Drawing a plan in Photoshop. video tutorial Lesson on how to quickly draw a small isometric house in Photoshop

Thanks to everyone who answered the questions. It became clear that the theoretical part of you, my friends, attracts more than anything else. But I’m also glad that you come not only for her :)

I don't promise that articles like mine are the most popular will appear every week, since they take a lot of time to prepare, but I will try to write them regularly.

I received a lot good reviews about a video about how I make collages in Photoshop. Thank you - this is not tricky knowledge that can help you with this difficult matter– like a renovation :).

And today I will show you another Photoshop “trick”. This is me directly revealing “all the secrets” of the behind-the-scenes work, and telling how I draw my beautiful plans, also in PHOTOSHOP! At the end of the article you will find the most real video video on this topic - welcome!

Yes, yes... and this is possible.

4 years ago, in an article that listed all the current favorite computer programs, I mentioned that programs from the Adobe package - good substitutes paper and pencil.

That is, our monitor screen becomes a kind of A3 sheet, and our mouse becomes a pencil.

The only BUT is that in order to draw a room plan that will look beautiful and not just consist of cubes, you need a small preparatory work carry out - create your own set of furniture.

You can draw furniture catalogs yourself, you can download them from the Internet, or you can just draw squares and circles, the only thing that’s important is to sign them. I created such a catalog many years ago, and I’m just adding to it today - it’s very convenient.

In my practice, working in FS does not replace drawing by hand and building architectural plans according to GOST, I just really love this presentation for conceptual solutions.
I share from the bottom of my heart :)

Plans in Photoshop can be “drawn” as beautiful, detailed and convenient - as much as you have the patience, perseverance and desire.
The main question you will have to ask yourself is why do I need this now, what do I want to draw on the plan.
And off we go!

What knowledge is needed before starting work - ALL of which we have already talked about: knowledge of scale, how to build room plans, and of course, knowledge of Photoshop. Since I will honestly say that in the lesson I do not explain absolutely BASIC knowledge about how to use the program.

Who will benefit from the video clip? For those who definitely have Photoshop, they know it a little (or very well), for those who are ready to open new horizons and simplify their life a little bit. Because drawing a plan on paper is great, but it will take a non-professional a lot more time to get everything nice and neat.

And such plans are not at all embarrassing to show not only to builders, but to friends and comrades!
They can be stored for as long as desired, supplemented depending on the “development of the situation,” and complicated depending on the “tasks.”

Let's watch a video master class on how to draw a room plan in Photoshop.

Another lesson on how to process objects in Photoshop using design skills.

First you need to find a suitable picture with which we will work.

I decided to use photography. You can also use your photos freely. Open our photo and start processing it. The first step I'm going to do is remove all the blemishes from the surface of the tomato (we have a damaged area on the top left side).

Take the tool CloneStampTool(Brush: 40 px, Opacity: 100%) and hold down the button Alt– the cursor will change to the target. Click on the point that you want to use as a sampling point. This will be used as a reference point during the cloning process. Click and move the mouse to where we want to transfer the cloned image. When you draw, a cross appears on the original image area, and a circle appears where you transfer the image area.

Great, after removing the imperfections, I would like to add some highlights to the surface of the tomato. Set white as your foreground color, then grab the tool PenTool and try to create the same area as you see in the picture below.

Let's rasterize this shape using Layer > Rasterize > Shape. Then apply the filter Filter > Blur > GaussianBlur with the following settings:

After applying the filter, the result should be as follows:

Great, set the opacity to 60%, then take the tool eraserTool and a soft-edged round brush with a 40px radius to do the cleansing work.

Add a few more highlights in the same way. Try experimenting with the layer opacity for each layer to get better results.

We merge all layers with highlights into one, in some places the highlights turned out to be higher than the leaves, this should not happen, so just use the tool eraserTool to remove glare from the leaf area.

The result should be the same as the image below:

After this I would like to add a reflection from the white surface on the tomato. For this effect, create a new layer, then use the tool BrushTool(brush with soft edges and radius 125px) and draw a curved line white, as you see in my picture:

Then change the layer style to Overlay and set the opacity to 57%.

Looks better than before, doesn't it? Let's move on to the next step. It's time to process the green leaves. We merge all layers into one and use the tool DodgeTool(Brush: 100px, Range: Midtones, Exposure: 30%) to make the dark part of the tomato stem, which is located in the middle, a little lighter.

Next I would like to reduce the length of the tomato stem. Using the tool BrushTool and a round brush with clear edges of size 20px and remove part of the stem, as shown in my picture below:

Now it's time to improve the depth of color, relief and texture of the stem. It will be better to add contrast between the green stem and the red tomato. For this effect we use the tool PolygonalLassoTool to highlight the stem area.

Then click Ctrl+ C to copy it to a new layer where we can now experiment with the green stem and leaves. First we need to adjust the balance and saturation of the green color. We use Image > Adjustments > Levels(or press Ctrl+ L) and set the following settings for the Green and Blue channels:

Your result should be similar to mine:

After this we apply Filter > Sharpen > Sharpen:

Great, now we need to add some light green lines ( # dddd84 ). Take the tool BrushTool and a soft round brush with a 1px radius to add these lines on a new layer.

Then we use the tool BlurTool to blur them a little, and change the layer display mode to Overlay. We got contrast in the leaf area.

Let's move on to the next step. Now I would like to add a white gradient to the leaves area. Let's take the tool again PolygonalLassoTool and create the area that you want to process and fill it with a gradient from white to transparent.

Add more gradients to other parts of the tomato stem.

Remove selection using Ctrl+ D. Looks better, doesn't it? And the last touch we need to do is to add a shadow from the bottom of the tomato. We merge all layers into one. Then we take the tool again PolygonalLassoTool to create a selection, which you can see in my picture below, and fill it with color #9 c2 c2 c.

After that, remove the selection and apply a filter Filter > Blur > GaussianBlur with the same settings like these:

What You'll Be Creating

Welcome to another tutorial in the Photoshop in 60 Seconds series, where you'll learn the techniques and capabilities of Photoshop in just a minute!

Photoshop in 60 Seconds: Architectural Drawing

Architects are highly qualified specialists who create unusual technical drawings of buildings and interiors. And you can achieve this with Photoshop actions. Browse GraphicRiver's huge selection of Photoshop Actions for instant photo transformations that will help you transform your photography instantly.

Watch the video below to learn how to create a great technical drawing, and also download the Architectural Drawing Action discussed in this video.

Create an Architectural Drawing in Photoshop

Open your original image in Photoshop. Here I am using a beautiful interior design image taken from Pixabay.

To access the Actions panel, go Window - Operations(Window > Actions). Next, in the drop-down menu. select option Download Operations(Load Actions) to load the action you want.

Before using the effect, read all instructions carefully. Create a new layer and use the tool Brush(Brush Tool (B), paint over the areas where you want to focus the drawing. Then click the Play(Play).

Depending on how complex the action is, it may take several minutes to load. When you're done, save the result as is or continue experimenting with the effect using additional steps.

You can see the final result in the screenshot below.

Watch the video above to see how it works!

A little information

Want to learn more from our experts. Then check out the following lessons:

60 seconds?!

This video tutorial is a series of short video tutorials on Envato Tuts+ in which we introduce you to a variety of topics in just 60 seconds - just enough to keep you interested. Leave your comments about this video and what else you'd like to see next in 60 seconds!

Creating an image is a whole process and for me, pressing the shutter is only a small part of the journey to a photo of sufficient quality to publish. In this article, which is part two, continuing the material, I will show my photo processing process.

All photographers face challenges with high dynamic range scenes. Landscape and architectural photography is no exception. I shoot as many frames as necessary to cover the entire dynamic range of the frame. For architecture and interiors, 3 frames is enough for most situations.

The photo above required 9 photos - with exposure bracketing -2, 0 and +2, as well as additional series for the lower half of the room and for the ceiling. Additional shots also help me get rid of people in the frame.

You must not forget...

• Shoot in RAW to maintain maximum source flexibility; We're not sports photographers shooting a stream of images where JPEG is much more appropriate.
• Hold on low level ISO.
• Use one white balance setting for your entire series of photos.
• Use the heaviest possible tripod and a remote release, wired or wireless.

The photograph of Canary Wharf tube station shown above is made up of three frames. The goal in this shot was to have a well-exposed dark interior, a bright metal escalator, and a surprisingly bright dome. Each layer contains a correctly exposed portion of the composition.

Main camera

My Canon 5D Mark II camera with a 17mm TS-E tilt-shift lens copes wonderfully with architectural and landscape photography tasks. I use exposure bracketing largely because the front element of my lens is convex and does not allow the use of filters. I also always have the EF24 f/1.4 and EF50mm f/1.2 lenses in my bag. My tripod is a bit strange - Gitzo legs with a Manfrotto ball head.

Computer and monitor

I do all my image work on a dual-core Mac Pro with 24 gigabytes. random access memory. I often work with images larger than a gigabyte, so a large amount of RAM is a necessity. I have a Dell 27″ Ultrasharp monitor that is calibrated using a Spyder 3 Elite.

Before any important image work, I calibrate my monitor.

Importing images

I understand that many of you use various automation tools such as Lightroom, iPhoto, Picassa and others. Call me a Luddite, but I hate being left without control over the process, so I use a completely manual import procedure.

At the location, I merge the photos onto 2 hard drives and upon returning, I copy about 100 gigabytes of information at a time to a pre-prepared location. The folder structure shown on the left has served me well for 10 years now.

You may notice that my finished files are prefixed with a pixel size for different sites; at 500px - 900 pixels wide, and for 1x.com - 950 pixels. I also add "bw" to the filenames with black and white images. This naming system makes it easier to find the images you need on your hard drive.

Selection

Of the many photo apps I have installed, I use Adobe CS5 on a daily basis. It's reliable workhorse for working with images.

Previewing and selection is fastest in Bridge. On the right, I select the images that interest me. Once I'm satisfied with my selection, I use the filter on the left panel to show only what I've selected.

Camera Raw

If you're like me, you have all of your camera's settings turned off or set to 0. Here in Camera Raw, I make multiple settings for all of my photos designed to compose a single image.

• Make sure you import your photos in the same color space as in camera. In my case, this is Adobe RGB, which is wider than the Internet standard sRGB. Work with the highest quality source, and then convert to a target format, for example for the Internet.
• Edit photos in 16-bit mode
• Select the best and most correctly exposed frame and set the white balance based on it
• If there are hot pixels, use the Recovery slider to compensate. Press + simultaneously while moving it and you will see the position of these points on a black background!
• If the “Return” slider had to be moved too much, compensate for this with the “Exposure” slider by pressing + again at the same time.
• The same combination can be used when correcting the black level - raise the black level so that there are no dropouts.
• Then select all the images and sync the white balance for all the images in the series via the menu in the top left corner.
• Then open all the images in Photoshop

Working in Photoshop

I have a pretty strict workspace in Photoshop and the editing process is pretty simple.

I have a number of actions for different tasks, such as changing the size, color space, etc. The individual tasks I perform can be divided as follows:

• Combining Exposure Bracketed Images into One Layer
• Joining the images that make up a panorama
• Saving a composed image to a Photoshop PSD file
• Use masks to highlight parts of an image that require separate color, contrast, or exposure adjustments. An example would be treating the sky separately from the building in the foreground
• Saving this image with all created layers
• Merge layers and crop if necessary
• Sharpening
• Preservation new version finished image in Photoshop PSD format
• Resizing to suit the intended use, for example up to 900 pixels for 500px.com
• Convert to color space sRGB and 8bit color depth
• Saving in JPEG format. Don't forget to prefix "900px" to the file name to make it easier to find later.

Manual layer blending

First, place your differently exposed footage into one project as layers. You can do this automatically through the menu File - Scripts - Load files into stack(File > Scripts > Load Files Into A Stack).

Many Photoshop users are afraid of using masks, selections, etc., but it's actually quite simple. I will show!

Choose the selection tool of your choice. I used the Quick Selection tool, marked on the left in the picture. Then press to add a selection and to remove it. As you can see, I have highlighted the correctly exposed dome of Canary Wharf tube station.

This selection is very uneven and it will be better if we make it smoother and more elegant. To do this, click on the button "Refine Edge"(Refine Edge), also marked at the top of the picture above.

The red mask is very useful for viewing what is selected and not selected, but you need to enable this option. Click on the drop down menu "View"(View) at the top of the dialog "Edge Refinement" and select "Overlay"(Overlay).

We use the Refine Radius Tool brush indicated on the left. This will draw the edge of the selection and Photoshop will refine the boundaries of what should and should not be selected.

Increase the brush size in the option "Size"(Size) and generously “paint over” the space near the border. Walk along all the borders!

The edge of the mask looks much more gradient now! Click OK to save this selection.

Now we need to create a layer mask. The mask will make part of the layer visible and other parts invisible.

Click the button "Add vector mask"(Add Vector Mask) indicated in the figure.

You can see the black and white thumbnail appearing next to my layer thumbnail (below). Black is invisible. It's simple. Anything that is not black will miss the corresponding layer's image. In my picture, the dome mask is white, so only the dome will be visible. This is good because the layers below will remain visible in addition to the dome from that layer.

I went ahead and repeated the steps to create the mask for the escalator and dome surround, as can be seen in the picture below. Layers at 100% visibility are too hard, so I lowered the opacity of the dome layer to 80% and the escalator and dome surround layer to 70%. This takes a little more time, but is a very flexible method of representing the wide dynamic range of a frame.

An important takeaway from this section is the power and flexibility of layers and masks. I'll handle colors and contrast in the same way in the next section.

Merge your differently exposed layers through “Layers -> Merge Layers”(Layer > Flatten Image) and save as a Photoshop document. You now have a properly exposed version of your shot. A base to return to. This is useful if you then want to convert the photo to black and white.

Editing: Colors and Contrast

I will demonstrate this work with a still from Kolmanskop, Namibia. I superimposed the processed frame on top of the original to show the advantages of the RAW format for processing.

If you tried to process a given frame as a whole, it would probably be a mess and improving color and contrast in one area would worsen them in another. Work with in separate parts images are closer to me and are achieved again with the help of layers and masks.

Creating image layers using masks.

• Select part of the main layer.
• Refine Edge
• Copy selection
• Paste it into a new layer, name it something clear
• Repeat for any areas that require special attention.

I'll show my process for processing color and contrast using sand as an example.

Saturation

Select the layer you will edit. I selected the "Sand" layer. Add an adjustment layer "Hue/Saturation" like on a picture.

Check the box next to (Use Previous Layer to Create Clipping Mask) to limit your edits to the “Sand” layer only. You'll get a new layer with a little arrow pointing down to show it.

I selected the "Increased Saturation More" preset option.

The sand should turn warm orange, so I'll add another one. adjustment layer - Photo filter(Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Photo Filter), first selecting the “Sand” layer and not forgetting the checkbox "Use previous layer to create clipping mask"(Use Previous Layer to Create Clipping Mask).

I chose the Warming Filter (85), setting its density to 50 for a fuller effect.

Finally, I added a curves layer for contrast. Select the “Sand” layer and from the already familiar menu, add a curves layer with the “Strong Contrast (RGB)” parameter (Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Curves… - select "Strong Contrast (RGB))

At this point you should save the file with all layers in Photoshop Document format.

Alignment

I have 2 ways. Using the ruler shown on the left is very convenient and quick. It is enough to highlight an important horizontal or vertical line in the image. Or this can be done using rotate mode - “Edit” - “Change” - “Rotate”(Edit > Transform > Rotate)

Cropping

A simple task, but difficult to undo once the image is saved. So I recommend saving the file before cropping.

Sharpness

On the issue of choice best method There are many copies of sharpening that have been broken and I personally have tried probably all the methods, but in my opinion the most elegant method is the “High Pass filter” color shift method. The result is sharp, but without artifacts or unevenness. I do not sharpen after resizing.

• Duplicate the layer via “Image” - “Duplicate”(Image > Duplicate)…
• Apply a color shift filter. A radius of 1.0 is enough for a well-focused image of about 10-20 megapixels. “Filters” - “Other” - “Color Shift”(Filter > Other > High Pass)…
• Set the blending mode to "Overlay"(Overlay).

Preservation

“Merge layers” in the “Layers” menu (Layer > Flatten Image) and save as new document Photoshop with the appropriate name.

You now have your edited image in full resolution. When you prepare a photo for publication or for participation in a competition, this is the version you will return to to resize, save in JPEG format and transfer.

Change of size

I reduce JPEG files to various sizes for Blogs, Flicker, 500px and 1x sites, and competitions.

Preservation

Final saving to JPEG requires conversion to sRGB color space and 8-bit color depth. These attributes are standard for the Internet. If you don't do this, your images simply won't look the same to other people as you prepared them on your computer.

• « Image" - "Mode" - "8 bits/channel" ( Image > Mode > 8 Bits/Channel)
• “Edit” - “Convert to Profile”(Edit > Convert to Profile)…

That's all, that's how it is general outline my photo editing process.

I'm about to do a part 3 on professional black and white conversion, so stay tuned!

Very often, for all kinds of projects, we need to draw buildings from scratch. Be it driving directions, teasers, game locations, etc. In this tutorial I will try to explain how quickly you can draw a small isometric house in Photoshop

Step 1.

Open Photoshop and create a new file of arbitrary size. Now we need to make guidelines for the isometric projection. Using the Line Tool (L) on a new layer, create a horizontal line.

Step 2.

Step 3.

Step 4.

Duplicate our lines (Alt+Click) as much as necessary.

Step 5.

So we have some guides. It is better to group them, and under no circumstances glue them together, as they will need to be moved. Now let's move on to drawing the house itself. Create a new one, take the Polygonal Lasso (L) layer and draw a side wall along our lines.

Step 6.

Fill the selection with light gray(this will be the illuminated side of the building).

Step 7

Sometimes you need to correct the lower part of the wall; to do this, click on the layer in the Layers window while holding Ctrl to get a selection. Move it to the very bottom, while holding Shift, and delete what is unnecessary using Delete.

Step 8

Let's add the rest of the walls of our building. To do this, we simply duplicate our first walls and cut off what is not necessary.

Step 9

We draw the roof and foundation in the same way. We simply duplicate the layers with the walls and cut off the unnecessary ones using the Ctrl+click selection in the layers window.

Step 10

Then, using the same Line tool, we create light and dark edges on the walls and roof.

Step 11

For volume, we go over the roof and walls with Burn and the Dodge Tool.

Step 12

We draw windows. Again, you can take our walls as a basis, copy them and remove the excess :)