Cleaning weapons: how to do it right. Modern methods of cleaning the barrels of rifled weapons How weapons get dirty

Remember, Leskovsky Lefty asked me to tell the tsar-father that the soldiers should not clean their guns with crushed bricks? Look when back in Russia they thought about the abrasive properties of ceramics and the right technologies for cleaning weapons!

Seriously, not so long ago, in remote places, the trunks were simply “spilled” with boiling water, then driven off with a ruff and wiped dry. But do not rush to accuse the ancestors of barbarism. The same operation is carried out for modern pneumatics for collective use in very neglected cases, when the barrel is so leaded that no chemistry and mechanical devices take it. Physics comes to the rescue: due to the difference in thermal expansion coefficients, lead flakes safely peel off steel.

I think that among the readers there are no enthusiasts of a gurgling kettle or, God forbid, an electric drill as a drive for a brush. And yet, how to properly clean a weapon and with what?

Professionals and amateurs: the difference in approaches

In order to avoid omissions, let's say right away that there are a lot of legends, myths and opinions in this field of knowledge. The most radical of them: cleaning weapons is harmful. It is, as a rule, adhered to by those who ruined the barrel or bolt group by wrong actions, for example, by the wrong choice of lubricant. Or - you will laugh - the owners of models with extremely difficult disassembly / assembly and access to the breech.

The author belongs to the group of "moderates", who believe that excessive passion for cleaning and lubrication, especially without a critical understanding of the essence of the processes, also does not lead to good. This is mainly due to long-standing experience, when the shooters had at their disposal kerosene (then super-detergent WD-40), alkaline composition and neutral oil. The weapons serviced with the help of these components have served and serve faithfully for many decades, failing for reasons not related to the chemistry used and the frequency of hygiene procedures. I note, however, that all this applies to serial domestic rifles, albeit high-class ones, as well as to civilian versions of the army riflemen - OP-SKS, "Tiger", numerous "Kalashoids".

With the appearance on our shelves of specialized chemistry, especially aerosol, everything has become even more simplified. For example, the same legendary Ballistol allows you, after a day full of shooting and rain, to simply wipe all the iron, pour it inside and out with this spray and not worry about anything else until the house, where you already do cleaning in a more comfortable environment.

And, finally, "maximalists", most often fans of high-precision shooting. People of this type practice thoroughness in everything. As a rule, they prefer a compact, but still a cleaning center to a table covered with newspapers. For example, such as in the photo, an extremely inexpensive "Portable Maintenance Center".

And it's hard to disagree with them. See how well thought out and comfortable it is.

When you read the recommendations of adherents of “high-precision”, you marvel at the perseverance and scrupulousness, a purely scientific approach to removing various types of pollution. Can you imagine what practical experience and surgical accuracy of movements one must have in order to remove copper plating on match barrels with the help of abrasive pastes!? In their arsenal of techniques, for example, the selection of chemicals for cleaning different sections of the chamber, methods that provide for special cleaning after EVERY shot, the use of substances that are neutral to some barrels, but literally dissolve the metal of others. In a word, if you have an ardent desire to become a real BR shooter, you should not engage in guerrilla warfare - go out of the forest to people and join a team of like-minded professionals. Moreover, there is no “benchrest” without regular competitions.

For the bulk of people, all this is somewhere on the other side of good and evil. Therefore, let's be guided by the well-known from mathematics condition "necessary and sufficient". Without dwelling on the basics of preliminary procedures, such as the need to unload and disassemble the weapon, prepare all the necessary accessories, etc., the entire cleaning process can be divided into three stages.

Stages of cleaning weapons

• pouring with an alkaline composition (solvent) everything and everything that came into contact or could come into contact during the shot with a primer, cartridge case, bullet and, of course, powder gases;
• proper cleaning;
• lubrication and preservation of weapons.

Start over.

For the vast majority of cases and non-exclusive weapons, the already mentioned Ballistol or the well-known Hoppes No. 9".

The first is extremely convenient to use, since it is made in the form of an aerosol, it successfully copes with all pollution, including lead and copper plating, while being absolutely safe. And not only for wood or plastic bed, but also for your hands. Moreover, according to the manufacturer and numerous users, it has a bactericidal and generally terribly beneficial effect on the skin. "Hoppes", on the contrary, is very toxic, so the author does not really like his relatively rare aerosol version. The dose can be taken even in the open air. He copes with his direct duties perfectly, perhaps better than Ballistol.

There are still a lot of modern drugs with a similar effect, there are much more effective ones, for example, Shooter's Choice formulations, but many of them are highly specialized. For example, they can only be used for stainless steel barrels. If you are the owner of such a not too massive weapon, carefully study the manufacturer's recommendations.

So, the composition we have chosen is applied to all places to be cleaned - the bore, the shutter, the mirror (at the smoothbore), the details of the gas outlet, the barrel outside - 5-6 centimeters from the cut. We leave the whole household to soak for 10-20 minutes.

Let's move on to cleaning. This is where we need the tools.

Toolkit closely related to weapon traits

Ramrod.

Somehow it has long been customary that for rifled weapons it should be solid, for smooth-bore weapons it doesn’t matter, but more often composite. The approach is correct, given the caliber: you never know what can happen in a long tube, the inner diameter of which is less than a centimeter, so the requirements for strength characteristics in the first case are increased.

The material of the ramrod is also different. Wood, brass are quite suitable for a smoothbore, only metal for a rifled one, always braided, although there are bending-resistant and at the same time relatively safe stainless steel products on sale. In no case do not use aluminum devices, the oxide covering them is not inferior to crushed brick in terms of abrasive properties.

Another prerequisite for rifled barrels: the ramrod itself must rotate freely on the bearing installed in the handle so that the cleaning devices, when reciprocating, go strictly along the grooves.

Actually, ideally, these options look something like this:

On the left is a ramrod for smoothbore calibers, two-section, length 86 cm, the classic SL visher nozzle is included. On the right is a ramrod for rifled weapons. 35 cal., 9 mm and above, one-section, with bearing, length 91 cm.

Visher and patches.

The chamber and muzzle cut are "sacred cows" and should be handled accordingly. Therefore, the movement of the ramrod with wiping material (patch) always goes in one direction - from the breech to the muzzle. The introduction itself must be extremely careful, and the contaminated patch must be removed from the visher after exiting the barrel. It is very convenient to do this with vishers of modern design. Compare: on the left is the classic type, familiar to almost all shooters, on the right - brass .22 / .223 cal

Agree, it is very convenient to prick a branded or home-made patch on the latter (a square or round piece of cotton fabric, matched to the caliber), which, at the exit from the barrel, will simply fall off and fall into a carefully substituted vessel.

It is clear that the reverse movement must be no less accurate so as not to damage the ribs of the rifling at the barrel cut, even with soft brass. This will lead to the loss of accuracy of any rifled weapon, including pneumatic ones.

Smooth-bore cut defects will also not add accuracy. And here, willy-nilly, you will have to use a traditional visher, into the slot of which a rag of a suitable size is threaded and loosely wound.

Cleaning guides.

Somewhat ambiguous devices, just serving to protect the chamber, bullet entry and cut the barrel of a rifled weapon.

In the photo guides.30 ABS3 and.30 C30.

Let's start with the second, to cut the trunk. The scope of its application is extremely narrow, mainly for some models, and all because, as we remember, the barrel is cleaned only from the treasury to the muzzle. There are rifles where the manufacturer, as if on purpose, did everything to make it difficult to access the breech. But even here it is better not to resort to technology turned 180 degrees.

The guides inserted instead of the shutter, according to reputable shooters, with the rarest exception, do not provide accurate centering of the ramrod, since they are made universal for a certain caliber. Meanwhile, each rifle has its own characteristics. In a word, it is easier to protect the USM from dripping reagents with a cloth, and center the ramrod by eye, the main thing is not to rush and not be nervous. Or thoughtfully, again slowly, pick up a guide strictly for your weapon.

Ershik.

Here, too, there are enough nuances. In principle, two things should be remembered: do not use soft polymer brushes (not to be confused with "powders"), generously sowing torn bristles everywhere, and steel ruffs for rifled barrels. Only rigid nylon and copper or brass. For a smoothbore, when removing lead and hard deposits, the use of steel mesh devices is quite acceptable.

In the photo: brass and hard nylon brushes under .30 and 12 gauge, as well as a powder puff, which serves both for lubrication and for removing excess oil.

There are also brushes for cleaning the chamber. As a rule, they come as part of cleaning kits, but you can also purchase them separately, even on the handle.

And one more thing: brushes are used only for dry use, otherwise they are immediately covered with abrasive particles and only aggravate the process of destruction of the barrel mirror.

"Wand-lifesaver".

You definitely can't do without this tool. In fact, this is a kind of miniature hybrid of a spatula and a toothpick, carved from wood. It is with them, sometimes with a wound rag, that you will clean the dirt from hidden places, which are enough in the weapon, or carefully remove the remnants of copper from the mirror of the end of the receiver (where the strikers are).

The weapon is "wet", we start cleaning

We wipe various parts, depending on the configuration, with a stick, sponge, rag. After the disappearance of contaminants, wipe dry, generously lubricate with neutral oil, wipe again and now lubricate, as they say, with a thin layer. We drip a little into the holes of the smoothbore strikers. It is clear that competition forces manufacturers to move and produce the widest range of solvents and oils. If you want to support them and do everything according to “feng shui”, you can purchase and apply lubricants, say, separately for the stem or shutter stops, or something else in the same vein. But, in general, even domestic neutral gun oils, the same Berkut, are quite efficient.

Blessed are the owners of the classic Fracture shotguns and other cyplaufs, as well as modern semi-autos. The rest is more difficult - you can’t unfasten the barrel, and the already mentioned branded cleaning center could be great here. The main rule: in the machine or just on the table, the barrel should look down so that all the muck does not flow into the mechanisms of the weapon.

So, we prick a patch on the visher (we wind a rag) and in one unhurried movement we drive the ramrod forward. We discard the contaminated patch, carefully remove the ramrod. We alternate patches with brushes (only on dry trunks). We clean the chamber with rotational movements, in no case trying to push a special brush into the bullet entrance. If necessary, we process the barrel with a cleaning compound again.

And so, until we achieve the result. Professionals carefully evaluate pollution, using specialized chemistry depending on their types.

For an ordinary shooter, all this is more interesting in theoretical terms. Or when changing ammunition. So that you can say: “This is dirty!” And don't contact him again.

Our task is simple: regardless of whether copper turns blue on the patches or matte remnants of the polyethylene of the sleeve are found, it is necessary to ensure that the cleaning material at the output does not differ from what was at the input. That's all. Depending on the degree of contamination, all procedures can take ten minutes or an hour.

Lubrication and preservation

Finally, the patches emerge pristine from the barrel. And then comes the turn of neutral oil. By and large, we remove not so much dirt as the remains of cleaning agents, including those from metal micropores. Suspicious traces will appear again on the patches. After they disappear, we apply a thin layer of neutral oil to the dry trunk with a lightly oiled patch, cloth, powder puff. Or a preservative composition - depending on your goals and objectives. For example, Rust Prevent Corrosion Inhibitor or Elite Hoppe's GO4.

It is highly desirable to repeat the second stage of cleaning (with neutral oil) in three or four days, a maximum of a week. This is how long, on average, the sweating of the remnants of contaminants from the deepest microcracks continues.

Once again I would like to repeat. With today's variety of guns, carefully read the manufacturer's recommendations if you have, say, a stainless or chromium-molybdenum barrel. And select cleaning compounds, especially aggressive ones, exclusively in accordance with them. Do not always trust opinions from the Internet, if you read carefully, they often contradict each other. In a word, be careful and careful.

Andrew L.
Cleaning weapons is not an idle issue for any shooter, whether it be a hunter, sportsman, sniper or just an amateur. At the same time, there are a great many recipes for "correct" cleaning, and this topic is an occasion for writing more and more new articles and heated debates. Despite the variety of existing methods and recommendations, it seems possible to highlight some general tips for cleaning weapons. In addition, with the gradual increase in popularity on the Russian market of both new imported high-precision rifled weapons and various chemical care products, the appearance of an article on methods for cleaning rifled barrels in the West seems to be very timely.

When firing from a rifle in the barrel as a result of a shot, both the combustion products of gunpowder and the cartridge primer (soot) and the particles of the bullet shell (copper plating) are deposited. It is immediately necessary to make a reservation that we will limit ourselves to considering, first of all, firing a bullet with a copper sheath and a non-corrosive primer from a non-chrome-plated barrel. Barrel cleaning for other options (steel-jacketed bullets, lead bullets, chrome-plated barrels, etc.) does not differ significantly from the considered option, although, of course, some differences cannot be forgotten.

It is advisable to clean the rifle after the end of the shooting, if possible without putting it off for too long. Despite the fact that modern Boxer primers do not emit corrosive products during the firing process, when firing Russian-made or army surplus cartridges, in the vast majority of cases you will encounter corrosive Berdan primers. In addition, experience shows that in good weather it is much more pleasant to spend an extra half an hour on the shooting range cleaning a rifle than doing it at home, often in a room poorly adapted for such work with insufficient ventilation.

Accessories

To clean the barrel of a rifle, it is advisable to acquire the following accessories:

A good ramrod, suitable for the caliber of the rifle. It is desirable that the ramrod be one-piece, with a plastic coating and a bearing in the handle. Dewey is considered the quality standard in the American sports shooting community, although there are analogues from other manufacturers.

Rice. 1. Various accessories and barrel cleaning chemicals

Visher, suitable for the caliber of the rifle (usually supplied with a ramrod).

Bronze brush according to the caliber of the rifle. As a rule, with proper regular care of the trunk, there is no need to use a brush. Moreover, cleaning chemicals can interact with the brush material itself, and the use of steel brushes in high quality barrels is highly undesirable.

Cotton flannel patches for cleaning the barrel (hereinafter referred to as "patches"). It is desirable that the size of the patches correspond to the caliber in such a way that when pushing the patch along the barrel, it passes under tension, that is, the force on the ramrod is felt, but not excessive.

Cleaning rod guide bushing suitable for the action of the rifle. When cleaning the barrel with patches, the bending of the ramrod can lead to unwanted contact of the ramrod with the surface of the chamber or bullet entry, which can have an extremely negative effect on the accuracy of the rifle. If possible, cleaning the rifle must be carried out from the breech - the quality of the muzzle cut significantly affects the accuracy of the battle, so any contact with the cut is highly undesirable. That is why, in addition to cleaning from the breech, it is recommended to push the patch along the barrel only in one direction, and be extremely careful when pulling the cleaning rod back into the barrel from the muzzle. In cases where the design of the rifle does not allow cleaning the barrel from the breech (some semi-automatic samples), it is strongly recommended to use a special cap to protect the muzzle from possible contact with the ramrod.

Carbon remover. Hoppe's No.9 Bore Cleaner (the choice of US Marine Corps reconnaissance snipers) has proven itself well, Kroil, Break-Free, Shooter's Choice are common from other brands.

Copper remover. These cleaners can be divided into two groups - weak alkaline (a typical example of Hoppe's Benchrest Copper Remover) and strong ammonia (like Sweet's 7.62). Means from the first group, although significantly weaker in terms of removing copper plating, are more gentle on the barrel itself than strong tools from the second. So, Sweet 7.62 is not recommended to be left in the barrel for longer than 15 minutes, while Hoppe's can be left in the barrel for several hours to combat strong copper plating.

Lodgement, slipway or machine for holding a rifle. When cleaning a rifle, it is necessary to firmly fix it in order to be able to push the ramrod with force. If the rifle is equipped with a bipod, it is enough to use them. It is desirable that the barrel of the rifle be slightly tilted forward when cleaning to drain the chemicals.

Rifle cleaning

The cleaning procedure begins with removing the bolt from the rifle (for bolt-action rifles), and installing a guide bush in its place. Often such bushings use a bolt retaining system or a bolt handle opening for rigid fixation in the bolt group. Sometimes the sleeve is fitted with a rubber gland to prevent chemicals from leaking from the rifle barrel into the chamber and action.

Rice. 3. The sleeve is inserted into the receiver and is held behind the hole for the author's handle

After the sleeve is securely installed in the chamber, you can proceed directly to cleaning the barrel. You should start with the removal of soot - the most easily cleaned component of pollution. To do this, it is necessary to moisten one patch in a cleaning agent, then put it on the visher and smoothly drive it through the bore. A dirty patch that has appeared from the muzzle is easiest to remove (each patch is used only once!), Substituting a garbage bucket under the muzzle - the patch will fall off the visher itself when the ramrod reverses. This procedure must be repeated several times, each time treating a new patch with a cleaning compound, until the patches come out clean from the barrel (or clear improvements in the quality of the outgoing patch stop).

Rice. 4. A clean patch is put on the visher and goes into the barrel through the sleeve from the breech

Now you can move on to removing the copper plating from the barrel. The procedure itself in this case is similar to cleaning from soot, but there are several differences. Of course, in this case, a copper remover is used. After running the first two or three patches, liberally moistened with an anti-copper agent, you can stop for a few minutes to give the solution time to oxidize the copper deposits. The next time the treated patch is run down the barrel, it will show the characteristic blue-green traces of copper oxides. This procedure must also be repeated until the patches come out of the barrel clean.

Rice. 5. At the exit from the barrel, a patch with traces of soot is removed from the ramrod during the reverse stroke

If it is not possible to completely get rid of the copper in the barrel, there are several options for further action. The simplest is to treat the barrel with a cleaning agent and leave it to "soak" for 12-24 hours (it is advisable to place the rifle with the barrel down, leaning on a rag that will absorb the solution flowing from the barrel). After such chemical treatment, copper is removed from the barrel much easier. The second option is to use stronger ammonia-based products (never leave it in the barrel longer than prescribed by the manufacturer!). The procedure for their use does not differ from that described above for weaker alkaline. And finally, you can try to use a brush to remove copper from the barrel (by no means steel!). When using a brush, it is recommended to treat it with a cleaning agent, and then make about 10 reciprocating movements through the sleeve, smoothly running the brush along the entire length of the barrel. It is necessary to be extremely careful and smooth when the brush enters back into the barrel from the side of the muzzle - the quality of the cut is crucial for the accuracy of the rifle.

Rice. 6. Some sleeves allow you to wet the patch already on the ramrod through a special hole in the sleeve - in this case, the potent Sweet "s 7.62 is used

After finishing the cleaning procedure, it is necessary to drive a dry patch through the barrel. If you do not find traces of copper on it (very weak traces) - the cleaning of the barrel is finished. Next, you need to drive a few more untreated patches through the barrel until they come out completely dry, and if the rifle is to be stored for a long time, drive one or two patches with preservative lubricant through the barrel (in this variant, the lubricant must be removed before firing with two or three dry patches ).

There are frequent cases when it is not possible to completely clean the barrel of a rifle from copper using the methods described above. This usually happens with rifles that have been improperly or irregularly maintained, or rifles with rough barrels. In such a case, you can try the barrel break-in procedure described below. There are examples when running-in improved the characteristics of even barrels with significant pre-shotting. There is also a more radical way to clean the barrel - using abrasive products, such as J-B Cleaner, however, opinions on the benefits and harms of using such products differ greatly, and therefore it is not possible to unambiguously recommend them for use. If no cleaning really helps strong copper plating, there is a method of electrochemical cleaning, however, its use at home is extremely difficult and therefore this method is beyond the scope of this article.

Barrel break-in

The inner surface of the barrel of almost any new rifle is not perfect (the exception is hand-polished piece barrels) and has pores and bumps left as a natural result of the barrel manufacturing process. When shooting, these pores are gradually smoothed out, but at the same time they are filled with copper from the shell of the bullets, which leads to a strong increase in the rate of accumulation of copper deposits - as a result, the number of shots fired from a rifle without loss of accuracy due to copper plating will be small, and the barrel will be completely cleared of copper is often simply impossible.

In order to avoid filling the pores and microroughnesses of the barrel with copper, it is recommended to perform the barrel break-in procedure according to the following algorithm.

From a new rifle, fire one shot, after which the barrel must be cleaned of copper according to the cleaning procedure described above. This process (cleaning after each shot) must be repeated several times until the copper plating after the shot is clearly reduced.

Next, you need to move on to shooting in series of several (in different sources, the specific figure varies from 2 to 5) shots, after each of the series it is again necessary to clean the barrel from copper deposits. The number of runs should also be determined by the apparent reduction in copper plating after a run.

Then you need to lengthen the series to 10-20 shots between cleanings, and after several such series, your rifle barrel will be broken in.

An exact technical description of the processes occurring in the barrel during the running-in of a rifle cannot be found in the literature, however, apparently, the running-in process is a gradual polishing of the barrel by shooting while removing copper from the pores and irregularities. This interpretation explains both the improvement in the quality of a new barrel after running-in, and the benefit of running-in already fired, but not run-in, barrels.

Individual approach

Rice. 7. Cleaning a rifle at home

There are many legends, myths and beliefs associated with barrel cleaning procedures. Someone considers it unacceptable to use coated ramrods, due to the deposition of abrasive combustion products on this coating, scratching the barrel when the ramrod passes (to the question, "Why will these abrasives scratch a steel barrel, and not a softer plastic coating?", Get an answer usually fails). someone considers it unacceptable to use strong agents in stainless steel barrels; someone pushes the ramrod along the barrel only 5-10 cm, and considers the feed of the ramrod in one smooth movement to be absolutely unacceptable; The list can be continued almost indefinitely. An article recently appeared in one of the American weapons publications in which the author deliberately subjected his rifle to numerous cleanings in the worst possible way - without a bushing with a composite aluminum ramrod with a steel brush and a terrible boiler of chemicals - and made sure in practice that after such a "mockery" the accuracy of the battle his rifle has not deteriorated. All these facts speak only about one thing - cleaning a rifle, in addition to practical training, is also a ritual, which for each shooter will certainly be his own, different from all others. In this case, all of the above are just some general considerations, in accordance with which it is possible to design the process of cleaning a rifle in such a way that it brings both benefit to the barrel and satisfaction to the shooter himself.

Leaving aside the arguments about the correctness of cleaning the rifled barrel, its necessity in general and the quality of the approach to this process, I will simply describe the entire cleaning process as I do it myself. Surely this article will be a good help for novice users of rifled weapons, perhaps experienced shooters will find some new and interesting points for themselves. Of course, there are critics who have a diametrically opposed opinion on the need for high-quality cleaning of a rifled barrel and manage the usual "spindle" to maintain their carbine.

Of course, immediately at the beginning of the process, 3 main questions arise:

1. What do we clean?

2. How do we clean?

3. Why do we clean?

So what are we cleaning?

The firing process leaves behind carbon compounds and other residues of combustion of the capsule composition and gunpowder in the form of soot, traces of bullet shells smeared with a thin film, all this is superimposed layer by layer, forming an aggressive layer cake. The more shots fired, the more layers of the pie we get. Of course, depending on the quality of the rifled barrel, laid down by the manufacturer, and whether or not the new barrel was prepared for operation (polishing, firing), the amount of contamination can vary greatly. Often in a barrel that has not been prepared for operation, after a couple of shots there is more dirt than in a prepared barrel after five or six series. But in any case, we get multi-layered, aggressive contamination, which must be completely removed from the barrel.

What do we clean?

This is a very important question! When buying an expensive rifled carbine, do not spare money for good chemistry, high-quality tools and accessories (ramrods, ruffs, vishers, inserts). Gone are the days when gun shops stocked two types of oil for gun maintenance: alkaline and neutral. Today you will find a wide range of chemicals, consumables and tools for high-quality care of your weapons, and qualified sellers will always prompt and help you choose the necessary materials.

My rifle maintenance kit.

Let's start with the main cleaning tool - a ramrod. Ramrod must necessarily correspond to the caliber of your barrel, be solid (not prefabricated) and sufficiently rigid in order to avoid deflection in the bore, and, accordingly, the ramrod friction against the rifling fields, have a protective coating that excludes direct contact of the ramrod steel rod with the inner surface of the barrel. Also, another important condition for a high-quality ramrod is the presence of bearings in the handle, which allow the ramrod rod to rotate freely and easily when the patch or ruff moves along the grooves of the barrel.

In my use, I had several ramrods from different manufacturers, I settled on ramrods and interchangeable nozzles for them from an American manufacturer Dewey. Of course, professional athletes also use more expensive ramrods, and even individual “custom” versions, but a ramrod from the specified manufacturer will be quite sufficient for both an ordinary hunter and a shooter who spends a lot of time at the shooting range.

Various nozzles are attached to the ramrod:

Ruffs : There should be several for the required caliber: nylon, brass, aluminum-based nylon (for application and cleaning with solvents). Never use steel brushes when cleaning your weapons.

Vishera : there should be several for different types of patches and ways of using.

Pugs: for applying preservative oil.

Ruffs and patch holders made of aluminum for solvents.

Cleaning insert .

To clean the Blaser barrel, which is removed from the stock and has free access to the breech, I do not use the insert, it is easy for me to control the position of the ramrod relative to the barrel geometry even without the insert. In all other cases, I recommend using an insert, it will allow you not to be afraid for the contact of the ramrod with the bullet entry during manipulations. With an insert, it is convenient to apply various chemicals to ruffs and patches through the solvent port, avoiding getting into the internal mechanisms of the weapon and on its bed. In general, the benefits of insertion abound.

Patches.

I use different ones. I definitely recommend felt patches-tampons like VFG or their domestic counterparts. They are produced for all kinds of calibers, they are very convenient for cleaning carbon deposits, applying chemicals, polishing the barrel with pastes. In general, having tried it once, I can’t imagine my cleaning kit without them. Quite good and very cheap are patches made from pressed cotton pads from women's cosmetic toilet items. Having spent quite a bit of time, you can choose the required size for your caliber and cut any amount with scissors. Such patches are well suited for both removing carbon deposits and for finishing wiping with preservative oil. I also use standard cotton patches, which are mainly used to control copper removal. I pass with such a patch along the barrel after soaking with a solvent, on the wide surface of the patch the amount of oxidized copper is well reflected in the form of blue.

Chemistry.

Several types are required, each of which is intended for a specific operation.

I use:

Powder soot solvents: WD-40 and penetrating agent Kano Kroil.

More powerful solvents (which also remove copper): HoppeS-9 and Eliminator.

Copper solvents: SweetS-7.62, Robla Solo Mil.

Cleaning and polishing pastes (required for polishing a new barrel and when the barrel is heavily soiled): J-B pastes.

Neutral Preservative Compounds: Ballistol Silicone Grease.

Weapon machine .

I use homemade powerful, hard. It was possible to build this device, which allows both cleaning any weapon in assembled or disassembled form, and using it as a sighting machine.

The HandMade machine was designed for shooting rifled weapons, it turned out to be universal.

The machine allows you to clean weapons, as in the assembled state (most bolt-on carbines)

So in disassembled, for example, the barrel of the Blaser carbine or the barrels of smoothbore weapons.

In no case do I force everyone to go my way, it will be enough to have a machine of such a plan that is available in weapons stores in various configurations.

Finally, we come to the third question. Why do we clean?

As I wrote above, in the process of a shot, and even more so several, a layer cake of aggressive compositions appears on the surface of the barrel. The thing is that the products of combustion of gunpowder and capsule composition have an acidic environment, which in turn adversely affects the surface of the barrel, causing corrosion. With high-quality cleaning using all the materials, tools and chemistry listed above, we disassemble (clean) layer by layer (clean off) this whole cake and our goal is to disassemble the cake completely, freeing the barrel metal from the aggressive components left by the shooting.

Well, now, step by step, leaving all the theoretical bookmarks above, we will consider the whole process of cleaning a rifled barrel.

Let's clean the trunk Blaser caliber 243Win. 15 shots were fired from the barrel with a cartridge with a bullet Lapua Scener.

It is convenient for me to clean the Blaser barrel separated from the stock and with the optical sight removed.

I clamp the barrel at a slight angle down with the muzzle to drain the chemistry. With a fairly large amount of WD-40, I soak the entire inner surface of the trunk, also passing several times to distribute the solvent with a nylon ruff, leave it for 10-12 minutes.

We wind the visher and patch on the ramrod, we pass along the trunk until the patch comes out of the trunk. The first couple of patches are the dirtiest, and it is undesirable to return the dirt and rub it along the trunk. We make several reciprocating movements with the rest of the patches, the label from the electrical tape on the axis of the ramrod serves as a limitation until the patch exits the barrel.

To control the position of the patch inside the barrel, a note on the ramrod.

We clean until the outgoing patches have their original white appearance, in my case it turned out 10 patches for the first stage of cleaning.

Patches after the first stage of cleaning.

At this point, many opponents of the “capital cleaning shamanism” would have completed the whole process, because the last patch was almost snow-white, which means, in their opinion, the barrel is clean.

Well, we will continue. Having removed the soot, and even then not all, because it also remained under the layers of copper, we will begin to soak the pollution with the help of a penetrating composition Kano Kroil.

I think this is the best tool for cleaning weapons today. With high penetrating power, Kroil swells the formed mud film, which contributes to its further removal with patches.

Apply Kroil with the help of a brass ruff, passing over the entire inner surface with several movements until the ruff completely exits the muzzle. In no case should you make a reverse movement with a ramrod with a brass brush without pushing it out of the barrel completely, otherwise the brush antennae break and the brush does not live long. Just as in the first stage, we leave the barrel alone for soaking for 10-12 minutes. After the time has passed, the visher and clean patches are again, and what we see: it seems that they have already cleaned the barrel until the patches are snow-white, but after a little soaking with Kroil, the first patch is no different from the first patch of a dirty barrel. At the second stage, 8 patches were spent before the release of white.

Patches after the second stage of cleaning.

For soaking with solvents, we use an aluminum patch holder.

This tool dissolves carbon deposits well and actively oxidizes the settled copper. We pass a couple of times with a moistened patch along the trunk and leave it now for 15-20 minutes for the active work of the composition with pollution. Now, after the time has elapsed, on a patch driven through the barrel, we see the remains of powder deposits and a layer of copper starting to oxidize after a layer of deposits (you can see a slight blue on a dirty patch). After the third soak, 3 patches were enough to clean, due to the fact that the bulk of the dirt had already been removed.

When soaking with solvents, it is imperative to prevent the composition from leaking onto the outer surface of the barrel, since with prolonged exposure, the solvent eats bluing.

Then we clean with felt patches soaked in HoppeS-9. The felt patch goes more tightly along the barrel, cleaning the rifling and corners of the combat edges with high quality. With each new patch dipped in HoppeS-9, I make up to 10 reciprocating movements over the entire surface of the barrel, without the patch going beyond the muzzle. It took 8 patches or 80 passes down the barrel before the white patch came out. That's how much dirt still remained in the seemingly already clean trunk.

Patches after cleaning with HoppeS-9 solvent.

Once every 50-60 shots, I additionally clean the barrel with a "fine abrasive" paste J-B blue. The paste, due to its abrasiveness, helps to clean off carbon deposits that are pressed into the metal of the barrel and cannot be cleaned with solvents. You should not abuse cleaning with pastes, especially on an already polished and previously run-in barrel, but 10-15 passes of a felt patch lubricated with paste, with a frequency of 50-60 shots, will not damage the barrel. And here we again see the dirt removed by the patches after the paste passes.

After the appearance of a clean patch, we can confidently say that we cleaned the trunk, only we did not clean it from all the components of the layer cake, and it is easy to check this. We drive a clean patch into the barrel not reaching the muzzle of 0.5-1 cm and into the light, moving it to the table lamp, we see copper layers in the margins and in the rifling.

Traces of copper on the margins and in the rifling.

To remove copper, use Eliminator or Robla Solo Mil, for which I abundantly moisten the felt patch in the indicated solvent, make several passes along the trunk and leave it for 15-20 minutes for the drug to act.

After the time has passed, I drive a cotton patch, which clearly shows the amount of copper removed from the barrel, depending on the number of shots, it takes from 1 to 5 soaks until the copper is completely removed.

Cotton patches with traces of copper oxide.

I carry out the control soaking with the composition that is most aggressive to copper. SweetS-7.62. I do not recommend leaving it in the barrel for more than 15 minutes. Last soak with SweetS-7.62 enough to completely remove copper from the barrel.

Now, in order to remove the remnants of aggressive solvents from the bore, we again use a penetrating Kano Kroil. Having abundantly moistened several times, we pass with a patch, and then with another dry patch.

We clean the chamber with reciprocating, circular motions, use a short ramrod with a suitable ruff and a flannel cloth wound around it.

Everything, the barrel is cleaned “to zero”, that is, perfectly clean. Depending on whether I have to use a carbine in the near future or not, I leave the barrel dry or for long-term storage I go through a pug with preservative oil Ballistol.

Patches after all stages of cleaning.

It took quite a bit of consumables and a fairly small amount of time to clean the barrel after 15 shots. Of course, the main time interval is spent on soaking with solvents and, as a rule, there are other activities during these intervals.

I would also like to warn novice users of rifled weapons, this cleaning “to zero” with such a small consumption of materials and time becomes possible only after proper preparation of the barrel for operation, that is, the specified Blaser barrel went through a full cycle before the start of operation.

We clean the shutter.

We wipe the outer surface of the barrel with preservative oil.

We collect. The carbine is ready for further operation.

I would also like to add about the need to have such a small set for people traveling with their weapons. Whether it's long hunts or rafting. Form such a kit for yourself and you can always service your weapon outside the home.

My travel set for 20 and 308 caliber combo guns.

Let your carbine serve you for a long time and please you with excellent results both in target shooting and in real hunting.

Alexey Suvorov

Remember, Leskovsky Lefty asked me to tell the tsar-father that the soldiers should not clean their guns with crushed bricks? Look when back in Russia they thought about the abrasive properties of ceramics and the right technologies for cleaning weapons!
Seriously, not so long ago, in remote places, the trunks were simply “spilled” with boiling water, then driven off with a ruff and wiped dry. But do not rush to accuse the ancestors of barbarism. The same operation is carried out for modern pneumatics for collective use in very neglected cases, when the barrel is so leaded that no chemistry and mechanical devices take it. Physics comes to the rescue: due to the difference in thermal expansion coefficients, lead flakes safely peel off steel.
I think that among the readers there are no enthusiasts of a gurgling kettle or, God forbid, an electric drill as a drive for a brush.

How to properly clean a weapon

In order to avoid omissions, let's say right away that there are a lot of legends, myths and opinions in this field of knowledge. The most radical of them: cleaning weapons is harmful. It is, as a rule, adhered to by those who ruined the barrel or bolt group by wrong actions, for example, by the wrong choice of lubricant. Or - you will laugh - the owners of models with extremely difficult disassembly / assembly and access to the breech.
The author belongs to the group of “moderates”, who believe that an excessive passion for cleaning and lubricating, especially without a critical understanding of the essence of the processes, also does not lead to good. This is mainly due to long-standing experience, when kerosene was at the disposal of the shooters (then spray WD-40), alkaline composition and neutral oil. The weapons serviced with the help of these components have served and serve faithfully for many decades, failing for reasons not related to the chemistry used and the frequency of hygiene procedures. I note, however, that all this applies to serial domestic rifles, albeit high-class ones, as well as to civilian versions of the army riflemen - OP-SKS, « Tiger", numerous " kalashoids».
With the appearance on our shelves of specialized chemistry, especially aerosol, everything has become even more simplified. Let's say the same legendary " Ballistol” allows you to simply wipe all the iron after a day full of shooting and rain, pour it inside and out with this spray and don’t worry about anything else until the house, where you can already do cleaning in a more comfortable environment.
And, finally, "maximalists", most often fans of high-precision shooting. People of this type practice thoroughness in everything. As a rule, they prefer a compact, but still a cleaning center to a table covered with newspapers. For example, such as in the photo, extremely inexpensive Portable Maintenance Center.

And it's hard to disagree with them. See how well thought out and comfortable it is.
When you read the recommendations of adherents of “high-precision”, you marvel at the perseverance and scrupulousness, a purely scientific approach to removing various types of pollution. Can you imagine what practical experience and surgical accuracy of movements one must have in order to remove copper plating on match barrels with the help of abrasive pastes!? In their arsenal of techniques, for example, the selection of chemicals for cleaning different parts of the chamber, methods that provide for special cleaning after each shot, the use of substances that are neutral to some barrels, but literally dissolve the metal of others. In a word, if there is an ardent desire to become a real shooter " Benchrest", you should not engage in partisanism - go out of the forest to people and join a team of like-minded professionals. Especially since" Benchrest " without regular competition does not happen.
For the bulk of people, all this is somewhere on the other side of good and evil. Therefore, let's be guided by the well-known from mathematics condition "necessary and sufficient". Without dwelling on the basics of preliminary procedures, such as the need to unload and disassemble a weapon, prepare all the necessary accessories, etc.

The main steps in cleaning weapons

• pouring with an alkaline composition (solvent) everything and everything that came into contact or could come into contact during the shot with a primer, cartridge case, bullet and, of course, powder gases;
• proper cleaning;
• weapon lubrication.

For the vast majority of cases and non-exclusive weapons, the already mentioned Ballistol or the well-known " Hoppes No. 9».

The first is extremely convenient to use, since it is made in the form of an aerosol, it successfully copes with all pollution, including lead and copper plating, while being absolutely safe. And not only for wood or plastic bed, but also for your hands. Moreover, according to the manufacturer and numerous users, it has a bactericidal and generally terribly beneficial effect on the skin. "Hoppes", on the contrary, is very toxic, so the author does not really like his relatively rare aerosol version. The dose can be taken even in the open air. He copes with his direct duties perfectly, perhaps better than Ballistol.
There is still a mass of modern drugs of similar action, there are much more effective, for example, formulations Shooter's Choice, but many of them are highly specialized. For example, they can only be used for stainless steel barrels. If you are the owner of such a not too massive weapon, carefully study the manufacturer's recommendations.
So, the composition we have chosen is applied to all places to be cleaned - the bore, the shutter, the mirror (at the smoothbore), the details of the gas outlet, the barrel outside - 5-6 centimeters from the cut. We leave the whole household to soak for 10-20 minutes.

Weapon cleaning

Here we already need a toolkit that is closely related to the features of the weapon. Let's analyze everything in detail.

1.Cramrod

Somehow it has long been customary that for rifled weapons it should be one-piece, for smooth-bore weapons it doesn’t matter, but more often composite. The approach is correct, given the caliber: you never know what can happen in a long tube, the inner diameter of which is less than a centimeter, so the requirements for strength characteristics in the first case are increased.
The material of the ramrod is also different. Wood, brass are quite suitable for a smoothbore, only metal for a rifled one, always braided, although there are bending-resistant and at the same time relatively safe stainless steel products on sale. In no case do not use aluminum devices, the oxide covering them is not inferior to crushed brick in terms of abrasive properties.
Another prerequisite for rifled barrels: the ramrod itself must rotate freely on the bearing installed in the handle so that the cleaning devices, when reciprocating, go strictly along the grooves.

Actually, ideally, these options look something like this:

On the left, a ramrod for smoothbore calibers, two-section, length 86 cm, comes with a classic visor attachment SL. On the right is a ramrod for rifled weapons. 35 cal., 9 mm and above, one-section, with bearing, length 91 cm.

2.Visher and patches

The chamber and muzzle cut are "sacred cows" and should be handled accordingly. Therefore, the movement of the ramrod with wiping material (patch) always goes in one direction - from the breech to the muzzle. The introduction itself must be extremely careful, and the contaminated patch must be removed from the visher after exiting the barrel. It is very convenient to do this with vishers of modern design.">

Compare: on the left is the classic type, familiar to almost all shooters, on the right - brass .22 / .223 cal

Agree, it is very convenient to prick a branded or home-made patch on the latter (a square or round piece of cotton fabric, matched to the caliber), which, at the exit from the barrel, will simply fall off and fall into a carefully substituted vessel.

It is clear that the reverse movement must be no less accurate so as not to damage the ribs of the rifling at the barrel cut, even with soft brass. This will lead to the loss of accuracy of any rifled weapon, including pneumatic ones.
Smooth-bore cut defects will also not add accuracy. And here, willy-nilly, you will have to use a traditional visher, into the slot of which a rag of a suitable size is threaded and loosely wound.

Somewhat ambiguous devices, just serving to protect the chamber, bullet entry and cut the barrel of a rifled weapon.

In the photo guides.30 ABS3 and.30 C30.
Let's start with the second, to cut the trunk. The scope of its application is extremely narrow, mainly for some models, and all because, as we remember, the barrel is cleaned only from the treasury to the muzzle. There are rifles where the manufacturer, as if on purpose, did everything to make it difficult to access the breech. But even here it is better not to resort to technology turned 180 degrees.

The guides inserted instead of the shutter, according to reputable shooters, with the rarest exception, do not provide accurate centering of the ramrod, since they are made universal for a certain caliber. Meanwhile, each rifle has its own characteristics. In a word, it is easier to protect the USM from dripping reagents with a cloth, and center the ramrod by eye, the main thing is not to rush and not be nervous. Or thoughtfully, again slowly, pick up a guide strictly for your weapon.

4. Brush

Here, too, there are enough nuances. In principle, two things should be remembered: do not use soft polymer brushes (not to be confused with "powders"), generously sowing torn bristles everywhere, and steel ruffs for rifled barrels. Only rigid nylon and copper or brass. For a smoothbore, when removing lead and hard deposits, the use of steel mesh devices is quite acceptable.


In the photo: brass and hard nylon brushes under .30 and 12 gauge, as well as a powder puff, which serves both for lubrication and for removing excess oil.
There are also brushes for cleaning the chamber. As a rule, they come as part of cleaning kits, but you can also purchase them separately, even on the handle.

And one more important rule: brushes are used only when dry, otherwise they are immediately covered with abrasive particles and only aggravate the process of destruction of the barrel mirror.

5. Lifesaver

You definitely can't do without this tool. In fact, this is a kind of miniature hybrid of a spatula and a toothpick, carved from wood. It is with them, sometimes with a wound rag, that you will clean the dirt from hidden places, which are enough in the weapon, or carefully remove the remnants of copper from the mirror of the end of the receiver (where the strikers are).

The final stage of cleaning weapons

We wipe various parts, depending on the configuration, with a stick, sponge, rag. After the disappearance of contaminants, wipe dry, generously lubricate with neutral oil, wipe again and now lubricate, as they say, with a thin layer. We drip a little into the holes of the smoothbore strikers. It is clear that competition forces manufacturers to move and produce the widest range of solvents and oils. If you want to support them and do everything according to “feng shui”, you can purchase and apply lubricants, say, separately for the stem or shutter stops, or something else in the same vein. But, in general, even domestic neutral gun oils, the same " Golden eagle' are quite functional.

Blessed are the owners of the classic Fracture shotguns and other cyplaufs, as well as modern semi-autos. It’s more difficult for the rest - you can’t unfasten the barrel, and the already mentioned branded cleaning center could be great here. The main rule: in the machine or just on the table, the barrel should look down so that all the muck does not flow into the mechanisms of the weapon.
So, we prick a patch on the visher (we wind a rag) and in one unhurried movement we drive the ramrod forward. We discard the contaminated patch, carefully remove the ramrod. We alternate patches with brushes (only on dry trunks). We clean the chamber with rotational movements, in no case trying to push a special brush into the bullet entrance. If necessary, we process the barrel with a cleaning compound again.
And so, until we achieve the result. Professionals carefully evaluate pollution, using specialized chemistry depending on their types.


For an ordinary shooter, all this is more interesting in theoretical terms. Or when changing ammunition. So that you can say: “This is dirty!” And don't contact him again.
Our task is simple: regardless of whether copper turns blue on the patches or matte remnants of the polyethylene of the sleeve are found, it is necessary to ensure that the cleaning material at the output does not differ from what was at the input. That's all. Depending on the degree of contamination, all procedures can take ten minutes or an hour.
Finally, the patches emerge pristine from the barrel. And then comes the turn of neutral oil. By and large, we remove not so much dirt as the remains of cleaning agents, including those from metal micropores. Suspicious traces will appear again on the patches. After they disappear, we apply a thin layer of neutral oil to the dry trunk with a lightly oiled patch, cloth, powder puff. Or a preservative composition - depending on your goals and objectives. For example, Rust Prevent Corrosion Inhibitor or Elite Hoppe's GO4.

It is highly desirable to repeat the second stage of cleaning (with neutral oil) in three to four days, a maximum of a week. This is how long, on average, the sweating of the remnants of contaminants from the deepest microcracks continues.

Once again I would like to repeat. With a modern variety of weapons, carefully read the manufacturer's recommendations if you have, say, a stainless or chromo-molybdenum barrel. And select cleaning compounds, especially aggressive ones, exclusively in accordance with them. Do not always trust opinions from the Internet, if you read carefully, they often contradict each other. In a word, be careful and careful.

Wishing you a great hunt

Saltsov Igor

Gun barrel cleaner made in the form of a visher, which is a tip with a diameter of the working part, consistent with the caliber of the barrel, with an end section (2) for placement on a ramrod, while the tip is a piston (3) made of an elastically deformable material, rigidly connected to a metal rod (1) passing along the axial line, the piston is made in the form of a body of revolution with annular grooves (4) along the generatrix. The technical result is the expansion of the range of devices for cleaning the barrels of weapons, providing effective cleaning with minimal labor costs. 1 n.p. f-ly, 1 z.p. f-ly, 1 drawing

The claimed utility model relates to accessories for cleaning gun bores and can be used to clean gun barrels of smooth-bore and rifled weapons from soot, soot, and unburned powder particles.

Known machine for cleaning the bore of small arms with brushes mounted on a rotating eccentric shaft mounted on a progressively moving frame in the direction of the bore, providing movement of the ramrods to the full length of the barrel (USSR Author's certificate 119101, 1958).

Bronze and nylon brushes, which are mounted on ramrods, are widely used for manual cleaning of the gun barrel from carbon deposits to this day.

It is also known a device for cleaning the barrel of a weapon, containing a rod with a replaceable nozzle, the rod is connected to the piston of the pneumatic cylinder, the cavity of which communicates with a source of compressed air through the control equipment and a controlled spool, while the cover of the pneumatic cylinder with a hole for the rod is connected to a centering clamping device for connection with the inflatable part of the barrel by fastening with side windows made on it for access to a replaceable nozzle when replacing it (Patent RU 2107877, 1998).

Known devices provide automated cleaning of weapon barrels, i. e. can be used on an industrial scale and are not used for cleaning personal weapons. To date, various bronze and nylon brushes, which are installed on ramrods, as well as powder puffs, etc., are widely used to manually clean the barrel of a personal weapon from soot. tips.

A device for cleaning the inner surface of a gun barrel is known, including a fabric sleeve having a first end, a second end and a wall; and a brush placed inside said sleeve, wherein the bristles of said brush penetrate said wall of said sleeve. The device may be provided with a flexible cord attached to the specified fabric sleeve for pulling the cleaning device through the bore. (Utility model patent RU 99136, 2010).

The well-known set with a flexible snake, oil and solvent is applicable for cleaning personal weapons, however, it is usually used as an auxiliary cleaning method in addition to cleaning the barrel of a weapon with a ramrod, laborious, not convenient enough.

Closest to the proposed device is Yu.N. Lysakovsky, which is a threaded brass tip with a diameter of the working part, consistent with the caliber of the barrels for winding rags (patch), equipped with an end section equipped with a thread for screwing onto a ramrod and a hole for a pin for unscrewing the visher (see "Handbook of a hunter-athlete ", edited by Prof. P. A. Manteifel, Publishing house "Physical culture and sport", Moscow, Volume 1 section "Care and preservation of hunting weapons", 1955, and "Encyclopedia of hunting weapons". DELTA-MM Corp, 2002 ). Vishers are used as ramrod tips to remove carbon deposits and oil residue from the walls of the bore.

Known tips require a laborious process of cleaning the bore by repeatedly moving the ramrod from the breech to the muzzle of the barrel. At the same time, with each pass of the ramrod, the patches fixed on the vishere must be changed to new ones, and the used ones are discarded. Moreover, the brass tip does not deform, and the smoothbore weapon has a slight narrowing in the muzzle. This creates additional difficulties in using the well-known visher. In addition, patches, ruffs and brushes are prone to clogging with solid particles.

The task to be solved by the claimed utility model is the expansion of the arsenal of devices for cleaning the bore of a weapon.

EFFECT: performing the function of cleaning the bore of a weapon with increased efficiency.

The problem is solved by the fact that the inventive device for cleaning the barrel of a weapon is made in the form of a visher, which is a tip with a diameter of the working part, consistent with the caliber of the barrel, with an end section for placement on a ramrod, while the tip is a piston made of elastically deformable material, rigidly connected to a metal rod passing along the axial line, the piston is made in the form of a body of revolution with annular grooves along the generatrix.

The claimed device differs from the known one in that the body of the visher is made of an elastically deformable material, which can be used as elastic polymers, for example, vulcanized isoprene rubber (rubber), silicone, nylon, etc. materials.

The material of the metal rod is bronze or brass or stainless steel or similar metals and alloys.

The end section of the metal rod, intended for mounting on the ramrod, can be made with a thread, a flange connection and other similar known detachable connections.

The head section of the visher, opposite the end section, intended for nozzles on the ramrod, is made soft (elastically deformable), allowing the choke zone (choke) to pass.

The working part is made of elastically deformable material, made in the form of a piston with annular grooves, allows for effective finishing cleaning of the bore of the weapon from the breech to the muzzle in one pass, providing a snug fit to the walls of the bore both in the breech and in the muzzle. Existing soot and other removed residues are pushed out of the barrel bore during translational movement due to the tight fit to the barrel walls of the elastic surface of the head and annular sections of the piston. A snug fit is ensured by matching the piston diameter with the barrel caliber and elastically deformable piston material. The head part of the piston and several annular sections of the working surface of the piston, formed by the annular grooves, provide in one pass the same effect that is provided with multiple passes of the known visors. At the same time, not only large particles of soot are removed at the same time, but also small particles, including rust, as well as residues of cleaning agents, copper plating and lead particles. When using known devices (brushes, brushes, visers with rags, etc. devices), carbon deposits are removed from the barrel channel in stages, remaining in the channel, including due to shedding from the villi of working surfaces. This requires repeating the cleaning operations many times with the replacement of brushes, ruffs and patches with new ones. Unlike the well-known, the claimed device allows for effective cleaning of the barrel channel from carbon deposits with minimal labor costs, tk. the working surfaces are not only the piston head, but also the ribs of its annular sections. In addition, the elastic material of the piston cannot cause damage to the inner surface of the bore. The foregoing allows us to conclude that the claimed device provides the claimed technical result, which is in a direct causal relationship with the claimed set of essential features.

The claimed device is illustrated in Fig. 1, which shows a general sectional view.

The figure shows a visher having a central rod 1 with an end section 2 intended for nozzles on a ramrod (not shown). The body of the piston 3, made of elastically deformable material, which is rubber, is provided with end grooves 4 and is rigidly connected to the central rod 1.

The inventive device is used as follows. The end part 2 of the visher is put on the ramrod and fixed. First, the barrel channel of the gun is treated with cleaning agents. To do this, a patch moistened with a cleaning agent is put on the piston 3 of the inventive visher. After use, the patch is removed from piston 3 and discarded. The operation of treatment with cleaning agents is carried out once or repeatedly, depending on the cleaning schedule. Next, the inventive visher (without a patch) is inserted with its head into the bore from the side of the breech of the gun, slowly pushing it with a ramrod to the muzzle. The central metal rod 1 provides the necessary rigidity, and the head part of the elastically deformable body of the piston 3, in close contact with the inner surface of the barrel bore, provides mechanical cleaning from carbon deposits, cleaning agent residues and other removable residues, pushing the removable residues separated from the walls towards the exit from the muzzle of the barrel. Particles of residues to be removed that did not separate during the passage of the head of the piston 3 sequentially contact the ribs of the annular parts of the piston body, accumulate in the annular grooves 4, and are pushed out of the bore during a single pass of the visher.

The proposed device allows you to expand the range of devices for cleaning the barrels of weapons, provides effective cleaning with minimal labor costs.

1. Device for cleaning the barrel of a weapon in the form of a visher, representing a tip with a diameter of the working part, consistent with the caliber of the barrel, with an end section for fixation on a ramrod, characterized in that the tip is a piston made of an elastically deformable material, rigidly connected to a metal rod passing along the axial line, the piston is made in the form of a body of revolution with annular grooves along the generatrix.

2. Device according to claim 1, characterized in that elastic polymers are used as elastically deformable material.