Sea turtle at home. What do aquatic turtles eat at home?

Aquatic turtles are predators, unlike their land-based counterparts, so you need to feed the aquatic turtle accordingly, mostly with animal products. Thanks to this diet, these turtles have a higher than land species, metabolism. Therefore, you need to approach the diet of an aquatic turtle somewhat differently than a land turtle.

Diet

Protein must be present in the diet of an aquatic turtle. It is vital for the health of your pet, so keeping a predatory aquatic turtle on a plant-based diet is unacceptable. Experts recommend the following proportion of animal and plant foods:

• 70-90% of the diet should be food of animal origin, preference should be given to fish and seafood, but with great pleasure the reptile also eats meat, for example, young mice and rat pups, with rat pups being preferable.
• Up to 20% of the diet may contain food of plant origin. You can feed your aquatic turtle with lettuce, plantain, clover, seaweed, carrot tops and wheat germ.
• No more than 10% of nutrition can be dry specialized food containing vitamin D3 and other essential microelements and vitamins.

Now let's take a closer look at what to feed an aquatic turtle at home and make a list of suitable products.

Fish and seafood

The basis of the diet should be food that is habitual for the reptile, i.e. the kind that your pet eats in its natural habitat, most of which are fish and seafood.

The fish should not be fatty, and not large sizes. Ideal option will be if the turtle can swallow the fish whole with bones and head. It is not necessary to give live food to the turtle, but experts recommend occasionally releasing it into the aquarium (or a special feeder) to maintain the predator instinct. live fish. It is better to cut large fish into pieces and remove the scales. The following types of fish are suitable for feeding:

• crucian carp,
• perch,
• cod,
• bull,
• blue whiting.

Fish caviar can also be offered to a turtle.

Before giving it to the reptile, fatty fish should be cut into pieces and doused with boiling water, then kept in a hot water. It is better to refrain from feeding the turtle the following fish:

• Tulka,
• sprat,
• herring,
• mullet,
• pink salmon,
• capelin

• Crustaceans (crayfish, crabs, squid) - in limited quantities and monitor the reaction to such food. Give only meat from the tail. Discard the shell and internal organs.
• Raw shrimp with shell. The shell contains large amounts of calcium, which the turtle needs. Can be given in unlimited quantities.
• Frogs. Can be given in unlimited quantities. The frog should be small in size, purchased from a specialty store or bred specifically for feeding. It is not worth catching and feeding toads from a neighboring place for food.
• Mussels, octopuses. You can give in unlimited quantities. You can also buy from a store or from people who breed live food for sale.

Meat and insects

Insects can be used as additional food; you should feed an aquatic turtle insects no more than once a week. For individuals under two years of age, you should refrain from feeding with insects. Insects can be stored in the refrigerator and offered to reptiles after defrosting. Dry, live and stunned insects are also suitable. In any case, you should monitor your pet’s reaction to such food.

The following types of insects are suitable for a turtle's diet:

• Grasshoppers and crickets. A rich source of calcium, it is better not to offer it live to your pet.
• Any not poisonous species snails An excellent source of protein, can be easily grown for feeding at home. Can be given live.
• Cockroaches. Of course, catching a domestic cockroach is not worth it. Inquire about the availability of marbled cockroaches at the pet store and offer them to your pet. You shouldn't give it to a turtle.
• Worms. An ordinary earthworm, well washed from the soil, as well as a mealworm. Although some breeders do not recommend feeding worms to turtles, complaining about diseases of the gastrointestinal tract.

From meat products, you can offer the turtle chicken or other lean poultry meat. Beef can be given occasionally. The turtle will also like chicken or beef liver. Fatty meats such as lamb or pork should be avoided.

You should include meat products in your turtle's diet no more than once a week.

Plant food

You should feed your sea turtle at home plant food no more than two to three times a month. Food of plant origin should be offered exclusively to adults over two years of age.

This is due to the fact that with age, turtles accumulate the required amount of protein and do not require such intensive growth as young individuals. It is also worth understanding that your turtle may refuse plant food, for example, it will treat such food with contempt, and most likely will leave it untouched.

As plant food, you can offer your pet plants that are suitable for feeding:

• Young leaves of dandelion, plantain, nettle.
• Sprouted wheat, young shoots of carrots.
• Young cabbage leaf or lettuce.
• Various seaweeds, dry seaweed.
• Cucumbers, tomatoes, pumpkin.
• Apples, banana, pear.

Prohibited Products

Foods that should not be fed to a sea turtle include:

• fatty fish and meat, as well as fatty minced meat;
• dairy products (cheeses, milk, cottage cheese);
• eggs and eggshells in any form;
• crab sticks and other preservatives;
• salty, peppery food.

Where to feed and how often

When asked how much to feed domestic aquatic turtles, the answer is the same as in the case of their land counterparts. For young individuals, once a day will be enough, preferably in the morning. For reptiles that have reached the age of two, you can offer food two or three times a week; adults are also best fed in the morning, although this is not as important for sea turtles as for land turtles. If your turtle likes to eat at night, don’t deny him this pleasure.

The best way to feed an aquatic turtle at home is in a separate container. This is due, first of all, to the fact that the remains of fish and other food of animal origin will remain in the aquarium, thereby polluting it. If you do not place the turtle in a separate container, you will have to change the water in the reptile's aquarium two or even three times a week. To avoid an unpleasant odor and possible illness for your pet, the easiest way is to purchase a small aquarium for feeding the turtle, or another container where you place the turtle for the duration of the meal. After the turtle has eaten, return it to the aquarium.

Now you know what to feed your pet aquatic turtles, and we hope that this information will help your pet stay healthy for many years to come.

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Red-eared turtles require relatively simple care and maintenance. Therefore, they are great for beginners. However, compliance with the temperature regime, rules for aquaterrarium arrangement, principles of walking and hygiene is extremely important and necessary. To live comfortably at home, red-eared turtles need not only a swimming pool, but also warm land where UV rays reach. The water where turtles spend most of their time must be at a certain temperature, clean, and changed regularly.

IN natural environment red-eared turtles love quiet freshwater bodies of water with dense vegetation and a comfortable sandy shore. The conditions for keeping a red-eared turtle at home should be as close to natural as possible.

Making a home for a red-eared slider

“How to care for a red-eared slider?” – this is often a relevant question after purchasing a reptile. However, in order for your pet to live comfortably, you need to take care in advance and purchase:

1. A special aquaterrarium made of silicate glass with a capacity of 150-200 liters.
2. Water heater.
3. External or internal filter.
4. UV lamp for aquatic turtles.
5. Heating lamp.
6. Lamp.
7. Thermometer.
8. Land/shore/island.
9. Supplies for caring for a turtle: a soft cloth, special claw clippers, etc.

Land in an aquaterrarium

The island for the red-eared slider should be:

• Accessible and wide enough, without sharp corners and burrs.
• Have a rough texture. This is especially true for the ladder. The turtle should not slide when crawling onto the island. You need to be careful when using pebbles as a covering: poorly glued pebbles can be swallowed by a turtle.
• Strong and stable to support the turtle's weight.
• Absolutely dry, i.e. Water should not be poured onto it so that the reptile can dry out and warm up.
• Position it no higher than 20 centimeters from the top of the aquarium, otherwise the turtle may escape.
• Well heated - a heating and ultraviolet lamp should be located directly above the island; the temperature on land should be higher than the water temperature, approximately 30-32°C.
• Made from safe, non-toxic materials - foam and cheap plastic are not suitable for these purposes.
• With a properly located ladder under which the turtle will not get stuck.

You can make such an island yourself or purchase it at a pet store.

Priming

Owners have different opinions about the need for soil in an aquaterrarium. Some do not accept it, explaining that turtles do not need soil, and cleaning is much faster. Others argue that the lack of soil leads to deformation of the limbs and various diseases.

What should the soil be like? The soil layer depends on the volume of the aquaterrarium; the thickness can be from 3 to 10 cm. Smooth sea stones of large fractions, artificial plants (for example, special grass), various driftwood, sand, etc. are suitable materials.

Avoid using small pebbles, granite chips, and stones with sharp edges as soil. Such materials can be dangerous to the turtle.

Lamps for aquaterrarium

In the wild, turtles crawl ashore to warm themselves, and the same must be done for them at home. The lamp in the aquaterrarium should have a power of 40-60 W. and be located directly above land. If you mount the lamp yourself, determine its installation level empirically (usually about 30 cm above the island), you need to make sure that the temperature from it is in the range of 30-32°C. Be careful because... a nearby lamp can burn the reptile. The aquaterrarium lamp must be protected from water and fumes.

The turtle does not particularly need lighting as such. The main function of the lamp is heating. Therefore, an infrared lamp is suitable as a heat source for turtles. At night, as a rule, it is turned off.

Properly installed temperature regime and the presence of UV rays is hardly the most important points in caring for a red-eared slider at home. UV rays are very important for the turtle; they help the reptile’s body produce the necessary vitamin D3 and absorb calcium from food. If there is no such lamp in the aquaterrarium, the turtle begins to suffer from rickets. They are usually installed at a distance of about 0.4-0.5 m from the animal. It should be borne in mind that over time the power of the lamps decreases and they should be changed approximately every six months.

Like a heating lamp, an ultraviolet lamp should work for 10-12 hours. For adult reptiles, a lamp with UVB 10% is used. Well proven brands Repti Glo, Repti Zoo, Reptistar, created specifically for reptiles.

Suitable lamps for red-eared turtles are usually sold in pairs, so finding the right ones should not be difficult. It is very convenient to use a special timer that will turn them on and off at a certain time. This is especially important for establishing the so-called. “internal clock”, animal biorhythms.

Water

The red-eared turtle is an aquatic reptile and spends a lot of time in water, so it is very important to monitor its quality and cleanliness.

You need to filter and change water frequently, because... dirt in an aquaterrarium is one of the sources of infections.

The amount of water should be such that the reptile can turn over freely, i.e. level not less than the width of the shell. It is better if there is more liquid. This way the aquaterrarium will remain clean longer.

The optimal water temperature for red-eared turtles is 22-24°C. You must use a special thermometer. There is no need to trust your own feelings and check the temperature on yourself. If the temperature has decreased, the water needs to be heated.

Over time, harmful substances accumulate in water. This may cause an unpleasant odor. To avoid this incident, you should replace the water by 30-40% 1-2 times a week with tap water that has stood for at least a day.

It is also necessary to use external or internal filters. Regular water changes do not mean that filters can be abandoned.

Hygiene of the red-eared turtle

Caring for a red-eared turtle at home is relatively simple. It is recommended to bathe her no more than once a week. To do this, a pre-prepared container is filled with water (about 2/3 of the reptile’s growth). The water temperature should not be lower than 36°C. Swimming in cold water can harm your pet. It is good to add chamomile decoction to the bath. Remember that red-eared sliders may defecate while swimming, so keep a close eye on them. Immediately replace contaminated fluid with clean fluid.

Do not use hard brushes for washing; it is better to use a soft cloth. Shampoo or soap is not recommended. If you notice a dark coating on the shell, it is most likely a fungus or algae. Buy a special reptile product and treat your pet.

If necessary, red-eared turtles have their claws trimmed. This procedure is done using special tweezers. In this case, the claw is checked for clearance so as not to touch the blood vessels.

It is advisable to clean the aquaterrarium at least once a month. The container and island are thoroughly washed with baking soda, the soil is calcined in the oven, artificial plants and driftwood are also thoroughly washed and scalded with boiling water.

Handling the red-eared slider

At first glance, red-eared turtles seem harmless and relatively harmless animals, but they must be handled with care.

Firstly, you must always handle the red-eared slider with both hands. So that the reptile does not accidentally slip out and get hurt. It should be borne in mind that a melancholic pet may resist: biting, hissing and emptying its intestines.

Secondly, after the turtle has been in your hands, wash them thoroughly with soap. This especially applies to children.

Third, the reptile should not have access to the kitchen and places where food is taken. You should also not wash your turtle or its care accessories in the kitchen sink.

Walking with a red-eared turtle

Despite the fact that the turtle feels great in a properly equipped aquaterrarium, walks on the water will be useful in the summer. fresh air. Firstly, she will receive the necessary dose of UV rays, secondly, she will run freely on the grass, and thirdly, she will simply enjoy healthy fresh greens.

The optimal air temperature is from 20°C in the shade. The walking area must be clean and away from the trails. It is desirable that ordinary lawn grass grow on it.

Walking time is 30 minutes or more. If the turtle is lethargic and tired, it should be taken home. There is no need to insist that the animal be under the sun. It is best to walk your reptile in the shade. Place a container of water in a visible place. It is also necessary to ensure that the turtle does not become prey birds of prey or the object of play by other pets.

Caring for Little Red Eared Turtles

Baby red-eared turtles? creatures are gentle, receptive and sensitive. It is not recommended to hold small turtles. They may feel stressed and sick. Also, you should not often stand over the terrarium and knock on the glass.

The temperature of the habitat must be stable. For cubs it is recommended: water – 26-27°C and air – 32°C. Temperature changes and drafts are not allowed.

Clean water is the key to the health of small red-eared turtles. Don't skimp on a good filter.

The world of turtles is amazingly diverse. Very tiny and huge, land and water, brightly and effectively colored and having completely inconspicuous colors - all these reptiles inhabit our planet. Today we will talk about what it means to keep aquatic turtles at home.

The family Emydidae includes about ninety-five species, grouped into thirty-three genera, which live in freshwater bodies of America, Europe, Asia and North-West Africa. Many aquatic members of the family have bright colors, beautifully colored heads, legs and shells.

Today we will focus on two types of these animals, which are most often bred at home. This Far Eastern Trionix and the red-eared slider. These are cold-blooded animals that need warmth, a balanced diet, with the obligatory addition of vitamins and minerals. About what to feed water turtle at home, we will tell you a little later.

Red-eared or swamp individuals are kept as pets. They are distinguished by their small size and relative ease of care. Despite its small size, this reptile lives for quite a long time.

Both experienced aquarists and beginners in this business get such a pet. Red-eared water turtles at home do not cause much concern to the owner. They are small in size and have a fairly long lifespan.

The reptile got its name from the two spots that are located on the sides of the head. They can be yellow, deep orange or bright red. The length of the shell can vary from 11 cm to 60 cm. This depends on the age of the turtle. It has an oval-round, streamlined shape. The entire shell is covered with horn-shaped plates-scutes. The toes end in sharp claws and are connected by membranes. The head is covered with soft skin.

The main factors that contribute to the comfortable keeping of reptiles at home are temperature, lighting (including ultraviolet radiation), and water filtration.

Another representative of water turtles that aquarists love to keep at home. Trionix is ​​a soft-bodied reptile with a long neck, which distinguishes it from other representatives of its large family. Its paws have three toes with sharp and strong claws. The structural features of Trionix are due to its aquatic lifestyle. They spend most of their time buried in soft soil. This may be silt, fine sand or small stones. In this way they lie in wait for prey.

Water turtles at home first of all need an aquarium. An aquaterrarium should become their home. It should be horizontal, and its length should be at least twice the height, since for this type of reptile the area of ​​their “house” is more important, not the volume.

Turtles grow very quickly, so choose a spacious aquaterrarium so that your pet can move freely in it. The water part should occupy about 2/3 of the entire area. It is advisable to make the “shore” of the pool flat, as in natural conditions, so that your pet can easily go to the island of land.

The size of this island depends on the size of your pet. It should fit completely there freely. It is necessary to take into account that the island must be shaped in such a way that the water flowing from the turtle does not stagnate on it. It must be made of non-slip materials. Today, such islands can be offered to you in pet stores. This will save your time on its construction.

An aquarium requires a water purification filter and an ultraviolet lamp. Without ultraviolet light, turtles do not absorb calcium well. The bottom of the aquarium is laid out with pebbles or coarse soil. The reptile will definitely taste the soil with its teeth, so the size of the pebbles should be larger than the turtle’s head. When purchasing, find out what breed it belongs to. The temperature of the water in the aquarium depends on this.

It is impossible to oversaturate the terrarium with light, but you should not skimp on lighting. Water turtles kept at home especially appreciate the sun. They vitally need additional ultraviolet radiation, since its lack can provoke the development various diseases. Today, such UV lamps can be selected from a huge range of products from domestic and foreign manufacturers. They have different power and price categories. The choice of lamp depends on the volume of the terrarium, the number of turtles living in it, etc. Pet store sellers will give you detailed advice. But experienced aquarists recommend purchasing such devices with five percent UVB.

Water turtles spend the whole day in the aquaterrarium. At home, your pet can only be placed in another container with water while cleaning or feeding. You should not let him go on the floor, as the animal may get some kind of infection or be injured.

Proper care of a water turtle at home involves installing a powerful filter. Even if it is available, you should not forget to partially or completely replace the water at least once a week.

The aquaterrarium must be equipped with good ventilation. But don't confuse ventilation with drafts. These reptiles are very afraid of them, they can get colds.

This question worries many lovers of these cute animals. It should be noted that it must be taken very seriously. What you feed your water turtle at home determines 80% of your pet’s well-being and life expectancy.

The diet should include low-fat raw fish, no sharp bones. It is cut into small pieces, depending on the size of your pet.

You shouldn’t limit yourself to just fish. It should be alternated with seafood, aquarium snails. Turtles will not refuse beef liver or earthworms.

Occasionally you can diversify your diet with chicken or beef. All products are given raw. For adult turtles, plant foods can be added to the menu. These can be lettuce leaves, pieces of pear, cucumber or apple. But most often, water turtles at home eat special dry food, since it contains an ideal balance of all necessary vitamins and microelements.

Pets that are less than ten centimeters in length should be fed every day, and individuals exceeding this size should be fed no more than three times a week. The portion is calculated based on the amount of food that the animal eats in thirty to forty minutes. During feeding, it is advisable to place the animals in a special container with water, so as not to clog the water in the turtle’s permanent home. We hope you have learned what aquatic turtles eat at home. These tips will help keep your pet healthy. long years.

Most often, aquatic representatives of the family feed on perishable food. In addition, the natural excretions of animals heavily pollute the terrarium. Previously, owners of such pets had to change the water several times a week. Now, thanks to the fact that modern filters are on sale today various designs, caring for them has become much easier.

For a small aquarium with small specimens, a regular internal filter equipped with a sponge will be sufficient. Today there are many such filters that are suitable for small bodies of water. They do their job perfectly and purify water from small and medium-sized dirt particles.

IN Lately appeared and became very popular special devices, significantly simplifying the care of aquaterrariums. These are “biological filters”. They use special bacteria that remove nitrogen compounds.

In addition, the pet store will offer you specialized fillers, which, as a rule, are made foreign manufacturers. They are helping for a long time maintain water in ideal condition and prevent the development of bacteria in it.

If your turtle is not cared for properly, your pet may get sick. The owner should be very attentive to the appearance of symptoms such as:

• crooked or soft shell;


• swollen or constantly closed eyes;


• peeling of the skin;


• lack of appetite;


• runny nose.

A sick pet moves little, spends a lot of time on the island of land, and often refuses food. In such cases, you cannot hesitate - he urgently needs to be shown to a veterinarian. To treat a turtle, you will need to find a specialist who deals specifically with these animals, since it is difficult to diagnose them.

Caring for a water turtle should be a pleasure for the owner, only in this case both the person and the animal will be satisfied. If you are too busy at work, and therefore circumstances do not allow you to give the turtle the attention it deserves, hold off on purchasing it. Otherwise, keeping such a cute pet will turn into a boring chore for you, which will lead to illness and even death.

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The choice of a pet is decided long before going to the pet store. Some people like active animals, but slow animals also have many adherents.

Their unusual appearance and emphasized phlegmatic nature attract lovers of wildlife.

The “guest” of our review is the red-eared turtle. Let's consider caring for her at home and proper feeding.

Short description

This one is also known as yellow-bellied. Basic natural habitat- northern and central regions of North America, as well as the southwest South America. IN large quantities distributed on the Iberian Peninsula and South Africa.

The species got its name because of the noticeable red (optionally orange) stripe that runs from the eyes and down to the neck. Note that the colors are very varied, and instead of a stripe there may be large bright spots, complemented by a narrow “ribbon” at the chin.

The top of the shell (the so-called carapace) is round in shape and smooth to the touch. Its olive green color is “diluted” with yellow and black lines. The bottom of the shell (plastron) is yellowish in color, interspersed with blue spots. Young individuals have a bright green carapace, which begins to darken as they grow. The same goes for spots and “signature” stripes.

By size this type refers to the average: the length of the carapace ranges from 19–30 cm (in “domestic” specimens the carapace is larger, usually 25–28 cm). Females are much larger than males.
At the "red girls" perfectly developed sense of smell and vision- it has been proven that they distinguish colors and the smallest details at a distance of 35–40 m. The sense of touch is also in order - if there is a choice, the turtle will easily settle on more tasty food. This is a kind of compensation for not particularly developed hearing. The ears are closed, and a layer of skin muffles the sound. The reptile can only distinguish vibrations or dull sounds.

Important! Often purchased copy- not the only one in the “collection”. Such newcomers are housed in community aquarium not immediately, but after a 2-month quarantine in a separate container with all the conditions. If it turns out that he was never accepted, then the “temporary building” becomes a permanent home.

Such pets are “taciturn”; the most that can be heard from them is a weak squeak, a quiet snort or hiss.

They prefer leisurely swimming, which alternates with long rests on various kinds of snags. There they love to “catch” the sun’s rays.

Purchase rules

If you decide to purchase such an “armadillo,” be patient and take your choice seriously.

The best place to purchase would be a pet store, where they can give sensible advice. Unfortunately, there are not many such establishments, so you have to rely on your own knowledge.

Pay attention to the following points:

1. Condition of skin and shell. There should be no blood, scratches or unnecessary stains on them.
2. Take a closer look at your eyes. In a healthy individual, they open normally, without traces of “sourness” or cloudiness.
3. Don't forget to inspect your nose (for discharge). Bubbles mixed with saliva, as well as strange and frequent sniffles are excluded.
4. Turtle activity. Cheerful movements indicate excellent health.
5. It is advisable to arrange another “exam”. Check if the selected specimen dives in the water. If not, it may be a consequence of pneumonia.

Unscrupulous sellers often assure newbies that “rednecks” are a decorative dwarf species. In fact, this is not so: they are not that small, and they are also quite aggressive relative to other turtles.

Once you have made your choice, be sure to ask for a receipt. It may come in handy if the animal turns out to be sick and a return follows. And when crossing the border, it obviously won’t be superfluous.

If it is possible to buy a turtle from a nursery, then this will be at least some guarantee that it was kept in normal conditions and healthy.

Did you know? In Australia, this species is recognized as...pest! Large “herds” of these turtles deprive many species of local animals of their food supply.

How to determine age and gender

The main parameter by which age is calculated is the length of the shell. It is measured “from edge to edge”, with a ruler or tape measure. The circumference is not taken into account.
There is one nuance here. The fact is that the figures obtained can only indicate the approximate age of the animal. With proper care, growth is very intensive, and a seemingly large pet may actually turn out to be the same age as a smaller reptile living in slightly worse conditions.

If you keep this fact in mind, then the indicators will be as follows:

• 6 cm is the norm for a one-year-old individual;
• at 2 years, females “grow” up to 9 cm, while males begin to lag behind, reaching 7.5–8 cm;
• “three-year-olds” grow, respectively, to 14 and 10 cm;
• 4 years: 16 and 12 cm;
• the five-year-old “celebrator” is indicated by shells of 18 and 14 cm;
• a six-year-old female barely fits within 20 cm, while males remain at 17 cm.

No less important are the questions of how to determine the sex of the red-eared slider you like and what to look for in this case. We have already mentioned the more impressive “dimensions” of females. They can also be recognized by their short tail. A closer examination will indicate the characteristic location of the cloaca - in males it is much closer to the edge of the tail. Among the indirect sexual characteristics are the length and shape of the claws (“men” have large and curved ones), as well as the bend of the plastron - in females this edge is straight, while in the opposite sex there is a small internal “hollow”.

Important! Having bought such a handsome man in warm weather, deliver it home in a box with holes for ventilation. In cold weather, you will have to put a heating pad there or even hold the animal close to you. But wrapping it in rags is useless.

Lifespan in captivity

With attentive owners, such “yellow bellies” can survive 35–40 years. Rarely, but still there are 45-year-old “centenarians”. If there have been short-term disturbances in light or thermal regime, then this period is reduced to 30.
A good food supply and care (and, if necessary, treatment) - all this affects how long the popular red-eared turtles live in normal home conditions. In nature, they last much less, on average 17–20 years.

Choosing and arranging housing

First you will have to acquire a voluminous one. For an adult, you will need 120–150 liters, and if there are two pets, then 200. For kids, 50 liters will be enough for the first time. The container is selected not too wide and high, but at the same time large in length.

To turn an aquarium into a full-fledged turtle “housing” you will need:

1. Water heater (they try to use 100-watt ones).
2. 40 or 60 W incandescent light bulbs placed at a height of more than 25 cm. With a lower “landing” the light will hit your eyes.
3. Special ultraviolet lamp for reptiles (UVB 5–7%). For little ones they need 10%.
4. External (for adults) or internal filter suitable for young animals.
5. Thermometer.

It is necessary to have an equipped bank. In terms of area, it will occupy a little more than a quarter of the entire area. Of course, warming up is needed - that’s where the light bulbs are directed. The temperature difference between such an island and the water is usually 7–10 °C in favor of land.

Did you know? Leatherback turtles are considered true giants. At 2 m in length, they can weigh more than half a ton! This miracle lives in the east of Australia or on the northern coast of Brazil and Venezuela.

The following requirements are put forward to him:

1. Convenient descent and ascent. One of the sides always smoothly goes into the water.
2. Safety. The turtle should not get stuck between the land and the wall of the aquarium. Stability is no less important - a fairly strong reptile can turn over an unsecured “island”.
3. The presence of a slightly rough surface on which it is convenient to move. On flat surfaces the paws will slip.
4. The material from which the “rest area” is installed must be safe, not overheat and not pollute the water and air with toxins.

Singles or need neighbors

These turtles are not very friendly in nature. Fights for them (especially in mature age) - The usual thing. Dividing up territory or trying to resolve the “sexual issue” often ends in wounds of varying degrees or severed tails. The risk of such serious injuries forces owners to distribute representatives of this species in different aquariums.

When this is not possible, and a couple of individuals end up in the same “vessel,” you have to resort to a trick. Barriers or plastic walls are placed through which aggressive inhabitants simply will not see each other.

Important! Remind children to wash their hands after playing with the family pet. Still, “shellfish” live in a different environment, and various bacteria can accumulate on their skin.

If they do spot a competitor, but are physically unable to reach him, this can result in stress. You can smooth out its consequences with abundant feeding.

What do they eat

It will be useful for beginners to know what to feed the predatory red-eared turtle living at home. Yes, they are omnivorous predators, and at a young age the basis of their diet is food of animal origin. Gradual transition to plant foods occurs as we age, and its share increases in the future.

The diet, as well as the amount of food, depends on age:

1. Up to 1 year of age, a single daily feeding is required. Both soft animal food and special food along with plant foods are used. Take 2-3 small pieces (1 cubic cm).
2. An adult “tenant” can be fed after 1–2 days. During this period, 50% plant feed is considered the norm. Although this proportion may vary slightly, turtles also have individual tastes. The dosage is reduced to the same 2-3 pieces, but already up to 3 cubic meters. cm.

Feed is given raw and not too warm (room temperatures are enough).

The “menu” can include the following products:

• any lean river fish;
• carrots and lettuce leaves;
• various insects - usually woodlice, small locusts or legless crickets, bloodworms, woodlice, earthworms and daphnia crustaceans;
• liver - beef heart or liver is considered a delicacy (as are chicken hearts);
• small mice and frogs, tadpoles or;
• dandelion, clover and mallow, suitable aquatic fauna include pistia and duckweed.

Here is a list of prohibited foods:

• bread;
• fruits;
• cheeses;
• meat in the form of minced meat and sausages; chicken and pork (along with lamb and beef) are also “taboo”;
• fatty fish.

Did you know? A turtle named Big Head predicted the outcome of one of the World Cup matches in 2014. The animal confidently chose the feeder under the Brazilian flag, and the national team of this country confidently beat the Croats a little later.

Dry food, which is so actively offered in pet stores, requires careful use; its share in the diet is reduced to a minimum (and only if the diet is somewhat disrupted). But the ground one bone flour It will come in handy - the kids are given a pinch every day to hold the bone skeleton and shell together. Their older “colleagues” are given a teaspoon, but once a week.

Care and hygiene

Of exceptional importance in the content is water. Animals sleep in it, eat and “relieve their needs” there, so a filter alone is not enough - the liquid is changed. Complete replacement(with 3- and 4-fold “rinsing” of the walls) is carried out once a month, and less thorough - with an interval of 2 weeks.

It happens that the filter is broken. Then cleaning is done twice as often. In any case, it will be used for wiping baking soda. More aggressive means are not suitable. Naturally, during this treatment the turtle is temporarily transferred to a container filled with water. All snags, bushes and stones are removed. Dirt from them is washed off or wiped with a rag.

A container with clean water is filled so that the pet can calmly roll over, suddenly finding itself on its back.

The optimal water temperature is +23…+28 °C. If you turn it up more, your pet will begin to overheat. The lower limit is +20 °C, but it is better not to let it get to that level. To stably maintain the required “degrees”, turn on the heater.

Important! It is advisable to leave a fresh portion of tap water for at least a day. During this time, the most harmful compounds will have time to “evaporate”.

Now about light mode. Both lamps are turned on all day, for 10–12 hours. At the same time, on the shore equipped for recreation it should be +32…+33 °C. At night the lamps are turned off.
Take into account the fact that glass and plastic absorb some of the heat, and you need to set the light so that the reptile receives more rays.

You can often hear about sunbathing. The procedure is good and useful, but with its own subtleties. Thus, the first stay in the fresh air in warm (at least +20 °C) weather should be limited to 5 minutes. This time can be gradually increased. Only in this case should the turtle be able to go into the shade - keeping it in the sun for a long time will only overheat it.

Hibernation period

IN natural conditions“Red-eared birds” actually go to sleep when it gets cold. But for domestic specimens this condition may not be required. Many owners, due to inexperience, miss this nuance, which leads to sad results. Let's figure out why.

When hibernating, “wild” individuals burst into a layer of silt or leaves at the bottom of a shallow but large reservoir. This achieves a balance between temperature and air access. Oxygen enters through membranes located in the mouth, cloaca or pharynx.

Did you know? Representatives of the species box turtles They love mushrooms, and not only edible ones. Perhaps that is why there are so many of them - Mexicans are afraid to eat the meat of these small and rather nimble “countrymen”.

It is extremely difficult to achieve such balance in an aquarium, and there is no need for it. Pets, receiving plentiful food and constant access to heat, simply do not require long sleep. In addition, hibernation significantly weakens their body.

For young individuals, hibernation is even harmful - growth stops, and it will no longer be possible to “catch up” with its pace. The conclusion is simple: you cannot forcibly “euthanize” a turtle; without proper experience, this will cause more harm than good.

Diseases: prevention and treatment

Almost all diseases are the result of errors in care or nutrition. To avoid such problems, do not forget about preventive measures . These include:

• balanced diet appropriate for age;
• keeping in clean and warm water;
• daylight hours lasting a maximum of 12 hours;
• If possible, separate keeping of several individuals to prevent injury;
• regular operation of the filter.

The procedures are simple, but there are different situations, which can result in all sorts of illnesses. Let's look at what diseases there are in red-eared turtles, how to recognize them by symptoms and what to consider for treatment. For clarity, these data are supplemented with photos.

Important! Upon contact with a person, a sick animal can transmit dangerous salmonellosis. The risk of such infection is small, but it should not be discounted. In addition, a seemingly harmless turtle can also spread ascariasis.

Often, as a result of a fight or contact with a sharp corner, snags appear wounds. They are immediately treated, followed by a change of water. If you are late, there is a risk of infection or sepsis.
Sepsis- This is blood poisoning. A sharp decline in activity should be alarming. Inspect immediately, paying particular attention to the plastron and paws (these areas may become red). Treated with strong antibiotics.

Refusal to eat and constantly closed eyes indicate the appearance of ulcerative formations in the mouth. Gram-negative bacteria “worked” here. Primary treatment comes down to cleaning the problem area with gauze soaked in an antimicrobial composition. Diseased tissue is removed. The veterinarian prescribes a course of antibiotics. Difficulties may also arise with the shell. Various kinds bacterial infections , introduced after an injury or as a result of a burn, reveal themselves by softening the “armor” with hemorrhages against the background of a noticeable stench. The scheme is the same - treatment, removal of dead tissue and subsequent isolation. For a large area of ​​damage, different drugs are used.

Lack of calcium leads to deformation of the shell and weakening of the paws. On early stages Injections of compounds saturated with this element, a change in diet and thermal regime help. In advanced cases, the outcome can be tragic.
If the red-eared turtle has become lethargic, does not eat for a long time and sleeps most of the day, it may come down to treatment pneumonia. Among its other signs are copious discharge from the nose and mouth, characteristic “chest” wheezing, and an unnaturally raised head. Here everything is decided by the veterinarian who prescribes intramuscular or intravenous injections.

Did you know? Aborigines from tropical islands attributed to shells magical properties. Moreover, they tried to read the prophecies that were allegedly written on the “armor”.

Dirty water can lead to abscess ear. It can be recognized by noticeable swelling on the head. This is one of the most difficult diseases - a competent operation with a long recovery is required.

Reproduction at home

Females are considered sexually mature at the age of 2–5 years, whose shell has grown to 12 cm. For males, these figures are 3–4 years and 10 cm, respectively.

As expected, the games begin with courtship - the male swims for a long time near his partner, turning his muzzle towards her. At the same time, he quickly moves his paws. The time of year doesn't matter.

Take a closer look at the female: if she has become overly active and is trying to leave the aquarium, you need to probe her immediately. Having felt the eggs between the hind legs and the shell, prepare a place for laying, not forgetting to isolate the “father”. The need for ultraviolet radiation and calcium increases.

The nest is usually located on land, having prepared a small hole. Seeing that the turtle began to spend a lot of time there, you can calm down - so far everything is normal. There can be up to 20 eggs in a clutch.
“Extraordinary situations” also arise. For example, having laid 1-2 eggs, the female may delay the clutch, at the same time becoming weaker and losing her appetite. Then you will have to contact a veterinarian, otherwise they will simply harden. Another nuisance is discharge into the water. The masonry breaks much less often, which is immediately noticeable by the smell.

Important! It is better to rinse the new “tenant” in a warm bath immediately after purchase. This will prevent the occurrence of certain diseases.

During the season there may be 3-4 clutches. If the process is successful, crumbs of 2.5 cm are born. A yolk mark is visible on their shell. It is not removed - at first the baby feeds on it. The offspring are separated from the adults by pre-heating the water and land by a couple of “above-plan” degrees. The diet focuses on food rich in calcium (it is advisable to take products for turtles).

Now you know how to deal with a brightly colored reptile. We hope that she will delight the whole family for many years without causing unnecessary trouble. More colors every day!

Pet lovers often keep a red-eared turtle as a pet. Unfortunately, few people know what kind of care this reptile requires, and therefore many representatives of the species die due to improper living conditions. If this wonderful animal is provided with everything necessary for comfortable life, then it will delight its owners for many years.

The lifespan of a pet depends on environmental conditions

general description

This reptile has a bright appearance. There are red stripes on either side of her head that start near her eyes and continue down her neck. The top of the olive-green shell, round and smooth, is decorated with streaks of black and yellow. The bottom of the shell is also smooth, it is yellow in color with dark spots.

Some turtle owners believe that the size of the animal can determine its age. Experts disagree with this. When kept in favorable home conditions, reptiles grow faster than in the wild.

Moreover, with proper care a pet will live much longer than its wild counterparts. There are cases when the age of American red-eared turtles living in captivity reached forty years. But the life expectancy of wild individuals usually does not exceed twenty.

At the turtle bright color

In a reptile aggressive character. A fight between animals can result in serious injuries and even death, and therefore experts advise not to keep individuals of different ages in the same aquarium. In general, turtles feel great alone.

Habitats

Sometimes the aquatic red-eared turtle is called a sea turtle, but this is incorrect, since the animal lives in fresh water. In the wild, the reptile is found in the southern United States of America. The most common sightings of the red-eared or yellow-bellied turtle are in the Mississippi River.

The animal's natural habitat is bodies of water with warm water and weak currents: lakes, ponds and swamps. Like other reptiles, American turtle often crawls onto the shore or islands of land to sunbathe.

Animal handling

In contact with an adult pet you need to be extremely careful, especially if you plan to pick it up. The reptile may be wet and therefore slippery. In addition, she may try to free herself, hiss, and even have bowel movements. Do not forget that the turtle has sharp claws and strong paws, and its bite is quite painful. If you still need to pick up the animal, then this should be done with only two hands in order to minimize the likelihood of injury to both the person and the pet.

Be careful with adults

You need to be even more careful with the little red-eared turtle. It is advisable not to touch it with your hands at all and not to knock on the glass of the aquarium. This beautiful and elegant creature is easily frightened and can become ill from stress.

After contact with a reptile, your hands must be washed with soap. It should be noted that aquatic reptiles can be carriers of salmonellosis.

Content Features

The red-eared turtle is quite demanding in terms of living conditions. When purchasing such a pet, you need to understand that the size of the aquarium does not have any effect on the size of the reptile. Even in a small container the animal will grow, but will become weak and sick.

To provide the reptile comfortable conditions content, you need to purchase the following:

• aquarium for turtles with a volume of 150 l;
• 100 Watt water heater;
• external filter;
• ultraviolet lamp for aquatic turtles with UVB 10%;
• heating lamp;
• lighting lamp;
• thermometer;
• sushi element.

In addition to all of the above, you should choose a strong table or cabinet, since the weight of all the equipment is quite high.

The aquarium consists of a number of elements

Proper care

At home, the red-eared turtle needs to equip an aquaterrarium - an aquarium with a land island. Such an island will allow your pet to crawl out of the water and bask under the lamp. You can purchase it at a specialty store or make it yourself.

When choosing land, you need to take into account the surface size of the aquarium. The shore should occupy at least a quarter of it. It is also necessary that The island met certain requirements:

1. Heating. The air temperature on land should be 10 °C higher than the water temperature.
2. Half-flooded. At least one side of the island should go into the water so that the reptile can easily get onto land.
3. Safety. There should be such a distance between the walls of the aquaterrarium and the shore so that the animal does not get stuck. The materials from which the island is made should not emit toxic substances when heated and in contact with water.
4. Sustainability. The turtle has strong paws, and therefore, when climbing onto the island, it can turn it over.
5. Texture. To prevent an animal from slipping on land, the surface of the shore must be textured.

Soil, like decor, is optional in an aquaterrarium. If you still want to add decorativeness, then it is better to use large stones. Reptiles can swallow small decorative elements. But you need to take into account that the soil makes cleaning the aquarium difficult.

Heating and ultraviolet

Since the turtle is a cold-blooded creature, it needs to bask in the sun. Such a warm shore should be provided to the animal in a home aquaterrarium. To achieve a suitable temperature of 30-35°C, the lamp should be placed directly above the pet. At the same time, the owner should regularly check the temperature so that the reptile does not get burned.

Don't forget about ultraviolet light

In the wild, natural light and warmth allow the turtle's body to produce substances necessary for normal functioning. But if it lives in captivity, then the owner will have to provide the reptile with a sufficient amount of ultraviolet light, which helps the proper absorption of calcium and the production of B vitamins. The absence of such a lamp in the aquaterrarium leads to the fact that the reptile’s shell develops poorly. In addition, the animal may become seriously ill.

Both lamps should work every day from 10 to 12 hours, and the ultraviolet lamp should be placed directly above the pet’s bed so that glass and plastic do not interfere with the passage of the rays.

Water environment

The red-eared turtle is an aquatic reptile and most of her life is spent in water. In order for an animal to feel good in an aquaterrarium, it must have a sufficient amount of clean water.

The minimum water level is considered to be one at which the pet can turn over freely, that is, it must be no less than the width of the animal’s shell. But it will be good if it is possible to maintain it at a higher level - the reptile will be able to swim, and the water will remain clean longer. It should be remembered that at any water level the reptile must be able to get to land for heating.

Before adding liquid to the aquarium, it must be left for at least a day. This will allow the water to warm up and remove chlorine. In the aquaterrarium itself, the temperature of the aquatic environment should remain between 22 and 28 °C, it should be checked using a thermometer. For supporting optimal temperature you need to use a heater.

Another important parameter is water purity. Keeping the water environment clean is very important, although it is not easy to do. The turtle eats and defecates in water, so various harmful substances quickly accumulate in it. To avoid this, change the water weekly. In addition, it is necessary to use special filters. Dirty water will not only spoil the decorative appearance of the aquaterrarium, but can also cause illness and even death of the animal.

TO aquatic environment a number of requirements

Turtle diet

This reptile is omnivorous. A variety of foods helps keep your pet healthy. For feeding you can use:

• specialized food for aquatic turtles;
• food for aquarium fish;
• insects;
• vegetables;
• fish;
• aquarium plants;
• invertebrates.

It is important to make a balanced diet by including foods high in calcium. But you need to take into account that the reptile tends to overeat.

Despite the pet’s omnivorous nature, experts advise giving preference to specialized food for American turtles. There are quite a lot of them, which allows you to choose the best option for a particular animal. The undoubted advantage of such feeds is that they contain all nutrients, necessary reptiles. In addition, the high protein content allows the turtle to be satisfied in smaller portions.

This animal does not produce saliva, so it needs water to swallow food. She can take food on land, but she will still eat it in the water. To keep the water in the aquaterrarium clean longer, the reptile can be fed in a separate container.

The frequency of feedings varies depending on the age of the animal and the type of food. The young turtle is fed every day with ready-made food. In addition, she should be offered plant food daily, even if she does not want to eat it. Pet over a year old feed less frequently, about every other day or two. If the food is plant-based, then you can use it more often.

Water is an integral part of the diet

The amount of food given to the reptile also differs. Animals that have recently hatched need food with 50% protein. Most foods contain approximately 40% of this substance, and therefore can be given complementary foods in the form of small aquarium fish, insects and earthworms. When feeding adults, artificial feed should be much less - from 10 to 25%. The rest of the food in this case comes from plants.

To provide your animal with good food and not overfeed, you should always read the instructions on the packaging. We should not forget that feeds can differ significantly from each other.

Hibernation period

On winter months The American yellow-bellied turtle can hibernate, although it does not need to. Moreover, everything possible must be done to prevent this from happening. It is strictly forbidden to stimulate your pet to hibernate.

This may be unsafe for several reasons:

• the owner may not have enough knowledge to properly care for the animal during this period;
• it is difficult to create conditions suitable for the reptile to hibernate normally;
• young and sick animals may be too weak to survive such a difficult period.

Animals that hibernate in conditions wildlife, burrow into a layer of leaves and silt at the bottom of a shallow reservoir. During hibernation, they do not surface, absorbing all the necessary oxygen through membranes in the mouth, pharynx and cloaca.

It is very important that the depth of the reservoir is optimal. The water in it should not be too cold and at the same time have sufficient oxygen content. It is almost impossible to recreate such conditions in a home aquaterrarium.

Turtles tend to hibernate

To prevent your pet from hibernating, you need to maintain the water temperature around 24-26°C. More cold water will remind the animal of winter.

In this video you will learn more about the turtle: