Turukhansk. Lower Tunguska. Polar sun. Lower Tunguska River. Description Tunguska River
The Lower Tunguska River flows in Siberia, Russian Federation.
It flows to the right of the Yenisei, being its tributary. Passes through the Irkutsk region and Krasnoyarsk region.
History of the river
Russian explorers appeared on the banks of the Lower Tunguska in 1607. They named the river after the Tungus tribe who lived at that time. The Tungus themselves, and now the Evenks, call the river Katenga. The Russians did not build settlements and settle new lands due to the harsh climate.
Source of the Lower Tunguska
It flows out of the city of Turukhansk, where there is access to other, larger water arteries. The river flows through very picturesque lands. Along the entire course there are rifts, rapids, and stones, which are located alone along the entire bed of the Lower Tunguska.
Lower Tunguska on the map photo
Characteristics of Lower Tunguska
The structure of the river and its valley allowed scientists to identify 2 sections in the structure of the Lower Tunguska:
- Lower - from Preobrazhenka to the very mouth;
- Upper - starts from the source to the village of Preobrazhenka.
The upper part stretches for 580 kilometers, passing through a wide valley with gentle slopes and clay-sand deposits. The current speed here is not very high and rarely reaches 6 meters per second. The length of the river is 2989 km.
Lower Tunguska river photo
The second part of the current is characterized by flowing through a very narrow and deep valley with high and rocky banks. It is here that the channel takes on widening in many places, which in shape can resemble lakes. Sometimes their distance is 20 kilometers. Here the Lower Tunguska has many rapids that were created by crystalline formations.
The depth of the river is quite high and ranges from 6 to 10 meters. On the banks there are kurums and screes of large stones, the sizes of which range from 50 centimeters to one and a half meters. There are many whirlpools on the river, which locals call korchagi. The river creates sinkholes up to 100 meters deep. They are very dangerous for ships that pass here. Additional threat floods are created for the ships.
Lower Tunguska in winter photo
The climate of Lower Tunguska is subarctic. Average annual temperature sub-zero, the shores are covered with permafrost, their depth reaches 200 meters. Frosts in winter are severe and there is little precipitation.
River mode
The river current averages from 5 to 7 kilometers per hour, although it accelerates significantly near the Big Rapids. In the very middle of the river there is a drainage of water that falls from a cliff. The river bottom is strewn with underwater rocks, which are lined up in ridges, mainly along the right bank, gradually changing their location to transverse. There are also underwater stones on the left bank, but there are much fewer of them.
such different shores Lower Tunguska photo
Ice covers the pond in October and lasts until May. Then comes the flood, which is different for the upper and lower parts. The first lasts until June, and the second until July.
The river is fed by snow, which begins to melt in the spring, and by summer rains. It practically does not feed on groundwater, since the shores are in a state of eternal cold. In winter - low water. The ice stays in narrow places for a long time, and the water rises up to 35 meters above the boundary line. The ice drift passes rapidly, leaving marks on the rocks.
Fish and Animals
The number of fish species is not large - about 20 species. The most numerous are perch, taimen, roach, and pike. Characteristic feature is that the fish grows large and weighs an average of 9-12 kilograms.
Cities
There are no cities, there are large villages: Turukhask, Tura and Erbagachen. Between them you can find many smaller settlements, but they are quite isolated from each other, which is due to the peculiarities of the climate and climate in these parts.
Tura village photo
Tributaries of the Lower Tunguska
The main branch of the river is considered to be Kochechum, which has a rather large water basin. Its area is 100 thousand square kilometers. Other tributaries worth noting are: Yambukan; Taimura; Nidym; Teteya; Nepa; Uchami and many others.
Tourism on the river
Travelers enjoy rafting on various boats, but they prefer to do it not along the river, but its tributaries. Lower Tunguska itself is used as a section of the final route, or as an addition to walks. Rafting is carried out mainly along Vivi, Kochechum, Severnaya, Erachimo. Rafting on the river starts from Tura, from where there are regular flights to Krasnoyarsk. Another type of tourism is fishing.
- The development of this area began between the 16th and 17th centuries, which is reflected in the numerous names that the river has. It was always called Tungusskaya, adding an epithet to it - either Monastyrskaya, or Trinity, or Mangazeya.
- The river was described in literary work V. Shishkov, which was called the Ugryum River, as the author called the Lower Tunguska, along which he rafted as part of the expedition.
The Lower Tunguska River has the glory of being the first of the Tunguska Rivers, along which our compatriots of the 17th century “started” deep into the Central Siberian Plateau. Alas, not only navigation, but even tourist rafting along this watercourse is significantly complicated. And yet, airports await guests on the river riviera - in two municipalities with rich history. The river is famous for its amazing fishing - both fishing and hunting, and gathering. This water is nature's rich storehouse.
general description
The Lower Tunguska River is 2,989 kilometers long. And its widest place is the mouth (1.5 kilometers). The average diameter is 800 meters. The area of the water surface is 473,000 square kilometers. The depth reaches 100 meters (below the Great Threshold). The Lower Tunguska crosses several districts of the Irkutsk region and Krasnoyarsk Territory(mainly Evenki autonomy). General direction– northwest (there are 2 very sharp turns on the route). The water flow is 3,680 cubic meters per second (high). Food is snow and rain. There are about 100 branches in the system (not counting streams). The longest and deepest are Yeika, Kochechum, Yambukan, Vivi, Tutonchana and Erochimo. All of them flow from a more elevated shore, which is, in fact, an ascent to the Putorana plateau. Most often, these reservoirs are used for rafting.
The Lower Tunguska River was formed simultaneously with the entire Central Siberian Plateau, which joined Eurasia during the era of dinosaurs. Before this, the plateau was a separate continent. The river is a seam separating the main massif of the plateau from the elevated pieces that make up Putorana. First Russian description The Lower Tunguska River was left to us by Cossack travelers and trappers (fur hunters - “soft junk”). The conversation turned to the inhabitants of the nearest Yenisei forts - courageous Old Believers who decided with permission Russian government move further east, into the depths of Central Siberia. The oldest scientific notes in our state concerning the named area clearly make it clear that from ancient times until the beginning of the 17th century, the Lower Tunguska River was located in the zone of settlement of the Evenks and related endangered peoples - the Ketos (Keto) and Selkups.
In the old days, this entire ethno-community was called Tungus. Hence the countless hydronyms with the second word “Tunguska”. That information was confirmed by current ethnographic and archaeological research. By the way, about the hydronym. The indicated “Tunguska” watercourse turned out to be the northernmost among the Yenisei branches similar to it. That is why it is called “Nizhny”. As for our ancestors, their first centers in this part of the plateau were Turukhansk and Tura. The first was christened after the shaman’s “rod” - turukan (there was a pagan sanctuary here before the Russians arrived). The name of the second one (it stands on the Kochechumo River) coincides with the name of the siege tower in the Old Russian language. With the help of this assault equipment, the last Tatars were driven out of here (they founded the settlement). Only later did the smaller current municipalities emerge. The active transport use of the Lower Tunguska River led to further (even more eastern) development of the river banks. ABOUT large ships there was never any talk. The water road is complicated by too many rapids and rifts. But shallow-bottomed plows allowed the Yenisei Cossack rowers to free these picturesque spaces from the traces of the Siberian Khanate (the last Tatar robbers).
The Tungus stopped paying yasak to them and “redirected” the tribute to the Russian Empire, enrolling in its “brothers”. Old Believers from various Russian provinces actively settled here. None of the wars that have taken place since then have directly affected these fabulously calm lands.
Of all the tragic episodes - the execution of the Bolsheviks by the White Guards. This happened on a rock 18 km above Turukhansk. And since then she has had the “nickname” Death the Rock. Since the beginning of the last century, there has been a clear outflow of the Russian population. In the era of “stagnation” (during the period of agricultural decline), the speed of this depressive process increased. Apart from Turukhansk, Preobrazhenka, Tura and Podvoloshino, not a single inhabited area extends here for more than 1.5 kilometers, with no more than 2 streets. The economic use of the water “artery” was never found. Recently, the country has been nurturing plans for the construction of the Evenki hydroelectric power station in the desired channel, and if the idea is realized, then the said energy hydroelectric complex will be the largest in the Russian Federation. In the future, the Lena-Nizhny Tunguska Canal could lead to the mouth of the Nizhnyaya Tunguska River (Turukhansky pier). Survey work on the project was carried out in 2011. The fact is that between Kirensk (located on the Lena) and the nearest Lower Tunguska bend there are only 15 kilometers. However, the bank of the Lena turned out to be much higher than expected. As a result of the measurements, the construction project was declared inappropriate. As a result, the river still has only recreational and commercial significance.
Source and mouth of the Nizhnyaya Tunguska River
The source of the Nizhnyaya Tunguska River is administratively located on the border of the Ust-Kutsky and Katangsky districts of the Irkutsk region. It flows among the middle heights of the hills. They are covered with “middle” taiga. The source of the Nizhnyaya Tunguska River is a watercourse up to 0.5 meters wide, descending into a wide valley with sloping banks. It flows from a height that is the statistical average for all sections of the Central Siberian Plateau. The slopes in the upper reaches are clayey-sandy.
The mouth of the Nizhnyaya Tunguska River goes southeast of the regional center of Turukhansk in the Krasnoyarsk region. Even further south is Monastyrsky Island (it will be discussed in the section on attractions). The width of the mouth entrance is 1.5 kilometers. On the north-western bank of the branch, the peninsular (borrowing) part of Turukhansk is found. It completely emerges from under the Yenisei water in the summer.
Basin of the Lower Tunguska River
The entire length of the riverbed is covered with dense taiga. Before Preobrazhenka, the Lower Tunguska River descends between the hills and moves along a wide valley with gentle coastlines on both sides. This section is recognized as the upper one. It is 580 “most winding” kilometers. Moreover, the river acquires a width of up to 125 meters shortly before Podvoloshino. Let us add that at a certain episode the flow of the Lower Tunguska River comes close to the Lena. For example, it is separated from Kirensk by only 15 kilometers. The current speed here is low - up to 0.6 meters per second, and even then only on the shallows themselves. However, the stream cannot be called completely flat. The middle section is the longest and is rich in larger rifts (they will be indicated in the next section). That is, from Preobrazhenka the flow of the Lower Tunguska River enters a deep basin. There are high ravines and sometimes bare rocks as sides. Lake-like expansions occur. Sometimes they extend for 20 kilometers. In this section, the river “sucks up” the waters of Eyka, Kochechumo, Yambukan, Vivi and Tutonchany (at the mouth of the village of the same name). Saturated with water. The central section ends Great Threshold(near the village of the same name).
This is also the mouth of one of the six deepest Lower Tunguska tributaries - the Erochimo. Immediately behind it, the greatest depths await you - 60-100 meters. In the lower reaches, the Lower Tunguska River basin absorbs the remaining branches. Closer to the “finish”, the river passes by another tract - Death Rocks. Having hit this cliff, the stream sharply deviates to the opposite side. By the way, here on the slopes you should observe kurums or screes of stones up to 1.5 meters in diameter (the locals call them “kuries” or “corgis”). Beyond the mouth of the river. The northern reservoir flows among very steep limestone cliffs. The lower basin of the Lower Tunguska River is famous for its largest expansions, as well as the appearance of islands in them, edged with low banks. The biggest one is the last one. It's called Monastic. Along the water line there is a towpath made of cobblestones 10-40 cm in diameter. And the butterbur grass clings to the river itself, collecting more dew in the morning than others.
Sights of the Lower Tunguska River
Podvoloshino village
In this corner of the Fatherland, the course of the Lower Tunguska River has 100-125-meter distances between the banks. However, on northern half The streets here are narrowing again. The settlement itself stretches along it for 3 kilometers. WITH opposite side it rests on a ridge of low hills. The banks are raised by no more than 2 meters. In the 17th century, the Chechuysky portage from the Lena “finished” here (the road to Chechuysk still exists). That’s why the settlement appeared here. On this moment it has 200 households. The village is known for being most often exposed to the destructive effects of floods. As the water recedes, more and more deep cracks are found in the soil. Tourists may be interested in general stores and meat; it can be purchased from local hunters.
Village Preobrazhenka
This settlement is one and a half times longer than the first one, but 2 times narrower than it. The river here is already 150-180 meters wide. The place is famous for the fact that the upper reaches of the reservoir end here. Its middle course is a rather deep canyon. Sometimes with rocky shores. This landscape begins here. That is, the landscape is “transformed.” This process formed the basis of the toponym in the title. At the moment, 440 people live here. Inside the residential sectors there is Domashnee Lake. To the west, several more bodies of water adjoin local streets. During high water, the village is sometimes completely flooded. Ice drift often cuts off neighborhoods from all roads.
Local history museum of the village of Erbogachen
At this point, the Lower Tunguska River leads the traveler to a museum organized in a tiny village, whose name is in the title of the paragraph. It is the northernmost exposure of the Irkutsk region. It has recently been renovated. There are 13,000 exhibits in the local halls - from the bones of mammoths and the oldest rhinoceroses on the planet to artifacts of the Paleolithic population, as well as stuffed modern animals and birds. People bring to the ethnographic department ancient tools of rural labor that they inherited. They were made at the end of the 19th century. What makes these storage items unique is that they are all in working order. That is, the institution can actually hold master classes. At one time, a traveler originally from here organized the establishment.
Tura village
It makes sense to stop rafting on the Lower Tunguska River at the mouth of the Kochechumo River. The distance from edge to edge in the village of the same name is 2.6 kilometers. It also has a mini-airport. Even 2. This is the former center of the so-called Ilimpei tundra (an area with a ridge of bald hills). It appeared on the map in 1924 - on the site of the Evenki reindeer herders’ camp, where Savateev’s merchant estate also grew up (a residential hut and a barn for goods). It's all on the elevated side. A year later, 2 state farm bases appeared, and in 1938 Tura acquired the status of an urban-type settlement. The Kochechumo embankment has the best observation deck. A church, a technical school, a palace of culture and other infrastructure were built here for the Evenks. At one time, Tura became the capital of the Evenki district within the Krasnoyarsk Territory. The main mass of buildings are 2-story barracks made of stained wood. Of the 7,000 inhabitants, there are not only Evenks, but also a small Yakut diaspora.
Irgakta Island
We continue parking on the Lower Tunguska River below. Irgakta (Veal) Island has a name derived from the Evenki word “gadfly”. Once upon a time, cattle were grazed here, and the said insect, as you know, loves it. The length of the object is 6.5 kilometers. Along the perimeter there is a wide strip of large pebble shallows. A piece of land is covered with taiga vegetation. Its central line is occupied by a chain of lakes, through which 3 oxbow lakes pass. Around the ponds there are swampy clearings with low-growing willows and reeds. This favorite place for those who travel with a tent.
Big Threshold tract
In this location, parking on the Lower Tunguska River is simply necessary. After all, if you have little experience in extreme water sports, then you will have to bypass the long large rocky rapids at the mouth of Yerochimo. It should be noted that in the village of the same name, stretching only 300 meters, there is an operating hydro-measuring station. By the way, the first “raftsman” crossed this place directly on the water only in 1927! The water speed here reaches 5 meters per second. In the lower reaches there are also rapids “Sakko”, “Vivinsky” and “Uchamsky”. After their sequence, the depth becomes 100 meters.
Death the Rock
Rafting on the Lower Tunguska River at this point should be varied with landscape photography. In the area of several stream branches, the tourist will see another recreation with a frightening name for the waterman. The narrative is connected with a stone ravine of great height and expressiveness. There is a hint about the history of the name of the location in the first chapter of the longread. Here we will tell the story itself. Today's legend connects the rock with the massacre of the White Guards. In July 1918, they executed several Bolsheviks here. The fact is that in the days of the fall of Soviet power in Krasnoyarsk most of local party members fled to the north. These people grabbed documents and a supply of gold from the Krasnoyarsk branch of the State Bank. The red detachment numbered 500 people. Among them are T. Markovsky, A. Lebedeva, G. Weinbaum, as well as other Bolsheviks (Krasnoyarsk streets today bear their names). The chase overtook the heroes in the village of Monastyrskoye (that was the name of Turukhansk at that time). Party comrades divided into several groups and disappeared into the taiga. Eyewitnesses say that when they were caught, many were thrown off the cliff. That's why she received the nickname "Death". True, there is another version of the birth of the oronym. In more old times Russian settlers rafted along the Lower Tunguska. All the way to the Yenisei. Many did not manage to reach the end - the current threw them right onto this geological formation. The fact is that several whirlpools are seething near it at once. People simply had no chance of salvation. Over time, such a formidable name became attached to the coastal ledge. Even now, rafting participants are warned about the danger lurking here.
Regional center Turukhansk and Monastyrsky Island
We are talking about the only area where the protection of the Lower Tunguska River should be organized. After all, Turukhansk is the most populated place on the river presented to your attention. Along the Yenisei, and then the Lower Tunguska, it stretches for 6.4 kilometers, and this distance is 3 times the length of most settlements in the riverbed. “Megapolis” has a bizarrely shaped “port” peninsula protruding into the Yenisei (2.6 kilometers). The root (non-flooded) part of it receives motor ships descending all the way to Dudinka. There is also an airport here, which looks more like a large 3-story wooden barracks. The town is surrounded by colorful spruce-larch and pine-birch thickets. Although the coast is not raised very high, there are no sandbanks anymore. There are 3 microdistricts in the city, slightly isolated from the main neighborhoods. For some time, Turukhansk bore the name Monastyrsky (now it remains only on the island lying opposite - monastic monks lived both in the settlement and on the neighboring piece of land). The history of Turukhansk began in 1662. Initially, it stood at the confluence of the Turukhan River into the Yenisei. The second name is New Mangazeya. The town had stone and wooden church. One of the hundreds of the Yenisei Cossack army (whose leader ruled the settlement) was stationed here. Aboriginal people lived there, as well as Russian fishermen and barter merchants. As a rule, all are Old Believers. There were no peasants - farming never developed in harsh conditions. Mail was delivered once a month from Yeniseisk. By 1822, the town fell into decay, once again becoming a provincial settlement. Dissidents were exiled here. And after another 90 years, the bulk of the Russian population leaves here. The fact is that in 1910 Turukhansk was plundered and burned by robbers. New Turukhansk was reborn on the site of the village of Monastyrskoye (now this is Turukhansk, and inherited the name of the village big Island at the mouth of “our” river). Moreover, since 1930 this small town has received a harsh reputation as a labor camp. After 11 years, some of the Volga Germans were deported here. As a result, today the descendants of a rather diverse population live here, most of whom are the great-grandchildren and great-great-grandchildren of the Yenisei Cossacks. There is a hotel, a recreation center (there is also a disco), a bathhouse, several pharmacies and retail shops. IN good weather youth stretches a volleyball net.
Monastyrsky Island in largest diameter 5.6 kilometers. It has the shape of a triangle slightly curved on all sides, separated from the eastern bank of the river by a channel of the same name. It is densely covered with a network of streams, oxbow lakes and elongated lakes. On the water's edge and around all reservoirs there are fishing meadows and small swamps, favored by fishermen and duck hunting enthusiasts. Forest grows around these objects. It consists of spruce, larch and marsh-meadow varieties of mini-shrubs
Tourism and recreation on the Lower Tunguska River
The Lower Tunguska River is located in the cold-temperate zone continental climate, in the dark coniferous taiga belt. This is a paradise for collectors of so-called “northern” berries, and there have never been any problems with mushrooms here. Most of all, the Lower Tunguska region attracts hunters and fishermen (more about them below). The river can be reached by planes or helicopters of the Turukhan airline (there are airfields in Turukhansk and Tura). You can also get here by water (the designated settlements have large piers). Tiny villages on the middle section of the current can only be reached by motorized water transport or by helicopter (in flying weather). Finally, this area is not deprived of roads. In the lower reaches there is only one narrow highway: Turukhansk-Selivanikha. In the upper reaches there are “asphalt roads” Kirensk-Verkhnekarelino and Kirensk-Chechuysk-Podvoloshino. It crosses this “artery” and two winter roads. Instead of recreation centers on the described water stream there are only fishing villages.
The Lower Tunguska River will delight speleotourists with the presence of all sorts of shallow grottoes on its banks. In addition, many areas are connected to stream valleys that provide access to interesting heights. So mountain trekking is also acceptable here. And if we’re already talking about extreme tourism, let’s note that single paragliders are already circling over Turukhansk. It has not yet reached the point of commercial offers for tourists, but the local press claims that everything is moving towards that. But equestrian recreation has been developed in the named town for a long time. There are many dirt roads leading from it to the taiga.
Beach holidays on the Lower Tunguska River have a low degree of popularity. At the water's edge there are more stones than sand - you can count the shallows suitable for swimming on your fingers. The most optimal one is located opposite Tura. There are also no places near the reservoir where the water speed drops significantly.
Eventful recreation on the Lower Tunguska River is associated with only one annual ethno-cultural event - “Children of the same river”. The holiday takes place in Turukhansk itself. Its program includes a sightseeing tour for guests and folk festivities at the cultural center.
Rafting on the Lower Tunguska River is a less common activity. The reservoir is often used as the finish line of the route, moving here along its largest tributaries. And if you decide to go on a catamaran, kayak or rafting trip, then they start only from Tura, and no further. It’s just that here is the last airfield, and above there are no roads or runways. In fact, this points to one fact. “Vodniks” who want to pass the entire desired water stream (Verkhnekarelino is already a rafting place) will have to raft all the way to Tura in order to get out of the “wild” Central Siberian Plateau, at least by helicopter. And this will take more than a month. The last test for the water extreme is the Big Threshold near the tiny settlement of the same name (described above). What is the difference between the more acceptable fragment of the channel - Tura - Turukhansk? In the first 100 kilometers you will have to go through several simple rifts. Further on there is a noticeable threshold at the mouth of Nimde. Finally, you will reach the “step” already indicated at the beginning of the paragraph.
Fishing and hunting on the Lower Tunguska River
What kind of fish is popular in the Lower Tunguska River? Fishing will introduce you to nelma, taimen, whitefish, lenok, vendace, whitefish, omul and tugun. More common representatives of the ichthyofauna are also present in the Lower Tunguska water - pike, perch, bream, topwater, burbot and ruffe. The obvious advantage of the river is that you can fish anywhere and anytime. The only restriction is that fish listed in the Red Book of Russia should be released. In addition to the “classic” (coastal) method of fishing leisure time on the Lower Tunguska River, fishing goes well on the islands and from rubber boats. Let us repeat once again that there are no water protection zones at the mentioned hydrological site. However, on the Lower Tunguska River, fishing, carried out in April-June in spawning pits, is carried out only with 2 fishing rods. If you are at ordinary points, fish as you wish, but not with the help of nets and dynamite. Spearfishing and ice fishing are widely used in these places.
Having talked about all the opportunities that the Lower Tunguska River provides, there is no point in describing fishing further. Let's move on to the hunt. The entire water area, stretching for several thousand kilometers, is a continuous hunting ground for a fisherman with a gun. Along the river riviera (both on the left and on the right) there is an abundance of fur - squirrel, muskrat, weasel, ermine, arctic fox, fox and mountain hare. But most of all sable! Of the large predators, wolf, bear, wolverine and elk populations are very common. Commercial avifauna – 4 species of duck, goose, black grouse, hazel grouse and partridge. Only shooting of animals listed in the Red Book of Siberia is prohibited. Among terrestrial inhabitants these are musk deer, manul and flying squirrel. And on the wild one reindeer Only Evenks have the right to hunt. In the bird community, all owls, herons, cranes, swans and flying raptors are forbidden to you. Endangered rodents are usually of no interest to hunters.
Protection of the Lower Tunguska River
The protection of the Lower Tunguska River will be established on a serious basis until 2030. According to the plans of our government, the Nizhnetungussky Nature Reserve should be organized and properly equipped by this date. In this case, at least one of the sections of the river “body” will receive a water protection zone and protection from poachers. Bank protection works require fragments of the riverbed on which populated areas stand. During the flood period, some of them are washed away by water. To a greater extent, protection of the Lower Tunguska River is required only in Turukhansk and Tura, where a lot of picnic lovers like to gather (from campers to fishermen). Some of them do not carry away environmentally hazardous substances (made from polymer compounds) household waste. And sometimes all this is collected by locals - at clean-up days. The fact is that the waters of the Lower Tunguska are recognized as vulnerable to such anthropogenic loads. So far their quality is considered normal. They are used as a source drinking water for the natives of these places. But what will happen to them next?
This description of the Lower Tunguska River aims to show the first waterway along which Russian people explored the Central Siberian Plateau. It was in the lower reaches of the designated hydrological object that our ancestors founded the fort of Turukhansk-Monastyrskoye - a base for further colonization of this Evenki highland...
General characteristics of the Lower Tunguska River
One of the large river streams flowing into the huge river flowing through the mountainous territories of the Central Siberian Plateau, south of the harsh desert plateau with the unusual name Putorana, is the high-water Lower Tunguska. Based on the geological structure of the river valley and the unique character of a large river, it is possible to divide the watercourse into two dissimilar sections. Of these, the upper reaches cover the territory from the source of the river to the village of Preobrazhenka, respectively, the lower reaches continue from the village to the confluence at Turukhansk.
The upper reaches, 580 km long, run from the Angara Ridge to the north along an expanded river valley, geologically composed of clay and sandy sedimentary deposits. Here the river comes close to the Lena River at a distance of 20 km near Kirensk. At Preobrazhenka the river changes, expanding with lake-like floods up to 20 km, replete with rapids, whirlpools and funnels up to one hundred meters, and sharp changes in depth. Near the mouth, the riverbed is surrounded by high limestone rocks, kurums, and boulders.
Why Is that what the Lower Tunguska is called?
Russian pioneers named three rivers Tunguska, Upper, Podkamennaya and Nizhnyaya, respectively, after the Tungus tribe; they themselves called themselves Evenks. The word Tungus is from Tungasket, common among the Yenisei Ostyaks. It means people of three different genera, the reindeer Tungus, the horse and the canine, according to their preferred animals for transportation.
Hydrological regime
The total river flow annually was 116 km³/year. At the same time, closer to the mouth the flow rate is 3680 m³/s. The minimum flow rate is 2861 m³/s (1967), the maximum is 4690 m³/s (1974). The river is fed by precipitation and melting ice and snowfields. In winter, the river flowing through the permafrost has low water and is fed sparingly by groundwater. Observations of the hydrological regime at the Bolshoy Porog station have been taking place for 52 years. The minimum average monthly flow of 27.8 m³/s (March 1969) occurred during an unusually dry winter. The maximum average monthly water flow is up to 31.5 thousand m³/s. was in June 1959.
Tributaries of the Lower Tungus
The main and high-water tributary Kochechum collects water from an area of 100 thousand km². On the right, Severnaya, Yambukan, Tutonchana, Vivi, and Eika flow into the river. Left - Taimura, Erema, Nidym, Nepa, Teteya, Ilimpeya, Uchami.
Economic use of the Lower Tunguska
Navigation here is difficult due to many whirlpools and large rapids. Navigation is facilitated by spring floods and heavy rainfall. The Bolshaya rapid, near the mouth of a deep river, is considered the most dangerous. The Oron was first crossed by steamship in the summer of 1927, the river became navigable between Tura and Turukhansk. Much later, the section to Kislokan became navigable. Timber rafting is carried out along the entire river.
History of the development of Lower Tunguska
In 1601, in the vast expanses of northern Siberia, the trading Mangazeya was founded, in 1607, the large Turukhansk winter hut, and in the same year, the assigned Cossacks collected the first tribute of furs from the Evenks of Lower Tunguska.
For the first time, around 1619, a detachment of ships from Nikifor Penda passed to the upper reaches of the river, followed later by other caravans heading to Yakutia. The winter camps of Taryzhskoe, Letneye, Ilimpiyskoe, Titeyskoe, and Nepskoe were immediately established. The territory was part of the large Mangazeya or Turukhansk district. In 1763, a decree of Catherine II was issued, legalizing the census of foreigners living here and instructing the empress not to harm the indigenous peoples.
By the 19th century, councils of Evenki foreigners began to be formed, grain stores were built, Orthodoxy spread, and scientific geological and ethnographic expeditions were carried out. Later, schools and hospitals for foreigners were built at Orthodox missions and monasteries. The commercial and industrial development of the Lower Tunguska basin is associated with the development of graphite, coal and placer gold. The first map of the territory was compiled during the complex expedition of the Russian Geographical Society in 1873 by A.A. Chekanovsky.
Populated areas on Nizhnyaya Tunguska
Severe climatic conditions, rugged terrain and the difficulty of navigation determined the small number of settlements in the river basin. There are no cities here; the largest villages are Tura and Turukhansk. In addition to them, there is the Kislokan pier, the villages of Preobrazhenka, Erema, Erbogachen, Yukta, Tutonchan, Nidym.
Ecology of Lower Tunguska
The underdeveloped territory of the river basin belongs to areas with low anthropogenic load. Up to 25 thousand people live here; contaminated lands along the banks are estimated at 2%. Pollution occurs during the construction of drilling sites, geophysical work and fires. Water from the Lower Tunguska is used as a source of domestic and drinking water supply.
The Lower Tunguska is the second largest right tributary of the river, flowing across the Central Siberian Plateau entirely within the borders of Russia.The river begins on the Upper Tunguska Upland, the upper reaches are very close to the river. Here is a historical place - a portage along which Russian pioneers dragged their wooden ships from one river to another. However, navigation on the river is fraught with many dangers. There are many rapids in the river bed, the largest ones have their own names (Uchaminsky, Bolshoy, Kosoy). Below the rapids, the depth can drop to 100 m, and powerful whirlpools form. Throughout the river there are long stone screes up to 10 m high. The river breaks into branches, forming islands.
In some places, the Lower Tunguska expands up to 20 km, forming something like lakes.
Freeze-up on the river is long - from October to May, there is a lot of ice, in the spring the duration of the ice drift reaches 10 days, there are constant ice jams with the water level rising to 35-40 m (!), which leads to extensive floods. Ice drift and turbulent currents have a crushing force, eroding banks, polishing rocks and uprooting trees.
The river flows in a subarctic climate zone, where there is an average annual negative temperature, severe frosts in winter, and very little snow falls, which is why the river is widespread along the banks. permafrost, the thickness of which reaches 200 m.
The river received its name in the 17th century. from Russian explorers. Tunguska - because the Tungus (the former name of the Evenks) lived on its banks, and the Lower Tunguska - to distinguish it from the other two Tunguskas - the Middle and the Upper. These names indicated their position relative to the flow of the same Yenisei. The Evenks themselves call the river Katenga.
The Russians first appeared in the lower reaches of the river in 1607, imposed a fur tax on the Evenks, but did not build any large settlements or forts due to the harsh climate and the complete impossibility of farming in permafrost conditions.
The Lower Tunguska almost touches the Lena, but the 15-kilometer canal between them remains a pipe dream.
There is not a single urban settlement on Nizhnyaya Tunguska, only two large villages - Turukhansk and Tura.
In the river basin back in the middle of the 19th century. Large reserves of graphite were discovered, mined by open-pit mining in small quantities. Currently, the field has been declared unprofitable and production has been stopped. Because of the rapids, the Lower Tunguska is navigable only in the upper and lower reaches, and even then only during spring and autumn floods, when boats and barges go to the village of Tura. At the mouth of the river there is the Turukhansk pier.
The river basin is located within the Tunguska coal basin - the largest in Russia, with an area of over 1 million km 2. Under Soviet rule, the development of the local part of the pool was carried out by prisoners from the camps. Currently, production has shifted to the south, where it is possible to extract coal using open-pit mining and transport it to enterprises in the Krasnoyarsk Territory.
The population along the banks of the river lives in small villages that grew up on the site of Evenk camps and merchant shops. National composition local population incredibly colorful: Russians, Evenks, Yakuts, Nganasans, Belarusians, Ukrainians, Germans, Estonians, Finns... The indigenous inhabitants of these places are Evenks; Russians - the descendants of pioneers and those who developed these lands, Germans, Estonians, Finns - including the descendants of those exiled here in the military and post-war years. But even before that, from the late 1930s, camps for exiles were created here, and until 1956, released prisoners had restrictions on their rights and settled in remote settlements, for example in Turukhansk.
The main occupation of the population living on the banks of the river remains hunting and fishing, as well as farming for personal needs.
The banks of the river are overgrown coniferous trees: spruce, larch, pine, Siberian cedar. There are birch, alder, bird cherry and rowan. A lot of berries: red and black currants, cranberries, lingonberries, blueberries and cloudberries. The rivers are inhabited by burbot, pike, lenok, grayling, sorog, and dace.
general information
Location: Eastern Siberia. Right tributary of the Yenisei River.Water system: Yenisei -> Kara Sea.
Administrative affiliation: Irkutsk region and the Russian Federation.
Source: Upper Tunguska Upland, Central Siberian Plateau.
Mouth: confluence with the Yenisei.
Food: mainly snow, to a lesser extent rain.
Main tributaries: right - Kochenum, Vivi, Tutonchana, Severnaya; left - Ilimpeya, Taimura, Nepa, Bolshaya Erema, Uchami.
Settlements: Tura villages - 5506 people. (2015), Turukhansk - 4662 people. (2010), Tutonchany - 223 people. (2014).
Languages: Russian, Evenki.
Ethnic composition: Russians, Evenks, Yakuts, Nganasans.
Religions: Christianity (Orthodoxy), shamanism.
Currency unit: Russian ruble.
Numbers
Length: 2989 km.Basin: 473,000 km2.
Average water consumption: 3680 m 3 /s.
Average depth: 4-6 m.
Climate and weather
Continental subarctic.Flood: May-July (73% of annual flow).
Floods: rain, summer and autumn.
Average air temperature in January: -34°C.
Average air temperature in July: +16°C.
Average annual precipitation: 380 mm.
Relative humidity: 70%.
Economy
Minerals: coal (hard coal - coking, anthracite, brown; all - Tunguska coal basin), graphite.Agriculture: crop production (potatoes, vegetables, some grain crops).
Hunting and fishing.
Service sector: tourism, trade, transport (including shipping).
Attractions
Natural
Meteor crater Logancha, rapids Uchaminsky, Vivinsky, Bolshoi (Oron) and Kosoy, scree-kurums, backwaters-kuryi, whirlpools-korchagi, pebble stripes-towpaths, cliffs-bulls, rock Bad Cape, Mount Northern Stone, rifts of Spartak, Gerasimovsky and Kamenny, the islands of Iryakta, Gagariy, Korablik and Zhuravlinye.
Curious facts
■ Features of the bed of the Lower Tunguska River gave rise to many local names. On the slopes of the river valley there are kurums - screes of large stones with a diameter of up to 0.5-1.5 m. When such screes protrude far into the riverbed, they are called corgi. The backwater behind these spits is called Kurya. River whirlpools here are called korchagas. Strips made of round stones with a diameter of 10-40 cm along the shore are called towpaths. The towpaths are so tightly packed and polished by water that they form a kind of pavement. They were named so because in the old days, strapmen (barge haulers) pulled ilimka barges with cargo on a towline upstream. Rocky cliffs approaching the river from one bank are called bulls.■ The word “Tungus” came from the Kets - small people, western neighbors of the Evenks. In the Ket language, “Tungasket” means “people of three kinds” - deer, horse and dog. This refers to the difference in the animal that the Evenks used for transport.
■ In the basin of the Vivi River (Krasnoyarsk Territory) - the right tributary of the Lower Tunguska - there is one of the largest meteorite craters in Russia, called Logancha. This impact crater is the result of a meteorite impact 40 million years ago. Its diameter is about 22 km. The crater has been noticeably deformed by more recent geological processes.
■ At the beginning of the 20th century. A project has emerged to connect the Lena and Nizhnyaya Tunguska rivers with a canal in the area of the city of Kirensk: here the rivers are only 15 km apart from each other. The project was rejected due to the large difference in heights (the Lena flows at an altitude of 245 m, and the Lower Tunguska - 330 m), and also because in this section the Lower Tunguska is completely unnavigable.
■ Before the revolution, the head of the Soviet state, Joseph Stalin (1878/1879-1953), subsequently served exile in the Lower Tunguska region. In March 1913, Stalin was arrested for underground activities, imprisoned and exiled to the Turukhansky region of the Yenisei province for a period of four years, where he remained until the end of autumn 1916.
■ Sometimes the Lower Tunguska is called the Gloomy River: this is what the writer Vyacheslav Shishkov (1873-1945) called it in his famous novel of the same name.
Document No. 150 (photocopy of the general notebook)
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Diary interviews with eyewitnesses of the fall along the N. Tunguska River in July 1965. group: Pape V. E., Vronsky B. I., Boyarkina A. P., Sapozhnikova L., Shifrin V., Tsvetkov V., Chernikov V. |
Group Diary
Surveys of eyewitnesses on the river. Lower Tunguska,
July 1965
Expedition composition:
Pape V. E. - director
Vronsky B.I.
Boyarkina A.P.
Sapozhnikova L.
Shifrin V.
Tsvetkov V.
Chernikov V.
The diary was written in turn by all members of the expedition.
Per astera ad astra!
...We arrived in Chechuysk around 5 pm. The cars of the regional consumer union are moving in the morning. They called the chief of Irkutsk in Podvoloshino. filming crew, asked to help with the vehicle of the SOAN expedition. He promised to send it. In the meantime, we are doing the first survey tests.
Two old men, very talkative, but the problem is almost nothing. But there is a lot of information about how gypsies were killed by lightning, about collectivization, etc. ...
...By lunchtime we are in Podvoloshino. A village of two hundred yards. Lower Tunguska is shallow and narrow - about twenty meters. They wade. The village is on the right side, the forest is on the left. We are to the left. The search for shitik is successful. The forester's father finished making shitik for himself. All that remains is to caulk and tar - this is a matter of several hours. agreed to purchase. By the time the team arrives, we will have time to finish everything. The first polls are successful. Every old man is an extraordinary person, old people are well-read, they write their own life stories, they remember everything and tell it with pleasure. Old women, as a rule, refer to old men. We ourselves, they say, are illiterate, dark, and don’t remember anything.
No one has conducted surveys here before - this is all the more interesting. The phenomenon is described very similarly to well-known survey works...
... Exercise with the peas left over from the morning allowed me to reach Gazhenka by six o'clock.
Two people were interviewed. We apologized to them for a long time for disturbing them and scraped aside...
... We arrived at about 12 o'clock to the village of Nepa. The first people who greeted us joyfully rushed towards us... joyfully wagging their tails. “Pshitik,” guarded by Volodya, remained at the pier. The rest of the group, led by the captain (Apollo in a cotton tunic, short storm trousers and ski boots on bare feet) went for surveys. Scaring the residents, they walked around in a horde for some time, then, stocking up with fighting guides, they carried out a voyage in two groups, with varying degrees of success, extracting information...
...So many dead villages along the Tunguska! On high slopes, in picturesque hollows near the limestone mountains, there are empty huts. No children, no dogs, no boats on the shore. Dark, empty window sockets in rickety huts.
Abandoned human habitation always makes a grave impression on me. I can’t watch when old houses are being destroyed in Moscow: scraps of helplessly hanging wallpaper and bricks on a heavy cast-iron ball tap, like blood. And here are entire abandoned villages: Danilovo, Martynovo, Potemino...
... We reached Verkhne-Kalinina at a good pace and conducted a survey. Old people are very different: some tell willingly and a lot, others are frightened, others say that it is impossible to remember anything at all since then, and if anyone tells anything, then it’s all lies. Some of the eyewitnesses last year died, and this once again confirms the timeliness of our route. Soon there will be no people left in these places who remember the Tunguska meteorite...”
...After a three-hour swim, Preobrazhenka appeared on the left bank - a large village stretched along the river bank, with one single street. ...
We all went to the building supreme power village - village council. There was an emergency meeting going on. Chairman of the village council comrade. Chuvashev, an elderly, thin, black-haired man as carefully shaven as the Captain, interrupted the meeting and politely inquired how he could be of assistance. The captain cheerfully and clearly, almost military-style, illuminated the situation. Joyful surprise was reflected on the faces of those around. The topic of the meeting was completely forgotten. They started talking about the Tunguska meteorite, about the letter sent by Chuvashev in response to Boyarkina’s letter, etc., etc. Chuvashev promised all possible support in all our endeavors. The captain said that he was interested in old men and women of advanced age, mainly living ones. At the same time, he presented his “credentials” - a document from the Siberian branch of KMET with signatures and a seal. At the sight of the piece of paper, a closed, wary expression appeared on the open face of the chairman of the village council. He looked at us all doubtfully. “Why are they presenting documents?” it was written on his face, “Aren’t they swindlers? An honest person will not present documents... And, again, they are interested in living and dead old women.” Chichikov remembered, and the chairman slowly began to read the piece of paper, looking at every letter, especially in the signatures and seal. Unable to overcome his doubts, he handed the document to the secretary of the party organization. This was still a relatively young, well-fed, unfired sparrow, who took the burden of responsibility off the shoulders of the chairman, readily providing the Captain with a list of elders of both sexes in the diocese subordinate to the village council. The issue of daily bread was resolved just as quickly. The travelers ate the entire supply of bread captured in Podvoloshino, hoping for the Preobrazhenskaya bakery. The latter, due to the move to another premises, was inactive. An extraordinary baking of bread was organized for noble travelers, which was to be received on the morning of the 21st. Then the team, breaking into pairs, went to conduct surveys and interrogations of eyewitnesses of the Tunguska Diva. As always, old men and women shamelessly confused the circumstances of the phenomenon that occurred 57 years ago. However, being peasants, everyone unanimously claimed that a sheaf of fire was flying. Only one, a carpenter by profession, observed the flight of the “log.” A wise phrase was uttered by one of the respondents: “Don’t really believe the testimony of eyewitnesses who, having forgotten the facts, are simply fantasizing.” He's probably not entirely right. The old people treated the interviewers with great affection; it was so pleasant for them to return to the days of their distant youth, and they willingly answered our questions. ..
... We quickly reached the village. Moga, where several eyewitnesses of the Tunguska marvel lived out their lives, who willingly shared with us their memories, distorted in the distorting mirror of time. Only one old woman, who looked suspiciously at the crew members sent to question her, said that she had instructions not to disclose this secret information to outsiders. This instruction was given to her by the uncle of the famous Tunguska meteorite researcher Viktor Konenkin, a mathematics teacher in Vanavara...
... After lunch we came to Yerema - a small village on the low right bank... In the village, as everywhere else, the people are very friendly and responsive. The form of “interrogation” of eyewitnesses was a little confusing. In my opinion, Valentin Tsvetkov is trying too quickly to take the bull, that is, the old eyewitness, by the horns (remember - don’t remember, saw - didn’t see, heard - didn’t hear).
Despite my shirking, I had to interrogate three old women. For some reason, they are all extremely frivolous and don’t remember anything...
Bugorkan
Kaplin Dmitry Ivanovich , ('82)
Lived in Narkaya - inhabited. the point on the Chon is on the Mukai, flowing into the Vilyui. It was daytime. sat. A lot of noise. We think it’s not thunder, but something else. I didn't see it myself. It was a clear hot day. It's like thunder, but heard differently. It goes on and on for a long time, further and further. Flight direction (by sound) 215 0 . Thunder spawn point 150 0 . Angular height 60 0 .
Temporarily lives in Bugorkan, interviewed 18 km higher while mowing. Lives permanently in Nakanna.
Kaplin Spiridon Nikol . (!882g.)
Luka, below Nakanna 30-40 km.
There were ten thunders there. In the morning I fell asleep. My father said that the lightning went down to where the sun was setting. Nothing flew, it just thundered through the air, at the end of June, at about 5 o’clock. It’s different from thunder, it goes and thunders.
Kaplina Anastasia Konst . (1884).
Toykhaya - Yakutskaya - on Chon. I heard that everything was thundering during the day. An old woman was rowing hay while mowing and heard thunder. I didn't see the body. Everything was loud.
Gromov Mikh. Ivanovich , 1899
He lived in Lavrushka in 1908. He doesn’t remember anything.
Uichegir Avdotya Illarion . (80 years old).
Toihae.
Doesn't remember anything .
It thundered during the day. I haven’t heard it myself, based on stories. Like fire it flew down the Chone. She was at home, probably sleeping. It was a long time ago, before morning.
...By lunchtime we are in Bugorkan. After light tea in the home improvement department - interviews with his grandfather - a handsome Yakut in flasks, gray-haired, with a high-cheekbone face. The head is tied with a scarf. About 85 years old, stocky - he needs to get over his hangover. Then 4 more old Yakut women - with pipes, wrinkled, do not understand anything in Russian - used the services of a Yakut livestock specialist. The old women, as always, are almost unknown - they don’t remember anything or are afraid to remember. Well, here are all the eyewitnesses...
SalatkinSergey Borisovich . 1920
From the mouth of the Nepa 350 km Uyang.
According to the parents' stories, it looked like a bell in shape and glittered. And then the old woman was carrying water, she saw it, abandoned the water and the washing. “The sun is falling,” and he runs out and says, “Where, why are you, you fool, the sun is still there.” The mother heard noise, then explosions.
The village of Bur - 15 km below Uyan - 1.5 km above the village of Bur, a hole with a diameter of 10 m was punched in the river, there is smoke. The miller saw it. The source of the Tira - the tributary of the Lena - the nomadic Evenks heard thunder. There was a storehouse about 8 km away. Thought that<>. In the morning we ran - everything was fine. From the Podkamennaya Tunguska, the Evenks say that the forests were shaking. They shouted that there would be the end of the world - they stopped smoking so as not to punish them.