Watch laying laminate wood floor. How to put laminate on a wooden floor with your own hands. Important features of a wooden base

Ideal geometry, interlocking, simple installation, no need for additional surface treatment - such advantages explain the popularity of laminate flooring, including for do-it-yourself installation. The main difficulty is the preparation of the foundation. Especially if it's wooden floors.

Diagnostics of the condition of the wooden floor

Characteristic signs of the main defects:

1. Cracks between boards. Even dried wood has some moisture and continues to dry out over time. The dimensions that change the most are perpendicular to the direction of the fibers (that is, the width of the board).
2. Cracks in floorboards. They can have two reasons - internal stress (usually occurs with a massive board) and the effect of fasteners.
3. Creak. Almost all wooden "domestic" floors begin to creak over time, even if they are laid correctly. The floorboard between the joists is a beam with two pinched ends, working in bending when exposed to it in the center. The floorboard will “spring”, and the strength of adhesion to the fasteners will weaken, and a creak will appear.
4. Rotting. It can be detected in places of peeling and swelling of the paintwork or determined by a dull sound when tapping the floorboards with a hammer.
5. Subsidence of floorboards. Two possible reasons are an incorrectly chosen log spacing for this board thickness or the destruction of the log.
6. A distinct feeling of dampness coming from the floor. The reason is the absence or poor-quality waterproofing of the floor on which the wooden floor is laid.

Foundation repair

Elimination of each defect has its own technology.

In principle, ordinary gaps between the base boards will not affect the quality of the laying of the laminate, since the laying direction of the base and the top coat must be mutually perpendicular.

Large gaps can be sealed with slats with a thickness equal to the size of the gap and a width equal to the thickness of the floorboard.

And if it is necessary to level the surface, then an additional draft floor will be created from plywood, chipboard or fiberboard.

Cracks in the floorboards, like cracks, can not be puttied. But if they pass through the attachment points, then this will be one of the reasons for the squeak. And this must be fought.

It is almost impossible to completely eliminate the creak of wooden floors. It can be weakened by strengthening the mount. The nails are “drowned” with a dominator, and one or two self-tapping screws are screwed next to it. The head of the screw should be recessed into the body of the board by a couple of millimeters.

A rotten board can be removed completely or partially (the repair fragment must rest on the logs).

The last two defects will require drastic measures. We'll have to dismantle the wooden floor. If the floorboards sag due to the large step of the lag, then the lags will have to be moved by adding new ones.

If the subsidence of the floor occurred only in one area, then the lag was originally rotten or it rotted due to poor-quality waterproofing.

In the first case, they change the defective log (and inspect the neighboring ones - some types of rot are very “contagious”).

In the second case, the floor is waterproofed again and the floors are re-layed with the replacement of damaged elements.

Surface leveling

This stage is necessary if the height difference of the base irregularities is more than 2 mm per 1 m. There are two ways to level the surface:

• grinding (by drowning the heads of the fasteners);
• using sheet wood materials - plywood, chipboard or fiberboard.

Plywood or chipboard is considered more moisture resistant, but only class E1 can be used for residential premises.

Fiberboard (or hardboard) is more environmentally friendly, but also more sensitive to high humidity.

A prerequisite is that under the wooden floor there is a good waterproofing layer that protects the wood and laminate from fumes from below. This is especially important for the ground floor, rooms above the arches, etc. Why not under the laminate? In the manufacturer's instructions, you can find a clause that says that the materials for protection against evaporation should be under an additional organic floor. Plywood, chipboard and fiberboard, as well as wooden floors, are this very "organic". If the vapor barrier is laid under the leveling sheets, then the conditions for normal use of the wooden floor will be violated, and it will begin to rot.

Attention! The substrate serves for sound insulation and compensation for small (up to 2 mm) irregularities. It does not replace the vapor barrier film.

Large sheets of plywood and chipboard are usually cut into several pieces, otherwise they will wobble and sag on bumps. For example, a standard rectangular plywood sheet 2.44x1.22 is cut into 2 or 8 squares, and a large square sheet (1.525x1.525) is cut into 4.

Then they make a preliminary layout of the sheets, with an offset of the rows and a gap between the walls (at least 10 mm). Additional fragments are cut out, numbered, and attached to the base with self-tapping screws. A gap of up to 5 mm is left between the sheets (to compensate for changes in geometry under the influence of humidity changes). The seams between the sheets must be sealed with an elastic putty.

Preparing for installation

Before purchasing a laminate, you need to calculate it. Knowing the area of ​​​​the room, the direction of laying in the room (length, width, diagonal), the dimensions of the laminate board and the installation features, it is easy to do it yourself. But the managers of the trading organization can do the same.

There are also simpler methods.

For example, for rooms that are standard in shape and laid along their length (or width), it is enough to provide a 5% margin (for trimming the planks along the length). When adjusting in width, it is necessary to increase the calculated value by the number of narrow strips.

When calculating, it is important to consider that the use of the trimmed part of the panel is possible if:

• length not shorter than 40 cm;
• the width is not more than 10 cm.

If the cut of the last panel of the first row is more than 40 cm, then the laying of the second row can be started from it.

Each next row must have a seam offset (along the short end) of at least 40 cm relative to the previous one. You can make a "rhythmically" repeating pattern with an offset of 1/2 or 1/3 of the panel.

The Lock lock allows you to pick up each next row one panel at a time, pushing them to each other through a special bracket or bar.

The Click lock does not require padding, but the second and subsequent strips must be pre-assembled to the short end. When assembled, the strip is completely closed to the previous row: they hold it on weight at an angle of 30 °, insert the spike into the groove until it clicks (click) and lower it.

After the last row is completed, the wedges are removed and the gap is closed with skirting boards.

Putting a laminate on a wooden floor will help you in my article, which describes all the features and methods in detail.

Laminate- Modern flooring. Distinguished by practicality and aesthetics, it has become especially in demand in recent years. Now the skills of laying laminated panels are owned not only by masters, but also by amateurs doing repairs on their own.

Laminate can be placed on any surface. However, many people have a question about how to properly put it on a wooden floor, what technology should be followed. On this occasion, you can find practical advice, photos and videos on the Internet. On them, the masters share their experience with a fashionable coating and the secrets of its use for construction purposes.

To put a laminate on a wooden floor, you should make sure the quality of the latter. For this, a study of the boards for safety is carried out. The most common defects are:

• deflection of boards under weight;
• gaps between individual parts;
• deformation of the floorboards, their curvature;
• damage from moisture, fungus or pests.

It is especially important to eliminate any differences in the height of the base, bulges and indentations. You can not put a laminate on. In the video, the masters show how to eliminate this defect using a grinder or planer.

Professional tool can

Video how to put laminate on a wooden floor

Floorboards can creak for two reasons:

• poor fixation of boards on rough flooring or logs;
• friction between individual elements.

In the first case, the products are attached to the crossbars with screws or nails. In the second, with minor cracks, graphite, talc are added and the resulting gaps are sealed with putty.

To find out the condition of a wooden floor, it is recommended to remove a layer of paint and expose the structure of the tree. Rotten and decayed floorboards are checked with an awl or tapped with a hammer. If such parts are found, they are carefully removed and replaced with boards of the same thickness and width, driving them into the resulting gap.

If the floor boards are in good condition, but gaps have formed between them, the wooden floor is hammered together. The distance that occurs between the flooring and the wall is clogged with a piece of board. Instead of hammering, thin bars are inserted into the slots and driven in with a mallet. Then they must pass along the floor with a grinder so that the uneven floor turns into a smooth surface.

For the purpose of prevention, the floorboards cleaned from paint are recommended to be impregnated with an antiseptic against fungus and mold and with some kind of bioprotective compound against wood insects.

Leveling a wooden floor

The biggest problem with laying laminate flooring is. Height differences between the boards should not exceed 2 mm per 1 sq.m. With insignificant indicators, use a grinder or planer. They pass over the entire surface, periodically checking the condition of the floor using a level or a wooden plank and spirit level

If the wooden floor is too uneven use plywood, OSB or chipboard. This method is ideal for creating a base base for laminate flooring. Recently, OSB has been actively replacing plywood from the construction industry. In terms of quality, these are similar materials, but OSB products are preferable, since

• easily processed;
• have good strength;
• do not exfoliate under mechanical influence;
• moisture resistant, do not warp from water and fumes;
• have elasticity;
• are cheaper than plywood;
• have winning dimensions.

Today, OSB boards are one of the best materials for under a laminate. The canvases are fully compatible with other wooden parts, rough flooring.

OSB is used as a substrate for laminate flooring. The choice of dimensions of this material depends on the thickness of the main coating. For a laminate of 7 mm, plates of 2 mm are laid, 8-9 mm - OSB of 3 mm. If you put the base under a laminate of thicker sheets, they may sag during further use. This will adversely affect the locking joints: they will deform and break.

Osb-plates are screwed with self-tapping screws or nailed with nails of suitable length to logs or draft boards. The distance between them is determined by the size of the canvas. Usually the step from one fastener to another is 20-25 cm. This procedure can be observed on a special video.

You can not put the plates under the laminate tightly pressing against each other. It is important to leave a technical gap of 5 mm. Subsequently, it is covered with epoxy putty or filled with mounting foam.

Watching a video on preparing the base for a laminate, you should pay attention to the waterproofing device. It must be laid under the OSB boards in order to avoid the accumulation of condensate, the formation of high humidity and damage to wooden products in the future.

So, with the help of plywood or OSB boards, you can turn even a very uneven wooden floor into an ideal surface for a laminate, the main thing is to put everything right.

Laminate Features

Laminated boards (lamellas) are multilayer products. They are based on a fiberboard or chipboard panel. It is he who provides the entire floor with strength and reliability in operation.

Aesthetics of the coating is given by a decorative layer consisting of paper impregnated with special resins made from artificial components. At the bottom of the laminate panel has a protective waterproof layer - melamine. It provides rigidity to products and saves them from deformation.

Laminated boards have different thickness, from 6 to 14 mm. When choosing a laminate in rooms with different functionality, you should be guided by the fact that thick panels are more resistant to abrasion and durable in use. They are placed in living rooms, hallways and rooms with high traffic. Such panels have excellent sound-absorbing properties. Thick boards are easier to lay than thin boards. Therefore, it is better for beginners to train on such products.

Laminated boards are interconnected with the help of special locks. They are of two types - Click and Lock. Click lock is more practical. It is difficult to break or damage. When the spike enters the groove, the latter does not expand. Laminate with such a lock is combined at an angle of 45 degrees, slightly swayed and gently, with little effort, press the panel to the floor.

In the Lock-lock, when the spike of one product enters the groove of another, it expands. If the procedure is not carried out carefully, you can damage the thin joint and ruin the laminate panel.

In order to correctly combine and put the laminate boards together and not leave gaps, the products are tapped along the entire length with a mallet. It is important not to damage the lock. Therefore, a wooden rail and a piece of an unusable panel are used.

The laminate will be more pliable and will become better connected if it is brought into the room where it will be laid in advance, about a day before installation.

How to lay laminate flooring

Laminate finish is a floating structure. It can contract and expand. Therefore, before laying, it is important to provide a gap of 7-10 mm between the wall and the floor. To make it the same, use strips of equal thickness. They are installed along the walls and slightly fixed. At the end of the work, they are carefully removed.

Substrate

Next, you should put a substrate on the wooden floor. It is sold in rolls and sheets, is made from synthetic or natural ingredients, acts as an excellent waterproofing layer for laminate flooring, and can fix uneven floors that have minor imperfections. When choosing a substrate, they are guided by the price and quality of products. Natural cork sheets are most preferred. However, they are expensive.

The substrate is laid along the wall at first in one row. Do not cover the entire wooden floor at once: it will be more difficult to work with the boards. Segments of the substrate sheets are glued with adhesive tape.

Laying boards

Lamellas can be placed in different ways:

• "on the run";
• diagonally;
• "herringbone";
• through 2 lanes.

For beginners in the construction business, it is better to choose a simple “runaway” method. It is as follows:

1. Lay the first row of laminate along the wall opposite the entrance, starting from the inner corner from the window.
2. In the second row, the first board will be a segment in half of the product. The other half will complete this row.
3. Next comes the alternation of solid boards and segments at the beginning of the row.
4. In the last row, it may turn out that the solid board is wider than necessary. In this case, it is cut along using a jigsaw. The cut should be adjacent to the wall, and the lock should be connected to the previous board. When cutting the panel, it is important to be careful not to split the laminate. It should be measured and cut as evenly as possible.

This method allows you to give the greatest strength to the wooden floor. Laminate panels do not diverge and hold tightly to each other. It is more economical and simpler than, for example, a herringbone. Both ways of laying laminate on a wooden floor can be seen in the video. But in order to lay the lamellas in the second way, you need to master a special technique for working with material and tools.

When laying laminate on a wooden plank floor, there is a danger that the joints of the boards and panels will coincide. And this is undesirable. In this case, it is worth choosing a diagonal way to install the laminate. The laying angle may be different. The advantage of this method of mounting lamellas is that it allows you to visually break up the space and visually enlarge it. This method is described in detail and captured on video.

Upon completion of the work, the planks are removed from the walls and the skirting boards are fixed. They complete the overall composition and mask the gap between the wall and the floor. They are purchased in the color of the coating. Plastic products with a notch, a cable channel are now popular. Mobile or stationary wires are laid in it.

Laminate flooring video

Laminate: laying on an old wooden base

The technology of laying laminated boards on the floors was mastered not only by professional builders, but also by amateurs who make repairs with their own hands. It is not difficult to carry out these works: modern flooring is easy to install and practical to use. However, questions often arise whether it is possible to lay a laminate on an old wooden base and how to do it correctly.

Work on laying "puff", wooden boards as a finish coating consists of two stages: preliminary and main. On the first one, the research and preparation of the base is carried out, on the second, the actual laying of the boards. In case the basis is old wood floor, conduct a more thorough check of all structural elements. This will allow you to avoid many troubles associated with the operation of the coating in the future.

Wooden base preparation

Can be a great base for laminate flooring . Both materials are of natural origin and perfectly harmonize with each other. This combination provides warmth and comfort of the coating. Therefore, there is nothing better than putting “puff” boards on old wood products.

At the stage of preliminary work, the plank base is carefully examined, the degree of safety of the material, the presence of defects and damages are checked. Depending on this, further work is performed.

Troubleshooting an old wood floor

If the floorboards are strongly dispersed, wide gaps are observed, they must be hammered together or fill the resulting gaps

• wooden dies, specially cut to the size of the hole formed;
• putty;
• bundles impregnated with glue;
• sealant;
• mounting foam.

After the materials have dried, the protruding fragments are cleaned.

If the old, wooden floor is relatively well preserved, but minor defects are noticeable, they are eliminated in an accessible way:

• small cracks and chips in the floor are puttied or filled with sealant;
• protruding nail heads are driven flush;
• wooden boards are sanded with a special machine or sandpaper.

In most cases, the old wooden floor is covered with paint. You don't need to take it off specifically. It is enough to remove the exfoliated fragments. After the grinder, it is recommended to prime the boards or soak them with an antiseptic for greater reliability.

Sometimes an old plank floor is so bad that it needs to be completely replaced. In this case, a full range of measures is taken to create a new foundation.

Leveling an old wood floor

In order for the laying of the laminate on the old wooden floor to go smoothly and the coating lay flat, the base should not have height differences. All wooden floorboards must lie on the same level. The protruding fragments are cut off with a planer and smoothed with sandpaper or a grinder.

To speed up the installation process of the flooring, the old wooden floor is leveled with sheets of plywood or DSP. They are put "in a run", fastened with screws or glued to a special compound. If necessary, two layers of leveling material such as plywood can be applied. This is a very reliable way to create the perfect base that is required for laying laminate flooring.

Substrate on the old floor

Before laying the laminate on the old floor, create a layer of hydro and sound insulation.

1. Polyethylene film does a good job of protecting against moisture. It is spread around the perimeter of the room. The strips are overlapped and fastened with adhesive tape so that they do not diverge. The edges should protrude onto the walls.
2. Then they “throw” any soundproofing material: old linoleum, turf, polyurethane or cork cloth. On the market, you can choose an affordable product that will protect the room from noise and extraneous sounds.

Such a multi-layer construction will be an excellent support for laminated boards and will protect the old wooden floor from rotting. Although you can do without it.

Main work: laying laminate on the old floor

Options

From an aesthetic point of view laminate- excellent flooring. The pattern of natural wood creates coziness and warmth of the living space. It is unobtrusive and pleasing to the eye, in perfect harmony with furniture and other interior items.

There are three options for laying panels:

• simple: boards are laid like ordinary floorboards strictly in one line;
• parquet(herringbone): parts are placed at an angle to each other;
• diagonal: laminated products lie at an angle of 45 degrees to the wall. This is the most original way of arranging panels. But it is the most expensive, since with such laying, the consumption of the laminate is halved. This should be taken into account when buying products in the store.

Do-it-yourself non-professionals should start laying the floor with a simple installation. Diagonal and parquet pattern requires a certain skill and tool skills. This is hard and long work.

Ways

At the stage of buying a laminate, it is important to decide on the method of laying it. There are two of them:

• adhesive;
• castle.

The first method involves the use of a special adhesive. It takes a lot of time to complete construction work. Then it takes a certain period for the product to dry. This increases the time of the beginning of the operation of the floor. However, this method is considered the highest quality, and the coating with it lasts longer.

Most often resort to the castle method. Each laminated board is equipped with a system of fasteners, which are combined during laying, snap into place and securely fix the products to each other. Laying laminate using this method significantly reduces the installation time, and the floor can be walked on immediately after the work is completed.

Laminate is laid on an old wooden floor with both methods. With the adhesive method of fastening, you can not use the substrate. The composition is evenly distributed and further serves as a natural shock absorber.

Instruments

Installing laminate flooring on an old hardwood floor requires a simple set of tools and fixtures. It includes:

• plastic or wooden plate;
• mallet (rubber mallet);
• measuring tools: tape measure, square;
• small wooden wedges to insert between the wall and planks;
• sharp knife for opening packages;
• jigsaw or hacksaw.

Laminate laying technology

1. Laminate start laying from the window from the left corner. The grooves of the boards should be directed towards the wall, the ridges outward.
2. Stepping back from the wall 10-15 mm, put a wooden plate, which will create a uniform gap between the wall surface and the coating. At the end of the work, it is taken out, the gap is sealed with sealant and closed with a plinth. This gap is necessary, since the laminate is a movable product, which will narrow and expand during operation, it needs “space”. Otherwise, the boards will break.
3. First, the first row is laid along the entire wall, fastening the laminated panels with a lock. The last board may be longer than necessary. It is cut with a jigsaw or hacksaw to the desired size.
4. The remaining trim can be used when laying the second row, starting from it. In this case, the vertical joints of the panels will be additionally fastened with the long side of the board.
5. Combining the comb and groove of the products, you should be extremely careful not to break the thin contour and not violate the integrity of the panels.
6. The boards of the second row are first fastened in width, and then attached to the first row along the entire length of the room. The entire strip is gently lifted at an angle of 35-40 degrees and lowered to a characteristic click.
7. In order for the boards to lie tightly and not to form a gap between them, a mallet is used. She knocks together details with light movements.
8. Further, laying the laminate on a wooden floor is carried out according to an established scheme.
9. In the last row, it may turn out that the width of the boards is greater than necessary. Then measure the length to the wall and transfer the parameters to the wrong side of the laminated part. Along the resulting line, the board is cut along, keeping the ridge, which will need to be aligned with the groove of the previous row. These actions are performed with all products intended for laying in the last coating line.

If all the measures for laying the laminate with your own hands are carried out in accordance with the requirements of the technology, then with proper operation, the coating will last for many years. A smooth, old, wooden floor as a base for the finishing canvas contributes to the good preservation of the "puff" products. On such a floor will be warm and comfortable.

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Do-it-yourself wooden floor under the laminate
Laying tiles on a wooden floor: technology and its features

Experts note that the best basis for laying laminate flooring is a concrete floor. However, it is not available in all homes. And in wooden houses it is generally impossible to find a concrete base (the only exception can be the first floor, when the concrete floor is poured onto the ground).

Owners of houses with wooden floors should not be disappointed, because laminate flooring can be laid on such a base without difficulty. Of course, the wooden flooring requires keeping some secrets in mind. Most of them relate to the diagnosis and preparation of the foundation.

First of all, you need to pay attention to the features of the tree. It has the ability to lose its performance properties over time. Basically, it loses its strength. Therefore, after decades, the boards begin to sag, creak and even break. Moisture and insects cause such consequences. Therefore, the wooden base does not have such stability as. But the fact that the shelf life of laminated boards is equal to or less (depending on the class and manufacturer) than the life of the tree, allows you to safely lay the laminate on a wooden floor, following the advice from special videos.

Diagnosis and preparation of the floor from wood

Given the above, the diagnosis of sex is a must, especially if it was created many years ago.

Condition of the old floor

The steps for evaluating any wooden floor on top of which laminate flooring will be installed are the same. They consist in checking the condition of boards, logs and beams. The first ones are enough to inspect to identify cracks, holes created by a wormhole, and it’s also worth getting up on top or knocking to determine the integrity of the board (if the sound is deaf, then it is rotten or has become a home for insects). To evaluate the lag, you need to perform additional steps. They are especially in demand in cases where the floor is old. In the case when the installation of the floor took place recently and correctly, it is enough to evaluate the floorboards.

Replacing old boards

To make an assessment of the frame, you need to remove several floorboards. Often, experts recommend removing everything. This should only be done when all the boards have gone bad. In most cases, you can shoot boards (bad ones are best) with a certain step. Its value can be 0.5-1 meter. It is desirable that the torn floorboard be wide. So you can get enough space to inspect those parts of the log that are under other boards. You can assess the condition of the frame using a mirror and a flashlight or by touch.

If the frame is in order, then rotten, unusable floorboards can be replaced. Boards with surface damage are torn off, turned over and nailed.

Loose material is strengthened. If the lag or beam is loosened, they also need to be fixed. When there is a concrete base under it, a hole is drilled in the timber and the base. Next, using an anchor, fix the loosened part. Cracks or holes in durable boards are filled with putty.

Tsiklevka

Next, proceed to. In case of problems with the frame, you need to disassemble the entire structure and change unusable parts according to the instructions from special videos.

It is important not only the strength of the wooden floor, but also evenness. On two square meters there should not be differences exceeding two millimeters. Failure to comply with this condition will lead to the deflection of the laminate and the destruction of its locks. Therefore, laying laminate on an uneven floor is unacceptable. The presence of differences is detected using a level.

There are several ways to eliminate the problem with drops.

1. Cyclevka.
2. Plank underlay.
3. Using plywood or chipboard.

It is recommended to cycle the floor when the difference in one square meter is less than 6 mm. Scraping is carried out using a grinder. Before this process, the head of each nail must be drowned to the depth of the largest drop. In this way, metal contact with the tool can be avoided. To perform the cutting of the protruding parts correctly, the cultivated area is divided into several sections. They also learn additional secrets with the help of special videos.

After leveling is completed, all dust is collected with a vacuum cleaner.

It is necessary to lay wooden planks under the boards if there are differences greater than 6 millimeters. Of course, for this the floorboard needs to be torn off. After leveling, you can carry out the scraping.

Fanner installation

When laying laminate on an uneven floor is not possible, plywood or chipboard is also used. With the help of them create a new smooth surface. Its installation involves the use of plywood with a thickness of more than 15 millimeters.

Before laying plywood, eliminate differences in the floor by placing wedges under the logs. After this, it is necessary to treat the flooring with a fungicide or drying oil. This is to prevent the development of fungi and mold.

When laying plywood, if necessary, planks of wood are used. They should be laid where there are differences. Sheets or squares of material must be laid so that the joints of the four parts do not form a cross. If necessary, the sheets are cut with a circular saw for wood. The last step in preparing the floor is to fix the plywood. The process is simple and is often demonstrated in videos.

Thanks to this preparation, floor irregularities are eliminated.

Substrate laying

The nuances of laying the substrate

The substrate must be laid because it is able to compensate for the minimum unevenness of the base, to exclude the movement of heat and sound. Waterproofing materials are not placed under it or on top of it, since moisture accumulates under them, which leads to rotting of the floor.

Under the laminate on a wooden floor put:

• polyethylene foam backing;
• natural cork substrate (the best option);
• a bituminous cloth substrate, which is interspersed with cork grains;
• high-density polyurethane foam backing.

Substrate laying

The thickness of any of these materials should match the thickness of the laminate. Manufacturers recommend using a 3mm substrate for 8mm dies.

The material must be laid end-to-end to form one continuous surface. The joint must be glued with tape.

After this step, you can install the laminate.

Laying laminate

Video

This video will show you in detail how

Photo sources.

At the moment, most repairs are not complete without laying laminate. Types of laminate in our time are not limited to the classic shades of wood. It can be glossy, matte, laminate with imitation of rough wood, stone, tiles and other species. Today we will talk about how to lay laminate on a wooden floor.

Peculiarities

To choose a coating, it is necessary to take into account in which room it will be used. Depending on some properties, laminated products are divided into classes:

• 21-23 grades the lowest, have low wear and moisture resistance. They can be used in areas with low traffic. For a home, a laminate of this level is quite enough, if you do not use it in the kitchen.
• 31st grade more durable and can be used in a small office.
• 32nd grade can last from 5 years in a store-type room and more than 10 years in an apartment.
• 33rd grade the strongest and most durable. It can be used in any halls, kitchens, restaurants.

Experts advise using a laminated coating in rooms with low humidity and a concrete base, but such a coating can also be used on a wooden floor.

In order to properly mount the laminate and avoid further problems during operation, you should know some features of the wooden floor:

1. Over time, it loses its original properties and is susceptible to moisture and other external factors.
2. It is deformed and prone to movement. All this can lead to swelling, creases of the laminated surface and other unpleasant consequences. Therefore, it is necessary to carefully analyze and prepare the surface.

Foundation Requirements

According to the standards, it is considered that the following conditions must be met for a laminated coating:

• a flat floor, the height difference of which should not exceed 2 mm at a distance of 2 sq. m;
• the floorboards must be securely fastened so that when walking they do not slip and do not make a sound;
• there should be no distance between the boards;
• Boards must not be damaged.

If defects are found, they must be corrected.

Material calculation

After evaluating the entire condition of the floor, it is necessary to determine how much and what materials will be needed. Let's start with the boards. If you decide to completely replace your existing hardwood floor, measure the width and length of the room. Next, divide the width of the room by the width of the new boards and select the desired length of materials.

Now we count how many logs and boards turned out. You will need 1 screw for each board. They are screwed every 50 cm to the log. Plus you need to take 20% for the reserve. For example, if there are 4 logs and 12 boards, then 48 screws + 20% will be required.

To calculate the amount of plywood, you need to know the dimensions of the room and the sheet itself. For example, the area of ​​1 sheet is 2.17 m2. For a room with an area of ​​​​8.7 m2, it turns out: 8.7 / 2.17 \u003d 4.09 pcs. 4 sheets may be enough, but it is better to take 5 pieces, taking into account trimming and possible marriage. The thickness of the sheets should not be less than 10 mm.

Plywood is fixed in increments of 15 cm. To calculate the number of screws for plywood, the length and width of the room are divided by 0.15 m. The two results are multiplied together. For example, there is a room measuring 2.80 m by 3.10 m. 2.80 / 0.15 = 19 pieces; 3.10 / 0.15 = 21 pieces Now 19 x 21 = 399 pcs. + 20% stock.

We calculate the required amount of laminate upon purchase, since there are various parameters of laminated boards. Do not forget to measure the size of the room before going to the store. For example, our room has an area of ​​8.7 m2. On average, one pack of coverage is 2.6 m2. So, you will need 4 packs (half of one pack will remain in stock).

With standard laying, the margin should be at least 5%, and with diagonal laying, at least 10%.

Please note that the batch and date of manufacture for all packages is the same to avoid differences in product shade.

Mounting technology

Floor preparation includes the following steps:

• First, inspect the floor and identify all its flaws.
• You should start with an analysis of the state of the lag and overlaps. If you have a high basement, then you can see it from there. If this is not possible, then it is necessary to disassemble the floor to the ground. Doubtful and damaged areas must be replaced with new ones. This will require thick bars.
• If everything is in order, determine if the boards are rotten and if they can withstand the load. To do this, remove the top layer of wood. If the color of the coating is uniform and close to the natural color of the wood, then the coating is in good condition.

You can use an awl and try to pierce questionable areas. If the awl is not included, then this instance is intact. Bad elements must be removed and new ones put in.

• If the boards are in fairly good condition, check them for sagging and squeaking. If any are found, it is necessary to fasten the old boards to the logs with self-tapping screws. Also, the cause of the creak may be friction between adjacent instances. This is eliminated with mounting foam or special solutions.
• Next, treat the tree with a scraper and cover with an antiseptic.
• If the floor was “moved” not so long ago, then these steps can be skipped.
• Further, it is necessary to level the floor if there are differences of more than 2 mm per 2 m2.

How to align?

This can be done in several ways.

Cycling

Laying plywood, OSB or GVL on the subfloor

When leveling with plywood, two options are possible: laying on a subfloor if the differences are less than 1 cm, and installation on additional logs if the differences are large.

You can lay plywood boards on the subfloor with small differences using glue and self-tapping screws. First you need to clean the surface and primed. Next, apply glue and lay the already prepared sheets. After the glue has completely dried, scroll the sheets with self-tapping screws at a distance of 15 cm.

It is possible to lay plywood on an uneven curved floor with differences of more than 1 cm using a crate, which will serve as a leveling. First, we also clean the surface, install beacons, along which the logs are fixed to the boardwalk. If voids form somewhere, it is necessary to put additional bars or plywood cuts.

Next, we cut the sheets into squares with a side of 60 cm, lay them on the crate so that the joints fall on the logs and fasten them with a slight offset so that a cruciform intersection of the seams does not form. We fasten the squares with self-tapping screws, having previously drilled holes so that the hats “drown” in the surface.

Base pour

This method is implemented using a self-leveling screed designed for wooden surfaces. It consists of fiberglass, which securely fixes the surface. To level the screed, we grind the base of the floor, close up large voids with putty, primer, and fix the waterproofing around the perimeter.

Using a stapler, we mount a reinforcing mesh with an overlap of 5-10 cm. Pour the prepared solution onto the surface and level the surface with a spatula.

We lay the substrate

The underlay serves as additional sound insulation, it hides small irregularities and prevents the laminate from rubbing against the wooden base.

At the moment, there is a large selection of substrates for laminate:

• The most environmentally friendly can be considered cork options. They hide unevenness well and are excellent thermal insulation. Of the minuses, only the high price can be noted.
• bituminous cork underlayment is also a good option. The production technology is as follows: special paper is treated with bitumen and cork chips are applied. The disadvantages include harmful emissions, but they are negligible.

• Styrofoam is a relatively cheap material that also absorbs noise well, hides irregularities, but is not as durable as previous types.
• Foamed polyethylene popular among consumers due to its low cost. It is convenient to mount it yourself, it has moisture resistant properties. But this material quickly fails: it sags and loses its shape. On a prepared and leveled floor, it is enough to use a substrate with a thickness of 1-3 mm.

After choosing the substrate, it is necessary to lay it on the floor. First, fix the damper tape around the edges of the room. It compensates for the expansion of the tree. Next, we cut the substrate into strips of the required length, lay them on the surface and glue all the joints with construction tape.

Laying laminated sheets

We bring the laminate into the room where it will be installed, and wait 2 days for it to adapt to climatic conditions. At this time, it is necessary to decide on the direction of laying the boards: parallel to the light, perpendicular or diagonal.

If the room has windows on one side, experts recommend laying the material along the sunlight so that the seams of the laminate are more hidden.

For DIY installation, you will need the following tool:

• A mallet to tap the place where the boards are attached.
• A bar on which we will directly knock to fit the boards to each other. Better if it is wooden. Remember that in no case should you knock directly on the laminate, as this can damage the surface or the locks themselves. In this case, the installation of the next level will not be possible.
• Wedges for setting the gap between wall and floor.

• A montage will be required to secure the last layer.
• Jigsaw for sawing laminate to size. If this is not available, do not worry, you can use a regular saw. Problems can only arise with the last row, when you need to saw the board along.
• Ruler, pencil, measuring tape.

There are 2 ways to attach laminate flooring: with Click, with Lock and with glue.

Installation with Click and Lock

We always start the flooring from the far left corner. First, we set the wedges for the gap between the future coating and the wall. They must be at least 10 mm for a room up to 10 m2. It should be borne in mind that with an increase in the area, it is necessary to increase the size of the gap. If this distance is not left, then with an increase in humidity or a change in temperature, the laminate may bend.

• Click lock. We put the first board in the left corner with a pre-sawn comb against the wall. We insert the next one at an angle of 30 degrees and press it to the floor to secure the lock. At the same time, you will hear a characteristic click, which will serve as a signal for the correct bonding of the layers to each other. Laminate surfaces must be laid in a checkerboard pattern so that the pressure is distributed and the seams do not rub against each other.

If the panel was cut in the last row, then the rest of it must be placed at the beginning of the next row. If the width of the room made it possible to lay the panels without residue, then at the beginning of the next row it is necessary to cut the board in half.

• lock. The difference of this type is that the spike of the next element is inserted into the hole of the previous one. The elements are assembled on the floor, and then knocked close to each other with a mallet and a bar. This is done every two layers.

How to cover with glue?

To do this, you need a special glue. The rest of the technology is similar to mounting with a Lock. The difference is that glue is abundantly applied to the ends of the laminate. We lay the first panel in the far left corner with a groove to the wall. To fix the second panel, apply a large amount of glue to the edge of the first, insert and tap the tongue of this panel to the first.

The wooden canvas must be assembled "on the run". To do this, before laying the second row, we cut the first board in half, apply glue to the entire length of the groove of the first part of the second row and fix it to the first row, tap it. For convenience, in the last row, you can use the montage.

Upon completion of the collection, the boards are glued together with small pieces of special construction tape, which are removed after the adhesive has dried. When you start collecting the surface in the doorway, you need to make holes equal to the width of the laminate in the box. Laminated boards are inserted into these holes so that there is no gap.

Small parts under the radiators, around the radiators and at the door can be fixed with glue. After the complete installation of the laminated elements, it is necessary to remove the wedges that were left between the wall and the floor, and fix the skirting boards. It is important to make the transition between rooms, joints with other surfaces.

This can be done using thresholds. The most reliable of them are metal.

The following threshold options are available:

• single-level is used if the floor height does not differ between rooms;
• multi-level is necessary for different heights of coatings;
• the corner is fixed on the steps;
• one-sided is needed for docking with the door;
• curved is used for a wavy joint.

How to lay a square laminate?

The square look is gaining popularity. Firstly, with its help you can create unusual interiors. Secondly, such a laminate comes with imitation of various coatings, which allows you to implement any ideas. Thirdly, its installation is somewhat easier than installing a rectangular laminate. This is true when you do the installation yourself.

When installing square plates, the same conditions are observed as for rectangular ones: they are laid with brickwork, spacer wedges are installed around the perimeter of the room, it also comes with the Click and Lock fastener system. The size of such sheets is 60x60 cm.

For smaller rooms, laminate flooring is made along the walls first, but for large spaces it is necessary to assemble it diagonally. It is quite difficult to make a laminate diagonally on your own. Usually specialists are involved for this.

Laying laminate diagonally is justified in rooms with irregular or rounded shapes. This method will visually expand the space of a small room, and the picture will look more unusual. When assembling the laminate not in parallel, you need to maintain an angle of 45 degrees relative to the wall. But it is not always possible to do this, since walls rarely have a 90 degree angle. Then the indicator of the angle of inclination of the laminate can deviate up to 30 degrees.

Manufacturers indicate on the laminate that it is best to lay it on a concrete base. But if you are planning a renovation in a private house, then there are most likely wooden floors. Can laminate flooring be installed on wood floors? Can. How is the laying of laminate on a wooden floor, we will understand in the article.

Wood is a rather whimsical material, and that is why laying a laminate on it is more problematic than on a concrete base. Material manufacturers still do not recommend laying laminate on a wooden floor, so you do the work at your own peril and risk. Of course, nothing terrible will happen, it's just that over time the tree is deformed, which can lead to distortion of the laminate.

The tree can change depending on weather conditions, high humidity causes it to swell, and dryness causes it to dry out. All this can affect the lining.

Before proceeding with the installation, it is still worth making sure that the wooden planks are intact. They should not have cracks or cracks. Planks should be straight without buckling. It will not be superfluous to check for the presence of mold or insects if the tree has not been treated with special means.
The wood should not crumble, check it for rot. If there are any, then it is not only impossible to lay something on such a floor, but its complete replacement is also required. If you have only a few boards that have deteriorated, you can replace them and the neighboring ones. It is best to lift the entire floor and look at the boards for defects completely. If there are no defects, but the boards are shaking, then they need to be fixed.

Benefits of laminate

Laminate has been in great demand lately, which is not surprising. Its appearance can compete with many more expensive materials. The laminate pattern can imitate any other material, while it will look decent, and not ridiculous, as is the case with PVC panels. A wide range allows you to choose a laminate for any interior.
Laminate is divided into classes, and the higher it is, the better its characteristics. Accordingly, the price will be more expensive. But in general, the material is considered wear-resistant and durable enough.
Laminate flooring is easy to maintain, just vacuum and wipe it down with a damp cloth. Just squeeze it well and use special detergents.
Laminate is made from wood shavings. Therefore, it is a fairly safe material. But, it is treated with special means for protection. And these are the ones to pay attention to.

Unscrupulous manufacturers can save on this, so contact only trusted suppliers. And so the laminate can be laid even in the children's room, it will not harm human health.
When repairing, the budget is often limited and the question may arise: is it possible to lay the laminate yourself? Yes, you can do the work without special training, installation is not difficult and laborious.

The term of operation of the laminate, subject to all conditions of installation and use, reaches 20 years. In the process, it will not lose its appearance if it is properly cared for.

Preparing the floor for installation

Laminate is installed in a locking way. You don't need glue during the process. Although it is sometimes used, but then it will not be possible to replace a separate element, and the quality of such a floor will be inferior.

Laminate is made on the basis of wood, which means that it cannot be used in rooms with high humidity. The only exceptions are waterproof species. Therefore, if you are going to lay it in the kitchen, pay attention to this fact.
Before laying laminate flooring, you need to prepare the floor. How to do it? First, check to see if the floor creaks. If this happens, then the boards can be fixed with self-tapping screws or anchors. Hats should not be higher than the surface of the bar, they must be carefully drowned.

Small cracks or holes can be sealed with sealant or foam. Rotten boards are best removed completely. But if the damage is minimal, you can sand the damage and treat it with an antifungal compound, and then seal the gap with foam.
If the base is uneven and there are high-altitude differences, then they must also be eliminated without fail. You can put wedges, and plywood on top, thus securing the bar in the desired angle.

How to lay laminate on a wooden floor

How to lay a laminate with your own hands on a wooden floor? Before proceeding with the installation, hold the laminate in the open package so that it adapts to the conditions of the room.

Laminate is laid only on the substrate. It depends on it the life of the material. Many manufacturers can even refuse a guarantee, since the instructions for the laminate always indicate the need for a substrate. Why is she needed? The substrate acts as an additional protective layer for the laminate itself. It takes over the function of the base leveler.
The substrate can absorb a certain amount of moisture without letting it through to the planks. The laminate will lie on it evenly and will not subsequently stagger and rub against the base, which significantly increases its service life. In addition, it acts as an additional material for heat and sound insulation.

The substrate is spread out in sheets end to end. There shouldn't be even the slightest overlap. Tape is used to fasten the sheets. The installation of the laminate starts from the wall, attach spacers 1 cm thick to it, so that later it does not swell or bevel.

The first planks are installed with a spike to the wall. The boards are stacked in a checkerboard pattern, so the next row starts with half the board. Planks are attached to each other in two ways: click and lock. With the click system, the board tilts at an angle of 30-45 degrees and is pressed against another board with force. When the lock clicks into place, you will hear a click. You can additionally tap the board with a rubber mallet to consolidate the effect.

The lock system immediately uses a rubber mallet. You just need to hammer one bar to another until it clicks. If there are obstacles in the form of pipes in your way, then simply cut the panel so that the hole is then placed on the pipe. A hole is cut into the board. You need to make it a little wider than the pipe itself, and then lay the rubber gasket. The last panel may be wider than necessary. In this case, it must be cut off. This must be done very carefully.

Sometimes the laminate is laid on the glue. More often this method is used in rooms with high humidity. The process is almost identical to the castle, only at the joints you do not attach the planks to each other, but glue them.

In the process, for better fixation, you can use adhesive tape at the joints. Then you need to wait until the glue is completely dry and you can remove the adhesive tape.