Medieval castle in France - Mont Saint-Michel. Wonder of the West: Mont Saint-Michel. History of the Abbey Monastery of Mont Saint Michel Monastery plan

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It's hard to talk about Mont Saint-Michel. This castle-abbey is rightly called the Wonder of the West. Everything is a miracle here - the long history, the amazing buildings, and the very atmosphere of an impregnable fortress located on a small rocky island. It is no coincidence that he became the prototype for the fortress of Minas Tirith in J. R. R. Tolkien’s “The Lord of the Rings” trilogy. However, Mont Saint-Michel is even more fantastic. For convenience, I will divide my story into several parts. And today we will talk about its history and geography.

The Abbey of Mont Saint-Michel represents a symbolic model of medieval society. The lower tier is “those who work”: artisans and traders. The middle tier is “those who fight”: knights and kings. Finally, the top tier is “those who pray”: the clergy.

Mont Saint Michel (fr. Mont Saint-Michel, Norman Mont Saint Miché- Mount St. Michael) is a rocky island 80 m high and about 950 m in circumference, located in a huge bay with an area of ​​40,000 sq.m., open towards the English Channel. 3 km from it lies another island - Tromblen, rising 40 m above the bay. These rocks were formed over 20 million years ago from granulite, a very dense crystalline rock. Three rivers flow into the bay - Sé, Selyun and Kuenon, which create new picturesque bends at every low tide.

The strongest sea tides in Europe are observed here; water level fluctuations can reach 15 meters! At low tide, the water retreats from the mainland by more than 20 kilometers, exposing the bottom - the finest quicksand of clay-limestone origin. Walking along such a bottom is quite dangerous: you can easily get stuck in swampy places. During high tides, the sea returns quickly - according to legend, at the speed of a galloping horse. However, this is an exaggeration: the average tide speed is 62 meters per minute, which is also significant and poses a danger to tourists and pilgrims.

These island rocks are visible from afar - the coastal plain is completely flat. And therefore it is not surprising that people have long paid attention to them and considered them sacred. Two French provinces - Normandy and Brittany - are arguing over the right to consider the island part of their territory. Formally, Mont Saint-Michel belongs to Normandy - the border between the provinces runs along the Couesnon River.

This is an incredible sight when two huge buildings suddenly appear on the horizon and, as they approach them, begin to grow - Mont Saint-Michel and Tromblin

Once upon a time, Celtic tribes lived on the mainland. On the rock, which at that time was on land, there was a Druid sanctuary. However, gradually the sea advanced onto the land and the rocks became islands. However, over time, the reverse process began: the Bay of Mont Saint-Michel is filled with sedimentary marine sediments. At the end of the 19th century, when a dam was built connecting the island with the mainland, this process accelerated, now only twice a year Mont Saint-Michel becomes a real island, surrounded on all sides by water.

History of Mont Saint Michel

Founding of the monastery: Ober and St. Michael

The island was originally called Mont Tomb(fr. Mont Tombe), from Latin tumba, meaning "mountain" or "grave". In the VI century. Several hermit monks settled on it and built two sanctuaries. According to a 10th century manuscript Revelatio ecclesiae sancti Michaelis, one night in 708 Oberu, Bishop of the city of Avranches, Archangel Michael appeared in a dream and ordered a church to be built on the rock. The bishop was in doubt, so the Archangel had to appear three times. And the third time, angry for disobedience, he pierced Ober’s skull with his finger. Only then did he begin construction. By the way, on the skull of Aubert, whose relics rest in the Basilica of Avranches, you can see a round dent - a mark from the blow of the Archangel.

A chapel was built on the rock, similar to the sanctuary in the cave of Monte Gargano in southern Italy, where in 492 the appearance of the Archangel Michael took place. The chapel erected by Ober only vaguely resembled an Italian grotto. Two relics were brought here from Monte Gargano: a fragment of a scarlet cloth thrown by the Archangel and part of a marble slab with the imprint of his foot.

Several canon monks settled at the new sanctuary. At the same time, the cult of the Archangel Michael was strengthened throughout the empire. Soon the island became one of the most important centers of pilgrimage and began to be called Mont Saint-Michel - Mount Saint Michael.

And here I would like to make a small digression and talk about the veneration of Archangel Michael in France.

Tower and spire topped with a statue of the Archangel Michael

Cult of Archangel Michael in France

Archangel Michael is revered as a warrior and protector. They believe that he fought with Satan, who took the form of a dragon and plunged him into the abyss of water. He protects the souls of the righteous from insidious demons on the way to Heavenly Jerusalem. According to the Old Testament, he is the intercessor of the people of Israel. In the last battle of Good and Evil, Archangel Michael will stand at the head of the light army. At the Last Judgment he will hold scales on which the good and evil deeds of people will be weighed.

The Holy Roman Emperor Charlemagne chose Archangel Michael as his patron, and in 813 the celebration of St. Michael's Day was established. During the Capetian dynasty (987-1328), the cult of Saint Dionysius became widespread, but in the Valois era (1328-1589) the cult of the Archangel Michael regained popularity. Under Charles VII, Archangel Michael becomes a national saint, the savior of France, who liberated the country from the invasion of the British. It was the words of Archangel Michael that Joan of Arc heard:

I am Michael, patron saint of France. Get up and come to the aid of the French king.

The heroic defense of the defenders of Mont Saint-Michel, besieged by the British, also played a major role in strengthening the cult. In 1469, Louis XI founded the monastic order of Saint Michael, and Mont Saint-Michel became its center. After the French Revolution, Archangel Michael became the emblem and symbol of the French nation.

So it is not surprising that throughout the Middle Ages and beyond, crowds of pilgrims flocked to Mont Saint-Michel.

Archangel Michael. Copy of a statue made by the sculptor Femier, displayed in the cellar of La Merveille

Mont Saint-Michel in the 10th-15th centuries: center of pilgrimage and Benedictines

In 933, Cotentin, a peninsula in northwestern France, was annexed to Normandy, and Mont-Saint-Michel came under the protection of the Dukes of Normandy. In 966, by order of Richard I, third Duke of Normandy, Benedictine monks from Fontenelle (now the Abbey of Saint-Vendrille in Saint-Maritim) were transferred to Mont-Saint-Michel. In their opinion, the life of the canons was not so edifying.

Life of the Benedictines

The Benedictine motto was “Pray and Work” ( ora et labora), established by the founder of the order, Saint Benedict of Nursia in 529. Benedictines take three traditional vows: obedience to the abbot, poverty and chastity, as well as a fourth, additional vow - stability, obliging them to remain in the monastery and not wander around in different places.

Life in the community was strictly regulated: 8 hours were allocated for prayer, 8 for mental work, another 8 hours for work. Services were held seven times a day: at dawn (matins), services of the first ( prime), third ( tierce), sixth ( sexte), ninth ( none) hours, vespers and after vespers. In addition, on the eve of the holidays, Mass and High Mass were celebrated.

Twice a day the monks gathered for a meal, which included bread, vegetables and wine. On holidays, the sick were allowed fish, as well as poultry. Wine, first of all, warmed. It is not surprising that it was in the Benedictine monasteries that the strong drink Benedictine appeared, which I will talk about in more detail in one of the upcoming posts.

At the beginning of the 11th century, 50 monks lived in Mont Saint-Michel, a century and a half later - 60, and since then their number has never exceeded 60.

Construction at the monastery

The Benedictines dreamed that Mont Saint-Michel would become a kind of hymn to the glory of the Almighty. However, it was not possible to place a huge cathedral building on top of the rock that could accommodate all the pilgrims. Then it was decided to first build four chapels, oriented to the cardinal points, which would become a platform for the future building. This is how the crypt of the Great Pylons appeared, facing east, in the south - the crypt of Saint-Martin, in the north - the crypt of Notre-Dame de Trent-Cierge (Our Lady of the Thirty Candles), in the west - the crypt of Notre-Dame-sous-Terre (Our Lady Dungeons). Notre-Dame-sous-Terre is the oldest, containing fragments of a church built in the pre-Romanesque style, possibly the first sanctuary on the mountain. In 1023, construction began on the cathedral in the Romanesque style, which was completed only in 1520 in the Gothic style.

Nave of the monastery church

In 1204, Philip Augustus annexed the Duchy of Normandy, which had been under English rule since 1066, to the Kingdom of France. Breton soldiers, who marched on the side of France, set fire to Mont Saint-Michel. The buildings north of the cathedral were destroyed. However, thanks to the generosity of Philip Augustus, buildings were erected in their place in just a few years (Miracle).

La Merveille is a symbolic representation of medieval society and a symbol of the Holy Trinity: three buildings, each building has three floors, on each floor there is a hall with its own special meaning. However, due to lack of funds, only two of the three buildings were built. The “Western Miracle” includes the cloister of the monastery as a symbol of spiritual food, the manuscript workshop, symbolizing mental food, and the cellars - carnal food. The “Eastern Miracle” includes a monastery refectory, a hall for receiving guests and a refectory for the poor. In the third “miracle,” which was never built, there should have been a chapter hall, a library below, and a stable at the very bottom.

La Merveille, fragment of a wall

In the mid-13th - early 16th centuries, the complex of buildings surrounding the church from the east and south was supplemented with buildings containing the abbot's apartments and halls for lay monastic services.

Pilgrims at Mont Saint Michel

The Abbey of Mont Saint-Michel is the fourth place of pilgrimage in the West after Jerusalem, Rome and Santiago de Compostela. History has preserved the name of the first pilgrim to Mont Saint-Michel. It was a Frank named Bernard. In 867-868, returning from a trip to Rome and Monte Gargano, he visited Mont Saint-Michel.

Since the 11th century, the number of pilgrims has increased significantly. From this time on, wonderful stories about pilgrims also appear. So, according to one of them, a young woman from Lisieux, who was in the last stages of pregnancy, was caught by the tide. In addition, she began to experience labor pains. Anticipating imminent death, she offered fervent prayers to the Mother of God. And a miracle happened: the water parted around her, the woman was relieved of her burden. The next morning, the fishermen found her and the baby safe and sound. Another story tells of an Italian who stole a stone from the abbey without asking the monks and then fell ill. They also talk about miraculous healings after the sick drank the water in which the skull of Saint Aubert was washed...

In the 14th century, a new category of pilgrims appeared - children and teenagers. A kind of madness then gripped all of Europe. Children ran away from home and went on difficult journeys. They were nicknamed “shepherds” - many of them tended flocks. The road to Mont Saint-Michel, where shelters and inns for pilgrims appeared, began to be called “the path to heaven.”

The pilgrimage was dangerous. On the way, pilgrims were often robbed by robbers. They often died from disease. And even in Mont Saint-Michel itself, danger awaited them. So, in 1318, 13 pilgrims were trampled by a crowd that broke into the sanctuary, 18 drowned in the bay, 12 got stuck in quicksand. A Norman proverb says:

Before you go to Mont Saint-Michel, make your will.

To this day, Mont Saint-Michel remains an important pilgrimage center. Pilgrims differ from ordinary tourists in that they walk, accompanied by guides, through the quicksand of the bay. Twice a year the abbey is especially crowded: on May 8 (or the Sunday closest to this date), when the day of the appearance of the Archangel Michael in Monte Gargano is celebrated, and on September 29, on the day of the consecration of the Roman altar dedicated to the Archangel.

Low tide in the bay of Mont Saint Michel. It was along these shifting sands that the pilgrims walked

Defense of Mont Saint-Michel during the Hundred Years' War

The Hundred Years' War broke out in 1337 and ended in 1453. At the turn of the XIV-XV centuries, the abbey and the village were strengthened. However, in 1420, Abbot Jolivet suddenly left the monastery and offered his services to the English. In 1421, the altar part of the cathedral collapsed. In 1424, the naval siege of Mont Saint-Michel began by the British, who had settled on the neighboring island of Tomblaine. It lasted until 1434. Thanks to the protection of the knights and high tides, the fortress-abbey remained impregnable.

Mont Saint-Michel in the XV-XVIII centuries

After the Hundred Years' War, a short period of prosperity for the abbey began, which, however, ended in a long decline. In the mid-15th century, abbots, previously elected by monks, were appointed by kings. The monastery turned into a source of income for them. Monastic life quickly declined.

In 1577, 1589 and 1591, when the Wars of Religion were raging in Europe, Protestants tried to take Mont Saint-Michel. In 1591, a hundred Protestants were killed here under the leadership of Gabriel de Lorges, Earl of Montgomery...

Jail

The first punishment cells appeared in the abbey in the 12th century. Monks who committed serious crimes and those whom the abbot sent to trial were sent here. At the end of the 15th century, by order of King Louis XI, a small part of the abbey was turned into a state prison, the “Bastille of the Sea,” as it was called. Extremely cramped cells were built where it was impossible to either stand up or lie down at full height. In addition, the prisoners were chained to the wall with a chain that jingled with every movement. Huge cages with stakes protruding inside were also built, where the person was essentially immobilized. As a rule, prisoners died within a year. Between 1666 and 1786, 153 prisoners were in this state prison.

In 1793, revolutionaries announced the closure of the monastery and the transfer of property to the state. Mont Saint-Michel, renamed Mont Libre (Mount of Liberty), became a prison that existed until 1863. During this time, 14,000 prisoners visited here. At first, these were priests and peasants, opponents of the Revolution. Then – political prisoners and criminals. The Miracle building housed a straw hat factory.

Restoration and revival of Mont Saint-Michel

Victor Hugo, who visited Mont Saint-Michel in 1863, wrote bitterly:

Toad in a reliquary. When will France finally understand the sanctity of monuments?

In the same year, the last prisoners were transferred to other prisons. However, it was only in 1874 that Mont Saint-Michel was transferred to the administration of “Historical Monuments”, which began the restoration of the abbey.

In 1897, the construction of a tower and spire in the neo-Gothic style was completed (architect Victor Petigrand), on top of which a gilded statue of the Archangel Michael was installed (sculptor Emmanuel Fremier, 1897). Mont Saint-Michel has acquired its current appearance.

At the end of the 19th century, a dam was also built to connect the island with the mainland. Unfortunately, it provoked an acceleration in the filling of the bay with sandy sediments. As a result, over the past 100 years, the level of the island's bottom has risen by 3 meters, which is why Mont Saint-Michel may lose its island position. A project is currently being implemented to build a bridge on the site of part of the dam, the length of which will be 1 km. According to hydrologists, such measures will help free the bay from sea sediments.

Tromblen Island

Tromblen Island is located 3 km from Mont Saint-Michel. In the 11th century, two monks retired here for several years: Robert of Tromblen and Anastas the Venetian. In the 12th century, Abbot Bernard du Bec built a monastery here with a church in the name of the Virgin Mary, which became the center of the so-called “small pilgrimage” to Mont Saint-Michel. At the beginning of the 13th century, when a split occurred in the Mont-Saint-Michel community, Abbot Jourdain hid here.

During the Hundred Years' War, Tromblin Island was occupied by the British, who built a fortress on it. In the 17th century, Tromblin became the property of Nicolas Fouquet, minister of finance at the court of Louis XIV. After Fouquet fell out of favor, the king ordered the destruction of all buildings on the island.

Since 1985, there has been an ornithological reserve on the island.

In the next post I will continue the conversation about Mont Saint-Michel and talk about.

To be continued…

* When writing this post, materials from the guidebooks “Mont Saint-Michel” (Paris, 2006) and “Abbey of Mont Saint-Michel” were used.

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Basic moments

At high tide, this place becomes an island, almost completely cut off from the mainland. Only the dam, built at the end of the 19th century, retains its connection with the abbey. At low tide, the water recedes and the territory of Mont Saint-Michel becomes an ordinary part of the mainland. The walls, cliff and buildings of the abbey create a holistic impression. The height from average sea level to the top of the church spire is 170 m.

The castle of Mont Saint-Michel will seem familiar to many: it became the prototype of the fortress in the film “The Lord of the Rings”. The object did not appear for defensive purposes or for the entertainment of the nobility - it was founded as a monastery. The ancient castle has seen monarchs, military cannonade, and people's discontent during the revolution. Mont Saint-Michel is considered impregnable - it survived three English blockades and did not submit even during a 30-year siege. From ancient times until today it has been a place of world pilgrimage.

Creation of a fortress

The history of Mont Saint-Michel dates back to 708. The Benedictine monks were fascinated by the granite island of Mont Tomb - so they decided to create a chapel on the cliff. The name is associated with a medieval legend: the bishop was ordered to build the church by Archangel Michael. He came three times, but the clergyman doubted the correctness of the sign. Then the Archangel tapped the bishop on the head with his finger, and only then did construction begin.

Guillaume de Volpiano, a very famous person, was appointed as the architect. He was raised by Benedictine monks and built more than one monastery. But the building was a unique structure: it could not be expanded horizontally, so the emphasis was placed on vertical construction. Some rooms even hang over the rock on special platforms. It turned out to be difficult to deliver granite for construction from neighboring islands. The lack of roads, quicksand, and ebbs and flows hampered our efforts.

In 966, a Benedictine monastery appeared on this site in honor of St. Mikhail. A settlement of fishermen arose at the foot, because pilgrims needed to be received and fed, and local monks needed domestic services. But the construction of the fortress continued until the 17th century: walls and towers appeared. The abbey became a powerful structure, combining religious and military architecture. The fortress island had important strategic significance. During the Hundred Years' War, Mont Saint-Michel was considered a reliable French outpost - it did not succumb to the enemy.

In 1790, during the French Revolution, the monastery ceased to exist - the monks were expelled, and the island was called “Mountain of Freedom”. The castle became a prison where inveterate criminals were sent. The people nicknamed Mont Saint-Michel the “provincial Bastille”. The prisoners were kept in stone cages where they could not rise to their full height. The chain of slaves rang with every step. But the pilgrims still came - a chapel was created especially for them.

Since 1863, a new stage in the history of Mont Saint-Michel began. The castle opened its doors, but now for tourists. In 1874, the Benedictines returned here and founded a new abbey. At the end of the 19th century, restoration of the complex began, which continues to this day. You can visit half of the abbey’s rooms; access to the rest is closed. Rooms that are of no interest to visitors were reserved for monks' housing.

Tricks of the sea

An interesting feature of the area is the ebb and flow of the tides. The change occurs once per lunar day - every 24 hours 50 minutes. The tides are considered the strongest in Europe and the second on the planet. In terms of speed, they are even compared to a galloping horse. But this is wrong: the tide “accelerates” to a maximum of 6 km/h, and the average speed of a horse is from 21 to 60 km/h. Due to the shallow depths and flat days, the sea “runs away” 15-20 km from the castle, and then returns.

The “games” of water allowed the castle of Mont Saint-Michel to remain impregnable. The enemy ships could get close to the island, but when the sea left, they ran aground. The infantry also received an inhospitable reception. At first you had to move through quicksand, and then the tide came and the enemies drowned. Fog also served as a natural protection for the fortress - a frequent occurrence in these parts. Local fishermen relied on the sound of a bell, which they rang specifically for those who were lost. The enemies were simply lost in the impenetrable darkness.

In the 19th century, Mont Saint-Michel lost its inaccessibility. To connect the object with the mainland, a dam was built. But it disrupted the water circulation in the bay, and the unfavorable environmental situation in the bay forced us to look for an alternative option. The dam will soon be removed and a bridge will be built in its place. In March 2015, due to a solar eclipse, the tide was so strong that it also flooded the dam. The height of the water reached 14 meters - this is almost a 5-story building. This phenomenon occurs approximately once every 20 years - on the days of the spring or summer equinox.

Mont Saint-Michel welcomes guests

The complex fascinates even from afar. It proudly occupies the top of the rock, and the end of the spire is crowned by the golden figure of an archangel. The walls are impressively thick. Travelers enter through the protruding gates of the fortress wall - the Royal ones. As artillery developed, their design changed its shape. After all, until the beginning of the 16th century, cannonballs were fired from cannons, and only then - shells.

This place unites two towns. The first is the settlement of Mont Saint-Michel. There is a town hall, shops, a parish church and a cemetery on site. The path goes along the main street of Grand Rue. It is occupied by ancient houses of the 15th-16th centuries, which are tightly huddled together. The premises were allocated for souvenir shops, hotels, restaurants and cafes. The residents of this town (about 30 people) not only work in the service sector, but also devote time to agriculture. The town has several museums that will enhance tourists’ knowledge about the fortress. You can watch educational films, see ancient objects and “sketches” on a medieval theme using wax figures, and look at models of ships from different eras.

The second town is more “spiritual”, monastic. From the settlement to the abbey there is a climb along the southern slope of the mountain. There is also a more difficult road that does not cover the main street and museums. You need to turn left after the post office. A steep path leads directly to the gardens. This is the only place on the island where you can have a picnic in the shade. Another path goes through the stairs, which are on the right - near the Royal Gate. Tourists climb the steps to look at the magnificent view. The stairs allow easy access to the walls of the fortress and the tower. The third path leads through the bustling town - the main road with souvenir shops and restaurants. This road is suitable for those who have time.

Walking around the Abbey

Life in Mont Saint-Michel revolves around the abbey. It was built in the XI-XVI centuries. The complex is a fortified monastery and occupies approximately 55 thousand square meters. m. To avoid getting lost, tourists take a brochure with information about the attraction at the entrance. To move from the lower level of the monastery to the upper one, you need to climb the Great Staircase between the rock and the monks' housing. This way guests go out onto the Western Terrace in front of the church. This temple is located on the top of a mountain. It was built in the Romanesque style at the beginning of the 11th century. True, there was not enough space on the rock, and therefore the temple rests on the first church. Over the years of its existence, the building was repeatedly damaged, suffered from fires, and the main tower was struck by lightning. The building was complemented with elements of classicism, Gothic, and neo-Romanesque style. The church is crowned by the spire of the Archangel Michael, which acts as a lightning rod.

To the left of the church, if you are facing the facade, is La Merveille - “The Miracle”. The three-story complex is an architectural masterpiece of medieval Gothic. La Mervey is located on a narrow rock and therefore, unlike local buildings, it has a vertical structure.

In the eastern part of the “Miracle” there was a refectory for monks, accommodation for the poorest pilgrims, and a place for receiving high-ranking guests. The western wing was allocated for the pantry and the Knights' Hall. The monks spent a lot of time there, working and studying. Books and manuscripts were copied here. The northern part of the “Miracle” had to be strengthened with buttresses, but this did not spoil the building at all - on the contrary, it created a delightful artistic effect. And Victor Hugo, admiring the “Miracle” from the sea, noted: “this is a view of the most beautiful wall in Europe.”

A walk along the top floor of La Merveille will be unforgettable. There is an indoor gallery with views of the ocean. The observation deck has earned the reputation of “a garden between heaven and earth.” The impression is completed by the limestone sculptures that adorn the gallery.

There is also an older church here - Notre-Dame-sous-Terre. This building dates back to the 10th century. At first the building was located in the open air. Later it was decided to add vaults to the church, and then it was turned into a tomb.

Around all the structures of the island are powerful fortress walls and watchtowers. These defensive structures were erected in the 15th century. The towers do not rise above the walls - they are protected by them. The loopholes once housed bombards - huge cannons of the Middle Ages.

Picturesque nature of the bay

Many tourists flock to Mont Saint-Michel to enjoy a magnificent view of the water surface from the medieval walls. The bay, with its vast expanse without vegetation, resembles a desert. The calm here is illusory and dangerous. The natural beauty hides powerful tides, fog, thunderstorms and many dangerous areas.

At high tide, the waves travel several kilometers. At the same time, the bay is considered a natural reserve - about 200 species of inhabitants live here. The fertile mud attracts ducks and other birds that feed on it. About 100 species of fish are born in the waters of the bay. The place is also attractive for fur seals, which breed here. About 10 thousand mussels are grown here every year. Although plants cover about 1% of the area, thousands of sheep graze here.

Lunch within the walls of the fortress

If you plan to stay overnight, bring a small lunch. Having lunch during the daytime will not be difficult: travelers will find snack bars, burger bars and pancake bars. Breton restaurants are open. The menu includes meat dishes, seafood, salads. In the evening, establishments close. Be sure to try the local omelet. It would seem a simple dish, but its fame resounds throughout the world. Previously, they were treated to pilgrims who always appeared unexpectedly. Today they treat tourists. The omelet recipe is still kept secret.

Checking the schedule

It is better not to plan a trip to Mont Saint-Michel in the summer - at this time there are too many tourists, which means it will be difficult to enjoy the extraordinary view from the fortress walls of the abbey. The weather in this part of France is influenced by the harsh winds of the Atlantic. It's cool here - you need warmer things than sundresses and sandals.

Be sure to check the tide chart. Then you can choose the right time for a photo hunt. The tides begin unexpectedly: just a few minutes ago the sea was splashing around, and the sand began to appear. He seems harmless. But once you step on the surface, it turns out that the sand is treacherously unsteady. It has a special structure: when mixed with sea water, it becomes viscous; when it dries out, it is dense, so few tourists are willing to risk walking along the bay without checking the sea’s “schedule.”

People, having created a 2 km long dam, “stole” Mont Saint-Michel’s unusual appearance. It is now a real island only a few times a year. Then particularly strong tides flood even the surface of the dam. But usually the raging elements do not interfere with cars, so the number of tourists only increases. However, only a third of visitors reach the very top of the cliff, where the ancient church and monastery are located.

Many decide to stay in a sacred place for several days. The abbey has small inns where travelers stay. In the evening, the corners of the castle are free from noisy tourists. You can breathe in plenty of the salty, intoxicating air of Mont Saint-Michel, and catch the magical moment of the onset of the tide. The abbey is beautifully lit, but the walls are only illuminated by the reflections of the lanterns. Guests are offered night tours of the fortress. At this time, the halls of the monastery are empty, the main street becomes less busy - you can leisurely get acquainted with the architectural features of the abbey.

The Mont Saint-Michel fortress also has opening hours. In May and summer the abbey opens from 9 am. The last tourists are allowed into the territory until 6 pm. During the rest of the period, the time shifts: from 9:30 to 17:00. But if the tide prevents access to the site, the opening time will change. On holidays, Mont Saint-Michel “rests”: January 1, May 1 and December 25.

In the Extruded Gate Pavilion, check out the Visitor Information Center. Here they will provide information about the attraction, as well as a tide schedule. The cost of visiting is 8.50 euros. You can use an audio guide, but then entry will cost 12.50 euros. Tours are conducted for visitors: twice an hour - in French, twice a day - in English.

From the capital to the fortress island – 285 km. Tourists rush here by trains, buses and their cars. A trip to Rennes by rail costs 55.8 EUR. Then you need to transfer to a bus, which leaves directly from the train station, and get to your destination. The ticket costs 11.4 EUR. The journey in total will take a little over three hours. Tickets towards the abbey are purchased from the cashier, and when traveling back - from the driver. Brown "Attraction" signs are a great help for tourists.

The location of the rock island does not allow buses and cars to drive directly to the site. The vehicles are parked in a parking lot a few kilometers from the attraction. There is a narrow path leading to the abbey, so tourists travel the rest of the way on foot or use special buses that run here. Previously, the features of the road did not even allow them to turn around. Because of this, the vehicle had two entrances, like subway cars - on the sides. Now the path has been slightly widened.

Tell me, dear readers, do angels often visit you in your dreams and give you tasks? Does it happen that when you do not fulfill the demands of the angels, they hit you on the head, so much so that in the morning a dent remains on your head? No, no, everything is fine with me, it’s just thanks to such a miracle that we owe the appearance of the most beautiful place in France - the Abbey of Mont Saint-Michel. And this is not a medieval pious legend at all, because... British scientists actually discovered a dent on the skull of the founder of the monastery. But first things first.

On an early and pleasantly warm August morning, we rode out on bikes. On this day we needed to get to the island of Mont Saint-Michel. The distance from the famous abbey is approximately 45 km, and after yesterday, when we strained ourselves a little on the shorter route from , I decided not to rush and save energy.

Fortunately, the road was very conducive to this. Almost immediately, a wonderful bike path began from Fougères. In general, there are quite a lot of them in Brittany. I provided a link to a map of cycling roads in Brittany. The fact is that previously there were many railway tracks that crossed the entire region in different directions. But at the end of the last century they fell into disrepair, and the authorities decided to demolish the rails and in their place create such a gift for cyclists. Because They try to make railway tracks with a minimum slope and as straight as possible, so traveling along such a route is a pleasure. Some of them stretch for tens of kilometers, on our route we coincided with the path for a little less than 10 km, but still I received extremely pleasant emotions, even on such a short section.

When the path ended, or rather, we turned off it, because... she went west towards Saint-Malo, and we had to go east, towards the border with Normandy., then the road still remained very pleasant. We passed picturesque villages.

This time I tried not to drive, but to stop in beautiful places, relax and take pictures. Isn't that great?

There were no strong slopes, then when I checked the tracker, it turned out that the balance had shifted towards the descent. Those. We rode downhill most of the time. The landscapes on the sides of the road looked something like this.

How can you not stop here?

Finally, we reached the Brittany border with.

It would seem that the regions are very close, but it seemed to me that the villages in Normandy looked richer. Many houses are interestingly decorated, for example, someone obviously lives with connections to the sea, there is a lighthouse and a ship’s propeller in front of the house.

Even the churches began to look different, although they moved only a few kilometers from Brittany.

In general, this time the 40 km to our hotel flew by unnoticed, although we made many stops and drove for almost three hours according to the tracker. But we hardly got tired.

And when, on the horizon behind the next field, I saw a tiny mountain, I was wildly delighted! It was a real state of catharsis when, after two days of torment, I finally found my little paradise.

We checked into the hotel Le Beauvoir in the village of the same name, about 5-6 km from Mont Saint-Michel. You could, of course, book a hotel right on the island, but for our dates the most budget option started at 250 euros per night. Even taking into account that we divided all the expenses between two (i.e. it turned out to be approximately 9 thousand each), I still decided that, taking into account that we were on bikes, a very decent hotel for 70 euros just 5 km away was much more reasonable. Just think, it’s a 15-minute drive, so there’s no point in spending money on housing on the island.

Hotel Le Beauvoir turned out to be quite worthy (7.5 rating on booking). The most important thing is that they had their own parking lot and even a garage for motorcycles and bicycles. Great! In general, the question that worries many people is where to spend the night relatively inexpensively, but at the same time decently, in Mont-Saint-Michel has been successfully resolved.
http://www.booking.com/hotel/fr/le-beauvoir-beauvoir.ru.html

By the way, the photo was taken just from the hotel. The location is great.

Of course, we couldn’t wait to get to the island faster. I lay down a little in the hotel... and slept for almost two hours, the angels in my sleep did not bother me. After which we wanted to have lunch, so we left for Mont Saint-Michel only around four o’clock. On the way from the island I made one mistake. I should have ridden my bike straight to the entrance, but I was afraid that there would be no place to leave my bike there. So we tied our bikes up in one of the parking lots and walked the remaining couple of kilometers. So, I will say that it is quite possible to leave bicycles right on the island, everyone does so. More precisely, they tie them to the railings of the bridge that leads to Mont Saint-Michel. Well, oh well, but we had a great walk. Maybe it even worked out better. Because We had enough time.

I realized that Mont Saint-Michel produces the main effect on tourists due to its surprise. All around stretches an absolute flat plain, some colorless sandy plains, withered grass, an endless expanse of water, and suddenly in the middle of this melancholy landscape, like an atomic explosion, a mountain with a city and a monastery forms. The eyes don’t believe it at first, but as you get closer, Mont Saint-Michel turns from a miracle and a mirage into a real and fleshy mass of stones.

This year, Mont-Saint-Michel completed the reconstruction of the entrance to the island. And now, instead of a stupid dam, an elegant bridge leads to the island. What’s nice is that all parking lots have been removed from the immediate vicinity of this miracle and now you can enjoy the views to the fullest.

Church of Saint-Pierre.

Favorite half-timbered building.

Well, well, the sun is starting to set. We must hurry to see the sunset.

La Mère Poulard is not only a souvenir shop (on the right in the photo), but also the most famous and delicious omelette in France.
http://www.merepoulard.com/
This restaurant cooks Aunt Annette's omelettes over an open fire. Auntie is quite greedy, so one hundred grams of the famous omelette will cost you at least 25 euros. We decided to ignore this attraction.

Well, the sun had set and it was time to head back to the hotel. I strongly recommend checking the tide schedule for Mont Saint-Michel, I think you can easily find it online. You can experience a unique natural show when the surrounding area is flooded with water before your eyes. But in our case, nothing like this was expected, so we went back to our village with a clear conscience.

We walked backwards, because... We couldn’t stop admiring the evening views of Mont Saint-Michel. As a result of the walk, I was very impressed. Yes, during the time that I have been blogging, I constantly see reports on Mont Saint-Michel in the feed and in communities. It would seem that the place is completely hackneyed, but still pictures are pictures, but in reality it is very catchy.

At this rate, we returned to the hotel only at 11 pm, and of course, there were no places left for dinner in our village. Fortunately, there was a bar in the hotel, and Olka had sausage and baguette left over from yesterday’s picnic in Vitre. I decided to surprise Olka with the wine we had last year, I mean Gewürztraminer, of course. So we had a very “hearty” dinner with a bottle of wine for two and, full of impressions, went to bed. Tomorrow we had to hit the road again to Saint-Malo, and the journey was even longer than today.

France: Church of Saint-Michel d'Aiguilhe

The town is Le Puy-en-Velay. 269 ​​steps lead up to a rock ledge on top of a mountain of volcanic originChurch of Saint-Michel d'Aiguilhe.

Originally there was a chapel built here in 961 in the Carolingian style - a square chapel with three apses; it was later converted into the choir of a Romanesque church. This church was added to the chapel in the 12th century and occupied the entire remaining part of the rock. Its builders had to adapt to the terrain, and therefore the church turned out to be almost oval in plan. The capitals of the load-bearing columns and even the façade of the church are replete with reliefs.

There is almost no detailed historical information on the Internet.

The chapel was built in 962 on the ruins of the ancient Roman temple of the god Mercury. In subsequent times, the chapel, built on an almost 100-meter rock (82 meters high to be precise), located in the middle of the town, was rebuilt several times, and now Le Puy is an-Vele often acts as a starting point for the so-called. “Christian tourism” - pilgrimage to the famous Santiago de Compostela in Spain. To get to the chapel, you need to overcome 268 fairly steep steps.

This is how Catherine Benzoni describes this place in her novel:

“Puy-en-Velay! The city spread like a gigantic multi-colored stream from the portico of the magnificent Romanesque church with its crown of turrets and domes. Catherine and brother Eusebius contemplated this amazing sight that opened before their eyes for some time. Catherine's amazed gaze passed from the holy hill, the ancient Moi Ani, standing out against the blue sky, to the huge rock standing nearby, and then to the nearby volcanic peak of Saint-Michel-d'Aiguil, which, like a finger, was proudly directed into the heavens and is crowned by a small chapel. Everything in this strange city seemed to serve God. Everything came from him and returned to him... Passing through the gate and heading towards the city center, the travelers were amazed by the bright decoration of the bustle that reigned here. Banners and pennants fluttered from the roofs of houses, and long strips of colored silk and tapestries hung from windows facing the street. Catherine was surprised to see a group of Scottish riflemen making their way through the crowd.

“The city is celebrating something,” said Brother Eusebius, who had been silent all day, “but what?”

Catherine remained silent. She felt that there was no need to answer him, but still called out to the boy running past with a jug on the way to the source.

- What do all these banners, silk panels and all this fuss mean?

The boy looked at Catherine with brown eyes, sparkling cheerfully on his lively, freckled face, and politely flashed his green hat.

“Our lord the king entered the city the day before yesterday along with Madame the Queen and the entire court to pray to Our Lady and spend Easter here before going to Vienne, where the Estates General are meeting. It will be difficult for you to find a home. All the hotels are full because Monsignor Constable is due to arrive today...

- The King and the Constable? - asked Catherine in surprise. - But they are in a quarrel!

- Exactly! Our king has chosen the cathedral as the place where he intends to regain his favor again. They will hold Easter vigils together today.

- Do the pilgrims gather here to travel to Kompostsla?

- Yes, dear lady. The hospice house near the cathedral is full of them. You need to hurry if you want to join them.

- All pilgrims are equipped in the shop of Master Krause. You can buy the most durable and best made clothes from him...

“Thank you,” Catherine interrupted, noticing that Brother Eusebius’s usually expressionless eyes were fixed on her with curiosity. “We need to go to find shelter.”

If fairy tales live somewhere, then this place is located on the northwestern coast of France on the border of Normandy and Brittany in the Abbey of Mont Saint-Michel. I was there several years ago and am still incredibly impressed, regretting that I never tried the famous “Mother Poulard omelette” (La Mère Poulard). But more on that later.

This magnificent ancient abbey, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, sits at the very top of a rock island that was once called Mont Tombe. Twice a lunar day (24 hours and 50 minutes) high and low tides occur around the abbey, the strongest on the entire coast of Europe!

At high tide, Mont Saint-Michel with its Gothic spiers appears from afar, like a mystical island floating above the surface of the water. And at low tide, the water can move 18 km away from the island, exposing sand dunes. By the way, you can walk along them under the guidance of a knowledgeable guide, because the water comes back at the speed of a galloping horse. There is no point in describing the abbey - it is better to see once than to hear a hundred times. I, in turn, will try to give you all the information that I have.

How to get there

Unfortunately, there is no direct transport connection between Russian cities and Mont-Saint-Michel. Therefore, let's agree that we will consider the city as the starting point of our journey. You can read about how to get from Russia to Paris.

Although the road to the abbey no longer poses such a danger as in the Middle Ages for wandering pilgrims, it takes quite a lot of time and, at first glance, does not seem too trivial.

By car from Paris you have to travel 3.5 hours one way. You can also take the train to the Breton city of Rennes and then take the bus to the abbey. In my opinion, the most convenient option is to book a day tour on a bus departing from the center of Paris. But let’s talk about everything in more detail, and you will choose the option that is acceptable for you.

By plane

Due to the unique location and tiny size of the abbey, it is impossible to reach Mont Saint-Michel by plane. As I said above, you can fly to Paris, and then rent a car, use the services of French railways, or take a bus.

In addition, one of the closest airports is Rennes–Saint-Jacques Airport, but there are no direct flights from Russia.

By train

Both on weekdays and on weekends, you can get to the abbey using the services of the company SNCF. You just need to take the high-speed train departing from the 15th arrondissement of Paris from Montparnasse station ( Gare Montparnasse). It will take you to the city of Rennes ( Rennes) or Dol de Bretagne, and then you can transfer to the train or bus going to the famous abbey.

A one-way ticket will cost, at best, 52 EUR. Trains run every 40 minutes to an hour depending on the time of day. After this you need to transfer to a shuttle bus. Travel time will be approximately 4 hours. On the site SNCF You can purchase a combined train + bus ticket.

There is another option, a little energy-consuming, but very interesting. By train from Paris (this time from Saint-Lazare station) you can get to the city of Caen in Normandy, and then transfer to the train to the town of Pontorson, located 10 km from the Abbey of Mont Saint-Michel . Then you should take a shuttle bus or rent a car. The schedule for a direct shuttle bus from the town of Pontorson to the Abbey of Mont Saint-Michel can be found. The cost of a one-way ticket is 2.8 EUR. Please note: on the bus and to the abbey they won't let you bring a dog.

Electric trains run to Pontorson from the Breton city of Rennes and from the Norman city of Rouen. In the first case, the travel time will be 50 minutes, the ticket will cost 14.7 EUR. There are 2 trains daily from Rouen to Pontorson, departing at 12:04 and 14:04. A ticket for them will cost 48 EUR, and you will spend at least 4 hours on the road.

By bus

In my opinion, a day tour to Mont Saint-Michel (for example, with a group) would be a great idea for solo travelers Viator). This tour will take 14.5 hours and cost about 170 EUR. It includes:

• the way to the abbey(departure from the very center of Paris from the metro station Pyramides or from the door of your hotel);
• lunch in one of the coastal restaurants overlooking Mont Saint-Michel;
• guided tour by the city, abbey and ramparts;
• free time for a walk and the way back.

Another option is to use the services of a company Flixbus. Her buses are leaving on weekends from Paris metro stations ( La Defense or Porte Maillot) and arrive back in the evening. A ticket will cost you 24.90 EUR one way. Departure from Paris occurs at 7:30 am, from Mont Saint-Michel - at 17:20 pm. Travel time will be about 5 hours. Please note that on Saturday and Sunday buses depart from different metro stations!

By car

How to get there from Paris

The most convenient way to get to the Mont Saint-Michel Abbey is, of course, by car. If you are coming from Paris, you should take the A 13 to Caen, then take the E 401 to Avranches and via Pontorson on the D 976 directly to Mount Saint-Michel. Please note that the road, as well as parking near the abbey, is paid.

The cost of parking for 24 hours is 11.70 EUR, less than 2 hours - 6.30 EUR. Please be careful and do not lose your parking ticket; you will have to pay 23.40 EUR for a lost ticket.

There is a beautiful idea to recreate the maritime character of the road to Mont Saint-Michel, which in the Middle Ages was overcome by pilgrims on their way to the abbey. Therefore, the parking lot is located quite far (about 35 minutes on foot over the new bridge) from the only entrance to the abbey - the Porte de l'Avancee gate.

Path to the abbey from the parking lot

Once in the parking lot, head to the Place du barrage and from there walk across the new bridge to the abbey, then you can take wonderful photos.

In general, there are 3 ways to get to the abbey, one of which is on your own feet (I mentioned this above). In addition, you can take advantage of public transport, incredibly appropriate for this fabulous place. There are two modes of transport connecting the car park and the abbey: one is ( Le Passeur)- this is a gray bus that is driven by electric traction, the second one ( La Maringote) is a cart pulled by Norman draft horses. A wonderful way of transportation for those who decide to try on the shirt of the Middle Ages.

In the first case, the journey will take approximately 10 minutes with several stops. Departure is from Place de Navette ( Place des navettes ), this type of transport is absolutely free. If you want to ride a horse-drawn carriage the old-fashioned way, a one-way ticket will cost 5.30 EUR, and it will take longer - about 25 minutes.

Clue:

Mont Saint Michel - time is now

Hour difference:

Moscow 1

Kazan 1

Samara 2

Ekaterinburg 3

Novosibirsk 5

Vladivostok 8

When is the season? When is the best time to go

In the western part of France, where Mont Saint-Michel is located, winters are mild and summers are cool, because a temperate maritime climate prevails here. February, with an air temperature of +5–7 °C, is considered the coldest month, and August, with temperatures up to +20 °C, is considered the hottest.

Rain in Normandy is a frequent occurrence. There is a lot of rainfall here throughout the year, so I recommend taking an umbrella. It's hard to name the best time to travel. Mont Saint-Michel is one of the most visited places in France after Paris with its main jewel, the Eiffel Tower, so there are always a lot of tourists here, and prices for housing and food remain the same.

But, for example, the mussel season ends in February and begins only in July. Maybe this will somehow influence your choice of dates for your visit.

Mont Saint Michel in summer

July and August are considered the best months to visit Normandy due to the cool climate and less rainfall than usual. However, despite the fact that schoolchildren have their summer holidays in the summer, the number of tourists in Mont Saint-Michel does not change in principle - there are always a lot of them! On warm summer evenings, grandiose performances and classical music concerts are held within the walls of the abbey. You can sit on the outdoor terraces of the restaurants and enjoy fresh seafood delicacies with a glass of chilled Normandy cider.

In my opinion, summer is the best season to come to Mont Saint-Michel!

Mont Saint Michel in autumn

Early autumn in Lower Normandy, as throughout France, is good. The weather is still summer, and the flow of tourists decreases slightly, especially in October. November is considered the most depressing month, although at the end of the month the abbey, already dressed in Christmas decorations, certainly looks very festive and even, dare I say it, gingerbread.

Mont Saint Michel in spring

In spring and autumn (on the days of the autumn and spring equinoxes), the most powerful ebbs and flows occur around Mont Saint-Michel, and for this reason alone it is worth coming here at this time of year. In addition, apple and cherry trees begin to bloom, and the air seems to be permeated with the aromas of flowers. The city is painted with bright colors, flower pots with primroses are displayed everywhere - spring is coming in Normandy.

Mont Saint Michel in winter

Winter in Normandy... rainy. If you decide to travel to Mont Saint-Michel in winter, then, strange as it may sound, take an umbrella with you, or even better, rubber boots. Please note that the abbey is closed to the public on December 25 and January 1. But this is the best time to try the freshest oysters and mussels!

But I'm afraid that for those who are not used to heavy rains, fog, and again this time heavy rains, a trip to Mont Saint-Michel in winter may be a disappointment. But if you go here in winter, it’s better to stay for 2 days. To see the ebb and flow of the tide and have time to admire the golden spiers of the abbey in the rays of the setting sun. And how beautiful the sunset is in these places!

Clue:

Mont Saint-Michel - weather by month

Districts. Where is the best place to live?

For those who decide to stay in the Abbey of Mont Saint-Michel, there are two options to choose from: housing within the city walls and hotels located 2 km outside the city.

There are not very many intramuros hotels, the rooms are small and the prices are high. The cost of living for two per night will cost 90 EUR and more. However, you can admire the ebb and flow of the tide from the window of your own room, walk without thinking about time, and drink wine or other spirits with dinner without worrying about having to drive. On a late summer evening, you can watch a performance or listen to a concert and take your time returning to the hotel.

If you are looking for more modern and comfortable conditions for an overnight stay, then you should definitely pay attention to the hotels located near the Mountain. The nearest town, as you can see on the map above, is called La Caserne. A room (often with a terrace and panoramic view of the abbey) will cost about 55 EUR if you book in advance. Keep in mind that in reality there are many more hotels in La Casserne and the surrounding area of ​​the Mountain than indicated on the map above. You can search for options and compare prices, for example. And it’s convenient to make a reservation at.

Often, from hotels located near Saint-Michel, free shuttle buses run throughout the day and evening to take you to the parking lot at the foot of the Mountain and back to the hotel.

There are no hostels, like in big cities, at the foot of Mont Saint-Michel. If your budget is limited, you can stay in the so-called auberges de jeunesse(youth hostels). Some hostels have age restrictions (e.g. up to 30 years old) and a discount with an ISIC student card is possible. Also very popular Chambres d'hotes, where tourists are given the opportunity to live on the territory of a private house, but in a separate room. Usually breakfast is included in the price of your stay, and often the hosts will keep you company, which can be extremely useful - you can chat with them and learn interesting things that only locals can tell.

What are the prices for holidays?

Accommodation

Being one of the most tourist places in France, Mont Saint-Michel's prices are absolutely not shocking. A night in a hotel within the city fortifications will cost 90–120 EUR, in the nearby town of La Caserne - from 55 EUR and above. The more beautiful the view of the abbey from the room window, the higher the prices. However, if you take care of booking a room in advance, you can save a lot.

Road

A train or bus ride from Paris will cost you an average of 50 EUR one way, but you won’t have to pay for parking. Entrance to the city is free, but the ticket to the abbey is expensive (10 EUR per adult), but free for those under 18 years of age.

Excursions

You can also save on museum tickets by purchasing a card for 4 city attractions at once, which will cost your wallet 18 EUR.

Nutrition

Lunch, for example, at a pancake house will cost on average 15 EUR if you order a main course, dessert and a jug of cider. And in the evening you won’t be able to eat for such a modest amount - the minimum price for dinner without alcohol is 25 EUR.

Main attractions. What to see

The city on Mount Saint Michael (that’s how Mont-Saint-Michel is translated), which bears, among others, the name La Merveille or “The Miracle”, is itself, so to speak, one big attraction. It was founded in 709, welcomed Benedictine monks into its walls, became a fortress with its own garrison in the 11th century, and survived several fires and the French Revolution.

The most interesting and main point of your visit will, of course, be abbey, which I will talk about below in the “Churches and Temples” section. However, there are other places in the city that are worthy of tourist attention. But first things first.

Top 4

Beaches. Which ones are better

The Saint-Michel Rock rises above the bay in the middle of the bay of the same name, so at low tide the city stands in the middle of a huge beach, which, however, must be walked carefully. Of course, there is no question of swimming here. The Bay of Saint-Michel is a so-called estuary - a flooded mouth of a river, so it experiences the highest and fastest tide in France!

On the days of the autumn and spring equinox, during the most powerful low tides, the mountain is surrounded only by raw sand. The sea retreats from it for several kilometers, but after 5–6 hours the water rushes to the lonely rock at the speed of a galloping horse (6–9 m/s).

Churches and temples. Which ones are worth visiting?

Abbey of Mont Saint-Michel (l’Abbaye)

To get to the abbey, you need to overcome the main gate of the city, the only street Grande Rue, and then climb a long staircase of 350 stone steps and enter Guardroom. The visit is possible daily (except December 25, January 1 and May 1) from 9:00 to 19:00, the ticket price for an adult is 10 EUR, for children under 18 years old it is free. You can find all the necessary information and plan your visit on the abbey’s official website.

Entrance is possible to almost all rooms of the abbey, which you can explore, for example, by renting an audio guide (4.5 EUR). However, it is worth noting that the ticket price includes a one-hour tour in English or French. Every day there are 6 excursions within the walls of the abbey; you can catch the last one if you arrive half an hour before closing.

The architectural complex of the abbey is located on several levels. A detailed map can be obtained from the tourist office or when purchasing a ticket.

I desperately recommend going out to the observation deck located on the terrace at the foot of the church. From there you have an incredibly beautiful view of the bay and islands Tombelaine and îles Chausey, where blocks and stones were quarried to build the abbey. Every year November 8 From this terrace you can watch the sun set behind Mount Dole. According to legend, it was on this day that St. Michael fought a dragon there.

My then future husband and I were lucky to attend a very interesting light show held within the walls of the monastery. At the same time, in each room of the abbey there were art objects and music was played, which was very memorable, because all the rooms themselves are very ascetic.

The heart of the abbey, which is spoken of in the legend of the bishop and St. Michael, is considered to be the chapel Chapelle Notre-Dame-sous-Terre. It is tiny in size, only 11 by 13 m², but this place is really worth a visit, because centuries-old history began here.

Among other must-see places, I would also like to mention knight's hall, called Scriptorium. It was there that medieval monks copied books and studied.

Abbey Church (Eglise Abbatiale)

This church is the top of the level system of the Mont Saint-Michel Abbey, as well as the rock itself. It was built in the 11th century and rises 80 meters above sea level. The interior of the church is very modest. The transept is oriented so that every year May 8 the sunrise is clearly visible behind the altar. Upon entering the church, you can notice a carved stone coat of arms with lilies and shells - this is the coat of arms of the Abbey of Mont Saint-Michel. The church holds masses every day at quarter past one, which you can attend.

Museums. Which ones are worth visiting?

There are four museums on the Grande Rue: the Archaeoscope, the Historical Museum, the Maritime Museum and the House of Tiffany. A visit to one museum will cost 9 EUR, and a single ticket to all three will cost 18 EUR. Museums are open daily from 9:30 to 17:00. It is worth noting that all of them (except Morskoe) are closed for the winter holidays, which differ in dates in each region of France, but conventionally take place in February. For visitors up to 18 years old entrance to museums free.

Tourist streets

Beyond Main Street Grande Rue, which is mentioned many times in this article, I advise you to take a walk through the small streets of the city, which often do not even have a name. Usually they are not very crowded - it is almost impossible to meet tourists who come on an excursion here. Peace and quiet reign here, and the most common buildings are so-called half-timbered houses - buildings that do not have load-bearing walls.

The load-bearing frame is provided by an internal wooden structure consisting of beams, posts and diagonal struts intersecting at right angles. The space between the beams is filled with clay and sand, the surface is plastered, and the protruding architectural elements in Normandy are painted in bright colors.

This walk will take you a little time, but an unforgettable experience is guaranteed!

What to see in 1 day

If you are lucky enough to visit Mont Saint-Michel for even one day, I ask you to familiarize yourself with the tide chart before starting your visit. This can be done online or at the local tourist office, on the outer wall of which there is a special table ( horaire des mares). In addition, the office sells a detailed map of the abbey. If you have the chance to see the tide with your own eyes, I consider it a huge success!

After such a long walk, you will probably get hungry. In addition, in France there is a full have lunch only possible with 12 to 14 o'clock, so I suggest you relax and try local cuisine in one of the restaurants in the city.

• 12:30 Dinner. If you book a table in advance, it is quite possible that you will be able to try the famous omelette La Mere Poulard. If not, then try coming to this restaurant for good luck - maybe you’ll get lucky and there will be seats! Or, as a last resort, just look into the panoramic windows of the restaurant. In them, as in a theater, a real show will unfold in front of you in preparing the most fluffy omelette in the world, accompanied by the music of whisks beating the yolks separately from the whites.
• 14:00 - Visiting of museum. I suggest you visit only 1 museum, the choice of which I will leave at your discretion.
• 15:00 - If your legs are still strong, I suggest taking a walk through the few streets of the old city, turning off the main street anywhere, and also taking an unforgettable walk around the rock itself along the damp sands at low tide. It will take half an hour of your time, and will leave impressions for a year to come.
• 16:30 - You may have a desire to buy souvenirs. This can be done, as you already understood, by Grande Rue. Don't forget to check out the souvenir shop La Mere Poulard and try the salted caramel. This is delicious!

It would be great if you could stay overnight in Mont Saint-Michel, because then you could taste the incredibly tender lamb meat Agneau de pré-salé, which I will talk about below in the “Food” section » , with a glass of red wine. If you are not a fan of meat delicacies, I suggest ordering a bowl of mussels, grown right at the foot of the City-on-the-Mountain, with a glass of white.

• 19:00 - A delicious dinner on the terrace with a panoramic view and the opportunity to see the water arriving at incredible speed will leave an indelible impression of your holiday.

What to do with the remaining evening time is up to you to decide. I just wish: Bonne nuit.

What to see in the area

Food. What to try

Located on the border of two French provinces - Normandy and - Mont Saint-Michel, the cuisine offered here combines the best from both sides. Here you can meet traditional Breton crepes (Crepes), made on the basis of buckwheat flour, and the more familiar sweet ones pancakes, but with a complex filling of salted caramel or delicious Normandy cream, apple jam and cinnamon. They must be served with cider ( Cider).

I highly recommend that real meat eaters order meat " lamb from the salt fields" (Agneau de pré-salé). This is truly a local specialty that you can try either in Mont Saint-Michel or in Picardy in an area called Baie de Somme.

In addition to the above, it is definitely worth trying seafood, especially mussels(moules de bouchot de la baie de Mont Saint Michel), which are grown in close proximity to the walls of the abbey. It is noteworthy that they have French certification L'appellation d'origin protégée (AOP) like cheeses or wines. The mussel season begins in July and ends at the end of January.

What tourists come to Mont Saint-Michel for in terms of gastronomy is, of course, « Mother Poulard omelette". It was invented in the 19th century by a young woman named Annette, who did not share the family business with her relatives and opened an inn for tired pilgrims. Things were going poorly for her, and the only food in the kitchen was often eggs. According to legend, one of the guests told her a recipe for making an omelet right in the fireplace.

The secret of this dish is that the whites are whipped separately from the yolks into a fluffy white foam. The yolks are cooked first and then the whites are poured onto them. The omelet turns out unusually fluffy and folded, like a thick book.

Although legends are made about the famous “Mother Poulard omelette”, people go to Mont Saint-Michel not for gastronomic pleasures, but rather for impressions. The local cuisine is simple and tasty, but you probably shouldn’t expect amazing culinary delights from it. Local cafes and restaurants are accustomed to serving a large flow of visitors. Mont Saint-Michel is visited by 7 million tourists every year! Therefore, the price range, as in all tourist places, is significant. But let's talk about everything in more detail.

Budget

Among the budget restaurants, I’ll probably single out pancake shops. The simplest pancakes with butter, cheese or egg or sugar will cost you 2–3 EUR, spring rolls - 7–8 EUR.

• La Sirene- traditional Breton pancake house, very tasty for a reasonable price! Address: Grande rue, 50170 Mont-Saint-Michel, France. Tel: +33 2 33 60 08 6

• Creperie La Cloche. Address: rue Principale, 50170 Mont-Saint-Michel, France. Tel: +33 2 33 60 15 65

Mid-level

• Le Relais du Roy-restaurant at the hotel, very tasty, traditional French cuisine, seafood. Address: 8 Route du, 50170 Le Mont-Saint-Michel. Tel: 02 33 60 14 25.

• La Ferme Saint Michel Restaurant. Address: Route de Pontorson | La Caserne, 50170 Mont-Saint-Michel, France. Tel: +33 2 33 58 46 79.

• restaurant at the Hotel du Guesclin. Address: Grande rue, 50170 Mont-Saint-Michel, France. Tel: +33 2 33 60 14 10.
• Le Saint Michel. Address: rue Principale, 50170 Mont-Saint-Michel, official site of Mont-Saint-Michel.

  Safety. What to watch out for

  In terms of the human factor, I personally would call Mont Saint-Michel one of the safest places in France. Firstly, entry to the abbey is limited, and the ticket is quite expensive, and secondly, 72 people live in the city itself, where everything is visible.

  Perhaps the only things to be afraid of are holes in your pockets and tourists like us. We all know that sometimes you can meet dishonest people. However, please note that when parking, you must make sure that you lock your car and remove all expensive items under the car seats or take them with you. You will be able to leave valuables in a storage room at the entrance to the abbey. This service is free, but you need to have a 1 EUR coin with you to close the lock of the cell.

  

  For those who decide to walk along the sandy shores around Mont Saint-Michel on their own during low tides, I recommend paying close attention to the special schedule, which you can find on the official website of the abbey.

  

  This year the water level at high tide is very high and reaches 12.8 m in height, so the newly built road may be under water. In order to observe the high tide phenomenon, you must be in the bay 2 hours before the time indicated on the website. It's extremely dangerous to be here! The maximum tide speed can exceed 6 km/h! I kindly ask you to use the services of a certified guide for such walks.

  Things to do

  It is customary to walk in Mont Saint-Michel with your eyes wide open, enjoying the most picturesque views, breathing in the intriguing history of the “miracle of the West” along with the sea air.

  Here you can watch the high tidal waves rush against the rock of Saint-Michel, or walk on the wet sand around the incredible beauty of the abbey at low tide.

  

  This promenade takes about 30 minutes (distance about 1 km). It is better not to go far from the foot of the mountain, since, in addition to the returning water, you can end up in quicksand. The gray sand seems completely lifeless, but if you look closely, you can easily spot all kinds of mollusks flapping their shells and blowing bubbles.

  

  You can become a participant in an incredible light show taking place within the walls of an ancient abbey, or you can be a gourmet who will taste the most magnificent omelet in the world. The choice is yours!

  Shopping and shops

  The main and only street of the city ( Grande Rue) dotted with densely packed shops, cafes, restaurants and hotels. It is very short, you can pass it in a couple of minutes. However, if you stop out of idle curiosity and choose souvenirs, you can spend several hours there.

  

  Here, tightly huddled together, are half-timbered houses from the 15th–16th centuries, restaurants and cafes, and souvenir shops. On this same street there are entrances to all noteworthy churches and museums. In the souvenir shops you can buy the famous “Mother Poulard cookies”, knight’s armor and watercolors depicting the abbey.

  In fact, all shopping is limited to souvenir shops, but it will definitely not leave you indifferent!

  Souvenirs. What to bring as a gift

  Among the possible souvenirs, I would probably highlight

  • biscuits or salted caramelMother Pulyar(La Mere Poulard) in a beautiful tin box. They are very tasty and very high in calories, but very tasty!

  

  • traditional alcoholic drinks from Normandy: cider (Cidre) or its equivalent, made from a pear rather than an apple - Poiret(Poire) Calvados (Calvados) And Pomo de Normandie (Le pommeau de Normandie).

  

  • copper utensils. Here it is sold in all kinds of sizes - from saucepans to saucepans. You can also find various frying pans, kettles and other utensils. Everything is very beautiful, and most importantly - practical!
  • collectible coins Monnaie de Paris, which in principle can also be purchased at any post office in France. Now on sale is a series with the little Prince Exupery. I have been dreaming about such a coin for a long time!
  • replica of a medieval weapon, but I’m not sure that it can be safely carried in luggage in our troubled times.

  How to get around the city

  Unfortunately, you can only get around the city on foot. It is worth noting that the Abbey of Mont Saint-Michel is not suitable for visitors with limited mobility, as you will have to overcome a 200-meter steep path to the top of the mountain and a staircase of 350 steps.

  

  The same applies to baby strollers. If you are traveling alone with a baby, it is best to take a sling or baby carrier with you.

  There is paid parking near the mountain (2.5 km), which is open daily. The cost of parking for a passenger car is approximately 12 EUR. If you lose your parking ticket, you will be asked to reimburse the full cost of daily parking and a small tax - a total of 23 EUR.

  The toll road fare from Paris will cost you 24 EUR, from Rouen - 8.90 EUR. You can pay for travel by credit card or cash. Don't be surprised, some sections of motorways may be free.

  Mont Saint-Michel: holidays with children

  In my personal opinion, a trip to Mont Saint-Michel with a toddler can be a disappointment. Children who have difficulty on their feet and try to run on slippery pavement stones are dangerous. On the other hand, a visit with a baby who obediently sits in a carrier and looks around, or with a curious teenager will really bring you pleasure. If you have an angel child, come to Mont Saint-Michel together without hesitation. Otherwise, take a first aid kit with you.

  In the summer in July and August there is a children's playground next to the church.