Pura besakih temple complex located. Cat Travel Stories. Where are you without security?

In fact, the Besakih temple is not one temple, but a whole complex of 22 temples located on the main mountain-volcano Gunung Agung in an area of ​​3 square kilometers. The largest of them are Penataran Agung Temple (Shiva Temple), Batu Madeg Temple (Vishnu Temple) and Kiduling Kreteg Temple (Brahma Temple).

This huge temple complex, built around the 11th century, is located at an altitude of 1000 meters above sea level. To build this architectural creation, the money for its construction was collected from all the Balinese kingdoms. During its centuries-old history, the temple was restored only once - after the volcanic eruption in 1917, the eruption in 1963 did not cause any damage to the temple, while many buildings on the island of Bali were completely destroyed.

The road to the temple is a long staircase that ends with a high gate and leads to the most important temple in this complex - the State Temple of Pura Penataran (Pura Penataran Agung), around which there are small family crypts. In it you can see a huge statue of Geruda, under which is the throne of the main deity Trimurti with seats for the gods Vishnu, Shiva and Brahma.

Despite the high popularity of this attraction, the temple complex was able to maintain some mystery. Tourists can only move around the very territory of the temple complex; only Hindus are allowed to enter the courtyard.

On the territory of Pura Besakih you can buy various souvenirs, so it will not be superfluous to take some money with you.

Fabulous Bali is a religious island. There are much more holy places and churches here than residential buildings: almost every village on the island has at least three churches. Moreover, each local dwelling has its own home altar. Basically, it is located in the courtyard of the house, but if the territory of the latter is small, then the altar is erected on the roof of a residential building.

One of the main temples in Bali is the legendary temple of Pura Besakih on the northwest side of Mount Agung - the largest point of the island, with a height of 3142 meters. This elevation is located in the eastern part of the Indonesian island and is considered the abode of the powerful Batara Mahadeva, the true embodiment of the supreme multi-armed Hindu deity Shiva. It is believed that it is in this place of the earth that the so-called "Axis of the World" is located, which, according to the legend of the ancients, is the center of rotation of the universe. In addition to the volcano, there are three more sacred peaks on the island of Bali - Abang, Batur and Batukaru.

The temple of Pura Besakih appeared on the island more than 1 thousand years ago. The first mention of this sacred place can be found in old documents dating back to 1284. But these written references do not concern the construction of the temple, but the activities of the existing object. Therefore, the question of exactly when Pura Besakih was built is still open.

Many scientists say that some stone structures on the territory of the complex are about 2 thousand years old. Others, in their opinion, were built much later. The Balinese have their own versions of the origin of the temple complex. According to one legend, a wanderer monk was engaged in the creation of the temple in the 8th century. According to another, it was the initiative of the Raja Kesari in the 10th century. But there is no documentary evidence of these facts today.

Since the 11th century, there has been no mention of the Pura Besakih complex in any written chronicle. And only in the 15th century, when the central part of the island became a political center, records of Pura Besakih again began to be found in various documents. For example, in one chronicle there is a documentary note that this holy place is considered a state temple.

One of the most important events in the history of the temple complex is the eruption of Mount Agung in 1917, which resulted in its complete destruction. The restoration of the temple after the tragedy was carried out by residents of all regions of the island. They literally collected it bit by bit.

The next similar eruption occurred in the spring of 1693. At this time of the year, the locals were going to celebrate the festival of harmony, held once a century - Eka Dasa Rudra. It is noteworthy that some time before this, local residents noted an excess of the usual temperature regime of the soil at the foot of the volcano. The clergy began to say that this phenomenon is a manifestation of the wrath of God, and the festive ceremony should be postponed. However, no one listened to their opinion.

The volcanic crater exploded on March 18, 1963. Lava flows descended the slopes of the mountain and burned almost everything in their path. More than 1.7 thousand people died as a result of the magma ejection, and many Balinese lost their roof over their heads. Surprisingly, the lava flow did not touch the territory of the temple, it passed literally a few meters from it. Pious Balinese considered this a sign from above. And the veneration of the temple after the volcanic eruption in 1963 increased many times over. To date, the volcano has been active only twice: in 2017 and 2018. And, fortunately, these were inferior lava eruptions from the crater.

Today, the Pura Besakih Temple of the Balinese has the status of the "mother of all temples." According to local residents, this unique place protects the island from natural disasters and helps to communicate with the deities. The sacred complex received such a loud name also because it is the oldest and main temple in Bali, the source of the spread of Hinduism in these places.

What does the temple look like

This sacred complex, stretching for 3 thousand meters, includes three large temples, each of which is associated with a specific Hindu deity. The main entrance to the temple is decorated with massive gates, decorated with carvings and statues-defenders. Not far from it there is a restaurant and numerous souvenir shops, among which cunning islanders wander, trying to get some money from gullible tourists for accompanying walks around the temple grounds. The proposals of such guides should be treated with extreme caution. At the end of such an impromptu excursion, the final cost is usually significantly different from what was agreed at the beginning.

In the center of the sacred complex rises the largest shrine - Agung Panataran, in which the destroyer god Shiva is worshiped. A little to the east is the temple of Dangin Kreteg, dedicated to the creator god Brahma. And closer to the west is the temple of Batu Madeg, which is the abode of the guardian god Vishnu. The device of the entire temple complex allows numerous visitors to Pura Besakih to pray, both to each of these deities separately, and to all at once. It is also interesting that each of the buildings today is financed from the budget of one of the island districts. Thus, Besakih unites all Balinese.

From the point of view of architecture, Agung Panataran is considered the most interesting building on the territory of the complex. This temple includes three courtyards, symbolizing the border zone that separates earthly, everyday life from the divine principle. Each of them has the shape of a regular rectangle. Almost all the buildings in the territory of the large temple are painted black. This is due to the fact that the building material in these parts was once cooled volcanic lava, which eventually turned into stone.

The first courtyard in the main temple serves as a kind of entrance hall, and to get here, you need to overcome 52 steps, decorated with statues of mythical creatures. On holidays, each stone statue is "dressed" in a sarong - a multi-colored piece of fabric that encircles the lower part of the statue. The entrance to the first courtyard is through the "split gate" Chandi Bentar, symbolizing the split of the sacred mountain into two parts. This place serves as a preparatory area for believers: here they prepare for the upcoming religious ceremonies.

The second courtyard is hidden behind a no less luxurious gate, lavishly decorated with stone decorations. Behind them are:

• a throne for deities on which Shiva sits;
• the Sanukhan-Agung room, where, according to legend, the gods gather on holidays and accept numerous gifts from visitors, laid by the latter at the altar;
• the indoor pavilion Bale-Agung, designed for prayers or waiting for the end of cremation during Hindu funerals;
• and the house of the clergy of Pavedazhan, closed to the public.

The third courtyard in the temple is designed in the form of terraces located on top of each other. There are traditional temple buildings in the form of towers. All the local pagodas have different heights and have an unequal number of floors (always odd). This is due to the fact that each tower in the courtyard is associated with some particular deity. And the more this or that god is revered among the local inhabitants of the island, the more tiers the tower associated with it has. For example, a building with eleven floors serves as a haven for the supreme deity Shiva and the goddess of fertility Devi Shri, and a tower with nine is intended for Vishnu and Brahma. The lowest tower has only three tiers. Inside the third courtyard, a church for blacksmiths was also built - Pande Vesi and two buildings of a closed type: a building dedicated to the god Shiva, and a small building built in honor of the ancestors of the former Rajas of Klungkung, who were considered sacred in Bali.

In addition to large temples, inside the Besakih complex there are 19 more small religious buildings, as well as outbuildings and barns. Each small church building also has its own purpose. Temples are divided into communal, clan or caste. And many of them are open only to certain visitors.

During festive ceremonies, the vast territory of the entire temple complex is decorated with multi-colored flowers and cuts of colorful fabrics. The main colors of the festive decor here are: white, red, black and yellow. The largest celebration - Galungan, or the day of the "victory of good over evil", held on the territory of the temple, is celebrated for about 10 days. This long event ends with the Kuningan ceremony - a meeting with the spirits of ancestors at the festive table. These days, not only the temple complex of Pura Besakih is being transformed, but the entire island of Bali, like Europe before Christmas.

The fortunate remote location and special sacred location of Pura Besakih make this place extremely interesting for visitors who want to practice meditation. It is not only the peaceful atmosphere that envelops the small shrines and the main temples of the complex, but also a very unusual landscape: beautiful vegetation growing in these places and stunning panoramas opening from high observation platforms located on the territory of the complex .

How to get to the sacred place

Pura Besakih is located 63 km from Denpasar, and you can get here either by rented transport or taxi, or as part of an excursion group. In the first case, the road from the specified settlement will take 1.5 hours. After leaving the city, you will need to move to the East, through the small town of Semanrapura, to the settlement of Besakih. In the second, the tourist office will deliver the excursion group to the car park, located 1 thousand meters from the goal. She will have to walk the rest of the way on her own.

Those tourists who decide to get to the sacred complex on their own, on a rented bike or by car, will definitely need to take a navigator with them so as not to accidentally get lost on the road. Of course, there are road signs in Bali, but you should not count on their accuracy. Without a navigator, it will not be easy to get directions from the locals here: many of them do not even understand English, not to mention Russian.

Also, when traveling by car, be sure to fill a full tank. Driving on a mountain road requires much more fuel than traveling on a straight road. And staying with an empty tank halfway somewhere in the middle of the forests is not the best prospect to spend your free time.

From Densapar, the Besakih complex can also be reached by public bus, which leaves from the Batubulan terminal, located 8 km from the administrative center of Bali. Such a road will, of course, not be very pleasant for a visiting tourist: a slow journey under the sizzling sun is unlikely to leave bright memories for anyone.

Another way to get to the territory of the complex is hitchhiking. And this method is chosen by many visiting tourists. Hitchhiking will especially appeal to those who love free movement, new acquaintances and communication with local residents.

The Pura Besakih temple is open to the public every day and receives visitors from sunrise to sunset. The ticket office of the sacred complex is open from 8 am to 5 pm. Tourists who want to fully enjoy all the local beauties, it is better to come here in the morning. During the day, the temple becomes very crowded, and in the late afternoon, Pura Besakih, located at an altitude of more than 1 thousand meters above sea level, often covers with darkness.

The cost of visiting the temple is 60 thousand rupees, children can enter the territory of Pura Besakih for free. Those who do not want to spend money on an entrance ticket can try to enter the territory of the complex in the early morning. In case of illegal entry, it is important not to accidentally catch the eye of the ticket office employee, so you should only leave the temple from the side exits.

When buying a “passage” to the temple, you must definitely ask the cashier for an entrance ticket, even if the seller offers to go without it. Of course, the availability of tickets from tourists is rarely checked on the territory of the temple, once again it will not be superfluous to play it safe. Moreover, it may turn out that the “checker” turns out to be not an employee of the temple complex at all - there are more than enough local residents who want to cheat an inexperienced tourist and get a few rupees from him.

You should not be interested in the services of local "guides" who impose their accompaniment on the site in front of the entrances to the shrine. Firstly, they brazenly lie, claiming that it will not work to go beyond the first courtyard without an escort. And secondly, such escorts are unlikely to be able to answer all questions and show extensively the entire territory of the complex, including hidden areas, and this was confirmed by many visiting tourists.

To avoid attacks from local residents, one should not enter the Besakih temple from the central side, but with the help of one of the side stairs. Almost all sellers "hunt" for gullible visitors at the main entrance. If you still have a desire to use the services of a guide, then you should definitely bargain with them. The normal price for a good guide is between $5 and $10.

An equally well-known “wiring”, often used by local residents, is the payment of a “donation”, the so-called financial donation for the development of the sacred complex. Particularly incredulous tourists at the entrance may even be shown a magazine with contributions allegedly made by other visitors, in which round sums will appear. Do not believe these fictitious records. In extreme cases, you can pay $ 1-2, no more.

A prerequisite for entering the temple is the presence of a sarong - a rectangular piece of fabric wound around the waist. You can bring it with you, buy it in souvenir shops at the entrance to the complex, or rent it there. In no case should you agree to the first announced price, even if merchants will bait tales that “you won’t find it cheaper” and “it will be impossible to buy further.” Need to bargain.

You should also not shop in local shops and souvenir shops. All products offered here can be bought much cheaper in other parts of Bali. If you really want to spend money on souvenirs and paintings sold at the temple, then again you need to bargain.

What else can you see near the temple

The main attraction of these places, in addition to the temple itself, which may be of interest to visitors, are, of course, the Agung and Batur volcanoes. For visiting tourists, they are especially attractive as objects for climbing.

The route to the top of the first volcano is quite difficult, especially in rainy weather. The climb to the top of the second is much easier. Both hills offer amazing views of the local surroundings. Tourists are recommended to climb volcanoes only accompanied by a qualified guide, in order to avoid injury.

No less attractive object for tourists in the vicinity of Pura Besakih is the Telaga Vaja River, which originates from the foot of the Agung volcano and flows towards the city of Semarapura. It belongs to the category of Bali's large watercourses and is perfect for rafting - sports rafting on 6-, 4- or 2-seater inflatable boats. Telaga Waja, which is a source of fresh water for the locals, is considered a sacred source among the Balinese.

Near the temple of Besakih there is also another reservoir - Lake Batur, which was formed at the bottom of the crater of the volcano of the same name as a result of an eruption more than 20 thousand years ago. Local residents associate a certain legend about water with it, according to which the Goddess of the lake, using the sources of this large reservoir located under its bottom, waters the entire island with healing water. On the eastern shore of the lake, there is a whole thermal complex where visiting tourists can fully relax in hot baths and swim in the pool.

Despite the intrusive locals and the peculiar weather conditions on the ground, Pura Besakih, like other temples in Bali, is a local attraction that you should definitely see with your own eyes. It really amazes with its magnificence and beauty. From the top platform of the Besakih temple complex, amazing views of fabulous Bali open up, and it’s simply impossible to leave here without a lot of colorful photos! By the way, taking pictures on the territory of the temple complex is officially allowed. And if you suddenly manage to accidentally get into this sacred place during a festive ceremony, then you can see the real life of the Balinese people, touch their living “non-tourist” culture, and also look at everything from the inside, through the eyes of local residents.

• Original name: Pura Besakih
• Working hours: 8 – 17 hours
• Recommended duration of visit: 1–2 hours
• The size: large complex temple (about 3 km²)
• Foundation date: first mention 1284
• Height above sea level: 1000 meters
• Coordinates: -8.37435, 115.450804
• The address: Besakih Village, Rendang, Karangasem, Bali 80863, Indonesia

general information

Bali is famous for its many Buddhist shrines and pilgrimage sites that attract tourists from all over the world. The Balinese themselves call their island the "Island of a Thousand Temples". The objects of worship here are not only temples, but also sacred mountains, which are able to purify a person on a spiritual level. One of the most revered hills is the highest mountain of the island called Gunung Agung, which reaches a height of 3142 meters. The mountain symbolizes the incarnation of the supreme God Shiva, therefore it is a sacred and revered territory.

On the southwestern slopes at the foot of the sacred mountain Gunung Agung, formed from a volcanic eruption, rises the majestic ancient temple complex Pura Besakih, which is considered the main asset not only of Bali, but of the entire Hindu world. This is the largest and extraordinarily beautiful temple where you can see the majestic statues of Buddha, Vishnu and Shiva. The locals call it differently, who is the "Temple of the Mother of Besakih", and who is the "Mother of all sacred temples." The name comes from ancient legends that the Balinese still believe in and follow all their principles.

History of Pura Besakih Temple

Pura Besakih Temple was built over a thousand years ago, but the first mention of it can be attributed to 1284, when it was discovered by expeditions from other countries. The locals believe that the shrine was built before the 8th century, and not by ordinary people, but by the Gods, who to this day live in the uppermost parts of the pagodas, protecting the island of Bali from evil spirits and all adversities.

During its existence Pura Besakih temple survived many different cataclysms, nevertheless, was able to resist and now pleases with its extraordinary beauty not only local Balinese, but also tourists from all over the world. The first tragedy is mentioned in 1917, when an unexpected eruption of the Gunung Agung volcano occurred, and the red-hot magma destroyed most of the shrine. The next eruption in 1963 was less destructive, so for half a century they were still able to restore it, collecting it almost bit by bit.

Legends associated with the temple

There are many legends associated with the appearance of the temple of Pura Besakih. They are recounted with great pleasure by local residents and guides to visiting tourists. One of them says that the temple was built by the will and powers of various gods and their kingdoms. Therefore, on its territory there are many different sculptures, strikingly different from each other.

Besakih Temple - Daily Hindu Ceremonies

According to the Balinese, the gods still live in temples, namely in the upper tiers of pagodas, and accept donations from people. That is why there are daily Hindu ceremonies attended by hundreds of Balinese.

Features of the structure of the temple and the surrounding area

The Pura Besakih complex includes 22 separate temples, each of which has its own special purpose and name, as it personifies a certain deity.

Features of the structure of the divine territory:

• the total area of ​​temple buildings and courtyards is more than 3 square kilometers;
• 18 main temples and 4 auxiliary ones;
• multi-meter ladders that allow you to understand at a higher level;
• at each level there are tents with benches where you can relax a little;
• on the first level is the Gamelan Orchestra;
• baskets of flowers and other decorations are placed everywhere to appease the spirits.

Due to the fact that the sacred buildings are located on the slopes of the mountain, from a distance it looks like a multi-tiered structure with grandiose rectangular vaults, striving upwards, stairs and divine statues, immersed in luxurious greenery.

Mysterious Besakih Temple in low clouds

The most significant and largest building in the complex is the Panataran Agung temple., where God Shiva is worshiped and prayed to, therefore white color prevails on the walls, which is noticeable even from afar. The sculptures, which are located nearby, are decorated with flowers and white sarongs. It is in this temple that the most important religious Buddhist ceremonies of Bali are held on holidays, where thousands of pilgrims from all over the world gather. Therefore, if you are lucky to get to the shrine on Hindu holidays, any tourist will be fascinated by the surrounding beauty.

What is the best way to get to Mount Gugung Agung?

Mount Gunung Agung of volcanic origin is located in the eastern part of the island, near the village of Besakih. You can get to the shrine very easily on a rented moped or as part of a tourist group by bus. At the same time, the parking lot is located a kilometer from the very entrance to the temple, so you have to walk a bit, but this does not mean at all that the path will be boring. Along the way to the foot of the mountain, there are a huge number of shops that offer various souvenirs, jewelry, flower baskets for offering to the gods, and of course sarongs, without which the Hindu religion forbids women and men from entering the temple.

Besakih temple, temple structures, view of the valley

IMPORTANT: It is better to go on an excursion early in the morning or in clear weather, because after lunch, almost the entire territory of the temple complex on the upper tiers is buried in the clouds held by Mount Agung. Being at an altitude of 990 meters above sea level, clouds are an everyday phenomenon here, so it rains very often. Many tourists recommend taking umbrellas with you, otherwise you will have to buy them from local merchants.

Besakih Temple - Surroundings

Every tourist who visits the ancient temple of Mother Pura Besakih will not only receive indelible impressions from what they see, but also receive blissful peace, touching the most spiritual creations on earth. After all it is here that the most significant and ancient shrines of the world are concentrated.

Pura Besakih is one of the most sacred places in Bali. The temple of menacing black color is located on the slope of the mighty volcano Agung. Quite a strange combination for worship. Nevertheless, the Balinese sincerely believe that this place is sacred, because once this temple saved an entire village by stopping the erupting lava from the bowels of the volcano. About this story, as well as about our trip with Mishutka to the temple of Pura Besakih, I want to tell you today.

The mighty Agung volcano can be seen from many cities and points in Bali, because it proudly rises above the plains and rice fields. But an interesting fact is that the opportunity to see Agung up close is quite rare, because. he gathers thunderclouds around him. So Mishutka and I traveled hundreds of kilometers that day, saw a lot of beautiful places and the weather was great, but, approaching Agung, everything changed dramatically and it became clear that we couldn’t see the top of the volcano today. It was densely covered with clouds.

We left the bike in the parking lot and walked towards the entrance. Beauty around!

To the left of the main staircase leading to the entrance gate, various guides are jostling. I can say right away that they are not mandatory, although they pour into the ears that without them the entry of an ordinary white mister is prohibited in many places. Not all temples are really allowed for tourists, but this is in accordance with religion, you must be a born Hindu, and if this is not so (which is most likely), then no guide will help you.

I nevertheless decided to use the services of a guide, deciding that $ 4 is not such a crazy amount for this pleasure, I thought he would tell me a lot of interesting things about such a huge and ancient temple complex. But the young man spoke poor English, almost didn’t say anything, only with my questions I pulled at least some information from him, but he answered them with monosyllabic phrases that clarified little and, on the contrary, left the impression that the guy didn’t knows. In general, the local guides' "fuck"))) They eat their bread in vain! I wish I had ordered through Tripster. Although more expensive, but much more interesting and understandable in the native mighty :)

There were almost no people, only rare lonely newcomers. I think we were lucky, in the crowd of tour groups I can't stand walking. And there are usually a lot of them here, because Pura Besakih is one of the main attractions of Bali. We were lucky to walk freely and calmly, examining all the details, of which there are many in the temple. Look how many spirits have settled on the sides) They sit and stare while you crawl up the stairs.

The ancient temple of Pura Beskah is located on terraces in six levels.

At each level of the square there are many temples of various shapes and types.

I don't think there is a single repetitive building here. But all as one black-black.

And everyone is “wearing” lovely hairy hats =)))

As the guide explained to me (there was some sense from him, apparently), that such multi-level stepped roofs symbolize castes. uh? I doubt it to be honest...

No, of course, I understand that this is Hinduism and the caste stratification accompanying it, but so that this is reflected directly in the temples? Kind of humiliating, no? Maybe a sudra cannot enter here either, like the white misters? Which, by the way, did not please with this, that they are knocked out of the entire caste system. In India, I still know, there I am forever someone else: /

It's hard to imagine, but the Pura Besakih temple in Bali is over 2000 years old. Mind unbelievable! At first, there were just megaliths in this place, quite in the spirit of the ancient peoples. And since 1284, this place has definitely been used as a temple. Today, only an ancient wall has been preserved here from those years, which has now become part of the complex.

Service in the form of ritual offerings and prayers is constantly held in the temple.

Find a aunt =) In my opinion, mega-cool pyramids!

The higher you climb, the more beautiful the views around open. In the distance you can see the blue strip of the sea.

Pura Beskikh is a whole complex with 23 temples on its territory. And in addition to them, there are many more related buildings.

The color of the buildings is so black because the building material was cooled volcanic lava that turned into stone. In Bali, you can often find black sand on the beaches, because there are two volcanoes on such a small island, and it cannot be said that they are calm. I already talked about the Batur volcano in detail in my article, and now it's time to talk about the Agung eruption.

In fact, there were quite a few eruptions, but the inhabitants of the island especially remembered the eruption of 1963, which claimed the lives of almost 1,700 Balinese. On that terrible day, the burning lava did not spare the villages in the vicinity, but miraculously stopped at the very walls of the Pura Besakih temple. Since then, the Balinese sincerely believe in the sacred meaning of this incident, believing that it was the spirits who wanted to show their strength to them, but without destroying the temples. To be honest, the Balinese are already very religious, and with such and such hints from above, you will begin to believe in everything =)

And according to my personal observations, Balinese spirits generally rage like children and love to play dirty tricks on trifles to have fun, but they are not evil. I can’t explain these sensations, according to many events around, I noticed a certain general pattern in the ongoing processes. Moreover, these spirits can love someone more, and dislike someone for some reason. Well, another option is that this manifestation of karma is so clearly affected. Over Mishutka, here in Bali, the spirits were downright malicious) Fall into a small pond, the size of a puddle, in a museum you have to manage it))) At the same time, it’s not dangerous, but at the same time it’s not very pleasant, the child has hysteria. And there were many such little things, just like some kind of rock)))

But in general, these guys are good spirits)))

On this our excursion to Pura Beskaih in Bali ended and we went down to the place where we started our inspection.

As soon as we were at the bottom, a thunderstorm broke out. Immediately, crowds of women with umbrellas ran up to us in order to offer an umbrella for a couple of dollars. But we hurriedly ran to the motorcycle, getting wet through, and without hesitation rushed home. It was not pleasant to ride under a downpour, although it was warm tropical, but I had to overtake him by all means. The fact is that the temple is located at an altitude of 1000 m on the slope of a volcano, and we drove there along a serpentine, which is dangerous on a dry road, let alone slippery from the rain! In general, I did not want to break my neck, so we hurried. And the amazing thing is, as soon as we drove away from the volcano, there was not even a hint of rain left. And despite the fact that it was still not close to Ubud, we did not see any more rain that day. In general, the temple complex of Pura Besakih of Bali is definitely a very mystical place.

Pura Besakih Bali Temple - Visitor Information

Working mode

Pura Besakih Temple is open daily from sunrise to sunset. There is a certain probability of getting to some local religious event, when services will be going on in the temple and not particularly taking a walk. But the Balinese are good-natured people, therefore I have not heard stories that some of the tourists were kicked out, on the contrary, they sometimes invite them to take part in the ritual.

Prices in Pura Besakih

The exact date of construction of Pura Besakih is unknown, although it is believed that it was built over 1,000 years ago. Mount Agung, on which it is located, has long been revered by the Balinese as one of the 4 sacred peaks and as the dwelling place of the god Shiva. Finally, according to ancient beliefs, it is here that the axis of the world passes, around which the entire universe revolves.

Scientists claim that some stone structures of the temple are about 2,000 years old, while others were built much later. It is possible that in ancient times the present complex was built on the site of an older sanctuary. The first mention of Pura Besakih dates back to 1284, and the manuscript speaks of it as a long-standing shrine. There are also several versions that the temple complex could have been founded by a wandering monk in the 8th century or a Kesari Raja in the early 10th century.

Since many chronicles contain information about donations to the temple from the Balinese kings and noble persons, most likely, the complex was constantly being completed from century to century. For example, it is known that the central part of Agung Panataran, dedicated to Shiva, was built in the 17th century.

In 1917, Pura Besakih suffered during the eruption of the volcano Batur, a formidable neighbor of the sacred Mount Agung (there is only a small valley between them). And in 1963, Agung itself, which is also a volcano, threw out lava flows. However, this time the Indonesian gods spared the temple - a deadly stream passed just a few meters from it. Of course, such an event further convinced the Balinese of the holiness of these places. Later, the volcano was still active in 2017 and 2018, but, fortunately, it did not come to a full-fledged eruption.

How to get there

The temple of Pura Besakih is located near the village of the same name in the eastern part of the island. The nearest city to it is Klungkung, which is located at a distance of about 20 km.

Since public transport in, and especially in Bali, is poorly developed, many tourists prefer to travel by taxi or rent a bike. In this case, it will not be difficult for you to get to the village of Besakih on a map or GPS-navigator.

Coordinates: -8.37435, 115.450804.

The address: Pura Besakih, Rendang, Bali, 80871.

But consider all the possibilities to get to the temple of Pura Besakih:

• By bus - from the Batubulan terminal (Batubulan), which is 8 km from Denpasar, regular buses run to the eastern part of the island;
• By private transport or taxi - you will need to cover about 63 km, heading east through the town of Semarapura (Semarapura) to the signs for the temple.

Another way to travel around Bali is by hitchhiking, and quite a few tourists get to Pura Besakih this way.

If you decide to visit the Indonesian shrine as part of an excursion group, you will be taken to the parking lot, which is located about 1 km from the goal. Therefore, in any case, part of the path will have to be covered on foot.

Besakih Temple on the map

Inside the temple

As already mentioned, the temple complex of Pura Besakih includes 23 sanctuaries. Of these, three are the largest and most important - these are Penataran Agung, Batu Madeg and Kiduling Kreteg, dedicated to the gods Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma, respectively. In general, the territory of the complex occupies more than 3 km, rising in steps.

The Penataran Agung Shiva Temple is in the center, with Kiduling Kreteg to the east and Batu Madeg to the west. Interestingly, today the funding for each of them is held by three different districts of Bali.

The largest and most interesting in Pura Besakih is the Shiva temple. It consists of three courtyards, which can be passed one after the other, passing several gates.

First courtyard("the world of people") - it is considered the least important, intended for preparation for religious rites and visiting the next levels of the temple. A central staircase of 52 steps leads here, decorated with stone statues of mythological creatures. During the holidays, each statue is put on a sarong - a bright Indonesian "skirt". At the end of the stairs, the Chandi Bentar gate is installed - they are an arch split in the upper part, and this form was not chosen by chance. According to Balinese beliefs, this opening in the arch is needed so that nothing interferes with the interaction of a person with higher forces.

Second courtyard("border world") - you can get to this part of Pura Besakih through the next gate, passing the first courtyard. The Balinese are convinced that it is here that deities descend to ordinary people during ceremonies and rituals. Therefore, all the inhabitants of Bali, heading to the temple, bring gifts here to lay them at the altars and whisper a prayer. In the open pavilion located here, believers can linger to meditate and communicate with higher powers, while families wait for the end of cremation during Hindu funerals.

third courtyard("world of deities") - the uppermost section of the temple, where visitors also climb the stairs. On several terraces of this courtyard, multi-tiered pagoda towers were built - each for a specific deity. By the number of tiers, you can guess who exactly the "dwelling" is intended for. So, the towers of Shiva and the goddess of fertility Devi Shri, especially beloved by the Balinese, each have 11 tiers, while the tower of Vishnu has only 9, although this also indicates high respect. The smallest turrets have only 3 tiers. By the way, chronicles and other historical documents have long been stored in one of these pagodas, but excursions are not conducted there.

During the holidays, the entire territory of the Pura Besakih temple is decorated with flowers, bright umbrellas and cuts of fabrics. Traditionally, four colors predominate in jewelry: white in honor of Shiva, red in honor of Brahma, black for the worship of Vishnu and yellow. In just a year, up to 70 major religious ceremonies take place here, and getting to one of them is a great success for a tourist. At this time, you can see the temple in all its glory, listen to the local orchestra and touch the mysterious culture of the Hindu Balinese.

One of the main such holidays - Galungan, or the day of the "victory of good over evil" - lasts for 10 days and is accompanied by many interesting events. This is the best time to visit a tropical island, because not only the temples, but the whole of Bali is changing these days (like before Christmas).

Tours

To visit the temple complex of Pura Besakih, you can consider the following options:

• Book an excursion at one of the tourist offices;
• Use the services of a local driver-guide with a car;
• Get to the temple on your own and go to explore it.

It is worth saying right away that an independent visit is allowed, although it is quite possible that they will try to convince you otherwise. Local “guides” who meet tourists at the central staircase or at the entrance will especially try, but we will tell you how to get rid of their intrusive service below.

Rules for visiting Pura Besakih:

• All visitors must wear a sarong;
• Passage inside the pagoda-sanctuaries for tourists is prohibited;
• Photos on the territory of the temple complex can be taken without restrictions.

You can bring your own sarongs, buy on site or rent. Keep in mind that there will be many sellers, and you should not agree to the first price offered - be sure to bargain. Experienced tourists also recommend not to believe assurances in the spirit of “you won’t find it cheaper” and “they won’t sell further”.

The price of entry to the territory of the temple is 60,000 Indonesian rupiah (about 250 rubles).

The ticket office is open from 08:00 to 17:00 (but the complex itself is open around the clock).

Be sure to demand a ticket, even if you are offered to go without it. Tickets are not always checked inside, but it is better to avoid unpleasant surprises. Moreover, it may be that not all “checkers” will turn out to be temple workers - there are plenty of people who want to deceive an inexperienced tourist and extract some more money from him.

The easiest way to move around the temple complex is accompanied by a local resident. In this case, it is less likely that sellers of various goods and services will pester you every now and then. However, those who know how to say a firm “no” do just fine without local escorts.

You can also go to Pura Besakih as part of an excursion group - this will save you from many worries (for example, you will not need to think about how to get here and go back). Also in this case, it is much easier to navigate the vast territory of the temple complex. But, of course, the cost of the tour will be higher than the cost of an independent visit.

• If you decide to get to the Pura Besakih temple on your own by bike or by car, be sure to bring a navigator with you. There are road signs in Bali, but you should not count on their regularity. Talking to the locals without knowing the language will be problematic - in the villages, many do not even understand English, not to mention Russian. You can count on a conversation only with those Balinese whose activities are somehow connected with tourists.
• You should not agree to the services of local "guides" who offer their accompaniment at the entrance to the temple. Firstly, they lie, saying that you cannot go beyond the first courtyard without an escort. And secondly, such “guides” will not conduct a full-fledged excursion, and this has already been verified by many tourists more than once.
• There is a little trick to avoid obsessive harassment and assurances that you cannot pass without a guide: enter Pura Besakih not from the main entrance, but from the side of one of the side stairs. Almost all sellers of services, sarongs and various trifles “hunt” for tourists at the central staircase of the Shiva Penataran Agung temple. But there are a couple more entrances to the right and left of it - that's where you need to go.

• Take a sarong with you - a regular rectangle of fabric that can be wrapped around your waist like a skirt. In this case, you will not have to overpay for this mandatory piece of clothing. By the way, sarongs will also be needed to visit other sacred places in Bali, if they are in your excursion program.
• Try to get to the temple complex in the morning, because closer to dinner it is crowded due to the abundance of tourists. And in the afternoon, Pura Besakih, located at an altitude of 1,000 meters above sea level, can be covered with fog. It also does not hurt to take raincoats or umbrellas with you - here it often rains not just, but real tropical showers.
• If you are not a burden to get up early, you can come to the temple at dawn and go inside for free (there will simply be no one to stop you). Some tourists do just that, it is only important not to go out through the central gate so as not to catch the eye of the ticket office worker.

Despite all the nuances and surprises that a tourist can expect in Pura Besakih, this place is one of those attractions in Bali that are definitely worth seeing. The mountain temple complex impresses with its grandeur, rising higher and higher from terrace to terrace. And from the upper platform of the temple, such views of the island open up that it is simply impossible to leave without a dozen photos! If you manage to get to Pura Besakih during one of the Balinese holidays, you can touch the real life of Bali, its living “non-tourist” culture and look at what is happening through the eyes of the islanders.