Do-it-yourself metal engraving with an engraver. Chemical engraving technology on metal

Hello everyone, now I will describe a rather funny way of applying an inscription or design to ANY unpainted metal very quickly and without the help of special skills and special tool. The method is the simplest and safest. Let's call it electro-chemical etching. To implement our plans, we will need a stencil of the intended design, made on a piece of self-adhesive film, such as “oracal” or adhesive tape.
I found an advertising sticker consisting of a self-adhesive film and a paper backing, which is removed before use, applied the desired design and slowly cut out the contours with a stationery knife.

To enlarge the photo, click on it with the mouse

I disassembled the smartphone (and I advise you to do the same, you will understand why later), degreased the surface and glued the stencil so that it fits tightly on all edges.

Now the most interesting thing is that all we need directly for etching is any direct current source (I have a 24 volt power supply), the voltage does not play a special role, the higher it is, the faster it is etched, but you can work comfortably at 5 volts , a crocodile clip (you can do without it), a cotton swab and a little salt boiled water(I took a couple of teaspoons of salt per 50 ml). That's all

Now we throw the positive contact with the help of a crocodile onto the free section of our part (it will be visible in the photo below), and on the negative one we strip the insulation and insert the wire into a cotton swab cut in half until it stops, i.e. so that the bare wire touches the cotton wool. Who guessed what we are doing next 5 plus))), for the rest - we moisten the cotton wool on the negative contact salt water and touch it to a section of metal inside our stencil. What should be there is a slight hissing, slight heating and darkening of the metal, if this is not the case, then we check the contact on the wire with the cotton wool, I repeat that it should touch it, it is also possible that you confused + with -, then it should not darken, but it will hiss. I do not recommend keeping the cotton wool on the part for a long time, because... It can get quite hot, it’s better to go over the stencil pointwise, or with quick strokes. Make sure you don't miss anything and go over the entire stencil, and that you rub the cotton about the same number of times (or touch the cotton for the same amount of time) on all parts so that the etching is even.
In general, it’s worth trying first on some other metal object, so that you can imagine what awaits you, but only with a stencil (you can just stick two strips of tape, leave a strip of metal a couple of millimeters between them, and try it on it), otherwise there will be cotton wool leaving only uneven spots when etching the metal.

After finishing the etching, wipe with a dry cloth and carefully remove the sticker (it can be used again). Again, we wipe the part from any remaining glue from the film and voila. You should get a pressed pattern that exactly follows the outline of the stencil. The depth of the relief depends on the etching time.

The main thing is not to rush with the stencil; everything should be cut out as evenly as possible.
In general, there is nothing complicated, after the first attempt you will understand how best to work, and then only improvement)))
The field of activity is simply huge - from mobile phones and stamps on knives and forks to painting the legs of chairs and chrome parts of a motorcycle/bicycle/car, you can make boxes and keychains)) In general, it depends on your imagination. As I already wrote, absolutely any metal is suitable, I tried it on chrome, steel (of different brands), aluminum and copper. You can also improve or remake the “working pen”, but personally I’m happy with a cotton swab.

With the help of engraving, almost any item can be made unique. It should also be noted that products with inscriptions or images printed on them will make excellent gifts.

The popularity of engraving in the modern world

Many people try to put personalized inscriptions on their products that will remind them of the events that took place. It is very popular to apply them to gold and silver jewelry. An excellent example is wedding rings and family heirlooms.

Metal engraving, done with your own hands, makes it possible to apply a variety of inscriptions and images on the surface. In addition, glass and plastic objects can be used for work. The required image can be applied using a laser, engraver or graver.

What is needed to apply an image to any surface?

Engraving at home on a metal, glass or plastic surface can be done using a sharp object. The most common tool designed for these purposes is an engraver. It is worth understanding that all products that are necessary for engraving are produced by various organizations. IN this moment You can find engraver models such as autonomous and electric.

Drills can also be used for engraving. They will cope perfectly with any type of surface. Borers can have different forms. For the manufacture of this type of tools are also used various materials. In addition, drills are needed to perform various jobs. Diamond models are rightfully considered to be highly durable tools of this type. If you are a fan of engraving, then metal and glass drills must be present in your arsenal.

Technology of applying an image to any surface of the house

To ensure that engraving at home does not cause any special complications, you need to know the technology for applying images. It is as follows:

After the contours are finalized, all that remains is to complete the smaller elements. When engraving at home is completed, you will need to cover the sheet with a layer of varnish or wax.

What are the main methods of applying images?

Laser engraving is the most common method of applying an image to any surface. It is especially often used in the case of drawings that can be applied to a surface thanks to the use of the latest equipment. Engraving is done quickly. But it cannot be called simple, since special equipment is required. In this regard, laser engraving at home can be done, but with great difficulty.

It is also worth noting that this type of image application is dangerous to human health. Every care should be taken to prevent physical contact when working with the laser. In this regard, another engraving method should be noted, which is less dangerous. We are talking about the use of special chemical compounds.

This method of engraving, in addition to safety, is also distinguished by the fact that it can be used to create three-dimensional images on the surface of a part, which cannot be achieved using a laser.

Summarize

We are convinced that even with your own hands you can apply an image to any object. You can, for example, engrave a knife. As can be seen from the review, doing this at home is not so difficult. The main thing is not to rush and approach this process thoroughly.

Conditions yourself. After all, it looks very beautiful and impressive if you decide to give your friends or loved ones a valuable personalized gift with wishes that will never be erased or fade in the sun. The inscription will always remind a person of you, making you remember the most wonderful moments spent together.

Let's watch the video and then move on to the process:

We will need:
- photo varnish for printed circuit boards Positive 20;
- product for engraving;
- glass;
- alkali NaOH;
- acid or ferric chloride; UV lamp;
- a bone for etching;
- container for solutions;
- acetone, for removing varnish after etching.

A stencil for engraving is prepared in advance.

A stencil can be made using the program Adobe Photoshop. Just don’t forget that after making the desired text or drawing in Photoshop, it must be mirrored horizontally so that the text can be read properly on the product. You can also use QuarkXPress, but also be sure to mirror the image you created.

It is best to print the stencil on laser printer. Just plain paper will not work for this; you need to use a special film. If the toner is not dark enough, then you can take two identical stencils and carefully glue them together.

Engraving is done using photo varnish for printed circuit boards. You can purchase it at almost any radio market.

The principle of operation is as follows.

A thin layer of photo varnish is applied to the product to be engraved, which must first be shaken. Don't forget to put newspaper on your work table to avoid getting it dirty. After application, allow some time for it to dry thoroughly.

Then a stencil with the desired text or engraving design is applied to the product. Turn off the bright lights first, otherwise flare will occur. Then it is pressed with glass or a thin film, which can also be fixed to the metal using small magnets; they should not overlap the inscription.

The assembled structure is illuminated with an ultraviolet lamp. Don't forget to wear special safety glasses to avoid harm to your eyes. The exposure time should be 5 – 10 minutes.

The stencils are removed and the metal is washed with a NaOH alkali solution of the correct concentration or a sewer cleaner, observing safety precautions.

The exposed varnish is washed off to the metal, after which you can begin etching using acid or ferric chloride, depending on the metal from which the product is made.

Application to various items drawing by the method of removing a substance from its surface has been known to mankind for many millennia.

With the advent of new materials, the need arose to develop working methods that allow engraving on objects that are much harder than wood and stone. New technologies make it possible to fully automate the engraving process when applying a design to a metal surface, but for a home craftsman, the most suitable option is to master the manual method of applying a design.

Do-it-yourself metal engraving is possible at home, if you have the tools and suitable premises to perform this type of work.

For manual engraving at home, you will need the following tools and materials:

• Stichel.
• Metal blank.
• A vice or similar device for holding a workpiece stationary.

The blank for applying the pattern can be used from any metal, but for beginning craftsmen it is better to use aluminum or copper.

The graver is a rod up to 120 mm long. One end of this tool is cut at an angle and sharpened, the other is installed in a handle made of wood or plastic.

Stichel may be different shapes, and also differ in the width of the working surface. If you do not have this tool, you can make it yourself if you have materials suitable for this purpose.

Making your own gravel

To make a gravel, it is necessary to use tool steel. The metal used in springs and ball bearings is excellent for this purpose. To make a cutting surface, you can use old files and needle files, as well as various cutters that need to be cut into thin strips.

The ideal material for making an engraving pen is P18 steel. From old circular saw wheels you can make a large number of blanks for the production of gravers at home. Next, the working part of the workpiece is sharpened at an angle that will make it possible to make a notch of a certain width on the metal surface.

The handle of the gravel is made of wood hard rocks, and should be of such a width that it is convenient for the master to hold the tool in his hand. The recommended length of this part of the gravel is usually 50 mm.

A mushroom-shaped handle is the most suitable for making this tool, but you can experiment and make several different options, and in the process choose the most suitable option.

Preparation of the workpiece

First of all, you should select a blank on which the drawing will be displayed. The selected product must be free of rust and chips. To prepare the surface you will need:

• Sandpaper P400.
• GOI paste No. 1 or No. 2

First, the workpiece is polished using sandpaper. Then final polishing is carried out using GOI paste.

To avoid damage to the surface, when carrying out polishing work with GOI paste, it is recommended to use this product only No. 1 or No. 2.

You should also do the following before finishing polishing with this product:

1. Prepare a flannel cloth and moisten it with white spirit
2. Pour GOI paste onto a dampened cloth.
3. Wipe the unwanted area of ​​metal with a cloth to remove large pieces that could scratch the surface.

After such preparation, the workpiece is polished using uniform circular movements. After completing the polishing activities, the metal object must be rinsed in kerosene and dried at room temperature.

The process of engraving on metal

If you are engraving a metal surface for the first time, then before you start applying the main design, it is recommended to practice on an unnecessary piece of metal.

The ideal option for such training is to use a copper plate. A piece of copper should be securely fixed to a wooden board using self-tapping screws with wide heads. When the workpiece is secured, the board is placed on the table, additional lighting is turned on, if necessary, and clamped cutting tool in the right hand, and make an even notch on the metal surface.

To prevent your hand from slipping when making a straight line, on the surface metal plate left thumbs and right hand must be connected and touch the plate where the design is made. The index finger of the right hand, at this time, rests on the tool’s cutter and completely controls the process of drawing lines. It is recommended to first make several straight parallel stripes on the workpiece. When the smooth areas look good, you can move on to making semicircular lines.

When your hand is already a little full, you can begin to engrave the design on the workpiece. To carry out this work, the metal object must also be securely fixed. For this purpose, a device similar to the self-tapping locking mechanism described above should be made.

For engraving simple figures, initials and other simple images, you can start immediately after securing the metal object. If you need to make a complex drawing, it is recommended to first transfer the image to the workpiece.

Transferring a complex image to metal

The original method of transferring an image to a metal base is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Varnish is applied to the surface of the metal being processed.
2. Using a soft graphite pencil, an image is drawn on a polyester film that will be engraved on the workpiece.
3. The drawing is covered with tape, pressed over the entire area to the film and carefully removed from it. In this case, the image drawn earlier will remain on the sticky surface of the tape.
4. When the varnish dries, the tape is attached to the metal surface, smoothed with a roller or other soft object, and then removed.

After correct execution Following the described actions, a drawing will remain on the product, which can be used for engraving.

Other engraving methods

In addition to the manual engraving method at home, the following methods can be used to change the relief of a metal surface:

1. Chemical engraving is a method that can be easily done at home, even if you have a regular table salt And charger for phone.
2. Using a drill is a great method for home use. The principle of metal removal by this method is similar to manual engraving, but instead of a burr, a drill or similar device with a rotating thin blade is used.
3. - is the most advanced way of applying a pattern to a metal surface, but equipment for this type of work will be too expensive. The use of this engraving method is justified only when the hobby of drawing designs on metal becomes a profession and brings in a constant income.

Conclusion

How to make engraving on metal and which method to master to perform this type of work, everyone must decide for themselves. To begin with, it is recommended to purchase a professional tool for self made. After working with hand tools for some time, you can move on to mastering the equipment, which will significantly speed up the engraving process.

In this material I want to tell you about engraving on metal. Stages engraving on metal almost no different from the same ones, but still there are some nuances.

Tools and materials

For engraving on metal, we need the same thing as for engraving on plexiglass - the same Dremel and attachments, namely: cone-shaped and spherical. In this case, a flexible shaft is necessary, because although metal is harder than plexiglass, working with it requires greater delicacy, and when working with aluminum, you cannot do without it at all. If you want to experiment, then it’s worth taking a polish. But take a protective one - no GOI pastes or the like. That seems to be all there is to this point.

• First, clean workplace and choose a surface of such a size that you can wrap the workpiece without problems. When engraving on metal, you don't need directional light - just regular lighting will suffice.
• The second most important thing is comfort. Sit so that your hand can freely reach the top of the workpiece. Also lay the workpiece and check it for deflection. It may be that at the very important point the metal will bend and the cutter will lead in the wrong direction, ruining the whole job.
• Wipe the surface well, remove all dust and get rid of grease.
• Fasten it well b. If you have a tripod, great, great. But there are cases when the Dremel lies without fixation, therefore there are two options: either engrave with one eye and look at the tool with the other, or simply tie it to the table with something. For example, I hold the Dremel on my knee - it’s most convenient for me.

So let's get started with the process. First, we select a design and print one on self-adhesive paper, and the second on plain paper. I'll tell you why the second one later.

Printed design for engraving

On top of everything else, I also had to trace all the lines additionally, from which I learned a useful trick. Next we will figure out the location of the drawing, and after that we will glue it. It is advisable to glue starting from the corner and continuing diagonally. No blistering of the paper directly on the drawing is allowed.

To begin, take a cone-shaped nozzle. The photo shows how it has become frayed during use, but the tip itself is still capable of producing a straight line.

Cone-shaped nozzle on a flexible shaft

We sit down to work, cross ourselves three times and begin. During work Don’t get distracted, don’t get annoyed, and don’t overthink. The most optimal movement of the nozzle will be if you position it at a degree and move it towards a more acute angle. In the figure below, it needs to be moved to the lower right corner.

The process of engraving on metal.

Here are some intermediate photos of the work.

On last photo you can see how the paper has been torn off. Mostly I shoot it under hot water, but this time there wasn’t a drop of liquid in the garage, so I was impatient and just tore it off. Anyone who can be more careful should experiment with this matter. You can, for example, paint over all this, getting an original effect. As a result, we have a good, but unfinished picture, which itself looks lonely against a black background.

The first version of engraving on metal

But now we take that same unused drawing and outline on it with a pencil the places where we will “fill in”. After this, we take a spherical nozzle and begin to fill. The result is this:

Engraving on metal with filling

• If needed engrave long line, start at the bottom and move the Dremel away from you. Somehow the line turns out very smooth. As I say: “With soul.”
• When you first start engraving, take a pen and draw the main lines directly on the drawing, excluding unnecessary ones.
• Very often, paper gets under the cutter and gets chewed, after which the cutter can go in the wrong direction purely mechanically. To avoid this, you should start the line a little further and end a little earlier. Then, during the final revision, you will adjust it.
• If it happens that the entire section is very difficult, then simply put dots on the lines and connect them at the end.
• During pouring, do not randomly scrape off the paint. If the fill line is very large, then you should not fill it progressively. It is best to go from start to finish without stopping the cutter in a separate area.
• Again - don't make very small details. The consequence may be peeling of the paint.