Paper model instant. Final collection and result

They will be useful to us later, although they were not fundamentally needed for assembly, and in general it is useful to know how what was going to be reproduced was arranged. It was noted that the livery version of the prototype reproduced in the kit actually had a white rather than black propeller, and white, rather than red, upper surfaces of the wing consoles. In addition, the windshield of the cockpit has a binding in the set (in life, it was apparently cast entirely and had fittings or arcuate supports from the inside - but we will not find the binding "on the forehead" in any of the "in-life" photographs of the MiG-3); we'll fix that as we go.

Here we read the assembly instructions from the publisher. Not very detailed, but in principle it is clear:

1. Preparation

So let's start. Prepare tools and materials.

Instruments are common for such an enterprise: a well-deserved scalpel and tweezers, various scissors and an awl, a ruler, a microdrill and a set of drills 1 ... 3 mm (you can only get by with drills and twist them with your fingers), a set of knives for woodcarving, fine sandpaper. Large scissors cut long lines, sharply honed rounded nail scissors - circles, corners and other secluded places. Scalpel used for cutting where scissors are inconvenient, for planing, erasing and trimming. Of course, it must be sharply honed and straightened on a grinding block. Awl pierces holes, including primary recesses for subsequent drilling, and is also used to punch fold lines. Bend punching- a very important operation, so the awl is sharply honed, and then the end is carefully straightened on a thin bar and polished so that when the folds are pressed, the awl does not scratch the paper in any case. The angle of sharpening the end of the awl is standard, 25 ... 30 degrees. To check with a sharpened awl with a reasonable effort, we draw on bad paper (for example, a newspaper), tilting it at an angle of 20 ... 25 degrees. to the surface of the paper, as it should be when punching the folds. If an inferior newspaper is torn or shaggy, the awl is no good and must be sharpened further. If the awl leaves a neat groove even on bad paper, you're good.

Wood carving knives can be replaced with a clerical paper knife or just a razor blade - all this is only needed sometimes for cleaning, trimming, etc. The best basic tool is a properly sharpened medical scalpel. We don’t know if it can be bought at a pharmacy, but it is found in drunks at a flea market. We bought our scalpels there.

Tweezers are also important, and it is rather hard medical ones. It is needed not only to hold parts, but also for bending and for pressing overhead adhesive seams. Naturally, its sponges must be sanded and cleaned so as not to leave marks and scratches.

As the main glue we choose PVA of two grades: "Moment Super PVA D3" for all current work and high-quality regular PVA for large surfaces ( qualitative- means bought not in a stationery store, but in a store selling household chemicals, where such glue is sold in packages of at least 0.5 kg). My usual PVA seems to be from Aqua. In general, high-quality - exactly as much water as needed. I note that although many, including the authors of ModelArt, categorically do not recommend water-based adhesives, I have been using them for a long time and fruitfully. With a known skill, the shortcomings can be circumvented, and the advantages are obvious.

Naturally, in some cases we cannot do without " moment". We stock tubes Moment 1 and Moment Crystal.

To work with PVA, we store a clean plastic or metal lid from a can and ordinary wooden toothpicks. We will pour PVA into the lid in the amount necessary for work, and with toothpicks we will apply glue where necessary. Toothpicks are very convenient for this purpose, and as they become dirty, they are simply thrown away and replaced with new ones. Let's say once every half an hour. Another convenience of toothpicks is that they do not smear the glue like brushes, but level it - this is important when we apply glue to places tinted with felt-tip pens, and indeed to the “face” of the part (the paint gets into the glue, and the brush "delivers", but a toothpick - never). Dried unused glue from the lid will also be periodically picked out and thrown away. The disadvantage of this technology is some wastefulness (about 60% of the glue dries up before it has time to go to work, and toothpicks quickly fly into the trash), but it is more than compensated by saving the most precious thing in life - time.

Toothpicks will be required as part of the model, but more on that later.

Paints: for small touch-ups, primarily for touching up the ends of parts, we need red, yellow, gray, blue acrylic paints. We take glossy art acrylic paints (since we will use glossy photo paper - more on that later) and mix the colors we need. You will also need black paint to paint the propeller and wheels. It should be very matte - shiny wheels and a propeller look unnatural. We prepare matte black paint from ordinary (but high-quality!) PVA (50%), black tinting paste for water-dispersion paints (45%) and zinc white (5%). Zinc white slightly softens the blackness of the tinting paste, and the glue makes the black paint coating smooth and matte. Very nice paint. True, it is only suitable for paper, cardboard and wood.

brushes: for fine touch-up, it is enough to have art brushes No. 1,2.3. It is better to have high-quality brushes - we work with water-soluble paints and glues, and if the brushes are washed in water immediately after use, they will last a long time.

Felt pens and markers: a pale gray-blue felt-tip pen is prepared to touch up some of the edges of the parts and a black permanent marker is prepared to transfer the cockpit glazing to the film and to touch up the black edges.

Desktop. For most jobs, it is enough to have some kind of flat, clean and solid board. We use Plexiglas sheet for this purpose. It is convenient to cut with a scalpel on it (the scalpel does not blunt), to assemble parts (PVA does not stick to it), and it is perfectly flat, which is also important during assembly, and is easy to clean. For complete comfort, we scratch a rectangular mounting grid on a sheet of plexiglass, which serves as an excellent guide for assembly. When cutting with a scalpel or knife, it is useful to put a sheet of thin paper under the sheet being cut (the cut will be smoother); we stock up a dozen sheets of clean office paper for this.

We assign one side of the Plexiglas sheet for cutting, piercing, etc. - this side will gradually become covered with scratches from the scalpel, awl, etc. We will periodically level it with fine sandpaper until it completely becomes unusable. We assign the other side for other work (punching, installation, etc.) - this side will always remain perfectly flat. It is possible, however, to have two separate sheets, but one is enough for us. At the end of the work, we must clean the sheet (you can simply wash it with soap and a sponge).

For piercing and drilling holes, we store a wooden block with a flat, clean surface.

For garbage (which is usually unmeasured), it's a good idea to have an office wastebasket. However, our work is dirty and without show-offs, so we just take a plastic 5-liter jar from under the auto-windshield wiper, wash it and cut off the “head”. The jar is square and comfortable, and it’s not a pity to throw it away after getting dirty.

2. Printing and sticking on cardboard

For a cardboard model, this is the most important procedure - print quality by 50%, if not more, determines the quality of the model. You can say, "what you sow, you will reap."

First of all, read the manufacturer's instructions:

Now we print, in accordance with our capabilities.

For print basic details We take Lomond thick glossy single-sided photo paper (150 g/m2) and print sheets with the main details using pigment ink (I used an ordinary HP DeskJet 3520 inkjet printer and the 28th cartridge filled with the necessary ink; print settings are "best" quality, "glossy paper "). Printouts are simply pleasing to the eye: clear, even, saturated. In addition, glossy photo paper gives the details a certain "three-dimensionality", they look like "real".

Frame parts and other wheels We print on ordinary matte photo paper 80 ... 130 g / m2 and paste it on a decent cardboard 0.5 ... 0.8 mm thick. Cardboard plus paper plus a layer of glue will give us the final thickness of these parts about 1 mm, a little less, which is what is required - no more is needed. The matte finish of the photo paper on this sheet is important because the details on it are not meant to be shiny. You need a decent cardboard, not "shaggy".

We print a part of the sheet with the details of the fuselage frame and paste it on cardboard in 2 copies: we will need this, because we will assemble the fuselage a little differently than described in the instructions (without connecting strips of paper, but with double frames glued into all ends fuselage sections). We will talk about this in detail later.

In order to completely avoid possible deformations of the frame parts when sticking to cardboard with PVA glue, we proceed as follows.

1. Cooking double sheets of cardboard 0.8 mm thick, gluing each of them from two sheets of cardboard 0.4 mm thick (we took ordinary binder folders - not coated!). The fibers on the sheets of cardboard to be glued must be oriented perpendicularly - this is important. Double sheets glued with PVA (fatter!), pressed and well dried ( at least a day), turn out to be rigid in any direction and have already experienced the deforming effect of PVA - now we are not afraid that the frame parts glued to them are deformed ("there is nowhere for such cardboard to shrink").

2. Next, glue the parts of the sheet with the details of the frame onto this cardboard. We apply glue NOT on paper with details, but on cardboard: if applied to paper, it will swell, deform, and it is not known what will happen; and our cardboard is already rigid and does not deform - the glue will not have time to reach the bottom sheet before we connect the cardboard to the paper. So, we smear our double cardboard with glue, carefully and accurately place the paper with the details on the glue layer and immediately press evenly from above, NOT smoothing (again, to avoid deformation). We press from top to bottom, using a suitable small rectangular wooden block or simply by pressing with our fingers. After making sure that the paper is evenly stuck to the cardboard, put it to dry. for a day. At first, our stickers swell slightly (the paper and the top layer of cardboard underneath swell), and after a day they turn out to be slightly concave. We correct this concavity with the traditional method "on the edge of the table", slightly bending the stickers in the opposite direction, then align them completely. Having made a control printout of the same sheet or using parts of the second copy that did not go into action (for example, the part where the wing frame is), we make sure that the dimensions of the parts pasted on the finally aligned cardboard are exactly the same as on the control non-glued sheet or parts of it (by measuring the distance between the extreme details on the sticker and on the control sheet with a ruler) and that the thickness of the "pie" turned out to be approximately 0.8 mm.

To give the model full chic, we go to another waste: a sheet with wheel disks once again we print on matte photo paper (on the same as the one on which the sheet with the details of the frame and wheels was printed, or a little thinner; we issued for what was - matte paper 120 g / m2). From this printout we take only wheel rims. Matte rims have a deep black color and go well with the matte black paint that we will paint the tires of the wheels with (this paint has already been mentioned above). We leave this matte printout with the right wing skin pattern - it will serve as a template for us when gluing the wing frame.

Naturally, we print instruction- on ordinary office paper.

When assembling the wing frame, it is convenient to have at hand wing trim patterns to ensure the accuracy of the frame assembly. To do this, we print the sheet with the details of the left wing again in black and white on ordinary office paper (above we have already received a sheet with the details of the right wing for the same purpose, printing the wheel disks on matte paper).

Transparent details: if you really want to, you can print a sheet with them on film. However, we are too lazy to look for it in stores, so we find a clean sheet polyester(not polyethylene!) film with a thickness of 0.05 ... 0.1 mm of the required dimensions (we found such a sheet on a box of chocolates from Korkunov lying around in the buffet) and transfer the outlines of the transparent parts to this sheet with a thin black marker (one of those that are used to write on a compact -disks). At the same time, we eat sweets, washed down with fresh tea.

Everything is ready for assembly.

3. First details. Cockpit light

So, we started. The first details are simple, but require attention.

Cutting out patterns. We cut strictly along the lines: scissors cut the marking line strictly in half. Step to the right, step to the left... we know, we swam. In addition to thin marking lines, there are also thick ones. These lines are drawn like that for a reason: they should be on the model. We leave such lines within the part, cut along the edge of such a line (ALMOST along the edge - we still cut off five hundredths of a millimeter for order, as well as for marking lines).

Punching and tinting. To push through the fold lines, we put the part "face" on a hard surface (not on paper!) - best of all on glass or plexiglass. We pierce the points for punching with an awl from the "face", if possible outside the field of the part. We apply a ruler and an awl from the inside, tilting it 25 degrees to the horizon, with a reasonable effort we draw.

Now you can bend it - with your fingers or (if the bent fragment is small) with tweezers. The edges of the part that will be visible on the model are tinted with previously prepared paints, if the "face" of the part (or part of it) is colored. We tint by drawing a brush along the edge of the end of the part, which is from the inside. If we draw along the edge, which is from the side of the "face", the paint can get on the photo layer and everything will deteriorate. And we draw along the edge from the inside, without delay and carefully - the paint paints the end, but does not have time to get to the photo layer (to the "face"). Done - the end is pale blue or military green - depending on what detail we tint.

Radiator. For some reason, the pattern does not show petals for gluing to the fuselage. We provide petals, as shown in the illustration.

radio equipment(rear shelf of the cabin). We don’t bother with gluing full parallelepipeds, we ignore the bottom of the parallelepipeds, we glue each of them simply with the lower edges to the shelf. It's easier and more accurate that way.

Cabin lamp.

As we have already noted above, we decide to get rid of the wrong overhead windshield cover (in other words, to make it one whole convex glass, as it was; we most likely will not do supports from the inside or whatever was there). After thinking and turning the polyester film that we intended for the flashlight in our hands, we come to the conclusion that the windshield can still be cut out of this film, and the cuts (in the project covered with overhead binding posts, which in fact were not), if they are made carefully, they will be almost invisible and in any case they will not spoil the impression. (Perhaps, Dr. Zarkov invented the slipcover and came up with it to close the cuts - but why?...)

Here, despite the fact that we act according to the instructions, well, almost according to the instructions, our adventures begin.

Having cut out a pattern of a lantern for verification from paper and honestly glued it (do not forget to leave the petals for gluing the windshield sidewalls to the roof), we find that gaps into a fist gape in the places of the windshield cuts - the front rectangle of the windshield is longer than necessary, by a millimeter. Correcting the pattern:

We print this adjusted pattern (it is designed for the entire width of a standard A4 sheet without borders). Now the test passes successfully.

We print again, cut out a pattern from polyester. We cut it out like this: we pin a paper pattern and a sheet of polyester on top to a flat working wooden board and cut it out along the contour with a scalpel (do not forget to carefully draw lines with an awl between the petals indicated on the modified pattern and the windshield itself - not for bending, but just to see these lines). We paint over the binding and racks on the pattern from the inside with a black marker - firstly, in order to later see where to apply glue for gluing the paper binding, and secondly, so that the binding does not glow white from the inside - in life it was in the color of the cabin. Again, it should be military green, but we only have a black marker, and black is also okay.

We glue it with the "Moment" (only two petals, indicated on the modified pattern; they are glued under the front edge of the "roof"; the places where the glue is applied to the film - four narrow strips one and a half millimeters wide - are pre-scraped with a scalpel for gluing strength).

We are convinced that everything is so: there are no cracks, the cuts are neat, they do not catch the eye and do not cause irritation. We glue the cover (the frame of the "roof" and the lower edge of the windshield), using the same "Moment", but scraping only the critical corners. We paint the binding from the inside (two front pillars) with black - so that they are simply distinguishable. Lantern ready:

In fact, the false frontal binding of the name of Dr. Zarkov is useless. Without it, it’s more correct and looks better - although we drew the supports from the inside or what can be seen in the photographs ... we should have military green, of course ... but black does not look out of place either.

We immediately glue the accompanying triangular glass to part 9. We cut out the outer contour of this glass exactly: it will mark the place of gluing part 7 (shelf with radio) to part 9 from the inside.

4. Propeller and landing gear

Chassis. We do everything according to the instructions and illustrations. Before gluing the wheels, we paint the wheels with a black mat.

In the wheels, we made a mistake that we did not correct. We needed to dial in 6.6mm of wheel thickness, so from our stickers (having 0.8mm of thickness) we selected 8 rims for each wheel, discarding the center rims (61). Subsequently, when turning, however, it turned out that if sharpened to full roundness, the wheel will turn out to be too round and the edges of the discs glued later will “hang in the air”. We stopped in time, as a result of which the grooves between the discs are still visible on the wheels. It was necessary to throw away just the 61d wheels, adding a pair of 61 wheels instead of them = then the wheels could be turned perfectly.

We leave it as it is - and so good.

To ensure the rotation of the wheels (see "TK" above), we use a well-known and simple trick:

The tip of the wheel axle protrudes approximately 1 mm from its plane; the tip is flatly sharpened with a needle file or bar to obtain burrs at the edges;

A washer cut out of paper with a diameter of 3.5 ... 4 mm with a hole of 1 mm in the middle is put on top of the wheel on the tip of the axle;

Then we put black acrylic paint on the washer and the tip of the axle protruding from it, trying a) to fill the entire washer and b) not to get on the wheel itself. Pour several times, each time drying, until a sort of rounded head is obtained at the end of the axis.

Such a head holds the wheel well enough and allows it to rotate freely, and besides, it does not spoil the look of the model (just the wheel hub is not 1, but 4 mm in diameter - not so scary).

Propeller.

Cook we glue the propeller according to our technology. Firstly, we do not use connecting strips - we glue the frames directly to the parts. Secondly, we plant the propeller not on an awkward and uncomfortable paper cylinder (how do people manage to ensure the normal rotation of the propeller with such a landing?), but on a thin axis (in our case, the same ubiquitous polished toothpick), which will then be inserted into the fuselage.

With such an axis, it will be easy and strong for us to install the blades - the ends of their axes will be glued to the axis of the propeller.

So, we do:

Parts 72b, 72c are cut about 0.5 mm wider (for subsequent turning) and drilled holes of 2 mm (thickness of the polished toothpick);

We glue cone 72 by drilling holes for the blades (2.5 mm);

We sharpen parts 72b, 72c "on a cone" so that 72b fits exactly into the lower end 72, and 72c enters the upper end 72 0.5 mm below its edge (this is so that when installing the screw, the edge of the spinner fits snugly against the edge of the fuselage, no matter what happens). Glue;

We glue the tip of the cook, mold it to an exact cone and simply glue it to the end 72, smearing the edges of the tip with glue;

We cut off the front sharp end of the toothpick axis, try it on, then finally set it, picking up a fair drop of PVA with this blunt end. The drop glues the blunt end of the axle to the tip of the cook, simultaneously lubricating the edges of the hole. We remove excess glue.

Cook on the axle is ready. It is durable, spins perfectly (while in the fingers) and there is almost no beating (within 0.1 mm).

Drip a drop of red acrylic paint onto the tip of the cook.

blades. Here we have to tinker - all with the same goal to build a high-quality model.

First, we glue the blades, "like everyone else": we glue the halves of each along the edge, glue the axles (lengthening them so that they rest against the propeller axis) and set them. It seems to work out well:

The blades turn out to be wide along the entire length (up to the cook), while the real blade at the entrance to the spinner is round;

When you try to give the blades a changing angle of attack (which is necessary for reliability), you have to "flatten" them (it is impossible to twist the glued three-dimensional part without bad deformations).

The result is "shovels" that do not correspond to the drawings:

We tear out the first blades from the coca (at the same time we manage not to damage it) and think about it. Having turned Zark's patterns this way and that and having mobilized the existing intelligence, we are testing several ways to make the blade so that it is round at the beginning, remains voluminous and has a changing angle of attack, as in the drawing. As a result, we select and implement the following method of gluing decent (that is, corresponding to the drawing) blades from Zarkov's patterns.

1. We print the details of the blades on lighter paper (120 g/m2). We glue the front parts of the blades end-to-end with narrow strips of paper from the beginning to about 8 mm to the end; we immediately cover the parts with a black mat to avoid warping when painting after assembly, especially carefully painting the joints (we have a black mat on PVA, this makes the joints almost invisible and strong in bending). We prepare the axes of the blades from toothpicks, bringing their thickness to 2.5 mm with paper.

2. Shape each blade so that the leading edge is rounded - 2.5 mm at the beginning, fading away at the end. We also make the front plane of the blade convex over the entire width; the posterior plane remains rounded only along the anterior margin. We glue the axes of the blades - first we attach the axis to the front lower edge of the blade, then we glue the lower edges of the planes (about 3-4 mm) around the axis - first we glue the back plane, then the front. We try to get a cylindrical pasting, as far as possible.

3. Next, we glue each blade with handles along the rear edge, ensuring the variability of the angle of attack - this, by the way, is somehow obtained automatically without much effort on our part (theoretically, due to the fact that the front plane of the blade is molded more convex than the back - see above ). We are struggling with the fact that the rear edges are not glued flat to one another along the entire length: after all, we pasted over the lower edges of the planes around the axis. What cannot be glued flat (by about 10 ... 12 mm), we glue with an overlap, giving a flat shape to the rear edge in this place with tweezers:

The end of the blade (approx. 8 mm) is glued flat. The blades are ready. We slightly trim the rear edges where uneven or angular, finish painting with a black mat, cut the axles and put on the cook. To do this, we pick up a generous drop of PVA at the end of the blade and put the blade, aligning it at the corners and pressing it against the axis of the screw. A drop along the way lubricates the edges of the hole.

The new propeller is ready.

We state that from Zarkov's patterns in this way it is possible to glue the blades that ALMOST correspond to the drawings.

Hey doctor Zarkov! really precise model. We got somewhere a little bit angular, somewhere a little bit uneven, somewhere narrow - but generally true. Apparently, the patterns were not designed for our method - maybe the leading edges should be drawn a little wider and more convex. I wish he described somewhere how to make blades... Nevertheless, we will remember our method for the future - we are going to glue something else from Zarkov.

5. Wing frame and landing gear niches

glue wing frame, adhering to the sequence proposed in the instructions.

We cut out the details of the wing frame, as always, strictly in the middle of the dividing lines. Align the cut parts at the ends with sandpaper and make them flat. We glue, applying Super PVA to all joints.

We glue chassis bays. We glue them to the frame, using the rough prints of the wing patterns as templates - this allows you to accurately glue the niches.

Having glued the niches, we recall that our future model should at least ride on the table without consequences.

Following the recommendations of previous builders (for example, V. Sokolts- http://www.modelism.airforce.ru/paperwings/mig-3/index.htm) , we strengthen the niches at the points of future attachment of the landing gear. To do this, the upper planes of the niches near the ribs are brought to the level of the upper edges of the ribs. For this we use not cardboard (the level difference between the upper planes of the niches and the upper edges of the ribs is uneven), but pieces of paper - we stick them until the levels match. We do not regret Clay.

In conclusion, we glue connecting strips on the extreme ribs - they must exactly lie on the upper planes of the niches extended with paper near the ribs, which is what happens.

6. Fuselage - method and result

We glue the fuselage a little differently than prescribed - namely, we glue it using paired frames and then gluing the resulting fuselage segments with the ends.

We use the following method:

1. We will not use connecting strips.

2. Paired frames will be glued directly into adjacent parts of the segment plating, and not strictly along the edge, but retreating 0.1 ... 0.2 mm deep into the segment - so that when folding adjacent segments, gaps between frames of 0.2 ... 0.4 mm are obtained.

3. Then we will glue the resulting segments, applying Super PVA "roller" or "drops" around the perimeter of the frame, retreating 3 ... 5 mm from the edge of the frame and folding the segments to dry.

The advantage of this method stems from the property of PVA to decrease in volume upon drying. The “roller” or “drops” of PVA, having dried, “tighten” the frames, and hence the ends of the skins of the segments, ensuring their precise and tight fit. The residual stress created by the "shrunken" PVA will ensure the strength of the bonding and the absence of gaps.

Actually, this method is prescribed and used in the assembly of many high-end cardboard models. The only thing we add to this method is a gap between adjacent frames and "pulling" with the help of PVA.

So, let's act.

Frames we cut it out, slightly retreating outward from the marking lines - by 0.2 ... 0.3 mm - since the author designed them for connecting strips, that is, about this amount less than we need for the method we have chosen. Visually, this means that we cut a little further than the black marking line - so that a thin white edge remains. We cut out the frames in pairs - we have already prepared double stickers on cardboard.

We grind the cut frames in pairs with sandpaper until their edges are perfectly aligned and even. When turning, we check with the draft patterns of the segment skins cut out of paper, ensuring that the edges of the segments lie flat on the edges of the frames and that the circumferences of the frames are exactly the same length as the length of the edges of the corresponding skins of the segments into which they will be glued.

Where the segments are not cylindrical, but cone-shaped, we grind the edges of the frames at an appropriate angle. Again, we check with draft patterns.

To install the propeller, we provide holes of 2 mm in frames 12 and 15. In the remaining frames, we cut out technological holes, as shown.

Next, we glue the segments with the "Moment", remembering that the frames should "sink" into the segments by 0.1 ... 0.2 mm. The only exception is segment 8: there, the rear end of the cabin body is designed for gluing exactly along the rear cut of the skin part 8. Therefore, so that the cabin does not “slide” forward, the frame 8f, glued into the rear end of part 8, is cut out separately from thin hard cardboard 0.25 mm and glue exactly along the cut of the trailing edge of the skin part 8 (in fact, first glue it to the rear end of the cabin body, and then glue it together with the cabin body):

As a result, we get a set of segments for gluing.

We have three segments with holes for inserting a propeller:

We check the resulting segments "for quality" - all ends should be almost flat. In addition, since when cutting out the skins of the fuselage segments, we cut strictly in the middle of the marking lines, halves of these lines remain on the edges of the skins. This is not very good: if these lines are left not only where they mark the edges of the skin sheets on a real aircraft, but also where there are no edges according to the drawings, the fuselage will remain "painted" with these extra lines. Our model is already too dotted with black lines. Therefore, we “saw” the black lines from the edges of the skins of the segments with sandpaper where they are not needed, referring to the drawings of the aircraft and moving the sandpaper “from top to bottom” at an angle of 30 ... 45 degrees to the skin plane. We “cut” carefully: although we use rather thick photographic paper, the edges of the skins of the segments should not become too thin. We succeed - the photo paper we used is quite hard, and the photo layer is scanty, so the extra lines are "cut off" easily and without consequences.

Next, glue the segments, starting with the "tail" (from the keel). The only exception is the 8/9 pair, which we glue immediately and first of all. When gluing segments 16 and 17, we take into account the weight of the keel - under the edge of segment 16, when gluing, we put a piece of cardboard so that segment 17 with the keel is evenly pressed by its own weight to segment 16.

When gluing each pair of segments, we "drip" PVA onto the frame, as described above. We make 8 drops of sufficient height (about 1 mm) and immediately fold the segments. We orient the segments visually along the keel (which was glued first precisely in order to serve as a guide) and along the marking lines on the frames. Carefully align the edges.

Thus, our fuselage "grows" until it grows to the end. The procedure is lengthy: each joint requires at least several hours to dry, so it takes a couple of mornings (or mornings - how right?) And evenings to glue together. After drying the next joint, we make sure that the edges of the skins match well. We succeed, except for the junction of segments 14 and 15 (whether due to negligence or for other reasons) - however, this junction also looks tolerable, if not looked at under a magnifying glass.

So, the fuselage is ready. Immediately from a suitable cardboard we glue a slipway for further assembly under frames 9b and 12b (114 x 60 x 80 mm) so that the model can be laid both up and down "with its feet". The slipway is absolutely necessary, because without it, further fuss with the model will "age" it more than a couple of years of standing on the shelf.

We grind "extra" black lines not only from the edges of the skin of the fuselage segments, but also from all other parts - from the trailing edge of the keel, for example, from the edges of the keel fairings, etc.:

The channels of the barrels of weapons with us, like with other assemblers, are obtained with considerable difficulty and not very well. We work on them with sandpaper and white paint, achieving at least a decent look. We immediately glue the trunks from the scraps of the sheath of a thin black wire - we make the middle one thicker.

7. Wings

We assemble and sheathe the wings according to the instructions, no gag. However, consider that when gluing the skin, special accuracy will be required. Therefore, we sew in such a sequence.

1. We glue the skin butt center section. We dry. On the wrong side of the center section skins, draw the center line of the spar and draw lines from it on both sides by 0.6 mm, along which we will set the edges of the spar (0.6 mm - so that these lines can be seen when we put the frame on the center section skins).

2. Accurately and carefully glue the lower edge of the spar to the skins of the center section, doing this on a perfectly flat surface (our plexiglass) and pressing the spar to it from above. We dry.

During the test fitting of the top of the center section skin, it turns out that one of its edges does not fit snugly against the top of the rib - somewhere we made a mistake. We build up the front end of the rib with paper over the connecting strip - this is shown in the photo above. Nevertheless, the error is saved somewhere - later we will have to correct this side of the wing (slightly trim the trailing edge - more on that below).

Now glue consoles. First, glue the glazing of the headlight and the image of the lamp. We cut out the glazing of the headlight from the thinnest polyester film - a film of 0.1 mm will not work, because it will warp the wing skin. We can easily find such a thin film in an unnecessary photo album - pockets for photos are made from such a film.

(in this photo, by the way, you can see that the skin of this console will still lie on the rib inaccurately - this is the same rib that we built up, not quite neat!)

Next, glue the skins of the consoles - first the bottom, then the top. Do not forget about the prescribed connecting strips. We glue again in stages, each time after gluing we press the console to a flat surface until dry and make sure that the bottom surface of the console is in an ideal plane (spar - rib - trailing edge).

The wings are ready. Everything came together almost perfectly - except that the rear edge of one console had to be trimmed by 0.5 mm and a little bit the rear edge of the center section. However, we notice that the upper surfaces of the consoles are not perfectly flat and slightly wavy in reflected light:

Apparently, our photo paper is too thin for such large, slightly curved surfaces, and the frame of the consoles is practically absent - one unfortunate spar. It was necessary either to glue the skins of the consoles with paper for rigidity, or to add ribs - most likely the second. Nevertheless, it turned out tolerably, so we leave it.

8. Final collection and result

Collected wings and fuselage We connect (for sure!) And install fairings. When installing them, no problems are found, and you don’t even have to cut them - you can mold the paper in the right way without cutting. However, the air intakes on the wings are not very good - even though we moved the front edges of the fairings lower, the air intake openings turn out to be slanted, although they are straight in the drawings. But there's nothing to be done - it's designed that way.

When installing chassis we use a simple but convenient home-made template - a guideline. We take the angle of inclination of its front plane from the drawings, the side plane is a right angle.

We glue the chassis like this.

1. Using Super PVA, we glue the end of the rack (having greased it) and the side of the rack (thinly spread it), respectively, to the upper wall of the niche (we reinforced it with stickers to the level of the rib - it turned out very hard) and to the side wall of the niche (it is also rigid - glued to rib). We put on the template, wait until it dries.

2. Then we “plaster” the upper end of the rack (which is in a niche) and the adjacent side eraser of the niche with ordinary glue for models (this is the one that is plastic dissolved in a solvent) in several layers until a sufficiently strong plastic “shirt” is obtained at the upper end racks and the adjacent wall of the niche. This "shirt" is almost imperceptible (the glue is transparent and does not touch the paint), but it provides sufficient bending / torsion strength of the rack (peel strength is provided by gluing the end of the rack to the top wall of the PVA niche).

The landing gear wings (upper edges) are also carefully glued to the wing and to the rack - with drops of model glue. Do not forget that with proper installation, the wings do not adjoin the wing with the entire upper edge, but only with its front end.

We detail the rest. sashes side radiators on the engine we make it half-open and a little differently - according to the drawings, and not according to the patterns:

Pitot tube we also do according to the drawings, and as expected, from a needle from a syringe (having sharpened the end at a right angle!).

rack antennas glue on a steel wire, insert its end (1 cm) exactly between the frames at the junction of the fuselage segments - rigidity is ensured.

We make the antenna from a thin steel-colored wire extracted from a thin Chinese-made stranded wire (the Chinese are not rich in copper, so apparently they make wires from whatever they have to). The wire, despite the color, is soft, and the antenna is easily installed in tiny loops glued to the rack and to the keel. We imitate the tensioner and antenna insulators in a known way - with white paint. It turns out almost a real antenna.

The rest of the parts are installed as expected. We do not experience any difficulties, everything converges exactly.

Result: put on a shelf and wait for little techies to take care of it.

Since this is our first model made according to ModelArt patterns, let's draw some conclusions.

1. Despite the fact that we chose the paper of the right thickness (150 g / m2), cut it accurately and glued it neatly, we had no problems with the accuracy of the patterns. Everything matched exactly.

2. The correspondence of the model to the original (judging by the drawings) is maintained - with the exception of the air intakes on the wings, which, as it seems to us, are not the same as in the drawings and photos of the aircraft. This was discussed above.

3. Graphics: When printing on glossy photo paper, everything turned out well. The only thing is that the patterns are too painted with black lines. As we noted above, we "sawed off" the extra blackness where it was possible and unnecessary, but still the "striations" are somehow noticeable. Maybe the authors should have chosen the color of the lines "gray", and add some three-dimensionality (for example, at the junctions of fixed and moving planes - on the model it is noticeable that the ailerons are roughly "drawn").

4. The overall impression of the result: the model looks attractive, and despite the fact that it is made of glossy photographic paper, it is not striking that it is made of paper. They say it's "plastic". However, with external attractiveness, it is, of course, rustic in detailing - this is especially noticeable in the landing gear, the cockpit, on closer inspection, also does not shine with "naturalness".

In general, the model is so ... "holiday". but it's not exactly "real". The ratings of those who saw it were different - "beautiful", "like made of plastic", but "like a real one" - no one said. OK. Still, from wartime MiGs, this is the most worthwhile cardboard project. And the MiG itself at the beginning of the war worked better than the "Lavochkins" and "Yaks" - there were more MiGs in the troops, and he was the most "brought" of this trinity.

Now we can already say that we made this model not only because we "liked it", but with the aim of making a series of fighter models of the initial period of the war. "Hurricane", "Zero" and "Messer" have already been ordered, on the table - P-40N (again from ModelArt - it makes sense to assemble it quickly before the skills are lost). About this - in a separate topic. Well, and then, apparently, it is necessary to assemble the best cars - again, the Spitfire, La-7, and, of course, the Mustang are ordered. While we are looking for decent patterns for the best "Japanese" ("Frank"?) And FW-190.

22.07.2007

PS.

The choice of glossy photo paper for this particular model turned out to be especially successful. Matte paper would emphasize the details of the graphics (already not very realistic) and the "paperiness" of the model. If varnished after assembly, then again, it seems to us that the "shiny" varnished model would look like varnished paper. And yes, it would look a little different. And photographic paper does not shine, namely, it gleams evenly in the reflected rays, emphasizing the volume. Very well.

P.P.S. Redesigned propeller

The propeller (version 2) turned out well, but the propeller for the P-40N turned out even better. Therefore, they decided to redo it in the same way as

The MIG-21 supersonic fighter aircraft is a cantilever monoplane with a delta wing and swept tail. Depending on the modification, the aircraft can carry two to four air-to-air, air-to-surface missiles, aerial bombs and containers with unguided rockets, as well as a rapid-firing aircraft cannon.

The aircraft is equipped with a turbojet engine with an afterburner.

The MIG-21 was put into service in 1959. Basically, these aircraft were produced as interceptors and fighters to ensure air superiority. However, the ability of the aircraft to carry a variety of weapons, as well as the subsequent improvement of the airframe, power plant and equipment, made it possible to use it for direct support of troops and tactical reconnaissance. To make a bench model of this fighter, you will need drawing paper, thick cardboard, transparent film, steel wire with a diameter of 1 and 1.5 mm. Common tools: scissors, pencil, awl. Let us explain some notation in the figures of this model.

Gargrot adjoins the cockpit canopy and forms a single whole with it.

First, cut a hole in section 4 and glue the details of the interior design of the cabin through it: the chair (parts 51 and 52), the dashboard 48 and the aiming head 47. Then cut out the frames E, G, 3, and fairing, glue them with connecting tapes E' W', 3', I' and glue to the fuselage.

Make the cockpit lantern transparent, then the model will become more like a real fighter. To do this, cut parts 18 and 20 from the film. Cut slots in sections 3, 4, insert the spikes of the parts cut out of the film into them on the glue. Stick linings 17, 19 on the lantern and glue parts 21, 22, 24, 25 in succession. The "lantern - fairing" assembly is assembled.

The wing consists of two planes 10k of the frame: parts M, H and 53 (see Fig. 71, b - “Wing assembly”).

Cut out the spars M, H of the wing cops from cardboard: scissors, pencil, awl. Let us explain some notation in the figures of this model.

The model consists of a cardboard frame - its parts are marked with letters, paper sheathing - its scans are numbered with Arabic numerals and wire parts - they are numbered with Roman numerals (Fig. 66, a). Letters with dashes indicate connecting tapes. They are cut out of paper and glued onto cardboard frames marked with the same letters as the tapes, only without a stroke.

The dashed line on the development (Fig. 67) indicates the location of the sticker of another, smaller detail. The sign "(" means that the sweeps need to be given a convex shape.

Parts marked with the spiral sign “a” must be rolled up. Carefully understand the drawings (they are reduced from the natural size of the model by 1.5 times), prepare the tools, materials and get to work. And we will try to help you by talking in detail about the manufacture of the main parts.

Fuselage (Fig. 66, b). All parts of the fighter are attached to it, and start making a model from it.

First of all, cut out the cardboard parts of the fuselage - frames B, C, D (Fig. 67). Paste them with connecting tapes B ', C ', G '(Fig. 67 and 68). Then prepare paper parts - sweeps 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7. Pull them over the edge of the table so that they are easier to roll into cylinders and cones, and glue.

Then transfer all the scans from our drawings (Fig. 69 and 70), mark them with numbers and cut out the details.

Glue frames B and C into conical sections 3, 4, 6 (see Fig. 66, b). Now, insert frames G from both sides into the central section 5 and glue all the bow and tail sections to it one by one (Fig. 71, b - “Connection of sections”).

From blanks 50 and 54, glue the cylinders so that the black-painted surface is inside. Glue cylinder 50 into the bow section 2, then cylinder 49 with two frames A and a glued cone 1 (the cone is also reinforced with a frame; see Fig. 66, b).

Insert the cardboard spar J1 with glue into the slots cut in the tail section 7. Reinforce the cylinder 54 with frame D and glue the cone 55 with frame A into it. Insert the resulting assembly into the tail section 7 and glue it to the spar J1.

Glue crest 30 to the tail sections of the fuselage from below.

Tail plumage. The stabilizer spar (part JI) is fixed. Now bend its protruding ends so that 45 ° angles are obtained between them and the fuselage (see Fig. 71, b).

Glue two parts 9 of the stabilizer, put them on the spars and glue. Glue the parts assembled from three parts to the ends of the stabilizer 8 .

Glue the keel frame (part K) to sections 6 and 7. Sew the keel skin from workpiece 27. Glue the resulting part on the frame K.

Glue parts 26, 28, 29 last.

and insert them with glue into the slots cut in the central section 5. Bend the spar M at the points of its connection with the fuselage so that the ends of the spar M and H are connected. Glue the spars, and then reinforce the frame with triangular overlays 53 made of thick paper from above and below. The frame is ready. Now, from blanks 10, bend and glue two wing planes, grease the frame ribs with glue, put the right and left planes on its protruding ends and glue them with the end parts to the fuselage.

Pay attention to the fact that only the right plane is scanned in the drawing. To get a scan of the left plane, copy scan 10 onto a tracing paper, turn it over and transfer the resulting image to paper. Attach the aerodynamic fins 33 to the ends of the wing.

And now proceed to the manufacture of the chassis. From a wire with a diameter of 1 mm, bend parts II, III (in Figure 71, and they are shown one and a half times less than their natural size) and wrap them, respectively, with paper reamers 38, 45. Secure the paper on the landing gear with glue.

Glue each chassis wheel from four cardboard discs C (the wheel of the front chassis is glued from discs T), pierce holes in them with an awl and install them on the axles of the racks. Fix the wheels of the main chassis (node ​​II) on both sides with film washers. Supplement the front landing gear with detail 44. Now pierce holes in the fuselage and wing planes with an awl and stick the landing gear lubricated with glue into them.

Glue the landing gear hatch doors from blanks 39 and 46 by bending them in half.

Fasten the flaps to the fuselage with spikes and glue, and the shields 37 to the wing planes. Bend the ends of the shields 37 and flaps 39 as shown in Figure 66, a.

Tank and rockets. The hanging tank (parts 41, 42, 43, etc.) is assembled similarly to the fuselage (see Fig. 66, b "Fuselage and Hanging Tank Assembly Scheme"). The glued tank is suspended from the fuselage on pylon 40.

We think that you will also easily cope with the assembly of rockets. Glue the finished rockets to the guides 34 (their reamers are bent in half, glued and fixed under the planes with spikes on the glue).

From a wire with a diameter of 1.5 mm, according to the dimensions of part I, make an air pressure receiver (AHP) of the speed indicator. In the bow section 2, pierce a hole with an awl and fix it in it with LDPE glue.

Glue parts 15 and 16 on the nose of the fuselage, 23 on the central part, and 31 and 32 on the tail part. This operation completes the assembly of the model.

Model finishing. Color the paper sheathing scans as soon as you transfer them to whatman paper. This will require aluminum and dark gray paint, black and red ink.

Paint all the scans with aluminum paint and apply lines imitating the skin on top of it with black ink. The front of part 2 and the back of part 7 should be dark grey. Details 1, 49, 14, 28, the upper part of the keel 27 and the stars, make red. Cover the finished fighter model with a colorless varnish or a thin layer of PVA glue.

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The approaching war, the hot breath of which was felt by both the politicians and the military of the leading powers of the world, led in the mid-thirties to a sharp increase in design work in the field of new weapons. Every conflict, every skirmish between the giants lurking in the shadows, was used to evaluate the capabilities of the enemy and test their own technological solutions.
Therefore, it is no coincidence that both in Spain and in the Far East, the latest technology was encountered in air battles from both sides. By the beginning of the fighting in Spain, the I-15 and their modifications were the basis of the Soviet aviation fleet. And although the basic models of German fighters Bf.109 B and C did not differ much in their characteristics from our machines, the appearance of new versions - Bf.109 D and E turned out to be a very unpleasant surprise. It was not even a matter of more powerful weapons or the speed of new models. The problem was that the reserves of the I-16 and I-15 modifications had already been exhausted by that time, while the Messerschmitt had fairly good prospects. Of course, the situation was not hopeless, it was simply necessary to develop a fundamentally new fighter model.
The formation of the appearance of the new machine was greatly influenced, first of all, by the idea of ​​​​the prospects for air combat in the upcoming war. The idea of ​​a "falcon strike" based on the use of an advantage in speed required the designers to create a fighter with flight speeds of less than 600 km / h (against 570 / h for the Bf.109 E), and the development of their own high-altitude bombers, such as the TB-7 , led to the belief that the main dogfights would take place at medium and high altitudes. However, in any case, a promising fighter had to surpass foreign counterparts in flight, tactical and firepower.

Design work on the new machine, which received the working title I-200, began under the leadership of N. N. Polikarpov in 1939. this project were transferred to the newly formed design bureau. Work on the fighter went at a Stakhanov pace. The preliminary design of the I-200 was started on November 25, 1939. Within 2 days, a team of 70 people was created, which continued to work on the creation of the aircraft. A month later, by December 25, the layout was ready, and the next day the production of working drawings began. In parallel, technological and production problems were solved. And three months later, on March 31, 1940, the first prototype of the I-200 was lifted into the air by test pilot A.N. Yekatov.

Initially, it was planned to install the AM-37 engine on the I-200, but by the end of the project it was not yet ready, and therefore the aircraft was equipped with the AM-35A engine, which, of course, had a negative effect on its flight characteristics. And still, the I-200 overcame the barrier of 600 km / h! Therefore, immediately after the acceptance of the prototype by the State Commission, the fighter was put into production on May 31, 1940 under the name MiG-1. At the same time, the design bureau began to carry out improvements and modifications, which immediately went to the manufacturer. And after the first hundred mass-produced samples, an actually new car came off the assembly line, which was called the MiG-3.

By the beginning of the war, the MiG-3 was the most numerous new-generation fighter in the Red Army. It should be noted that it was the fastest fighter in the world, reaching speeds of 640 km / h at an altitude of 7800 m. But at medium and lower altitudes, the aircraft's flight characteristics dropped sharply - after all, it was a high-altitude fighter. In addition, the management of the MiG-3 required highly qualified pilots, which reduced the effectiveness of its use "in the masses." But in the hands of a master who possessed not only piloting skills, but also tactical literacy, the MiG-3 turned into a formidable combat vehicle. It was on the MiG-3 that three times Hero of the Soviet Union A. I. Pokryshkin shot down 10 enemy aircraft, including 5 Bf.109 E fighters. Heroes of the Soviet Union B. F. Safonov and S. P. Suprun fought twice on this aircraft, Heroes Soviet Union K. K. Kokkinaki, P. F. Stefanovsky and others.

And yet, the MiG-3 was not sufficiently mastered by combatant pilots to fully use its capabilities. Compared to the I-16, the MiG-3 was difficult to pilot, especially when landing, which led to a fairly high accident rate. Therefore, at the suggestion of test pilot S.P. Suprun, two MiG-3 regiments with a large percentage of experienced pilots were formed to disseminate experience. This helped to improve the piloting skills of the entire flight crew, and the pilots from the Suprun regiment shot down up to seven enemy aircraft on a day of fighting in July 1941. But, of course, the qualifications of the pilots could not compensate for the shortcomings of the fighter at low altitudes. Therefore, the MiG-3 simply could not be used as a front-line fighter.

But in the battles for Moscow in the autumn of 1941, during the defense of Stalingrad, in the battles for the Bryansk region, in the Kuban and Crimea, the MiG-3 demonstrated its excellent performance as a high-altitude air defense fighter. Its large ceiling and speed proved to be decisive factors in many cases.

During the air battle for Moscow in 1941, the MiG-3 proved to be the decisive factor in deterring the Nazi air armada. It was in the air defense that the strengths of the fighter were most clearly manifested. Of the 4200 German aircraft that raided Moscow from July 21 to October 1, 1941, only 120 aircraft broke through to the city. More than half of the destroyed enemy aircraft fell on the MiG-3.

In 1942, the production of the MiG-3 was discontinued, the front needed Il-2 attack aircraft. But the capacities of factories for the production of AM-35A engines, which were installed on both the Il-2 and the MiG-3, were sorely lacking. And the choice was made in favor of attack aircraft, because in addition to the Migs there were also Yak-i and LaGG-i, and there was simply no alternative to the IL-2 at that time. But until the end of the war, the MiG-3 continued to protect the sky - the high manufacturability of the design and the interchangeability of components were exceptional. Aircraft mechanics right on the field airfields managed to assemble one whole from two or three faulty aircraft. Therefore, almost until the end of the war, the MiG-3 remained in service.

The MiG-3 is the firstborn of the Mikoyan-Gurevich design bureau, which made an invaluable contribution to our Victory in the most difficult years. A high-quality and beautiful model from ModelArt will become a worthy decoration of your collection.

Basic performance data
Wingspan: 10.2 m
Length: 8.155 m
Height: 2.61 m
Takeoff weight: 3350 kg
Maximum speed 640 km/h
Ceiling: 12000 m
Armament: BS machine gun (300 rounds) - 1, ShKAS machine gun (750 rounds) - 2, FAB-50, 100 - 2, 25 - 4 bombs, RS-82 shells - 6 pcs.

Model parameters
Period: World War II
Country: USSR
Publisher: ModelArt/RE #1/2002
Scale 1:33
Dimensions: 320*250*80mm
Volume: 6 A4 sheets
Degree of difficulty: 3

It is very easy to make a paper model of the MiG 25 if there is a template. In this master class, it is attached. Along the way, we will explain and demonstrate how to fold and glue it so that both you and your children can play with a paper plane.

materials

To make a MiG 25 out of paper with your own hands, you will need:

• paper;
• thick cardboard;
• templates;
• Printer;
• scissors;
• glue;
• acrylic paints;
• masking tape;
• brushes.

Step 1. First of all, you will need to print out the templates below for making a paper MiG 25. It is advisable to print them on thick cardboard. If your printer doesn't allow it, just gently stick the printed A4 sheet over the cardboard base. When gluing, make sure that air bubbles do not form.

Step 2. Cut out blanks for the plane.

Step 3. Fold the blanks you have, taking into account all the fold lines. Fold all parts of the product without the use of glue to make sure that you have assembled correctly and there is no need to fit the components of the aircraft. If everything fits together, glue the plane together. Let the glue dry thoroughly.

Step 4. Carefully cover the edges of the product with masking tape so that it looks neater in the end.

Step 5. Now you can start coloring the paper plane. Apply a solid tone that simultaneously masks the tape along the edges of the product. For this work, it is better to use acrylic paints, although gouache applied in a dense layer is also suitable.

Step 6. Decorate the plane with flags or country symbols. Let the paint dry and after that your paper MiG 25 is ready!