Cutting and processing glass First of all, you need to go through the preliminary preparation stage, make sketches and templates. Why do you need the appropriate tools for drawing, coloring and cutting: pencils, eraser, square ruler, standard scissors with

An adult boar usually has 44 teeth (12 incisors, 4 canines, 16 anterior and 12 posterior). The incisors, canines, second, third and fourth anterior molars are diphyodont, i.e. they have two generations. All posterior teeth have no deciduous predecessors. The anterior radical P11s do not change and remain milky throughout their lives, and often do not appear at all in the lower jaw.

A brief description of age-related changes in individual groups of teeth can be summarized as follows.

Incisors. They are located in the extreme anterior part of the skull. On the lower jaw they are directed straight forward, and on the upper jaw they grow with their apices perpendicularly downward. Newborns have third incisors on both jaws. At the age of 12-15 days, the first pair of teeth erupts through the gums, first in the lower and then in the upper jaw, but they grow relatively slowly: at 2 months of age they reach 0.5 cm in length. 3-month-old individuals already have all the primary incisors. The replacement of baby teeth with definitive ones occurs in the same sequence as the appearance of milk teeth: I3 erupt and are replaced at 9-10 months, I1 at 15-16, and I2 at the end of the 2nd - beginning of the 3rd year of life. Homologous teeth in the upper jaw usually erupt only when the lower teeth have reached approximately 2/3 of their definitive length.

Fangs. Newborns have both pairs of primary canines, which are very similar in appearance to the third incisors. Primary canines grow slowly and remain only until 10-11 months of age. The most characteristic feature of the definitive canines of males is their constant and fairly rapid growth almost throughout life, while in females the canines grow only until 4-5 years of age and very slowly. The lower canines of adult males are directed upwards and to the sides, slightly curving backwards. The upper ones, starting from the 2nd year of life, grow downwards and to the sides, and by the end of the 3rd year their tops begin to bend upward and the more, the older the boar is. Both pairs of canines gradually increase in length and diameter with age, reaching their maximum size in older males. Our observations and studies of male canines show that they can, to some extent, be used to determine age. Figure 2 shows how the shape, size and wear of canines in males changes depending on age. However, canines themselves cannot serve as a reliable indicator for determining the age of animals, since within each age group there is a wide range of variability in their sizes. Note that the length of the canine was measured along the large bend from the border of the alveolus to the top of the tooth, and the width was measured at the widest point at the level of the bony alveolus. The lower canines of males are triangular, the upper ones are rounded; in females, the lower ones are triangular-rounded, and the upper ones are flat. In males, the length of the lower canine along the outer large curve from the root to the apex reaches 230, and the upper - 140 mm; in females - 100 and 55 mm, respectively.

Foreroot. In the wild boar, all the anterior and posterior teeth (both primary and definitive) are placed close to each other, forming a compact row. Only in the lower jaw the first pair is located separately between the canines and second premolars.

On the 5-8th day after birth, the fourth pair of teeth noticeably protrudes from the alveoli on the lower jaw, and the third pair of teeth on the upper jaw: P4 erupts and develops after P3. By 1.5 months of age, piglets have the first and third pairs of incisors, canines, as well as third and fourth anterior teeth; the apices of the second incisors and second anterior molars cut through the bony alveolus. Subsequently, the growth and development of milk teeth proceeds quickly and in a short time, which can be explained by the gradual transition of piglets from feeding on mother’s milk to obtaining food independently. Young animals 3-4 months old already have well-developed anterior teeth, with the exception of the first pair, which is usually formed after the rest.

The replacement of primary anterior teeth with definitive ones begins at 15-16 months, with the fourth pair on the lower jaw erupting first; it grows quickly, reaching full development by 18-20 months, while the third pair by this time grows only to 2/3 of its size, and the second is just emerging. In general, all definitive anterior molar teeth of the lower jaw are finally formed by 22-24 months of age. However, if milk teeth are largely adapted to crushing and grinding food, then all permanent premolars are mostly only crushing or cutting teeth. This is due to the fact that the function of grinding food in 2-3-year-old wild boars is carried out by the developing posterior teeth.

Posterior roots. The first pair of posterior teeth erupts at 4 months of age, and by 6 months they are already fully developed, but traces of wear on the tops of the cusps appear only by 10 months. The development of the second is generally completed by 18-20 months, and the third by the end of the 3rd year of the boar’s life. Molars grow strictly alternately: postalveolar differentiation of each tooth occurs only when the previous one is finally formed. The degree of wear on the cusps and crown surfaces of the teeth also increases consistently. This sequence is one of the best diagnostic signs for establishing a scale of age-related changes in teeth.

High quality, for a reasonable price.
Of all the game that is usually hunted, the cohort of prestigious ones has long included boar, also called wild pig. In ancient times he had a different name - boar. This is a solid, far from stupid and savvy animal. He never backs down and is ready to defend his life to the end, which often threatens the hunter with serious injuries. The brilliant writer A.A. Cherkasov, who described hunting with amazing talent, in his book “Notes of a Hunter of Eastern Siberia” describes the behavior of a wild boar during a hunt: “...look at cleaver, when the dogs catch up with him, stop him, hunters will fly up and surround him from all sides, and he, seeing trouble, will begin to defend himself. All the fur on it stands on end, the eyes burn with courage and throw terrible sparks, white foam pours out of its mouth in clouds, and the cleaver either stands motionless, waiting for an attack, puffs and furiously sharpens its huge white fangs, then rushes like an arrow at the enemies and bold, swift , with an elastic swoop knocks down brave fighters, crosses them in two like a gauntlet, throws them up with his snout, slashes with fangs like a knife, makes terrible mortal wounds, releases their intestines... One turn of his snout is enough to kill a careless hunter who decides to come too close to him and somehow make a mistake..."
The danger of hunting a boar is also reflected in a treasure trove of folk wisdom - in sayings, for example, one of them says: “If you are going to hunt a bear, take a straw, wild boar If you go, carry the coffin."
But, still knowing how dangerous this animal can be, you should not fall into a stupor from fear of such game. If you meet such a serious opponent, you need to be very careful and not lose your composure. And of course, you don’t need to move around hecticly, twitch, and you shouldn’t let fear guide your actions.

All appearance wild pig indicates that this animal is adapted for living in dense tangles of forest thickets and reed thickets. The head is large, wedge-shaped (in proportion, it is almost one third of the entire length), a powerful neck and a large body, as if compressed on the sides, enable the animal, when a threat arises, to escape through the forest wilds and rubble, breaking through any thickets with amazing speed .
Boar legs are hardy, short limbs covered with coarse hair. The tail is not too long, reaching approximately to the heel joint, and has a tassel at its end. When a wild boar runs away from danger, its speed can be about 40 km/h, and it will jump four meters in length and one and a half meters in height. And the wild boar is capable of maintaining such a pace, without stopping for a smoke break, at distances of 10 or even 15 km. This animal can quickly and without difficulty swim across water obstacles, even if the river has a high current speed, crosses swamps, and is able to overcome steep slopes.

The wild pig is a natural all-terrain vehicle, only impassable snow reduces its ability to maneuver. Only at the first inattentive glance can a boar be called a heavy and clumsy animal. In reality, it is a fast and playful animal. The boar can make a lightning-fast throw towards or at the enemy at any time. The size of an adult pig is quite significant. The height at the withers can be about 120 cm, and the length of the animal is often more than two meters. Such an animal weighs about three centners, or even more. With all this, it is also a well-armed enemy - the boar has well-developed tusks. They are clearly visible when looking at a wild boar - they do not fit in the oral cavity, and they turn menacingly white on the outside. On the upper jaw, the fangs are blunt and not too long, and at the exit from the gums they bend upward. On the lower jaw of a wild boar they are more serious - these are sharp triangular fangs, and they grow throughout their life and when the boar is already seven years old, their size is already ten centimeters. It must be said that the lower tusks of a boar are always sharply sharpened, they never become dull, the fact is that the upper tusks are closely adjacent to them and act as a grindstone. The lower fangs are a lifesaver for a wild boar - it is a digging stick, an “axe”, and a “knife”, and much more. It is the boar's impressive lower tusks that give another name to adult males - they are often called cleavers.

Female wild pigs also have fangs, although they certainly cannot boast the same size, they do not even protrude. Actually, this makes female wild boars less dangerous than adult loppers.
Boars have a well-developed coat. In winter, each bristle splits at the end, and itself becomes very strong and elongates. These bristles on the back of the animal tangle and create an original mane. In addition, during cold times a dense undercoat grows. The fur of a boar, its part consisting of bristles, is most often dark brown in color, lightened at the ends, maybe with a grayish tint, or even completely white. The undercoat is also brown with an admixture of chestnut color. Wild boars do not differ in the variety of skin colors; they can be brown or brown, almost always in darker shades, the limbs are always darker than the body, they can be completely black. In the summer, the stubble thins out and shortens. The color changes and becomes lighter and moves to the “gray area”; gray or even ashy colors begin to predominate in the color of the skin.
By nature, wild boars are cautious and wary animals, so they usually try to leave when a person approaches. However, when a boar is wounded or very angry from long-term persecution, it can turn all its forces against its pursuer, not caring about the sense of self-preservation. Boars have a remarkably pronounced sense of hearing and smell. But vision is much weaker. But this does not mean that a boar’s vision can be ignored when hunting it. Already from a distance of a hundred or one and a half meters, he can detect even small movements of the hunter and immediately goes in the other direction.

It is very important to properly skin a dead animal. The appearance of the trophy and its assessment depend on this. When skinning, the killed animal is laid on its back and, having pulled back the skin on the belly (near the anus), it is cut with a sharp knife. An incision is made along the midline of the abdomen from the anus to the angle of the lower jaw (to the chin), as well as along the underside of the tail to its end. The knife is inserted under the skin with the tip upward; in this position there is less risk of cutting through the muscular wall of the abdomen. On the front legs, skin incisions are made from the soles along the inner sides to the chest, and on the hind legs - from the soles on the inner sides to the anus, going around it with an incision in front as close as possible (Fig. 66).

Rice. 66. Cuts for skinning

Then the skin is separated from the hind legs to the claws. After this, the terminal phalanges of the fingers are cut so that only the claws remain with the skin (Fig. 67). To make it easier to photograph the skins of small animals (cats, lynx, wolves, etc.), they are hung by their hind legs. Skinning is carried out from the forelimbs in the same way as from the hind limbs.

Rice. 67. Processing the paws of predators

You must remove the skin from the head very carefully so as not to cut through the skin around the ears and eyes. Having reached the ears and exposing their bases, they cut off the ear cartilage near the skull and leave them with the skin. In the eye area, the skin is cut as close as possible to the bones of the skull and the eyeball, so as not to damage the eyelids. When skinning, the animal's mouth is opened and cuts are made along the edge of the mouth from the inside near the teeth, leaving the lips attached to the skin (Fig. 68). After the skin is separated from the carcass, the ear cartilage is removed so that the ear does not lose its shape as it dries. Separating ear skin from cartilage is a difficult operation. The cartilage fuses especially tightly with the skin on the inside of the ear. Great care is needed here to avoid cutting or tearing the skin.

Rice. 68. Cuts along the edge of the mouth

To protect against spoilage, the removed skin is cleaned of meat and fat and covered with a thick layer of salt. For the skin of a lynx and wolf they spend 2–2.5 kg, for the skin of a bear - 5–6 kg. Having rubbed well with salt, the skin is left unfolded for several hours, and then rolled up with the flesh inward, hair outward, tied with rope and stored for 2–3 days. Then the salt is shaken off and the skin is hung in the shade to dry for 2–3 hours.

For long-term storage, after drying, the skin is once again cleaned of any remaining meat and fat, salted a second time and dried. If diaper rash appears on the skin, wipe it with acetic acid.

Only tanned skins are presented at hunting trophy exhibitions. There are many methods of dressing, but we will not recommend them here, since dressing skins at home requires not only knowledge, but also a lot of practical skill.

If the skin of a bear, wolf, lynx or other predatory animals has a high score, the local society of hunters and fishermen can provide practical assistance in organizing its processing at the relevant factories. In exceptional cases, the board of the Russian Hunting and Fishing Union can help.

If, after dressing and complete drying, there are unevenness on the skin or it is dry, then use sandpaper to clean off all the unevenness, and then place the skin for a short time in wet sawdust. Having spread it on the boards with the fur down, pulling it slightly in width and length, straighten the paws, head and nail it along the edges with nails; then they are dried and the edges, perforated with cloves, are carefully trimmed (carefully at an angle, without touching the fur). The fur is combed with a brush. To dry, bear skins can be stretched on a frame made of poles or thick slats.

The finished skin is hemmed with cloth (preferably green) completely and only along the edges of the outline. The edges of the cloth are cut with teeth or other patterns. Then, in accordance with the contour, a linen or other lining is cut out and hemmed to the cloth on the back side of the skin. Between the skin and the lining, it is good to lay batting in the shape of the skin. Metal rings are sewn to the head, tail, and paws at a distance of 30–50 cm from each other to attach the carpet to the wall. You can make a carpet from the skin with a head and an open mouth. However, this work requires a lot of knowledge and experience. If desired, the production of such a carpet can be ordered from a taxidermy workshop.

The next main task of the owner of the trophy is to preserve it so that neither moths nor skin beetles damage the skin. To do this, you need to keep an eye on the skin, shake it off periodically, and dry it in the sun.

The quality of trophies, preservation, and good display appearance largely depend on their processing and presentation. Great importance is attached to the design of the trophy at national and international exhibitions and competitions. Before starting to directly process the hunting trophy, the hunter must take care of it at the hunting site, since very often damage to trophies occurs during their transportation. If the animal carcass cannot be delivered with the trophy without damaging it, then it is best to separate the trophy from the carcass. Usually the skull is separated from the neck after the skin has been removed. In this case, special attention is paid to maintaining the integrity of the occipital parts of the skull. The head of an elk, deer, or roe deer is cut off along a line coinciding with the angle of the jaw bone. To do this, the head is pulled back and the neck muscles around the head are cut at the level of the movable joint of the skull and the first cervical vertebra, then the joint membrane is cut with the end of a knife and the head is separated from the cervical vertebra with a strong jerk. When transporting a boar, the head does not need to be separated from the carcass, but to prevent damage to the tusks, the jaws are tightly tied with a piece of hay placed between them, and the tusks are wrapped in paper.

Proper processing and design make it possible to identify the main advantages of trophies and draw the viewer’s attention to them. Processing and design are not very difficult and are accessible to everyone, but they require great care and attention. The processing and decoration of trophies consists of the following operations: cleaning the skull, boiling, filing, degreasing and bleaching, selecting a stand and mounting.

To process hunting trophies, you must have two sharp knives - one with a long blade, the other with a short one; tweezers, scalpel and scraper for removing the brain. The scraper is made of steel in the form of a spoon, 2x2.5 cm in size and 15–20 cm long; a wooden handle is attached to the end of the scraper. The edges of the scraper must be sharpened.

First, you should clear the skull of meat, which is most convenient to do at the site of cutting the carcass. To do this, use a sharp knife to cut off the largest muscles and remove the eyes and tongue. After liberal salting, the skull can be safely transported for several days, even in hot weather. To repel blow flies, it is a good idea to sprinkle the skull with mothballs. When transporting, it is advisable to place the horns along with the head on hay or straw.

The brain is removed with a scraper, mixing the brain until soft, through the foramen magnum, without expanding it. You can also use a wooden spatula or a wire hook or a stick with cotton wool wound at the end instead of a scraper. Then the skull is washed under a strong stream of water.

There are several methods for final cleaning of the skull, but the simplest and fastest is boiling the skull in water. The only drawback is that bones cleaned in this way, if you do not strictly adhere to the rules, sometimes are not snow-white, but retain a yellowish tint. To prevent the skull from darkening during cooking and to bleach it more easily in the future, it is first placed in running water for 10–20 hours. If the water is not running, it is changed several times. To better bleed the skull, add a 1% solution of table salt to the water.

Boil the skull in a large saucepan or cauldron so that the water constantly covers it completely, but does not reach the horns. To do this, the trophy is tied to two wooden blocks and with the help of this device the depth of immersion is adjusted. It is advisable to wrap the lower third of the horns (rosettes and lower processes) with a rag so that fat and water do not get on the horns.

The skull is never placed in hot water, but rather heated along with the water. After boiling, the fatty foam is constantly removed, adding evaporated water, since the bone protruding from the water turns brown and then does not bleach. It is very good after half an hour of cooking to change the water and start boiling in clean water. When cooking, it is not recommended to add any chemicals (soda, ammonia, washing powder, alkali, etc.).

The duration of boiling the skull is 1.5–3.5 hours, depending on the size, type and age of the animal. Particular care should be taken when processing the skulls of small ungulates, whose bones do not fuse. When boiling such skulls, check every few minutes to see how the meat separates from the bones. When it separates easily, boiling is stopped so as not to destroy the bonds connecting some bones. When the muscles and tendons are cooked to sufficient softness, the skull is immersed in clean water to cool and its cleaning begins. The meat, softened by boiling, is separated with tweezers, and the ligaments fused to the skull are scraped off with a scalpel or knife. Then the skull is cleaned of the remains of the brain and films.

Before boiling the skulls of bovid animals (mountain sheep, goats, antelopes, etc.), it is necessary to remove the horns. To do this, they are immersed in water for one or two days so that it covers the entire horn to the base. The skull can remain above the water. Water soaks (macerates) the connective tissue formations connecting the horns to the bone base of the frontal bones, and they are easily removed from the bone bases. The removed horns must be washed well and dried in the shade, and the skulls must be boiled and cleaned in the usual way. After filing, degreasing and bleaching the skulls, the antlers are placed on bone rods.

After thoroughly cleaning the skull from meat, ligaments and brain, it is important to skillfully file.

It is best to preserve entire skulls of deer, goats, and sheep. Such a trophy is more valuable, since the age of the animal can always be determined by the wear of the teeth. It is recommended to attach the lower jaw to the trophy with a cord or thin wire.

Sometimes only a small shapeless piece of the frontal bones is left with the horns, and the horns seem to lose their logical connection with the skull. Such horns look on their own, and not as a combat or tournament weapon for a male stag. To avoid this, the nasal, frontal and part of the parietal bones are left with the horns. If the horns are large and massive, then only the base of the skull with teeth is removed. In this case, not only the nasal bones, but also the premaxillary bones and the upper parts of the eye sockets are preserved.

The base of the skull is filed with a surgical or carpenter's saw with fine teeth, outlining the filing line in advance. To do this, the skull is immersed in water so that only those parts that need to be preserved with the horns remain above the water. Having secured it in this position, mark the water level with a pencil, then remove the skull from the water and cut along the line. When cutting, the skull must be wet, otherwise dry bones will crumble easily.

No matter how the skull is cleaned, fat remains in the bones, which gives them a yellow color, so the bones must be degreased. The simplest way is to soak the skull for 24 hours in pure gasoline, then immerse it in water and quickly boil it. In this case, fire safety measures are observed especially carefully.

For bleaching, you can use a 30% solution of hydrogen peroxide (H 2 O 2). The skull is immersed in the solution, making sure that it does not get on the horns, keeping it for 15 minutes (no more). A hydrogen peroxide solution of this concentration must be used extremely carefully so as not to damage the skin of your hands or burn your clothes. The bleached skull is washed with water and dried.

The third method of quick whitening is boiling the skull for 5–15 minutes (depending on the size of the skull) in a 25% solution of ammonia (250 cm 3 per 1 liter of water). Make sure that the horns do not touch the water. At the end of boiling, a 33% solution of hydrogen peroxide is applied several times to the hot bones with a brush and, without washing it off, the skull is dried. It is better to work with hydrogen peroxide while wearing rubber gloves.

The fourth method is to cover the washed skull with cotton wool or gauze soaked in a 7–10% solution of hydrogen peroxide with the addition of 5 ml of a 25% ammonia solution per 1 liter of water. Bleaching is carried out for 4–5 hours in a dark place.

Fifth method - the skull is soaked for 1–2 hours in water, then boiled for several minutes, after which it is removed from the water, slightly dried and a 33% solution of hydrogen peroxide is applied to it, mixed until sour cream thick with fine chalk or magnesium powder, placed place it in a dark, damp place for 10–24 hours. Then the skull is washed with water and a brush, and dried in the sun. Make sure that this solution does not get on the horns. After bleaching, light cosmetics of the horns and skull are allowed; light horns can be slightly tinted with a weak solution of potassium permanganate or an infusion of walnut shells; for this, the shells are dipped in hot water and left to infuse for several hours.

You need to tint the horns very carefully, since experts can give a discount for light-colored horns during the evaluation, and remove them from the competition for ineptly tinted ones.

Coating the horns with varnish or other dyes is not permitted, otherwise they will not be allowed to participate in competitions and exhibitions.

Before applying cosmetics, the skull should be tied in a plastic bag. The tips of the deer's antlers can be polished white with fine sandpaper. To add shine, dry horns are brushed with paraffin or stearin dissolved in gasoline. After the solution has dried, the horns are polished to a shine with a shoe brush.

In order to eliminate any roughness on the skull, it is polished with fine sandpaper and wiped with chalk powder dissolved in denatured alcohol. Talc is applied to a cleanly wiped bone and covered with a thin layer of a liquid solution of colorless synthetic varnish, or the bones are wiped with cotton wool soaked in polish. This type of varnishing is usually carried out on the skulls of predatory animals.

To extract the tusks of a boar, a part of the animal’s muzzle is sawed off between the eyes and the tusks, as shown in Figure 69. This piece of the muzzle must be at least three and a half times longer than the visible part of the lower tusks. The sawn-off part is placed in a cauldron with cold water so that it is completely hidden under water. The water is brought to a boil and simmered over low heat for 2–3 hours. After cooking, the jaws with fangs are removed from the cauldron and, without allowing them to cool, the fangs are removed. To avoid getting burns, use mittens or rags. The upper fangs are usually removed easily, but to remove the lower ones, they need to be pulled forward 3–5 cm, and then carefully open the jaw bones from the back so that the fangs come out freely. Then the fangs are placed in a cauldron of hot, oily water until it cools. They should not be left without water and should not be washed with cold water. The fang, cooling in oily water, becomes saturated with fat and acquires a protective layer. After cooling, the nerves are removed from the fangs and the inner surface is wiped with cotton wool, dried in a damp and warm place to avoid cracking.

Rice. 69. Extracting boar tusks

After drying, the fangs are degreased with gasoline. It is recommended to fill the inside of the fangs with BF glue (any) and, after holding it inside for 5–10 s, pour it out, repeating this two or three times at intervals of 30 minutes. Before doing this, the glue is heated in a bowl with warm water so that it pours out more easily. Instead of BF glue, the inside of the fangs can be filled with epoxy resin of the following composition: 80 parts filler and 20 hardener. Instead of glue, the cavities of the fangs can be filled with tweezers with cotton wool soaked in epoxy resin; after 12 hours the glue hardens, giving them greater strength.

To prevent fangs from deteriorating due to changes in humidity, they can be coated with a thin layer of colorless synthetic varnish. Fangs cannot be bleached.

ALEX55555 05-03-2010 20:11

fellow hunters, the jaw of a cleaver is lying there from last year, teach me how to boil the fangs...

Petr...sh 05-03-2010 20:55

I’m not an expert on wild boars at all, more so on tusks.
I know quite well about bear tusks. I’ll tell you that when I took the deer trophy from the master, I saw boar tusks being restored. To the question, what are they cracking? Yes. And very strongly. Everything seems to be correct, everything is done according to science and everything is expensive and the best, but they crack. And they burst, and with a screw, and for everything.
And therefore. It's better to contact a specialist. Or simply fill it with epoxy and push it into place.

I repeat, I am new to this. And my opinion is stupid. (I do this myself, and cover the cracks with auto sealant)

SHULGA 07-03-2010 13:09

I do this: immerse it in water (with a large supply of water) and, over low heat, simmer for several hours. After this, after cooling naturally, I take out the fangs. There are moments when the fangs in the boiled jaw dangle freely, but cannot be removed even with force, then the jaw is carefully destroyed using improvised means (it is convenient to “pinch off” a piece with pliers). You need to be MAXIMUM careful with the edges of the fangs (those in the jaw) - they are very delicate and fragile.
Next, I treat the extracted fangs with a degreaser (you can use good gasoline for lighters) and dry them well NATURALLY. Ready.
Storage: I fill it STEP by STAGE with the oxide (maximum possible liquid consistency), let it harden thoroughly. I treat the outer side very thinly with ordinary superglue (it fills microcracks well and does not shine). I place it on a medallion - I attach it using thin ring straps made of genuine leather. Preservation is ETERNAL, if once every 3-5 years you thinly cover the outside with superglue again. Appearance - NATURAL.

ALEX55555 09-03-2010 10:19

Thank you friends... I boiled it, pulled it out, now according to the recommendations and I think they will go for a medallion...

Bylbash 20-04-2010 19:39

I cook for no more than 30 minutes so as not to become brittle.
They have been hanging in the apartment for 4 years now and have not cracked.
at the dacha everything is also excellent, but there is more humidity there

Sergey outfitter 24-04-2010 03:48

Why, rather than boil it down in 40 minutes so that you can pull it out?

Tracker 10-08-2010 20:27

GREAT TROPHIES! Where did you get it?

Bylbash 12-08-2010 18:09

Why, rather than boil it down in 40 minutes so that you can pull it out?

Believe me!
I put it in water and after 20 minutes I try to press it in and loosen it a little
Sometimes they even go like this
After about 20 minutes I try again and in 90% of cases everything is ok!

I gave Nemansky’s fangs for evaluation and said that the medal, although weak, was there
boiled it in 15-20 minutes

Sergey outfitter 16-08-2010 09:17

All of them, the largest ones, are found exactly in the Far Eastern taiga and mainly around Khabarovsk! Here no one feeds them, so they plow with their fangs to get the tops of the roots! And as you know, clicks grow from this!

Nemansky 16-08-2010 11:08

quote: Originally posted by Bylbash:

I stir it with rotational movements and pull it out.

quote: Originally posted by Sergey outfitter:

Here no one feeds them, so they plow with their fangs to get the tops of the roots! And as you know, clicks grow from this!

Nemansky 16-08-2010 11:10

quote: Originally posted by Sergey outfitter:

This one had 31 cm clicks!

Sergey outfitter 17-08-2010 08:10

Is it possible to see these fangs? Or at least look at the trophy sheet? Or a measurement protocol? As a last resort - a photo of the extracted ones against the background of the ruler?

Sergey outfitter 17-08-2010 08:12

quote: Originally posted by Sergey outfitter:

Is it possible to see these fangs? Or at least look at the trophy sheet? Or a measurement protocol? As a last resort - a photo of the extracted ones against the background of the ruler?

Nemansky 17-08-2010 12:56

Weidmanns Heil 19-08-2010 03:33

Fangs crack from changes in humidity and temperature changes in the room. Therefore, boiled ones and immediately taken out into the air burst especially quickly; it is better for them, as has already been said here, to cool in a saucepan, then wrap them in a rag, paper and in a plastic bag on a shelf. I tried to extract fangs without cooking, using the rotting method. Afterwards they stink a little, and are dirtier than boiled ones, but they crack less, although they still crack. Now I have adapted to protect them with cyanoacrylate glue, as fluid as possible, it is less noticeable than epoxy. Then walk with fine steel wool. Glue like this http://shintop.ru/novokusnetsk/catalog_shop.php?action=item&id=1271300527 or similar. This is cotton wool http://www.sibglazier.ru/catalog.html/prods/tehnologija-nakladnogo-vitrazha/instrumenty-i-aksessuary/regalead/metallicheskaja-vata-20720

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However

Sergey outfitter 23-09-2010 03:49

quote: Originally posted by Nemansky:

The photo does not show 31 cm. Ordinary ordinary fangs.

oos 22-02-2011 20:21

Probably off topic, but I couldn’t find a better place. They brought a boar’s head with these tusks (right 35 cm, left 38). The upper canines are underdeveloped. The reason is a hole in the palate (about 3 by 4 cm) right at the base of the upper canines They said the boar is regular, 120 kilograms.