Big bitch. Big Bitch Ridge. Pass: Shoulder Big Bitch.2011
Pass: Shoulder Big Bitch.2011
We have a very friendly and athletic family!!! We love nature very much native land and whenever possible we try to get out of the house and into the mountains every weekend))))!!! Quite an easy pass for children and interesting name. And what came of it - look further!!!
There are three versions of the origin of the oronym SukA. The interpretation is derived from the Tatar “suka” - “plow”, the Bashkir “suki” - “hill” and the Bashkir “suuk” - “cold”. The third version looks most likely. An interesting observation is made by the famous toponymist of the Urals, A.K. Matveev: “...Russian residents from the village of Tyulyuk call the Suka ridge, citing the fact that there are very inconvenient places for walking...” It must be said that this is indeed the case. Most of the ridge consists of narrow rocky ridges that you have to climb every now and then.
View of Bolshaya SukU from the village of Katavka. Where did our journey to the pass begin?
From the point of view of the excursion, the road leading from the village of Katavka to the village of Sibirka, through the Plecho pass, is interesting. Big Bitch. Few places else in the Southern Urals can find such a simple road to a height of a thousand meters. This is for us since 6 summer child and it is necessary!!!
Let's start with the fact that the climb to the pass itself is picturesque.
Ridge Big Bitch(NoneStop attempt)
The Bolshaya SukA ridge (emphasis on the last vowel) is admired by thousands of people every day, crossing Ural Mountains according to federal highway M5. Its stone kurum wall, stretching for more than 20 kilometers along the highway, can hardly be ignored.
The location of the ridge next to the highway, the possibility of quick descent and easy entry predetermined my choice of the final object for the cross-hike within the framework of the Southern Urals NoneStop project.
On November 1 at 7.00 am, leaving the car in the forest at the foot of the Maly Uval mountain, I begin the traverse. As I make my way through the snout, I think about the differences between this hike and the previous ones. In the summer I wear light 200 gram Solomon sneakers, the weight of my lightweight Bask Lite backpack did not exceed 8-9 kg with a 4 liter water supply. Now I’m going into the unknown, and therefore I’m carrying on my back and legs additional equipment, capable of providing me with a margin of safety in the conditions of the late South Ural autumn. I understand that there is most likely snow at the top, but how much there is, what the temperature will be at night and the strength of the wind remains a mystery. The higher I rise, the more snow there is and at the border of 900 meters snow cover becomes solid. The first obstacle on my way, the city of Maly Uval (1006.7), was difficult. In the semi-darkness I wander among the towers of the stone ridge crowning the peak for a couple of kilometers: visibility 100 meters, strong wind. Sometimes windows appear in breaks in the clouds, which gives hope.
At the top, the snow depth reaches 20-30 centimeters in some places, which already affects the speed of movement, coupled with windbreaks and solving rock labyrinths. I lose precious two hours for the first 2.5 km and an altitude gain of 500 meters, which is critically long in conditions of short 9.5 hour daylight hours.
Behind the Maly Uval mountain there is a small section of windfall forest and an ascent to the highest and completely kurum part of the ridge.
7 kilometers of ascents and descents through snow-covered kurums. And if the ascent is relatively simple and safe, then the descent is like walking through a minefield and the smaller the stones, the more dangerous it is to walk on them.
The ascent and traverse of Peak 1194.8 is easy. Under the cover of the rocks and with a view of the wonderful infernal performance, I arrange lunch.
I make myself freeze-dried macaroni and cheese, adding 100 grams. raw smoked sausages. Sublimates never cease to please me, 20 minutes and I, after eating hot food and drinking warm water, I can move on. I pass the large summit plateau quickly, but the 300-meter descent into the saddle brings a lot of trouble.
I cross the Katavka-Sibirka road and go towards the forested peak 1080.1. On the way to the top, making my way through another blockage, I understand that there is no way I can cross the ridge before dark, there are 2 hours of daylight left, and there is still 7 km ahead of a large section with rocks and turmeric. You have to make a decision to walk in the dark or get up for the night.
What to do? On the one hand, the goal is to complete the ridge within one day, on the other hand, I understand that I am very tired and moving in the dark along snow-covered rocks can end very badly. The second option is also driven by the desire to spend the pre-sunset time taking photographs. Caution wins. Having walked 20 kilometers, I set up my bivouac on the top of a cliff under the cover of a small stone wall. Down under the rock there were places that were more comfortable and more protected from the wind, but I sacrifice a certain amount of comfort for the “Feng Shuiness of the place”; I had the sunset in full view against the backdrop of the section of the ridge I had passed, and the opportunity to photograph the sunrise without getting out of the tent, which in winter conditions is very comfortable.
A few pictures…
... and in anticipation of food and warmth I climb into the tent. It’s so good that I wore winter ski covers with galoshes and a special top. Although my boots are wet, they are completely free of snow; I put them under my head. I unpack the food, put the burner outside and open the valve, gas begins to come out with a strong hiss, I strike the lighter and the flame engulfs the entire burner, the situation is dangerous, the open fire is 30 cm wide in the tent, I am reclining in a sleeping bag and limited in movement. I try to turn the burner over into the snow, but there isn’t much of it on the rock shelf, the burner tips over and the fire flares up stronger, a blow with my hand and the burner flies down the cliff. Cursing, I get out of the sleeping bag in one isothermal, throw on a down jacket, put on almost dry boots and climb down. The rocks are not high, about 10 meters, but we need to find another place to descend, and then a burner among the stones. There is a place for descent, there are no problems with the burner either, the strong smell of gas and the characteristic hissing lead directly to it. After 15 minutes I’m lying in the tent again, my boots are standing outside. I'll deal with these two icy pieces of snow in the morning. The night passes normally, I sleep poorly, a strong wind rinses the tent, a strong cough rinses me. Dawn is scheduled for 9.10, so at 7 o’clock I start moving towards the exit. I open the entrance, I’m in a thick cloud, the dawn will apparently pass by. I prepare breakfast, clean and warm my boots between my legs and in my sleeping bag. At 9.00 I start moving. Rested and with fresh strength, I pass the peak 1139.6 quickly and easily, I simply fly through the forest area, avoiding the rubble
and by 13.00 I reach the last peak of the ridge 1102.8. The weather has completely deteriorated - snowing. I decide to get out onto the M5, since the road is 3 km away from me, I can clearly hear the hum of cars. After 4 hours, using the help of 3 cars and walking 10 km along the road, I get to the starting point.
In total, the total length of the path along the ridge was 27 kilometers.
As for the new equipment, I tested my Palm neoprene kayaking mittens. I was extremely pleased with the test results. A great way to keep your hands warm in humid and windy conditions if needed frequently. delicate work, for example, photography. Thanks to the cutouts on the palms, you can use your fingers in a matter of seconds and hide them just as quickly, while neoprene, in turn, perfectly retains heat when wet, preventing your hand from freezing.
/ Weekend trip: Katavka-Big Bitch-RapidsPhotos for the article: 
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Approximately halfway between Yuryuzan and Satka, skirting the Bolshaya Suka ridge, the trans-Ural highway M5 creeps for many kilometers towards the pass. And at its highest point, the stone rivers of kurum, which flow from the ridge through the thinning forest, almost reach the asphalt of the road. Driving past this place many times, I “licked my lips” looking at the nearby peaks. I thought that I should stop someday and run upstairs, since they are so close. I thought and drove on, because there was always something else in my plans. And this would probably have continued forever if I had not one day specifically come to Suka for the purpose of climbing.
Katavka - Big Bitch
The starting point of my journey was the ancient village of Katavka, founded near the ancient Kazan trail, seemingly back in the days of the almighty Myasnikov and Tverdyshev and lying near the ridge.
An old forest road leads from the village to the pass. At one time it was used for communication with Sibirka, which lies beyond two passes, and also for the removal of timber. And it is quite possible that it was part of that very legendary ancient Kazana (Kazan Trail), along which communication was carried out through Bolshoy Kamen to time immemorial. The pass here is too convenient: low, smooth. And opposite it, on Nurgush, there is an equally good one, leading further to the east.
It's very close to the pass. “Reached” quickly - in about an hour. The ascent ended, and the road led to an old clearing - a woodland with clearings, low birches and fir trees. A little ahead on the right, a remnant peeked out from behind the low trees, marking the pass point. The murky peaks, guardians of the pass, parted a little and opened a passage through the ridge. Here lies the border of the forest and lifeless stone. Junipers and dwarf fir trees climb upward along the rocky slopes. They are interspersed with green spots among the redness of the mountain tundra. Crooked, squat, smoothed by the constantly blowing winds. And gray stone rivers—kurums—rush from the peaks to meet them and get lost in the sea of taiga.
The road, having caught its breath a little, pulled the trail further, towards the emerging slope to the east, descending into the Yamki tract - a basin between Suka and Uvan. Here the distant Zyuratkul ridge with a characteristic white mark on one of the hills was clearly visible.
He stood for a while, peering into the distance, then stepped to the side and, making his way through the thickets of undergrowth, past a pass outcropping, came out to the edge of the ridge drop. From here the entire eastern panorama of the mountains opened up - the vastness of nearby Uvan and Nurgush. However, I wasn't going there today. My goal was the dominant kurum height to the right of the pass, where I planned to find a convenient place to spend the night.
I left the road with regret. Now we had to make our way up through windbreaks and kurums, past rocky outcrops, every now and then slipping off moss-overgrown stones. If there were any paths here, they all had claw marks. And as is customary according to the strange law of animal stitches, they disappeared as unexpectedly as they appeared. But they helped me walk for a while.
Meanwhile, the views were stunning. In the golden evening light, with every meter of height gained, the mountains grew closer. Uvan’s hump is already very close. The sources of Malaya Satka were hidden below it. From the height it was clearly visible how my road, drawn by an arrow along the clearing, went to Moskal and the Olympic Cordon, invisible from here - the center of all the local paths. It must be said that Big Bitch, being the northern continuation of the powerful Zigalga ridge, is located in the very center Southern Urals. Its name comes from the Bashkir “suuk”, that is, “cold”, and not what many thought. Although, as authoritative Ural toponymist Alexander Matveev writes, local population puts the emphasis on the first syllable, citing the fact that it is very difficult to move along the ridge. Here I completely agreed with them.
Climbing from outcropping to outcropping, I crawl out onto the next stone platform. Here it is, in full view, Big Nurgush - the highest point Chelyabinsk region. Adjacent to the stone peak on the left is a huge plateau with an area of tens of square kilometers. This place is not as often visited by tourists as Big Iremel, and on the tundra plateau many rare plants, including the golden root. Through the saddle between the Nurgush stepson Lukash and the Big Nurgush himself runs the old Thieves' Trail, along which horse thieves took horses from the Satka factory to the Bashkir Trans-Urals. It was believed that if you walked along this path, you yourself would one day become a thief. This is just one of the many legends and tales that the Satka district is very rich in. However, like the entire mining Urals.
On one of the climbs, I left my backpack and lightly rushed up to catch the sunset light in order to catch something else after the setting sun. And here it is, the sun, imperceptibly, imperceptibly, but seemingly quite noticeably, and quickly rolled up to the edge of a distant ridge. And I sat down on the edge of the rock, suddenly realizing that my legs were not going to the top, although there was very little left to it. But I can't bring myself to do it. I need to go back for my backpack and then crawl back up. But that's not the point at all. I sat in silence on the cliff. Somewhere far below the highway rumbled. And I seemed to feel good and calm. But the sunset light began to play its usual trick on me. Anyone who has been alone in the evening, far from human habitation, will understand me. In the evening twilight, during sunset, a wave of anxiety and loneliness rolls in, which you just need to wait out. Survive this hour and a half, because when the sun sets and night falls, the wave will subside. But at this very time you are ready to give up everything and run without looking back to people. Because because the feeling that covers you is ancient, at this time the instincts turn on, saying very clearly: “Now night will come, and if you are left alone, you are unlikely to live until the morning.” And nothing can knock it out or erase it.
I returned to my backpack. I sat and thought for a while, but Once again Realizing that his legs weren’t going up and there was nothing he could do about it, and having come up with several well-reasoned reasons, in the approaching darkness he began to move down.
Moving down is always some kind of sadness. The sadness of parting with the mountain. Already leaving the pass, I turned around and saw how the first very bright Star. So big, warm, furry. A silent peak, a silent star and its bright magical light flying through God knows what space and time! “Heavenly nail” flashed through my head. That's what the Arabs called Sirius. And a feeling of pity also appeared at the same time. I regret that I couldn’t find the strength to stay and left, leaving behind a fairy tale and the view of silent ridges.
On the way back, I didn’t turn on the flashlight for a long time and, as a result, I went the wrong way: into abandoned meadows, swamps, and came out to the outskirts of Katavka from a completely different direction, when night had already fallen.
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I climbed the Big Bitch ridge once. And our path to the ridge, as I understand it now, was very unconventional.
Firstly, guide Ivan Susanin led us. That’s what it said on his T-shirt, and he said in all seriousness that his name was Vanya, his last name was Susanin, and being a guide in the Ural taiga was his calling. I hope you understand what feelings took hold of me when I, in company with our German financial director, my beloved nephew and a 17-year-old German boy who came to practice in Russia and for whose safety his father personally entrusted me with responsibility, approached to the shore of the stormy Zyuratkul for some reason and saw a rusty trough, which Ivan Susanin called a motor boat. However, there was a motor.
Secondly, we had to melt to the other side of Zyuratkul in a rusty trough (well, yes, it was a boat with a motor, according to Ivan Susanin) in two shifts of 4 people across a very turbulent lake that day. In general, at that moment the waves seemed like the sea.
By the way, the hike turned out to be surprisingly simple. First we walked along a beautiful forest path, along which frogs raced with us. Then the path went uphill, but we walked along it at a brisk pace, without particularly bothering ourselves. And only the last 100 meters we climbed a little over the stones in the dense forest. I kept looking around and looking for traces of Baba Yaga, she definitely must have lived in this windfall.
And then an incredible space opened up.
Big Bitch Valeria Kuznetsova
“The only thing better than mountains are mountains that you have never been to before.
Old, worn out? But it's true!
The mountains take away your soul, heart, liver... You can no longer live without another dose of mountains. Mountains... They are somewhere “...reigning in the distance and incredibly beautiful...”.
But if you really want to, you can find mountains very close to home (Ufa). Real thousands of people, with mountain taiga and gray tongues of kurums cutting into the taiga. With the ruins of rock outcrops, the smell of rhododendron and crazy views of all five corners of the world. You will say that the world has four ends. I will say that there is a fifth one, just in case everything interesting doesn’t fit into four.
Such mountains, of course, are the Bolshaya Suka ridge. Rocky, pointed, bristling with peaks. And although the emphasis in the word “Bitch” is on the last syllable, sometimes, when you move along the ridge traverse, no, no, and something else will burst out either from your chest or from under your feet. Russian word. And the echo, out of habit, will boomingly answer: mother, mother, mother...
Good on Bitch and close. Just 200 km from October Avenue in the city of Ufa. This circumstance allows you to drive to the “real mountains” in just a day and return back. Which is what we do regularly.
We go to Suka only twice a year, in spring and autumn. Usually in the fall, at the end of September, you always run into snow. Therefore, this year we decided to go there early and everyone is happy - we caught good weather, wonderful views. And the next lucky ones received their much-needed dose of mountains.
For those who will soon experience withdrawal symptoms and an urgent need for the mountains, I will inform you that while the weather is quite normal, the following one-day excursions await us:
September 15, South Ural Nature Reserve, Nary Ridge
September 16, Mount Bakhmur and the stone river closest to Ufa
September 22, South Ural Nature Reserve, Mount Bolshoi Shelom
September 23, Mount Kurtash and Blue Rocks
September 29, South Ural Nature Reserve, Mount Dunan Suigan
September 30, Raspberry Mountain
A little about the Big Bitch ridge
The Bolshaya Suka ridge is located in the Chelyabinsk region, near the city of Bakal, stretches from SW to NE from the right bank of the Yuryuzan River, its length is about 20 km, most peaks are more than 1000 m. The highest points from north to south: 1102 m, 1139.6 m, 1080 m, 1194 m (highest point of Bolshaya Suki), 1130 m, 1105 m, 1168 m, Peski (1054 m), Mal. Uval (1006.7 m).
Valery Kuznetsov:
“There are four versions of the origin of the oronym SukA.
The interpretation is derived from the Tatar “bitch” - “plow”, the Bashkir “bitch” - “hill”, “pointed peak” and the Bashkir “suuk” - “cold”. According to another version, from the word “sukan” - “bow”. That is, SukA is an onion ridge. Indeed, a lot of wild garlic and “bear onions” grow on Suka. And on old maps the ridge is designated exactly as Sukan.
An interesting observation is made by the famous toponymist of the Urals, A.K. Matveev: “... Russian residents from the village of Tyulyuk call the Suka ridge, citing the fact that there are very inconvenient places for walking...” It must be said that this is indeed so. Most of the ridge consists of narrow rocky ridges, which you have to climb every now and then.”
Throughout the Bolshaya Suka ridge there are many rocks, outcrops, and ledges. In the southern part of the ridge there is a large tundra mountain plateau. The plateau is almost flat, offering beautiful panoramic views of the nearby mountains.
How to get there?
To get to the Siberian pass of the Bolshaya Suki ridge, you need to get to the village of Katavka. The village of Katavka was founded in 1843 by settlers from the Katav mine and the Katav-Ivanovsky plant and was first called Novo-Katavskaya. The village arose along with other workers’ settlements near the Bakal mines being developed for their maintenance. Currently, about 250 people live in the village.
From the village of Katavka you need to go east along dirt road, gradually gaining altitude. The road is damp and seems to lie in a narrow, shady spruce-fir corridor. The trail is often crossed by clear and cold streams with spring water. When the taiga ends, you will see open space with kurums, separate bizarre quartzite outcrops and a clearing on one of the peaks of the Bolshaya Suka ridge, which is called Lysaya. This is the Siberian Pass, located at an altitude of about 1000 m above sea level. At the pass you can turn southwest along a barely noticeable path, following the kurums on the right, going around the rocky outcrop - the Devil's Finger. In some places there are markings on the trees. Behind the rocky outcrop, gradually gaining height, you can climb towards the peak of B. Suk (1194m). After climbing to the top, you can return to the road to Sibirka.
The village of Sibirka was founded in 1779. Included in the Satkinskoye urban settlement. The name is associated with the Old Siberian Highway that passed nearby. According to the 2010 census, 128 people lived in the village. The village is located on the left bank of the river. Malaya Satka is 32 km from the regional center, surrounded by the Moskal, Bolshaya Suka, and Uvan mountain ranges. Previously, the main occupation of the residents was logging and charcoal burning for the Satka iron smelting plant. After 1941, the plant’s blast furnaces were switched to a different type of fuel, and coal burning was stopped. In 1967, a power line was laid from the town of Bakal to the village, and an eight-year school was built, which operated until 1980.
Currently there is a Visitor Center in the village national park"Zyuratkul". In the vicinity of the village there are 2 tourist routes: the village. Zyuratkul - Sibirka (20 km), Sibirka - Bolshaya Uvan (12 km, radial ascent). The attractions “Boiling Spring” and “Fountain” are 7 km away.
Valery Kuznetsov:
“It is worth noting that if you are interested in local history and ethnography, communication with the old residents of the village of Katavki will be very informative. Philologists classify the Katavian dialect as a separate dialect.
And the self-name of the Katavs is shmaty. When I happen to be in Katavka, I try with great pleasure to communicate with local grandparents. You won’t hear such an interesting and original speech anywhere else!”
How to get to the southern part of the Bolshaya Suka ridge?
It is convenient to reach the southern end of the ridge along the road from the city of Yuryuzan to the village of Tyuluk, reaching the clearing where the village of Petropavlovka used to be located, and from there along the old logging road and along the path up. But by the way, look for a guide.
Photo by Valery Kuznetsov and Igor Akhromenko from the group “Mountain Shurale”.
This ridge is clearly visible from the M5 highway. High mountains kurumniks rise sharply above the forest. The idea to climb it was born exactly two weeks ago, while driving past on Kruglitsa. Perhaps, without seeing its outline through the car window, we would never have gone there. But everything turned out well and let ours lie in the Urals again.
The photo shows the Bolshaya Suka ridge. The accent is on the letter a, from the word "suuk", which means cold.
Mountains appear in the dawn mist.
The ridge and the small village of Katavka, from which our walking part of the route began.
Large size
From Katavka the path went east, to a pass between two peaks. The left one is less high, the right one is higher - 1194 meters. Let's go to the right. Right along the ridge.
The photo shows the neighboring peak of the ridge
There are no roads here. Trope too. Only dense thickets grass, fern and raspberries. A real edible jungle. And this continues until about 800m
Higher up, the vegetation disappears and an endless mound begins.
Various types of moss dangerously cover the paths between the stones
The climb turns out to be very long. Somehow even endless. Having risen to the top, it turns out that this is not it at all and in the distance a ridge can be seen much higher. Ema, down again and up again on the stones. Again the peak and again a bummer. And this happened five times!!!
In the photo you can see several peaks that we climbed, thinking that they were the most high point on the ridge))
The top appears to be on the top right. But it's not her. The peak is further and higher.
Here I am at the top. The hill that was taken in the previous photo is visible. The rest of the climbers are rising below.
From here you have a beautiful view of green valleys and ridges.
The village of Katavka and Bakal in the distance.
View to the east, into the depths of Zyuratkul.
Large size
View to the west. In the distance is a rutted ridge and countless waste dumps of Bakal.
Large size
Having descended from the mountain back to the pass, we decide to go into the valley. Time is full. On the map they found some kind of gushing well, as it turned out, drilled by geologists in the 60s. Let's go there. The path goes exactly to the east and is constantly crossed by small rivers and streams, which in such heat could not but please.
The whole forest is rustling with streams invisible in the thickets. Unlike Taganay, there is an incredible amount of water here.
Here is the well. There is a nozzle on it and the stream flies up above the trees. In the heat below 40 and such a fountain, it’s just a fairy tale =)
Spend the night here. With such a fountain in the neighborhood, there can be no other options. Based on the facial expression in the photo, you can roughly estimate the temperature of the water escaping from the ground. Cool))
Excellent forest parking and “I was here” style photos =)
The next day was Bakal.
To be continued...