Background lighting. Background lighting PaintPack is an analogue of Philips Ambilight on your monitor. PaintPack vs Ambilight. Ours win
Today I will tell you and show you how to make dynamic monitor backlighting.
Surely you know that sitting at a computer in dark time 24 hours is harmful to the eyes, and this is due to the contrast between the monitor and the darkness. Therefore, to reduce eye strain, backlighting is needed. Of course, you can get by table lamp, but to create more comfort or just for beauty.
For dynamic backlighting we need:
1) Address LED Strip Light.
2) Resistor from 200-500 Ohms.
3) Arduino.
4) Thick and thin wire.
5) Solder.
6) Soldering iron.
7) Flux.
8) Electrical tape
9) Wire cutters
Assembly and setup:
1) We will connect everything as per the diagram below. The scheme itself is outrageously simple. The tape is connected from a 5V power supply (the author of this homemade product will connect it to the computer’s power supply), the ground of the tape and the DI contact are connected to the Arduino, and the DI contact is through a resistor, that’s all. Thus, the tape is powered by the computer's power supply, and the Arduino by Computer USB and via USB receives information for the LED strip.
2) First, let’s take a thick wire that will go to the power supply and a thin one for the Arduino, strip it, tin it and solder everything as in the photo below.
3) Next, solder two thin wires to the Arduino, not forgetting the resistor.
4) Now the fun part, you need to attach the tape to the monitor. The number of LEDs on the left and right should be the same, for example twenty on the left and twenty on the right, the same on the top and bottom, for example thirty on the top and thirty on the bottom, this is very important.
5) Lay out the tape on the table. Rectangle with the required length both width and s the right amount LEDs as in the photo below. Notice that the beginning of the tape with the DI contact is in the lower left corner and the end of the tape is also in the lower left corner, this is also very important.
6) Well, we glue the tape to the monitor and Arduino with double-sided tape.
7) Now we connect power to the tape and Arduino via USB to the computer.
8) Flash the Arduino. The firmware and instructions on how to do this can be found at.
9) Next, open the firmware file. We look at where you connected the Arduino and remember, then go to “tools” and look for “port” and select the USB port to which you connected the Arduino and select it. In our case, this is port number five.
10) Then in the first setting (highlighted in yellow, in the photo below) we indicate our number of LEDs. And we complete the firmware.
11) Now install the AmbiBox program, it will be in the archive with the firmware. Everything is simple there. But at the end, when selecting a device, you need to specify “Adalight”.
12) Let's launch. We immediately set the language to Russian. And automatic activation when the computer starts, also so that this program does not interfere with the computer starting, we set the delay to 20s.
13) And now go to the next tab and immediately click on “more settings”.
14) Don’t be scared and remember the number of the USB port to which the Arduino is connected and select the desired port.
15) Next in the program we can select the mode for capturing color from the screen. For the author, only the first six work, but you can poke around yourself and choose the mode that suits you or just works. The author chose the “GDI FS Aero” mode; the distinctiveness of this mode is that standard transparent windows will be displayed in the backlight.
16) Click “show capture zones” and see that they are not configured at all. First, select the number of your LEDs.
17) The program should reboot. Then click on the zone setup wizard. And we adjust your parameters into the program, you can see an example in the photo below. I also advise you to increase the color setting zones, so the result will be prettier.
Ambilight technology
The proprietary backlighting technology of the above-mentioned company consists of special lamps built into the TV that allow a soft glow to be projected in a certain way onto the wall behind the TV, which seems to continue the picture from the screen to increase immersion in the atmosphere of what is happening on the screen.
The technology itself was born in the last century due to the fact that, on the one hand, the brightness of the then TV receivers was insufficient, and viewers turned off the lights when watching them, on the other hand, watching TV in the dark put a sharp strain on the eyes, which led to rapid fatigue and general discomfort. The solution was obvious - the presence of a nearby source of diffused light (so-called TV lamps). Today, according to the Philips research department, this problem Ambilight technology is designed to solve this problem.
Currently, there are already 5 generations (and a lot of modifications) of this technology, of which the last three are the most common:
- Three-channel backlight technology " Ambilight Surround"with additional lamps on top of the body to expand the field of effects upward and independent binding of the left, right and upper block of background lamps to the corresponding area of the screen.
- Full backlight technology " Ambilight Full Surround", where the screen is already surrounded by lamps on all sides. Accordingly, the processor responsible for controlling the lamps builds the background image by analyzing at least four image zones on the screen. For better light transmission, the TV body is equipped with a rear panel screen.
- Technology " Ambilight Spectra”, which allows you to create a “volumetric” image thanks to more than 120 new generation LEDs and advanced image processing algorithms.
All technologies, to one degree or another, create diffuse light from behind the TV, which complements the colors and light intensity of the image displayed on the screen.
What can you say at the end of the review? The device is undoubtedly interesting and worth trying, especially considering that the manufacturer provides a free test drive for 30 days, i.e. if you don’t like the device, you can return it and get your money back. Your costs in this case will be equal to postage to the manufacturer. Main disadvantage— the device only works in conjunction with software, which means you need a computer to obtain the dynamic backlight effect.
Results
Well, the bottom line is:
pros
- work with any type of monitors and TV connected to a computer;
- low system requirements to PC hardware;
- fully implemented functionality that does not differ from that declared by the manufacturer;
- good software support, including from third-party software manufacturers;
- the ability to customize the product and create non-standard solutions;
- low price;
- wide possibilities for payment and delivery of goods;
- ease of installation and configuration;
- Russian language service technical support;
- detailed text and video instructions on the manufacturer’s website;
- free test drive.
Minuses
- a computer is required to obtain the dynamic backlight effect;
- lack of software included in the package, the need to download it from the Internet;
- lack of instructions (even electronic) in the kit; the need to read it on the manufacturer’s website;
- lack of a number of fastening elements (double-sided tape) for LEDs;
- the need for a certain location of the screen (15-30 cm from the wall) to obtain the most correct effect;
- absence of a warranty card and manufacturer’s details both on the packaging and on the product itself.
Campaign to raise money for the production of Lightpack 2. It's about about the LED strip, which is hidden behind the TV, receives a signal via HDMI and highlights what is happening on the screen in appropriate colors. It sounds like Ambilight from Philips, but, being a separate device, it has its own differences.
Firstly, Lightpack 2 has a Lightbridge switch, which serves as a hub for HDMI devices: the tape is connected to Lightbridge, it is connected to the TV, and sources are directly connected to it via four HDMI inputs.
Secondly, complete with the device you can order “pixels” - small flashlights that, according to the company, enhance the process of “immersion” when viewing with their flickering.
Thirdly, Lightpack 2 works with both TVs and monitors (the previous version, Lightpack without an index, was designed exclusively for computers), and to get started you just need to plug it into a power outlet.
Fourthly, the new product can be used as a cozy lamp, adjusting the lighting using the application for mobile devices with the TV turned off.
The kit comes with SmartCorners devices, which, as the name suggests, are attached to the corners and allow the device to determine the diagonal of the screen. The process looks like this: you need to cut pieces from a coil of LED strip correct sizes, attach them to the back of the TV, install SmartCorners and start watching.
Each “pixel” has a 3 Ah battery, which allows it to last for weeks without recharging. You can place it anywhere: on the wall, on the table, on the ceiling. The “pixels” are connected to the main device via Bluetooth and work both in conjunction with Lightpack 2 and separately.
Lightbridge switch
For $39 you can purchase 1 “pixel”, for $179 you can get Lightpack 2, five meters of LED strip, a set of SmartCorners and a control panel. Another $80 will add five “pixels” to this set, and a set with ten small “pixels” and one large one will cost $499.
The developers promise to ship the devices around the world in February next year. There is no doubt about the success of the campaign: the project is two days old, and the planned amount of $198,000 has already been practically collected.
Big Pixel standalone light 
Mobile app for Lightpack control A few years ago, mySKU had an amazing review posted by . The comments on this review are also amazing - it's just a huge knowledge base (so huge that the browser can barely load this page). Time passes, components become cheaper, mySKU finds a new audience that might have missed this review. I also decided to describe the process of creating adaptive backlighting for a TV or monitor like Philips Ambilight in my own words. Perhaps someone will find my review useful.
In 2007, Philips patented an incredibly simple, but, without exaggeration, amazing TV backlight technology. With such adaptive backlighting, the eyes become less tired when viewing in the dark, the presence effect increases, the display area expands, etc. Ambilight is applicable not only to video and photo content, but also to games. Ambilight has become business card Philips TVs. Since then, Philips has been vigilant to ensure that no one large manufacturers and I didn’t dare to think about encroaching on the sacred by creating something like that. It is probably possible to license this technology, but the conditions are somehow prohibitive, and other market players are not particularly eager to do this. Small companies also tried (and there are now companies that are doing this) to introduce similar technology in the form of separate kits, but punishment from Philips was inevitable. So, in the best case, if the company does not somehow renew the patent or its derivative, other manufacturers will only be able to produce something similar in 2027.
But such punishment does not apply to us, ordinary consumers. We are free to do what we see fit. Today I will tell you in detail how to make your own adaptive backlight for a TV or monitor like Philips Ambilight (hereinafter simply Ambilight). For some, the article will not contain anything new, because... There are dozens of such projects, and hundreds of articles have been written on different languages, and there are thousands of people who have already done this to themselves. But for many this can all be very interesting. You don't need any special skills. Only basic knowledge of physics for 8th grade high school. Well, just a little bit of soldering of wires.
So that you can better understand what I’m talking about, I’ll give you my example of what happened. The real costs for a 42" TV are about 1000 rubles and 2 hours of work.
The video does not convey all the sensations and effect in its entirety, but for the first time the children sat with open mouths.
Possible implementation options
There are several options for implementing Ambilight. They depend on the video source.The cheapest, simplest and effective option- the signal source is a PC running Windows, Mac OS X or Linux. Windows boxes on Atom processors, which cost from $70, are now very common. All of them are ideal for implementing Ambilight. I’ve been using various Windows boxes (in a TV stand) as a media player for several years now, I’ve written a small handful of reviews and consider them the best TV set-top boxes for media content. The hardware implementation of this option is the same for all of the above. operating systems. It is this option that I will talk about in the article.. The software part will relate to Windows system, AmbiBox will act as a universal control program. Can be used with Mac OS X and Linux.
The second option is that the signal source is a media set-top box based on Android, of which there are also a huge number. This option is the most problematic. First, the highlighting will only work in the Kodi media harvester (and its offshoots). Secondly, in the vast majority of cases, everything works only with hardware video decoding disabled, which is unacceptable for most boxes. The hardware implementation of the project also imposes certain requirements. I won’t touch on it, but if there’s something specific you’re interested in, I’ll try to answer in the comments.
The third option is a solution independent of the signal source. This is the most expensive, but absolutely universal solution, because... the signal is taken directly from the HDMI cable. For it you will need a fairly powerful microcomputer (such as a Raspberry Pi), an HDMI splitter, an HDMI-RCA AV converter, a USB 2.0 analog video capture device. Only with this option you can be guaranteed to use Ambilight with any TV set-top box/receiver, Android boxes, Apple TV, game consoles (for example, Xbox One, PlayStation 4) and other devices that have an HDMI output. For the version with 1080p60 support, the cost of components (without LED strip) will be about $70, with 2160p60 support - about $100. This option is very interesting, but you need to write about it separate article.
Hardware
To implement it, you will need three main components: a controllable RGB LED strip, a power supply, and an Arduino microcomputer.First a little explanation.
WS2811 is a three-channel controller/driver (chip) for RGB LEDs with single-wire control (addressing an arbitrary LED). WS2812B is an RGB LED in an SMD 5050 package, which already has a WS2811 controller built into it.
For simplicity, the LED strips suitable for the project are called WS2811 or WS2812B.
WS2812B strip is a strip on which WS2812B LEDs are placed in series. The strip operates with a voltage of 5 V. There are strips with different densities of LEDs. Usually it is: 144, 90, 74, 60, 30 per meter. There are different degrees of protection. Most often these are: IP20-30 (protection against solid particles), IP65 (protection against dust and water jets), IP67 (protection against dust and protection against partial or short-term immersion in water to a depth of 1 m). Backing black and white.
Here is an example of such a tape:
WS2811 tape is a tape on which a WS2811 controller and some kind of RGB LED are placed in series. There are options designed for voltages of 5 V and 12 V. Density and protection are similar to the previous option.
Here is an example of such a tape:
There are also WS2811 “tapes” with large and powerful LEDs as in the photo below. They are also suitable for implementing Ambilight for some huge panel.
Which tape to choose, WS2812B and WS2811?
An important factor is the power supply of the tape, which I will talk about a little later.
If you have a power supply at home that is suitable for power (often power supplies are left at home from old or damaged equipment), then choose a tape based on the voltage of the power supply, i.e. 5 V - WS2812B, 12 V - WS2811. In this case, you will simply save money.
From myself I can give a recommendation. If total There will be no more than 120 LEDs in the system, then WS2812B. If more than 120, then WS2811 with an operating voltage of 12 V. You will understand why this is so when it comes to connecting the tape to the power supply.
What level of tape protection should I choose?
For most, IP65 is suitable, because... On one side it is coated with “silicone” (epoxy resin), and on the other there is a 3M self-adhesive surface. This tape is convenient to mount on a TV or monitor and is convenient to wipe off dust.
What LED density should I choose?
For the project, strips with a density of 30 to 60 LEDs per meter are suitable (of course, 144 is possible, no one prohibits). The higher the density, the greater the Ambilight resolution (number of zones) and the greater the maximum overall brightness. But it’s worth considering that the more LEDs in the project, the more complex the strip’s power supply circuit will be, and a more powerful power supply will be needed. The maximum number of LEDs in a project is 300.
Buying tape
If your TV or monitor is hanging on the wall, and all 4 sides have a lot of free space nearby, then the tape is best placed at the back along the perimeter on all 4 sides for maximum effect. If your TV or monitor is installed on a stand, or there is little free space at the bottom, then the tape should be placed on the back on 3 sides (i.e. the bottom without tape).
For myself, I chose a white WS2812B IP65 strip with 30 LEDs per meter. I already had a suitable 5V power supply. I was deciding whether to use 60 or 30 LEDs per meter, but chose the latter after watching the video from ready-made examples implementation - the brightness and resolution suited me, and the power supply is easier to organize, there are fewer wires. Aliexpress has a huge number of lots of WS2812B tapes. I ordered 5 meters for $16. For my TV (42", 3 sides) I only needed 2 meters, i.e. I could buy it for $10, the remaining three meters for a friend. Prices often change among sellers, there are many offers, so just choose a cheap lot on Aliexpress with a high rating (search keywords - WS2812B IP65 or WS2811 12V IP65).
Buying a power supply for the tape
The power supply is selected according to power and voltage. For WS2812B - voltage 5 V. For WS2811 - 5 or 12 V. The maximum power consumption of one WS2812B LED is 0.3 W. For WS2811 in most cases it is the same. Those. The power supply power must be at least N * 0.3 W, where N is the number of LEDs in the project.
For example, you have a 42" TV, you chose a WS2812B strip with 30 LEDs per meter, you need 3 meters of strip on all 4 sides. You will need a power supply with a voltage of 5 V and a maximum power of 0.3 * 30 * 3 = 27 W , i.e. 5 V / 6 A. My implementation uses only 3 sides, a total of 60 LEDs (57 to be precise) - power from 18 W, i.e. 5 V / 4 A.
I’ve had the ORICO CSA-5U (8 A) multiport USB charger lying idle for a long time, left over from an old review. Its ports are powered in parallel (this is critically important), this charger is ideal for me as a power supply, because... I will connect the tape through 2 parallel connections (explanations will be later in the article).
If I didn’t have this charger, I would have chosen it (but in the comments they write that they often put 2.5 A inside, so it’s better to study this issue in more detail).
Buying a microcomputer
Ambilight will be controlled by an Arduino microcomputer. Arduino Nano on Aliexpress costs about apiece.
Costs for my option (for 42" TV):
$10 - 2 meters WS2812B IP65 (30 LEDs per meter)
$4 - 5 V / 4 A power supply (I didn’t spend any money on a power supply, I’m giving the cost for clarity)
$2.5 - Arduino Nano
-----------
16,5$
or 1000 rubles
Hardware implementation
The most important thing is to properly organize the power supply for the tape. The tape is long, the voltage sags at high currents, especially at 5 V. Most of the problems that arise for those who make their own Ambilight are related to power supply. I use the rule - you need to make a separate power supply for every 10 W of maximum power consumption at 5 V and 25 W of power consumption at 12 V. The length of the power supply (from the power supply to the tape itself) should be minimal (without reserve), especially at 5 IN.
General scheme The connection looks like this (the diagram shows the power connection for my version):
Power is supplied to the tape at both ends - two parallel connections. For example, if I were lighting on all 4 sides, and the strip had 60 LEDs per meter (i.e. maximum power 54 W), then I would make the following power supply:
The connecting wires must be used appropriately; the smaller the gauge (AWG), the better, so that they are sufficient for the calculated current strength.
Two contacts go to the Arduino from the tape. GND, which needs to be connected to the corresponding pin on the Arduino. And DATA, which needs to be connected to the sixth digital pin through a 300-550 Ohm resistor (preferably 470 Ohms). If you don’t have a resistor, then in most cases everything will work fine without it, but it’s better to have one. You can buy a resistor for a couple of kopecks at any radio store. The Arduino microcomputer itself can be placed in any convenient case; many people use a Kinder surprise egg for this. The Arduino should be placed as close to the tape as possible so that the DATA connection has a minimum length.
Soldering wires to the tape is simple. The main rule is that the contact time with the soldering iron should be minimal; you cannot “mess around” with the soldering iron.
In my case it turned out like this:
Two black quality ones USB cable went for power, and white for connecting to the computer. I ran out of white heat shrink tubing so I used red ones. Not as “pretty”, but it suits me (it’s hidden behind the TV anyway).
An important question is how to bend the tape at a right angle? If you have a strip of 60 LEDs, then the strip needs to be cut and connected with short wires (placing it all in a heat-shrinkable tube). You can buy special three-pin corner connectors for LED strips (there are 4 pins in the picture, just for example):
If you have a strip of 30 LEDs, then the distance between the LEDs is large, you can easily make a corner without cutting. Remove a piece of the “silicone” coating, insulate (you can even use tape) the contact pad and bend it according to the diagram:
I cut a piece of tape to practice. The main thing is not to overdo it - bend it slightly once and that’s it. There is no need to bend it here and there, there is no need to press the bend line too hard.
Here is a view from the back of the TV, all the wires go through the hole into the cabinet:
Software part
This is the simplest thing.We connect the Arduino microcomputer via USB. Driver ( serial interface CH340) will be installed automatically. If this does not happen, then in the folder Arduino IDE There is a Drivers folder with everything you need.
Launch the Arduino IDE and open the Adalight.ino file.
We change the number of LEDs in the code. I'm 57.
Tools > Board > Arduino nano
Tools > Port > Select the COM port (there will be the right option)
Click the “Download” button:
The program will inform you when the download is complete (this is literally a couple of seconds).
Ready. You need to disconnect the Arduino from USB and connect it again. The tape will light up sequentially in red, green and blue - the Arduino has been activated and is ready for use.
Download and install the program. In the program, click “More settings” and specify the device - Adalight, COM port and the number of LEDs. Select the number of frames to capture (up to 60).
Next, click “Show Capture Zones” > “Zone Setup Wizard”. Select your ribbon configuration.
Click Apply and Save Settings. This completes the basic settings. Then you can experiment with the size of the capture zones, color correct the tape, etc. The program has many different settings.
To activate a profile, just double-click on the corresponding icon (AmbiBox profiles) in the Windows notification area. The tape will light up immediately. It can also be turned off by double clicking.
That's basically it. You saw the result at the beginning of the article. Nothing complicated, cheap and healthy. I'm sure you can do better!
Many people today use LED strip to illuminate a wide variety of interior elements in their homes. Moreover, LED lighting is often located behind the TV. It’s quite easy to organize such lighting yourself if you know some of the nuances that we’ll talk about in this article.
The most in a simple way To organize this type of lighting - use a regular LED strip or PaintPack. Our article today will tell you about the benefits of backlighting a TV with an LED strip, as well as why the PaintPack system is needed.
Why is TV backlighting necessary?
It is known that watching TV in complete darkness is very harmful to the human visual system. The negative effect is especially noticeable in adults, while in children it is smoothed out due to growth and development, as well as the strong regenerative abilities of the child’s body.
Note! The harm in this situation is confirmed both by many studies and by people’s subjective feelings.
Watching TV without at least backlighting is fraught with a number of negative phenomena:
- rapid eye fatigue;
- drop in visual acuity;
- the appearance of headaches, etc.
Note! All this, especially rapid eye fatigue, is caused by the presence of too bright and noticeable contrast between the TV screen and a darkened room. In addition, the screen brightness itself can change dynamically, which makes visual system a person to function in extreme conditions for himself.
A bright TV screen and a dark room are a bad combination for the eyes.
Long-term or even worse - constant watching of TV, when there is no background lighting, and the entire room is in darkness, leads to the development of stress, as well as general fatigue. Ultimately, there is a general decline in human health, a deterioration in the protective and adaptation mechanisms in his body.
Solution to the problem: external lighting
Today, the problem of watching television at night has a fairly simple solution, which can be implemented with your own hands. The solution lies in installing additional backlighting for those models that do not have the contour lighting of the screen equipped by the manufacturer.
But there are “pitfalls” here, without knowledge of which harm to the body will continue to be caused. In this situation, the following nuances must be taken into account:
- general ceiling lighting is not suitable here, since its luminous flux will illuminate the screen. As a result, the TV's contrast will begin to decrease;
Room ceiling lighting
- some the best solution There will be the use of wall sconces, floor lamps and table lamps. But in such a situation we are faced with the problem of optimal placement of lighting fixtures, because they should not interfere with watching TV. If such lamps are located behind the viewer, they will create glare on the screen. And if they are placed near the TV, they will attract attention, distracting;
Lamp next to the TV
- background lighting. Creating background lighting around the TV does not have all the disadvantages of the previously listed methods of placing lighting fixtures. The advantages of this method include the fact that lighting using modern technologies(LED strips and PaintPack) can be easily organized with your own hands.
As you can see, backlighting in this situation is the best option.
Features of backlighting: what to consider
Background lighting, which you organize yourself behind the TV, must meet a number of requirements:
- be unobtrusive so as not to attract undue attention to yourself;
- provide an optimal level of luminous flux to prevent eye fatigue from prolonged viewing of television in the dark;
Background lighting
- easy and quick to install with your own hands;
- the light sources with which it is formed should not heat up. This factor can lead to the risk of developing a fire hazard, since the TV itself, even modern models, heats up during its operation;
- lamps used for background lighting must be environmentally friendly and free of harmful substances. Such requirements are due to the fact that when placed behind equipment of this kind, they are at risk of mechanical damage. Especially if there are small children in the house who are constantly scurrying around near equipment.
Of the variety of lighting devices actively used in external and internal lighting systems, in this situation LED products, namely LED strips, most fully meet the above requirements.
Benefits of LED TV Lighting in the Background
Using an LED strip as background lighting for any equipment in the house has the following advantages:
- the ability to choose the backlight of any color. LED products have a fairly wide range of all possible colors and shades;
LED lights
- easy DIY installation. Due to the presence of a self-adhesive base, such products can be glued to any surface, even the back cover of equipment;
- excellent luminous flux, which is many times greater than all other light sources;
- no significant heating during operation;
- completely environmentally friendly products that cannot break and injure a child;
- low power consumption;
- long service period.
Separately, it is worth noting that, as decorative and background lighting for a TV, LED strip can give any room an atmosphere of celebration, romance or fairytale.
With such advantages, it is not surprising that it is the LED strip that has become most widely used as background lighting not only for televisions, but also for various decorative elements of the interior.
Options for installing LED backlighting behind a TV
As we have already found out, the simplest and in an accessible way To make your own backlighting is to install an LED strip on the back cover of the TV. This procedure will not take you much time and will require the following steps:
- We place the TV on a previously prepared table, which is covered with a cloth. This must be done carefully so as not to damage the screen;
- Glue LED strip around the perimeter of the back cover. Remember that it can have any glow color;
- since the TV will heat up during its operation, the tape should additionally be placed on glue every 5-10 cm;
Installing the tape
- then solder strips of tape in the corner. You can buy special corner connectors here;
- then we connect to them a power supply with the required power for the tape used in the backlight. You will need to include a 5→12 volt relay or converter in the circuit. This is necessary if the device has USB outputs;
Connection diagram
- The backlight switch can be attached in the corner.
Note! The tape must be held firmly so as not to cause a short circuit.
PaintPack system
In addition, you can use PaintPack lighting systems.
The PaintPack system is a small package. Removable LED strips are connected to it on both sides. PaintPack is also equipped with an indicator, power connector and microUSB, through which it can be connected to a computer. PaintPack also includes a master connector. It allows you to connect two devices in series.
Note! This fixture is great for background lighting and computer monitors.
The system housing should be installed on the back of the TV. Next, using the algorithm described above, we mount and connect the LED strips.
If you plan to connect PaintPack via a USB connector to a computer, you will need to install the required drivers, as well as configure the device in the bundled program. For this you will need the AmbiBox package.
Conclusion
When deciding to create a TV backlight, you won’t find a better light source than an LED strip. In this situation, all manipulations are quite easy to do with your own hands, which is another plus. Moreover, using PaintPack, you will achieve more manufacturability of the background lighting created by yourself.
Lighting in the kitchen of a small apartment