Looking for clear water. Northern Urals from the latitudinal section of the flow of the Shugor River to the upper reaches of the Pechora Fish and fishing

The Shchuger River is one of the most interesting and popular tourist rivers in the Subpolar Urals. With its geographical position, the beauty of the surrounding mountains, its mountainous character, it attracts tourists from various cities and regions of our country, the number of which is increasing every year.

schuger- the largest right tributary of the Pechora. It originates from the Saran-Iz ridge with the highest peak Pele-Nyer (1075 m). Here, on the northeastern slope of the mountain range from a height of 720 m above sea level, the Shchuger begins its more than three hundred kilometers (304 km) journey to the confluence with the Pechora.

There are several exits to the upper reaches of the mountain Shchuger. Rafting can be started from the road bridge (Coordinates: 63°19"41"N 59°7"26"E) on the Pripolyarny highway.

Pony Yu- the left tributary of the Shchuger - has a length of 31 km. This is a fast shallow river, the lower course of which, for 8 km, can be used for carrying cargo by kayak.

The Shchuger River at the confluence of the Pon-Yu has a width of up to 20 m with an average depth of 0.5-0.6 m. From here you can start rafting in kayaks, and at elevated water levels - on a raft or boats.


Pon-Yu River - Moroya River (57 km).
Slow small rolls follow one after another. The speed of the river flow does not exceed 1 m/sec. The river bed is replete with islands, the river is divided into numerous channels, often very small. In low water, even in kayaks, it is difficult to go through some of the rifts of the upper reaches of the Shchugor. On the 12th km of the way, the riverbed crosses an easily passable threshold formed by a group of stones.

20 km from Pon Yu after a large island, the river makes a large bend, after which again a simple threshold. In the left turn of the river, the channel narrows, the fast current hits the coastal rock and, reflected from it, rolls over the stone slab in a raging stream. The slab blocks the channel almost along the entire width of the river, leaving only a narrow passage near the left bank. At high water levels, the plate is hidden under water, and passing the rapids in a kayak and raft is not difficult.

To the right and to the left along the course of the river there are two lines of mountains, covered with forest from below, gray stony ridges go above. Severe, sharply defined peaks rise above the river valley. Telpos ridge: Khora-Iz (1326 m), Khalmer-Sala (1274 m), the highest peak of this part of the Urals is also clearly visible - Telpos-Iz (1617 m).

On the slopes of the mountain ranges surrounding the river valley, there are numerous caravans with snow-white spots of snowfields and small glaciers. Small but turbulent rivers originate from them, filling Shchugor with clean mountain water.

On the 35th km of the way, a turbulent stream flows into the Shchuger from the left, originating from a large tarn lake at the southeastern foot of Mount Hora-Iz. On it you can make an interesting ascent to this little-studied peak of the Urals.

The river flows to the north, making countless turns, continually changing depth and width (from 20 to 70 m).
Closer to the mouth of the Khalmerya (63.806021, 59.409877) and Moroi rivers flowing down from the Telpos range, the river becomes more even, there are fewer stones in the channel. At the bends of the river, a majestic panorama of Telpos-Iz opens up, dominating all the nearby peaks. In quiet sections of the river, the peak is reflected in the water, leaving an unforgettable impression.

Soon, the Shchuger receives the Moroya River (63.827149, 59.408271). Not far from the mouth of the river you can find a good place to camp. From here you can make a radial exit to the Telpossky ridge, inspect the Govorukhin glacier, climb Telpos-Iz.


Moroya River - Big Rapid (11 km).
6 km from the mouth of the river. The Moroya flows into a stream on the right, from which it is no more than 2 km to the Great Rapid. The mountains approaching the river squeeze the Shchuger, cluttering it with rock fragments and boulders. The river is crossed by an old moraine ridge, which forms the threshold (63.920657, 59.473203).
The entire threshold can be divided into three steps of 800 m each. Between the steps there are calm stretches of the river. The ability to pass the threshold by kayak and raft depends to a large extent on the water level in the river. Rafts will have to be thrown into low water and rebuilt below the threshold, and kayaks will have to be fenced along the shore.

In medium and high water, the threshold comes to life, clearly defined plums appear, along which kayaks and rafts can be navigated. But in order to successfully pass the threshold, it is necessary to make a preliminary reconnaissance, outline the path of the vessel, and remember the characteristic landmarks. The second step of the rapid is the most difficult, at the exit from which the river bed is blocked by a rocky ridge forming a steep drain, more than 1 m high.


Big threshold - the mouth of the river Telpos (58 km).
Beyond the threshold, the riverbed widens to 100-150 m and becomes shallow again. 15 km below the Big Threshold, the Volokovka River (64.024648, 59.487044) flows into Shchugor, along the valley of which the Sibiryakovsky tract (64.026269, 59.440512) passed at the end of the 19th century - the road from Pechora to the Ob, laid by the industrialist Sibiryakov for the export of Siberian bread.

2 km from Volokovka, on the right bank of the Shchuger, there is a closed hydrometeorological station Verkhny Shchugor and a helipad (64.031014, 59.457960). The station is not visible from the river.

Shallow water stretches up to the confluence of the Torgovaya River (Hatemalya - 64.057192, 59.414616) 7 km from the weather station. At the confluence of the Torgovoi Shchugor, it changes its direction to the west and enters a narrow valley between the Telpossky Ridge and the Research Ridge, forming a series of fast riffles and simple shivers. Then the river makes several sharp turns and receives from the left numerous small rivers flowing from the northern and western slopes of Telpos-Iza. One of the streams (Durnoy-Yol), flowing in a deep gorge, leads to the most convenient way to Telpos-Iz (15 km).

Telpos-Iz translated into Russian means "Nest of the Winds". The mountain lives up to its name. Winds are constantly blowing in the Telpos-Iza area, and the summit is often covered with a cap of clouds. This greatly complicates the ascent to the summit, and if the group does not have experience of hiking in difficult weather conditions, it is impossible to recommend climbing Telpos Is.
Below the mouth of the stream Durnoy-Iol, the rifts follow one after another. The most difficult of them, the so-called "Bad threshold" is located near the mountain 1052 m, located in alignment with the peak of Telpos-Iz. Along the banks of the river, high coastal cliffs are increasingly encountered. At the 58th km from the Big Rapids, Shchugor receives a large tributary - the Telpos River (63.964736, 58.8846111).


Telpos river - Upper gate of Shchuger (75 km).
The width of the Shchuger below the mouth of the Telpos River reaches 100 m. The river makes a sharp bend and rushes to the north. The banks of the Shchuger are high, sometimes sheer, limestone cliffs abruptly break off to the water. At the confluence of the river on the left. Sed-Yu (64.008269, 58.638523) Shchuger is included in the region of parmas. After 7 km, on the left bank of the river, you can see the remains of the settlement of Gerd-Yu (64 ° 4 "18" N 58 ° 38 "23" E). Opposite the picturesque rock Gerd-Yu rises. From the former weather station to the remains of the village of Gerd-Yu, rafts usually sail in two days.

At the 42nd km, Shchugor takes the river from the right. Small Patok (64.163821, 58.550042). At the mouth of the tributary there is a hunting hut (64.166292, 58.561800), where you can stay for the night. Below the mouth of the Small Patok, the Shchugor becomes even more abounding in water. From here begins one of the most beautiful sections of the Shchugor River. Almost throughout its length, the river has a mountainous character. Rocky rifts and simple shivers alternate with stretches, along the banks of which high cliffs often rise.
At the 30th km of the path, there is a Shirokoye reach, below which there is a strong roll-shiver Narrow mouth. The length of the roll is 2 km. The roll splits

into Upper, Middle and Lower. The most stormy - Middle roll - at the rock Shelyasor.
On the 33rd km of the way from Maly Patok, the channel of the Shchuger narrows, forming the Upper Gate. They are cliffs that rise sheer on both banks of the river, along which the Shchuger flows calmly. Above the Upper Gate on the right, the stream Veldor-Kyrta-Iol (Veldor-Kyrtael -64.166292, 58.561800) flows into Shchugor. A picturesque waterfall is located 200 m up the stream. At the mouth of the stream - a convenient place to camp.


The upper gate is the village of Ust-Shchugor (76 km).
Below the Upper Gate, the Shchuger makes a big bend and rushes to the west. 2 km below the gate, in the river bed, there is a rift called Krivoy, which is a steep drain with a complex fairway between two islands. Below the Krivoi shoal, the Krasny stream flows to the right, after which there is a simple Parapon shoal. The left bank of the river rises with the beautiful Parapon-Kyrta rock. The next rift is called Zyryan-rift and it is located in front of the Shchuger Middle Gate - the most picturesque on the river.

From the Middle Gate, 9 km remains to a large tributary - the Bolshoy Patok River (64.340784, 58.199518). At the mouth of the Great Patok there is an island, which must be bypassed along the left channel. The width of the rivers reaches 180-200 m.

The taiga often recedes from the coast, giving way to water meadows, 4 km below the mouth of the Bolshoi Patok on the left bank, you can see the fishermen's base. At the 24th km from Bolshoi Patok, the riverbed forks into two channels, forming an island (64.204320, 58.046398). Passage is possible on the right duct.

At the exit from it, there used to be the first settlement of the route - the Michabichevnik parking lot (64.194550, 58.033040). Several families of hereditary fishermen and hunters lived in the village.

At the exit from the bend, the last - Lower - gates (5 km) are located. If there is time, tourists can take an excursion to the Lower Gate area and see the seven caves.


Below the last gate, the Shchuger flows in low banks. In the wide channel of the river (300 m) there are many shoals, there are large and small islands. The water in the river is clean and clear. There are many ducks on the river, and game and animals in the riverine forests.

The end point of the water trip - the village Ust-Shchuger(64.194550, 58.033040) is located on the left bank near the Pechora, 2 km below the mouth of the river. Shchuger.

There are currently no settlements on the river. There are tourist camps equipped by employees of the Yugyd Va National Park, ecological tourism is developing.

Material used: Golovko V.K., Okoneshnikov V.A. along the rivers of the Urals. Sverdlovsk, Middle Ural book publishing house, 1973.

The Shchugor is a protected river, one of the rivers of the national park in the Komi Republic "Yugyd va".

Shchugor originates from springs in the heart of the Northern Urals, flows briskly between the ridges along the valley to the north, and then goes to the west, along the Pechora lowland and flows into the river Pechora .
Shchugor flows all its way through the territory of the Yugyd Va National Park.

The river originates in one of the most remote places, in the region of the "pole of relative inaccessibility" of the Northern Urals. The source is located at an altitude of more than 750 meters above sea level, between the peaks of the mountains Molydiz, Akvalsupnel and Paryaur.

For the first 100 km, the Shchugor flows almost strictly to the north, along the valley bounded by the meridional ridges of Yany-Yankech, Khosaner and Summahner from the east, and by the ridges of Tuytymner, Telpossky and Uuty from the west. In the area of ​​​​Mount Telposiz, Shchugor goes along the conditional border between the Northern and Subpolar Urals. Here it turns west and crosses the western ridges of the Ural Mountains, breaking through between Telposiz and the southern slopes of the Research Ridge. Further, the Shchugor crosses the parma region, and flows into the Pechora near the village of Ust-Shchugor.
Shchugor is characterized by exceptional purity and transparency of water. The river is shallow almost throughout its entire length, abounds in shivers, and there are rapids. There are several interesting geological monuments on Shchugor: Ovin-stone, Upper, Middle and Lower Gates.
At the end of the 19th century, the Sibiryakovsky tract (Shchugorsky portage) passed along the Shchugor - the road from Pechora to the Ob, laid by the industrialist Sibiryakov for the export of Siberian bread.
There are currently no settlements on the river. There are tourist camps equipped by employees of the Yugyd Va National Park, and ecological tourism is developing.
The main tributaries are the rivers: Hatemalya (Torgovaya), Telpos, Small and Big Patok.

Shchugor river

Geographical position of the river Shchugor
Shchugor (Shchugyr) - a mountain river in the Komi Republic, right tributary of the Pechora River. It originates on the western slope of the Northern Urals (from the slope of Mount Molydiz).1
The length of the river is 300 km, the basin area is 9660 km². Sources on the western slope of the Northern Urals. The river is fed by rain and snow. Average water consumption - 252 m³ / sec. Freeze from late October to early June.
Shchugor is a salmon spawning ground.
The Shchugor is a protected river, one of the rivers of the national park in the Komi Republic "Yugyd va". The transparency of the water in the Shchugor River reaches a significant value, the bottom is visible at a depth of 8 meters.
The Shchugor springs from springs in the very heart of the Northern Urals, flows briskly between the ridges along the valley to the north, and then goes to the west, along the Pechora lowland and flows into the Pechora.

Brief guidance of the Shchugor River (rapids, rifts)

Ponyu - Moroya (57 km). The Shchugor at the confluence of the Ponyu has a width of up to 20 m with an average depth of 0.5-0.6 m, a speed of 1 m/s. Small rifts, in the riverbed - islands. The river is divided into channels, often very small. At 12 km, an easily passable threshold formed by a group of stones.
At 20 km from Ponyu, after a large island, the river makes a bend, after which again a simple threshold. In the left turn of the river, the channel narrows, the fast current hits the coastal rock and, reflected from it, rolls over the stone slab. The plate almost blocks the channel, leaving only a narrow passage near the left bank.
Good stop 25 km from Ponyu on the dry right bank below the mouth of the left tributary of the Shchugor. At 35 km of the way, a large stream flows to the left, originating from a large tarn lake at the southeastern foot of Hora-Iz. On it you can climb to this peak (12 km).
Closer to the mouth of the Halmerya and Moroya rivers, the current becomes more even, there are fewer stones in the channel. Passing the mouth of the river Halmerya, flowing from a picturesque lake in the Telpossky ridge, after 2 km the mouth of Moroi, below which there is a large island (750 m long). Opposite the island, on the left elevated bank, near a large spruce with bark removed from the bottom of the trunk, there is a place for a camp. From here you can make a radial trip to the Telpossky ridge, the South glacier at the source of Moroi, the Govorukhin glacier - the source of Telpos-yu, try to climb Telpos-Iz.
It makes no sense to go through the Moroi valley - the river makes a loop to the north, and the banks are swampy. From the camp straight to the west (azimuth 270 degrees). The first 8-10 km is a difficult path - a swampy valley and windbreak taiga. At the upper border of the forest, turn to the northwest, exit after 3 km to the Moroi shore. Walk up the river 6 km to the lake, against which the tongue of the Yuzhny glacier rests. The second peak of the ridge (1475 m) is located 1 km north of the glacier, which is easy to climb by going around the kar and the glacier in it (2 km) from the west. Climbing Telpos from here is difficult. You will have to go down 1 km from a steep slope to the north to the worg near the pass, passing east of the Govorukhin glacier. Walk 2 km along the worg to the east and, having rounded the spur of the ridge from the east, start climbing along the crest of the ridge to the top (6 km). The entire route with the ascent to Telpos-iz is 5-6 km in both directions.

Ural, map of the river Shchugor

R. Moroya - Big threshold (11 km). 6 km from the mouth of the river. Moroya flows into a stream on the right, from which it is no more than 2 km to B. Threshold. The river is crossed by an old moraine ridge, which forms the threshold. The channel is littered with boulders for 3 km, through which foaming water rapidly rolls. The entire threshold can be divided into 3 steps of 800 m each. Between the steps there are areas of still water. The 2nd step of the rapid is the most difficult, at the exit from which the river bed is blocked by a rocky ridge, forming a steep drain more than 1m high.
Big Threshold - r. Telpos (58 km). Behind the threshold, the width of the channel is 100-150 m and again shallow. 15 km below B. Threshold flows into the river. Volokovka. 2 km below it on the right bank - HMS "Verkhny Shchugor" (250 m from the water, on a hill). From HMS to the river. Trading 7 km stretches shallow water. The trade flows into the right with three sleeves. There are many graylings in a deep hole opposite the mouth. The Shchugor changes direction to the west and flows almost to the confluence of the Sedyu. From the north, Shchugor bypasses Mount Shakhtarova, located east of the Telpos-iz massif. The river is still with a fast current, rapids, but they do not prevent the descent. Quite often there are low islands, so you need to watch the flow so as not to get into a dry arm.
Shchugor enters a narrow valley between the Telposizky Ridge and the Research Ridge, forming a series of fast rifts and simple shivers. Then it makes several sharp turns and takes numerous small rivers on the left. The most convenient way to Telpos-iz (12-15 km) passes along one of the streams (Durnoy-yol), flowing in a deep gorge. This area is characterized by continuous winds and clouds. Even on the clearest days, a cap of clouds hangs over the peak, and cold winds near the mountains. The slopes are covered with lichen and are stepped screes that slide down at the slightest touch. It often rains, after which the lichen becomes slippery and the climb seems endless. The summit of Telpos-iz is separated from the south by deep troughs with steep slopes, in some places covered with talus. The slopes of the upper part of Telpos-iz are formed by three kars. In one glacier, and in the other an oblong lake. Sheer cliffs above the lake rise up to 500 m. The water is very clean, turquoise. Its depth is up to 50 m. The northern car has the most correct shape. At its base there is a lake and then a flat plateau strewn with large boulders. At a considerable distance from the Kara, the plateau breaks off with a steep slope with talus, giving rise to the valleys of two small tributaries of the Shugor. One of them (the valley of the Durnoi-yol stream) deeply cut into glacial deposits.
At the mouth of the river Deep Shchugor breaks up into branches, forming numerous low islands. The deep flows into the right duct, and usually passes along the left. Therefore, he always goes unnoticed. 12 km below Glubnik, the mouth of the river. Telpos.

Shchugor river, rafting on the Komi rivers

Below the mouth of the Bad Yule, the rifts follow one after another. The rapids here are characterized by a frantic current, and some threaten with large boulders sticking out of the water. The most difficult - "Bad threshold" - at the mountain 1052 m, located in alignment with the peak of Telpos-iz. Below the mouth of the Bad Yule, after a large bend to the north, Shchugor again rushes to the west. At 58 km from B. Threshold, he takes the river. Telpos. To the left of the mouth, on a low pebbly shore, there is a good place for a camp - there is almost always a breeze (from midges), and to the left of the mouth there is a pit, above which grayling is well caught at the rift.
Telpos - Upper Gate (75 km). Near the mouth of the river Telpos (flows from the left) Shchugor calms down a little. The first high cliffs are shown. 20 km below Telpos, Shchugor receives the Sedya River on the left, enters the parma region. After 7 km on the left bank - the remains of the settlement of Gerd-Yu, opposite the picturesque rock Gerd-Yu. The width of the river here is 100 m. At 42 km from Telpos, a large tributary, the Small Patok, flows in on the right, in front of the very mouth there is a significant rapid, and beyond the threshold there is a pit with a lot of grayling.
In the Parma area (110 km) Shchugor has the character of a mountain river. Deep long stretches alternate with rifts and rapids. At 30 km of the way - a wide reach, below which there is a strong rift - a shiver Narrow mouth. Its length is 2 km. Subdivided into Upper, Middle and Lower. The most stormy is Sredny at the Shelyasor rock.
At 33-35 km from M. Patok, the Shchugor channel narrows, forming the Upper Gate. In front of the gate we sail past the right rocky shore. These rocks were cut by the deep stream Vel-dor-kyrtayol, which flows into the Shchugor. When you reach him, you can hear the sound of falling water. The stream is very beautiful, flows in a deep gorge overgrown with forest. Climbing 200 m up the stream, we saw a powerful beautiful waterfall (15 m). Opposite the mouth of the stream on the left bank is a good place to camp. Fishing is good here and there are 4 caves on the right bank. One of the cave grottoes is located 25 m above Shchugor below the mouth of the stream. Its height is 3.5 m, width up to 5 m. Below the stream, the river valley narrows, forming the Upper Gate.
Upper Gate - Ust-Shchugor (76 km). 2 km below the gate there is a Krivoy rift - a steep drain with a difficult fairway between two islands. Below the crooked creek Krasny. Zyryan - a roll in front of the Middle Gate (the most spectacular). From the Upper Gate to the Middle Gate 9 km. In the rocks of the Middle Gate is the largest Sher-kyrt cave. Its length is 100 m, the height of one of the grottoes is 6 m. The rocks of the Gate rise to 100 m. At the exit from the Gate, the left bank recedes far, but the right one rises and exposes Permian thin-layered sandstones and shales.
9 km below the Gates, Shchugor receives B. Patok, in front of which there is a violent, unsafe threshold with high standing ramparts. At the mouth of B. Patok there is an island, which is bypassed along the left channel. The width of the river here is 180-200 m. There are many small places below B. Patok. After 2.5-3 hours, the channel branches into 2 channels, forming an island. It is better to go on the right, it is deeper, at the end of it on the high right bank (24 km below the mouth of Bolshaya Patoka) is the village of Michabechevnik. From it to Ust-Shchugor 32 km. There are still dangerous rifts and very picturesque Lower Gates ahead. There are many fossil shells, 7 caves in their layers. The width of the channel here is up to 300 m, there are many shoals. Several islands appear, but they also disappear. The valley becomes wide, and in a few hours the current takes it to the Pechora. On the left bank of the Pechora, 2 km below the mouth of the Shchugor, is the village of Ust-Shchugor.

Shchugor river
Water register data, Shchugor river

According to the State Water Register of Russia, it belongs to the Dvinsko-Pechora basin district, the water management section of the river is the Pechora from the water metering station near the village of Sherdino to the confluence of the Usa River, the river sub-basin of the river is the basins of the tributaries of the Pechora to the confluence of the Usa. The river basin of the river is the Pechora.
According to the geoinformation system for water management zoning of the territory of the Russian Federation, prepared by the Federal Agency for Water Resources:
The code of the water body in the state water register is 03050100212103000062064
Code for hydrological knowledge (GI) - 103006206
Pool code - 03.05.01.002
GI volume number - 03
GI release - 0

Tributaries (km from mouth)
10 km: Medvezhya river (lv)
10 km: river Ustye-Temyol (lv)
15 km: river Ezovy-Yol (lv)
16 km: Tokaryol river (pr)
22 km: river Kyrtayol (pr)
32 km: unnamed watercourse (pr)
34 km: river Katya-Yol (lv)
35 km: river Malaya Katya-Yol (lv)
53 km: Bolshoi Patok (Ijid Potok) river (pr)
61 km: Sher-Kyrtayol river (pr)
72 km: river Veldor-Kyrtayol (pr)
103 km: unnamed river (lv)
106 km: Maly Patok (Small Potok) river (pr)
110 km: unnamed river (pr)
118 km: Gerdyu river (lv)
127 km: river Sed-Yu (lv)
147 km: Telpos river (lv)
158 km: unnamed river (pr)
159 km: Glubnik river (pr)
172 km: unnamed river (pr)
172 km: Nyart-Syuyu river (lv)
183 km: Hatemalya River (Torgovaya) (pr)
192 km: Volokovka river (Volokovaya, Naxorne-Volokhovka) (pr)
217 km: Moroya river (lv)
220 km: Halmerya river (lv)
256 km: unnamed river (lv)
260 km: unnamed river (lv)
272 km: Pelenkurya river (pr)
275 km: Ponja river (lv).

Rocks Upper Gate of the Shchugor River

In the Vuktyl region, a canyon-like section of the river valley is subject to protection. Shchugor, which is a complex GBP of federal significance. The rocky sides of the canyon are composed of Carboniferous deposits. The upper part of the section is represented by reef massive limestones of the Gzhelian stage with the richest complex of fossil brachiopods. At the left bank exit, the contact of Carboniferous limestones and Permian terrigenous deposits is traced.
In the right-bank part of the canyon, there are interesting forms of weathering: pillars, cones, caves, niches, bas-reliefs. Here, the Vodopadny stream flows into the river, which owes its name to a picturesque waterfall more than 15 m high, one of the largest in the Northern Urals. GSP bears the features of stratigraphic, paleontological and geomorphological types.

Hike to the river Shchugor (Veslo.ru)

The Shchugor is a mattress river, with the exception of a rather cheerful three-kilometer rapid in the upper reaches. It originates from springs in the very heart of the Northern Urals, flows briskly between the ridges along the valley to the north, and then goes west, along the Pripechora lowland and flows into the Pechora. The total fall of the river is more than 330 meters, and the length of the route from the gas pipeline to the mouth is about 320 kilometers.
The Shchugor flows through the territory of "Yugyd Va", which in the Komi language means "bright water". In my opinion, it is Shchugor that personifies the park - I have never seen cleaner and clearer water throughout the rafting. Even just for the sake of it, you can make such a long journey! ... You can drink water from the board at any time, dilute tea; handsome graylings are visible under the boat, colored pebbles at the bottom are visible to the smallest detail, and on a sunny day the bottom in the pits is visible at a depth of up to eight meters! Children were almost constantly in the water, despite its coolness. After the trip, I didn’t have a single crack on my fingers, as usually happened after Karelia ... To be honest, I expected the water to be much colder, and I ordered everyone to take swamps, but the river goes well in neoprene slippers and even in ordinary sneakers, and fish is no problem You can fish from the shore and from a boat.
Throughout the river, hundreds of small streams and springs, pristine and cold, run into it. The bottom of the river is always pebbles of various sizes.

Shchugor's character is swift, but not dangerous - small rifts, rapids and shivers are interspersed with sluggish deep spills or standing pits near the rocks. However, even in such low water, in which we traditionally landed (40 cm less than usual), in the middle reaches of the river it was possible to make up to 40 kilometers (in some places the river runs at a speed of ~ 4 km / h), and thirty walked without any tension at all. True, in the lower reaches we seriously struggled with the wind, and in the upper reaches we had to squirm for a couple of days, dragging boats through shallow rifts, which greatly reduced the speed of movement (~ 15 km per day). But the towing is not particularly stressful there: there are no blockages on Shchugor, the river winds from pebble to pebble, small places are searched for ford. The river is constantly divided into islands, forcing you to read the water and choose the right channel at the level of intuition. The lowering of the edge of the forest does not always indicate a good stream, and a wide and seemingly full-flowing arm can be 10 cm deep.

The tributaries of the drought turned into modest streams, littered with stones, and vividly reminded me of the sadly heroic campaign along Lakhna. The Leningraders, who were stacking with us, hit hard - they intended to go up the Torgovaya kat, drag and go down the Maly Patok to Shchugor. As a result, the guys carried the kat on their hands almost the entire way, went without days off and normal rest. We met them already on the slipway, emaciated and silent; and only alcohol seems to have poured life into them ... J

Banks of the river Shchugor

The forest is gloomy, dense, full of deadwood and not intended for walking - real animal thickets. So there is no problem of deadwood for the fire. There are practically no cheerful clearings, fields and meadows - their mission is carried out by stone pebbles and screes overgrown with grass.
Parking on Shchugor, in their depraved Karelian understanding, is also almost non-existent. Personally, it just made me happy. Thank God, this river has not yet been trampled and polluted. After the slipway, for two weeks of being on the water, we did not meet a single tourist.
You can swim 20, 30 kilometers - and the coast will be inhospitable everywhere - either pebbles, or rocks, or hummocky clearings with impenetrable forest stands and grass up to the very neck. Crooked birches and diseased brownish fir-trees overgrown with beards alternate here and there with bright young fir or cedar. There are no pines, they appear only on the Pechora, where the sand begins.
In principle, you can stand on the edge anywhere, the banks are not swampy - which we did in a couple of cases. A couple of times we got up on the islands (marked). I recommend getting up on the windward side so that the wind disperses the gorges. But most of the sites indicated on the electronic map are still suitable for the group, although they had to be searched. Officially, only a couple of parking lots are marked with the park - one of them is opposite the rocks of the Upper Gate, and there are also good places in the “alien parking lot” and “parking lot No. 6”; the latter is visible from the water only thanks to a column made of stones. The weather station no longer exists, as such, but the landmark remains: on the high right bank among the trees, a small gray house and a shield without an inscription are not immediately visible. There are three dirty mattresses in the house, so it is better to spend the night on the shore; which we did.

Unfortunately, there were no mushrooms in Komi due to the lack of rain for a month, but blueberries could be found on almost all rocks covered with moss. Lingonberries were just starting to set, and cloudberries were sitting in the lowlands, but they were not in great demand, because the alcohol on them is not very tasty.
It should be noted that the weather favored us greatly this time - in fact, we returned from the resort, and even with living water!

fishing on the river Shchugor, grayling

Checkpoints and huntsmen, opera and poachers…

At the checkpoint in the lower reaches of the Shchugor (marked on the palm-map), we had a great pleasure to talk with the state inspector Nikolai Mikhailovich, who has been working in the park almost from the day it was founded and told us a lot of interesting things about the life of the region. We learned from him that such heat and such early midges are generally hard to remember. Therefore, the water is half a meter lower, and there are no gifts ...
... The checkpoint is a kind of cordon for raiders from Pechora, but tourists are treated like human beings here. Do not grab too much, do not crap, put out fires - and you will be welcome. Since there were no parking places, we were offered to stay overnight. Part of the group settled in a hut with a stove, and lovers of fresh air set up tents in the yard.
We talked about poaching and fishing. All huntsmen are well aware that the turrier catches grayling on spinning; well, he’ll catch a bucket, salt it, fry it, not a big loss. Other animals are scary in the park, about which below ...

Operatives, subordinate to Komirybvod, quietly sneak up on the guests on a fantastic pepelats - a hovercraft. Their faces are incorruptible, their eyes are strict... 8) An air cushion allows you to quickly walk along the river and overcome rifts upstream. Operas catch poachers and scowl at tourists' boats. But tourists do not catch salmon, there is nowhere to put it, there is a lot of clothes. We can buy salmon every day in a nearby supermarket. The poachers remain...
However, the trouble is that the pepelats cannot climb over the Great Threshold. And poachers mostly operate to the threshold. True, salmon does not seem to reach there, but grayling and lake salmon (peled, trout) are probably taken out by trucks. They don’t catch them with a spinning rod? ... In addition, they apparently shoot animals.
It's no secret that the gas pipeline maintenance route is the only way to get "wheels into the water" on Shchugor; on the other hand, it certainly caused damage to the park and opened the doors to numerous bipedal "predators".
... From the gas pipeline and almost 30 kilometers down the "Urals" of poachers go right along the river. Many times we walked along densely driven ruts running from pebble to pebble, and where there are no braids, the Ural scratches right along the channel for hundreds of meters. On rifts, the bottom reared up by wheels blocks the channel with ridges, interfering with the migration of fry. The Pharisee bridge over the Shchugor, built by gas workers, is just an excuse for the park management. As an illustration, a green Ural was shamelessly behind us, which got up “for the night” on the island directly opposite, about 25 km from the bridge. Maybe they were waiting for a "messenger" from the tributary. Perhaps it is the park rangers themselves who are fooling, but we did not swim up to the night guests.
... To be honest, having learned about the water level, I tried to ventilate in Vuktyl whether it was possible to throw myself downstream on the Ural along the river bank. I was given an "environmental thrashing", with which I dejectedly agreed. Now we know that the cars run quietly along the riverbed. But now I saw Shchugor. And I personally don’t like such a barbaric way of throwing onto the cleanest river, I’d rather squirm a little into the wire, especially since the upper reaches are very beautiful, and it’s worth taking a walk there. Today, if I were offered to drive a couple of tens of kilometers by car, I would categorically refuse.

... The cruise boat, which was taking us back to Vuktyl, stopped opposite Andronovo, a few kilometers below Ust-Shchugor (marked with a dot "poachers") - a couple of peasants came out of the forest and loaded a bunch of heavy, tightly tied kraft bags on board. Probably there were acorns :)

Big threshold, the river Shchugor

The threshold starts from the Sumyakh-nyer ridge and flows northward in three steps for about 3 km. Each supen is punctuated by some soothing. I don’t know how we would have walked the threshold if it hadn’t rained for a day and a half before that, adding twenty centimeters to us ... I must say that the threshold pleasantly pleased us with extreme sports - the first step was rated as category 2, the second - “three rubles”, the third is about 2, 5. By and large, it all came down to skillful maneuvering on a good current between hefty stones, with shafts, plums and even barrels. Our fingered, but inexperienced kayaker dodged twice, without a lifeguard and a helmet, but in wading boots, which led me to think about accidents that give rise to tragedies, and that dummies still need to take rescue equipment on the threshold ... All other vessels went fine. Excellent fishing is on the threshold, especially in front of it and after the second step.

For a catamaran, the jets between the stones are narrow, and, it seems to me, a catamaran has nothing to do on this river at all.

We passed the threshold in two hours, of which one hour was fishing in anticipation of the slowest crew. In some reports, "the threshold passed 3 days" - well, this is the lot of the elite.

Telpos-Iz peak, view of Shchugor, Northern Urals

Climbing Telpos-Iz should be said separately. This is the highest mountain in the Northern Urals, 1617 meters above sea level. Of course, you won’t get mountain sickness there, but even such mountains once again proved to us that they must be treated with respect.
... The group ascended from "parking lot No. 6" (from the north), making a loop from left to right. Passed both peaks. Of the eight people, only three reached the very top: Irina Koloskova, Masha Solovieva and our Ilyukha Postoev.

An excellent digital photo selection was made, since the weather was clear - a huge rarity for Telpos-Isa.
Revaluation of the forces and incorrect layout of the time to climb and schedule clearly showed that the born will rarely become a climber ...)) I ran up to the bottom of the walkie-talkie until midnight, associating Ilyukha every hour, who cheerfully reported that they would “negate” and get less and less and less and less and less and less, and then he generally fell out of the radio communication zone ...
Part of the group that left at 10 am returned only at 3 am, completely exhausted. As a result of the raspis ... attitude to the mountain winds of the Northern Urals, one of the members of the group, after climbing the plateau (not even reaching the top), became seriously ill, lay in a fever for two days, and for another two days he was dragged in a lying position on a rope in my "corpse cart "(so affectionately dubbed" Scout-36 "). True, it turned out later that there was no hospital in Ust-Shchugor, but, fortunately, the peasant recovered himself, although he fell into a blues and asked for civilization.
Loss of strength and hypothermia could easily provoke pneumonia - one friend of mine had already died, albeit at a higher altitude ... We fussed, and then it turned out that none of the group had taken antibiotics! The old wolves have already got used to the fact that only diarrhea and cuts happen on mattress trips; such a habit could easily turn into a drama for a beginner, given that for three hundred kilometers there are no settlements and roads in the area.

... Telpos - It is majestic, as far as it is possible for the Urals crumbling before our eyes, and the views from it are magnificent. Bare slopes overgrown with harsh lichen, rockfalls, glaciers, blue lake water, clear streams, a lot of berries on the approaches, wind and primeval desolation ... When planning a descent along the Shchugor, be sure to allow time for the ascent - you will not regret it.
By the way, you don’t need to take water to the mountain - there is plenty of your own. Better dress warm...

mountain lake on top of Telpos

Rocks and caves

The middle course of the Shchugor is replete with beautiful rocks covered with a harsh spruce forest, clinging to the stones with its roots - sometimes in the form of cliffs, sometimes long stone walls. Sypuha is interspersed with hard rocks, on which it is quite possible to arrange rock climbing competitions. The Upper, Middle and Lower Gates are magnificent, framing the river from both banks. There are usually holes near the rocks where you can catch an ide or perch.
The main caves are located at the Middle Gate. We foolishly climbed into a shallow (~ 30 m) grotto on the very first rocks of the Middle Gate, but it is better to arrange a real cave reconnaissance below. In addition, we did not understand where the 100-meter cave was ... Apparently, on the right bank, where there are numerous "holes". Not bad if someone takes a jar of acetone with them and erases the plebeian paintings of the "guests" on the rocks. Unfortunately, we were running out of time and, according to the schedule, we didn’t even have time to look out of the corner of our eyes into the dark inviting holes in the Middle Gate...
At the Upper Gate, where we had an excellent day in the blueberry, on the right bank of the rock, a damp gorge of a nameless stream cuts through. A narrow path runs along the right bank, which leads to a beautiful waterfall that flows straight from a hole in the rock.
Grayling enters the high water in the stream to freshen up, and an ide sits in a hole near the rock ...

Fish and fishing on the river Shchugor

Fishing on Shchugor is grayling. To catch pike, perch, peled - you have to go to the inland lakes along the banks of the tributaries - Torgovaya, both Patoks. In the pits in some places there is an ide. Salmon do not bite in the summer - they do not eat anything at all, rising from the Barents Sea along the Pechora and Shchugor. Usually the salmon reaches the rapids and spawns there. In September, having swept aside the eggs, the salmon protects it, pouncing on everything that swims by and kills. At this time, it can be caught with a lure, but, firstly, catching it is prohibited, and secondly, it is already frost in September.
A herd of salmon is usually accompanied by a cloud of noisy gulls. Seagulls, it seems, generally took root on Shchugor: we saw them in the very upper reaches, they sit on fir trees like owls - a unique sight ... It remains a mystery how they cling to branches with webbed paws.

Grayling in Shchugor is large and fighting. We caught carcasses from 400 grams to one and a half kilograms. Small ones were not taken. Grayling pecks almost everywhere, best of all - at the rapids, on the lure, and on the fly. Fishing sports, gambling. Even the kids got caught!
Crazy fishing personally quickly put me on, and soon it turned out, as in a well-known joke: “they pour, let go ...” In the lower reaches, I didn’t get spinning at all - it’s a pity, especially since females with caviar began to come across completely.
We fried fish, salted them, made barbecue. There is no ear from grayling, if you do not add ide or perch to the bowler ...
For those who are passionate, but busy and live all year long in anticipation of the only fishing, spinning on the Shchugor is just a joy to the soul!
Harvesting grayling is pointless - after a couple of days, maggots are steadily starting up in the canal. So it’s worth catching it only when needed, and after a few days of eating, this need quickly subsides. Know the measure in everything!

Officially, fishing in the park is prohibited, but everyone knows that everyone is fishing. Fishing is almost the main thing for which they go to a non-categorical river. It was probably necessary to somehow license fishing for at least grayling for visitors to the park, so as not to hide the fishing rods in fright when the pepelatz appeared.
As for guns, it is better to forget about them right away.

Republic of Komi, rivers Pechora and Shchugor

Animals and "eaters"

... The animals, having survived the raid of gadflies, hid in impenetrable thickets. A large number of mammals live around Shchugor, including predators, but they stay away from people, in this sense the river is safe. We saw an elk with a calf, a reindeer, a hefty hare, a chipmunk, frogs, a lot of large longhorn beetles, wasps, bees, caterpillars of the nocturnal hawk hawk. There are butterflies, which is not at all strange - there are a lot of flowers around!
We also saw a small mouse-like rodent with a long tail and an elongated stigma, which was taken for a muskrat, brought to me and ran around my clothes for a long time, after which I didn’t find anything better than burrowing in my hair ... I have to disappoint the public - this is not our totem animal, but white-toothed shrew or water shrew. Rather, the latter - the water shrew swims well, does not disdain fry, and, apparently, we found it in the stomach of a large grayling, capturing the carcass in the photo. There is also the possibility of shrews washing out of burrows made close to the water. A sharp rise in the level of the river during heavy rain in the upper reaches catches the shrews by surprise - I watched a dead animal floating in a roll up with its paws. That's why the local graylings are so hefty - they eat mice J

Of the birds, gulls visually dominate, from top to bottom, there are falcons and many field harriers, looking out for living creatures scurrying in the stones overgrown with grass. We did not see snakes, ticks either - not that latitude ...
The mosquito, an old friend of Turya, was very modest on the river, but the midge became more active ahead of time. It was almost non-existent in the upper reaches, but in the lower reaches, in the absence of wind, whole clouds swarmed. In one place, we stood on the leeward side of the island and paid the price for laziness: I have never seen so many midges anywhere! Just look at the ten second video of me filming my legs...

Such a number of midges is explained by the catastrophic heat this year, which is unusual for the Urals. You can only fight small rubbish with a mosquito net or Gardex-Extreme spray in red cans. Nothing else helped.
To scare away midges, a folk method was used - vanillin diluted in water. The coolest thing is that it works! Vanillin does not irritate the skin on the face, but, unfortunately, its smell quickly disappears. In general, Gardex is still more reliable.

But the midge turned out to be flowers compared to what would have awaited us if we had arrived a week earlier!
It turns out that a gadfly raged on Shchugor for a month, and even in Vuktyl it ate people. The driver of the Volga showed me the trunk filled with corpses of gadflies - there was no time to clean it. The Ural gadfly is as healthy as an elk; unlike other gorges, he tears out a piece of skin when he bites, intending to lay eggs there. Throughout July, mad animals jumped out of the forest and rushed to Shchugor, trying to escape from hordes of skin-eaters. Deer plunged into the water right up to the horns! In this area for thirty years they have not remembered such heat and revelry of gadflies - so we were lucky: the creatures descended literally three days before our arrival.
As for the midge, I personally reacted to it without hysteria, considering the creature a common attribute of northern adventures. The midge keeps the routes untrodden and the rivers are clean, the grayling feeds on the midge - the joy of the soul of the fisherman - let it live, dirty animal! ...

"Zrachi" and scientific coverage

I made a curious discovery: the midge on Shchugor does not sit on the green!
I put different herms side by side: light green, blue, gray - the midge stuck around everything except light green. The same with clothes: white, gray, black, blue, red, yellow - favorite colors. But the eaters frankly did not sit on a green sweatshirt or a swamp T-shirt! And it's not the structure of the fabric, as some have suggested. For example, a sweatshirt is a very attractive, "warm" and catchy structure, a cotton t-shirt too. Nevertheless, even on myself, I observed this amazing fact: having covered my black pants with an impenetrable layer, the midge did not sit on the upper body. Some individuals, if mistakenly and sat down, then immediately flew away.
The implications are clear...
Perhaps the midge considers the green color to be vegetable, and therefore not attractive. But what about, for example, a blue windbreaker or a bright yellow carrington? There are no such animals in the local forests, and she obviously really likes this palette. Mysteries of nature...

mouth of the Shchugor River (Pechora River)

Stones on the river Shchugor

Shchugor is a paradise for those who like to dig deeper into the stones. Luxurious pebbles, in fact, do not end until Pechora itself. True, carnelian and chalcedony, as on Yarenga, were not found there, gold and malachite too, but a magnificent crystal of smoky crystal was found. “Eggs” come across - crystal or quartz crystals rolled to quartz-like turbidity. Of several broken eggs, one showed frank crystal. In two and a half kilos of stones brought home, I found at home syenite (a relative of granite, but without quartz), olivines and serpentines (serpentines) of olivine origin, patterned wax jasper (a gift from Romka! J), green jaspers, conglomerates with wax jasper, sample with crystals of uvarovite (a green variety of garnet). The rest of the prettiness did not succumb to classification, but are they less valuable for this? ...
The banks are full of quartzites, in the upper reaches there are also calcites; alas, one very beautiful leak fell off the boat and was lost ...
And we nevertheless met a vein of gold in the tops, in a huge boulder lying right in the middle of the channel, but there was no time for it - they dragged, you know, boats ...

Sun, wind and boats...

No matter how hot it is, you should definitely take a warm hat and a good windbreaker with a polar jacket for Shchugor. And sun cream. In one sunny day, the Urals are able to burn the skin much worse than in the South. My arms were burned down to the elbows, and my hands looked like rubber gloves filled with water from severe swelling. Instead of cream, you can wear a long-sleeved T-shirt and cloth gloves.
The wind in the Shchugor valley always blows in your face, no matter where you turn. On the one hand, this is good - it blows away bloodsuckers, on the other hand, sometimes it doesn’t let you move forward at all.
Inflatable boats are especially affected. The "single-engine" "Scout" sometimes did not move forward at all with a strong wind, and in spills closer to the mouth, where the river becomes wide, it did not even walk on a string. "Taimen" with two rowers could not move me at all for several minutes! "Pikes" had to rest firmly, and "Taimen" and KB went pretty well.

Let me tell you more about my boat. In fairness, I would like to note that at the tekuhe "Scout" is the very thing. Thanks to no draft, he perfectly passes small rifts, loves shivers and rapids. In the threshold, I generally got great pleasure, falling into barrels either sideways or backwards - the Scout is almost impossible to turn over. During the entire trip, he never deflated, nothing came off, and not a single pod remained on the bottom, although he dragged along the stones for kilometers. The quality of Raftmaster is excellent, to say the least. In addition, all my clothes fit into it, surprisingly - "Scout" - an expeditionary solo, with a small weight, normal handling.
I sat almost flush with the sides, and rowed along them with my usual oar (227 cm). My rowing style has not changed much compared to Desna. The inflatable bottom turned out to be very comfortable for the legs and the boat itself, which, thanks to it, “licks” obstacles. But the "bones" of the apron were not particularly successful - they constantly fell out of pockets, twisted - the design was not well thought out. In addition, it is better to shorten the front apron - otherwise it is difficult to get in and out often.
"Scout-36" is impossible, in principle, to "break" in the threshold and it is very difficult to keel.
... But the clothes created a solid hump, which only added to the windage of the boat, which had round noses that were very turned up. Lake routes and spills with the wind - death for the "single-engine" Scout. Scooping out my last strength against storm gusts at the mouth, I regretted more than once that I had sold the Desna ...
... Apparently, an inflatable is not for women in the flood J I will have to buy myself a "Marinka", not otherwise ...

I will not undertake to assert, as was said in one report, that "Pikes" are an ideal alloy for Shchugor. If in the upper reaches they “made” heavy skeletons on small rifts and shivers, then in the lower reaches they were hopelessly behind and rested against the horn in an unequal struggle with the wind ... In my opinion, the Kolibri Design Bureau turned out to be the best boat - loaded under the “solo”, she got off with a small draft, and excellent driving performance would allow her to always go ahead.

Transfer and drop to the river Shchugor

In order to avoid overlaps and unnecessary expectations, it is better to book a transfer in advance. A group of more than 8 people may have problems - we had to order a whole PAZik to Vuktyl, which cost almost twice as much.
You should arrive in Ukhta (trains from Yaroslavka to Sosnogorsk, Vorkuta or Labytnangi) no later than 21.00 - otherwise the car will not make it to the ferry in time, and you will have to sit waiting for several hours on the banks of the Pechora. A car takes about 4-5 hours to Vuktyl. The road was first asphalt, then concrete, then rolled primer, cruising speed 80 km/h. There are continuous escheated swamps around, Vuktyl itself also actually stands in the swamps. And under the swamps - gas, gas ... Not far from the city, the "eternal flame" is constantly burning, burning millions of cubic meters of gas for nothing ...

You will have to spend the night in Vuktyl, and in the morning check in at the park administration and go to the river. By the way, in the same house there is a grocery store where you can buy almost all the necessary food. "Urals" do not belong to the park, and the management is forced to look for cars on the side, from gas workers. There are loaves, they are cheaper. True, the "loaf" with a parallel group broke down before reaching the pass, and we had to take on board six people with a load.

The car goes along the gas pipeline for about 7 hours. Only along this road you can get to Shchugor. The road, oddly enough, is completely sane. The views from the first pass are very beautiful, you can stop for a bite to eat and take pictures. The main pass is inhospitable - the car crawls heavily, the road is conditional. For those who have not seen the mountains, the pass through the Tonder ridge will seem like a revelation. The Urals really seem gray-haired from lichens, which are overgrown with fragments of stones on crumbling peaks ...
Two days before our arrival, the gas workers banned the passage along the gas pipeline due to another accident. Thank God, the park administration arranged for us to spend the night in their penates and resolved this issue.
At the end point, there is nowhere to stack, but a small group can still set up tents near the shore and spend the night. We collected the boats from the evening, so that the next day turned out to be fully running. The slipway coordinates are: N63 18 32.6 E59 11 20.0, about 5 km below mark 389 on the map.

In order to order both cars, you can contact the Directorate of the National Park no later than 10 days before departure.
Phones: 8-821-46-24-763 Fomicheva Tatyana Savvateevna (director of the park),
8-821-46-22-639 Umrilova Valentina (assistant director).
Address: Vuktyl, Komsomolskaya, 5.
You can also communicate by mail: [email protected]
All issues can be resolved in writing, including sending a list of the group with passport data and itinerary in order to save time on registration. Without a ticket, the group may have problems at the checkpoint and with operas.
Just in case, Komi rescue service: 8-821-46-912-63

... About the release should be said separately. Those who have no problems with funds can pre-order a boat from Vuktyl to the mouth of the Shchugor through the national park through the directorate, and at the same time a car. But since both runs will have to be paid, the boat will cost a round sum. Therefore, it is better to time your exit to Pechora in such a way as to leave by Tuesday or Thursday, when a regular boat goes from Ust-Shchugor to Vuktyl (the schedule is 13.30, but sometimes it is late). The boat goes to the pier for about 4 hours. To make it really good, you can order a car directly from Ust-Shchugor to the pier to Ukhta or Sosnogorsk. There is no post office or hospital in the village, but there are several huts from where you can call, having agreed with the owners. We called from the saleswoman’s house (I’ll note right away that the store in the village does not work, everything is brought only on order and it’s not worth counting on food and drink there, unless someone sells natural products - there are cows, vegetable gardens.) We were forced to spend the night on the banks of the Pechora before the village itself, on the grassy shore, relying only on its own products.
The locals are quiet, only sorcerers beg for alcohol, and the day before our arrival, icons were stolen from one house ...
Telephone dispatch taxi in Vuktyl (from Ust-Shchugor): 9-2-10-44
With a few overlays, but the cargo "Gazelle" was served at the pier and for 3000 rubles and 4 hours brought us to Sosnogorsk, where we immediately took tickets for the Labytnangi-Moscow train (leaves at half past one in the night, arrives in Moscow at 5 in the morning).
You can also drive from the pier to the Vuktyl bus station and leave for Sosnogorsk by regular bus. - if you fit in;) There is a stall on the pier - beer-chips, and the city is quite far away.
There is also nothing to eat in the railway station night shop in Sosnogorsk, so tighten your belts to the first grannies with pies and potatoes at the substations.

The described method of ejection is the only real one to date.
Dreams of leaving on a barge to the glorious city of Pechora did not come true. Barges almost never go and no one is taken on board anymore - we have been turning over on the shore for almost a whole day, shouting to the passing boats.
Forget also about the possibility of leaving by boat or car from Ust-Voi or Berezovka. All roads are winter roads, and boats in the Pechora region were canceled this year due to catastrophically low water.
In addition, shoveling several tens of kilometers along the Pechora turned out to be an unpleasant occupation: the detached part of the group rowed into the sea for three days, got into a storm with a meter wave, there was nowhere to stand on the banks - either waist-high grass, or taiga - dense deadwood or a swamp ...
The water in the river is disgusting, rotten, and the stones along the shore are covered with an oil film.
The Pechora fairway has not been cleaned there for a long time - there are no funds, respectively, with navigation every year it gets worse and worse. Only a chance helped them: the marking boat took pity on the small children and drove them to Byzovaya, from where they got to the city of Pechora (20 km) by regular bus and left by the same Labytnangovsky train. As a result, Roma, Masha and Mikhail arrived in Moscow 3 days later than us.

Shchugor is an excellent non-extreme river with unprecedented purity of water, the absence of a population and ticks, excellent fishing, wonderful views, wild shores, a decent current, rocky cliffs; sailing along it, you feel true relaxation and complete detachment from civilization. Unlike the closed channels of Karelia and flat rivers, the eye simply rested on the distant hills, either pink from the sunset, or gloomy from the clouds that had settled ...
Colored patterns of licked stones running under the bottom and rock slabs with quartz veins constantly reminded you that you were in the arms of ancient mountains... And everything else became unimportant and far away.
I went on a hike completely sick, like a broken trough, but rowing therapy and cool living water performed a miracle - now I will firmly associate Shchugor with the sanatorium.

The first acquaintance with the Urals left the most pleasant impressions, despite the absence of mushrooms this year and a somewhat long route. But it is impossible to shorten it, unfortunately or fortunately. Therefore, in two weeks, Shchugor will not fit in any way, for a normal rest, 20 days are needed. The entire route (with a couple of days) is covered in 13-14 days, drop-in and out - 5-6 days. The minimum known passage time without days, at high water - 8 days. But this is more self-torture than rest.
The wind in the face and the midge that appeared in the lower reaches are perhaps the only troubles of the route. How to deal with midges, I already wrote, but the wind, it seems, only me strained out of the whole group ... ZhugorR (6).jpg

This route will allow you to get acquainted with the wonderful natural objects located on the border of the Northern and Subpolar Urals - the Shchugor River and the highest peak of the Northern Urals - Mount Telpos-Iz (1619 m). Tourists will raft on inflatable boats along the Shchugor River from the headwaters to the mouth, with an inspection of the most beautiful coastal cliffs, and will also climb the Telpos-Iz mountain.

Type of tourism: hiking, rafting.

Group size: from 2 people.

Duration: 14 days / 13 nights.

Tour cost: 25 000 rubles from a person.

Children's age: from the age of 14.

Route thread: Vuktyl - the route of the gas pipeline "Punga-Vuktyl-Ukhta" - the upper reaches of the river. Shchugor - rafting on the Shchugor river to the Durnoy-El stream - climbing the Telpos-Iz mountain (1619 m) - rafting on the Shchugor river to the village. Ust-Shchugor.

Photo*. Mountain Nest of the Winds.

*Belkov V.V., Revda.

Tour program.

Day p / p Route section. Events Way to travel Distance
1 day. From the village Vuktyl we go to the highway along the gas pipeline "Punga-Vuktyl-Ukhta", then we move along the highway to the east to the bridge over the river Shchugor. Assembly of ships, preparation for rafting. Overnight. Automobile 120 km
Day 2

Breakfast. We are completing the assembly of ships and preparation for rafting on the river. Shchugor. We pass 12 km to the mouth of the Ponya river, have lunch. After 3 km the mouth of the river Pelenkurya, 5 km below Pelenkurya we get up for the night. Recreation, fishing.

Catamaran 20 km
Day 3

Breakfast. We raft 12 km to the mouth of the left tributary. We have lunch. After lunch, we walk along the river for another 13 km. Overnight, rest, fishing.

Catamaran 25 km
Day 4

Breakfast. We go along the river for 12-13 km. On the banks of the forest - larch, birch, willow, cedar, spruce. Lots of dryness. The peaks of Telpos-Iza invincibly stick out above the clouds, and to the left of it, in the massif of Mount Hora-Iz, there is a magnificent huge steep-walled circus of regular rounded shape. We get up for lunch. After it we go to the mouth of the Moroi River. Overnight, rest, fishing.

Catamaran 25 km
Day 5 Breakfast. Rafting 9 km from the mouth of the river. Moroi to the start of the Great Cataract. Dinner. We pass the mouth of the Volokovka River and the mouth of the Torgovaya River. Dinner, overnight. Catamaran 34 km
Day 6 Breakfast, preparation for the rafting. Let's start. At the mouth of the river Nyartsu-Yu we have lunch, and after another 10 km we get up for the night on the left bank of the Shchugor, at the mouth of the Durnoy-Yel stream. Overnight, preparation for the ascent to Telpos-Iz - the mountain of the nest of winds, the highest peak of the Northern Urals. Catamaran 21 km
Day 7 The beginning of a two-day radial exit - climbing Telpos-Iz. Breakfast. We begin the ascent from the mouth of the Durnoy-Yel stream along its valley to Lake Telpos. In a convenient place near the lake, we organize an overnight stay, walk around the lake, admire the mountain landscapes, take pictures, pick mushrooms and berries, if available. On foot 7 km
Day 8 Breakfast. Leaving tents and bivouac equipment at the lake, we move along the northeastern shore of Lake Telpos for another kilometer. From here begins a steep ascent to the east-northeast to the ridge, and then along the rocky ridge to the southwest to the summit. Vertex! A majestic view opens from Telpos-Iza: in the north and northwest, mountains Neroika (1646 m), Saber (1425 m) and many others rise in a bluish haze. Under favorable weather conditions, we organize a snack with tea from thermoses at the top. Descent - on the way up to the parking lot at the mouth of the Durnoy-Yel stream. Festive banquet on the occasion of the successful ascent to one of the most significant and inaccessible peaks of the Urals. On foot 17 km
Day 9 Breakfast. We continue rafting on the Shchugor. We go to the river. Telpos, at the mouth of which we dine. At the 20th kilometer below the mouth of Telpos, Shchugor receives the Sedya River on the left. We spend the night at the mouth of the Sedyu. Catamaran 35 km
Day 10 After breakfast, we continue rafting down the Shchugor through the Parma area. At the 21st kilometer from the mouth of the Sedyu we pass a large right tributary of the Small Patok. Having descended 10 km below the mouth of M. Patok, we spend the night. Catamaran 31 km
Day 11 Breakfast. We continue rafting on the Shchugor. Lunch after 12 km. After passing 24 km in a day, we reach the stream Veldor-Kyrta-Yol. After it, the channel of the Shchugor narrows, forming the rocky “Upper Gate”. Opposite the mouth of the stream on the left bank of the Shchugor is a great place to camp. We explore the caves in the limestone outcrops of the right bank of the Shchugor. Overnight, rest, fishing. Catamaran 24 km
Day 12 Breakfast, continue rafting. We go from the Upper to the Middle Gate 11 km. Lunch combined with a tour of the cave and climbing the Shchugor root bank (the top of the rocky Gates). After lunch we go 8 km to the Bolshoy Patok River. 10 km below the mouth of B. Patok we get up for the night. Catamaran 29 km
Day 13 Breakfast. We continue the alloy. We go to the mouth of the Katya-Yel River and, a little lower, the place of the former village of Michabichevnik. At the mouth of the river Kirta-Yel we have lunch. A fast current takes us to the Pechora River. We finish the rafting in the village of Ust-Shchugor. We settle down for the night. Banquet on the occasion of the end of the active part of the trip. Catamaran 43 km
Day 14 Rest day (used in a convenient and beautiful place along the route). Field bath on the river bank, walks, photography, picking berries and mushrooms.

* The itinerary or route schedule can be adjusted on the spot, based on weather conditions, group readiness and other circumstances.

The tour price includes: equipment rental (catamarans; oars; life jackets; tents, campfire equipment, tourist rug, sleeping bag), 3 meals a day, all transfers according to the program, services of guides-instructors and a cook. The cost of the route includes accident insurance. The insurance policy is issued for the group and is kept by the instructors along the route.

Not included in the price: insurance against tick-borne encephalitis, backpack rental, photo and video shooting.
Required additions:
. Work on the program , 1 person per catamaran.
. Life jackets, oars are issued as special equipment;

As personal equipment on a hike, you must have: a backpack, a windproof suit, a rain cape, a hat, warm clothes, at least two pairs of shoes + slates or sneakers, a bathing suit, personal dishes, a flashlight, hygiene items.

Estimated additional costs: meals on the train, souvenirs.

Required documents: passport, ticket
Food: 3 times. Food is prepared by an instructor on a campfire according to recipes , if you wish, you can take part and learn a few secrets of culinary skills.
The medicine: guides have a first aid kit. You can take a personal first aid kit (if necessary).

For a long time the Podcherem-Shchugor combination was beckoning, but it seemed that a lot of time was needed (3-4 weeks).

And we had to keep within 2 weeks, so I chose the option of dragging a shorter one - not in the Ponyu river, and through Telpos river. I was a little alarmed - that this route has not been used for a long time ... but I wanted to try it.

It turned out to be very difficult to drag on Telpos river, especially 2-3 km before the stream Vaska-Kemasny-Yol(floodplain forest, littered with windbreak and densely overgrown with grass, the GPS signal is often lost, you start circling) ...

And there was no climbing (the weather did not give us a "window").

Our trip

But, let's start in order: the summer of 2019 in the basin is characterized by unprecedented watering (it rains all summer and the spring level on the rivers lasted until autumn!). In such conditions, it is much harder to climb against the current: pebble spits and gentle banks are flooded, the current is stronger, there are fewer stretches. So after talking to the National Park Inspector at Podcherye village Eugene - asked to throw us higher the village of Orlovka.


“The time will come when a city will be built on the other side of the Pechora, and a beautiful park will be laid out here, and the working people will enjoy this amazing spectacle.” V.A.Rusanov

Podcherie - Kamchatka

Arrived late in the evening steamboat "Shapkina" in the village of Podcherye and immediately we change into a “kumachka” (a long wooden punt boat, with a special “ski”, under the motor it can pass rocky rifts). It was surprisingly comfortable to move at night against the current on such a boat - very gently and reliably. Drove the boat inspector Alexey, a native and connoisseur of these places.


steamboat "Shapkina" goes through a thunderstorm

In the morning they already started moving up on their inflatable kayak "Lukna-470", but due to the high water we pulled more on foot and rarely sit on a paddle. It is possible to do up to 20 kilometers a day. But the higher - the harder each km is given. Parking lots are in good condition, many new shelters (with baths).



Petny shelter (Podcherem river) (everything is there - a shed and a hut and a fire pit and a bathhouse and even a woodshed !! and almost all shelters on Podcherem and Shchugor are made this way) (and everywhere, of course, there is a toilet and a place for garbage )

According to the plan, we reach parking "Kamchatka", there is neither a shed nor a hut - only waist-deep grass. And this is where the extreme begins. Firstly, the weather deteriorates drastically - there is a thunderstorm almost continuously! Secondly, there are no remains of the trail, no serifs - we go in azimuth (in 2 walkers).



Stream Vaska-Kemasny-Yol

Our first trip went according to plan. creek Vaska-Kemasny-Yol(reduced for myself to Vaska-Yol), and in a thunderstorm at night we found ourselves in the most difficult and unpleasant place on this portage - it was impossible to go straight - windbreak, hummocks, thickets! The GPS signal is often lost - you start to “wrap up” (also the batteries for the GPS run out, and there are spare ones in things, but it takes a long time to look ...). In general, when we, with incredible physical efforts, made 2 laps in one place and did not come close to Vaska-Yol creek- I had to leave the drop here and with great difficulty break out of these "witch" circles ...


The next day we had a day trip - Volodya's wader boots were completely torn, and he didn’t have much strength to go ... But the next day, we went through this difficult section almost straight across the sun (the sun helped to go straight when the GPS signal disappeared).

Successfully reached Telpos river, and there, due to the high water, it was difficult to find a place for the camp (almost everywhere there was water !!). But settled...


Rafting on the Telpos River

Then there was the 2nd trip for the drop and we start rafting along Telpos river.

I was struck by the virgin untouchedness of the coast - there are no traces anywhere, it's beautiful! (but problematic with campsites). The water was very high, the speed was 10-15 km/h. 50 kilometers of the river to the mouth could be flown in 3-4 hours.


We walked a little and stopped for a day at the mouth Semidyrka river- to stay longer on such a beautiful river. At night, the water began to rise sharply and our evening fire on the spit was flooded by almost 1 meter, but the tent was higher and the water did not reach ... although we were worried!

But the alloy Telpos river on such water it was fabulous - no shoals, no stones - you fly straight at high speed! But very quickly Telpos river ended.

Shchugor river

Although on Shchugor river on such water the speed was high. During the day, we walked effortlessly 60-70 kilometers, and every other day I had to do day trips to get to Ust-Shchugor village by the deadline (tickets for the steamboat were bought in advance).



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