there is a grocery store where you can buy almost all the necessary food. The Urals do not belong to the park, and the management is forced to look for cars outside, from gas companies. There are “loaves”, they are cheaper. However, the “loaf” with a parallel group broke down before reaching the pass, and we had to take six people with cargo on board.
The car travels along the gas pipeline for about 7 hours. Only along this road can you get to Shchugor. The road, oddly enough, is completely sane. The views from the first pass are very beautiful, you can stop for a snack and take pictures. The main pass is inhospitable - the car crawls along heavily, the road is conditional. For those who have not seen the mountains, the pass over the Tonder ridge will seem like a revelation. The Urals really seem gray from the lichens that cover the fragments of stones on the crumbling peaks...
Two days before our arrival, gas workers prohibited travel along the gas pipeline due to another accident. Thank God, the park management accommodated us for the night in their rooms and resolved this issue.
At the final point there is no particular place to put up a slipway, but a small group can still put up tents near the shore and spend the night. We packed the boats in the evening, so the next day turned out to be fully operational. Slipway coordinates: N 63 18 32.6 E 59 11 20.0, approximately 5 km below mark 389 on the map.
In order to order both cars, you can contact the National Park Directorate no later than 10 days before departure.
Phones: 8-821-46-24-763 Fomicheva Tatyana Savvateevna (park director),
8-821-46-22-639 Valentina Umrilova (assistant director).
Address: Vuktyl, Komsomolskaya, 5.
You can also communicate by mail:ftsnpark@ komifree. ru
All questions can be resolved in writing, including sending a list of the group with passport details and route to save less time on registration. Without a voucher, the group may have problems at checkpoints and with operas.
Just in case, Komi rescue service: 8-821-46-912-63
...The ejection should be discussed separately. For those who do not have problems with funds, you can pre-order a boat from Vuktylakustyu Shchugor through the national park through the directorate, and at the same time a car. But since you will have to pay for both runs, the boat will cost a hefty sum. Therefore, it is better to plan your exit to Pechora so that you leave by Tuesday or Thursday, when a regular boat leaves from Ust-Shchugor to Vuktyl (schedule - 13.30, but sometimes it is late). The boat takes about 4 hours to reach the pier. To make things really good, you can order a car directly from Ust-Shchugor to the pier to Ukhta or Sosnogorsk. There is no post office or hospital in the village, but there are several huts from which you can call, having agreed with the owners. We called from the saleswoman’s house (I should immediately note that the store in the village does not work, everything is brought only to order and you shouldn’t count on food and drink there, unless someone sells natural products - there are cows, vegetable gardens.) We were forced to spend the night on the banks of the Pechora 
in front of the village, on a grassy bank, relying only on their food.
The locals behave quietly, only the sorcerers beg for alcohol, and the day before our arrival, icons were removed from one house...
Taxi control room telephone number in Vuktyl (from Ust-Shchugor): 9-2-10-44
With some minor hiccups, the cargo "Gazelle" was delivered to the pier and for 3,000 rubles and 4 hours brought us to Sosnogorsk, where we immediately bought tickets for the Labytnangi-Moscow train (leaves at half past one in the morning, arrives in Moscow at 5 in the morning).
You can also drive up to the Vuktyla bus station from the pier and go to Sosnogorsk by regular bus. – if you fit in;) There is a stall selling beer and chips on the pier, and it’s quite far from the city.
There is also nothing to eat at the Sosnogorsk night store near the station, so tighten your belts until the first grannies with pies and potatoes at the stopsJ
The described method of ejection is the only real one today. Dreams of leaving on a barge to the glorious city of Pechora did not come true. There are almost no barges and no one they don’t take us on board anymore - we spent almost the whole day idling on the shore, shouting to people passing by watercraft. Forget also about the possibility of leaving by boat or car from Ust-Voi or Berezovka. All roads are winter roads, and boats in the Pechora region were completely canceled this year due to catastrophically low water. Besides, shoveling several tens of kilometers along Pechora turned out to be an unpleasant task: the separated part of the group I rowed in the wind for three days, got caught in a storm with a meter-long wave, there was nowhere to stand on the banks - either waist-deep grass, or taiga - thick dead wood or swamp... The water in the river is disgusting, smells rotten, and the rocks along the bank are covered with an oil film.The Pechora fairway there has not been cleaned for a long time - there are no funds, and accordingly, navigation is getting worse and worse every year. Only chance helped them: the marking boat took pity on the small children and took them to Byzovaya, from where they took a regular bus to the city of Pechora (20 km) and left on the same Labytnangovsky train. As a result, Roma, Masha and Mikhail arrived in Moscow 3 days later than us.
Prices:
I will give the basic prices for 2004, in round numbers:
- reserved seat Moscow - Ukhta – 640 rubles (1 person).
- Gazelle from Ukhtydo Vuktyl - 2500-2600, PAZik - 5000 rubles. By the way, on the way back we were charged money for the ferry crossing, separately - 250 rubles.
- “Ural” to Shchugor: from 10,000 to 14,000 rubles.
- “Baton” to Shchugor: ~ 5000 rub.
- Boat from Ust-Shchugor to Vuktyl – 400 rub. ticket (1 person)
- Car from Vuktyl to Sosnogorsk (or Ukhta) – 3000 rub.
- Reserved seat Sosnogorsk – Moscow – 720 rub.
- Ordering a boat from Ust-Shchugor to Vuktylu – ~ 7000 rub.
Hotel in Vuktyl: from 200 to 320 (1 person). for different numbers.
Overnight "on the floor" at the park management: 30 rubles (1 person).
Travel and more:
- 1 day in the park: 35 rubles per adult and 10 rubles per child
- Photos, videography, travel arrangements, escorts, permits, etc. – a total of approximately 1200. Plus some organizational expenses. VAT, etc. is also added to the amounts; in general, without a hundred grams you can’t figure it out.
I would advise the management to simplify payments to visitors. For example, I can say that I won’t shoot, and I’ll whine 300 rubles. Who will check? And yet, everything is filmed. Therefore, it is better not to increase the list of payments, especially with pennies, as they sent me, but simply to increase the amount of the voucher for an adult tourist. Let's say, up to 50-60 rubles. Then a person will be able to properly calculate in advance how much the trip will cost him, and will be sure that this amount includes everything necessary for payments to the park.
On average, it seems to me that a drop-off trip will cost 150 USD per person. Less than going to Turkey, but much more fun!
Equipment and cards
The creations of human hands behaved differently. Sonisdohla's combat chamber on the third day of the rafting - a part fell out. Considering that the digital camera taken by Irka turned out to have a dying battery, the full-length film this time was covered with a copper basin.
But the compact digital camera performed superbly in field conditions Minolta Dimage G 400. Constant shooting, from water and in the rain, did not particularly affect the life of the camera, and if not for the constant viewing of the footage and deleting it, even one battery might have been enough (a total of 2 batteries were taken, 330 meg of memory.) Unfortunately, in the end along the route, I sowed two flash drives - all the numerous cliffs, rocks, gates and waterfalls I filmed - I sprinkle ashes on my head! – except for one photograph of the Lower Gate, the “figures” of these places no longer exist. The rocks of the middle reaches and lower reaches are filled with a scanner with regular photos and videos. By the way, I would like to note that no filters were applied to any of the photographs in the gallery - everything is “live”.
The couple also worked perfectly: GPS Geko 201 and Palm Sony Clie Peg SJ 22. Three times a day I determined our location with an error of 30 meters on the topographic map. Parking lots, almost all snacks, a threshold, a checkpoint, and an anti-slipway are marked. In principle, we could have done without this, but the exact location helped us understand the distance traveled and determine the speed of movement - the help of electronics in this can hardly be overestimated. “Palma” definitely ruled. Firstly, they were downloaded into it in the format txt all the necessary addresses, reports and descriptions, so as not to carry a pile of papers. Secondly, topographic maps - analogues of paper ones - also lived in it without problems, and the program PathAway version 3.x has proven itself in the most positive way. Thirdly, the presence of a full-screen calculator with a touch screen made our life much easier when making settlements during drop-offs. Fourthly, you can perfectly draw diagrams of thresholds and other things in it, if you wish, I just had a bummer, and I kept my diary the old fashioned way, in a notebook. However, with the help of a stylus and a virtual keyboard, you can take notes, or even better, buy a small flexible keyboard, which is sold to Sonya palms.
The “handheld” lived well, even in damp conditions. No problems connecting to GPS and there was no definition on the map. The wonderful tandem fit in the CD box and rode in a small bag on the boat right at hand.
Black and white copies of the cards in ROM were not needed - the flash drive with color ones worked without failures.
“Geko” also worked without problems, one set of batteries is enough when using the navigator several times a day (without recording a track; a total of 14 days). “Palma” ate its charge, 3 alkaline “Krona” Energizer and a couple of coin-cell batteries; I suspect that they still have a lot of energy left, although the charge was given as much as 60%, but their capacity is also not small.
Actually, with such stable operation of the equipment, it was possible not to take paper maps at all...J(joke) However, there is still some truth in this - not everyone has laser printers and laminate for printing maps, but everyone can upload them to a PDA.
There were three CB radios in the group - two Berkut 601m2 and Alan 42. In principle, one of the radios was practically not used. The different speeds of movement of the crews stretched us for several kilometers, so communication was very useful. Conventional “flexes” did not perform well in a combat situation, and they had to be replaced with “superflexes” with plumb lines. Ilyukhin Alan fell into the water twice, my Berkut was repeatedly exposed to the rain - no problems were observed, except for the batteries dying from the dampness; they were warmed by the fire. The ideal connection was when Telpos-Iz was ascended: camp-mountain - 5, 6, 7 and 8 (top) kilometers. At the same time, Alan was wearing the Berkut “superflex.” However, when the group descended into the gorge and walked on the other side of the mountain, communication practically ceased, sometimes only fragments of phrases were heard.
Sometimes dispatchers were caught on the Berkut in the evenings, but it was completely unclear from which city and which side of the Urals (channel 805). The nearest city was no closer than 80-100 km. However, this did not prevent us from communicating at all, and at some point the dispatcher seemed to us the only way to contact people in the event of force majeure (and force majeure almost came when Knyshev fell ill).
Maps for printing and calibration were taken from the Vesla.ru library, Northern and Subpolar Urals - 6 in total:
Q 40-139,140
Q 40-129.1 30
Q40-141,142
Q40-143,144
P4005-06
P4011-12
Two “three rubles” of the upper reaches and 4 kilometers. In “three rubles” the side of the square corresponds to 10 km, in the rest – 2 km. Electronic versions of maps are built on their basis and are designed for use with a pocket computer. PalmOs and PathAway 3 programs.
I gave the paper kit to the state inspector at the checkpoint - it turns out that the rangers don’t have topographic color maps!
In general, most of the houses indicated on the General Staff spreads no longer exist. But new ones appeared, which I marked on electronic maps for palm.
On the site of the extinct village of Michabichevnik, a house and a bathhouse are already being built - the builders are sure that they are riveting a “residence” for the former head of Komi, and the state inspectorate classifies the buildings as national park objects. The truth could not be foundJ
You can read a detailed description of working with the Minolta Dimage G400 digital camera, Berkut radios, Palm Sony Clie, GPS and PathAway programs in my articles in the “Equipment” section.
Acknowledgments
I would like to express my gratitude to the director of the park, Tatyana Savvateevna Fomichova, and her assistant, Umrilova Valentineza, for their assistance in transporting
And also to the captain of the boat "Puteisky-40" Viktor Kirillovich Shpakov and foreman Vadim for responsiveness and assistance in ejectionAnd also to Ilyukha, without whose help I would still be rowingJ
conclusions
Shchugor is an excellent non-extreme river with unprecedented purity of water, absence of population and ticks, excellent fishing, wonderful views, wild banks, decent flow, rocky cliffs; sailing along it, you feel true relaxation and complete detachment from civilization. Unlike the closed channels of Karelia and lowland rivers, the eye simply rested on the distant hills, sometimes pink from the sunset, sometimes gloomy from the clouds... The colored patterns of licked stones and rock slabs with quartz veins running under the bottom constantly reminded you that you were in the arms of ancient mountains ... And everything else became unimportant and far away. I went on a hike completely sick, like a broken trough, but rowing therapy and cool living water worked a miracle - now Shchugor will be firmly associated with the sanatoriumJ
The first acquaintance with the Urals left the most pleasant impressions, despite the lack of mushrooms this year and the somewhat long route. But it is impossible to shorten it, unfortunately or fortunately.Therefore, Shchugor cannot fit into two weeks; for normal rest he needs 20 days. The entire route (with a couple of days) is covered in 13-14 days, drop-off and drop-off - 5-6 days. The minimum known travel time without days at high water is 8 days. But this is more self-torture than relaxation.
The wind in your face and the midges that appeared in the lower reaches are perhaps the only troubles of the route. I’ve already written about how to deal with midges, but the wind seems to have stressed me out of the whole group...J
The most sane description of the river http://webdesign.perm.ru/005/05/index3302.htm
True, in our low water, a lot of things have changed - there are more stones, and the strength of the rapids is not the same, and the current is weaker, and the water is warmer. In general, we need to make adjustments for the wind :)
Photo: Ilyukha, Roman Soloviev, Khanuma.
Some information about the Yugyd Va park was taken from the Internet.
summer 2004