The biggest bitch. Weekend trip: Katavka-Big Bitch-Rapids. Pass: Shoulder Big Bitch.2011
The name is quite euphonious for the Russian ear, if the emphasis is placed correctly. It is placed on the last syllable. The word “suky” in Bashkir means “peak”, “ridge”. It is possible that the origin is also connected with the word “syuyk” or “suuk” - “cold, “icy”. It’s really always not hot at the top, but in the cold season it can be even extreme. However, there is another version of the name, from the Turkic word “su” - water, where the second syllable indicates its negation. This option also reveals the peculiarities of this corner, where during the day with fire you may not find not only a stream, but also an overflowing spring.
This ridge is clearly visible from the M5 highway in the area where this highway approaches the city of Bakal and the suburban village of Katavka. The most convenient place for the assault begins from Katavka. There is a well-paved path leading to the mountains from the village through the spruce taiga. Soon it rises quite steeply and takes tourists to the saddle of the Bolshaya Suka ridge, to one of its most picturesque corners, where rock outcrops are located. Among them, one is called the Bear Stone. The view from above is simply mesmerizing. The city of Bakal with its mining operations and the Shuyda ridge are visible; the cities of Yuryuzan and Trekhgorny are visible to the side.
If you cross the saddle and continue to walk along the same road, then after descending from the ridge it will lead to the famous “Boiling Spring” at the sources of the Malaya Satka River, and then to the no less famous fountain at the sources of the Bolshaya Kalagaza River. There is a place for picnics and overnight stays, where the climb to the neighboring mountain Uvan begins. This mountain is sometimes called Malaya Suka.
The Bolshaya Suka ridge stretches from southwest to northeast for 27 kilometers. Its highest sections are located just at the edges; they exceed 1100 meters. The highest point is 1195 meters. Externally, the relief resembles an uneven sheer wall made of gray-green bricks. This is because the slopes are covered with stone rivers - kurumniks. Their boulders are densely overgrown with green lichens, almost hiding the color of the rock. Stones, as a rule, are slippery and dance underfoot, so it is more comfortable to climb where there are thickets of moss between the stones, and also relatively rare trees. Lonely spruce and birch trees grow among the stone scatterings. Larch is also often found.
In winter, the climb is difficult due to deep, abundant snow, which also hides the gaps between the stones. But in early winter, on rocky outcrops you can admire numerous bizarre icicles. They were formed from the fact that rocks continue to give off the heat accumulated over the summer. The Bolshaya Suka ridge is one of the favorite places of the rector of Chelyabinsk State Pedagogical University Vladimir Sydyrin, who grew up in these parts.
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Approximately halfway between Yuryuzan and Satka, skirting the Bolshaya Suka ridge, the trans-Ural highway M5 creeps for many kilometers towards the pass. And at its highest point, the stone rivers of kurum, which flow from the ridge through the thinning forest, almost reach the asphalt of the road. Driving past this place many times, I “licked my lips” looking at the nearby peaks. I thought that I should stop someday and run upstairs, since they are so close. I thought and drove on, because there was always something else in my plans. And this would probably have continued forever if I had not one day specifically come to Suka for the purpose of climbing.
Katavka - Big Bitch
The starting point of my journey was the ancient village of Katavka, founded near the ancient Kazan trail, seemingly back in the days of the almighty Myasnikov and Tverdyshev and lying near the ridge.
An old forest road leads from the village to the pass. At one time it was used for communication with Sibirka, which lies beyond two passes, and also for the removal of timber. And it is quite possible that it was part of that very legendary ancient Kazana (Kazan Trail), along which communication was carried out through Bolshoy Kamen to time immemorial. The pass here is too convenient: low, smooth. And opposite it, on Nurgush, there is an equally good one, leading further to the east.
It's very close to the pass. “Reached” quickly - in about an hour. The ascent ended, and the road led to an old clearing - a woodland with clearings, low birches and fir trees. A little ahead on the right, a remnant peeked out from behind the low trees, marking the pass point. The murky peaks, guardians of the pass, parted a little and opened a passage through the ridge. Here lies the border of the forest and lifeless stone. Junipers and dwarf fir trees climb upward along the rocky slopes. They are interspersed with green spots among the redness of the mountain tundra. Crooked, squat, smoothed by the constantly blowing winds. And gray stone rivers—kurums—rush from the peaks to meet them and get lost in the sea of taiga.
The road, having caught its breath a little, pulled the trail further, towards the emerging slope to the east, descending into the Yamki tract - a basin between Suka and Uvan. Here the distant Zyuratkul ridge with a characteristic white mark on one of the hills was clearly visible.
He stood for a while, peering into the distance, then stepped to the side and, making his way through the thickets of undergrowth, past a pass outcropping, came out to the edge of the ridge drop. From here the entire eastern panorama of the mountains opened up - the vastness of nearby Uvan and Nurgush. However, I wasn't going there today. My goal was the dominant kurum height to the right of the pass, where I planned to find a convenient place to spend the night.
I left the road with regret. Now we had to make our way up through windbreaks and kurums, past rocky outcrops, every now and then slipping off moss-overgrown stones. If there were any paths here, they all had claw marks. And as is customary according to the strange law of animal stitches, they disappeared as unexpectedly as they appeared. But they helped me walk for a while.
Meanwhile, the views were stunning. In the golden evening light, with every meter of height gained, the mountains grew closer. Uvan’s hump is already very close. The sources of Malaya Satka were hidden below it. From the height it was clearly visible how my road, drawn by an arrow along the clearing, went to Moskal and the Olympic Cordon, invisible from here - the center of all the local paths. It must be said that Bolshaya Suka, being the northern continuation of the powerful Zigalga ridge, is located in the very center of the Southern Urals. Its name comes from the Bashkir “suuk”, that is, “cold”, and not what many thought. Although, as authoritative Ural toponymist Alexander Matveev writes, local population puts the emphasis on the first syllable, citing the fact that it is very difficult to move along the ridge. Here I completely agreed with them.
Climbing from outcropping to outcropping, I crawl out onto the next stone platform. Here he is, in full view, Big Nurgush - highest point Chelyabinsk region. Adjacent to the stone peak on the left is a huge plateau with an area of tens of square kilometers. This place is not as often visited by tourists as Big Iremel, and on the tundra plateau many rare plants, including the golden root. Through the saddle between the Nurgush stepson Lukash and the Big Nurgush himself runs the old Thieves' Trail, along which horse thieves took horses from the Satka factory to the Bashkir Trans-Urals. It was believed that if you walked along this path, you yourself would one day become a thief. This is just one of the many legends and tales that the Satka district is very rich in. However, like the entire mining Urals.
On one of the climbs, I left my backpack and lightly rushed up to catch the sunset light in order to catch something else after the setting sun. And here it is, the sun, imperceptibly, imperceptibly, but seemingly quite noticeably, and quickly rolled up to the edge of a distant ridge. And I sat down on the edge of the rock, suddenly realizing that my legs were not going to the top, although there was very little left to it. But I can't bring myself to do it. I need to go back for my backpack and then crawl back up. But that's not the point at all. I sat in silence on the cliff. Somewhere far below the highway rumbled. And I seemed to feel good and calm. But the sunset light began to play its usual trick on me. Anyone who has been alone in the evening, far from human habitation, will understand me. In the evening twilight, during sunset, a wave of anxiety and loneliness rolls in, which you just need to wait out. Survive this hour and a half, because when the sun sets and night falls, the wave will subside. But at this very time you are ready to give up everything and run without looking back to people. Because because the feeling that covers you is ancient, at this time the instincts turn on, saying very clearly: “Now night will come, and if you are left alone, you are unlikely to live until the morning.” And nothing can knock it out or erase it.
I returned to my backpack. I sat and thought for a while, but Once again Realizing that his legs weren’t going up and there was nothing he could do about it, and having come up with several well-reasoned reasons, in the approaching darkness he began to move down.
Moving down is always some kind of sadness. The sadness of parting with the mountain. Already leaving the pass, I turned around and saw how the first very bright Star. So big, warm, furry. A silent peak, a silent star and its bright magical light flying through God knows what space and time! “Heavenly nail” flashed through my head. That's what the Arabs called Sirius. And a feeling of pity also appeared at the same time. I regret that I couldn’t find the strength to stay and left, leaving behind a fairy tale and the view of silent ridges.
On the way back, I didn’t turn on the flashlight for a long time and, as a result, I went the wrong way: into abandoned meadows, swamps, and came out to the outskirts of Katavka from a completely different direction, when night had already fallen.
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Pass: Shoulder Big Bitch.2011
We have a very friendly and athletic family!!! We love nature very much native land and whenever possible we try to get out of the house and into the mountains every weekend))))!!! Quite an easy pass for children and interesting name. And what came of it - look further!!!
There are three versions of the origin of the oronym SukA. The interpretation is derived from the Tatar “suka” - “plow”, the Bashkir “suki” - “hill” and the Bashkir “suuk” - “cold”. The third version looks most likely. An interesting observation is made by the famous toponymist of the Urals, A.K. Matveev: “...Russian residents from the village of Tyulyuk call the Suka ridge, citing the fact that there are very inconvenient places for walking...” It must be said that this is indeed the case. Most of the ridge consists of narrow rocky ridges that you have to climb every now and then.
View of Bolshaya SukU from the village of Katavka. Where did our journey to the pass begin?
From the point of view of the excursion, the road leading from the village of Katavka to the village of Sibirka, through the Plecho pass, is interesting. Big Bitch. Few places else Southern Urals there is such a simple road to a height of a thousand meters. This is for us since 6 summer child and it is necessary!!!
Let's start with the fact that the climb to the pass itself is picturesque.
I climbed the Big Bitch ridge once. And our path to the ridge, as I understand it now, was very unconventional.
Firstly, guide Ivan Susanin led us. That’s what it said on his T-shirt, and he said in all seriousness that his name was Vanya, his last name was Susanin, and being a guide in the Ural taiga was his calling. I hope you understand what feelings took hold of me when I, in company with our German financial director, my beloved nephew and a 17-year-old German boy who came to practice in Russia and for whose safety his father personally entrusted me with responsibility, approached to the shore of the stormy Zyuratkul for some reason and saw a rusty trough, which Ivan Susanin called a motor boat. However, there was a motor.
Secondly, we had to melt to the other side of Zyuratkul in a rusty trough (well, yes, it was a boat with a motor, according to Ivan Susanin) in two shifts of 4 people across a very turbulent lake that day. In general, at that moment the waves seemed like the sea.
By the way, the hike turned out to be surprisingly simple. First we walked along a beautiful forest path, along which frogs raced with us. Then the path went uphill, but we walked along it at a brisk pace, without particularly bothering ourselves. And only the last 100 meters we climbed a little over the stones in the dense forest. I kept looking around and looking for traces of Baba Yaga, she definitely must have lived in this windfall.
And then an incredible space opened up.
Big Bitch Valeria Kuznetsova
“The only thing better than mountains are mountains that you have never been to before.
Old, worn out? But it's true!
The mountains take away your soul, heart, liver... You can no longer live without another dose of mountains. Mountains... They are somewhere “...reigning in the distance and incredibly beautiful...”.
But if you really want to, you can find mountains very close to home (Ufa). Real thousands of people, with mountain taiga and gray tongues of kurums cutting into the taiga. With the ruins of rock outcrops, the smell of rhododendron and crazy views of all five corners of the world. You will say that the world has four ends. I will say that there is a fifth one, just in case everything interesting doesn’t fit into four.
Such mountains, of course, are the Bolshaya Suka ridge. Rocky, pointed, bristling with peaks. And although the emphasis in the word “Bitch” is on the last syllable, sometimes, when you move along the ridge traverse, no, no, and something else will burst out either from your chest or from under your feet. Russian word. And the echo, out of habit, will boomingly answer: mother, mother, mother...
Good on Bitch and close. Just 200 km from October Avenue in the city of Ufa. This circumstance allows you to drive to the “real mountains” in just a day and return back. Which is what we do regularly.
We go to Suka only twice a year, in spring and autumn. Usually in the fall, at the end of September, you always run into snow. Therefore, this year we decided to go there early and everyone is happy - we caught good weather, wonderful views. And the next lucky ones received their much-needed dose of mountains.
For those who will have withdrawal symptoms in the near future and have an urgent need for the mountains, I will inform you that while the weather is quite normal, the following one-day excursions await us:
September 15, South Ural Nature Reserve, Nary Ridge
September 16, Mount Bakhmur and the stone river closest to Ufa
September 22, South Ural Nature Reserve, Mount Bolshoi Shelom
September 23, Mount Kurtash and Blue Rocks
September 29, South Ural Nature Reserve, Mount Dunan Suigan
September 30, Raspberry Mountain
A little about the Big Bitch ridge
The Bolshaya Suka ridge is located in the Chelyabinsk region, near the city of Bakal, stretches from SW to NE from the right bank of the Yuryuzan River, its length is about 20 km, most peaks are more than 1000 m. The highest points from north to south: 1102 m, 1139.6 m, 1080 m, 1194 m (highest point of Bolshaya Suki), 1130 m, 1105 m, 1168 m, Peski (1054 m), Mal. Uval (1006.7 m).
Valery Kuznetsov:
“There are four versions of the origin of the oronym SukA.
The interpretation is derived from the Tatar “bitch” - “plow”, the Bashkir “bitch” - “hill”, “pointed peak” and the Bashkir “suuk” - “cold”. According to another version, from the word “sukan” - “bow”. That is, SukA is an onion ridge. Indeed, a lot of wild garlic and “bear onions” grow on Suka. And on old maps the ridge is designated exactly as Sukan.
An interesting observation is made by the famous toponymist of the Urals, A.K. Matveev: “... Russian residents from the village of Tyulyuk call the Suka ridge, citing the fact that there are very inconvenient places for walking...” It must be said that this is indeed true. Most of the ridge consists of narrow rocky ridges, along which you have to climb every now and then.”
Throughout the Bolshaya Suka ridge there are many rocks, outcrops, and ledges. In the southern part of the ridge there is a large tundra mountain plateau. The plateau is almost flat, offering beautiful panoramic views of the nearby mountains.
How to get there?
To get to the Siberian pass of the Bolshaya Suki ridge, you need to get to the village of Katavka. The village of Katavka was founded in 1843 by settlers from the Katav mine and the Katav-Ivanovsky plant and was first called Novo-Katavskaya. The village arose along with other workers’ settlements near the Bakal mines being developed for their maintenance. Currently, about 250 people live in the village.
From the village of Katavka you need to go east along dirt road, gradually gaining altitude. The road is damp and seems to lie in a narrow, shady spruce-fir corridor. The trail is often crossed by clear and cold streams with spring water. When the taiga ends, you will see open space with kurums, separate bizarre quartzite outcrops and a clearing on one of the peaks of the Bolshaya Suka ridge, which is called Lysaya. This is the Siberian Pass, located at an altitude of about 1000 m above sea level. At the pass you can turn southwest along a barely noticeable path, following the kurums on the right, going around the rocky outcrop - the Devil's Finger. In some places there are markings on the trees. Behind the rocky outcrop, gradually gaining height, you can climb towards the peak of B. Suk (1194m). After climbing to the top, you can return to the road to Sibirka.
The village of Sibirka was founded in 1779. Included in the Satkinskoye urban settlement. The name is associated with the Old Siberian Highway that passed nearby. According to the 2010 census, 128 people lived in the village. The village is located on the left bank of the river. Malaya Satka is 32 km from the regional center, surrounded by the Moskal, Bolshaya Suka, and Uvan mountain ranges. Previously, the main occupation of the residents was logging and charcoal burning for the Satka iron smelting plant. After 1941, the plant’s blast furnaces were switched to a different type of fuel, and coal burning was stopped. In 1967, a power line was laid from the town of Bakal to the village, and an eight-year school was built, which operated until 1980.
Currently there is a Visitor Center in the village national park"Zyuratkul". In the vicinity of the village there are 2 tourist routes: the village. Zyuratkul - Sibirka (20 km), Sibirka - Bolshaya Uvan (12 km, radial ascent). The attractions “Boiling Spring” and “Fountain” are 7 km away.
Valery Kuznetsov:
“It is worth noting that if you are interested in local history and ethnography, communication with the old residents of the village of Katavki will be very informative. Philologists classify the Katavian dialect as a separate dialect.
And the self-name of the Katavs is shmaty. When I happen to be in Katavka, I try with great pleasure to communicate with local grandparents. You won’t hear such an interesting and original speech anywhere else!”
How to get to the southern part of the Bolshaya Suka ridge?
It is convenient to reach the southern end of the ridge along the road from the city of Yuryuzan to the village of Tyuluk, reaching the clearing where the village of Petropavlovka used to be located, and from there along the old logging road and along the path up. But by the way, look for a guide.
Photo by Valery Kuznetsov and Igor Akhromenko from the group “Mountain Shurale”.
