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A flowerbed with tulips will be colorful and healthy if the gardener chooses the right place to organize it, prepares purchased or his own bulbs and soil for planting, selects the optimal time for planting, and provides high-quality care for the planted flowers and the entire flowerbed.

Few amateur gardeners do not have at least a couple of varieties of tulips in their collection. These flowers are easy to care for and come in the most various forms and shades, which makes them such a desirable decoration for a flower bed. Every spring, millions of flower beds bloom throughout the country, where these wonderful plants are planted. And although it is believed that there is no more optimal time for planting them than early autumn, experienced gardeners know a few tricks on how to plant tulips in the spring so that they bloom.

Preparing purchased bulbs

If you have the bulbs at your disposal in the fall, then it is better to plant them in the fall. Optimal time for this purpose September - early October. If the planting material comes into your hands in late autumn or winter, plant it in open ground there is no point, even if the weather permits.

Until spring, it is recommended to store the bulbs in a cool, dry place, such as a refrigerator (but not a freezer). Under influence low temperatures special chemical and physiological processes, which then contribute to better germination and flowering of plants. Even if you purchased the bulbs just in time for planting, they still need to be kept in the cold for at least 12 hours so that they germinate better.

At the end of February - beginning of March after wintering, planting material must be disinfected in a weakly concentrated manganese solution. The bulbs should be kept in it for half an hour before planting the tulips at home in a pot (only in the spring can they be transplanted into open ground). The distance between the bulbs can be minimal. They are covered with a five-centimeter layer of earth on top and left in a warm (heated) room for about a month until the sprouts appear. Only after this can tulips be planted in open ground.

If spring is early and the snow has melted already in March, you can try planting the bulbs directly in open ground. But in this case, be prepared that in the event of more or less serious frosts, the plants may die, and if this does not happen, then the flowers in any case will appear noticeably later than those of the tulips that were planted in the fall.

It should also be noted that if you decide to plant blooming tulips in the spring, it is better to simply move the pot to a flowerbed and leave it there. As a last resort, you can carefully remove them from the pot, being careful not to disturb the lump of earth, since otherwise the plant will not be able to take root and will die.

Preparing your bulbs

If you use bulbs obtained from your own flower garden as seed material, they should also be subjected to pre-planting preparation. Before planting tulips in the spring, they must be subjected to the following procedures:

• Bulbs dug out of the flowerbed should be cleared of the tough outer skin and the exposed bulb should be inspected for defects and diseases. In addition, the “naked” bulb is able to more efficiently receive nutrients from the ground.
• Next, the planting material is degreased and disinfected. To do this, you can use the already mentioned solution of potassium permanganate or a special preparation. An alternative to chemistry is a celandine solution, in which the bulbs should be kept for about half an hour. This will help destroy fungi and bacteria that can harm the bulbs.
• When planting bulbs in pots, it is recommended to use only clean substrate, since soil taken simply from a flower bed may contain putrefactive bacteria. By the way, upper layer It is also recommended to completely replace the soil in the flowerbed itself for the same reasons.

Soil preparation

So, we have already answered the question of whether it is possible to plant tulips in the spring. It's possible if you know some tricks. But in general, the process of spring planting is not much different from the autumn one. The most important thing in spring planting tulips, as well as roses, lilies, or any other flowers, is proper preparation land plot.

The soil in the flowerbed needs to be dug up to the depth of a spade bayonet, that is, about 25 cm. To increase the water permeability of the soil (do not forget that tulip bulbs do not tolerate high humidity), it is recommended to add coarse sand. Also, don’t forget about fertilizers, in particular humus (but don’t use fresh manure).

For preventive purposes, the flower garden can be treated with a light fungicidal solution, which will kill fungal diseases contained in the soil. If the problem is detected already on adult plants, it is recommended to treat with a solution consisting of twenty grams of working substance per 10 liters of water.

Spring planting tricks

In open ground, adult large bulbs are usually planted one at a time, but last year’s “babies” can be placed in groups of five to ten pieces in one hole. Since the stems of tulips rise high enough above the ground to create a continuous carpet of ornamental plants, you can plant low-growing flowers (for example, forget-me-nots or daisies) or ornamental grasses - hosta, astilbe, or brunners.

Planting depth also depends on the size of the bulbs used. Large ones are placed at a depth of 10-15 cm, small ones - 7-8 cm. The distance between planted plants should also be about 8-10 cm. The space between rows should be larger - 20-25 cm.

When placing the bulbs in the garden bed, they must be carefully placed in the hole, but under no circumstances pressed into the soil, as this can damage the root system, which at best will slow down the growth of shoots.

Since tulips do not tolerate excess moisture well, make sure that the flower bed has a sloping shape. It is unacceptable for the flower garden to have holes and depressions that can accumulate rainwater.

It’s also worth telling one more tricky way how to plant tulips in the spring at the dacha. Dutch professional flower growers practice the so-called “floor method” of planting bulbous flowers, which many domestic gardeners have adopted today. This method allows you to simultaneously plant several types of flowers in one flower bed with different periods flowering. The planting technology is extremely simple and involves planting the bulbs at different depths. For example, first they plant tulip bulbs, cover them with a five-centimeter layer of soil, and then plant, for example, hyacinths on top. Another layer of soil is placed on top of the hyacinths and, say, crocuses are planted in it. As a result, you get a flowerbed where three types of flowers bloom and fade at once, while you simply admire them and do nothing.

Now let's take a closer look at the question of when you can plant tulips in the spring so that they produce strong shoots that can bloom beautifully. This issue is no less important than preparing the flower bed, since the survival of the plants depends on how optimal the planting time was.

As already mentioned, it is best to plant tulips in the fall, from early September to mid-October. However, since we are talking about spring planting, it has its own rules and has its own optimal period for planting in open ground.

If you plant the bulbs too early and they germinate before the period of night frosts ends, the young shoots, and possibly the entire bulb, will die. If you delay planting longer than you should, the plants will germinate normally and nothing will threaten them, but there is a high risk that they will not bloom this year.

It is believed that tulips can be planted in open ground when the soil at the planting depth warms up to 9-10 degrees Celsius. Depending on the region, this may be from mid-March to early May.

Flower garden care

Since spring planting is not the biological norm for tulips, the issue of high-quality and timely feeding of plants becomes even more pressing. Whether tulips planted in spring will bloom largely depends on this. In order for the shoots to produce beautiful flowers and then form strong, viable bulbs, they need to be fed three times:

1. For the first time, fertilizers are applied immediately after germination.
2. The second feeding is carried out shortly before the start of flowering, which will require a lot of effort from the plants.
3. IN last time Tulips are fed immediately after flowering, when the active formation of new bulbs begins.

For feeding, you can use complex fertilizers created specifically for tulips. If this method does not suit you for some reason, you can apply fertilizers separately. In particular, tulips can be fed with nitrogen (ammonium nitrate, ammonium nitrate, etc.), potassium sulfate, phosphorus (superphosphate, calcium phosphate, bone meal).

Choosing a site for a flower garden

In conclusion, it’s worth talking a little about where exactly tulips should be planted. These flowers have certain preferences for growing conditions, so by providing them with such conditions, you can achieve truly amazing results. In particular, when choosing a landing site, keep in mind that:

• Tulips love light and do not like shadow. Make sure that no shadow falls on the flowerbed during the day from trees, buildings or other structures.
• Blooming tulips are afraid strong wind. To prevent the buds from falling off prematurely, protect the flower garden with a barrier of some bushes or create a low fence on the side of the windiest directions.
• Bulbs rot in excessively wet soil. If the soil in your area is oversaturated with moisture, raise the flowerbed above general level soil by 25-30 cm and create drainage in it by pouring a layer of crushed stone, broken brick or at least coarse sand under it.

Particularly popular flowers in the gardens of our latitudes are tulips. Such familiar ones from childhood, they can be found in almost every city flowerbed, despite the fact that Holland is considered the country of tulips. But it’s not without reason that tulips and Holland are associated with each other. When these magnificent flowers appeared there, the country was literally infected with them, and this obsession is alive to this day.

In addition to their beauty, what is also remarkable about tulips is the existence of varieties that can easily be grown in a room, and under New Year it will be decorated not only with a Christmas tree, but also with Persian beauties. Why Persian? Now you'll find out.

Pedigree

A flower of the genus Tulip (Túlipa) is a herbaceous perennial bulbous plant of the Liliaceae family. The best part is that once you plant tulips, you can admire them for a very long time in the spring every year. What we call the “root” of a tulip is shaped like a classic bulb (Búlbus), which stores water and nutrients.
Homeland: many are inclined to attribute Dutch origin to tulips, but in fact, tulips first appeared in Persia, then the Turks became acquainted with them, and only after that did the Europeans, and even then not the Dutch first. That is why the name of the flower “toliban”, translated from Persian “turban”, means the name of the headdress of the peoples of the East. It is also associated with the Turkish tradition of wearing a tulip in a turban.

About 150 species are known in nature. Wild forms are found in arid and mountainous Asia - in steppes, sandstones and rocky deserts, as well as in Belarus, southern Kazakhstan, Armenia, Russia, northern India, Iran and Turkey, North Africa and Japan.

Classification

By color:

1. Normal with stable color:
   • plain;
   • mixed;
   • two-color;
2. Variegated ( interesting fact: their color is caused by a virus):
   • feather-like;
   • flaming;
   • striped.

By class (grades 1-11 - garden tulips, grades 11-15 - botanical, cultural hybrids):

1. Simple early tulips.
2. Terry early tulips.
3. Triumph tulips.
4. Darwinian hybrids.
5. Simple late tulips.
6. Lily tulips.
7. Fringed tulips.
8. Green tulips.
9. Rembrandt tulips.
10. Parrot tulips.
11. Terry late tulips.
12. Kaufman's tulips.
13. Foster's tulips.
14. Greig's tulips.
15. Other species, varieties and hybrids.

Tulip calendar

Bloom. It all depends on the specific class, but in general:

• grades 1-11 - April-May;
• 12-15 grades - March-May.

Feeding: preferably three times - immediately as the shoots appear, before flowering and after it.
Planting: late September - early October, the bulbs take root well before the onset of frost (within 20-30 days).
Rest period: from the moment of planting until the first shoots appear.
Reproduction: daughter bulbs are dug up after complete flowering and yellowing of the foliage in June-July and stored until autumn.

Reproduction and planting

Soil and variety selection.Tulips can be propagated by seeds and bulbs. The most suitable thing for you and me, of course, are bulbs, which can be purchased in stores or at the market. Growing methods are:

• indoor forcing, like indoor flower;
• growing indoors without forcing;
• planting in the garden as a garden plant.

For all methods there are certain varieties. For the first, for example, low-growing T. Hybrida (T. Hybrida) simple early (1) and double early tulips (2) are suitable, there are also T. Kaufmanniana or T. Greigi (T. Greigii). Tall beauties for the garden - Liliaceae (6) and Darwin hybrids (4).
It is imperative to plant tulips in the fall, and not, as usual with flowers, in the spring. They are very much related to temperature, and for planting in the ground they require about +9°C. Because it is during the dormant period that the flower develops in the bulb, but in the spring it grows.
By choosing a suitable variety for wintering in the ground, tulips in the garden can be grown in one place for a long time. In this case, the soil is better with a neutral reaction or acidic, neutralized by limestone. Tulips love well-drained soil: loose, sandy. Approximate composition: turf soil, humus, sand (1:1:1). Sand and peat are mixed into heavy soils. But, in principle, any will do, since the flowers are unpretentious. For landing in room conditions We simplify the process by purchasing standard soil for bulbous plants.
The soil at our dacha is not particularly fertile, and besides, it is far from black soil, which is black in color and has particles stuck together in lumps. Rather, it is a mixture with sand and therefore has the color of milk chocolate and is free-flowing like sand. I must say that tulips are growing here for many, many years and there doesn’t seem to be much time to look after them: in the spring, before we move to the dacha, they already have time to bloom. Nevertheless, the flowers feel great and delight us every year - these are early, first-class tulips. They bloom already in April and overwinter in the ground without requiring shelter.

Bulb. Like all bulbous plants, the success of successful flowers depends directly on the planting material, therefore the bulb must be large and healthy, that is:

• dense, clean, without traces of rot or mold and heavy for its size;
• not wrinkled or damaged;
• the stem should not grow, although there may be a short green tip;
• there are no roots.

In addition, upon disembarkation large quantity For tulips, it makes sense to sort the bulbs by size and quality. Because if there is a diseased onion in the garden, all the plants will get sick.
For the ground. Garden tulip bulbs are placed at a depth of 15-20 cm, botanical ones - at 10, the distance between the bulbs is 10-20 cm. After rain and watering, it is useful to loosen the soil.
Every year, the tulip bulb is replaced by a new one, simultaneously forming smaller daughter bulbs nearby. For greater success, I still recommend that MirSovetov readers dig them up every year, store them in a dry basement or even at the bottom of the refrigerator, and then plant them in a new place, where tulips have not grown before. Otherwise, according to experienced tulip growers, the ability of flowers to reproduce is sharply reduced.
Planting with forcing.When forcing, the bulbs first grow in the dark and in the cold - this is how roots and buds develop, and then they are placed in warmth and light - for the development of leaves and flowers. In this way, the plants are forced to bloom earlier. Be sure to choose the largest bulbs.
Tulips are planted in bowls or containers. Bowls are wide, shallow clay “bowls” shaped like a bowl. They are more aesthetically suitable for an apartment or house than containers. The onions are not stuck in too tightly and under no circumstances are they turned so as not to damage them. Also, they should not touch each other, despite the tightness. Soil is poured on top and between the bulbs, compacted a little, but the tip is left uncovered. Do not fill the soil level with the edge of the pot.
Planting without forcing.Clay shards are placed at the bottom of the bowl as drainage, then soil is poured. The bulbs are planted close to each other, completely covering the tops with soil. It is also important that the bowl has good holes for moisture drainage.

Growing conditions

Care for any method of growing tulips must be constant until all parts of the plant wither and die, otherwise the bulbs will not ripen. It consists of abundant watering, fertilizing, providing light and maintaining a certain temperature, if we're talking about about the premises.
Tulips are fans of warmth and sunlight(but not direct rays), but they do not like wind and drafts. But they should stay away from the heating radiator, and for long-term flowering, the flowers should generally be placed in a cooler place at night - for example, on the balcony.
Tulips are very moisture-loving, but, as has already become clear, water stagnation should not be allowed to avoid rotting of the bulb. Water the flowers, not allowing the soil to dry out (it should always be moist), with warm, settled water. I would like to draw the attention of MirSovetov readers to the fact that water getting on leaves or buds is extremely undesirable.
Yellowed, withered leaves and faded flowers are removed, leaving the peduncle and the lower few leaves, thereby preserving proper development bulbs and its nutrition. In this case, the flower does not waste energy on producing seeds.
Growing during forcing.The planted bulbs are kept in cold and dark conditions for approximately 6 to 14 weeks, making sure that the soil does not dry out and checking that shoots have not appeared. The secret is that the temperature should be about 4-5°C, not higher: to do this, you need to bury the vessel in the garden under a 10 cm layer of peat (sand, ash) or put it in a dark bag in the cellar.
When the shoots are about 2.5-5 cm, move the bowl with the bulbs into a room at 10-12°C, first shade them, and after a few days they can be placed on the window. When the buds appear and it is already clear what color the tulips are, they can be placed on permanent place 15-20°C. Not dry and not hot, without drafts, moist soil, not in direct sun, but very light - it is under these conditions that flowering will last for a long time.
Faded buds need to be cut off and the flowers cared for until the leaves turn yellow. And then dig up and dry the bulbs, store them until the next planting in the ground. They are not suitable for re-forcing.

All specified temperature limits must be strictly adhered to! If you don't do this, there will be no success.

In this way you can achieve flowering on New Year and Christmas: for this, flowers are planted early, in September, and brought into the room when shoots are about 2.5 cm and no later than December 1.
Growing without forcing.After planting, the bulbs in the bowl are taken out into the air. They remain there until the buds appear, and only after that they are moved to a cool room.

Fertilizer

For good growth, flowering and successful reproduction, tulips are fed mineral fertilizers containing potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus. It is better to do this in a complex. The flower actively responds to feeding, and even not very good bulbs will bring good results. But you can’t overdo it here either - I don’t recommend giving MirSovetov readers more than a three-fold infusion.
It is more convenient to use ready-made complex fertilizers and not take risks. Organic matter familiar to the garden can cause great harm to tulips, causing diseases due to increased amount pathogenic microorganisms in its environment.

What the tulip tells you: “lost in translation”

When growing tulips indoors, certain difficulties may arise. Although they are completely unpretentious as a garden plant, flowering in a room can only be achieved by scrupulously following the instructions. Otherwise, why grow them then?
Yellow leaves - improper watering, little light, drafts.
Long withered leaves- kept in the dark, lack of light during flowering.
Slow growth - not kept in the dark enough, not enough moisture.
The buds do not open - improper watering and water getting on the buds.
They do not bloom at the same time - the bulbs were selected unequally. In addition, the window tray needs to be rotated regularly to ensure even and straight plant growth.
The flowers are deformed - during the dormant period the temperature was higher than necessary or the place was not too dark.
Rotting flowers are an obvious sign of waterlogging. Excess water drain both from the bowl and from the pan.
They don’t bloom - it’s too warm, exposed to bright light too quickly, insufficient watering.

Pests and diseases

One of the reasons why you need to carefully sort out the bulbs before planting lies in the possibility of infecting all the flowers from one rotten bulb. To prevent infection with fungal diseases - various types of rot - gardeners recommend watering tulips with a suspension of 0.5% topsin. Treating the bulbs with a fungicide solution after digging also helps. But if the disease does occur, the affected flowers are dug up and completely removed from the area, even before burning.

In indoor conditions it is more reasonable to prevent diseases, and it is more difficult to get pests there, since many of them can live on your premises. summer cottage or in bulbs. The key to success: carefully check the bulbs before planting. If you have doubts, it is better not to take risks and not spoil your mood.
Among the pests that can covet tulips are: mole crickets, earwigs, grape elephants, horse flies, onion rattles, slugs and snails, narcissus flies, stem and bulb nematodes, slender weeds, cutworms, thrips, bulbous aphids, mice.
As a means of control - frequent loosening of the ground, burying the insecticide in the ground or spraying it with visual damage to the above-ground parts. The aphids are easy enough to wipe off.

Well, in a nutshell, about what an amateur florist can take as very interesting phenomenon. Suddenly one day your favorite plain tulips became variegated. This is a sign of infection with the variegation virus - random variegation.

The disease cannot be treated, but is prevented by disinfecting the instrument after cutting each individual flower, if necessary. I observed this myself, but at that time I still didn’t know why there were suddenly more striped tulips in the garden bed. I must say that we have had pink and pink-striped tulips in the same place for about 25 years.

Flower lovers know how to find their “zest” even in the most ordinary-looking plant. Flower growers are interested different types from a professional point of view. And consumers choose according to their taste. But Dutch tulips are able to conquer everyone with their variety of shapes, colors and colors.

The statement that tulips were first bred in Holland is incorrect. Although this misconception can be forgiven, given the fact that today the undisputed leadership in the cultivation and sales of these flowers belongs to this country. And it is Dutch tulips that are the standard of beauty and quality, and in terms of varietal diversity there can be no rivals at all.

Belongs to the class of Darwin hybrids. A tulip with a perfectly regular shape, bright red color, yellow bottom, about 50 cm high. The flowers are large, goblet-shaped, not afraid of frost and viruses. baby bulbs. They can grow in any soil, but prefer loose, well-drained loam or sandy loam soils. The planting site should be level, protected from drafts and well lit.

Temple of Beauty

It’s not for nothing that the flower got its name. Its unusual original color and size can amaze even an experienced gardener. Obtained as a result of interspecific crossing. Considered the most large tulip in the world. The height of the plant stem is about 1 m, and the height of the bud is up to 14 cm. The shape and color are salmon-pink with a carrot tint. Bulbs large sizes, flowering is mid-late. Needs well-drained soil.

Greuz

A flower with a regular shape, but an unusual color. The most delicate but deep violet-blue color immediately attracts attention even among other beautiful flowers. Great for composing compositions and.

Hamilton

The height of the stem is about half a meter, the height of the glass is 6 cm. The pronounced fringed structure of the petals and the unique bright yellow color make the flower one of the favorites in sales. In addition, Hamilton blooms for more than three weeks and has a delicate fragrant aroma. It reproduces well and is resistant to diseases.

Lambada

Another wonderful representative. The glass is large, orange-red, with a yellowish rim turning into a thick fringe. Up to 50 cm in height. It is unpretentious to the soil, but needs good lighting and does not tolerate waterlogging.

Christmas Marvel

Very delicate flower. Refers to simple early tulips. The flowers are large, bright deep pink with a barely noticeable, light pale pink border. The flower got its name thanks to short period cooling the bulbs and allowing the flower to grow before the Christmas holidays.

Triumph

A whole class of Dutch tulips, bred by crossing Darwin hybrids and simple early ones. Varieties of this group make up a quarter of the world's total varietal diversity. The height of plants in this group is from 40 to 70 cm. The glasses are large and retain their shape well. They come in a wide variety of colors - from white to dark purple. They bloom for several weeks.

Landing Features

Of course, every lover of these wonderful plants strives to grow as many different varieties as possible. However, not everyone knows how to plant Dutch tulips correctly. You can plant both seeds and bulbs. But the second method is more popular due to less time, effort and greater effectiveness.

First you need to decide on a place. Flowers can grow in any soil, but light, loose soil with neutral acidity is optimal. A day before planting, the soil should be loosened, and if the soil is too clayey, sand, peat and humus should be added. Planting material must be carefully checked, since one infected bulb can cause infection of the rest.

Only healthy specimens should be selected. The top husk is removed - this will help not only to carefully examine the bulb, but also in the future the nutrients will be easier to absorb. Then the planting material is treated with a solution of potassium permanganate or another disinfectant.

Dutch tulips are planted in open ground in the fall, because it is the slightly cold air that promotes the development of the bulbs. This feature is due to the genetics of tulips. It is important to plant a tulip not early, so that the plants do not grow, and not too late, so that they have time to adapt before the cold weather. Late September or early October is best.

The bulbs are planted quite deeply, several times more height bulbs. A little sand is poured onto the bottom, then the bulb is sprinkled with ash. Fall asleep and level. Water only after 10 days.

Dutch tulips are not capricious and unpretentious, so if you wish, you can have a piece of the Netherlands in your garden.