Cutting and processing glass First of all, you need to go through the preliminary preparation stage, make sketches and templates. Why do you need the appropriate tools for drawing, coloring and cutting: pencils, an eraser, a square ruler, standard scissors with

An adult boar usually has 44 teeth (12 incisors, 4 canines, 16 anterior and 12 posterior). The incisors, canines, second, third, and fourth anterior molars are diphyodont, i.e., they have two generations. All posterior teeth have no milk predecessors. Anteriolar P11 do not change and remain milky all their lives, and often do not appear in the lower jaw at all.

A brief description of age-related changes in individual groups of teeth can be summarized as follows.

incisors. They are located in the extreme anterior part of the skull. On the lower jaw they are directed straight forward, and on the upper jaw they grow perpendicularly down. Newborns have third incisors on both jaws. At the age of 12-15 days, the first pair of teeth erupt through the gum first in the lower and then in the upper jaw, but they grow relatively slowly: at 2 months of age they reach 0.5 cm in length. 3-month-old individuals already have all the milk incisors. The replacement of milk teeth with definitive ones occurs in the same sequence as the appearance of milk teeth: I3 erupt and are replaced at 9-10 months, I1 - at 15-16, and I2 - at the end of the 2nd - beginning of the 3rd year of life. Homologous teeth in the upper jaw usually erupt only when the lower teeth reach about 2/3 of their definitive length.

fangs. Newborns have both pairs of milk fangs, outwardly very similar to the third incisors. Milk fangs grow slowly and persist only until 10-11 months of age. The most characteristic feature of the definitive fangs of males is their constant and rather rapid growth almost throughout their life, while in females the fangs grow only up to 4-5 years and very slowly. The lower fangs in adult males are directed upwards and to the sides, slightly bending back. The upper ones, starting from the 2nd year of life, grow down and to the sides, and by the end of the 3rd year, their tops begin to bend upwards and the more, the older the boar. Both pairs of canines gradually increase with age both in length and in diameter, reaching their maximum size in old males. Our observations and study of the fangs of males show that they can be used to some extent to determine the age. Figure 2 shows how the shape, size and wear of canines in males change depending on age. However, fangs by themselves cannot serve as a sure sign for determining the age of animals, since within each age group a wide range of variability in their size is found. Note that the length of the canine was measured along a large bend from the border of the alveolus to the top of the tooth, and the width - in the widest place at the level of the bone alveolus. The lower fangs in males are trihedral, the upper ones are rounded; in females, the lower ones are trihedral-rounded, and the upper ones are flat. In males, the length of the lower canine along the outer large bend from the root to the top reaches 230, and the upper canine - 140 mm; in females - 100 and 55 mm, respectively.

Anterior root. In a wild boar, all anterior and posterior molars (both deciduous and definitive) are placed close to each other, forming a compact row. Only in the lower jaw, the first pair is located apart between the canines and the second premolars.

On the 5-8th day after birth, the fourth pair of teeth protrudes noticeably from the alveoli on the lower jaw, and the third pair of teeth on the upper jaw: P4 erupt and develop after P3. By the age of 1.5 months, piglets have the first and third pairs of incisors, canines, as well as the third and fourth anterior teeth; the tops of the second incisors and the second anterior roots are cut through the bone alveolus. In the future, the growth and development of milk teeth proceed quickly and in a short time, which can be explained by the gradual transition of piglets from feeding on mother's milk to self-procurement of food. Young animals of 3-4 months of age already have well-developed anterior molars, with the exception of the first pair, which usually forms after the rest.

The replacement of milk anterior molars with definitive teeth begins at 15-16 months, with the fourth pair on the lower jaw erupting first; it grows rapidly, reaching full development by 18-20 months, while the third pair by this time grows only to 2/3 of its size, and the second is just erupting. In general, all definitive anterior teeth of the lower jaw are finally formed by the age of 22-24 months. However, if the milk teeth are largely adapted to crushing and grinding food, then all permanent premolars are mostly only crushing or cutting. This is due to the fact that the function of crushing food in 2-3-year-old wild boars is carried by developing posterior teeth.

posterior root. The first pair of posterior teeth erupt at the age of 4 months, and by 6 months it is already fully developed, but traces of wear on the tops of the tubercles appear only by 10 months. The development of the second is generally completed by 18-20 months, and the third - by the end of the 3rd year of the boar's life. The molars grow strictly alternately: the postalveolar differentiation of each tooth occurs only when the previous one is finally formed. The degree of wear of the cusps and surfaces of the crowns of the teeth also increases consistently. This sequence is one of the best diagnostic features for establishing a scale of age-related changes in teeth.

Qualitatively, at a reasonable price.
Of all the game that is usually hunted, the prestigious cohort has long included boar also called wild pig. In ancient times, he had a different name - boar. This is a solid, far from stupid and savvy beast. He never retreats and is ready to defend his life to the end, which often threatens the hunter with serious injuries. The brilliant writer Cherkasov A.A., who described hunting with amazing talent, in the book “Notes of a Hunter of Eastern Siberia” describes the behavior of a wild boar during a hunt: “... look at billhook when the dogs catch up with him, they stop him, the hunters fly up and surround him from all sides, and he, seeing the trouble, will begin to defend himself. All the hair on it will stand on end, its eyes burn with courage and throw terrible sparks, white foam pours out of its mouth in clubs, and the billhook either stands motionless, waiting for an attack, puffs and sharpens its huge white fangs with fury, then rushes at enemies with a bold, impetuous , with an elastic swoop knocks down brave fighters, crosses in two, like a mitten, throws up a snout, flogs with fangs like a knife, makes terrible mortal wounds, releases intestines ... One turn of his snout is enough to kill a careless hunter who decides to come too close to him and somehow blunders ... ".
The danger of hunting a boar is also reflected in the well of folk wisdom - in sayings, for example, one of them says: "If you go for a bear - take a straw, for wild boar you go - drag the coffin."
But, nevertheless, knowing how dangerous this beast can be, you should not fall into a stupor from fear of such a game. If you meet such a serious opponent, you need to be very careful and not lose your temper. And of course, you don’t need to fussily move around, twitch, and you shouldn’t let fear guide your actions.

All appearance wild pig indicates that this animal is adapted for living in dense weaves of forest thickets and reed beds. The head is large, has the shape of a wedge (in proportion, it is almost one third of the entire length), a powerful neck and a large torso, as if squeezed on the sides, enable the beast, when threatened, to leave through the forest wilds and rubble, breaking through any thickets with amazing speed .
Boar legs are hardy, overgrown with coarse hair, short limbs. The tail is not too long, approximately to the heel joint, at its end there is a tassel. When a wild boar flees from danger, its speed can be about 40 km / h, while it will jump about four meters in length and one and a half meters in height. And the wild boar is capable of maintaining such a pace without stopping for a “smoke break” at distances of 10 or even 15 km. This beast can quickly and without difficulty swim across water barriers, even if the river has a high flow rate, crosses swamps, and is able to overcome steep slopes.

A wild pig is a natural all-terrain vehicle, only impassable snow reduces its ability to maneuver. Only at first inattentive glance, a wild boar can be called a heavy and clumsy animal. In fact, this is a swift and frisky animal. The boar can at any time make a lightning throw to the side or at the enemy. The size of an adult pig is quite significant. The height at the withers can be about 120 cm, and at the same time, the length of the beast is often more than two meters. Such an animal weighs about three centners, or even more. With all this, it is also a well-armed enemy - the boar has well-developed fangs. They are clearly visible when looking at a wild boar - they do not fit in the oral cavity, and turn white menacingly on the outside. On the upper jaw, the fangs are blunt and not too long, and at the exit from the gums they are bent up. On the lower jaw, they are more serious in a wild boar - these are sharp trihedral fangs, and they grow all their lives, and when the boar is already seven years old, their size is already ten centimeters. I must say that the lower fangs of a wild boar are always sharply sharpened, they never become dull, the fact is that the upper fangs are close to them and act as a grindstone. The lower fangs are a lifesaver for a wild boar - this is a digging stick, an “axe”, and a “knife”, and much more. It was the impressive lower fangs of the wild boar that gave another name to adult males - they are often called billhooks.

Female feral pigs also have fangs, although they certainly cannot boast of the same size, they do not even protrude. Actually, this makes female boars less dangerous than adult billhooks.
Boars have a well-developed coat. In winter, each bristle splits at the end, and itself becomes very strong and lengthens. These bristles on the animal's back tangle and create an original mane. In addition, a dense undercoat grows in cold times. Boar hair, its part, consisting of bristles, most often dark brown in color, brightened at the ends, can be with a grayish tint, or even completely white. The undercoat is also brown in color with an admixture of chestnut color. Boar skins do not differ in coloration, they can be brown or brown, almost always in darker shades, the limbs are always darker than the body, they can be completely black. In the summer, the bristles are thinned and shortened. The color also changes, it becomes lighter and moves to the “gray area”, in the color of the skin gray, and even ashen colors begin to predominate.
By nature, wild boars are prudent and cautious animals, so they usually try to leave when a person approaches. However, when a boar is wounded, or greatly angered by a long persecution, it can turn all its forces against its pursuer, spitting on a sense of self-preservation. Boars have a remarkably pronounced sense of hearing and smell. But vision is much weaker. But this does not mean that the vision of a wild boar can not be taken into account when hunting for it. Already from a distance of a hundred or one and a half meters, he can detect even small movements of the hunter and immediately leaves in the other direction.

It is very important to properly skin a dead animal. The appearance of the trophy and its assessment depend on this. When removing the skin, the killed animal is laid on its back and, pulling the skin on the belly (near the anus), cut it with a sharp knife. The incision is made along the midline of the abdomen from the anus to the angle of the lower jaw (up to the chin), as well as along the underside of the tail to its end. The knife is inserted under the skin with the point up, in this position there is less risk of cutting through the muscular wall of the abdomen. On the front legs, skin incisions are made from the soles along the inner sides to the chest, and on the hind legs - from the soles along the inner sides to the anus, bypassing it in front as close as possible (Fig. 66).

Rice. 66. Cuts for skinning

Then the skin is separated from the hind legs to the very claws. After that, the terminal phalanges of the fingers are cut so that only the claws remain with the skin (Fig. 67). For the convenience of shooting the skins of small animals (cats, lynx, wolf, etc.), they are hung by their hind legs. Skins are skinned from the forelimbs in the same way as from the hind limbs.

Rice. 67. Processing the paws of predators

It is necessary to remove the skin from the head very carefully so as not to cut through the skin near the ears and eyes. Having reached the ears and exposing their bases, they cut the ear cartilages at the very skull and leave them with the skin. In the eye area, the skin is incised as close as possible to the bones of the skull and the eyeball, so as not to damage the eyelids. When the skin is removed, the animal's mouth is opened and cuts are made along the edge of the mouth from the inside near the teeth, leaving the lips with the skin (Fig. 68). After the skin is separated from the carcass, the ear cartilages are removed so that the ear does not lose its shape when it dries. Separating the skin of the ear from the cartilage is a difficult operation. The cartilage fuses especially tightly with the skin on the inside of the ear. Great care is needed here so as not to cut or tear the skin.

Rice. 68. Incisions along the edge of the mouth

To protect against spoilage, the removed skin is cleaned of meat and fat and covered with a thick layer of salt. For the skin of a lynx, a wolf, 2–2.5 kg are spent, for the skin of a bear - 5–6 kg. Having rubbed it well with salt, the skin is left unfolded for several hours, and then rolled up with the flesh inside, with the hair out, tied with a rope and stored for 2-3 days. Then the salt is shaken off and the skin is hung out in the shade to dry for 2-3 hours.

For long-term storage after drying, the skin is once again cleaned of the remnants of meat and fat, salted a second time and dried. If diaper rash appears on the skin, they are wiped with acetic acid.

Only dressed skins are presented at hunting trophy exhibitions. There are many ways of dressing, but we will not recommend them here, since dressing skins at home requires not only knowledge, but also great practical skill.

If the skin of a bear, wolf, lynx or other predatory animal has a high score, the local society of hunters and fishermen can provide practical assistance in organizing its dressing at the appropriate factories. In exceptional cases, the board of Rosokhotrybolovsoyuz can help.

If, after dressing and complete drying, there are bumps on the skin or it is dry, then all the bumps are cleaned with sandpaper, and then the skin is placed for a short time in wet sawdust. Having spread it on the boards with the fur down, pulling slightly in width and length, straighten the paws, head and nail along the edges with carnations; then they are dried and the edges, perforated with carnations, are carefully cut off (carefully at an angle, without touching the fur). The fur is combed with a brush. Bear skins can be stretched out to dry on a frame of poles or thick battens.

The finished skin is hemmed with cloth (preferably green) completely silt only along the edges of the contour. The edges of the cloth are trimmed with cloves or other pattern. Then, in accordance with the contour, a linen or other lining is cut out and hemmed to the cloth on the reverse side of the skin. Between the skin and the lining it is good to lay batting according to the shape of the skin. Metal rings are sewn to the head, tail, paws at a distance of 30-50 cm from each other for attaching the carpet to the wall. You can make a carpet with a head and an open mouth out of the skin. However, this work requires a lot of knowledge and experience. If desired, the manufacture of such a carpet can be ordered in a taxidermy workshop.

The next main task of the owner of the trophy is to preserve it so that neither moths nor skin beetles damage the skin. To do this, you need to follow the skin, periodically shake it off, dry it in the sun.

The quality of trophies, their preservation, and a good display appearance to a large extent depend on their processing and design. Great importance at national and international exhibitions and competitions is given to the design of the trophy. Before starting the direct processing of a hunting trophy, the hunter must take care of it at the hunting place, since trophies are often damaged during their transportation. If the animal carcass cannot be delivered with the trophy without damaging it, then it is best to separate the trophy from the carcass. Usually the skull is separated from the neck after the skin has been removed. In this case, special attention is paid to the preservation of the integrity of the occipital parts of the skull. The head of an elk, deer, roe deer is cut along a line coinciding with the angle of the jawbone. To do this, the head is pulled back and the muscles of the neck around the head are cut at the level of the movable joint of the skull and the first cervical vertebra, then the articular membrane is cut with the end of the knife and the head is separated from the cervical vertebra with a strong jerk. When transporting a wild boar, the head can not be separated from the carcass, but so that the fangs are not damaged, the jaws are tightly tied by laying a tuft of hay between them, and the fangs are wrapped with paper.

Proper processing and design allow you to identify the main advantages of trophies and draw the viewer's attention to them. Processing and design are not very difficult and accessible to everyone, but they require great accuracy and thoroughness. Processing and decoration of trophies consist of the following operations: cleaning the skull, boiling, filing, degreasing and bleaching, choosing a stand and mounting.

For processing hunting trophies, it is necessary to have two sharp knives - one with a long blade, the other with a short one; tweezers, scalpel and scraper to remove the brain. The scraper is made of steel in the form of a spoon measuring 2x2.5 cm and 15–20 cm long; a wooden handle is put on the end of the scraper. The edges of the scraper must be sharply sharpened.

First, the skull should be cleaned of meat, which is most conveniently done at the place of cutting the carcass. To do this, cut off the largest muscles with a sharp knife, remove the eyes and tongue. After abundant salting, the skull can be safely transported for several days even in hot weather. To scare away blowflies, it is a good idea to sprinkle the skull with mothballs. When transporting, it is desirable to lay the horns together with the head on hay or straw.

The brain is removed with a scraper, stirring the brain to a soft state, through the occipital foramen, without expanding it. You can also use a wooden spatula or a wire hook instead of a scraper, a stick with cotton wool wound on the end. Then the skull is washed under a strong stream of water.

There are several methods for the final cleaning of the skull, but the simplest and fastest is boiling the skull in water. The only drawback is that the bones cleaned in this way, if you do not strictly follow the rules, are sometimes not snow-white, but retain a yellowish tint. So that the skull does not darken during cooking and later bleaches more easily, it is first placed in running water for 10–20 hours. If the water is not running, it is changed several times. For better exsanguination of the skull, add 1% sodium chloride solution to the water.

The skull is boiled in a large saucepan or cauldron so that the water constantly covers it completely, but does not reach the horns. To do this, the trophy is tied to two wooden bars and with the help of this device, the immersion depth is regulated. It is advisable to wrap the lower third of the horns (sockets and lower processes) with a rag so that grease and water do not get on the horns.

The skull is never placed in hot water, but heated along with the water. After boiling, the greasy foam is constantly removed, adding evaporated water, since the bone protruding from the water turns brown and then does not bleach. It is very good after half an hour of cooking to change the water and start boiling in clean water. When cooking, it is not recommended to add any chemicals (soda, ammonia, washing powder, alkali, etc.).

The duration of skull boiling is 1.5–3.5 hours, depending on the size, type and age of the animal. Particular care should be taken when processing the skulls of small ungulates, the bones of which do not fuse. When boiling such skulls, every few minutes they check how the meat is separated from the bones. With its easy separation, boiling is stopped so as not to destroy the bonds connecting some bones. When the muscles and tendons are cooked to a sufficient softness, the skull is immersed in clean water to cool and cleaning begins. The meat softened by boiling is separated with tweezers, and the ligaments fused with the skull are scraped off with a scalpel or knife. Then the cranium is cleaned from the remnants of the brain, films.

Before boiling out the skulls of bovid animals (mountain sheep, goats, antelopes, etc.), it is necessary to remove the horns. To do this, they are immersed in water for one or two days so that it covers the entire horn to the ground. The skull can remain above the water. Water soaks (macerates) the connective tissue formations that connect the horns with the bone base of the frontal bones, and they are easily removed from the bone bases. The removed horns must be washed well and dried in the shade, and the skulls must be boiled and cleaned in the usual way. After filing, degreasing and bleaching the skulls, the horns are put on the bone rods.

After a thorough cleaning of the skull from meat, ligaments and brain, it is important to skillfully file.

In deer, goats, rams, it is best to keep the skulls whole. Such a trophy is more valuable, since the age of the animal can always be determined by the wear of the teeth. The lower jaw is recommended to be attached to the trophy with a string or thin wire.

Sometimes only a small shapeless piece of the frontal bones is left with the horns, and the horns, as it were, lose their logical connection with the skull. Such horns look on their own, and not as a combat and tournament weapon of a male stag. To avoid this, the nasal, frontal and part of the parietal bones are left with the horns. If the horns are large and massive, then only the base of the skull with teeth is removed. At the same time, not only the nasal, but also the intermaxillary bones and the upper parts of the orbits are preserved.

The base of the skull is filed with a surgical or carpenter's saw with fine teeth, marking the filing line in advance. To do this, the skull is immersed in water so that only those parts that need to be preserved with horns remain above the water. Having strengthened it in this position, the water level is marked with a pencil, then the skull is taken out of the water and a cut is made along the line. When sawing, the skull must be in a wet state, otherwise dry bones crumble easily.

No matter how the skull is cleaned, fat remains in the bones, which gives them a yellow color, so the bones must be degreased. The easiest way is to soak the skull for 24 hours in pure gasoline, then immerse it in water and boil it quickly. In this case, fire safety measures are especially carefully observed.

For bleaching, you can use a 30% solution of hydrogen peroxide (H 2 O 2). The skull is immersed in the solution, making sure that it does not get on the horns, keeping for 15 minutes (no more). Using a solution of hydrogen peroxide of this concentration should be extremely careful not to damage the skin of the hands and not burn the clothes. The bleached skull is washed with water and dried.

The third method of rapid bleaching is boiling the skull for 5–15 minutes (depending on the size of the skull) in a 25% ammonia solution (250 cm 3 per 1 liter of water). Make sure that the horns do not touch the water. At the end of boiling, a 33% solution of hydrogen peroxide is applied several times to the hot bones with a brush and, without washing it off, the skull is dried. It is better to work with hydrogen peroxide in rubber gloves.

The fourth method - the washed skull is covered with cotton wool or gauze soaked in a 7-10% hydrogen peroxide solution with the addition of 5 ml of 25% ammonia solution per 1 liter of water. Bleaching is carried out for 4-5 hours in a dark place.

Fifth method - the skull is soaked for 1-2 hours in water, then boiled for several minutes, after which it is taken out of the water, dried slightly and a 33% solution of hydrogen peroxide, mixed to a density of sour cream with fine chalk or magnesium powder, is placed on it. it in a dark, damp place for 10–24 hours. Then the skull is washed with water and a brush, and dried in the sun. Make sure that this solution does not get on the horns. After bleaching, light cosmetics of the horns and skull are allowed, light horns can be slightly tinted with a weak solution of potassium permanganate or infusion of walnut shells, for this the shell is dipped in hot water and infused for several hours.

It is necessary to tint the horns very carefully, since experts can give a discount for light horns during evaluation, and remove them from the competition for clumsily tinted horns.

Covering the horns with varnish or other dyes is not allowed, otherwise they will not be allowed to participate in competitions and exhibitions.

Before cosmetics, the skull should be tied in a plastic bag. The tips of the processes of deer antlers can be polished white with fine sandpaper. To give shine, dry horns are coated with a brush with paraffin or stearin dissolved in gasoline. After the solution has dried, the horns are polished to a shine with a shoe brush.

In order to eliminate the roughness on the skull, it is polished with fine sandpaper and rubbed with chalk powder dissolved in denatured alcohol. Talc is applied to a cleanly rubbed bone and covered with a thin layer of a liquid solution of a colorless synthetic varnish or the bones are rubbed with cotton wool soaked in polish. Such varnishing is usually carried out on the skulls of predatory animals.

To extract the fangs of a wild boar, a part of the animal's muzzle is sawn off between the eyes and fangs, as shown in Figure 69. This piece of muzzle must be at least three and a half times longer than the visible part of the lower fangs. The sawn off part is placed in a cauldron of cold water so that it is completely hidden under water. The water is brought to a boil and boiled over low heat for 2-3 hours. After boiling, the jaws with fangs are removed from the boiler and, not allowing them to cool, the fangs are removed. To avoid burns, use gloves or rags. The upper fangs are usually removed easily, and to extract the lower ones, they need to be pulled forward 3–5 cm, and then the jaw bones are carefully opened from the back so that the fangs come out freely. Then the fangs are placed in a cauldron of hot oily water until cool. They should not be left without water and washed with cold water. The fang, cooling in oily water, is saturated with fat and acquires a protective layer. After cooling, the nerves are removed from the fangs and the inner surface is wiped with cotton wool, dried in a humid and warm place to avoid cracking.

Rice. 69. Extraction of boar tusks

After drying, the fangs are degreased with gasoline. It is recommended to fill the inside of the fangs with BF glue (any) and, holding it inside for 5–10 s, pour it out, repeating this two or three times at intervals of 30 minutes. Before this, the glue is heated in a bowl with warm water so that it pours out more easily. Instead of BF glue, the inside of the fangs can be filled with epoxy resin of the following composition: 80 parts of filler and 20 hardener. Instead of glue, the canine cavities can be filled with tweezers with cotton soaked in epoxy resin; after 12 hours, the glue hardens, giving them greater strength.

So that the fangs do not deteriorate from changes in humidity, they can be covered with a thin layer of colorless synthetic varnish. Canine teeth cannot be bleached.

ALEX55555 05-03-2010 20:11

fellow hunters, the jaw of a hooker is lying from last year, teach how to boil fangs ...

Petr...sh 05-03-2010 20:55

I'm not an expert on wild boars at all, more on fangs.
I know quite well about the tusk bear. I will tell you that when I took the maral trophy from the master, I saw boar tusks at the restoration. To the question, what are they cracking? Yes. And very strongly. It seems that everything is correct, everything is done according to science and everything is expensive and the most, but they are cracking. And they burst, and with a screw, and, in every way.
And therefore. It is better to contact the master. Or stupidly fill with epoxy and paste into place.

I repeat, I am zero in this. And my opinion is stupid. (I do it myself, and cover the cracks with auto-sealant)

SHULGA 07-03-2010 13:09

I do this: I immerse in water (with a large supply of water) and, on low heat, boil for several hours. After that, having cooled in a natural way, I take out the fangs. There are moments when the fangs in the boiled jaw dangle freely, but cannot be removed even with effort, then the jaw is carefully destroyed with improvised means (it is convenient to “pinch off” a piece with pliers). You need to be MAXIMUM careful with the edges of the fangs (those in the jaw) - very delicate and fragile.
Next, I treat the extracted fangs with a degreasing agent (you can use good gasoline for lighters), dry well in a NATURAL WAY. Ready.
Storage: I pour STAGES of zpoxide (the maximum possible liquid consistency), let it harden well. I process the outer side very thinly with the most ordinary superglue (it fills microcracks well and does not shine). I place it on a medallion - I attach it using thin straps-rings made of genuine leather. Preservation - ETERNAL, if every 3-5 years again thinly cover the outside with superglue. Appearance - NATURAL.

ALEX55555 09-03-2010 10:19

Thank you friends ... I boiled it, pulled it out, now according to the recommendations and I think they will go for a medallion ...

Bylbash 20-04-2010 19:39

Cook for no more than 30 minutes, so as not to become brittle.
For the past 4 years they have been hanging in the apartment and do not crack.
in the country, too, everything is excellent, but there is more humidity

Sergey outfitter 24-04-2010 03:48

Yes, rather than boiled in 40 minutes, what could be pulled out?

tracker 10-08-2010 20:27

GREAT TROPHY! Where did you get it?

Bylbash 12-08-2010 18:09

Yes, rather than boiled in 40 minutes, what could be pulled out?

Believe!
I put it in water and after 20 minutes I try to press it inward and loosen it a little
Sometimes they even go like this
after 20 minutes I try again and in 90% of cases everything is OK!

Here he gave the fangs to Nemansky for evaluation, he said that the medal, although weak, is there
boiled for 15-20 minutes

Sergey outfitter 16-08-2010 09:17

All of them are the largest found exactly in the Far Eastern taiga and mainly around Khabarovsk! Here, no one feeds them, so they themselves plow with fangs to get tops of roots! And as you know, clicks are growing from this!

Neman 16-08-2010 11:08

quote: Originally posted by Bylbash:

I stir and pull out with rotational movements.

quote: Originally posted by Sergey outfitter:

Here, no one feeds them, so they themselves plow with fangs to get tops of roots! And as you know, clicks are growing from this!

Neman 16-08-2010 11:10

quote: Originally posted by Sergey outfitter:

this cliques were 31 cm each!

Sergey outfitter 17-08-2010 08:10

Is it possible to see these fangs? Or at least look at the trophy list? Or a measurement protocol? In extreme cases - a photo extracted against the background of the ruler?

Sergey outfitter 17-08-2010 08:12

quote: Originally posted by Sergey outfitter:

Is it possible to see these fangs? Or at least look at the trophy list? Or a measurement protocol? In extreme cases - a photo extracted against the background of the ruler?

Neman 17-08-2010 12:56

Weidmann's Heil 19-08-2010 03:33

Fangs crack from changes in% humidity and temperature changes in the room. Therefore, boiled and immediately pulled out into the air burst especially quickly, it is better for them, as already mentioned here, to cool in a saucepan, then wrap in a rag, paper and a plastic bag on a shelf. I tried to get fangs without boiling, by rotting. After that, they stink a little, and even dirtier than boiled ones, but they crack less, although they still crack. Now I have adapted to protect them with cyanoacrylate glue, as fluid as possible, it is less noticeable than epoxy. After walking with fine metal wool. Glue like this http://shintop.ru/novokusnetsk/catalog_shop.php?action=item&id=1271300527 or similar. This is cotton wool http://www.sibglazier.ru/catalog.html/prods/tehnologija-nakladnogo-vitrazha/instrumenty-i-aksessuary/regalead/metallicheskaja-vata-20720

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However

Sergey outfitter 23-09-2010 03:49

quote: Originally posted by Nemansky:

There is no 31 cm on the photo. Ordinary ordinary fangs.

oos 22-02-2011 20:21

Probably off topic, but I didn’t find a better place. They brought a boar’s head with such fangs (right 35 cm, left 38). The upper fangs are underdeveloped. The boar was said to be ordinary, 120 kilograms.