Knife cutting edge. The sharpening angle of knives is its most important characteristic. Sharpening with Japanese water stones

Why is it bad to call the parts of a knife as you are used to (albeit incorrectly)? Well, at least because they won’t understand you on forums and news sites, or they will understand you incorrectly, or they will still understand you, but they will label you an offensive noob.

So, we look at the diagram, read the explanations and remember.

1. Strip - a blade together with a tang (full or in the form of a rod), without a handle.
2. Blade length is the full length from the tip of the knife to the place where the handle begins (to the shoulders of the blade or from the guard/pritina, if any).
3. The blade is the part of the knife with which we make the cut. This means the entire visible metal part of the strip, excluding those hidden by the handle and parts of the device - guard, guard, etc.
4. The shank is a metal part that is completely or almost completely hidden in the handle.
5. The butt is the upper unsharpened border of the blade from the tip to the handle; it may have a longitudinal rib for crushing cartilage, nuts, etc.
6. emphasis for thumb- a small area on the butt of the blade near the handle, usually with a notch, used to hold the blade with the thumb resting on it.
7. The bevel of the butt is the line of transition of the butt to the tip; in the European tradition, the bevel is straight or concave (the so-called “pike”), while Japanese-design knives have a smooth and convex bevel (“sheep’s hoof”).
8. Sharpened bevel of the butt - an additional cutting edge formed by two narrow slopes on the bevel of the butt to increase the effectiveness of piercing blows, constructively brings the knife closer to the dagger (a knife with a double-edged sharpening).
9. A false blade is a part of the butt formed by two narrow slopes, which is sometimes sharpened.
10. Golomen – flat side surface blade from the butt to the beginning of the descent line.

Dol is what schoolchildren love to call blood flow. Naturally, the fuller does not have such functions, but rather it is intended to lighten the weight of the blade while maintaining its longitudinal rigidity.



11. Point/Toe - The point where the butt (or false blade if present) meets the cutting edge.
12. Sharpening edge / Trigger start line – can form a single plane with the trigger itself if they are made from the butt.
13. The slopes are two sides of the blade formed by forging or grinding that converge on the blade, forming its wedge-shaped cross-section.
14. Muzzle - a semicircular radius notch that separates the cutting edge from the unsharpened part of the heel; protects the heel from damage when sharpening and straightening.
15. The cutting edge is the line that is formed at the intersection of two leads.
16. Leads are two narrow sharpened side edges along the cutting edge that sparkle when we look at the blade from the side. Often mistakenly called a cutting edge, but this is not true: they form it at the toe line.
17. The rise of the blade is the place where the leads, together with the cutting edge formed by them, begin to rise to the butt. Shown here schematically, in reality the lifting can be performed not in an arc, but in a straight line, at an angle - for example, with the American tanto.
18. The working/fighting part often coincides with the length of the blade: this is the entire cutting edge from the unsharpened heel to the tip.
19. The working part near the heel - on some types of knives, the area for rough work (cutting, cutting) has greater strength, for example, due to a larger sharpening angle.
20. Serrator is a serrated, wear-resistant blade that can be used as a sling cutter.
21. Blade II - a semicircular radius notch that separates the cutting edge from the unsharpened part of the heel, protects the heel from damage during sharpening and straightening.
22. The heel is a thickened, unsharpened part that makes the knife, as the knives say, more grippy due to the possibility of an additional grip with the index finger and its application to the unsharpened part of the blade, and for the master it makes it easier for the master to pair the blade with the handle.
23. The sub-finger radius is an auxiliary notch near the heel, which also serves for the convenience of additional grip on the blade with the index finger.
24. Heel II - Another part, also called the heel, is thicker and can serve as a stop if you crush something with the holes of the knife.
25. Shoulders are recesses on the blade at the point of transition to the shank, which serve as limiters when the blade mates with the parts of the handle.
26. Mounting holes – through holes on the shank and dies for joint fastening. Both permanent fasteners (rivets) and shaped threaded fasteners (such as a furniture tie screw) are used.
27. Shank Thread/Screw - The threaded back portion of the shank that is used under the tightening nut for through-hole mounting of the handle.
28. Fastening/tightening nut – a shaped nut for fastening one-piece parts of the handle (handle, device, fittings, rings, etc.) to the shank.
29. Handle - the entire part of the knife, intended for holding it with the hand, with safety elements: linings, handle, guard, bolsters (bolsters), butt, pommels, stops, fasteners, etc.
30. The back of the handle is the part of the handle on the butt side of the blade.
31. The belly of the handle is the part of the handle on the side of the cutting edge, which can be shaped for ease of holding with the hand.
32. The handle is a solid part of the handle, attached during mounting between the parts of the device: the guard and the butt plate, put on the shank during installation, by which we hold the knife with our hand.
33. Handle dies/linings - during overlay installation, detachable paired parts that are attached to the shank with tie fasteners through holes or with adhesive compounds.
34. Pritins are paired metal parts mounted on the shank at the point of transition to the blade: on ordinary knives they are used for hygienic purposes, on folding knives - to increase the strength of the hinge connection between the blade and the handle.
35. Limiter/bolster – also known as a guard (for example, on tactical knives). A shaped part of the handle with a protrusion-limiter at the heel of the blade, usually on the side of the cutting edge, serves for safe handling of the knife and prevents the hand from slipping onto the blade during piercing blows.
36. The end of the bolster is the part of the bolster facing the blade.
37. The front stop is the lower part of the bolster, the limiting protrusion.
38. Crimping ring/clip - when mounting the handle on the side, a special ring is put on the end of the handle to strengthen it.
39. Cross/limiter - part of the handle adjacent to the heel, equipped with double-sided front stops - on the side of the blade and butt.
40. Forging - when mounting on horseback, an oblong metal cap is placed on the part of the handle at the heel.
41. Sub-finger notch - serves on the handle as an additional support for ease of use of the knife when pulling types of cuts or when chopping.
42. A pinch is a sub-finger rest, placed between the middle and index fingers, used for increased reliability of holding the handle with the hand.
43. Pommel/buttplate – a separate, not always present part on the back of the handle, like a plug, through which a tightening nut tightens the handle parts during mounting; can be decorated with engraving, tauching, etc.
44. Back rest – a rest under the little finger or the base of the palm, used on chopping type knives.
45. The end is the back part of the pommel.
46. Lanyard hole – a hole into which a lanyard cord/sling can be threaded; This is done both to prevent loss of the knife (when working at height or on water) and to make it easier to remove the knife from its sheath or pocket; it is mostly found on fairly large knives.
47. Decorative rivet - a decorated fastening or decorative element in the form of fasteners on a handle.
48. Rivets/screws – tightening fasteners for through installation of paired parts on the handle: linings, dies, rivets.
49. Spacers - are made to increase the grip of the palm with smooth handles (for example, thin brass washers on inlaid leather handles) or as decorative elements.

As a bonus, we also offer a diagram of a Nepalese kukri: you definitely won’t find, for example, a “Shiva’s tooth” in a European knife.

To correctly understand the following material, you need to decide on terminology, which is not always correctly presented on the Internet.

Blade anatomy

Of course, different blades have different cross-sections different shapes, but their common details can still be identified and clearly defined. Therefore, let’s take an averaged image, using which we can understand all the necessary terms.

Bold italics indicate details that can be found in the figure.

• Blade thickness - thickness, usually measured closer to butt , where they have not yet begun descents .
• The thickness of the reduction is the distance between the points where the descents end and begin. carts (one point on each side, see picture). Why the thickness of the information? Because that's where metal starts come down in one line - cutting edge.
• Leads are narrow planes that, when converging at one point, form a cutting edge. When examining the blade, it is they that shine in the light, and not the edge, as is mistakenly believed.
• Cutting edge - an almost “imaginary” line, which still has a thickness of several microns, but is conditionally only a place where the leads converge.
• Sharpening angle - the angle at which the leads intersect (or descents - in the absence of leads); This term is popularly understood as the “sharpness” of sharpening. By the way, this angle is always greater than the one at which the slopes meet.

The smaller the angle between the slopes (and this value ranges from 8 to 50 degrees), the sharper the knife, that is, we have to apply less force to cut.

How to correctly set the overall cutting edge angle

This is important: if we are talking about a knife with symmetrical slopes, then the sharpening angle will be twice as large as the one under which we place the sharpening stone. For example, if we prefer to sharpen our hunting knife at 30 degrees, then there should be an angle of 15 degrees between the blade and the block.

From this we derive two concepts:

• full angle, which is the sharpening angle (in our example - 30 degrees);
• half angle is the one at which we place the blade in relation to the block (in our example - 15 degrees).

We determine the angle itself based on the purpose of the knife.

Special, particularly delicate cutting tools

By these we mean surgical instruments, shaving devices, blades, etc.

Sharpening angle for delicate instruments– 8–10 degrees.

Knives for working on soft materials

These are mostly kitchen knives: fillet knives, vegetable chopping knives, etc.

The sharpening angle for fillet and vegetable knives is 10–20 degrees.

Universal kitchen knives

Chef's knives for various purposes can work on both soft and hard materials - cartilage, small bones, frozen fish or meat.

The sharpening angle of kitchen “universal” is 20–25 degrees.

Knives for hunters, fishermen, survivalists. Tactical knives

Such tools are often found not only with soft camping products such as sandwiches, but are also designed to cut branches and fishing lines. Sometimes they are even used as sling cutters.

The sharpening angle of “street” knives is 22–25 degrees.

Knives and other tools for working on hard materials

This includes kukris, machetes, garden knives, tourist and ordinary household axes.

The sharpening angle of knives for heavy work is 20–40 degrees, sometimes up to 50.

How to understand what kind of sharpening a tool requires

Sharpening does not always follow a single algorithm. For example, if we use an expensive and high-quality knife for its intended purpose and regularly care for it, most likely it only needs editing. But an old tool that has not been touched by a sharpening stone for a long time may require not only sharpening, but first of all repair.

The task of both editing and sharpening is to restore the original state of the cutting edge. What could happen to her? It either becomes blunt (that is, instead of the line on which the leads meet, an additional rounded surface is formed), or damaged (jams and chips appear on the line of intersection of the leads), or it is completely pulled towards one of the leads. The last case is typical for knives with one-sided sharpening.

• Edit

If the cutting edge is simply slightly deformed and deviates from the specified straight line (without cracks or microscopic chips), it can and should only be corrected without removing large quantity metal On hard steels this is done using laps, belts and slings with fine-grained abrasives, on softer steels - with the help of musats, almost smooth dressing devices, since sometimes even abrasive materials are not required.

• Sharpening

If the leads are already a little worn, covered with micro-scratches and micro-chips, and the line where they intersect is slightly rounded (usually they say that “the edge/blade/blade is becoming dull,” but this is not entirely correct), sharpening is needed. In this case, the shape of the inlets is restored using diamond bars or water stones.

• Repair

The blade that is subject to repair is the slopes and leads of which have already lost the geometry necessary for work: deep chips or severe wear have appeared on the blade, and the thickness of the lead has increased by one and a half to two times. Therefore, in order to bring the knife into working condition, you will have to re-form the descents and approaches, which is beyond the power of a person without experience and special tools.

How did you learn to draw the angle correctly? Or maybe you haven't had to do this yet? In this case, you can contact us for the service of sharpening knives and other cutting tools: we know how to do this professionally.

Why does the knife cut?

The knife is cutting tool, the working part of which is the blade, blade. The geometry of the blade is set by the manufacturer, and determines its properties when used, that is, what materials it will be used for cutting.

The basic concepts that define the geometry and determine the use of a knife are descents, approaches and cutting edge.

There are three main types of slopes: flat, convex and concave (lenticular). The shape of the triggers affects the properties of the knife as a whole and the nature of its use. The flat blade knife cuts thick materials very well. A knife with convex slopes does not cut very well, but is suitable for heavy work and for chopping; most expensive to manufacture, difficult to sharpen. A knife with concave slopes cuts thin materials well and is designed for neat work. This form is the cheapest and easiest to produce, which is why most knives have such triggers. There are other options for descents, but they all use the ones we have already discussed.

Leads are the parts of the blade that form the cutting edge. It is on the leads that the entire sharpening process takes place. The presence of leads makes sharpening easier and allows us to work on the edge with necessary pressure, reducing it on fine-grained stones during finishing operations.

The cutting edge is the main working and most loaded part of the blade. There is a lot of pressure on the cutting edge when cutting the material. The cutting edge must have a certain resistance and strength to withstand such heavy loads. The sharper the cutting edge is sharpened, the easier the cutting process is, the penetration of the edge into the material being cut.

An important concept is cutting edge sharpening angle. The sharpening angle is selected in accordance with the purpose of the knife. A knife for delicate and neat work in the kitchen and fillet work will have a temperature of 20-25 degrees. Utility knives, hunting, tourist ones are sharpened to an angle of 30-35 degrees. Universal knives and knives for heavy work, chopping are sharpened at an angle of 35-45 degrees. The smaller the sharpening angle, the easier it is to cut, but the edge is also the least durable, and vice versa, the larger the sharpening angle, the stronger the edge, but it’s hard to cut with such a blade, it’s easier to chop. As a rule, when sharpening, the factory sharpening angle is restored. The sharpening angle is changed only meaningfully and purposefully, for certain tasks, for a certain nature of the work, and without forgetting about the capabilities and characteristics of the steel itself from which the blade is made. As a rule, this requires certain knowledge and experience. If these requirements are not met and they are neglected, we may get jams on the edge or crumbled sections of the edge.

Keep in mind that the angle at which a knife with symmetrical slopes is sharpened is half: if the angle between the longitudinal plane of the blade and the plane of the block is 12 degrees, then the total sharpening angle will be equal to 24 degrees.

The thickness of the information is important characteristic blade. The smaller the reduction value, the better the knife cuts and the more accurate the cut it is intended for. But at the same time, the edge becomes more delicate and can be damaged if handled carelessly or incorrectly. For example, if we cut/chop frozen meat with some finely cut Japanese or other knife, we will easily damage/crumple the edge.
For tourist, tactical and hunting knives more reduction is needed, which will allow you not to be afraid of injuring the edge under loads, and you can also chop small pegs, etc. with such a knife.

It seems to me that for folding knives the most successful reduction is 0.2 - 0.3 mm, depending on the purpose of the knife and the structure of the knife. For tourist knives, the reduction is 0.3 - 0.5 mm, depending on the purpose of the knife and the structure of the knife. For hunting 0.3 - 0.5 mm, for skinning the value is 0.3-0.4 mm. I repeat once again that this is my opinion, and many factors influence the cutting of a particular knife - the width of the blade, the thickness of the blade, the purpose of the knife... You often see domestically produced knives whose cutting thickness tends to be 1 mm or more - such knives cut poorly, especially when the sharpening wears down a little.

The shape of the cutting edge can be represented as a radius inscribed at the point where the leads meet.

The sharper the edge, the less effort it takes to cut and the cleaner and smoother the surface of the material being cut will be.
/ Hong Rok. Perfect Edge /

Unfortunately, zero radius is practically unattainable, but the closer we are to it, the sharper the knife. On a dull knife, if you look at it from the edge, you will notice a line - a thin, uneven shiny strip - this shows where the edge is dull and where it bends. Of course, you can’t see the radius on a sharpened edge without a microscope, but it’s useful to know about this in order to imagine what we want to achieve when sharpening a knife.

This is what the cutting edge looks like after sharpening:

The width of the edge (or width of the top) decreases as the grit of the stone increases.

Image after sharpening on a Chosera 1k stone, tip width ranging from 0.7 µm

Image of a cutting edge after sharpening on a Shapton 2k stone, tip width in the range of 0.4 µm

Image of the tip of the cutting edge after sharpening on a Shapton 4k stone, the width of the tip of the cutting edge in the range of 0.3 µm.

Image of a cutting edge after sharpening on a Shapton 8k stone, cutting edge tip width in the range of 0.15 µm

Image of the cutting edge after sharpening on a Shapton16k stone, the width of the tip of the cutting edge in the range of 0.1 microns.

Cross-sectional images of progression are shown below.

Cross section of the cutting edge after sharpening on a Chosera 1k stone.

Cross section of the cutting edge after sharpening on a Shapton 16k stone.

Photos taken from publication http://www.liveinternet.ru/users/3488088/post357879626/, original article https://scienceofsharp.wordpress.com/2014/04/16/the-honing-progression/

Its performance characteristics and possible areas of application greatly depend on the geometry of a knife blade. In the context of this, we need to separately consider:
1) The shape of the blade (what the blade looks like when you look at it from the side) - this is discussed in a separate article;
2) Blade profile and its sharpening (what the blade looks like in cross-section) – what types of blade profiles there are will be discussed below.

First, a little terminology used in topics about the structure of the blade. In the first picture on the right An example of a cross-section of a blade is presented (as if you cut it in half and look at the resulting cut), on which you can see:
- Butt- this is the blunt part of the blade, on the side opposite to its blade.
- Descents- this is the part of the blade that tapers from the butt to the cutting edge.
- Leads (microbevels, cutting edges)- this is the part of the blade that comes after the slopes and forms the cutting edge. There may not be any approaches when the slopes go straight to the cutting edge.
- Cutting edge.

The following measured characteristics of the blade profile are also often used ( in the picture on the right):
- Information thickness– this is the thickness of the blade in the place where the distance between the slopes is smallest.
- Sharpening angle– the larger the sharpening angle, the more resistant the cutting edge is to damage. The smaller the sharpening angle, the better the cutting properties of the knife. Typically the sharpening angle ranges from 10° (straight razors) to 40° (hunting and tactical knives). The sharpening angle of kitchen knives is on average 15°-20°.
- Slope angle- influence given value the performance characteristics of a knife largely depend on the structure of the blade as a whole.

Below are the main types of blade profiles with brief explanations. It is necessary to understand that these are only the main types of profiles, and in fact there are many more of them in various combinations.

	One of the most popular and beloved sharpenings in the knife community. Provides the knife with very high cutting properties, because has no plane transitions directly at the cutting edge that would interfere with the cut. At the same time, it has very high strength, because The thickness of the blade remains very high right up to the cutting edge. Disadvantages: not very easy sharpening and more expensive production, which ultimately increases the cost of the knife.
	Pentagonal sharpening with leads, Pentagonal wedge with leads Two very similar blade profiles. One of the most common in modern knives, because... are balanced in terms of blade strength and cutting level. A pentagonal wedge with leads cuts a little better and is slightly less durable than a blade with a conventional pentagonal sharpening with leads. IN general case have higher blade strength in comparison with similar wedge-shaped or Scandinavian types of sharpening (which do not have leads). This profile makes it quite easy to change the balance between the strength of the cutting edge and the quality of the cut - by sharpening the leads to a larger or smaller angle.
	It is often called a “chisel” or “chisel” sharpening. One of the sides of the blade with one-sided sharpening is usually flat. On the plus side: this sharpening will allow you to achieve significantly better cutting properties in comparison with most double-sided sharpening while maintaining an acceptable level of cutting edge strength; Thanks to its shape, it allows you to achieve a very precise cut. Among the disadvantages: during prolonged cutting, the blade will be pulled to the side, due to the asymmetrical sharpening; Also, one-sided sharpening is not universal for left-handers and right-handers, because the descent should be on the side of the working surface of the blade.
	Sharpening in which the slopes go directly from the butt to the cutting edge. Possesses very high performance cutting and acceptable durability of the cutting edge and blade strength. On the one hand, such a blade is quite easy to sharpen, because... The cutting plane is very large and therefore it is impossible to make a mistake with the sharpening angle. On the other hand, when sharpening such a blade, the metal must be removed from the entire plane of the slopes, which complicates the process.
	It is often called “Scandinavian” sharpening. A popular type of sharpening of modern knives, especially in Scandinavian models. It is similar to a wedge-shaped profile (see above), but due to a slightly different geometry, it has significantly greater strength and a slightly less good cut. Knives with this sharpening are especially well suited for working with wood, because... They allow you to cut through the material well and, if necessary, pinch it out by slightly turning the knife along its axis.
	Sometimes it is called “razor” sharpening, because. often used in razors and similar knives and tools for delicate work. This sharpening has the highest cutting performance of all possible, but in most cases it turns out to be inapplicable for any rough work.

Perhaps the reader will be interested in comparative information on the impact strength of some popular tool and stainless steels. The data below was the result of research using the Charpy C method, which was described and published several years ago on BladeForums - I recommend registering on this reputable resource (a link to it can be found in the sources at the end of the article) plus some other sources.

Yes, I understand that the data provided is subjective and test results may vary due to certain factors and conditions. Nevertheless, I think that this information deserves attention and can be useful for those who work with metal or choose a knife for themselves.

Below is information about the test results using the Charpy C Ft. Lb:

Sample steel	H.R.C.	Strength
Tool steels:
CPM-15V	60	10
CPM-10V	60	25
CPM-10V	60	20
CPM-9V	54	54
CPM-9V	49	73
CPM-3V	62	40
CPM-3V	60	60
CPM-3V	60	70
CPM-3V	58	85
CPM-4V	62	36
CPM-4V	60	50
CPM-M4	65,5	20
CPM-M4	64	31
CPM-M4	63,5	28
CPM-M4	62	32
CPM-M48	64	16
CPM-T15	65	20
M2	62	20
D2	60	20
D2	59	21
A2	61	31
A2	60	38
A2	60	40
A2	60	41
A2	59	37
A2	58	33
S7	58	120
S7	57	125
L6	60	40
O1	64	14
O1	63	28
O1	62	30
O1	61	30
O1	60	30
O1	59	30
O1	56	32
H13	47	125
A11	61	20
Z-Wear PM	60	65
Vanadis 4	60	50
Stainless steels:
CPM-S90V	58	19
CPM-S90V	56	20
CPM-S60V	56	16
CPM-S30V	58	28
CPM-S35VN	58	32
CPM-154	60	30
154CM	58	28
440C	58	16
440C	56	26
420HC	58	24
M390	60	22

ZAT (Dnepr, Ukraine)
http://www.site/

October 22, 2019

October 17, 2019

ZAT (Dnepr, Ukraine)

October 15, 2019

In the Blog about Sharpening itself, for last years We have compiled a large selection of articles on the operation of this and other manicure tools, their choice, advantages and disadvantages. If you choose something from Stalex and/or follow the new products of this brand, then the information will definitely be useful to you. Take note... If you are looking for a tool with a different name, pay attention to the selection of articles. And be sure to read the information from the "" section - it is unlikely that you will find it anywhere else.

And by the way. Where do you sharpen? Our workshop is always at your service. Comfortable. Promptly. Qualitatively. Our services are used by manicurists from all over Ukraine.

ZAT (Dnepr, Ukraine)

October 12, 2019

ZAT (Dnepr, Ukraine)
http://www.site/

07 October 2019

Soft steels are a completely different matter. As a rule, these are inexpensive knives and few people are willing to pay for their full sharpening, choosing its reduced a budget option. But the day gets interesting when the owner of the knife chooses a premium level sharpening. There is already room to turn around for natural stones- from to initial stage to the finishing stones of the level, or.

For harder steels (for example, such as), the work of natural stones often begins with, and ends, for example, with or the same. Of course, this is only generalized and does not take into account complete sets, which depend, among other things. depending on the purpose of the knife and the wishes of its owner.

If we take the last year - from last summer to this summer, then three stones became a discovery for me - green and burgundy Brazilian slate (I already mentioned them above), as well as. If the first ones, together with other finishing stones, have practically solved all the issues with the finish, incl. for the same soft steels, I consider Hindostan one of the best finishing stones for kitchen knives - I like the aggressive and at the same time soft cut obtained after using this stone.

Well, the use of the same Brazilian slates on soft steels made it possible to remove Llyn Idwall from these sets. Damn it, but still - how amazingly this stone works on the M390! I have never regretted buying it.

I sharpen quite a few kitchen knives made of X30Cr13, so I pay a lot of attention to this issue. It so happens that I use Translucent Arkansas with them mainly on chefs. If I’m in the mood, I can work on it, which significantly increases durability and extends the life of the knife at least until the first edit.

I understand all the reader’s skepticism regarding the existence of cold hardening, but I myself was like that until I figured out this issue, having received a hardened edge. Before I forget, I’ll also note at this point that yes, it makes sense to use oleic acid at this stage (see the link at the end of the article). IMHO, only here it is necessary to distinguish between technical and cosmetic olein, plus monitor the thickness of the layer when applying it. Again, this is subjective, but technical olein works noticeably better.

Using the word “hardening” so boldly, I note that I have achieved an increase in the retention of the razor sharpening (when the knife shaves the hair on the arm) to 15 days without any editing. I think that for the budget X30Cr13 with its conditional 50-52 HRC (according to impressions) this is a good result.

But here there is a second side - the fragility of the edge increases significantly, after a week chips already appear on it. Interestingly, here the chips somewhat increase the aggressiveness, which the knife with the Translucent Arkansas finish cannot boast of.

To what extent does editing on musat work well with hardening? He's a bad friend. After 2-3 cases of using musat, with the restoration of the working sharpness of the knife, you can forget about any hardening effect. Until the next sharpening, which may not be soon.

Today, the most mysterious stone for me remains. The stone works quite delicately and every time I choose a stone for finishing, my hand itself bypasses it. This season I want to wait for the right opportunity, when I have knives from different steels at the same time, plus more time, and experiment with this stone - from grinding in Jasper to its place in the set.

I have long played enough with planing hair and cutting it while hanging, but it will be very interesting for me to choose a set so that, despite all the subtlety of Jasper’s work, the output will be acceptable aggressiveness.

Everyone Have a good day and sharp knives!

ZAT (Dnepr, Ukraine)

05 October 2019

Not because of what I do with my eyes spectral analysis metal, but simply because there are not so many options here. And I don’t quite understand the words about D2 itself on Chinese replicas.

So, if it is used, which is considered a Chinese analogue of D2, then all the talk about American steel has no basis.

Sharpening. India Kors did a good job with the rough roughing of the leads, and with the India Fine stone (already released in the Republic of Kazakhstan) it removed rather large risks from the previous stone. Then the work went noticeably faster - and the finish was achieved with a minimal increase in angle. I noticed that I like this stone more and more. Neither soft nor hard, very pleasant to work with and always pleases with the result.

The result was a sharp knife with a tasty aggressive cut and a final cutting thickness of 0.5-0.8 mm. By the way, the fit of the blade turned out to be quite good and the leads turned out to be almost symmetrical on both sides of the blade.

Yes, shooting in front of a window has both pros and cons... Focusing a lens on a mirror lens is not at all easy)) Let's return to the knife.

I note that the handle itself turned out to be comfortable and the knife fits well in the hand - see the photo above.

The Liner-lock was greased. After this, the flip mechanism is very easy.

The photo below shows the same surrounding landscape that is reflected on the elements of the Shirogorov F3 replica blade. By the way, the trees are from summer heat They protect very well. And now you can pick acorns from the window...

What did you keep silent about? I missed the point with the polished leads. Of course, the “mirror” cannot be obtained with either 1200 Boride or Brazilian shale. In this case, I use one of several options that I'm interested in this moment and by various reasons not entirely satisfied.

Whatever the case for a manicure instrument is made of, it will always remain relevant for nail service professionals. Usually few people pay attention to the covers themselves - they are used, sometimes praised, often scolded. It’s difficult to say whether there have been such studies at all - to what extent do manicurists and pedicurists associate the quality and convenience of covers for wire cutters and scissors with the quality and comfort of the tool that is in it?

Indeed, if a manufacturer is trying to sell a high-quality and easy-to-use tool, then he will also think about the case that almost always accompanies it.

In the photo in the header, on the right, there is a cover for ECLAT nail scissors. By the way, this tool is written in great detail and interestingly in a selection of articles about, which has been collected over many years in the Blog about Sharpening. Despite the simplicity of this case, I was quite surprised when I noticed that the scissors did not fall out of it by themselves - i.e. it fulfills its role quite well, although it is made of what seems to be a very simple and unlikely to last (this is just my guess) material.

On the right in the top photo are leather cases from the STALEX company. Be sure to read the information about this tool that is always available. This case is well known to all nail technicians who use STALEX nail clippers - if handled with care, it lasts for the entire service life of the tool, and it itself quite reliably and in all cases protects the blades of the nail clippers during storage and transportation.

In the photo above, and in principle this can be seen from the applied logos, instrument covers and are shown. I cannot say which of these cases came first. I assume that it was the leather case of the OLTON wire cutters. At least the first time I saw it was in 2009 or 10, while the case of AKUTO wire cutters made of thick leatherette was only in 2019.

I have already talked in detail about OLTON cases in the Blog about Sharpening, for example in "". I will only note that the pliers of the same name fit into the case developed by the manufacturer AKUTO with great difficulty.

How much you spend, not how much you earn, helps determine how satisfied you are with your life.

Researchers from the Greater Britain Office for National Statistics found that spending on hotels, restaurants and household furniture was linked to life satisfaction.

At the same time, insurance costs and Cell phones With comfortable life not connected.

But the Office notes that total amounts expenses and income matter less than personal circumstances when measuring life satisfaction.

Good health, Family status and economic activity have greatest influence to a positive assessment of life satisfaction.

The study found that age also matters: young people have highest level life satisfaction than those over 40, but life satisfaction increases again in the following years, decreasing only among 80-year-olds.

INCREASING INCOME

An important factor for the level of life satisfaction is living conditions.

In Britain, those who own their homes or have a mortgage rate their life satisfaction much higher than those who rent.

Households with dependent children are also more satisfied with life than those without children. we're talking about in the study.

While spending is generally more important than earnings, households with incomes between $31,000 and $57,000 would feel happier if their incomes increased.

The Office of Statistics, which is now looking beyond the official GDP figure to try to form a broader picture of the economy, said: “There is no evidence of a statistically significant relationship between household disposable income and overall life satisfaction after controlling for other characteristics [e.g. age, marriage and employment status]".

"You're more likely to have greater life satisfaction if you have more spending, and spending seems to have a higher value than household income for people to obtain satisfaction from life,” the management believes.

HEALTH

Retirement also has a positive impact on Britons' life satisfaction.

At the same time, unemployment or disability has a significant Negative influence, the study says.

Health has a greater impact on life satisfaction than any other characteristic in the analysis. The number of those who have poor health, but report their satisfaction with life, is 5.7 times less than those who have good health.

Health was also an important factor in the last study in 2013. At the same time, marital status now plays a greater role in people’s life satisfaction than it did six years ago.

The Office of Statistics' findings are based on two separate studies: an annual population survey and a separate study of the impact of taxes and benefits.